Designing for beginners: building a straight skirt. Modeling a straight skirt Pattern of a skirt with embossed lines

The purpose of the lesson: to acquaint students with the methods of modeling straight skirts; teach how to model a skirt of the chosen style.

Tools and fixtures: scissors, ruler, pencil, glue, landscape sheets, straight skirt templates in m 1:4.

Visual aids: posters with models of various skirts, samples of various skirts.

During the classes

I. Organizational moment.

1. Checking student attendance.
2. Check readiness for the lesson.
3. Workplace organization.
4. Distribution of task cards.
5. Conducting introductory training.

II. Repetition of the material covered.

1. Mark the correct answers with a “+” sign.

On which side of the human figure are measurements taken?
on the left
on the right

What are measurements taken with?
ruler
compass
measuring tape

How should you stand when taking measurements?
leaning forward slightly
straight (at attention)
bending one leg at the knee
drawing in the stomach

Why is a belt tied around the waist when taking measurements?
to clarify the position of the hip line
to divide the figure into "top" and "bottom"
to clarify the position of the waist line

Write down the name of the measurements according to the legend.
1) St_________________________________________________
2) Dst________________________________________________
3) Sat_________________________________________________
4) Di_________________________________________________

Which of these measurements are needed to determine the length of the product?
Dst
St
Di
Sat

Which of these measurements are needed to determine the width of the product
Dst
St
Di
Sat

III. Main part.

In order to sew a skirt of various styles, it is necessary to make changes to the finished pattern, i.e. run the simulation. At the same time, the drawing of the base of the skirt can be cut anywhere, but be sure to keep the width of the product along the waistline and length.

Modeling is the creative process of creating new models.

Modeling is divided into artistic and technical. Artistic modeling is done by fashion designers, creating sketches of models. Technical modeling is done by design artists, creating models according to a sketch based on a basic design.

The main modeling techniques are:

1. Translation of darts
2. Changing the position of the main constructive lines.
3. Breeding parts of a garment to change the degree of fit.
4. Formation of a new cut by drawing up parts of the structural foundations.

Based on the drawing of a straight skirt, you can model a huge number of styles of skirts: narrow and wide, long and short, with coquettes at the back and front, with cuts and folds of various shapes. The construction of a drawing of a straight skirt was carried out in such a way that drawings of two parts were obtained at once: the front and rear panels. For modeling, these parts need to be divided (cut), since each part is modeled separately.

Skirt flared at the bottom.

On the drawing of the front and rear panels, from the side of the side cut line, set aside the required expansion along the bottom line (5-7 cm). Then connect the resulting points H 1 and H 2 with the lines of the side tuck.

The narrowing of the skirt along the bottom line.

In the drawing of the front and rear panels from the side cut, reduce the width of the skirt along the bottom line by the desired value (H 3 and H 4). Then connect points H 3 and H 4 with points B 2 and B 2 on the line of the hips. Cut off the excess parts of the pattern.

Changing the length of the skirt.

Most often, the length of the skirt from maxi to mini is determined by fashion. For freedom of movement, women's long skirts are made with cuts, slots, fasteners.

Extensions of a straight skirt by closing the darts.

Very comfortable to wear slightly widened straight skirt. Such an expansion is easy to perform by closing the darts based on a straight skirt.

Draw vertical lines along the center lines of the front and back panels of the skirt until they intersect with the bottom line and cut the patterns along these lines.

Push the patterns in the lower part until the tuck is completely closed.

Expansion of a straight skirt by partially closing the tuck and additional cut.

With a significant expansion of the skirt, additional vertical cuts can be made on the panels, which will make the expansion more uniform.

Draw vertical straight lines along the axial lines of the tucks of the front and back panels, as well as through the middle of the segments B 6 B 2 and B 2 B 7 until they intersect with the bottom line.

Cut the patterns along the marked lines and expand the resulting parts to the desired width.

Make the bottom line a smooth curve.

Modeling a skirt with a yoke.

Coquettes in skirts are very widely used. They provide a more precise fit of the skirt on the figure, especially when making a skirt made of dense fabric. Constructive yoke lines make the skirt more elegant.

Visually lengthen the figure. The coquette can be both on the front and on the back panel, or on both panels at once.

When modeling, the yoke line can be a straight, curved or broken line, which, as a rule, passes through the end of the tuck. If the yoke line is located above the end of the tuck, then its upper part is closed, and the part of the tuck remaining on the panel is included in reliefs, folds and other constructive lines. If the yoke line is located below the end of the tuck, then it is either kept or extended to the yoke line and then closed.

Through the end of the tuck of the front (or back) panel, draw a straight line of the coquette A B.

Cut the pattern along this line and fold the yoke from the cut off upper parts, while closing the tuck. Draw the upper and lower sections of the coquette with a smooth line.

Now let's look at how these and some other methods of modeling skirts are applied to specific styles.

Model 1. Skirt, extended at the bottom, with a yoke in front.

Model 2. Skirt with a yoke and an inverted pleat at the front.

1. Draw a straight yoke line through the end of the tuck.
2. Cut off the yoke, close the tuck. Draw the upper and lower sections of the coquette with smooth lines.
3. Draw straight lines parallel to the line of the middle of the front panel, indicating the depth of the opposite fold. Complete the pattern at the top of the fold, as shown in the figure.

Counter folds are those in which on the front side the folds of the fabric are directed towards each other, and on the wrong side - in different directions.

The counter fold is marked on the wrong side of the fabric with three lines:

a) the middle line - the inflection line,
b) lateral line;
c) a line that defines the end of the stitching.

The crease allowance is equal to the depth of one crease multiplied by 4.

Model 3. Skirt with pockets and front pleats.

1. Construct on the drawing of the front panel the pocket entry line (K 1 K 2), the pocket depth line (K 3 K 4) and the line of the beginning of the folds (ab).
2. Cut the drawing along the line of the entrance to the pocket (K 3 K 4), the line of the beginning of the folds (ab) and along the vertical line of the tuck axis.
3. Construct a drawing of a pocket burlap (K 1 K 2 K 3 K 4). Complete the side part of the front panel of the skirt with a section (K 1 K 2 K 3 K 4).
4. Build a part of the pattern with folds, having previously made a paper layout.

IV. The final part of the lesson.

1. Control over the quality of assimilation of new material.
2. Assessment of the test task.

V. Homework.

1. Draw sketches of the styles of the skirt that you would like to sew.
2. Bring to the next lesson: paper, ruler, pencils, textbook, workbook.

http://shjem-krasivo.ru/

Hello, friends!

Today's publication is the answer to a question that I recently received from a reader of the blog "You can't forbid beautiful sewing!".

You have no idea how nice it is to know that my leadership brings benefits and tangible results, in the form of new products!

I am always happy when I receive such letters in which you share your victories, thank you!

I could not leave Nellie's request without attention.

The request is, and I quote:

"Hello, Elena!

I don't know if I can address you with a personal request. The fact is that the cold is coming and I would like to sew a warm skirt. But I have certain wishes. I want a pencil skirt with reliefs in front (a simpler relief is possible - two seams vertically in the middle of each leg), without a belt, just with a facing and a zipper at the back, with a lining and a slot. The length is slightly above the knee.

I bought suit fabric on fleece, laid it out and was confused.

Elena, if you can help, I will be very grateful. My size is 48 (if anything). I took a course from you on building the base of a pencil skirt, but I couldn’t model it myself. I have never sewed skirts with lining and vents. You have a very accessible form of explanation, I really liked it.

Thank you in advance."

In short, I already answered Nelly's question by mail so as not to delay the creative process, but I promised to tell you more about this model.

ANDso, today we will consider the modeling of a skirt with reliefs and the technology of sewing this skirt.

To model a skirt with reliefs, you need to either build a straight skirt pattern or use a ready-made pattern for your figure.

Of course, it is better to build your base, taking into account the characteristics of your figure, especially if it differs from generally accepted standards, but if you have a proven ready-made pattern, it will also work.

Modeling of a skirt with reliefs.

Modeling a similar skirt is easy.

To do this, on the basis of a straight skirt, you need to draw a line parallel to the middle of the front panel from the end of the tuck (if you need reliefs on the back panel, draw a line parallel to the middle of the back panel, respectively).

Sign the details, mark the shared thread and cut the patterns along the marked lines.

The technology of sewing a skirt with reliefs.

Skirt lining. Stages of cutting and processing.

If the skirt is lined:

The lining should be cut according to the cut details of the skirt, keeping all the decorative and constructive lines of the cut.

Before basting on the sides, for a better fit of the skirt due to the side allowances, be sure to cut off 0.2 cm on both sides, leaving the width of the allowances for the seams, but reducing the lining along the hips, and therefore in general for the manufactured product.

If the style of the skirt is without structural and decorative elements, sewing on the lining is easy:

Stitch the darts and side cuts, leaving 16-18 cm unstitched for the fastener in the left side seam (or optionally), hem the bottom of the skirt flush with the cut of the allowance for hemming the bottom of the product.

Combine the processed lining with the waistline, baste.

IMPORTANT: if the upper cut of the skirt is processed with a facing, then the lining is cut out minus the details of the facing. The podkald is stitched to the lower cuts of the facing.

In the clasp, stitch the lining for allowances. To make the lining less mobile, fasten on one side at the level of the hips along the allowances for the seams with the product.

In pleated skirts, position the seam of the lining over the pleat of the top and process the slit for a free step.

The darts and seams in the lining should be located strictly above the darts and seams of the top of the skirt.

Processing the lining in a skirt with a vent.

If the skirt has a vent, the lining of the lower part of the vent must be folded inward and sewn with blind stitches for the allowance for processing the top.

On the upper part of the lining, make a notch to the width of the allowance for the slots, from the corner - by 0.7 cm, bend the allowance inward and hem manually according to the allowance for processing the slots.

Along the upper edge of the lining with the top of the skirt, we will process the belt or facing.

I don’t have a video on the topic of processing with a slot yet (I need to fix the situation), but I found an interesting and understandable video for you.

The teacher very competently and clearly explains to beginners the stages of processing slots.

The first part of the spline processing

The second part of the processing splines

The third part of the spline processing

Skirt ironing.

Skirts need to be ironed only on an ironing board, electric, with an iron with a thermostat through an iron.

First you need to carefully iron, iron or iron all seams, darts, folds, pockets, and then the entire skirt completely through the ironing from the wrong side.

We fix the ironed product on a hanger, leave it to dry completely and fix the shape given to the product (skirts made of woolen fabrics - 20-25 minutes, skirts made of silk and cotton fabrics - 10-15 minutes).

Iron the side seams of the skirts on a special oval-shaped pillow (can be replaced with a towel folded several times) to avoid deformation of the side lines.

When ironing the bottom hemming, it is better to place a double-folded fabric to the edge of it and slide the iron over the hemming and the underlying fabric through the moistened iron so that the edge of the seam is not printed on the front side.

Fix the ironed product on a hanger, leave until completely dry and fix the shape given to the product (skirts made of woolen fabrics - 20-25 minutes, skirts made of silk and cotton fabrics - 10-15 minutes).

We iron all finished products only in the shared direction of the thread, without stretching it.

So, we have considered the modeling and technology of sewing a skirt with reliefs, I hope now it will not be difficult for you to sew such a skirt.

Finished pattern." class="img_anons" title="Pencil skirt pattern with reliefs and small slits in the seams.

Finished pattern.">!} Pattern elegant slim pencil skirt with small slits in the seams on the sides, back and middle of the front. Skirt length just below the knees looks the most successful.

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Finished pattern.">!}

There are two figured reliefs on the front and back panels of the skirt. Such a division of the skirt panels allows, if desired, to combine fabrics of different colors and (or) textures. The zipper can be positioned as standard: at the top of the left side seam, or at the back in the middle seam. It looks interesting skirt with a through fastener on a metal zipper in the side seam (even in both) or in the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt. Experiment!

Skirt pattern suitable for women with waist 80cm and hips 104cm. Skirt length 63 cm.

The skirt pattern is given without seam allowances.

Print the pattern sheets on the printer and connect them in accordance with the diagram. The scheme is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected. It is printed on the first page.

Be sure to check the scale. On a printed sheet with a depicted square of 10x10 cm, the sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters. To do this, in the printer settings, set the print scale of the document to 100% (no scaling).

Before cutting, check again for compliance with your measurements with the parameters of the pattern.

Ready-made patterns are given for a conditionally typical figure. If your figure differs from the conventionally typical one, you should adjust the pattern taking into account the characteristics of your physique and only after that proceed with cutting.

Don't forget to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where clarifications are possible when trying on.

Having swept away the details, try on the product, make any necessary corrections and start sewing.

The skirt can be either lined or unlined. The lining is cut according to the main details.

For those who want to build a pattern for a specific figure according to the measurements taken, we have a detailed one. Having such a basic pattern, you can create a variety of styles of skirts.

Pattern of a fashionable pencil skirt with a one-piece belt and original figured reliefs. At the bottom of the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt there is a slit that provides freedom when walking. The zipper can be located both in the left and in the middle seams.

You can use a variety of fabrics to make skirts. A classic suiting fabric, one-colored and patterned, or a combination of both, is suitable. You can also use raincoat fabric, jeans, corduroy, taffeta and other fabrics. Depending on the fabric and finishes, such as topstitching or set-in piping along the raised seams, this skirt model can be made in both a sporty and classic style. In any case, it is a modern, feminine, original skirt model.

Pattern preparation: print on a regular printer, glue the sheets according to the pattern (it is printed on the first sheet), cut out the size that suits you. That's all, you can start cutting.

Pattern is given full size without seam allowances on a conventional figure. If your parameters do not fit into generally accepted standards, adjust the pattern in accordance with the features of your figure. And also when cutting, make allowances for seams a little more than usual, especially in those places where clarifications are possible when trying on.

The fabric will need approximately 0.80 m with a width of 1.50.

The upper section of the skirt is processed with a facing.

Open skirts

• The middle part of the front panel of the skirt 1 piece
• The upper side part of the front panel of the skirt 2 parts
• The lower side part of the front panel of the skirt 2 parts
• The middle part of the back panel of the skirt 2 parts
• The upper side part of the rear panel of the skirt 2 parts
• The lower side part of the rear panel of the skirt 2 parts
• Facing the front panel of the skirt 1 piece
• Facing the back panel of the skirt 1 piece

Skirt tailoring

After sewing, overcast all sections and iron or iron them in accordance with the style of the product. Overcast the middle sections of the back panel before sewing

• Stitch the side parts together first, and then connect them to the middle part of the skirt. If you settled on a sporty version and selected the fabric accordingly (jeans, corduroy, raincoat fabric, etc.), lay a finishing stitch (single or double) along each relief.
• At the bottom of the middle seam of the back panel, process the cut.
• Now that the front and back panels are finished, join the side seams, leaving an open section in the left side seam for the zipper.
• Stitch in the zipper.
• Process the upper section of the skirt, having previously duplicated the facing of the front and back panels of the skirt with an adhesive pad.
• It remains to hem the bottom and the skirt is ready.

The main idea: a straight skirt with several reliefs.
Sufficiently tight-fitting elegant skirt can decorate any figure. For successful modeling, it is enough for you to have a good base built with increments that are comfortable for you, 0-2 cm to the OT and OB girths.
The skirt can be made on a stitched belt or fitted on a facing at the request of the client. The waist line can also be any, in a natural place or understated.
Since the model is not symmetrical about the line of the middle of the front and rear parts, the modeling must be performed on the parts "in a spread".
For our modeling, we conditionally divided the width of the front panel into three parts. Thus, two reliefs and an undercut detail were identified. If your client's hip circumference is more than 100 cm, then you can increase the number of reliefs. Visually vertical reliefs will make the figure slimmer. This is facilitated and sweet on the undercut detail.
You can also vary the number of folds and their depth at your discretion.
In our model, reliefs are made both on the front and on the back of the skirt. You can simplify the model by leaving the back part as it is in the base.
Such models well hide the asymmetry of the hips.
The undercut detail can be made without folds. The asymmetry of the lower cut is also a matter of your personal taste. The model can be made with a horizontal bottom line.
One rear tuck can be left. Especially if you are working with a hard fabric and, according to your calculations, the RZ takes on values ​​​​of more than 5 cm.
But, if you have other conditions: softer fabric, less RZ, then you can move the relief closer to the top of the back tuck and transfer the entire tuck solution into a relief.
When choosing fabrics for your models, always remember the purpose of each particular skirt. Almost any model can be turned from a strict office skirt into an elegant or creative skirt, just by changing the fabric or even just changing the direction of the shared thread.
The traditional variant of the share thread is shown in your drawing. Place the middle piece at a 45-degree cut on a plaid fabric for an unexpectedly interesting option. The original skirt model will simply not be recognizable.
You do not even have to make such a sharp contrast of pattern and color. Now in stores there is a large selection of fabrics that differ slightly in shade. In the fabric, the difference in color is not as visible as in the product.
Feel like a real product designer, not an artisan who works only according to a strict description and recipe. And as a real designer, be prepared not only for success, but also for ... failure.

From the book by G. Zlachevskaya "The Best Models"