Drape jacket pattern. Pattern of a women's windbreaker. Embossed shelf seams

Today, women's clothing stores offer such a large assortment that it may seem that a sewn women's windbreaker with their own hands, the patterns of which will be discussed in this article, is a completely unjustified occupation. However, if you think about it, you can find a lot of advantages and benefits of self-tailoring.

First of all, it is economy. As a rule, sewn things are several times cheaper. Also, do not forget that by independently modeling the style, you can take the most liked details of various models and combine them together in your product. Well, the most important thing is the color and size, which, as practice shows, can be very difficult to choose when choosing a finished windbreaker. Either the thing is large, or it perfectly matches the color of the eyes, but it is small, or it sits perfectly, but the shade does not satisfy the needs. So it turns out that in a huge assortment of fashion stores you can lose several hours of time and still not find the right option.

Whether it's with self-tailoring! Moreover, the pattern of a windbreaker for a female model is built very simply, and even the most inexperienced craftswoman can sew it.

Taking measurements

Tailoring of any clothes begins with taking measurements. The pattern or male is built on the basis of the main measurements: waist, hips and chest, shoulder width, sleeve length and product length. This thing differs from other women's outerwear in that it does not make darts either on the chest or on the waist, which greatly facilitates the construction of the template and minimizes the number of measurements taken from the figure.

Building a shelf template

To build a template, you will need newspaper, glued sheets of paper or construction film. They will need to mark the boundaries of the drawing. It should be a rectangle with sides that will correspond to the half-girth of the chest + a few centimeters for a loose fit (the amount depends on the style), the other side should be equal to the length of the product from the shoulder to the bottom.

The pattern of the female model windbreaker in the drawing is built as follows:

1. At a distance of 25-30 cm (and for large sizes 35-40 cm) from the upper side of the rectangle, which is designated as the chest line, is laid.
2. Next, this straight line is divided into parts: the width of the back, the armhole zone (the value of the half-girth of the chest is divided by 4 and 2 cm is added), the zone of the front shelf.
3. After proceed to the neck in the upper corners of the rectangle. They retreat from the corner towards the rectangle by 6 cm and deepen the neck on the back by 5 cm, and in front by 5-6 cm.
4. Further, from the extreme points of the neck, shoulder seams are marked, lowering them by 1.5 cm from the upper side of the border of the drawing.
5. Then find the middle of the armhole on the chest line and lower straight lines from the edge of the shoulder sections. After they draw an armhole, rounding the corners.
6. If the length of the product is higher than the hips or the measurement of the hips is similar to the chest, then all constructions can be completed on this. If the hips are wider, you should take into account the difference and flare the side cut, descending from the point of the middle of the armhole perpendicular to the lower border of the drawing.

Thus, as a result of all the manipulations, you will get windbreakers, or rather, halves of the back and front patterns. Next, you should start developing the sleeve.

Sleeve construction

The finished pattern of a women's windbreaker should consist of a half back, a front shelf and a sleeve. Different cutters use different methods for constructing sleeves, but the principle is always the same: the collar should fit perfectly into the armhole on the front and back. To build this element, it is necessary to combine ready-made shelf templates along the shoulder seams and transfer the armhole line to a separate sheet. Next, the rounding at the shoulder must be closed in a circle. On its lower border, place a measure in the center “the width of the upper arm. On the top - step back up 1.5 cm and smoothly reduce the rounding from this point to nothing. Then it remains only to outline the okat line and make a control measurement of compliance with the length of the cut of the armhole.

Construction of the hood and collar

The pattern of a women's windbreaker with a hood differs only in that, in addition to the shelves and sleeves, a template for the hood should be developed. Making it is easy enough. Measure the circumference of the head and measure the length from the forehead to the back of the head through the crown and the height of the hood (shoulder to crown). The construction is made in a rectangle, where the sides are equal to the height of the hood and the half-girth of the head.

A measurement taken from the forehead to the back of the head should be laid through one of the upper corners of the rectangle, while the sharp edge should be rounded, and a straight line should be lowered by 1-2 cm to the forehead area. In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe occipital cut, the line should be shifted 3-4 cm inward rectangle. The line of the base of the hood, along which it will be connected to the windbreaker, should be made curved. At the back of the head - raised by 3 cm, and towards the face, on the contrary, lowered. This will ensure the correct fit of the hood and get rid of excess wrinkles at the back of the head.

The collar is much easier to make. It will require a strip of fabric equal to twice the height and width corresponding to the cut of the neck.

Style modeling

The basic pattern of the female model windbreaker is half the battle. Everything else is just details. At the modeling stage, the location of pockets, stripes of decorative elements and other shaped elements is worked out. By the way, pockets can be welt with zippers or patch pockets, as well as a combination of one with the other.

According to this description, you can sew completely different models. Need an oversized women's windbreaker? The pattern, the description of which is presented above, is perfect for absolutely any complexion. Flare the bottom a little, add drawstrings and cords on the sides to pick up the side seams, similar design of the sleeves and collar - and an excellent windbreaker for a curvaceous lady is ready.

Ribbed cuff options

Windbreakers are characterized by cuffs at the bottom of the product and on the sleeves. For their design, you can take special knitted ties or ribbed fabric, or, using the main fabric and a wide elastic band, make these elements yourself. A strip of fabric for the length of the stretched elastic band and its double width, an elastic band inserted inside, stitched every half a centimeter - and the cuffs are ready.

A little about the choice of fabrics

The most successful material for a windbreaker is raincoat fabric. This material will protect well from the wind and will be able to withstand light rain. If you take warm fleece for the product, then the pattern of the windbreaker of the female model will miraculously turn into a warm and cozy anorak.

It will also look good option with leatherette or lacquer fabric. However, the choice depends on your own preferences and taste.

Working with lining

If you sew a windbreaker without a lining, then this will be a great option for cool summer evenings, but if you need a warmer model, then it is better to arrange a lining, or you can even use a quilt with a small layer of padding polyester.

To cut, you will need the same pattern of a female model windbreaker. First, all the elements of the top of the product are assembled, then the lining is completely sewn together, and then they are connected.

The assembly sequence is as follows: first along the neck and front section; further along the bottom, and then in the sleeves.

So that all the joints are beautifully decorated, they are sewn through a hole in one of the sleeves. The sleeve is sewn up last.

Sewing is really easy, even things like a jacket. Of course, looking at the scale of the work, it seems impossible to deal with pockets, zippers and decorative stitching without professional skills. But if we consider the process in stages and disassemble each sewing unit separately, in practice it turns out that it is quite easy to make even a women's winter jacket on your own. The pattern is built in just 20 minutes.

Preparation

Absolutely all things are built on the base grid. This means that the pattern of the jacket, including women's, is based on a prepared drawing, which takes into account individual measurements. Therefore, they begin by measuring the figure. For a pattern of a women's jacket, the following measurements will be required:

• bust, waist, hips, forearms and wrists;
• back and shoulder width;
• height from shoulder to center of chest, from shoulder to waist;
• sleeve length, product length;
• the distance between the peaks of the chest or, as it is called, the solution of the darts.

To make a template, it is best to use construction film. This material is stronger than paper, it is easy to draw on it with a permanent marker, and you can store a women's jacket pattern for a very long time without fear that it will tear.

Base mesh

The drawing begins with the construction of a right angle:

• from the starting point to the right lay a line half the length of the girth of the chest;
• a straight line is drawn downwards in accordance with the length of the product, forming a right angle with the drawn horizontal;
• the top of the corner is a place for the neckline of the back of the women's jacket pattern;
• vertically from top to bottom mark the level of the chest and waist, which are found in accordance with the measurements of "chest height", "height from shoulder to waist";
• 20 cm below the waist mark the border of the hip line;
• from the points found, horizontal lines are drawn parallel to the upper horizontal line of the drawing;
• close the corner, forming a rectangle;
• from the left horizontal along the line of the chest, a point is placed at a distance of half the width of the back;
• on the opposite side mark a point, this is half the solution of the tucks;
• from the point "half the width of the back" recede a value equal to ¼ half of the chest girth + 3cm;
• perpendiculars are raised from the points found;
• straight lines divided the drawing into three zones: back, armhole, shelf;
• the armhole is divided in half on the line of the chest and the perpendicular is lowered, outlining the side cut.

The basic grid of the women's jacket pattern is ready, it remains to determine the main lines of the details, according to which it will be possible to model the shaped lines.

Pattern details

Pattern detailing is the finish line. Here you will need to carefully place all the dots and connect them with lines:

This construction option is suitable for both a warm product and a pattern for a women's leather jacket or windbreaker.

Sleeve measurements

It is always difficult for beginners to build a sleeve. There are many ways to build, but the easiest way to make a template is based on four measurements:

• armhole length according to the finished pattern;
• the length of the sleeve;
• forearm girth;
• wrist girth.

Building a Template

Even if this is a pattern of a women's jacket on a synthetic winterizer, a sleeve can always be built according to these standards. The only thing is that you will need to add an allowance for the thickness of the insulation and a free fit to the girths.

The construction is done like this:

• draw a straight line corresponding to the length of the sleeve;
• 1/3 of the length of the armhole recede from the extreme point from top to bottom, adding 2 cm;
• on both sides of this point at a right angle, they recede along half the circumference of the forearm;
• from the lower extreme point at a right angle to both sides recede along half the girth of the wrist + 2 cm;
• the resulting lines close into a trapezoid;
• return to the top of the drawing and draw straight lines to design the sleeves, connecting the extreme points of the forearm girth with the upper point of the main straight line;
• the drawing can be conditionally divided into two parts: a trapezoid and a triangle;
• the sides of the triangle are divided into 4 equal parts each and dotted;
• the first point to the left of the base is lowered by 2 cm, the third is raised by 1.5 cm;
• the first point to the right of the base is lowered by 1 cm, the third is raised by 1.5 cm;
• the points are connected by a smooth line from the corners at the base through the top of the triangle.

Building the hood

In order to build a pattern for a women's jacket with a hood, you need to measure additional parameters such as:

• head girth;
• head height;
• back neck length;
• front neck length.

The builds are done like this:

• draw a horizontal line equal to 1/3 of the circumference of the head + 4-9 cm;
• from the extreme points they fall at a right angle to a head height of + 3-5 cm;
• lines are closed in a rectangle;
• on the lower edge they retreat half the neck of the back, mark the border, 3 cm of the tuck retreat, mark its border and mark half of the neck of the front;
• from the lower left corner of the rectangle rise by 4 cm;
• from the obtained point, draw a line to the base to the mark of the half of the front neck;
• in the center of the tuck zone, draw a perpendicular to a height of 3 cm and mark the boundaries of the tuck;
• a straight line is lowered from the upper right corner to the point “half of the front neckline”;
• the upper corner of the left corner is beveled and the template is closed with a straight line.

The pattern of a women's jacket with a hood is ready. It remains to cut the parts with and assemble the parts. It is worth noting that allowances for the girth and height of the head are made based on the style and amount of insulation in the hood.

* As a result of payment, a file with a pattern is automatically sent to the email address you specified. If the file has not arrived within 30 minutes, then you need to send a . You don't need to pay again!

Patterns are given without seam allowances.

Pattern Composition:

The quilted jacket fits well with front and back reliefs. The originality of the model lies in a technically well-thought-out oblique shelf with a bar covering the zipper. Collar - high rack "on the smell", is an excellent alternative to a scarf in windy weather.

Difficulty level - above average. Practical skills and experience in sewing skills are required.

Pattern measurements sample sizes (measurements of unpublished sizes are determined as the arithmetic average between adjacent sizes):

To sew a quilted jacket, prepare the necessary materials:
. jacket or raincoat fabric;
. non-woven fabric synthetic winterizer with a density of 150 g/sq. m (thickness 1.5-2 cm);
. non-woven fabric synthetic winterizer with a density of 100 g/sq. m (thickness 1-1.5 cm);
. detachable zipper tractor - 1 pc.;
. interlining for duplication;
. fasteners or Velcro;
. lining fabric.

Clarifications: different density of synthetic winterizer is needed to distribute the density of seams and freedom of movement. On the details of the sleeves and collar, you need to quilt the fabric with a synthetic winterizer of a lower density.

To make a practical fastener, take a high-quality tractor or spiral zipper. For the lining, you can take a fabric of your choice: fleece, quilted insulated lining, viscose, polyester.

Pay attention to an important point! Evaluate the real possibilities of your sewing machine. Not every stationary unit will adequately cope with a fabric stitch on a dense padding polyester. Pay attention to the jacket fabrics of the finished sample, you may be able to immediately buy ready-made quilted fabric. Then for the leaflets it is necessary to choose non-quilted material to match the main one.

Stitch

Let's deal with the most important starting point right away. The stitch can be done on a single piece of fabric or on separate pieces. The main fabric is superimposed over the padding polyester so that its edges protrude a few cm around the perimeter. This is difficult, as it is necessary to draw the surface with precise lines at an equal distance.

The second way is easier. The cut parts must be laid out on a synthetic winterizer, fastened with pins and stitched perpendicular lines, periodically checking the coincidence of the stripes on adjacent cut parts. The quilted parts should be stitched around the perimeter and cut out, leaving a small gap in the padding polyester - about 0.5-1 cm.

cutting

From main fabric:
- the central part of the back - 1 child. with a fold;
- back side - 2 children;
- a barrel of a shelf - 2 children;
- the central part of the shelf with a beveled front cut - 1 item;
- the central part of the shelf to the line of half skid (marked as a dotted line) - 1 child;
- the cutting part of the beveled front half to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 item;
- strap - 1 child. with a fold;
- collar - 2 children. with a fold;
- sleeve - 2 children;
- leaflet with a fold - 2 children;
- burlap - 2 children;

From sintepon:
. the central part of the back - 1 child. with a fold;
. barrel back - 2 children;
. a barrel of a shelf - 2 children;
. the central part of the shelf with a beveled front cut - 1 item;
. the central part of the shelf to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 child;
. the cutting part of the beveled front half to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 item;
. strap - 1 child. with a fold (from a thin synthetic winterizer);
. collar - 2 children. with a fold (from a thin synthetic winterizer);
. sleeve - 2 children. (from a thin synthetic winterizer);
. leaflet with a fold - 2 children. (from a thin synthetic winterizer).

From lining:

The central part of the back - 1 child. with a fold (+ step back from the fold 2 cm for the oncoming fold - for a loose fit on the back);
- back side - 2 children;
- a barrel of a shelf - 2 children;
- the central part of the shelf to the half-slip line (marked as a dotted line) - 2 children;
- sleeve - 2 children;
- burlap - 2 children;

When cutting out the parts, do not forget to add allowances for the seams and mark the notches for the correct alignment of the parts. Allowances for embossed seams, neckline, armhole - 1 cm, for side seams - 1.5 cm, placket and front center section - 1 cm, lower sections of the back and front, as well as sleeves - 3 cm. Immediately mark the location of pockets in embossed seams . Duplicate the leaves.

Operating procedure

1. Stitch details. How to do this is described at the beginning of the article in the thematic section.
2. Sew the center and side pieces of the back separately from the main fabric and separately from the lining. On the lining, immediately lay the central fold and fasten. Then do the same for the sleeves. Set aside the finished parts and proceed to the next operation.
3. Pockets. Stitch the side seams of the leaf, iron using steam. Take burlap from the main and lining fabric. Align the fabric burlap with the notches on the relief cut of the side of the shelf, applying the part “face to face”. Sew on 0.9 cm. Turn the seam towards the burlap, and fasten with a finishing stitch by 0.1 cm. Put the finished leaf with an open cut on the front side of the central part of the shelf, sew on 0.9 cm. Attach burlap on top, sew the seam into the seam , unfold the burlap towards the shelf, fasten, and complete the finishing line. Stitch the sections of the burlap, iron using the steam function.
4. Stitch the relief seams of the side and central part of the shelf from the main fabric. Repeat the operation with the details of the lining. Make notches, not reaching 0.1-0.2 cm to the seam. Perform an OBE.
5. Duplicate the bar with interlining. Fold in half right side inward, and topstitch the top and bottom edges. Cut the allowances to 0.2-0.3 cm. Turn the bar inside out, straighten the corners and stitch the open cut with a 0.5 cm straight stitch. Sew the finished bar in the oblique half of the shelf.
6. Sew shoulder seams separately on main fabric and lining.
7. Stitch the sleeves from the main fabric, combining the control notches and evenly distributing the hem along the armhole. Repeat the operation with the details of the lining.
8. Lightning. Sew one half of the zipper to the cut-off part of the half-skid, folding the braid over the cut face to face. Sew the second part to the other half of the shelf.
9. Sew the bar to the beveled cut of the shelf, and with it the simulated “selection”, that is, cut off to the half-skid line with a zipper on the second side. Give the finishing line on the cut-off part.
10. Sew the details of the shelf with the lining. Give a finishing stitch along the zipper.
11. Sew the top edge of the collar, iron the seam. Then sew the side seams by folding the collar face to face. Cut off the allowances. Iron the collar with steam, then sew into the neckline. Perform an OBE.
12. Turn the product inside out, slightly open the seam of one sleeve on the lining. Sew the bottom sleeves of the main fabric and lining. Make a hem, sew with blind stitches. Iron.
13. Turn the jacket inside out and join the bottom edge of the lining and jacket with machine stitching. Secure the hem with blind stitches.
14. Turn the jacket inside out through the sleeve and stitch the ripped area 0.1-0.2 cm.
15. Sew Velcro or insert buttons to fix the oblique part of the shelf. Jacket is ready!

For this pattern:

The pattern for the site "Casket" was prepared by Anna Ivina.

A denim jacket with fur is rapidly winning the hearts of fashionistas. And no wonder, because this is not only a stylish little thing that will help you out in any situation, but also a practical, warm and very combinatorial model - it can be combined with trousers, skirts, dresses ... In this lesson, we suggest you model a jacket pattern, and then experiment with the style on your own - lengthen or shorten the product, change the color of the fabric or fur, use long or short fur, etc.

Pattern of a women's jacket

The length of the jacket along the back is about 55 cm. From the neckline of the back, lay down 55 cm and draw a line for the bottom of the back, raising the segment to the side seam by 0.5 cm. At the same level, draw a line for the bottom of the shelf.

back modeling

Lengthen the back shoulder by 3 cm. Raise the shoulder from the extreme point by 0.5 cm and draw a shoulder line. Deepen the armhole by 2 cm and draw an armhole line.

From the neck line, set aside the width of the coquette 12-14 cm in the center of the back and draw a horizontal segment to the armhole line. Cut off the back yoke and cut out separately.

Erase the tail tuck on the back with an eraser. Set aside 6 cm from the armhole along the yoke line and lower the vertical segment down to the line of the bottom of the back. Cut the back into 2 pieces.

Rice. 1. Pattern of a women's jacket - back modeling

shelf modeling

Close the chest tuck and move it to. Straighten the side line, setting aside 2/3 of the solution of the opened tackle tuck to the right. Lengthen the shoulder of the shelf by 3 cm. Raise the shoulder from the extreme point by 0.5 cm and draw a line of the shoulder. Deepen the armhole by 2 cm and draw an armhole line.

Deepen the neckline by 1.5 cm, add 2 cm to the fastener in front. From the neckline, set aside 10 cm down the center of the front and draw a horizontal line to the armhole line. Mark the location of the buttons on the shelf. Cut off the yoke and cut it out separately.

Embossed shelf seams

Set aside 2 cm from the line of the closed chest tuck along the yoke line to the right and draw a line of the right relief seam. Set aside 3.5 cm from the armhole along the yoke line to the right and draw a line of the left relief seam. Draw a pocket and a pocket flap on the tracing paper and place it on the shelf as shown in fig. 2a. Transfer the contours of the pocket to the shelf. Additionally mark the pocket in the left relief seam.

When transferring the details of the patterns to paper, add a 5 cm allowance along the middle of the shelf to process the fastener (Fig. 2b).

Rice. 2a-b. Pattern of a women's jacket - modeling a shelf and a pocket

To build a collar pattern, measure A1B and CD according to the pattern of the back and front (Fig. 1 and 2a). Build the collar as shown in fig. 3.

Advice! The fur lining can be replaced with an insulated quilted lining on a padding polyester.

Rice. 3. Pattern collar for the jacket

Sleeve pattern for a denim jacket

For denim jackets, the sleeve consists of two parts, however, this is not a classic two-seam sleeve, but a sleeve, the pattern of which is easily modeled according to. Drop sleeves 2 cm and shorten sleeve length 3.5 cm (½ cuff width). The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the girth of the wrist + 10 cm.

Rice. 4. Sleeve pattern for a denim jacket

Additionally, it is necessary to cut out cuffs for sleeves 14 cm wide (7 cm in finished form) and for the bottom of the jacket - 10 cm wide (5 cm in finished form) and length along the length of the lower cut of the sleeve and jacket. Cut out the details of the fur lining according to the main patterns.

You will find even more original patterns and interesting ideas for creativity on the website of the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School. Sign up for a free subscription and be the first to receive new lessons!

The pattern of this model is suitable for sewing a jacket or sweatshirt.

Ready-made jacket pattern with a hood, yoke, raglan sleeve, zipper. On the shelves patch pockets with flaps.

For tailoring the proposed model of a women's jacket, raincoat fabric, jeans, corduroy, tight knitwear, fleece, etc. are suitable.

The pattern of a women's jacket is given in four sizes in full size WITHOUT ALLOWANCES FOR THE SEAMS.

The pattern can be received instantly by e-mail.

Click the button GET A PATTERN- a few simple manipulations and the pattern appears in your email box. It is this method of obtaining a pattern that is the most optimal for today - quickly, inexpensively, without advertising and without problems. When checking your mail, make sure that you have entered the address indicated on the site. You open a letter with a pattern, print it out on a regular printer, glue it, cut it out to the desired size and the patterns for cutting are ready.

Even in exceptional cases, if you have any questions upon receipt of the pattern, we will not leave you and will bring the matter to its logical conclusion.

Note: First print one sheet with a 10x10 cm control square. Check that its sides are exactly 10 cm. Achieve this using your printer settings. Now you can print all the pattern sheets and assemble them into one puzzle, according to the pattern, using narrow adhesive tape or a glue stick.

Before cutting out the pattern pieces, take a tape measure and compare your measurements with the pattern dimensions. Check all girths, sleeve length and the entire product. Determine the optimal size for yourself and cut out the details of the pattern.

CUT women's jackets

When cutting, do not forget to allow for seam allowances!

Cut details

• Shelf 2 parts
• Backrest 2 parts
• Shelf yoke 2 parts
• Back yoke 1 piece
• Sleeve front 2 parts
• Elbow part of the sleeve 2 parts
• Side part of the hood 2 parts
• The middle part of the hood 1 piece
• Facing the front cut of the hood 1 piece
• Patch pocket 2 details. Depending on the type of fabric, the pocket can be lined. In this case, from the lining fabric, you need to cut two parts of the pocket without a fold. This pattern can be copied from the shelf part (indicated by a dotted line).
• Turning the top edge of the pocket 2 parts
• Patch pocket flap 4 parts (2 parts from the main fabric, 2 parts from the lining)

The jacket can be either lined or unlined. The lining is cut along the main details of the top. The lining of the shelf is cut without taking into account the selection.

TAILORING women's jackets

NOTE:

1. After each machine operation (grinding, turning, stitching, stitching, etc.), wet heat treatment (ironing, ironing, etc.) is mandatory.

2. In products without lining, overcast all open sections after sewing.

• Finish patch pockets and flaps first.
• Sew pockets and flaps on the shelf according to the reference marks.
• Stitch the sleeves: we sew the front part of the sleeve into the armhole of the shelf, and the elbow part, respectively, into the armhole of the back.
• Stitch two pieces of the back along the middle cut.
• Connect the yoke of the shelf to the main part of the shelf, and the yoke of the back to the main part of the back, respectively.
• Stitch the top edges of the sleeves.
• Connect the side sections of the front and back at the same time as the lower sections of the sleeves.
• To process the hood: connect the middle part with the side parts of the hood. Then stitch the facing to the front edges of the hood.
• Sew the hood into the neck of the jacket.
• Process the sides (zipper).
• Process the bottom of the jacket and the bottom of the sleeves.