The most popular fashion designers. Famous fashion designers of the world and Russia

Designers are those authorities in the fashion industry who dictate fashion standards to us and define trends. Each designer is famous and recognizable for something of his own, and each has a special unique handwriting. Some of these people become real legends in the world of fashion and style. How did they do it? Maybe they are just minions of fate - or behind this is the desire to make their dream come true and gigantic work? What made them famous?

Gabrielle Boner Chanel (Coco Chanel)

Probably everyone knows the famous Mademoiselle today. She is quoted, she is sought to imitate. She had a huge impact on the fashion of the 20th century, founded the fashion house Chanel, gave the world her signature perfume under the numbers. Coco got her nickname when she sang in a cabaret. She was an extraordinary, bold and bright personality, with great willpower and impeccable taste. To her we owe the modernization of women's fashion, the adoption of many elements from the men's wardrobe, the popularity of the universal little black dress, pearls, tweed suits, small hats, costume jewelry and tan.

Coco Chanel made luxury practical. Most of all in clothes she valued comfort and embodied this principle in her collections. She said that "luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury." Among Mademoiselle's clients and acquaintances there were many world celebrities. In an interview, when asked about what events in her life aroused her interest in art, she replied: “Living in an orphanage under the supervision of nuns, I learned to sew. They taught me basic seamstress skills and I was smart enough to understand the method. I really got my hands on and focused on design at an early age, which is why I got famous clients so quickly.”

Chanel opened her first store in 1910 in Paris. They sold hats. Later, clothing appeared in her stores. Interestingly, the very first clothing that Chanel created was a dress made from a sweater. People paid attention to her outfit and asked where she got it, and in response, Koko offered to make the same outfit for those who were interested. She later said that her condition was "based on an old sweater I wore because it was cold in Deville."

Karl Lagerfeld

One of the most influential fashion designers, a man of phenomenal capacity for work, a multifaceted nature, the owner of many talents. This world-famous designer of German origin has been head of the Chanel fashion house since 1983. In addition, Karl is a designer and founder of his own fashion brand, a talented photographer, director, owner of a publishing house and a personal library of 300,000 volumes. Lagerfeld says about himself: “I am like a chameleon, several people live in me at the same time. Creating for me is like breathing. I don't even think about it. When I sit in the director's chair of Chanel, I am Chanel. When I go to Rome and I am at the Fendi House, I am Fendi. I start work on a new collection the day before the previous one is shown."

His creative abilities manifested themselves in early childhood. He studied at the Lycée Montaigne under the High Fashion Syndicate on the same course as Yves Saint Laurent. Lagerfeld collaborated with a large number of famous fashion houses, creating fragrances, ready-to-wear lines, shoes, and accessories. After he created his first fur collection for Fendi in 1966, which was a huge success, he was noticed by the most influential people in the fashion world.

In the 70s, Lagerfeld began to collaborate with famous directors and create costumes for the actors of the La Scala theater. He breathed new life into the fashion house of Chanel, becoming its head and designer, saying: “Yes, she said that fashion is dying, but style is immortal. But the style must adapt, adapt to fashion. Chanel had her own life. Great career. She's over. I did everything to make it last, and I continue to do everything to make it last forever. My main task is to try to transpose what she did into today. Guess what she would do if she lived now and here, if Mademoiselle were in my place.

Friends call Karl Kaiser (Caesar, in German) for his amazing ability to do several things at once. He hides his age and worries that there is not enough life to realize all his creative ideas. Lagerfeld loves books (he even created the Paper Passion fragrance with the smell of a freshly printed book), draws illustrations for works, cannot imagine life without photography, sews costumes for cinema and theater, produces perfumes, develops his own brand, creates hotel design, shoots short films and organizes exhibitions, produces women's collections.

Elsa Schiaparelli

The famous Italian designer of the first half of the 20th century, who is considered a surrealist from the fashion world, the main rival of Chanel, the creator of the ready-to-wear style. Elsa was born into a family of aristocrats, from childhood she studied painting, art history, and loved the theater. Working part-time as a tour guide in Paris, Elsa watched how the wives of wealthy Americans were least interested in architecture and most of all in fashion stores. Presumably, it was then that she came up with the idea to shock the public with unusual clothes.

Having met an emigrant from Armenia, whose knitted sweater Elsa liked so much, she persuaded her to create unusual models of clothes together. The fruit of their labors was a very unusual black woolen dress with a bow in the form of a butterfly. Thanks to their work, they attracted attention and received a large order from the Strauss sportswear store. It was this order that gave fame to Schiaparelli and the knitwear factory to the Armenian diaspora. Elsa founded her own fashion house. As originally planned, she shocked the public with her collections. They embodied her wildest fantasies and dreams, expressed something irrational and incomprehensible. Each item was unique. Many were created in a single copy. Hearts, constellations, hugging hands, snakes, giant flies, unusual drawings, embroidery and bizarre accessories - all this attracted attention and shocked.

It was Elsa who first invented the concept of "boutique" (a store that sells small series of designer clothes). Many celebrities collaborated with Elsa and bought her clothes with pleasure. Schiaparelli had a contract with Hollywood. She was friends with Salvador Dali (it was he who suggested to her the idea of ​​a dress with lobster and parsley and a phone bag). Under the influence of Dali, Elsa created her most unusual things: a hat in the form of a shoe or an inkwell, gloves with pockets for matches. Costume jewelry was the embodiment of the strangest ideas; lollipops, medicines, erasers, pens, pencils, dried beetles were used as materials.

Elsa often called her fashion house crazy. The popularity of the Schiaparelli collections was huge, everyone wanted to have these strange clothes, even the Duchess of Windsor herself. But when she had to leave for the United States due to the outbreak of World War II, she seemed to be forgotten about. Upon returning to Paris in 1944, her style was no longer in demand. Chanel dominated the fashion scene and Elsa decided to leave the fashion world.

Both talented women were innovators in the fashion world, but completely different. Chanel created within the framework of the classics, without focusing on brightness and catchiness. Elsa was extravagant, loved to shock and provoke. The contribution of both to fashion is undeniably invaluable, although the Schiaparelli brand has not existed for a long time. Elsa's ideas and discoveries can be seen embodied in modern fashion, as if she was ahead of her time. Unusual color combinations, fuchsia color (shocking pink is also Schiaparelli’s idea!), bottles in the form of a female body, fur shoes, ankle boots, unusual bags - all these are the ideas of the talented Elsa, who had a huge impact on the world of fashion and style .

Christian Dior

One of the most famous French fashion designers, to whom we owe ultra-feminine New Look dresses. He had artistic talent, and in his youth he dreamed of becoming a great artist. After his private Art Gallery went bankrupt, he went through hard times, poverty and unemployment, but fate seemed to be preparing a different path for him. He began to design theatrical costumes, draw sketches for French fashion magazines. And these sketches became extremely popular, he began to cooperate with the fashion department of the newspaper Figaro, he was noticed. I decided to specialize in fashion models, although hat designs were much more popular. Dior was noticed by the famous fashion designer Piguet, but due to the war, Dior's career did not start at that time.

Upon his return from the army, Christian began working at the famous fashion house Lucien Lelong, where he learned a lot. In 1946, thanks to the financing of a textile magnate, Dior's fashion house opened in Paris. At the age of 42, he became famous, his first collection, called by himself "The Crowned Line", was recognized as revolutionary and was a resounding success. Just imagine the post-war period, when women yearned so much for beauty and sophistication, for emphatically feminine and luxurious outfits. Dior, incredibly sensitive and talented, felt the mood of the society, its desires and dreams. Parisians were so tired of masculine jackets and short skirts then that they greeted the Dior collection with delight. Feminine silhouettes, luxurious and bright fabrics, cinched waists, ankle-length skirts (either puffy or straight), small round shoulders - everything in this collection was the very embodiment of traditional femininity and charm.

But not everything was so rosy. Feminists have criticized the collection, saying that the return to crinolines and corsets indicates the oppression of working women. Many believed that after the war, luxury and flamboyance were out of place and blasphemous. However, despite the criticism, the new look captivated the public. Dior's popularity was overwhelming, his name became associated with luxury and good taste. Each of his collections was awaited with bated breath, and each was a success.

Only in 1954 was there a slightly dangerous moment for Dior's career, when Chanel returned to the fashion scene, who could not stand the "horrors of the 50s", as she spoke of Dior's models. But Dior very intelligently got out of the situation by releasing a new collection, light and unconstrained. Different than before, but still the same feminine. The silhouettes were more natural, the lines softened. Dior's personal assistant, after the death of the great couturier, once said that "if Dior were alive, fashion would not be in such a deplorable state in which it is now."

Yves Saint Laurent

One of the leading fashion designers of the 20th century, whom Christian Dior chose as his successor. From childhood, he drew and loved the theater, made home puppet shows, glued costumes and painted scenery. Laurent worked as an assistant to Dior and was fascinated by his genius, and Dior, in turn, immediately recognized the future master in the young man.

At 21, Laurent becomes the head of one of the most famous fashion houses after the sudden death of Dior and literally saves the brand from financial ruin. He presented his first women's collection of a softer and lighter version of the new look with an A-line silhouette. Laurent was the first to introduce French fashion to the USSR (1959) by flying here with 12 fashion models.

It seemed that bright prospects lay ahead as a successor who lived up to the expectations of the late Dior. But it was not, however, without envy and trouble. The owner of the fashion house Dior (Marcel Boussac) is rumored to have insisted that Saint Laurent be sent to military service in Africa, thereby wanting to get rid of the designer. There he learns that he was fired from the Dior fashion house.

In 1961, the brand Yves Saint Laurent (Yves Saint Laurent) appears, his first collection was a great success. Oriental motifs, bright colors, inspiration comes from African countries. Saint Laurent also produces perfumes, works as a theater designer, creates scenery and costumes.

The ideas of Laurent's subsequent collections also received great recognition and became a kind of fashion classic: women's tuxedos (later they became the brand's signature feature), trouser suits, high boots, turtleneck sweaters, black leather jackets, safari-style dresses, ethnic motifs. Laurent becomes the first designer to launch a full-fledged ready-to-wear line and also the first designer to have an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art during his lifetime.

Giorgio Armani

The Italian fashion designer is called a fashion pioneer of the 20th century, a master of tailoring, an adherent of quality and a great aesthete. Giorgio from childhood loved art and theater, he painted and sewed clothes for dolls. He had a dream of becoming an actor, but his parents insisted on the profession of a doctor. After two years of study, Giorgio dropped out of the university. He found himself in the world of fashion. Armani created his own brand in 1974, and before that he worked as a window dresser in a large chain department store, and also designed menswear for Nino Cerruti.

Armani's professional fabric skills have led to the fact that, in fact, thanks to him, the approach to tailoring menswear has completely changed. Lightness and smoothness appeared, which, along with simplicity and conciseness, provide his products with a special chic and convenience. After the overwhelming success of the men's collection, Armani began to present women's collections, paying special attention to working women. In his collections, traditional views harmoniously coexist with the most modern trends. He modernized the classics with great grace and taste. Luxurious materials, experiments with the combination of fabrics, functionality and versatility, casual elegance are the hallmarks of the Armani collections.

Ralph Lauren

A well-known American designer, who is called the king of ready-made dresses, who "discovered America for America." His company (Polo Ralph Lauren Corporation) produces accessories, clothing, underwear, textiles, furniture, wallpapers, perfumes, dishes. Lauren has been named Designer of the Year three times and has also been named Fashion Legend by the U.S. Designers Council. For many people, Ralph Lauren is an example of how a person from a low social stratum can reach great heights with a dream and talent. A native of Belarus (his parents met and got married in the USA), from a poor large family, Ralph from a young age set himself the goal of succeeding. He was struck by the wardrobe of a classmate, which belonged only to him alone, and in which the clothes were so neatly laid out. In Ralph's apartment, there was only one closet for everyone. Since then, the future designer decided to work and save money for his dream.

Interestingly, Lauren does not have a fashion designer diploma, but at the same time he is one of the world's best designers. He does not sew clothes himself, but he is an inspirer, a designer, he thinks through each collection to the smallest detail. The designer himself says this: “I never went to fashion school - I was a young guy who had his own style. I could not imagine that "polo" would become what it is. I just followed my instincts."

At first, Ralph worked as a salesman (sold clothes, gloves and ties), then became a tie designer, created a fundamentally new model (he was inspired by the novel The Great Gatsby): a wide silk tie (while thin ties were in vogue then). Thanks to an investor, Lauren and her brother opened a store and their own Polo Fashion brand. People wanted high-quality and stylish things and accessories, the brand was gaining more and more popularity. Lauren released ready-to-wear collections (first for men and then for women) and accessories. He was the only one to produce sports shirts in 24 shades.

Loren's collections combine chic, sophistication and at the same time ease, simplicity and brightness. “My clothes are a vision of what I believe in. Someone once told me that I am a writer. It's true - I write through my clothes. She embodies history, not just clothes, ”said Lauren. Ralph's wife inspired him to create women's clothing collections: “My wife has good taste and her own style. When she wore shirts, sweaters and jackets bought from men's stores, people always asked where she got it. I associated her appearance with a young Katharine Hepburn - a rebel girl on a horse with her hair fluttering in the wind. I made shirts for her." Lauren brought Western style into fashion. And polo shirts never seem to go out of style.

Boy Ralph's dreams come true: he is one of the richest people in the world, he has a strong family, three children, owns a ranch and is one of the world's largest collectors of vintage cars.

Roberto Cavalli

The famous Italian designer asks to be called a "fashion artist" and is famous for his exotic and spectacular collections of clothes and accessories. His fashion house adheres to the philosophy of femininity, chic and bright temperament. The designer himself in an interview said that his fashion “became successful and relevant, because other designers continued to produce monotonous things ... For a long time, designers tried to dress women on an equal basis with men. I changed this trend. I'm trying to emphasize the feminine, sexy side that is present in every member of the fair sex.

A great influence on the disclosure of Cavalli's talent was made by his grandfather, the famous artist Giuseppe Rossi, and his mother, who was a dressmaker and designer. As a child, helping his mother with sewing clothes, Cavalli realized that he wanted to work in design and fashion. He was one of the best students of the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence, he studied the technology of printing on textiles. Even then, he created a series of floral prints that attracted the interest of large factories in Italy. Cavalli always loved to experiment, while still studying at the Academy, he began to come up with different ways of dyeing leather and fabric, he was then only 20 years old.

And so, these experiments led to the fact that in the early 70s, Cavalli himself invented and patented a printing system on leather, which allowed it to be dyed in six different colors. This revolutionary invention instantly became popular with various fashion houses. Stretch denim jeans are yet another hit from Cavalli that made the Maison prosperous and successful.

The bright and extravagant clothes of Roberto Cavalli are in great demand among fashionistas around the world, they are worn by the most glamorous celebrities on the planet. Cavalli believes that a woman should have a character and a strong personality. In an interview, he said: “Beauty comes from within, and is a reflection of the individuality of each person ... Beauty is a calling card that helps at the first meeting, but is completely useless at the second.”

Valentino Garavani

The founder of the Valentino fashion house, the famous Italian fashion designer loved to draw since childhood, in his youth he loved art and was interested in fashion. He was an apprentice, studied at the School of Fine Arts in Paris, and at the School of the Chamber of Haute Couture. He worked in several fashion houses, then opened his own atelier. His works were distinguished by refinement, excellent cut, expensive fabrics, handmade decor, and sophistication. In 1960, the Valentino brand was born.

Thanks to a meeting with the architect Giametti, the future CEO of the fashion house, Valentino gets the opportunity to engage only in creativity, without delving into the intricacies of business. He himself said: “I only know how to draw dresses, receive guests and decorate a house, but I don’t understand anything in business.” In one of the collections of the 60s there were red outfits, which later became the hallmark of the Valentino fashion house. The fashion designer says: “Red is the best color. It suits any woman, you just need to remember that there are more than 30 different shades of this color.

Over the years, the designer has dressed celebrity celebrities, many of them preferred to purchase exquisite wedding dresses from him. Among his clients were such legendary personalities as Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor. At the Oscars, many actresses shone in outfits from Valentino. In 2007, the famous fashion designer announced his retirement from the world of fashion, and in 2008, a farewell show took place at Paris Haute Couture Week, where all the models walked the catwalk in red dresses, and the audience gave a standing ovation.

The fashion world is famous for its masters, whose number is growing every day. However, there are names that will never be forgotten in the fashion industry. It is about these people that will be discussed in this article.

French fashion designers.

Coco Chanel(Coco Chanel 1883 - 1971) - fashion designer, founded the most chic and famous fashion house Chanel. Her most important inventions are the little black dress and the 2.55 bag. The bag got its name in accordance with the date of its creation (February, 1955), and the essence was that it was the first bag model in the world that did not have to be carried in hands; this bag was a small rectangle on a long chain.

Christian Dior (Christian Dior 1905 - 1957) - founder of the Christian Dior fashion house. Initially engaged in the production of perfumery products. The main merit of this fashion designer is the opening to the world of such a style as New Look, where the main role is given to the corset and crinoline, which emphasized femininity and romance. It was thanks to this discovery that Paris became the main capital of world fashion.

Pierre Cardin(Pierre Cardin) is the founder of the fashion house Pierre Cardin. He has more than 500 patented inventions on his account - these are men's ties with polka dots, and colored stockings, and mini sundresses, and high boots. Cardin was the first to become interested in denim, and he was also the first to develop children's and youth clothing.

Hubert de Givenchy(Hubert de Givenchy) is the founder of the Givenchy fashion house. At the head of this house at different times were John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. Givenchy became famous for his image for actress Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's.

Jean Paul Gaultier (Jean-Paul Gaultier) - founder and president of the fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier S.A. It is noteworthy that Gauthier does not have a special education. The fashion designer, one might say, is an “open” gay, and it was his orientation that became the leader in creating fashionable images. So, for example, he dressed men in women's skirts and suits. Marilyn Manson is a regular client of Gauthier.

Paco Rabanne(Paco Rabanne) - a native of Spain, a French fashion designer. He shocked the whole world with his first collection called "12 models from modern materials", which presented outfits made of paper, metal and plastic. He is also the first designer to put a black girl on the runway.

British fashion designers.

Vivienne Westwood (Vivienne Westwood) is a British fashion designer. The main merit is the creation of a punk style, thanks to which all the “correct” ideas about fashion were dispelled. In addition to clothing, there are also lines of perfumes and accessories.

John Galliano (John Galliano) - English designer, ex-art director of Christian Dior (1996 - 2001). Has four awards as "Best Designer of the Year". Known for his passion for avant-garde style, which has become the main feature of all his collections. In all the outrageous outfits of John Galliano, a note of luxury and aristocracy is visible. By the way, it was he who opened the world of such famous models as Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell.

The most influential fashion designers in the world, using their own talents, form entire fashion empires that set the tone for the fashion world for decades. Below is a list of the ten best and most famous fashion designers in the world who have shaped modern fashion.

Donatella Versace (born May 2, 1955) is a famous Italian fashion designer, the younger sister of the founder of the Versace fashion house, Gianni Versace. After the assassination of the great designer in 1997, Donatella inherited a 20% stake and became vice president and chief designer of the company. She presented her first collection a year and three days after her brother's death in July 1998, proving that the future of Versace fashion house is in good hands.

Donna Karan (born October 2, 1948) is an American fashion designer, creator of the world famous brands Donna Karan and DKNY. She presented her first collection of clothes for women, Seven Easy Pieces (“Seven Simple Things”), which later became legendary and glorified Donna, in 1985. The unique concept of this collection was that every woman should include in her basic wardrobe seven things that are indispensable for her. As Donna herself says, she never aspired to create luxurious outfits - her clothes are for everyone.

Eighth place in the list of the top ten fashion designers in the world is Calvin Richard Klein (born November 19, 1942) - a rather scandalous American fashion designer, founder of Calvin Klein Inc, considered one of the founders of the Unisex style. Calvin was the first in the world to start presenting and selling expensive "designer jeans" on the catwalks, which later made him famous.

Thomas Carlyle Ford (born August 27, 1961) is an American fashion designer, director, and screenwriter. Gained recognition in the fashion industry, both from the general public and from peers, while serving as director of design (later creative director) at Gucci. He is also known for directing the Oscar-nominated film A Single Man. In 2006, he founded his own brand called "Tom Ford", which produces men's clothing, eyewear and accessories.

Pierre Cardin (born 2 July 1922) is an Italian-born French fashion designer, one of the most influential in fashion history. Pierre Cardin is known for his avant-garde style, preferring abstract, geometric forms, often ignoring feminine lines. He is the owner of several restaurants in New York, Beijing, London, he also owns Lacoste Castle in the Vaucluse department. In 1950, he founded his own fashion house and patented over 500 inventions, including high boots, colored stockings, mini sundresses, etc.

Ralph Lauren (born October 14, 1939) is an American fashion designer, philanthropist and businessman, one of the richest people in the world (his fortune is estimated at $ 7.5 billion). Was awarded the title "Legend of American Fashion". In 1967 he founded Polo Ralph Lauren, and in 1968 launched his first menswear collection. Since 1971, he began designing a women's clothing line. Under his own name, Ralph Lauren also produces home furnishings, accessories, perfumes and pet products.

On the fourth line in the ranking is Christian Dior (January 21, 1905 - October 23, 1957) - French fashion designer, founder of the Christian Dior fashion house, which is one of the ten most expensive clothing brands in the world. Christian presented his first clothing collection called New Look, which brought the designer worldwide fame and made a revolution in the world of post-war fashion, on February 12, 1947.

Yves Henri Don Mathieu Saint Laurent (August 1, 1936 - June 1, 2008) - famous French fashion designer, founder of the fashion house Yves Saint Laurent (Saint Laurent Paris). Introduced elements of men's wardrobe into women's fashion - leather jackets, thigh-high boots and tuxedos. He was the first in the world to use black fashion models in his shows. Throughout his life, Yves Saint Laurent suffered from depression and other mental illnesses. He often underwent treatment in a psychiatric clinic. He died of brain cancer at his residence in Paris.

Giorgio Armani (born July 11, 1934) is an Italian fashion designer, founder of Giorgio Armani SpA. With a fortune of 8.5 billion dollars, he is one of the richest people in Italy. He presented his first clothing collection in 1974. Since the early 80s, it has been producing perfumes, accessories, watches and jewelry. He is a co-owner of the hotel, which occupies from the 1st to the 39th floor of the tallest building in the world - the Burj Khalifa skyscraper.

Coco Chanel (August 19, 1883 - January 10, 1971) - famous French fashion designer, perhaps the most important figure in the history of fashion of the XX century, the founder of the Chanel fashion house. Introduced a fitted jacket and a small strict black dress into women's fashion. In 1921, she created the Chanel No. 5 perfume, which became iconic throughout the world and is still used today. Coco's influence was so strong that Time magazine included her in the list of the 100 most influential people of the 20th century, the only representative from the fashion world in the ranking.

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Fashion is not only an industry, but also an art. Fashion is always sensitive to changes in society, sometimes it helps to “keep up the mark” and maintain a presence of mind in unbearable situations - it’s worth remembering the French women in occupied Paris, who stubbornly continued to wear dresses and demonstrate French chic to the invaders to show: “You can’t conquer us. You can seize our lands, but you cannot break our spirit!..” We decided to talk about 20 famous couturiers, the main innovators and revolutionaries of the fashion world and real Artists who worked in the name of beauty.

Charles and Jean-Philip Worth

The first couturier in the history of High Fashion is deservedly considered the Englishman Charles Frederick Worth - the king of fashion designers and the fashion designer of kings, among whose clients there were 9 crowned persons. In 1857, Worth opened his first full-fledged fashion house - on the Rue de la Paix in Paris. After the death of Charles himself, the House passed to his sons, Jean-Philip and Gasne. Jean-Philip Worth in the 20th century will also become a famous couturier, a favorite of the great Italian actress Eleonora Duse. The Vorta would become the first fashionable dynasty.

Jacques Doucet

Young Jacques Doucet was not at all going to connect his future with fashion - he dreamed of becoming a famous artist. But after the death of his parents, Jacques inherited their production of Doucet Lingerie, a family business selling underwear. "Mr. Jacques", as he was now called, got involved in the business and turned it into the main fashion house of the early 20th century. Doucet created luxurious, majestic, intricate outfits, and valued luxury and beauty much more than practicality and relevance. He was a well-known philanthropist and helped young talents: for example, it was Mr. Jacques who discovered Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet to the fashion world.

Jeanne Paquin

Paul Poiret

Paul Poiret began sewing as a child, creating outfits for his sisters' dolls. After learning from Jacques Doucet, he got a job at the House of Worth, and having honed his skills there, he opened his own House. Poiret was the first fashion designer to suggest that women abandon the corset and wear antique-style tunics and high-waisted dresses. Poiret's outfits and fabrics were always luxurious - he looked for inspiration in the culture of the East, like many couturiers after the arrival of the Russian ballet and the famous "Diaghilev seasons" in Paris. At that time, Russia was also considered the "East", and Poiret even created the Kazan collection with elements of Russian folk costume.

Unfortunately, already in the 1920s, the popularity of couturier began to decline. There were completely different things in fashion, and Coco Chanel became a symbol of change. Poiret was outraged by the abundance of black and the simplicity of her clothes, he even asked Mademoiselle Coco herself if all this meant that she was in mourning. The cruel Coco answered Poiret: “Yes, for you!”

Coco Chanel

This legendary woman really needs no introduction - we think everyone, regardless of age, gender and place of residence, has heard of Mademoiselle Coco. A little black dress, Chanel No. 5 perfume, the first trouser suits, a tweed jacket that has become a cult, the luxury of simplicity and elegance, instead of pomposity and embellishments, Chanel 2.55 quilted it-bags - all this has been inherited by modern fashionistas from the main Frenchwoman of the fashion world.

Elsa Schiaparelli

"Shocking Elsa", the first eccentric of fashion and the ancestor of pret-a-porte, is now far from being as famous as her main rival, Coco Chanel. Their working methods and approach to fashion differed as much as possible: Elsa loved to shock, worked with surrealist artists and did not like black and tweed at all. It was she who introduced shocking pink into fashion - bright fuchsia, shocking pink, which became her calling card - she was buried in a suit of this color. Together with Salvador Dali, Elsa invented and created a lobster dress, a skeleton dress, and a whole collection of hats: a mutton chop hat, a shoe hat, a telescope hat ... We are not enthusiastic to talk about this woman full of ideas and energy. we can't - be sure to read her inspiring autobiography "My Shocking Life"!

Madeleine Vionnet

Madeleine Vionnet has always been called the "fashion architect" - it was she who came up with the oblique cut technique and was a real master of draperies. Her dresses, thanks to the craftsmanship of the cut, always fit perfectly, emphasizing every curve of the client's body. And the fashionable "pirates", trying to copy Vionne's outfits and capitalize on her talent, fought for hours trying to figure out their design - they had to first unpick the dress, embroider numerous tucks and try to understand how these pieces fit together into one harmony.

Jeanne Lanvin

Jeanne Lanvin's career as a fashion designer began with dresses for her little daughter - seeing the charming dresses of the baby walking with her mother, other women stopped to find out what kind of tailor sews such wonderful children's things. Jeanne Lanvin soon began to sew dresses for adults, but children's collections were also sold in all her stores. She always looked for inspiration in the living colors of nature and the canvases of artists, admired Botticelli and Renoir. And the hallmark of the House was the famous shade "blue Lanvin".

Jean Patou

Jean Patou was not a master in drawing or sewing, and often created his models directly on the mannequin. He became the first designer to start producing sportswear - tennis skirts and shorts, swimwear, and gained fame as a tailor for tennis star Suzanne Lanolin. Patou looked for inspiration in the works of cubist artists, adopting their geometric shapes, strict lines and contrasting colors.

Madame Gre

Madame Gre, in her own words, always wanted to be a sculptor - and did not see the difference between working with stone and working with fabric. She, like a real sculptor, created all her masterpiece dresses “live”, right on the mannequin and without patterns, so it was simply impossible to copy her things. The incredible complexity of the drapery, the perfect fit of the outfits turned the models into the best examples of ancient art.

Marcel Rocha

Marcel Rocha in 1942 anticipated the revolution that Christian Dior would make in fashion five years later: even before the appearance of the famous new look, Rocha returns to women's wardrobes the corset, forgotten for many war years. And also - loose flannel trousers, an item that was generally not typical for the women's wardrobe of those years. Women before the advent of Marcel Rochi wore trousers only in exceptional cases - either on vacation or at home, and Rocha made them a full part of everyday wardrobe.

Jacques Fat

Before becoming a fashion designer, Jacques Fat managed to serve in the army, get captured, receive several military awards and work on the stock exchange - only then did he open his own atelier. Fat learned the skill of the designer himself. And he gained popularity thanks to the new style of a chic young Parisian he created: he sewed fluttering airy skirts, luxurious dresses, and even before Christian Dior he began to experiment with a silhouette that would soon be called new look.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior was glorified by his famous 1947 collection - the one that showed the post-war world the feminine silhouette of the new look. From that very collection for ten years (until his death in 1957), Christian Dior was the recognized king of fashion. Dior approached the creation of collections with incredible care: in his autobiography Dior on Dior, he talks in detail about how he worked on shows, how he could send a single dress for rework 7-8 times and in the end not even turn it on to the collection.

Hubert de Givenchy

Before opening his own House, Hubert de Givenchy managed to work with the most famous designers of those years: Jacques Fat, Christian Dior, Elsa Schiaparelli. It was Elsa who gave him a start in life, who saw talent in a young man. Givenchy's muse and regular client for 40 years was Audrey Hepburn - she came to him for costumes for the film "Sabrina", and this meeting was the beginning of a long-term friendship. For this film, Hubert Givenchy received his first Oscar as a costume designer and designed outfits for Audrey in many more films - including the most famous, Breakfast at Tiffany's.

Cristobal Balenciaga

Cristobal Balenciaga is a real mystery of the fashion world. He never let strangers into his life, so not much is known about her. At the age of 13, he completed his first order - he approached the Marquise de Cassa Torres on the street and said that he would have sewn an outfit much better than the one she is wearing now, if he had the same fabrics. The marquise was surprised, but suggested that the boy try to make her a toilet - and was shocked when he sewed an outfit for her no worse than any eminent couturier. At 16, he opened his own atelier. At 19 - own fashion house. He was a great architect and knew how to combine the severity of lines with exaggerated volumes, restraint and luxury. Coco Chanel herself recognized him as her only competitor - and the only Couturier with a capital letter among designers.

Paco Raban

Paco Raban in the 60s made a real revolution in fashion - this time technological. His collection, consisting of only 12 outfits and presented in Paris in 1966, made a splash - he created outfits from modern materials: plastic, metal, feathers and metal mesh, paper, dry flowers. His works fully reflected the spirit of the space age, the fashion for futurism and fantasies about the technogenic future. It is possible that Paco Raban's education as an architect prompted him to use materials that were not at all “fashionable” and not used in fashion, although he did not work a single day in his specialty.

Pierre Balmain

The very first collection of Pierre Balmain, released in 1945, amazed the public. Balmain sang the luxury, brilliance and brightness forgotten during the war years. The collection included evening dresses, kimonos, trouser suits made of expensive fabrics - and all with rich trimmings, sewing, embroidery, and lace. He liked to dress women beautifully, but without excessive extravagance.

Pierre Cardin

The first years of his work, Pierre Cardin devoted exclusively to the creation of costumes for the theater, and only then moved on to the creation of women's and men's collections. He retained some theatricality in his approach to modeling: the main distinguishing features of Cardin's style were the use of unusual synthetic materials, bright simple colors and unusual shapes - it was thanks to this that he received the unspoken title of the main futurist of the fashion world. The most famous creation of Cardin was the balloon dress.

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent began his career with Christian Dior, and after his death, became the head of the Dior house. His 1958 collection earned rave reviews from critics, but in the 60th Saint Laurent was drafted into the army, and he returned to fashion only a year later - but already in his own House of Yves Saint Laurent. Yves Saint Laurent invented the first women's tuxedo, introduced many other elements of men's wardrobe into women's fashion and is considered the founder of the unisex style.

Militta periodically receives letters from girls graduating from school, they ask where to go to study next in order to find their place in the fashion industry. Militta wrote a lot of materials on this topic - we talked about the choice of educational institutions in, the USA and Europe, and today we will try to clarify the situation around the main specialties - fashion designer and fashion designer.

Sometimes you can hear the statement that a couturier, a fashion designer, a fashion designer and even a stylist are one person, they are all doing the same thing. In reality, everything is a little different, let's try to figure out who does what.

Design, designer and fashion designer
Initially, the word "design" appeared in the 16th century, and became widespread in the middle of the 19th century in Europe in connection with the development of production and technology.

In the USSR, the profession of a designer became widespread in the second half of the 20th century, but in order to adapt the profession to the Soviet ideology, the word “design” was replaced by “art design”.

The end of the 20th century and the 21st century brought many changes, the USSR collapsed, but in Russia everything changed, many new prospects opened up. Today, the profession of a designer is in great demand, we have many different designers, including those who are engaged in clothing. Along with fashion designers, the profession of “fashion designer”, more familiar to previous generations, remains, and for many there is no difference in the work of a designer and a fashion designer.

The name of the profession "fashion designer" exists exclusively in the Russian tradition, in other countries the definition of a designer is accepted. But meanwhile, these two professions not only have different names, they solve different problems. A fashion designer designs clothes, and a designer designs them. In order to feel the difference, let's understand these two concepts.

Clothing modeling involves its shaping using various techniques and methods. Clothing design is the process of creating a new form, which begins with the development of the concept of the project and the definition of the main design task.

In other words, the designer finds moods and trends flying in modern society, analyzes the needs of people and creates a new concept of clothing collections, guessing the desires of tomorrow's consumers. The designer creates new forms, and sometimes a new function of a thing and a new reality.

The fashion designer, on the other hand, develops new clothes based on existing ones - he changes tucks into reliefs, plays with the shape of the sleeve and collar, varies the length of the product, mixes styles, chooses a decorative solution. Agree, many modern fashion designers around the world are doing this. The lists of participants of fashion weeks in Paris and Milan, London and New York are constantly updated, but often new collections are pure fashion modeling. Therefore, when choosing the profession of a fashion designer, you need to clearly understand that a real designer creates a new human environment, designs a new space for material things, and does not redraw the retro style in a modern way.

Designer and fashion designer - who is more needed?

Both professions are in demand on the Russian labor market today. Fashion designers work in ateliers, at sewing and knitting enterprises, designers - in design studios, experimental workshops at enterprises, in design bureaus. At the same time, a designer can sometimes be a fashion designer, and a fashion designer can become a designer.

But the differences do not end there, the profession of a fashion designer is divided into several specializations.

1. The fashion designer develops drawings, changes the model features of the product according to the sketch of the fashion designer or the customer (if we are talking about an atelier).

2. A fashion designer-technologist selects or develops current methods for sewing a product, looking for the most suitable processing methods that simplify the process of manufacturing a new item.

3. A fashion designer creates sketches - looks for new shapes and silhouettes of the product on paper, works out possible finishes, draws the design of the product in detail. There are several stages in the development of sketches from the first sketches to a technical drawing, which is given to the designer to develop a design drawing.

It is assumed that each of the three above-mentioned fashion designers knows all the stages of clothing production, knows how to draw, design, translate their ideas into material, and will be able to organize a demonstration of their models. Only the most demanded specialist is a universal fashion designer, since only large successful companies with large production volumes can afford to keep several fashion designers on staff who solve different problems.

And the designer determines the basic concept of the entire collection, develops sketches, designs, tailoring technology, thinks over the defile scenario and participates in the development of advertising campaigns.