Assembling plastic airplane models. What tools do you need to build your first model? Dashboard trim

Collecting, as well as the collection of aircraft models, occupies a special place among the many different types of hobbies. When assembling a model from ready-made plastic parts, you should be as careful, accurate, patient and assiduous as possible. You should also have an idea of ​​the history of the equipment that you began to collect.

To assemble a beautiful airplane model, the instructions included in the kit you purchased are not enough. In order to ensure that after assembly your model turns out without glue drips, its surface is smooth, with well-applied paint, you should study the basic rules of high-quality assembly. These basic rules will be discussed in today’s article.

So, let's move on directly to assembling a plastic model of an airplane, but for this you should purchase the kit that interests you. If you have not yet decided on your future choice, you can familiarize yourself with the large assortment of our store, as well as buy the one you liked. In our store you will find a variety of kits for assembling both military equipment of various periods and civilian ones.

Before you start assembling the model, you should prepare the necessary set of tools, such as: a model knife, glue - model and PVA, special modeling tape or tape, tweezers, sandpaper, brushes or an airbrush, as well as primer, putty and paints.

Then you should remove the entire contents of the set and check that all parts are present and that they are not damaged or deformed. If, after checking, all parts are in place and not damaged, proceed to the next step.

Next, you should prepare a workplace - it should be a large, spacious table, which is covered with a special model rug. The room where the aircraft will be assembled must be well lit and the light must be bright. If you have an airbrush and will paint the assembled structure with it, then the room must be equipped with good ventilation.

An important factor is how the model will ultimately look. To do this, it is worth finding images of a real prototype of the selected model in historical literature or on the Internet.

Main assembly steps:

1. First of all, we select the sprues to which the main body parts are attached - these are the fuselage and wings. Carefully, using a modeling knife, we cut off the parts and process the attachment points to the sprues with sandpaper.

Separate the parts from the sprues sequentially, so as not to confuse their identity and place in the model in the future.

2. Next, we put the halves of the body together and secure it with modeling tape or tape. We also attach all the main parts to the structure using modeling tape or tape. Having made sure that all the parts fit together and clearly occupy their niches, we can begin gluing the aircraft together.

3. Before you start gluing the fuselage parts together, you should assemble and paint the cockpit. After the cabin has completely dried, we place it between the fuselage halves and begin gluing the halves together.

4. Now let's go directly to gluing models. Aircraft parts should be glued one at a time. Glue each subsequent part only after the previous one has dried. Try to apply the glue carefully, without leaving drips.

5. After gluing all the parts and the glue has completely dried, we perform grinding airplane models. This is done using sandpaper. This procedure is necessary to give a smooth surface to the structure.

6. Next we apply putty, to avoid all kinds of cracks, dents and other things at the joints between the wings and the body. Carefully apply the putty to the desired areas, and remove the remaining excess with a wet rag.

7. After the putty has completely dried, we sand the aircraft body again with sandpaper.

8. Having achieved a smooth surface of our body, we move on to its priming. But before you do this, you need to degrease the body, for this you should use a special degreaser or alcohol. We also cover with modeling tape areas that should not be touched by the primer, such as the cockpit window and lights.

This procedure is necessary to identify imperfections on the surface of the aircraft model before painting it, and also to ensure that the paint lays down in an even layer and does not chip when drying.

The primer should be applied with smooth, quick movements along or across the model. The can of primer should be kept 30 - 50 cm from the surface of the aircraft. Since soil is a toxic substance, the procedure should be performed with a respirator and gloves.

First we prime the upper part of the body and leave it to dry for 30 - 40 minutes. After drying, prime the lower part, and now the model should dry for two days.

9. After the primer has completely dried, the aircraft body must be carefully sand. We perform this action until the surface becomes smooth.

10. Before painting, carefully blow off the model so that no dust particles or hairs remain on it. Only after this procedure should you begin painting the assembled model of the aircraft. Small parts should be painted without removing them from the sprue

Assembly is just part of the fun of working on a model. The final stage of such an interesting process is painting, applying decals and varnish to the assembled model. And after completing all stages of assembly, painting and applying the final touches, the aircraft model you have assembled will take its rightful place in your home collection.

Glue for models

Model stores offer a fairly large assortment of glue for models from different manufacturers and for different types of work. At first it is quite difficult for a beginner to understand this diversity. I hope this article, based on personal experience, will be useful to beginning modeling enthusiasts.

As a rule, everyone first buys glue for “Star” models. This glue has two advantages: it is available in all model stores and costs a penny. This is where the advantages end and after a very short time the glue from the bottle ends up spilled on the table at best, or on the carpet at worst, because... The shape of the bottle is designed just for this. In general, try it - you won't like it. :)

Tamiya cement extra thin model glue with lemon scent

This glue for models is our everything! Excellent for gluing PS plastic from which models are made, it leaves virtually no marks on the surface of the model. The lid is equipped with a brush, which is convenient for applying glue to the surfaces to be glued. The bottle is very stable, you won't accidentally turn it over.

Glue can be applied to the joints of parts before gluing, or you can first join the parts and then simply carefully apply a small amount of glue to the joint. Due to its good fluidity, the glue itself will spread over the joint and reliably wet the surfaces to be glued. In general, they are a pleasure to work with!

Tamiya has two types of this glue, lemon scented (in fact, it smells more like orange) and traditional (green label). I chose glue with a fragrance (it’s a little more expensive) so as not to cause unpleasant sensations to my household.

As practice shows, this amount of glue will last for a very long time, the consumption is minimal. The glue is very economical.

Adhesive for Tamiya cement models with lemon scent

It has a thicker consistency and the brush is thicker. The rest of the characteristics are the same quality glue.

I use it in cases where I need to practically “weld” one part to another. Although, liquid glue copes with this task just as well.

I read somewhere on the forums that this glue can be diluted and you can get exactly the same liquid glue as Tamiya Extra Thin, but I forgot what. In the same way, there is an analogue of glue without fragrance.

Cyanoacrylic glue

Cyanoacrylic glue Super Moment. 3 gr.

Sold in any supermarket in 3 gram packages and under different brands. Used when you need to glue parts made of tin, photo-etching or any other materials other than model plastic. For example, all the tin parts were glued together with this glue. In online model stores you can find specialized glue for models based on cyanoacrylate. In fact, this is the same glue from the supermarket, only several times more expensive, I don’t see the point in buying it.

Super glue sets instantly, which is a disadvantage in our business, because... it is impossible to adjust the location of the parts to be glued after they are connected. A part glued with this glue can easily come off if you apply a certain amount of force, so you need to be careful.

For ease of use, I use empty tablet packaging. I squeeze a drop of glue into the “cup” and apply it to the surface to be glued with a simple toothpick. It turns out very neat and economical.

“Palette and brush” for super glue

It's important to remember that cyanoacrylate vapors are quite toxic and it is better to work with it in a ventilated area. Well, try to keep your nose away from the gluing area, which is not always possible :)

Glue "Moment"

Universal glue Moment

“Moment” is convenient for gluing large parts made of tin to plastic. Before gluing, you need to apply a thin layer of glue to both parts, wait a while, and then press them together. It is convenient because you can adjust the position of the parts for some time after gluing; excess glue can be easily cleaned off. The gluing area must be allowed to dry.

Denis Demin, AllModels channel, recommends diluting Moment glue with a solvent to obtain a more liquid consistency, which makes it more convenient to work with.

Glue moment crystal

Transparent glue Moment “Crystal”

I'm thinking of trying it as a model glue for gluing transparent parts. Conducted an experiment on a transparent sprue. So far it’s not very impressive: air bubbles form in the drop and the glue dissolves the plastic a little.

Experiment with glue "Crystal"

Perhaps with a thinner layer of glue the result would be better.

PVA

PVA-based glue is sold in any supermarket or office supply store. In its original form it is an opaque white liquid. But, when dry, it becomes almost transparent. The degree of transparency, as I understand it, depends on the purification of the glue. In general, most specialized clear glue for models is well-refined PVA. In the photo below you can see the degree of transparency of the PVA glue after drying.

Experiment with PVA glue

Actually, Futura is a floor polishing liquid, but it is used in modeling as a very fluid and opaque varnish. You can read more about Futura at this link. But in some cases it can also be used for gluing transparent parts. The gluing area must be dried for 24 hours.

There are certain difficulties in purchasing this “miracle liquid” in Russia, but I found a wonderful online store where you can buy “Futura” in 120 or 35 ml packaging. It may not be available, but the guys carry it. Monitor supplies. I recommend!

How to use model glue correctly

Do not pour a lot of liquid glue into the joint of parts, the result will not get better, but the likelihood that it will flow under your fingers or tweezers with which you hold the part, and they will leave an annoying imprint on the plastic, increases greatly.

If you accidentally spill glue on your model, do not try to wipe it off., you'll only make it worse! It’s better to let it dry well, and then carefully sand the area where the glue got in, in this case, the “destruction” will be minimal.

Make sure that liquid glue does not flow under the masking tape., he loves it and as a result, when you remove the tape, a surprise will await you and a section of “floating” plastic.

The place where the super glue is glued is quite fragile. A little force and the part flies off. Be careful. It is advisable to degrease the gluing area; it will hold much better.

Let the Futura bonded area dry for at least 12 hours. And even after this, the result will not be the same as if we glued with ordinary model glue.

I like both scenarios in this picture :)

In this article about glue for models, I am simply sharing my modest experience and will be glad to receive any comments and additions. Write comments!

Good day, dear users of my resource!

Dmitry Ignatichev is with you again - your guide in the world of scale modeling.

Often the life of a beginning modeler is full of surprises. And also many seemingly insoluble questions. Questions, questions, questions... What and how to do, how to cut the sprues, how to glue, how and with what to paint...

It's not easy to figure all this out. Especially if there are no modelers among your friends, there are no large-scale modeling clubs in your city, and there is very little time to search and study literature. Taking into account the fact that there is very little valuable information, and the Internet is filled with scattered discussions on all sorts of forums, things get really difficult :)) But... dear friends, don’t even think about quitting what you started. The matter must always be brought to its natural conclusion - to result .

Well, in turn, I will help you understand the science of scale modeling. And I dedicate my new material to solving such a problem as choosing a set of tools sufficient to create your first model(s). We will figure out what is necessary and essential to have in your arsenal at the initial stage of acquiring the skill of a modeler, and what will not be necessary at all.

In general, the arsenal of a model master is very extensive. And it can take up quite a significant amount of space. From a small cabinet in a personal room to an entire workshop in a private house or garage. Such instrumentation is similar to the workshops of great violin makers such as Amati and Stradivarius. Such things are perfectly depicted in the brilliant Soviet film “A Visit to the Minotaur.” And like any significant undertaking, such a number of tools are collected and purchased over a long period of time. Sometimes calculated in tens of years. But this is all the lot of true MASTERS who are in love with their work. Matter of LIFE.

But my dear reader, if you are at the very beginning of this path, such a number of tools are absolutely not required. Especially if you are not at all sure that you will do this for a long time.

Therefore, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the list of tools I have prepared for a novice modeler.

A BEGINNER'S TOOLKIT

MODELIST'S KNIFE

A model knife is perhaps the most important tool in your arsenal. Simply because it all begins with him. You will use a knife to separate the parts from the sprue. Cut off the burr. Clean up various types of defects. Nowadays there is a wide range of knives on sale, differing in length and thickness of the handle. Modern model knives have a collet clamp for the blade. These blades can be replaced quickly and easily. The fact is that replaceable blades are designed to perform highly specialized tasks and perform various types of work.

You can purchase either a knife separately or a whole complex consisting of the knife itself and a set of replacement blades. Everything is your choice. For starters, you can just buy a knife without replaceable blades. If there are knives from different manufacturers on sale, ask to hold the knife in your hands. The instrument should fit well in the hand and please her.

TWEEZERS

Here is another tool without which the work of a modeler will be extremely difficult. This is tweezers. It is necessary when working with small and Very small details. Only with the help of tweezers will you be able to install and glue tiny parts into the limited spaces of aircraft cabins, landing gear niches and others.

Tweezers are a modeller's friend

Tweezers are one of the most common modeling tools that can be purchased not only in model stores, but also in pharmacies and radio electronics stores. You can also purchase watchmaker's tweezers. It has thinner “jaws”, which allows you to work with high precision on small parts.

SANDPAPER

After separation from the sprue, all parts of the model must be cleaned of various types of defects. This could be various types of unevenness or burrs. After gluing different parts, it is also necessary to clean the joint. Of course, manufacturers are constantly improving the quality of their kits. But one way or another, sandpaper will be required in the work of a modeller for a very long time.

You can purchase sandpaper at any hardware or automotive store. Also, various types of nail files and needle files will be useful in your work. You can use needle files for grinding metal, resin, and not just plastic parts. The main feature of the needle file is its durability. It will last you much longer than any sandpaper or nail file.

But still, at the initial stage of work, sandpaper will do.

MODEL CLIPPERS

Removing parts from the sprue with a pattern knife can be a labor-intensive and, in some cases, dangerous task for a beginner. The knife does its job wonderfully in skillful hands, but it can ruin a lot for others. Therefore, at the beginning of your career, it is advisable to use pattern cutters to separate parts.

At the moment, almost every manufacturer of tools and scale models has model nippers in their assortment. They cope with their tasks perfectly, leaving behind smooth, clean edges and joints. It is advisable to purchase a high-quality and not cheap tool.

WORKING SURFACE

All your work on the model will involve cutting, sawing, and cutting out. It will be necessary to process parts made of plastic and other materials without fear of damaging the surface of the desktop. You will not be creating a model in a specialized room, but on your everyday desktop. Therefore, it is advisable to prepare a special work surface. This can be either a piece of regular chipboard or a specialized self-healing mat.

The cutting board is the chef's first assistant

It doesn't take up much space when folded. Lined with a graphic grid. Perfectly protects the table surface from cuts and tool slips.

MODEL GLUE

Often glue is not included in the model kit. It can only be found in some gift sets and publications. Therefore, it must be purchased separately. Available in different packaging options. Either in glass jars or in plastic bottles with a needle. There are 3 types of model adhesives, differing from each other in their operating principle.

I will glue everything - I will tie everything

The choice of adhesive used depends on personal preference and the specific work task. For example, I mainly use glue that dissolves the edges of the surfaces being joined. And then creating a seamless connection from it.

So we have our BEGINNER MODELIST’S TOOLKIT, which is quite modest in size and cost. Something like NAZ - Necessary Emergency Stock. As you progress in mastering the skill of large-scale modeling, you will begin to better understand the essence of the work being carried out. And you will begin to expand your tool arsenal. But this is still ahead...

In the meantime... DON'T DELAY, start assembling your first model. And all your questions will find practical application. And you yourself will begin to answer them. If you don’t know, ask. Write in the comments, or to my email - in the CONTACTS section.

P.S. Don't forget to like the article. After all, if she helped you, she will help another novice modeler. Best wishes. And...wonderful models to you.

23 Dec

If you are reading this text, then you are probably already potentially interested in starting to model cars in 1/24 scale. We have prepared a small educational program that will certainly be useful to a novice modeler.

If you have already decided on the car model, then go to the catalog and choose the set itself that you will assemble. It is worth remembering that the sets differ not only in the manufacturer, but also in the level of nesting of elements, detailing and quality of plastic.

For example, among all manufacturers of scale models, the best quality of materials and the best level of detail can be seen from the Japanese manufacturer Tamiya.

About the manufacturer

Tamiya is one of Japan's leading manufacturers of kit models and hobby products. Tamiya is a nationally recognized manufacturer that produces some of the best quality hobby products around the world. Products that Tamiya produces include radio-controlled R/C models, a collection of Mini 4WD construction cars, in-house production of chemicals and hobby supplies, as well as prefabricated models of cars, motorcycles, military equipment, aircraft and ships.

In our example, we will analyze the stages of building a model from a kit from the Japanese manufacturer Fujimi - Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 V Spec II

About the manufacturer

Fujimi Mokei is a Japanese model manufacturer based in Shizuoka. Fujimi produces plastic models of various vehicles, including aircraft, cars, ships, as well as various historical and fantasy miniatures.
In addition to model design kits, Fujimi produces accessories for its products: wheels for cars and items for creating dioramas.

Set contents

Set cover photo

Set contents

In total, the kit contains 9 sprues with the parts necessary to build the model. A set of decals is also included.

Most Fujimi kits don't come with masks for painting glass, so you'll need to have some masking tape on hand.
What is needed to build the model

1. Fujimi set
2. Any quick-drying (second), transparent or model glue. For example, glue from the series
3. Any aerosol paint, as well as stationery/model acrylic for painting interior elements and suspension.
4. Tools: scissors, wire cutters, needle file (for processing the edges of the part), tweezers (for working with small parts), masking tape.

Build process

The kit is assembled according to the illustrated “step to steps” instructions. Assembly and painting work can be done at home.

If you strictly follow the visual instructions, then assembling the first model will not cause an ounce of disappointment or misunderstanding. From step to step, you will watch how your model is built.
We also recommend watching a time-lapse video on assembling this set!

Have you decided to get into modeling, but don't even know where to start? In this article we will try to talk about the key nuances of the process, as well as give some tips for beginners that professionals should also refresh their memory of. First of all, we note that modeling requires enormous effort and a lot of time. Assembling models hastily means turning them from potentially perfect products into a pitiful semblance of a cheap Chinese knockoff. If you are ready to work hard to create a real work of art, welcome to the world of modeling! So let's get started.

Where does modeling begin?

Of course, with the purchase of the model itself. The catalog of our store contains a lot of kits for beginners and professional modelers. If you don’t understand anything about military equipment, choose a model that you just like and seems easiest for the first assembly. If you are interested in military equipment and are well versed in it, you will probably find in the catalog exactly the model that you have always dreamed of seeing in your collection. If the model of the desired equipment is not available, contact a consultant; it is quite possible that it will be delivered to you on an individual order.

So, the model has been chosen - it’s time to start choosing tools. What do we need? Absolutely everything that is sold in the store, but it is often not possible to buy everything at once, and to assemble one model you may not need the tools that are needed to assemble another. There is a joke among modellers: “Choose tools intuitively, you will still forget to buy the most important thing.” Therefore, we will draw your attention only to the key and most necessary tools and materials.

The first thing every modeler should buy is glue, and a professional one at that. Superglue and PVA definitely won't work. It is advisable to purchase several glues at once in order to learn to understand the difference between them already in the process of assembling the first model - it is better to take second, helium and classic model glue. Next, we purchase a primer, a needle file, and sandpaper (both coarse and fine grain). Now pay attention to paints and enamels - for starters, you can buy colors that match the scheme of your model. However, in the future you will need absolutely all the paints and enamels presented in our catalog, you can be sure of that.

Next, we move on to one of the main tools - brushes. It’s worth starting experiments from the very beginning, so buy a dozen brushes of different sizes, types, shapes and manufacturers at once. It may be more convenient for you to paint using an airbrush (spray) - if you have the money, you can buy that too. Don't forget to purchase a compressor for your airbrush. If you are not afraid of expenses, purchase all materials in the maximum variety. A novice modeler, like no one else, should conduct experiments and form his own style of assembly, priming, and painting.

Meet the model

As soon as you brought the model home, get ready for one of the most pleasant moments and hurry to lay out all the details on the table in front of you. It is at this time that you can plunge headlong into the wonderful world of modeling and feel all its charm. Carefully look at all the details presented, understand how creative, complex and at the same time exciting the assembly process will be. It is very important that in the process of getting acquainted with the details you correctly assess the scope of the upcoming work.

You are now completely ready to assemble your first model. Prepare the work surface, separate the parts from the sprues. Try attaching several parts to each other. Understand how difficult this process will be, feel its beauty. Perhaps this is where you should end your first acquaintance with the model - put the parts in a box and put it aside. The time has come to begin professional training and create a full-fledged work surface and modeller's workplace.

Creating a workplace

Assembling a good model requires proper preparation of the workplace. It is advisable to have, if not a separate office, then a separate desk. You can refurbish your existing workplace or desk. To do this, remove everything unnecessary from the surface and from the boxes; from now on here you will only be engaged in assembling models. Believe me, you will have to store it in and on the table and spend a lot of free time here, so moving things and tools from place to place is extremely inconvenient.

A special rug for modelers is spread on the table. If possible, give preference to A1 format material. We already lay out all the necessary tools on it. Remember that you are creating your own workplace, so you can independently determine their sequence, degree of significance and, in accordance with these parameters, place them on the table in any order. Next, we arrange paints, brushes and other materials-tools.

Getting ready for assembly

In our case, preparing for assembly involves the need to understand: many things that you previously thoughtlessly threw away will now probably be needed by you. First of all, start collecting on an industrial scale all kinds of wires and their trimmings, pieces of plastic, sticks, glass jars and even caps from beer and vodka bottles. Don’t be surprised - in the future they will be very convenient to use to create a palette of colors.

At the same time, let me prepare you a little psychologically. The fact is that very soon you will acquire a truly exciting hobby that will take up the lion's share of your free time. At the same time, most friends and family, for objective reasons, will not quite understand your passion for creating models. Try not to conflict with them and pay enough attention to your family and friends. Believe me, this hobby can be successfully combined with the opportunity to be a great son, friend, brother, husband, dad and colleague.

Purchase of an aftermarket

We invite you to sit down at the table again and study the features of the set you purchased. Look carefully at the instructions and the parts laid out in front of you. You may well find, and probably will, that many of them are either inaccurate, not well detailed, or simply not included in the set. That is why we suggest purchasing an additional detail kit (cockpit, photo-etching) in advance.

Working with afterlayout

Take a close look at the photo-etch kit you purchase and decide which design elements you will have to make yourself. We will not delve into the assembly process - there are instructions for this, and besides, the features of creating each new model are individual. Instead, let's note a few key nuances of the work that a beginner should definitely take into account and that a professional should not forget about. We will include the following points as such:

• Careful attitude to instructions. Following it is the key to successful assembly of the model;
• Multiple checks. Before work, look at how the parts fit on the drawings. If there are deficiencies, it is recommended to correct them immediately;
• Remember the numbering. When cutting parts from the sprue, especially small elements, try to remember their numbering so as not to get confused in the future;
• Detail the internal elements. Many modellers advise photographing the interior of a structure before final assembly;
• Be careful with small parts, it is almost impossible to find them on the floor - use boxes and crates for storage;
• Don't be afraid to spend time fixing a part. with defects visible to you - it will be much more difficult to correct an already assembled model;
• There is no need to be afraid of damage to the jointing during the grinding process., for example, primers - feel free to polish the surface, achieving its ideal condition;
• Experiment with tools: Remember that many household items can be useful in model making.

Remember also that the materials, paints, varnishes and enamels you use are completely safe for human health. The only thing you should be wary of is paints with very pungent odors. These, for example, include nitro paints. They are recommended to be used only when the hood is running, and in rooms where small children have access, they are usually not used at all.

Features of painting the model

Painting a model is a creative and at the same time complex process from a technical point of view. We have already described it in one of the articles posted on our website, so we will only note the points unknown to you.

Firstly, trust the manufacturers, but always check them. On various forums you can find messages about the discrepancy between the colors specified by the manufacturer and the actual shades of the equipment. Therefore, do not be lazy to check the original and choose the color scheme yourself.

Secondly, pay special attention to choosing the coloring option - some of them are presented in the instructions, some you will have to search on the Internet yourself. Make a choice in favor of the most complex design - only in this case will you be able to win your first “respect” as a modeler.

Third, always use a primer (of course, if you are not working with nitro paints). It will help not only reliably fasten the surface of the model and the layer of paint and varnish material, but also smooth out roughness, numerous irregularities and other flaws.

Fourth, secure the parts to be painted on the holders and never touch them with your hands - one awkward movement and all the work will have to be done from the very beginning.

Conclusion

Don't be afraid to experiment. We have to repeat this again and again. Modeling is a combination of creativity and scrupulous study of instructions. Only in the process of assembling models do you gain invaluable experience, which is reflected in your equipment and allows you to form its individual style. Listen to the advice of experienced modelers, but always check them in practice - no one can be considered the ultimate truth. Be creative, learn from your mistakes and create real masterpieces. And we, for our part, are happy to help you with wonderful models and tools of the highest quality, presented in an incredibly wide range.