Drawing up a pattern for the base of the dress. A simple construction of a pattern for the base of the bodice. French method. Ready-made dress patterns

So, I'm showing. Luckily, a men's shirt was found lying around, so she did everything like Ellochka Schukina - quickly and fearlessly, saying ho-ho :) I managed to keep the clasp, for ease of display. Naturally, she is on the male side, let this not bother anyone.
So the first picture is very nervous :) Everything is in creases from the wind (I have a photo studio on the balcony now), but it came together in the chest, the waist line is in place, and the freedom in the waist is quite satisfactory. I intentionally did not change anything in this place. It was interesting to see what the standard construction gives.

Back and side - sometimes worse, but this is fixable. Well, the shoulders look too big - I didn’t cut off the allowance, I wanted to first look at the depth of the armhole with the allowance.

These creases in red are my eternal headache and the result of a kinky and asymmetric figure. I deliberately left an allowance for the side back, because I was ready for this effect. And now I'll show you how I fix it.
Initially, it was sewn not by combining the cuts as usual, but with an offset by the size of the allowance along the side of the back.

The task is to align the side back. On the drawing, it would look like a side waist tuck is made only in front, and the back line is vertical from the armhole down. In this case, this distance is just equal to the 1st "norm"

After drawing a new line of the side seam, the excess must be put somewhere. Let this be an extra tuck.

Let's see what it gave us:

Much better, I think. And for a blouse or a semi-adjacent dress, I would have stopped at this degree of freedom. But, just for the sake of experiment, I also tried to take the excess to the center - as if I were building with a tap.

In the red circle - the result of the tuck without overstating the sides :) A good example, so to speak. The fit on the back suited and the side view became much better. There are little things left. If I was doing a real "thing", then, of course, I would do it with asymmetry in mind, and then everything would finally be fine.
But in general I liked it. Fast and believable enough.
Not a single animal was harmed during the shooting :) And this is for you to laugh - this is how a "tripod" performed by a woman who urgently needed it looks like :)) Fotik stood on top of a blue bowl and survived!

Py.Sy. the basis, I repeat, is a dress, designed for sewing on sleeves. If you need a greater fit, then the chest tuck should be slightly increased already in the process of modeling. Oh yes, I also made the tucks on the back longer than expected. I always make them longer so that there is no bag on the back.

Do you want to learn how to sew? IT IS TIME TO TAKE THIS NEW FRONTIER. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns.
We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new easy way (I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for constructing a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all sorts of dresses, tops and tunics.

No - I will not give you a single ready-made pattern - I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character lies in the fact ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me, it is.

Yes - Sewing is very easy and simple. Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes yourself.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricacies of the numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WON'T TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch fear and make a girl doubt her own abilities, who really wants to make a dress- But I was not very friendly in my school years with geometry and drawing. Even I - who loves both of these school subjects - beat around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long does it take to draw this, and you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in the letters ... ".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you can see a piece of it from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering and design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

No obscure formulas
No messy calculations.
And without the letter-number cobweb.

Well, how? Have I removed a bit of your concerns?

I now relax - we will not start drawing right now. To begin with, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get acquainted, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, it is a cast from your body. This is your personal imprint. Any thing sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit perfectly on YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All-all models of dresses - are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove to you with an example. Even on three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits perfectly on the figure). Dress made according to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual pattern-base. You see, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any, any) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free topic.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day the fashion designer thought...“But what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - fig. below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping opposite triangles (red outlines - fig. below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful.

What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a base pattern.

And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just a lot of fantasy.

And another fashion designer thought: “But what if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the line of the shoulder longer so that it hangs on the arm. And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And very simple.

You can do that too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist.

That is why I don't want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (such as “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point ...” - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you chuechka. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. And learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any, even intricately tailored, dress.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk along the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - let's find out what each line serves for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way ..

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel the joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the wise man said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us.

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - a base pattern. Tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and well-known simple pattern - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what are these halves for, and where to apply them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful specimen - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both half of the back and half of the front. So to speak - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in the Potnovsky language, the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these very shelves of the front and back. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two obscure words: TRUCK And ARMHOLE.

Of course, you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, get acquainted - PROYMA.

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size an armhole that fits you—when the armhole doesn't pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains acceptable minimum armhole size. You can model the armhole to your taste, any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be less than on the base pattern. That is, an armhole on a pattern basis - These are the limits beyond which your imagination should not intercede.

Your model armhole can be arbitrarily larger - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. Here is a rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the tucks.

BACK darts- shoulder tuck + waist tuck.

Here in the picture above, I wrote everything about the undercuts of the back - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder tuck on this dress. And on many dresses, too, it is not. Because for convenience and beauty, this tuck is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper. That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the tuck. And the extra fabric cut off in a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in..

Also, darts are optional if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Next, let's meet… DARK HALF FRONT.

Oh, you could write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain it more clearly - what it is for and what laws it lives by. I thought and thought ... and came up with.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, the front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. The tuck on the shoulder of the front gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example - this flat cardboard circle, with the help of a tuck, will now become convex.

And here is how the chest tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You noticed that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the point of the tuck. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw a tuck for the chest, the tip of our tuck will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you measured a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely warped on your chest - this is because the tuck in the dress was directed with its tip past top of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. Not under your breast shape, this product was cut at the factory.

But that is not all,

what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest tuck is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. It's made for beauty. The tuck on the shoulder is more conspicuous, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest tuck on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the tuck from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest tuck from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?)))

It's only the beginning…

We continue to walk along the pattern and now get acquainted with the lines. horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the line of the chest. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We'll sew it with you. Don't even hesitate)

The chest line is the most wonderful line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate it when drawing a base pattern, because:

We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck of the back on the chest line.
We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
We know that the shoulder tuck is the front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And for now, I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the line of the chest (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these alphanumeric dots).

WAISTLINE

We are guided by this line when we draw waist tucks - both on the details of the front and on the details of the back. The widest point of the tuck is exactly at the waist line.

HIPS LINE

Do you know why drawing a base pattern is easy and simple? Now you will understand.

WHY TO DRAW A PATTERN BASE IS EASY AND SIMPLE

I want to draw your attention to 2 remarkable points.

Great Moment #1 - the whole pattern is created inside the rectangle (I filled it with pink to make it clear)

Great Moment #2 - the most time-consuming is drawing the upper part of the pattern - where the neck is, and the shoulder line, and tucks, and armholes.

And to make it morally easier for you to draw, I divided the upper part of the pattern into three simple zones. In each zone we will draw 2-3 simple lines - and that's it - the upper part is ready.

As you can see, if you divide seemingly difficult work into 3 parts, each of the 3 parts does not seem difficult by itself. As a result, you will not notice how everything has already been drawn.

Everything is simple- first we draw a large rectangle, then we divide its upper part into three zones. In each zone, draw 2-3 lines. And all that remains is to go down and draw the waist darts, and the line of the hips. Ha! Delov something!

Do you feel now how easy it is? Draw your first real base pattern.

Well then, let's get started. And we will draw all this in 20 minutes. Set a timer.

WE START TO DRAW A PATTERN BASIS - WE TAKE MEASURES.

WE TAKE MEASURES

The height of the future product (from the cervical vertebra to the bottom of the hem of the dress)

Half bust - (chest circumference divided by 2)

Center chest measurement - (distance between the peaks of the chest) in your regular bra.

Back Width- (at the level of the middle of the shoulder blades - from hand to hand)

Back lengths(from neck to waist)

Shoulder length- (from the side point at the base of the neck - to the shoulder joint)

Half neck- (neck girth divided by 2) the tape passes at the base of the neck without squeezing it

Semi circumference of the hips - (hip circumference divided by 2)

Half waist - (waist circumference divided by 2)

We know how to shoot all these girths of the chest, waist, hips and neck.

And for taking other measurements, I give you an indicative picture below:

STEP ONE- Draw a rectangle.

Rectangle Height - this is the height of the future product from the cervical vertebra to the bottom of the future dress

Rectangle Width - half bust + a few cm for a loose fit.

How much you need to add these very centimeters for free adhesion, now we'll figure it out.

Conventionally, there are 4 degrees of fitting a sheath dress:

Close-fitting dress silhouette

adjoining silhouette

Semi-adjacent silhouette

Straight silhouette

If you need close-fitting silhouette - then choose the fabric that has elastic fibers, that is, it stretches a little (not like a stretch, but slightly) - and then THE SUPPLEMENT FOR FITTING FREEDOM MAY BE ABSENT AT ALL - that is, the width of the pattern will be equal to the half-girth of your chest.

If you are sewing a dress from an ordinary non-stretch fabric, then it will not work to stick it to the curves of your body at all - and the maximum that we can do is to cut out adjoining silhouette . And then the SURPRISE FOR THE FREEDOM OF FITTING WILL BE - 3 CM. These three centimeters will need to be evenly distributed between the back area, the armhole area and the chest area. That is, when we now divide the pattern into 3 zones - and we will calculate and measure their width - then we will simply add an additional 1 cm to the width of each of the zones - and that's it.

If you need a dress semi-adjacent silhouette (one that hides the “flaws” of the figure) - then the SUPPLEMENT FOR FITTING FREEDOM will be 4-5 cm. (1 cm will go to the back area, 1.5 cm to the armhole area, the rest automatically falls into the chest area.

And if we need a base pattern for a dress straight silhouette - then add 6-7 cm.

STEP TWO -we zone the upper part of the rectangle into three zones: the back zone, the armhole zone, the chest zone.

The width of the back area is a measure of the width of the back divided by 2

The width of the armhole zone is the half-girth of the chest: 4 + 2 cm

The width of the chest area is what remains.

ATTENTION (!!!) If you made an allowance for freedom of fit at the very beginning, do not forget to add a part of this allowance to each zone (as I described a little higher in the article).

STEP THREE - draw 2 lines in the back area - the neck line + the shoulder line.

neckline - lies on a rectangle eand only its extreme tip is raised up.

What you need to know:
neck width = 1/3 semi-circle. neck + 0.5 cm
the height of the edge of the neck above the rectangle = 1/10 of the semicircumference of the neck + 0.8 cm

What do we have to do:

So we divide the half-girth of the neck by 3 and add 0.5 cm. We measure this distance on the upper line to the left. This we found the width of the neck, marked with a dot.

Now this point must be raised higher above the rectangle. Divide the half-girth of the neck by 10 + 0.8 cm - and raise the point by the resulting figure.

We all found the edge of the neck - now we need to draw a smooth corner. This can be done by hand.

shoulder line

it goes slightly obliquely - from the edge of the neck and slightly protrudes beyond the border of the back zone.

What you need to know:
Shoulder line length = shoulder length measurement + 1.6 cm for the tuck.
The slope of the shoulder line - for normal shoulders 2.5 (for high 1.5 cm, for sloping 3.5 cm) - we mark the level of inclination on the side line of the back zone (measure from top to bottom).

What do we have to do.

We figured out what type our shoulders are. We measured the desired value on the side line of the back zone (2.5, 1.5 or 3.5)

We drew a line - from the edge of the neck to the marked level of inclination.

And on this line we measure the length of the shoulder + 1.6 cm for the tuck. As a result, the line lengthened slightly and went beyond the back zone.

Back tuck:

What you need to know:
The tuck is 4 cm from the edge of the neck
The depth of the tuck is 6 cm (that is, it goes down by 6 cm)
The tuck width is always 1.6 cm
The first side of the tuck falls perpendicularly, and the second is deflected to the side.
Both sides of the tuck are equal in length, that is, equal to 6 cm

What do we have to do(see picture) - measured 4 cm from the edge of the neck (put a thick dot) and measured 1.6 cm further for the tuck (put a dot) - these are the edges of our tuck.

Now we lowered down the perpendicular by 6 cm, then went up to the other edge of the tuck. And they also rose evenly by 6 cm. Yes, we will rise a little above the shoulder line. But it is important for us that the sides of the tuck are the same length - after all, we will sew them together (close the tuck) - and they must match in length. If they do not match in length, the shoulder line will turn out to be broken after closing the tuck.

STEP FOUR- we find the line of the chest and in the armhole area we draw the armhole of the back and the armhole of the front.

Back armhole line

What you need to know:
The armhole line descends evenly to the chest line.
And the height of the armhole of the back is always = 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest + 7 cm
The extreme (axillary) point of the armhole line is located exactly in the middle of the armhole zone (on the chest line).
Top 2/3 of armhole height goes almost straight down
The lower 1/3 of its height + 2 cm - the armhole bends to the side towards the midpoint of the armhole zone.

Draw the line of the chest

We find the height of the armhole. It is equal to = half-girth of the chest: 4 + 7 cm. The armhole of just such a height will be optimal for your arm, will not cut into the armpit, or pull the shoulder.

We found this value - and now we measure this distance down from the edge of the shoulder. Measured and marked.

We have now found not only the lower edge of the armhole - we have now automatically found the level of the chest line. This very important line is found only in this way. Its level is always the size of the armhole, measured down from the shoulder.

And to draw the chest line exactly horizontally. It is necessary to measure with a centimeter the distance from this point to the upper edge of the square of our pattern. And then measure the resulting value on both sides of the pattern - slap the points - and connect them with a horizontal line.

We draw the line of the armhole of the back.

Now we will draw the armhole line of the back.

The lower extreme (axillary) point of the armhole is always located in the middle of the armhole zone on the chest line. They measured the armhole zone with a centimeter - found the middle - slapped a point.

The armhole line starts from the edge of the shoulder, goes down and starts its bend to the side only at the level of 1/3 of its height + 2 cm. We measure this distance from the chest line. That is, the height of the armhole: 3 + 2 cm = the distance from the chest line, where the armhole begins its bend towards the axillary point. But to be honest, I don’t always remember about these additional 2 cm and always draw a bend by eye, by hand - I thin out about 1/3 and start rounding from it.

armhole front line

What you need to know:
The height of the armhole in front is equal to the half-circumference of the chest: 4 + 5 cm
The armhole has 2 bends:
The top bend is deflected away from the border of the armhole line 1/10 bust measurements
Lower bend - begins at the level of 1/3 of the height of the armhole from the chest line

What do we have to do:

We find the level of the upper bend of the armhole - the half-girth of the chest: 4 + 5 cm - we spank the point. Now this point must be moved to the left by a distance equal to = half chest circumference: 10.

Now we find the level of the bend of the armhole to the armpit - the height of the armhole: 3. We measure this distance on the side line of the armhole zone - we spank the point.

And we also have that same axillary point. We get only three points. Now through these three points we draw a smooth line of the armhole.

STEP FIVE– WE DRAW THE LINES OF THE BREAST ZONE (neck, shoulder and chest tuck)

Neckline

What you need to know:
The width and neckline of the front is the same as that of the neckline of the back = neck circumference: 3 + 0.5 cm
The depth of the neck is equal to the semi-circumference of the neck: 10 + 2 cm
Neck edge height measured from chest line and equal to = bust: 2 + 3.5 (or + 2 cm for girls)
The diagonal depth of the neckline is = 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 1 cm

What do we have to do:

We find neck width(half circumference of the neck: 3 + 0.5 cm) - measure it from the corner of the pattern to the left - slap the point.

We find neck depth(half circumference of the neck: 10 + 2 cm) - measure it from the corner of the pattern down - slap the point.

Now lift the edge of the neck- it should be above the chest line at a distance equal to (half-girth of the chest: 2 + 3.5 cm (or for girls + 2 cm).

We measure this distance upwards from the chest line - and to this level we raise the edge of the neck.

Now, to make it more convenient for us to draw the correct rounded bend of our neckline, we measure the diagonal size of our neckline. It is measured with a centimeter tape from an imaginary intersection of the continuation of the edge of the pattern and the level of the upper point of the neck (light green lines in the figure).

Front shoulder line

- you don't need to know anything. Here, in general, everything is simple - we connect the edge of the front neck and the upper edge of the front armhole - the gray line in the figure.

Breast tuck.

What you need to know:
The tip of the chest tuck reaches the chest line.
The tip of the chest tuck should exactly match the top of the chest (this is where the measurement of the center of the chest comes in handy).
The width of the tuck is found empirically, which is described below.

What do we have to do:

We find the top of the chest on our pattern. To do this, on the chest line from the right edge of the pattern, measure half the measurement of the center of the chest + 1 cm. Only half, because we have only half of the front shelf on the pattern.

We put a point - and from it we draw a perpendicular straight line straight up - to the line of the shoulder. Here we have just determined the location of the chest tuck, so that its tip is directed exactly at the top of our chest. The chest fits perfectly into the bulge of the dress - without distortions.

Now we need to draw the second side of the tuck - BUT for this we need to know its width.

There are no formulas here. The width of the tuck is learned empirically. For this we need

1.) Know the measurement of your shoulder length (we took this measurement at the very beginning)

2.) Measure the length of the shoulder line on the pattern with a centimeter.

3.) Compare these values with each other.

4.) The difference in values will be the width of our tuck. In flat-chested children, this difference is zero, which means that the width of the tuck is also zero. That is, it does not exist. Well, that’s right, little girls don’t even have breasts - why do they need a tuck.

5.) The found width and measure to the left of the edge of the tuck. We mark with a dot. And from this second point we draw a line down to the tip of our tuck. Ops! And the tuck is almost ready.

6.) It remains only to make both sides of the tuck the same length. We measure the first side of the tuck. And we measure the same distance on the other side of the tuck. So that they are the same and coincide with each other when we close this tuck.

7.) The line of the shoulder turned out to be a little broken (raised after the tuck). But this is how it should be. After closing the tuck, it will lower and be perfectly flat.

WE HAVE DONE WITH THE TOP OF THE PATTERN. URAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

It remains to separate the back shelf from the waist shelf. Then find the waist line and the hip line. On the waist line, draw a side bend and 2 waist tucks (on the back and front). On the hip line, draw the hem extension to the sides.

Let's do this quickly and that's all - it will be possible to open a bar with drinks and celebrate this business.

Well, let's get started...

STEP SIX - we divide the pattern into a back shelf and a front shelf - that is, into the right and left sides.

What you need to know:
Side seam line - divides the pattern into a back shelf and a front shelf.
The line of the side seam does not pass in the middle, but shifts towards the back (you need to divide the width of the armhole zone into 3 identical parts with two points - and just through the left point, which is closer to the back) and the side line will pass)

What do we have to do:

We measure the width of the armhole zone. We divide it into 3 identical segments - two points. And through the left point and draw a vertical line. This will be the side line of our shelves (back and front).

STEP SEVEN - draw a waist line and a hip line.

What you need to know.
The waist line is below the cervical vertebrae at a distance equal to the measurement of the length of the back.
The hip line is below the waist line at a distance equal to half the measurement of the length of the back.
Waist line and hip line - has a slight deflection (1.5 cm) on the half of the front (this deflection is necessary for the roundness of the tummy, which even the thinnest have).

What do we have to do.

We measure the level of the waist line - from the top of the pattern down we measure back length measurement- draw a line.

We measure the level of the hip line - from the waist line we measure down half back measurement- draw a line.

On the right side of the pattern, we mark points that are 1.5 cm below the lines - we bend the line to this point (as shown in the figure).

STEP EIGHT - draw the side bends of the front and back + waist darts in front and back.

Calculate the width of the tucks and side bends

What you need to know:
Width of the side bend in front = width of the side bend of the back = width of the back waist tuck = width of the front waist tuck. That is, in the process of fitting the dress, we remove the same amount of excess fabric in the side bends and in the darts.
To find out the width of a tuck or bend. You need to know the amount of excess fabric, the very one that should be cut off in the side bend or hidden in the tuck. And divide this total amount of excess fabric by 4 (each of these 4 pieces will go into its own tuck or into its side bend). Means…
Dart width (or side fold) = excess fabric: 4
Amount of excess fabric = pattern width minus half waist.
A little confusing, but now I will show everything with a specific example ....

What do we have to do.

1.) We know the width of the pattern (remember it is equal to the bust + 6 cm)

2.) We know the semi-circumference of the waist (we took measurements at the very beginning)

3.) From the width of the pattern, we subtract the half-girth of the waist and additionally subtract 2 cm.

4.) The resulting figure is the amount of excess fabric that will go into the side bend or into the darts.

5.) Width of one tuck (or side bend) = amount of excess fabric: 4.

For example, the width of my pattern is 52 cm, and the half-girth of my waist is 36 cm.

The amount of excess fabric in the waist area will be 52 - 36 - 2 \u003d 14 cm.

It is this amount of fabric that should be partially cut off on the side bend of my pattern, partially hidden inside the front and back darts.

On the pattern there are 2 bends (at the sidewall of the front and at the side of the back) and 2 tucks (one at the front, one at the back).

So my excess of 14 cm should be evenly distributed between all these four elements. That is, 14 cm: 4 \u003d 3.5 cm.

That is, 3.5 cm will be the back tuck width + 3.5 cm will be the front tuck width + 3.5 cm will go into the bend of the back side line + 3.5 cm will go into the lateral bend of the front line.

Now it’s clear how to figure out the width of the darts and bends.

We can draw the side bends right away - we measure in one size (in my case, 3.5 cm) on both sides of the midline:

And in order to draw waist tucks on the back and front, you also need to find their correct location on the pattern.

We draw a waist tuck in the back.

What you need to know:
The central axis of the back waist tuck runs in the middle of the back area. That is, it is located from the left edge of the pattern at a distance equal to = back width measurement: 4
The upper top of the back waist tuck is located just on the chest line (where the axis crosses this line)
The lower top of the waist tuck of the back does not reach the hip line by 4 cm.

What do we have to do:

First, let's draw the center line of the tuck - that is, a straight line that will indicate the center of the tuck. On this centerline will be the tops of the tuck.

The axial line of the back waist tuck runs exactly in the middle of the back area.

That is, you can simply measure the width of the back area and find its middle.

Or measure from the edge of the shelf to the right a value equal to = back width measurement: 4.

We find the tops (sharp tips) of the tuck: The upper peak lies on the line of the chest, where it is crossed by the axis of the tuck. The lower one lies on the axis, at a distance of 4 cm from the hip line.

Now we draw a tuck: on the waistline on both sides of the axis, we measure half the width of the tuck. And from these points we draw lines to the top of the tuck and to the bottom of the tuck..

Waist tuck in front.

What you need to know:
Waist tuck in front - lies on the same axis as the chest tuck. That is, the axis of the tuck is also located at a distance equal to = half the measurement of the center of the chest + 1 cm
The vertices of the waist are on the line of its axis: the upper apex does not reach 4 cm to the chest line, the lower apex does not reach 4 cm to the hip line.

What we do:

We find the axis of the waist tuck in front - either we continue down the line of the tuck of the chest, or we measure from the right edge of the pattern a distance equal to = half the measurement of the center of the chest + 1 cm.

We measure this distance along the line of the chest and along the line of the hips - we put the points and connect them and get the axis of the tuck.

On the axis we mark the peaks of the waist tuck in front - the upper peak does not reach 4 cm to the chest line, the lower peak does not reach 4 cm to the hip line.

On the waist line on both sides of the axis, we measure half the width of the tuck - and from these points we draw lines down and up to the tops of the tuck.

STEP NINE - draw an expansion in the hips and a smooth roundness of the bottom of the product.

What you need to know:
Hem dress expands in the area of the hip line by 1.5 cm.
And if you want a slightly expanded hem, then also make an extension on the bottom line of the product another 1.5 cm(that is, in total, the bottom of the hem will expand by 3 cm).
Anyway, when trying on, you will see the optimal width of the hem and you yourself will sew in the side seam under the hip line if you want to narrow the hem.
The bottom of the product also has a slight convexity (by 1.5 cm) to the edge of the front and back shelves.

What we do:

On the line, we measure 1.5 cm on both sides of the side line of the shelves (we put dots).

On the bottom line of the pattern, we also measure 1.5 cm in both directions (or 3 cm if we want a slightly expanded hem)

We connect these points with a smooth line, drawing the side lines of the hem of the front and back. The side lines of the hem of the front and back are drawn (as you noticed) overlapping each other - crossing each other. Then, after making copies from the base pattern, we cut out the back shelf separately, the front shelf separately, that is, we will separate these halves, leaving each of them with its own outline of the hem.

Now for the curved bottom line of the product - we draw points 1.5 cm lower than the bottom corners of the pattern. We connect these points with smooth lines to the extreme side points of the hem.

Done, fellow girls! You and I, in a sober mind and memory, have just made a base pattern !!! And at the same time, they never even turned off the brain and no abr-kadabr with letters-numbers.

Moreover - you did not just draw under my pointer - but you understood what is hidden behind each line. And this is a little thing - oh, how it will come in handy for you when modeling. And we will moderate with you - all sorts of things and with pleasure, and also with full consciousness of what is being done and why.

Learn to think and turn on the brain, and you will be able to model what you like without waiting for my tutorial articles.

And we will begin to sew according to the pattern-base of TOPS.

You ask: “Hey, why not just dresses?”. I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle “Sew tops and T-shirts - quickly and easily.” So to be continued))) Let's go….

Good luck with your sewing!

Olga Klishevskaya, specially for the site “Women's conversations“.

I think you will be interested:

46 comments were left for the entry.


	Where can I get the sleeve pattern?

Every girl or woman wants to look attractive. The first thing that catches your eye is the women's outfit. Shops are bursting with a variety of clothing items, and yet finding the perfect fit is not an easy task. You can order from a seamstress, but it will not be cheap. In this case, the way out is to make clothes with your own hands. Only the woman herself knows all her whims and features of her figure. Therefore, it will be very useful for her to learn how to make a pattern for a dress.

Why classic

To be able to combine different elements of clothing in an image is a real art. A well-chosen outfit emphasizes all the advantages and skillfully hides the flaws. The variety of clothing has reached such a peak that it is difficult not to get confused. Dozens of styles, hundreds of shades, various materials. How not to drown in all this diversity and choose really something of your own? Each woman has an individual approach, her own chip, which is present in the style. And yet there is something in common in the wardrobe of every representative of the beautiful part of humanity. Classic, in other words. Almost every woman has a pencil skirt, blouse and sheath dress in her wardrobe. The latter will be discussed.

The sheath dress sits on the figure, it is rarely decorated with catchy fragments. This is exactly what makes it special. The dress seems to say: “I don’t just decorate a woman, this woman decorates me.”

The simplicity of the dress is its advantage. Yes, and making it with your own hands is much easier than you might think. No need to think long about how to build a dress pattern. For beginner seamstresses or just for creative people, there is already a detailed description of all the stages and schemes.

Fitted dress

The first step before starting to build a pattern is to take measurements. To do this, you will need 2 measuring tapes, a long elastic band for clothes and 2 rulers.

Although you need to take quite a lot of measurements, you should not be afraid and give up your plan. The more precise measurements are taken, the better the dress will fit. First you need to determine all the lines of the future design:

For convenience, measurements can be recorded in a table, where the name of the measurement will be in the left column, and the measurement itself in the right column. For example:

Required measurements

The full name of the place of measurement should be written only in the table; on the pattern itself, it is reduced to a few letters so as not to interfere with the construction. So, the necessary measures:

Breast ratio (Kg). Use a tape measure to measure your full bust circumference and divide by 20.
Waist (From). Tie the elastic tightly around the waist. Lean in all directions, then the elastic itself will find the narrowest place on the body - the waistline. With a measuring tape on an elastic band, measure From. Do not remove the rubber yet.
The length of the back from the 7th cervical vertebra to the waist (Dst 7) - along the back is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra to the waist line, excluding the bulge of the shoulder blades.
Back length from waist (Dst). Measured from the point of intersection of the base of the neck and the shoulder seam, vertically down to the waist line.

Front length to waist (Dpt). Measure from the same point as Dst, across the most prominent part of the chest.
Mass of the breast (Mg) is the degree of convexity of the breast, which is measured by a line from the most convex part to the overlying beginning of the mammary glands.
Shoulder Width (Shp) - measured from the point of the base of the neck to the edge of the shoulder along the seam line.
Shoulder height (Vp). Rest one ruler with the beginning at the base of the neck and place it parallel to the ground, the second - perpendicular to the first, put the beginning at the end of the shoulder. The distance from the edge of the shoulder along the upper ruler is Vp.

Side height (Wb). Measure the distance from the armpit to the waist line along the side seam.
Chest height (Vg). Measure from the point of the base of the neck down to the protruding part of the chest.
The center of the chest (Cg) is the distance between the two most protruding parts of the breasts. It should be noted that the measurement should not be done from the center to the center, but rather to capture the areola a little more.

Back width (Ws). Measure the distance along the back from one armpit to another, divide the resulting value by 2.
Chest width (Wh). Do the same as for Shs, only on the front.
The volume of the hand (Op). Arm circumference near the armpit.
Arm length to the elbow (DRL). Sleeve length from shoulder joint to elbow.
Sleeve length (DR) is the distance from the shoulder to the wrist.
Hip coefficient (Kb). Measure the circumference of the hips at the most convex parts and divide by 20.

The darts for the top of the dress can be built using the above measurements, but for the bottom they need to be measured separately. Darts have their own length (H) and depth (L).

Measurements are taken from three conditional lines: side, front and back lines.

To measure side tuck (HbLb), you need to rest one ruler to the side at waist level parallel to the floor, and attach the beginning of the second to the most protruding point of the thigh as shown in the figure below:

Do the same with the other two darts (front and back): the ruler at the waist intersects with the ruler at the most convex part of the abdomen or hips. Record both values of the rulers from their beginning. For example (in centimeters): Hb=25, Lb=5; Hp=11, Lp=3; Hz=18, Lz=7.

Building a pattern

To build a pattern, you need to take 8 steps:

Build the upper back;
Extend down the back pattern for the skirt;
Build the top of the shelf;
Extend the shelf for the skirt;
Make an addition to the general pattern;
Close darts;
Build a sleeve;
Connect the sleeve with the pattern.

It seems that such an idea is not so easy, how to make a pattern for a dress. Step by step construction will greatly facilitate the task. It is like a children's game in which some animal or toy is drawn by cells. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions, and then all the drawings themselves will add up correctly.

So, to build a pattern, you will need a lot of graph paper, a pattern, a ruler, a pencil, and adhesive tape.

Now we will analyze in detail how to quickly build a base pattern for a dress point by point in 8 steps.

Product back

On graph paper, stepping back a little from the left edge, draw a vertical line - measure Dst7. From above, from the beginning of the drawn line, go down to a segment equal to 1/2 from Kg and put point A9. From it to the right, draw a segment that is equal to 1.5 Kg, and put a point 1. Vertically upward from point 1, rise 1/2 from Kg and put point A8. Using the template, draw a neck line from A8 to A9, you can do it yourself.

From A8, go down vertically to Dst and draw a horizontal straight line through this point - this is the waist line (line T). From A8 to the right, retreat 2.5 Kg and descend to Vp. From A8 through the bottom of Vp draw Shp, its end is the point Pzad. From point 1, retreat 3.5 Kg down, from the point formed to the right, measure the distance of 2.25 Kg (+1/2 Kg - individually) and put point P6. Measure the distance X vertically from P6 to Shp. Write it down. From P6 go down by 1/2 Kg \u003d t. S.

Dart. From A8 to the right along Shs, retreat 1.5 / 2 Kg (received point V1) and lower by H = 2 Kg - this is the height of the tuck. Set aside a depth equal to 3/4 Kg to the right of the upper point H (strictly horizontally, not along the Shp line). Connect the resulting point (V2) to the lower end of H. Then, from the point Pzad, strictly horizontally set aside a length of 3/4 Kg, the extreme point Pz 'obtained, connect it to V2. This is done so that when the tuck is closed, the length of the shoulder does not decrease.

Connect the points Pz ’and S with a line. Divide the line in half and, as it were, retreat 0.3-0.5 mm inside the pattern (t. N). Extend the line from P6 down to the waist (= p. T6). From T6 to the right, retreat 1.5 Kg \u003d t. T5, from it On Wb draw a segment upwards (subtracting 1.5-2.5 cm from the measurement by “understatement”) = t. P5. Draw a perpendicular to the line P6P5. From the resulting angle, diagonally upwards and to the right, construct a segment equal to 1.3 / 2 Kg \u003d m. F.

With a pattern, draw a bend through the points Pz '-N-F-P5 - the line of the armhole.

Skirt from the waist

First you need to form waist tucks. They come from skirt measurements.

The volume of the waist along the back is calculated by the formula: Ots \u003d 5 * Kb - Lz - Lb / 2. This value should be obtained when closing all waist darts. On the current pattern, the waist line is slightly wider. Subtract Ots from the length of the waistline, and the resulting value is the sum of all future tucks. For example: Ots \u003d 5 * 5 - 3 - 6/2 \u003d 19 cm; the waist length on the pattern is 27 cm. Then 27 - 19 \u003d 8 cm is an extra volume. The excess value must be scattered over the tucks in this way:

Cut off the outermost darts. From the formed lateral edge, go down to Hb and draw Lb to the right. Connect Lb and the edge of the waist. Starting from point T6, go down to Hz, connect the lines of the tuck. From the undercuts of point T8, lower two lines to the end of the pattern, || each other.

Shelf cut

The drawing will be drawn to the right. Stepping back a little from the left edge, draw a line vertically. Departing from its beginning 1.5 Kg, put point A1. From A1 to the right 1.5 Kg = v.2. From point 2 up 1.5 Kg = point A2. Connect using the pattern A1 and A2.

From A2 down measure Dpt, draw a waist line through its end. From point 2 down Kg, draw horizontally through this point from the line A1T1 Shg \u003d P4. From P4 upwards, draw a segment equal to X - 1.5 / 2 Kg.

From A2 through the upper end of the line X - 1.5 / 2 Kg, draw Shp \u003d end point Pp.

From A2 down Vg, through the formed point from A1T1 draw Shg \u003d t.G3. Connect G3 and P4 with a segment. Find its center, from which draw a perpendicular with a length equal to Mg / 2. Through the other end of the perpendicular from point G3, draw a line G3P4′, equal to G3P4. From P4′ down draw a perpendicular to the waist = t.T4. From T4 to the right, retreat Kg = t.T5. From T5 climb to Wb (subtracting the same understatement as on the back) = point P5. From P5 retreat to the left by 1.5 / 2 Kg and up by Kg / 2 = m. Z. From P4 go down by Kg / 2 = t.M.

Next, it is worth closing the tuck P4G3P4 ′. After that, Connect the line t.M and Pp. Find the middle of the segment, retreat 0.3 mm from it inside the pattern (point N). Using the template, draw an armhole line through the points Pp-N-Z-P5.

Front extension

It is done in the same way as in paragraph 2, only it is calculated by the formula: Ops \u003d 5 * Kb - Lp - Lb / 2.

The most extreme tuck is easy to remove. From the lateral edge, go down to Nb and step back to the side Lb. Connect Lb and the edge of the waist. From t.T2 go down to Hp, draw the edges of the tuck. From the cutout on T4, draw two parallels to the end of the pattern, as shown below.

Volume addition

To prevent the dress from sitting too tight, you need to make it a little looser. Increase the armhole line by 0.2 cm, gradually increase from P5 to the waist from 0.5 to 1 cm, down the skirt - by 0.5 cm. Now you can cut out the pattern.

It is better to close the darts inward, you can use adhesive tape so that they do not straighten out.

Sleeve scheme

Choose your sleeve width. A sleeve will look harmonious, in which the degree of increase in freedom \u003d double the understatement of the armhole.

To build a sleeve, you need to measure the total length of the armhole of the pattern and divide the value by 3 (value \u003d O1O). Build a vertical segment O1O, the pattern will go down and to the sides.

Horizontally through t.O draw Shr. Divide into 4 equal parts. From the 2 central parts raise a perpendicular equal to 1/4 Fr. Connect with a line P4-P6. Set aside the value of 3/8Kg from P4.

From P5zad, set aside a segment equal to 1 / 2Kg \u003d t.P5zad '. Smoothly connect the points P5p-P4'-O1-P6-P5zad'. From O1 down to Drl. Set aside 2.75 Kg = t.Q1 to the left, 3.25 Kg = t.Y1 to the right. From the middle of the last segment, take tucks equal to 1/4Kg, as shown in the figure. From O1 down to Dr. To the left - 2.5 Kg = t.Q2, to the right - 2 Kg = t.Y2. From Y2 descend by Kg/2. Find the middle of the left side, connect to the point.

Attach the sleeve to the dress, make sure that the line of the armhole matches, in case of a slight mismatch, correct it. Now you can cut the dress.

Children's outfit

The same clothes for mother and daughter came into fashion. Indeed, such images look very harmonious. If a woman has already decided to cut a dress for herself, then she can also please her little daughter by buying a little more fabric.

Parameter measurement

For a girl, sewing a dress will be much easier. Here, you can take an ordinary T-shirt as a basis and take measurements from it, such as the length of the shoulder and the neck. If in doubt, then some measurements should be taken from the child:

Height;
Half bust.

Choose the length of the product yourself. A1A2 - half-girth of the chest + 6 cm. G1G2 is equal to A1A2 / 4 + 7 cm - this is the length of the product to the armpits.

The neckline and armhole lines are best guided with a pattern.

Attention, only TODAY!

Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing clothes for your kids, the fear of the pioneer has passed. SO IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new easy way (I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for constructing a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all sorts of dresses, tops and tunics.

Yes - Sewing is very easy and simple. Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes yourself.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricacies of the numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WON'T TAKE YOU HERE:

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you can see a piece of it from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering and design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

No obscure formulas
No messy calculations.
And without the letter-number cobweb.

Well, how? Have I removed a bit of your concerns?

So ... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, it is a cast from your body. This is your personal imprint. Any thing sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit perfectly on YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All-all models of dresses - are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove to you with an example. Even on three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

All other (any, any) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free topic.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

Beautiful? Beautiful.

What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a base pattern.

And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just a lot of fantasy.

By the way - since we are talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating a dress for a girl on a round yoke, a simple one and a dress on a round yoke with flounces.

You can do that too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist.

I want to wake up a little thing in you. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. And learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any, even intricately tailored, dress.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk along the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way.

As the wise man said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what are these halves for, and where to apply them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both half of the back and half of the front. So to speak - clearly and clearly.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two obscure words: TRUCK And ARMHOLE.

Of course, you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, get acquainted - PROYMA.

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size an armhole that fits you—when the armhole doesn't pull or dig into your arm.

Now let's get acquainted with the tucks.

BACK darts- shoulder tuck + waist tuck.

Here in the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder tuck on this dress. And on many dresses, too, it is not. Because for convenience and beauty, this tuck is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the tuck. And the extra fabric cut off in a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are optional if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Next, let's meet… DARK HALF FRONT.

Oh, you could write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain it more clearly - what it is for and what laws it lives by. I thought and thought ... and came up with.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example - this flat circle of cardboard, with the help of a tuck, will now become convex.

And here is how the chest tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

But that is not all,

what I want to say about the chest tuck.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest tuck on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest tuck from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?)))

It's only the beginning…

We continue to walk along the pattern and now get acquainted with the lines. horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the line of the chest. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We'll sew it with you. Don't even hesitate)

The chest line is the most wonderful line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate it when drawing a base pattern, because:

We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck of the back on the chest line.
We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
We know that the shoulder tuck is the front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

WAISTLINE

We are guided by this line when we draw waist tucks - both on the details of the front and on the details of the back. The widest point of the tuck is exactly at the waist line.

HIPS LINE

Along this line we draw the extension of the hem. We will need a classic hem extension of 1.5 cm on the left and right so that when walking the dress does not rub against the body too much, does not warp.

If you sew from stretchy fabrics, then such an expansion of the hem will prevent one very unpleasant thing - when the hem of a slip-on stretch dress begins to slowly crawl up the hips while walking towards the waist - and then you are forced to constantly pull it every 5-10 steps.

Also, the hem extension can be more than the classic 1.5 cm in the event that the girth of your thighs is much wider than the girth of your chest. .. Then we will expand the hem in accordance with the magnitude of the difference between these volumes (I will tell you in more detail below, when constructing a pattern).

Do you know why drawing a base pattern is easy and simple? Now you will understand...

WHY TO DRAW A PATTERN BASE IS EASY AND SIMPLE

I want to draw your attention to 2 remarkable points.

Great Moment #1 - the whole pattern is created inside the rectangle (I filled it with pink to make it clear)

Great Moment #2 - the most time-consuming is drawing the upper part of the pattern - where the neck is, and the shoulder line, and tucks, and armholes.

And to make it morally easier for you to draw, I divided the upper part of the pattern into three simple zones. In each zone we will draw 2-3 simple lines - and that's it - the upper part is ready.

As you can see, if you divide seemingly difficult work into 3 parts, each of the 3 parts does not seem difficult by itself. As a result, you will not notice how everything has already been drawn.

Do you feel now how easy it is? Draw your first real base pattern.

Well then, let's get started. And we will draw all this in 20 minutes. Set a timer.

WE START DRAWING A PATTERN BASIS - WE TAKE MEASURES.

WE TAKE MEASURES

The height of the future product (from the cervical vertebra to the bottom of the hem of the dress)

Half bust - (chest circumference divided by 2)

Center chest measurement - (distance between the peaks of the chest) in your regular bra.

Back Width- (at the level of the middle of the shoulder blades - from hand to hand)

Back lengths(from neck to waist)

Shoulder length- (from the side point at the base of the neck - to the shoulder joint)

Half neck- (neck girth divided by 2) the tape passes at the base of the neck without squeezing it

Semi circumference of the hips - (hip circumference divided by 2)

Half waist - (waist circumference divided by 2)

We know how to shoot all these girths of the chest, waist, hips and neck.

And for taking other measurements, I give you an indicative picture below:

STEP ONE- Draw a rectangle.

Rectangle Height - this is the height of the future product from the cervical vertebra to the bottom of the future dress

Rectangle Width - half bust + a few cm for a loose fit.

How much you need to add these very centimeters for free adhesion, now we'll figure it out.

Conventionally, there are 4 degrees of fitting a sheath dress:

Close-fitting dress silhouette

adjoining silhouette

Semi-adjacent silhouette

Straight silhouette

If you are sewing a dress from an ordinary non-stretch fabric, then it will not work to stick it to the curves of your body at all - and the maximum that we can do is to cut adjoining silhouette . And then the SURPRISE FOR THE FREEDOM OF FITTING WILL BE - 3 CM. These three centimeters will need to be evenly distributed between the back area, the armhole area and the chest area. That is, when we now divide the pattern into 3 zones - and we will calculate and measure their width - then we will simply add an additional 1 cm to the width of each of the zones - and that's it.

And if we need a base pattern for a dress straight silhouette - then add 6-7 cm.

STEP TWO -we zone the upper part of the rectangle into three zones: the back zone, the armhole zone, the chest zone.

The width of the back area is a measure of the width of the back divided by 2

The width of the armhole zone is the chest half-girth: 4 + 2 cm (divide the half-girth by 4 and add 2 to this figure)

The width of the chest area is what remains.

ATTENTION (!!!) If you made an allowance for freedom of fit at the very beginning, do not forget to add a part of this allowance to each zone (as I described a little higher in the article).

STEP THREE - draw 2 lines in the back area - the neck line + the shoulder line.

neckline - lies on a rectangle eand only its extreme tip is raised up.

What you need to know:
neck width = 1/3 semi-circle. neck + 0.5 cm
the height of the edge of the neck above the rectangle = 1/10 of the semicircumference of the neck + 0.8 cm

What do we have to do:

So we divide the half-girth of the neck by 3 and add 0.5 cm. We measure this distance on the upper line to the left. This we found the width of the neck, marked with a dot.

Now this point must be raised higher above the rectangle. Divide the half-girth of the neck by 10 + 0.8 cm - and raise the point by the resulting figure.

We all found the edge of the neck - now we need to draw a smooth corner. This can be done by hand.

shoulder line

it goes slightly obliquely - from the edge of the neck and slightly protrudes beyond the border of the back zone.

What you need to know:

Shoulder line length = shoulder length measurement + 1.6 cm for the tuck.
The slope of the shoulder line - for normal shoulders 2.5 (for high 1.5 cm, for sloping 3.5 cm) - we mark the level of inclination on the side line of the back zone (measure from top to bottom).

What do we have to do.

We figured out what type our shoulders are. We measured the desired value on the side line of the back zone (2.5, 1.5 or 3.5)

We drew a line - from the edge of the neck to the marked level of inclination.

And on this line we measure the length of the shoulder + 1.6 cm for the tuck. As a result, the line lengthened slightly and went beyond the back zone.

Note:
if suddenly your line turned out to be shorter and DID NOT GO BEYOND THE BACK ZONE - then ....

This could be for three reasons...
OR the shoulder measurement was taken INCORRECTLY(shorter than necessary) - not FROM the neck itself and not TO the middle of the round shoulder joint)

OR back width measurement WRONG (longer than necessary)- perhaps the back was hunched during the measurement, or the centimeter passed higher than at the level of the middle of the shoulder blades)

OR you are sewing a dress of LARGE FIT TYPE
- and therefore on the pattern they gave - put in this case - a large allowance in the back area
- and the back area with a surcharge turned out to be wider (than it would be in an adjacent silhouette)
and then perfectly normal that the shoulder line does not reach the edge of such an extended back area
and in that case it shouldn't bother you

Back tuck:

What you need to know:

The tuck is 4 cm from the edge of the neck
The depth of the tuck is 6 cm (that is, it goes down by 6 cm)
The tuck width is always 1.6 cm
The first side of the tuck falls perpendicularly, and the second is deflected to the side.
Both sides of the tuck are equal in length, that is, equal to 6 cm

What do we have to do(see picture) - measured 4 cm from the edge of the neck (put a thick dot) and measured 1.6 cm further for the tuck (put a dot) - these are the edges of our tuck.

STEP FOUR- we find the line of the chest and in the armhole area we draw the armhole of the back and the armhole of the front.

Back armhole line

What you need to know:

The armhole line descends evenly to the chest line.
And the height of the armhole of the back is always = 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest + 7 cm
The extreme (axillary) point of the armhole line is located exactly in the middle of the armhole zone (on the chest line).
Top 2/3 of armhole height goes almost straight down
The lower 1/3 of its height + 2 cm - the armhole bends to the side towards the midpoint of the armhole zone.

Draw the line of the chest

We found this value - and now we measure this distance down from the edge of the shoulder. Measured and marked.

We draw the line of the armhole of the back.

Now we will draw the armhole line of the back.

armhole front line

What you need to know:

The height of the armhole in front is equal to the bust: 4 + 5 cm (this is not a colon ":" this is a division sign)
The armhole has 2 bends:
The top bend is deflected away from the border of the armhole line 1/10 bust measurements

Lower bend - begins at the level of 1/3 of the height of the armhole from the chest line

What do we have to do:

Now we find the level of the bend of the armhole to the armpit - the height of the armhole: 3. We measure this distance on the side line of the armhole zone - we spank the point.

And we also have that same axillary point. We get only three points. Now through these three points we draw a smooth line of the armhole.

STEP FIVE– WE DRAW THE LINES OF THE BREAST ZONE (neck, shoulder and chest tuck)

Neckline

What you need to know:

The width and neckline of the front is the same as that of the neckline of the back = neck circumference: 3 + 0.5 cm
The depth of the neck is equal to the semicircumference of the neck: 3 + 2 cm
Neck edge height measured from chest line and equal to = bust: 2 + 3.5 (or + 2 cm for girls)

The diagonal depth of the neckline is = 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 1 cm

What do we have to do:

We find neck width(half circumference of the neck: 3 + 0.5 cm) - measure it from the corner of the pattern to the left - slap the point.

Now lift the edge of the neck- it should be above the chest line at a distance equal to (half-girth of the chest: 2 + 3.5 cm (or for girls + 2 cm).

We measure this distance up from chest line- and to this level we raise the edge of the neck. And do not be afraid if this point suddenly rises too high in your opinion above the edge of the main rectangle of the pattern. The larger your figure, the wider the horizontal plane of your shoulder, and the more you will have to raise this point of the upper edge of the neck.

For example, with a chest circumference of 80 cm, this point usually rises by about 4.5 cm (plus or minus 1 cm, depending on how sloping your shoulders are). And when the chest girth is 110 cm, then the dot can rise above the main square of the pattern by as much as 7 cm.

Now that you have raised the neck level up beyond the pattern - you need to draw weak lines of intersections this new horizontal level And a line that mentally extends the lateral part of the pattern upwards(see in my drawing these lines I drew in a bright light green color). These lines are needed as guidelines - because it is their points of intersection that we will measure our next measurements - the vertical depth of the neckline (decollete) and the diagonal depth.

We find the depth of the neck (half circumference of the neck: 3 + 2 cm) - measure it from the angle of intersection of the imaginary light green lines down - measure and slap the point.

Now, to make it more convenient for us to draw the correct rounded bend of our neckline, we measure the diagonal size of our neckline. It is measured with a centimeter tape from the intersection of the light green lines - diagonally to the left.

Front shoulder line

- you don't need to know anything. Here, in general, everything is simple - we connect the edge of the front neck and the upper edge of the front armhole - the gray line in the figure.

Breast tuck.

What you need to know:
The tip of the chest tuck reaches the chest line.
The tip of the chest tuck should exactly match the top of the chest (this is where the measurement of the center of the chest comes in handy).
The width of the tuck is found empirically, which is described below.

What do we have to do:

Now we need to draw the second side of the tuck - BUT for this we need to know its width.

There are no formulas here. The width of the tuck is learned empirically. For this we need

1.) Know the measurement of your shoulder length (we took this measurement at the very beginning)

2.) Measure the length of the shoulder line on the pattern with a centimeter.

3.) Compare these values with each other.

5.) The found width and measure to the left of the edge of the tuck. We mark with a dot. And from this second point we draw a line down to the tip of our tuck. Ops! And the tuck is almost ready.

7.) The line of the shoulder turned out to be a little broken (raised after the tuck). But this is how it should be. After closing the tuck, it will lower and be perfectly flat.

Note FOR DOUBTERS:
Regarding the large chest tuck on the shoulder line.
The fact is that the BIGGER the size of the breast, the BIGGER, WIDER this very tuck will be.
On my personal pattern-based - it is also extremely large
and because of this, the pattern looks kind of skewed
and not like the neat one that is in the article
- but the article draws an average pattern - such as it would be for a woman with an average breast (cup size B).
For example, in my case, this is also the case - I am a medium-sized girl, height 162, narrow shoulders, waist 70 - but my chest is D-sized - and therefore it turns out that on the pattern the shoulder line is cut by a huge chest tuck.

Then, when cutting on the fabric and sewing - when this tuck is closed (the flaps of the tuck are sewn together) - a completely neat shoulder line and a spacious recess are obtained - just for my large chest.
For a large chest - you need a large tuck - this is the only way you will get a large recess on the front detail - sufficient for your chest

And in general ... when you have any doubts about sewing or a pattern ... do this ... buy the cheapest fabric from which diapers are sewn for children - transfer the pattern that you doubt to the fabric - cut it - sew along the side seams - close the darts (that is, attach the edge of the tuck drawn on the fabric to the seam and fix it with a seam - sew the shoulder seams of the front with the back - oh put it all on yourself and you will immediately see that you are wearing a wonderful summer dress from a diaper)) - even after that you won’t want to throw it away ...)))

WE HAVE DONE WITH THE TOP OF THE PATTERN. URAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Let's do this quickly and that's all - it will be possible to open a bar with drinks and celebrate this business.

Well, let's get started...

STEP SIX - we divide the pattern into a back shelf and a front shelf - that is, into the right and left sides.

What you need to know:

Side seam line - divides the pattern into a back shelf and a front shelf.
The line of the side seam does not pass in the middle, but shifts towards the back (you need to divide the width of the armhole zone into 3 identical parts with two points - and just through the left point, which is closer to the back) and the side line will pass)

What do we have to do:

STEP SEVEN - draw a waist line and a hip line.

What you need to know.

The waist line is below the cervical vertebrae at a distance equal to the measurement of the length of the back.
The hip line is below the waist line at a distance equal to half the measurement of the length of the back.
Waist line and hip line - has a slight deflection (1.5 cm) on the half of the front (this deflection is necessary for the roundness of the tummy, which even the thinnest have).

What do we have to do.

We measure the level of the waist line - from the top of the pattern down we measure back length measurement- draw a line.

We measure the level of the hip line - from the waist line we measure down half back measurement- draw a line.

On the right side of the pattern, we mark points that are 1.5 cm below the lines - we bend the line to this point (as shown in the figure).

STEP EIGHT - draw the side bends of the front and back + waist darts in front and back.

Calculate the width of the tucks and side bends

What you need to know:

Width of the side bend in front = width of the side bend of the back = width of the back waist tuck = width of the front waist tuck. That is, in the process of fitting the dress, we remove the same amount of excess fabric in the side bends and in the darts.
To find out the width of a tuck or bend. You need to know the amount of excess fabric, the very one that should be cut off in the side bend or hidden in the tuck. And divide this total amount of excess fabric by 4 (each of these 4 pieces will go into its own tuck or into its side bend). Means…
Dart width (or side fold) = excess fabric: 4
Amount of excess fabric = pattern width minus half waist.
A little confusing, but now I will show everything with a specific example ....