Types of finishing garments. Methodical development of the training session "decorative finishing of garments". Methodological development of the lesson

SUBJECT: TYPES OF FINISHING GARMENTS

THE PURPOSE OF THE LESSON: Introduce students to the different types of finishes. To study the technology of customizing the finish. To cultivate aesthetic taste and respect for the national traditions of Ukrainian embroidery. To develop an understanding of the relationship between the practical purpose of the product and the finish.

EQUIPMENT: samples of types of finishes, an exhibition of children's finished products using different types of finishes, illustrations and cards for play moments, illustrations from magazines.

LESSON TYPE: non-standard

LESSON STRUCTURE

I. Organizing time

II. Learning new material

ІІІ.Non-standard physical education session based on testing students' knowledge of materials science, design and modeling.

IV. Journey to a fairy tale. Contests that develop ingenuity, memory, logical thinking.

V. Repetition and consolidation of safety regulations.

VI. Practical work.Pick up the finish for your apron and baste it.

VIII. Lesson results.

X. Homework.

DURING THE CLASSES:

I. Organizing time.

II. Study of new material.

Teacher's story:

Since ancient times, people have sought to decorate their clothes. For this, different types of finishes were used.

The character, style and perception of a product is mainly determined by its finish. Types of finishes enhance and emphasize individual lines and details.

Finishing is necessary in order for the garment to have an aesthetic appearance. When choosing its types, it is necessary to take into account the purpose of the garment, its design, the fibrous composition and color of the fabric, the durability of the finish when washing and ironing.

Let's look at the types of finishes:

(for each type of finish, the teacher demonstrates visual material, students along the way write down the types of finishes and the technology for their adjustment)

DECORATIVE STRIP. It is produced in a large assortment: silk, woolen, cotton, woven and wicker, one-color, motley, ornamented. Each style - romantic, sporty, folklore, elegant - has its own types of braid. The most famous types of braid: finishing and "bindweed".

A ribbon in the form of a ribbon is sewn on both sides at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edges. Previously, it is outlined along the intended line. It is highly stretchable in all directions.

Ribbon "VYUNCHIK" is adjusted in the middle of the braid.

LACE. Lace can be machine and hand knitted. This trim is used in the form of ribbons in various widths and colors. Lace ribbons can be EDGE, one of the sides of which has a smooth edge, and the other has a jagged, patterned edge. Edge laces are designed to finish the edges of the product or sew on the product on one side.

SEWING or SEWING - strips of thin cotton or silk fabric, on which machine embroidery is applied with holes overcast at the edges. Holes are included in the composition of the picture. The seam usually has a symmetrical pattern and smooth edges; it is sewn between the details of the product.

APPLICATION. Finishing the product with pieces of finishing material, sewn by hand or sewn on a sewing machine according to a pattern on the front side. On the application, sometimes you have to use additional lines if you need to depict stems, buds, leaves. They can be distinguished using hand stitches. Small details of the appliqué can be connected to the fabric using PVA glue.

ROLLS - this is the decoration of the product with strips of fabric cut along the transverse thread or at an angle of 45 to the warp threads and gathered on one side. The length of the part to be assembled is taken one and a half to two times the length of the stitching line.

The edges of the products are trimmed with a frill or they are sewn between two parts. The flying edge of the frill is folded over and stitched with a regular or zigzag stitch along the fold itself. Cut off the excess seam.

The gathering of the frill is performed using two parallel lines. To do this, distribute the assembly evenly along the entire length. The gathered edge is tacked to the main part, aligning the cuts, and stitched from the side of the part without assembly. The seam line should run on the frill between the gathering lines. The stitching seam is overcast, ironed onto the product.

RUSHES are frills, two sections of which are processed. They are attached to the product with a patch seam. Ruffles are simple, curly, complex.

Ruffles are cut out in the form of a strip with a transverse or oblique (at an angle of 45) arrangement of warp threads. The width of the strip is determined by the model, its length should be 1.5 - 3 times the length of the stitching line. Both cuts are processed. Sometimes ruffles are made from ready-made ribbons.

Finishing can be the fabric itself, from which the product is sewn, as well as the FINISHING FABRIC. This finish is called BEIKA. These are strips of finishing fabric, adjusted to the product.

When choosing a finish, it is necessary to take into account the combination of colors.

For fabric with a pattern, it is better to take the finish in the color of that part of the pattern, which is less common in the fabric.

And finally, one of the types of needlework that has been loved by women for many centuries is the art of embroidery.

EMBROIDERY is the most common type of folk art in Ukraine. The products of the embroiderers embody the surrounding world, beauty and fantasy, the customs of our ancestors. Embroidery is the process of finishing a product with stitches. In 5th grade we learned a few simple stitches and even used them to embroider patterns.

But today we are talking about embroidery as a kind of arts and crafts. This kind of art arose a long time ago - its roots go back to the depths of centuries. Samples of the most ancient embroidery in the museums of Europe belong to the U century. AD, and samples of Ukrainian embroidery have been preserved only for the last few centuries. Since ancient times, clothes, aprons, towels, runners, tablecloths, etc. have been decorated with hand embroidery.

From the second half of the 19th century, the art of embroidery gradually went beyond the limits of home crafts. Throughout the historical and cultural development in Ukraine, various methods and methods of decorative design have been produced and developed. Many embroidery techniques have been obtained. Now, about 100 types of seams are known.

According to the method of execution, the seams are divided into free and countable. The free embroidery technique is performed according to a pre-drawn outline, and the counting technique is performed by counting the threads of the fabric. Therefore, any fabric can be used for loose seams, while plain weave or canvas can be used for counted seams. Embroidery can decorate finishing details - pockets, bib. It is used on plain fabric. Embroidery can be one-color and multi-color. It is necessary to be able to choose the right color of threads. All colors should harmonize with each other. The selected color of the threads should be well combined with the color of the fabric on which the embroidery is made.

The harmony of combinations lies in the balance of warm and cold tones, in the juxtaposition of similar colors, perceived as shades of the same color.

Contrasting colors located next to each other emphasize each other, and tones close in color give a softer combination.

III. Here we got acquainted with the types of finishes, and now I propose to warm up.(Physical education takes place in the form of a warm-up and repetition of the material covered. The teacher dictates to the children questions, the answers to which are “yes” or “no”. Students raise their hands to questions with the answer “yes”, and “no” - forward)

BLITZ QUESTIONS

ON MATERIAL SCIENCE. DESIGN AND

APRON MODELING.

1. Fibers used in the manufacture of fabrics, threads, are called textile? (Yes)
2. A narrow, compacted strip along the edge of a fabric is called an edge? (Yes)
3. Is the fabric made on a spinning wheel? (No)
4. The edges of the fabric do not crumble due to the edge? (Yes)
5. Spinning is the process by which fibers are made into yarn. (Yes)
6. Threads running along the fabric are called warp threads? (Yes)
7. Is the process of making fabric from yarn called weaving? (Yes)
8. Can the direction of the warp and weft threads in the fabric be determined by the sound of a sharp stretch? (Yes)
9. Is the pattern brighter and clearer on the wrong side? (No)
10. Is cotton a natural fiber? (Yes)
11. Linen is a chemical fiber? (No)
12. Is the drawing done by hand and by eye? (No)
13. Are measurements taken with a scale bar? (No)
14. Are measurements taken on the right side of the figure? (Yes)
15. Width and girth measurements are recorded in half size? (Yes)
16. Merku - Di - need to be divided in half? (No)
17. When cutting fabric, determine the direction of the pattern? (Yes)
18. Do I need to iron the seams after each operation? (Yes)
19. When cutting, is the direction of the warp thread taken into account? (Yes)
20. Need to outline a pattern? (Yes)
21. Is an apron a work wear? (Yes)
22. First lay out the large details of the pattern, and then the small ones? (Yes)
23. Are patterns sewn to fabric with thread? (No)
24. Do you need to follow safety rules while working? (Yes)
25. When sewing an apron, use a hem seam with a closed cut? (Yes)

IV. You have worked hard, remembered a lot, well done. Well, now, sit down comfortably, and I will tell you a fairy tale. Do you know what? (children answer)

Once upon a time there was a man and a woman, they had a son and a daughter. The parents went to the market, left their daughter to look after her brother. The girl played with her friends. Geese-swans flew in, carried away my brother. The girl only saw how they disappeared behind the forest. She rushed to catch up with them. She ran through fields, forests, ran to a clearing with a hut on chicken legs. He sees: his brother is playing on the grass. Crept up, grabbed and ran away. And the geese-swans - in pursuit, fly, catch up. Where to go? Ahead the river flows - jelly banks. The girl asks the mother river to help, hide them with her brother. The river replies: "Eat my jelly and guess riddles, then I will help, hide"

Let's help the girl solve riddles.

(the teacher guesses 3 riddles in each row, the row who correctly guessed the riddles helped the girl. If both rows answered correctly, the whole class helped to hide)

1 row 2 row

He is good - a million income, There is a steamer -

You can't beat him with your tongue. Back, then forward

Mni his share - the fiber will be more. And behind him such a smooth surface -

He is a shirt in the field (flax) Not a wrinkle to be seen. (iron)

With a ponytail, not a mouse. The more I turn

Without legs, but running. (ball of thread) The fatter I get. (spindle)

Two ends, two rings, steel horse,

And in the middle are carnations. (scissors) Linen tail (needle and thread)

The river hid the children under the bank, the swan geese flew by without noticing. The children are running further, and the swan geese have returned, flying towards, trouble! The children see - there is an apple tree in front. The girl asks: “Mother apple tree, help, hide my brother and me!”

“Try my apple and put together proverbs from these words - I will help”

1 row: The earth, a, labor, paints, the sun, a person (The sun paints the earth, and labor paints a person)

They will grind, and, work, everything, patience (Patience and work will grind everything)

2 row: One, cut, one, seven, one, measure (Measure seven times, one time

cut off)

Ah, the needle, no, hands, sews (Not the needle sews, but the hands)

(teacher sums up)

The apple tree covered the children with branches, and the swan geese flew by. A girl came out, grabbed her brother and ran. They run, now the house is visible. But the geese-swans are catching up, they saw the guys, they beat with their wings, and they will tear out the brother from their hands. Fortunately, there is a stove on the road. “Madame stove, hide us!” - ask the children. “Try my rye pie and fill the cells with words - I will help,” the oven said.

(The teacher gives each row of tablets with empty cells and a set of words. Students need to quickly fill in the empty cells with these words according to the number of letters.)

1 row 2 row

Seam Linen

Needle Iron

Yarn Fabric

Stitch Braid

Embroidery Lace

Fashion Designer Pattern

Bib Thimble

Application Technology

(teacher summarizes)

The children quickly climbed into the oven, and the swan geese flew, screamed and flew away empty-handed. Happy children ran to the house, where they were waiting for gifts from their parents. See what new clothes they brought from the fair. And what kind of apron would you sew for a girl? Draw a sketch in your notebooks.

(students draw a sketch of their apron in notebooks)

Today in the lesson you learned different types of finishes, we remembered the past material, listened to a fairy tale, played, and now it's time to get to work. In the practical part of our lesson, you should match the finish to your apron and baste it. And in the next lesson, we will stitch it and finish embroidery on the pocket, and for those whose fabric does not allow embroidery, they bring napkins made of plain fabric. Each student must master the techniques of a free surface and preserve the traditions of our people.

V. Before you start practical work, you need to remember the safety rules.

To remember them faster, let's carefully listen to the verse in Ukrainian language and complete the rest of the rules. (student reads a verse)

In the necks and hairpins - gostrі stings,

Don't throw it anywhere.

Remember what is with the robot

Їx not a trace of trim in the mouth.

Golka, start remembering,

Do not fill without threads

Koristoy carefully

Do not fit into your clothes.

Dear mother's call

Trimati neckline.

(students complete the safety rules, after the answers of the children the teacher adds)

There is another rule that every seamstress knows about. So that you remember him, I will tell you an excerpt from another fairy tale.

Once the imp looked at the tailor's work. And it seemed to the imp that he had been busy with his sewing for a very long time. Too often the thread is inserted into the needle. Until the thread is torn off, until it is inserted into the needle, and time is running out. And the little devil thought: "I could have handled the sewing more quickly." He thought and called to the tailor:

Hey tailor, let's bet I can get your job done faster.

The tailor was surprised at the words of the imp, thought for a minute and agreed to the offer. They took a piece of cloth, thread and needle, and set to work. The devil, don't be a simpleton, unwound a long thread, about a mile away, threaded it into a needle and began to wield it. He pierces the fabric with a needle and runs to another corner of the hut, pulls the thread behind him, then runs back to the table, and he himself gets confused in the thread, swears. And the tailor sits in his place, you know, he tears off the threads of a small length, sews for himself and sews. The little devil will never finish one line, but the tailor has all the work ready. The self-confident imp lost.

What is the tailor's secret? (children answer how long the thread needs to be torn off for easy sewing)

VI.Practical work.

VII. Consolidation of new knowledge and skills of students.

VIII. Lesson results.

X. Homework: bring tools and materials for embroidery,

Consider the composition of the embroidery.

The finished garment without finishing is unattractive to the consumer. In order to "revive" the product, to decorate it, quite a lot of methods and types of technological equipment that implement them are known. Recently, special attention has been paid to the finishing of products.

The leading direction in the field of finishing is embroidery which is getting more and more popular every year. Embroidered products and simply embroidered fabrics look very impressive and can add exclusivity to even the simplest products. And the diversity of the assortment and the elegance of the product are beyond doubt.

Big successes were achieved by Tajima (Japan), Barudan (Japan), Sun-Star (South Korea), ZSK (Germany), Melco (USA). The constructive variety of equipment for embroidery is great. So, the number of sewing heads in the unit ranges from 1÷2 to 20 or more. The number of replaceable colored threads is from 6 to 15. The embroidery field of one head reaches a size of 450  550 mm; stitch length - from 0.1 to 12.7 mm. Sewing speed up to 1200 rpm (with a stitch length of 2÷3 mm), and sometimes 1500 rpm. The equipment can reproduce paintings by famous artists on fabric using colored threads. A general view of one of these installations is shown in Figure 1.

Rice. 1. Embroidery machine

The improvement of this technique goes in the following ways: the amount of memory is increased, the number of sewing heads is increased (up to 60 pieces), devices are introduced into the design for automatic replacement of bobbin in shuttles; various finishes are combined in one setting: embroidery, appliqué, cord stitching, chain stitch embroidery. The dimensions of the products that can be fixed in the clamps of the machine are reduced.

The combination of well-known embroidery machines with a laser installation is especially effective. Here the possibilities of the artist can be realized much more fully. It can create multi-layered compositions of a complex profile, engrave, make applications from various materials, including foil. It is possible, for the sake of fashion, to imitate scuffs, holes. The cut spot diameter is approximately 0.2 mm. Laser cutting is very accurate and accurate, does not depend on the complexity of the contour; programmable, like embroidery. It allows you to perform such a complex type of finish as "richelieu". At the same time, the edge after trimming on fabrics containing synthetics is melted, and shedding is prevented.

A few words about stitch . The well-known stitch “diamonds” or “waves” is a primitive that is a thing of the past.

Today, stitch is approaching embroidery. Laying a cord, ribbon, stitching with sequins (sparkles), beads, glass beads is used. The control is carried out not by cams, but by a computer through servomotors, and therefore the complexity of the drawing is limited only by the artist's imagination. The shuttles are not "boat", but rotary; this made it possible to increase the operating speed from 600 to 1000 rpm. Paired needles allow you to get compressed firmware. The tension of the material during rewinding from roll to roll is carried out by compressed air.

The scope of embroidered fabrics is very large: curtains, tulle, drapery of walls and openings in buildings, furniture covering, bed linen, elegant evening wear (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Stitch patterns

The fashionable direction of finishing today is the processing of products hand stitch . Lines consisting of such stitches are laid on men's jackets, women's jackets, shirts. And if it used to be really a line made by hand, which is slow and expensive, now special machines have appeared for this purpose. Some of them imitate hand stitch, but there are those that completely repeat the stitch made by an experienced tailor.

In this case, the machine needle has a sharp point on both sides and an eye in the middle. Two collet clamps pass it, threaded, to each other. The mechanism is quite complicated, and besides, the thread during sewing repeatedly passes through the needle hole, which leads to a loss of its strength, and manufacturers recommend special threads for these machines.

Naturally, the work of such machines is more productive. As an example of such a machine, let's call the DECO-2000 ATT of the American company AMFReese. Finishing lines are laid on it, for example, along the side of the jacket, on slots, darts, on leaflets, on pockets.

Recently, machines have appeared for attaching finishing touches to clothing. thermoplastic elements using ultrasonic generators. Such equipment is manufactured by V1VISIONTECH.CO (South Korea). The machine under the brand VHS-540 has two baskets (bunkers), which accommodate two types of fittings. Piece by piece, the fittings are automatically fed into the working area and, with the help of simultaneous heating and ultrasonic action, the finishing element is attached to the fabric. This double action increases the strength of the connection. With a simple switch, the operator can switch from one type of fittings to another, that is, to supply from one basket, then from another (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Ultrasonic installation for attaching fittings

clothing (rhinestones, sequins)

The same firm demonstrated a setup combined with a lockstitch sewing machine and a needle feeder. sequins (sequins) separated from the metal strip. When sewing, the needle enters the hole in the sequin and attaches it to the product. Sequins can be sewn close to each other or at intervals. The feed rate is changed by means of a cam mechanism.

Another interesting machine was developed by SALLI (South Korea). The thermoplastic tape is rewound from cassette to cassette. A punch is installed in the working area, which knocks out a small flat figure from the tape, which is immediately attached to the surface of the fabric due to ultrasonic heating. Substituting various parts of the fabric under the punch, you can get a bright finish of a rather interesting shape.

For finishing products from more dense, non-flowing materials (cloth, thin leather), the SRC-50 machine from SALLI is used (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Finishing machine for dense materials

In this machine, a roller on which a pattern is applied is used as a working body. Under the influence of ultrasonic frequency waves, the pattern of the roller, when rolling it over the fabric, perforates this fabric, carving small holes on it, which together forms a kind of hemstitch. New original finish.

Laser drawings, welding devices for attaching finishing strips, installations for making numbers and all kinds of inscriptions on T-shirts, jackets, bags, scarves are used in decoration.

Until now, drawings and inscriptions were applied by silk-screen printing. This is a method of applying paint through a stencil. But at the same time, if the image should be multi-colored, you need to superimpose several layers (again through a stencil) on top of each other. Hence, the quality is not always good, and the productivity is low.

The modern method of printing on textiles is a method of directly applying a pattern to the fabric using a printer, similar to those that are widely used in office work (Fig. 5).

The images are very clear, almost photographic quality. There are no color restrictions.

Water-based ink is used for drawing. To the touch, the image does not differ from the main fabric. The pattern is fixed at a temperature of 150–185 °C using a heat press, which makes it possible to achieve complete fixation of the colors on the fabric.

The inks that are used in printers do not adversely affect human skin, as they are water-based inks. Modern technology provides the possibility of full-color printing on fabrics with different fiber composition. The equipment is supplied by Brother (Japan), AnaJet (USA).

Rice. 5. Textile printer

Another type of finish drawings and inscriptions made on the basis of thermal transfer films. Scope - work and sportswear. The finish is bright, clearly visible, highly resistant to washing, dry cleaning, and aggressive external manifestations.

Rice. 6. Press for installing hooks, loops, buttons on clothes

Film inscriptions are made of thin films (only 55÷60 microns), which, when exposed to heat, are welded to the product, forming, as it were, one whole with the fabric.

Thermal transfer films are made from polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride. They also include glue. It is activated by heat and penetrates the structure of the fabric, and when cooled, it polymerizes, fixing the pattern.

To obtain such a finish, you need a cutting plotter (this is a well-known printer that has a knife instead of a print head) and a heat press. Equipment and films are offered by Zenon (Germany).

The Gutos company (Germany) demonstrated a system technique (Fig. 6) for installing various types of buttons, hooks, loops, clips on clothes, which, in addition to their main purpose of “holding something”, can also have a finishing function - to decorate clothes. These fittings can be metal and plastic, smooth and patterned. Sometimes the buttons are made with covered fabrics; the same from which the clothes are made or, conversely, contrasting.

The finishing of denim products stands apart. Now new jeans go on sale in such a form as if they had been worn for a long time: faded paint, local scuffs, even holes - these are the requirements of fashion. This is achieved by cooking in a washing machine with special stones (such as pumice) and with biologically active substances - enzymes. These technologies are very complex, but today they are well developed. Firms such as Tonello (Italy) or Novozymes (Denmark) supply equipment and chemical components in the required quantities.

Sections: Correctional Pedagogy

1. Reflection of mood and emotional state

Students are asked to choose a picture that matches their mood. At the end of the lesson, give the task to place the rays in the sun according to your mood.

Fashion, though fleeting, manages to fix certain moments of social development.

Gabriel Tarde

The purpose of the lesson: to introduce students to the history of fashion from the Stone Age to the present.

Tasks:

• To form an idea about the methods of finishing the product, its purpose.
• Learn to apply the finish, in accordance with the type, shape and color of the product.
• Develop visual-figurative thinking, cognitive activity.

Means of education: stand "Types of finishing"; color samples.

Handout: fabric, flow charts, safety briefing.

Technical training aids: computer, multimedia projector.

Lesson type: learning new.

2. Organizing moment

"Scroll"

Read the names of the dictionary words encrypted in this scroll, which will sound throughout the lesson.

Key. Look for the letters of the Russian alphabet.

Dictionary: decoration, flower, fashion, beauty.

3. Oral frontal survey with demonstration elements

(There is a green chest on the table)

Today to us for our lesson
In the morning from nowhere,
Look, a chest has been sent -
Miracle, emerald color
And wrapped in silver...
Look: a letter on it!
We will read it now.
(I take out a letter and read).
Here, my friend, there is a treasure,
And treasures lie.
And guess what
And then open!

- Let's think about what kind of treasures lie in it?
The chest is old ... Maybe we will find snow-white lace or bright embroidery in it?
So let's open the box! This is such a nice product! Ah, so what is it? Your task is to determine what type of finish on this product?
(The teacher takes out the products one by one, the children name the types of finishes.)
Craftsmen create miracles with their own hands!

- The topic of today's lesson is "Decorative design of a garment." In the course of the previous lessons, you got acquainted with the elements of decoration on the products, and today, during practical work, complete the simplest design of the product - a removable flower - a brooch. This topic was not chosen by chance. In previous classes, we sewed aprons, repaired clothes, that is, made patches, embroidered a little. We touched on this topic one way or another. Let's remember:
- What types of finishes are used in the manufacture of an apron? For decorating blouses, napkins, tablecloths, pillows?
- Is it possible to use these finishes in the manufacture of skirts, dresses?
– Is it possible to make a patch in the form of an application?

Conclusion: We remembered the types of finishes. Thus, one type of finish can be used in various products.

“Now let’s move on to the past.

- Decorations on clothes are known from the Stone Age to our time.

The desire for beauty is one of those properties that have been inherent in man in all epochs. A beautiful appearance helped him feel needed and desired in the circle of those people with whom he communicated. Not without reason, in all religions of the world, people endowed their gods with eternal youth and beauty. And from century to century, one of the most important elements of external beauty was cloth.

Clothing is a set of products (often woven or knitted from various materials) that people put on to cover their bodies.
Clothing is of natural origin (in primitive tribes, clothing is made from plant leaves). It should be noted that clothing traditionally corresponds to the gender of the wearer. Therefore, most often by clothes you can identify a man or a woman.

The most ancient types of "clothes" are coloring and tattoos, which performed the same protective functions as the clothes covering the body. Body painting also protected from the effects of evil spirits and from insect bites.

The emergence of clothing and fashion. Cloth- one of the oldest human inventions. The material for clothes, in addition to skins, were leaves, grass, tree bark. Hunters and fishermen used fish skin, sea lion guts and other marine animals, and bird skins. Clothing made from skins before the invention of weaving was the main clothing of primitive peoples. With the advent of weaving, clothing was made from cloth.

At the beginning of the 11th century, fabrics were already of a higher quality. The knights of that era wore long chain mail and greaves with knee pads. They wore cloaks with an embroidered coat of arms. Young ladies wore long dresses with long fitting sleeves decorated with simple color patterns.
Shoes were made of soft leather and embroidered.

A common men's clothing in that era was a loose, open tunic at the neck, intercepted at the waist by a thin leather belt. Tight stockings-pants were sewn, but the shape of the leg. Soft leather shoes had pointed toes, sometimes two inches longer than the feet. Women wore a rather wide, floor-length underdress with narrow sleeves. The top dress of this style had a small train at the back and was sometimes picked up in front both for ease of walking and in order to be able to see the rich fabric from which the underdress was sewn. A wide-cut, long loose cloak of rich fabric with ribbon ties at the shoulders was thrown over the outfit. The shoes were made from soft leather.

The 13th century costume of the man depicted in the drawing can serve as an example of the extravagance of fashion. This wide, baggy robe was both long and short. The figure shows a short version. Long sleeves ended at the wrists with very wide cuffs. High, to the back of the head, the collar was fastened in front at the chin. The tunic was intercepted at the waist by a decorated leather belt. It was the time of the absurd fashion for shoes with long pointed toes (the so-called "pulen" or "krakow"). To be able to walk, they had to be tied to the knee with a gold chain.
Women used simple tight-fitting undergarments, consisting of a one-piece skirt and a bodice fastened in front with a round neckline. The sleeves were narrow, wrist-length, and decorated with buttons from the wrist to the elbow. A hoop was put on at the level of the hips. The top dress was often turned around with fur along the edge. Her hair was completely hidden by a bonnet embroidered with gold and pearls.

At the end of the 14th century, Italian dandies dressed so extravagantly that their outfits looked more like masquerade costumes. A short and unfastened wide tunic ("doublets" - on the left) opened the chest . Sleeves with puffs at the top tightly fitted the arm below the elbow. Over tight, sometimes two-tone stocking pants, short top pants were worn. Three-quarter length stockings were also worn. The toes of the shoes became blunt and wide, the backs were low, and turned away on the sides. A fussy leather belt covered the waist, on which they wore a purse with tassels and a sword. Castor hats in bright colors continued to be an element of high fashion.
The shoes had blunt toes and a low heel. Round hats were in fashion, they were worn by representatives of most classes. A warm cloak or cape was a necessary addition to the costume.

In the middle of the 16th century, the courtiers wore tunics with a lining, a high collar and slits through which the white puffs of the shirt looked through. The slots were sheathed with precious stones and a patterned border. Two white sashes covered the waist, from one of which hung a dagger adorned with gold. The king's legs are covered with white stockings-pants, and the left stocking at the knee is decorated with a royal garter. The wide outer jacket of red velvet is trimmed with sable and richly embroidered with gold cord. Heinrich is wearing a gold chain with precious stones, leather gloves are in his hand.
Queen Jane Seymour is depicted wearing a headdress typical of this time, resembling a sloping roof. The low square neckline of a red velvet dress is embellished with pearl and ruby ​​ribbons. An inverted V-shaped slit down the waist from the waist reveals an embroidered petticoat that matches the color of the long, slit, fake sleeves. Wide cuffs are thrown back and pinned to the elbow. The bell-shaped skirt was sometimes achieved by corrugating the fabric from which the underskirt was sewn. Jewelry consists of rings and magnificent earrings.

Already at the end of the 16th century, the lady's dress had a long, fitted bodice. The deep neckline is trimmed with lace frills. Straight sleeves reach the elbow and end with wide ruffled lace cuffs. For weekend outfits, high, elbow-length gloves made of silk or soft thin leather were always worn.
Looking at the officer of 1678 from behind, we would have seen the justocor in its entire length. This camisole did not have a collar and was fastened in front with buttons and fancy loops. The sleeves flared slightly and ended with turn-down cuffs. From the right shoulder to the left thigh, a long embroidered sash is thrown over the chest and back of the officer, supporting the sword. It is also adorned with ribbon loops known as sword knots. The waist is covered with a silk sash with tassels at the ends. Wide, knee-length trousers were very common. On their feet they wore shoes with square toes and a long tongue from the instep to the ankle, which were fastened with straps and buckles. All noblemen who followed the fashion wore wigs. The wide brim of the felt hat rose high in front.

Lady's dress in patterned muslin, French style, straight, belted at the waist. On the shoulders of the lady is a triangular muslin scarf. The elongated front of the dress is gathered on a ribbon so that it can be tied around the waist. The sleeves are finished with pleated frills. The hat is a huge "mushroom" of white muslin.
He is wearing a tailcoat with tails "with a split"; in front, the floors are cut off above the waist line at a right angle. A tie with lace trim at the ends holds a high turn-down collar. The vest is straight, to the waist. The trousers at the knees are supported by ribbon loops. Black jockey boots come to the knee.

The dress of the young lady on the right is trimmed with ruffles. The bell-shaped skirt is greatly expanded downwards, the upper skirt is several long peplums joined together.
The second lady is wearing a strongly fitted outer garment. The dress is trimmed with galloon, the skirt, very wide at the bottom, has a bell shape. The petticoat, floor-length, is fringed at the hem with a frill. The lady's cap is decorated with flowers and ribbons.

The girl is wearing a velvet dress trimmed with fur; The bodice has a shortened waist. The skirt fastens with three metal or amber buttons. The collar forms a cape at the back and sides at the shoulders and is embellished with a silk collar. The sleeves are wide to the elbow, with folds, then narrow and fit to the wrists. The shoes match the color of the dress.

The fashion of the late 19th century was characterized by terrible extravagance. They preferred chiffon, crepe de chine, lace and other translucent materials. The petticoat was always sewn from silk, and while walking it made a slight rustle. Lace, embroidery, sequins, soutache, flounces, ruffles, pleats - all this served to decorate one dress.

The lady is dressed in a day dress with a bodice that drapes around the body in a V-shape. The skirt is very tight. The sleeves are short, with turn-down cuffs, decorated with long lace ruffles reaching to the elbow. On the head of the lady is a hat decorated with vertically placed feathers with incredibly large brim.
Her companion is wearing a single-breasted day coat, fastened in front with two buttons. A tie is tied to a hard turn-down collar. Trousers are narrowed from top to bottom. The man has a silk hat on his head, soft gloves on his hands, and a cane in his hand.

In the mid-fifties, jackets were single-breasted, almost knee-length, with narrow lapels, fastened in the front in the middle .. Tight trousers - "pipes", usually light, ended at the ankle. The shoes were voluminous, with microporous soles.
Women wear a jacket that widens from the waist and reaches the hips with a narrow stand-up collar. Fitted, with long, to the wrist, sleeves, the jacket was fastened in the front in the middle with three large buttons. The mid-calf length skirt was tight-fitting. Hats were now usually small and sat firmly on the head. They wore gloves on their hands, handbags in their hands. The costume was complemented by light-colored stockings and timeless high-heeled shoes.

In the late 70s, as in the sixties, blue jeans came into fashion and did not go out of it anymore. Although jeans have been worn for a hundred years or even longer - they appeared in France, then came to America, where they were used as miner's, worker's, children's clothing.
The man is wearing a denim suit consisting of trousers and a shirt. On the right in the picture, a young punk girl ("panchetta") with a matching hairstyle - a bright red "mohawk" (shaved temples, hair standing up in the middle of her head) and outrageous coloring on her face. Punk jackets are usually leather, often with numerous metal fasteners, buttons; T-shirts or nets were worn under jackets. High lace-up boots or boots on the "platform" wore short, ankle-length socks. Punks love exotic and ethnic jewelry. The tattoo on the face and hands was fashionable among both men and women. Bandoliers were often tied around the hips as an additional decoration.

In the eighties, cropped skirts became an international fashion.
On the right, a "cropped silhouette, designed tight-fitting jumper with a high collar and long sleeves. A mini-skirt, straight and narrow, with side pockets, reaches mid-thigh. A wide belt is tightened at a narrow waist. Accessories consist of long, well above the wrist, contrasting gloves and a large, flat, round hat, dark flesh-colored tights, and high-heeled shoes.

From 2000 to 2010

Nowadays, various finishes, which were mentioned above, are very widely used.
Finishes complement and decorate products, emphasize certain shaped lines, sometimes finishing functions in them are combined with purely utilitarian ones (finishing with buttons, zipper, etc.). Now, most often, all kinds of accessories are used as decorations (buttons, “zippers”, buckles, etc.) and various finishing materials (braid, cord, soutache, ribbons, brushes, lace, sewing), as well as flowers, knitwear, natural and artificial furs and leather. The decoration of dresses with various appliqués, hemstitches, embroidery, which is performed with woolen and silk threads, beads, glass beads, is widely used. Finally, another group of finishes made from the main or finishing fabric is widely used. These are all kinds of piping, inlays, flounces, ruffles, frills, finishing stitches, ironed assemblies, pleats, rudders, scallops, puffs, tucks, small folds, etc.

Spring collection 2011

5. Physical culture break

Performing 4-5 exercises for relaxation, posture correction, gymnastics for the eyes.

“Women have only one opportunity to be beautiful, but there are a hundred thousand opportunities to be attractive!”, I would like to start practical work with these wise words of Montesquieu.

Today we are talking about finishing:
In it very often fashion is the essence.
Don't be afraid to try, take a risk.
Finishing can be different:
To be permanent, to be removable.
And our costume is quite ordinary
Finishing may change.

Do you remember what we talked about in the previous lessons? (We studied the topic "Finishing light clothing")
– What did we learn in these lessons? (In the lessons we learned to cut and process ruffles, flounces, frills)

- To check how much you have mastered the concepts of this topic, let's remember mathematics, fill in the table and find out the key words used in decoration.

45 - 44 = ? 26 - 20 =? 2 + 4 = ? 5 + 6 = ? 7 + 3 = ? 17 - 15 = ? 37 - 36 = ? 7 - 4 =? 4 + 6 = ? 19 - 15 = ? applique

13 - 3 = ? 17 - 14 = ? 8 + 2 = ? 47 - 42 =? 19 - 15 = ? 28 - 26 =? frill

7. Practical work

- I propose to make flowers from the most unexpected materials. You will be making different fabric rose flowers. You can decorate your hair with these accessories, you can dress.

Flowers can be decoration throughout the year: these are birthdays, anniversaries of all kinds, solemn meetings, graduation parties and, of course, not a single wedding ceremony is complete without the presence of flowers. Wedding bouquet of the bride, a wreath that adorns the elegantly trimmed head of the bride.

Safety briefing.

– Let's repeat what basic rules of safe work you must always and everywhere follow.

• During manual sewing, the needle must be ...
• We stick the pins into the fabric in the direction ...
• While working with an electric iron, stand on ...
• During operation, the scissors must be ... with ...

- In today's lesson, I propose to make a rose flower (group work).

1 - variant rose "jellyfish" - II gr. and III gr.
2 - option rose "bud" - I gr.

- In the first lesson, we will complete the first stage of making a flower.

- You have instruction cards for making a flower, which you will rely on while working.

I gr. - works independently.
II gr. - works according to the finished cut.
III gr. - work with ready-made squares.

8. Summary of the lesson

- What did you learn in the lesson?
– What did you get?
What do you remember most about the lesson?

• Presentation of your work.
• Evaluation of work.

- In the next lesson, we will continue making flowers. I would like to finish the lesson with the words:

The hands of people can make any miracle:
And flowers can weave across the white field,
And embroider the golden sun across the blue sky,
To become more beauty on earth.
I will pick up a thread and a simple rag,
And a little fantasy and magic -
And I'll sew something that you can't even dream of.
Only for beauty to live on earth!

– I really hope that what you learned today will be useful to you in your life. Do not be afraid to create, reach for the beautiful. You will succeed!

In the practice of modeling clothes, various finishes are widely used, which not only decorate the product, but enhance and enrich its composition. Finishes can be used to highlight the shape of the product or its part, divide the form into parts, combine parts of the form or several different independent forms, organize visual movement in a certain direction on the surface of the form.

Finishes enrich the artistic and figurative design of the costume. Some types of finishes are both decorative and constructive, while others are decorative and utilitarian.

Materials and forms of finishes can be very diverse. All of them can be divided into seven groups:

1) finish obtained as a result of all types of embossed relief seams, folds, puffs, draperies, gathers, pleats, corrugations, finishing stitches;

2) finishing with details made from the fabric of the product or finishing fabric: frills, ruffles, flounces, inlays, edgings, edging seams, rolls, bows, ties, straps, valves;

3) finishing with special finishing materials: lace, braid, cord, soutache, fringe, ribbon, flowers;

4) finishing with fittings: buttons, buckles, decorative buttons, blocks, holnitens, zippers;

5) finishing with embroidery, appliqué, emblems

6) finishing with other materials: natural and artificial fur and leather, knitwear, suede, split leather, velvet, lace, fabrics;

7) finishing the details of the product with a printed pattern.

Finishes of the 1st group are widespread and are used in different types of clothing. They are given great attention in the process of creating a model project, since they can be a means of creating a form, dividing a form into parts, and connecting a form. They are inextricably linked with the design of the product and largely determine the consumption of material for the product. The finishes of this group are concise and relatively stable. Some types of finishes, such as reliefs, folds, finishing stitches, are used constantly.

They have not only a decorative, constructive purpose, but also a utilitarian one.

So the finishing line, along with emphasizing the edge of the part, the seam, secures the edge, the seam and ensures the preservation of their shape; folds enrich the shape of the product, provide freedom of movement in it.

Vertically located reliefs, tuck-out relief seams, folds, finishing lines give the details clarity and harmony. Draperies, puffs, assemblies are inextricably linked with the soft shape of the product or its part, and draperies, puffs can be the center of the composition of the product. The most expressive finishes of this group are on plain-dyed fabrics, and for draperies, puffs, and assemblies, the fabrics should be plastic, but not sluggish; for reliefs, folds, tucked relief seams, fabrics can be of different thicknesses, but dense enough.

Finishes of the 2nd group decorate the form, create visual movement on its surface (frills, frills, ruffles), highlight the form (piping, edging, inlay). Some types of finishes have a decorative and utilitarian purpose. Thus, edge edging is a means of decorative design and a means of its processing, fixing; rulik, bow - by means of fastening parts of the product.

The finishes of this group can be used in adult and children's products from plain dyed and printed fabrics.

The mechanization of the process of manufacturing inlays and edging seams made it easy, accessible in the mass production of clothing. Inlays and edging seams are widely used in the manufacture of children's clothing, clothing for leisure, they give the products a decorative effect, variety, and freshness.

Finishes of the 2nd group do not affect the configuration and size of the main parts of the product, therefore they can be widely used in the design of clothing on the same constructive basis, which, at minimal cost, makes it possible to dramatically increase the variety of models.

In the 3rd group of finishes, braid and lace are the most common. Finishing braid, depending on its type, can be used in a wide range of products, giving children's clothing, clothing for recreation and sports decorative, national flavor; smart clothes - festivity; everyday clothes - clarity, rigor, dimensional stability of the edges.

Braid can emphasize constructive divisions, highlight the shape of the edge. Finishing tape can replace expensive embroidery. The edging of parts with braid is less laborious than with fabric.

Finishing of the 4th group - accessories - is an element of the fastener and performs an important utilitarian role, the convenience of using clothes depends on it. Along with this, accessories also play a decorative role, especially for everyday wear, clothing for sports and leisure. In this group, the most common type of decoration are buttons, which can be made of different materials, different shapes and colors. The material of the buttons, their shape and color must correspond to the purpose of the product, the shape and lines of its segmentation, the color and type of material.

Finishes of the 5th group are the most decorative. Embroidery can be hand and machine, made with threads, glass beads, beads, sequins, sequins. It can be used in products for various purposes, being for a long time the decoration of clothes of different peoples. Embroidery brings an element of nationality into clothes, gives it elegance, solemnity and even rigor. Embroidery can be the center of the composition of the product. The type of embroidery is determined by the purpose of the product. Currently, in the mass production of clothing, machine embroidery is mainly used. Embroidery with beads, glass beads, sequins, sequins is used to a limited extent and only in elegant clothes.

The application can be made on a special machine with a zigzag stitch, glue method and welding. When performing applications by welding, the pattern made on the film is welded to the material. The development of the technology of the adhesive method has significantly reduced the time for this type of finishing and opened up a wide possibility of using it in the mass production of children's, teenage and leisure wear. The drawing of the application and the emblem must correspond to the purpose of the product, the age of the consumer.

The emblems are widely used in sportswear, leisurewear, children's and teens' clothing.

Finishes of the 6th group are used in elegant, sports and casual clothes. Finishes from materials other than decorative also have a utilitarian value. Thus, the use of leather straps and cuffs in a fur coat increases the wear resistance of the product, the use of knitted trim in an artificial leather product increases the breathability of the product and provides greater freedom of movement. Removable details from finishing materials allow you to wear the same product in different versions.

Finishing parts with a printed pattern (6th group of finishes) with its transfer by the paraphase method can be successfully used in the manufacture of products from light synthetic fabrics, especially from fabrics containing acetate fibers, where, due to the high fraying of sections and increased thread expansion, it is difficult to use other types of finishes.

The use of several types of finishes in one product requires their coordination in order not to violate the integrity of the compositional solution.

Classification of types of finishing of garments.

Surface finishing of materials and products using adhesive materials.

Chemical methods to give various surface effects to clothing items.

Finishing the details of garments made of thermoplastic materials with welded stitches and seams.

Chemical methods of volumetric finishing of clothes.

Chemical technology for obtaining clothing accessories.

Wardrobe finishing of garments.

Consumer properties of garments are inextricably linked with the coloristic and artistic design of materials and clothing details.

Finishing parts, assemblies, products is aimed at increasing the artistic expressiveness of clothing and giving it a marketable appearance (lecture 1). This group of chemical technology methods began to form much earlier than the others.

Jewelry appeared before the costume. At first, man began to paint himself with material extracted from the earth, plants, and animals. Later, the Indians began to apply an ornament in the form of a tattoo on the body, which had long been kept on the skin.

Some nationalities emphasized the expressiveness of their body by artificial deformation (increase or decrease) of its individual parts, which can be considered an impetus for the deformation of materials used in the manufacture of clothing. Thus, all methods of decorating the human body: drawing, color, deformation of its parts, hanging decorations that existed before the advent of clothing were transferred to clothing.

Clothing, and in particular its decoration, has gone through a number of stages of its historical development. Currently, the range of clothing finishes is very large.

All types of finishes according to the method of their manufacture can be conditionally divided into 3 groups:

Surface finish;

Volumetric finish;

Additional accessories (removable finishing details).

TO superficial include finishes made directly on the surface of clothing parts, the spatial shape of the material of the product does not change.

Volumetric finishing provides a three-dimensional shape of the product and its individual parts by changing the spatial arrangement of the material of the product. Volumetric finishing can be conditionally divided into movable and fixed. A fixed finish is such a three-dimensional form that does not change and is usually fixed with the help of additional materials (threads, gaskets, adhesives): puffs, tucks, decorative quilting. Movable volumetric finish provides some freedom to change the original shape: draperies, folds, etc.

There are finishes made mainly by mechanical means, i.e. achieved by physical influences (thread, riveting connection, heat treatment), and finishing, the operations of which are associated with the impact chemicals and processes(Fig. 1).

The adhesive method of manufacturing finishes (appliqués, emblems) consists in the fact that the fabric intended for obtaining finishing elements is combined and pressed with an adhesive cobweb, adhesive mesh or film on a press or iron, using a fluoroplastic film as an iron. After that, cut or cut out (depending on the available equipment) trim piece of a given configuration, which is attached to the parts by heat treatment.

In products made of cotton fabrics, the material for application is duplicated with a polyethylene film on a press at a temperature of 1205 0 C, a pressure of 0.05 0.01 MPa and exposure time 35 5 s.

To attach the appliqué to the base material, BF-6 glue can be used: the part of the fabric appliqué is moistened, allowed to dry slightly, two layers of glue are applied, allowing each layer to dry. The application is applied with a surface on the front side of the part and glued on a press or iron (pressing surface temperature 150-180 0 C, ironing 160-190 0 C, pressure 0.01-0.05 MPa, pressing time 20-90 s, depending on the type fabrics).

Hot melt embroidery It is carried out on an embroidery fabric in the form of blanks-embroideries, the front side of which is obtained with silk threads, and the wrong side - with a glue thread. The blank-embroidery is made on a special heat-resistant fabric substrate, which is completely destroyed when glued. The remains of the destroyed structure of the auxiliary substrate are removed. Gluing the workpiece is carried out on the details of the cut or on finished products using a press or iron at a temperature of 150-170 0 C and a pressure of 0.02-0.05 MPa for 5-50 s.

Adhesive embroideries, appliqués are resistant to cotton and washing.