Breast darts on the dress. Translation of the chest tuck

My teaching activity makes me think, doubt and look for the best ways of explaining: how to build this or that node. Not all techniques give the same successful result for different types of figures.

And at the same time, it makes no sense to look for the most accurate and successful. The very formulation of the question is amateurish. I try to explain and show with examples: all methods are good when you understand the design principle. At the same time, none is perfect.

Let's look at the construction of the "tuck solution on the bulge of the chest" knot in women's basic shoulder designs.

I recorded a short video tutorial for you with explanations and an "explanatory note" in the form of this article.

How the solution of the chest tuck is determined in different design methods.

The complexity of this node is due to the fact that it is impossible to measure a physical indicator on the body in a direct way. Sometimes in the author's methods attempts are made to determine it indirectly, but it turns out only approximately and approximately. There are no anchor points!

And I tell students that the pattern of the basic foundation is easy: “measured - drew”. In fact. so it is in all methods, but taking into account the nuances.

If you learn more than one or two design techniques, you will be surprised how similar they are to each other in basic principles: building a drawing grid and limiting structural areas to verticals and horizontals.

But it is surprising how differently the tuck looks and is calculated for the bulge of the chest. It can be built from the line of the middle of the shelf (EMKO SEV), from the armhole (Zlachevskaya G.M.), but the most common option is the location of the tuck from the shoulder cut. The top of the tuck is always directed towards the center of the chest (CG, VG, VTG - different names for one point).

building a basic framework according to Zlachevskaya

building a basic framework for EMKO SEV

For example, in the method of G.M. Zlachevskaya uses two measurements of chest width: 1) along the convex part of the chest and 2) above the chest. If you correctly took the measurements of the SHG and SHG control, then the pattern will turn out to be quite accurate.

In the "Muller and Son" method, the algorithm for constructing a chest tuck uses a formula that takes into account chest girth, but does not take into account the fullness of the chest.
1/10 POG (chest half circumference third). And often the solution is insufficient. Individual fit has to be adjusted: add 1-2 cm to the calculation formula.

A more complicated way and a more accurate construction is described in the EMKO TSOTSHL method. Two measurements of chest girth are involved in the calculations: SG 1 and SG 2.

The depth of the tuck is determined by the formula

2 (SG2-SG1) + 2 cm

Yes. The EMCO TSOTSHL method is more accurate, but it is also more complex. More complex measurements, more reservations, tabular increments and conditions when building nodes.

construction of a tuck according to the TsOTSHL method

construction of a tuck according to the method of Muller and son

The technique of the French designer Lin Jacques has found fans because of the simplicity of explanation and construction. There are no complicated measurements and formulas. Take the depth of the tuck from the plate according to the exhaust gas measurement. Rather, determine approximately in the interval between the OG indicators of your size (here the “run-up” between the measurements is as much as 10 cm).
Literally, the book says this: “The solution of the chest tuck cannot be determined by measuring on the figure or by a simple proportional calculation based on a number of measurements. This value is taken based on the OG.

In addition, the depth of the tuck is adjusted depending on the posture.
If the shoulders are tilted back, and the chest protrudes forward, then the solution is increased by 1-2 cm
if the shoulders are tilted forward, and the width of the chest is small, then the solution should be reduced by 1-2 cm "

chest tuck solution according to the Lin Jacque method

building a basic framework according to Lin Jacques

Very similarly, the English technique of Winfred Aldrich solves the problem of finding a solution for a chest tuck. The solution of the chest tuck is determined in a tabular way. The data in the table looks very believable for standard figures. In general, this is a very good, solid and simple technique for beginners. For figures with postural features, you should take not standard measurements, but real ones.

building a basic framework according to W. Aldrich

chest tuck solution according to the English method

I will not be able to consider all the diversity of the design world in a short article. It touched upon only the most popular methods in the former CIS, translated into Russian.

And for dessert - Chinese design methods, completely unusual for us.

Practicing designers in China use a small number of dimensional features and calculated proportional construction.
The structures are simple. First, a base is built without darts, and only then darts are applied to the base base.
Many Chinese methods use the principle of a right triangle, in which one of the legs is always 15 cm, and the second leg is a floating value X. This value is determined by the calculation method, depending on the construction node.

To determine the value of X when building a chest tuck:

(OG 3 – OG 5) / 2

Og 3 is the girth of the chest at the convex points, recorded in full size. Dimensional sign Og5 measured immediately after measurement Og3 , placing a centimeter tape on the back in the same place, and lowering it lower in front, under the base of the mammary glands.

Given the relation ( 15: X ) , you can build a tuck on any site

shelves, directing it to the side, neck, armhole, shoulder, side or waist sections.

building a basic framework according to Chinese methods

comparison of the depth of the tuck by different methods with the same physical indicators.

I hope I was able to interest you in the material. Design by yourself! It's not as difficult as it seems at first. But not easy either!

If you can’t master designing on your own from books or purchased discs, then come to me at.

I know the reason for your failures. I say this with complete confidence. There is only one condition in my courses: to work! The way I do it - with passion and without laziness.

Honestly, I did not even expect so many comments, questions, letters and orders! I am very happy with everything that is happening, as I have so many like-minded people and students. Let's develop and move only forward!

However, I will postpone the 3d pattern lessons for a bit and go back to the basics. Without them, nowhere. Therefore, I suggest that you familiarize (for experienced) and study (for beginners) a series of articles about the transfer of tucks. The series, since it fits into one article with all the modeling options, is simply not realistic 🙂

And I propose the topic not by chance, because during my “absence” on the blog, I often received letters in the mail with the question “how to transfer the tuck?”. You have seen more than once in the video tutorials on building patterns how this is done, but somehow I couldn’t structure everything. I hope now it will be easier for you to find what interests you.

Transferring the chest tuck

Most often, in order to create some beautiful pattern, we need to transfer the chest tuck, since in the basic dress pattern it is not very original.

Option number 1. Transfer of the chest tuck to the tuck at the waist.

Such a move is very useful when you are building a product cut off at the waist. From above the tuck leaves, and down from the chest there is a seam to the waist. An example of such a translation can be seen on this dress:

And now how to make a transfer of the tuck from the chest to the waist:

And this is what should happen:

Remove the line along the "former" chest tuck. They won't be needed anymore.

You can see how to make such a tuck in the article "" + video lesson (translation of the tuck at about 11:36 min.).

This option is convenient in detachable models because the lower part of the tuck at the waist is not taken into account here. Therefore, the bottom is easier to separate, and then sew on top.

Option number 2. Transfer of the chest tuck to the side seam.

It is quite difficult to find examples of such a translation of tucks - they are very hard to see. But it helps when the tuck needs to be kept for volume. That is, do not delete at all, but only hide.

With this modeling of the tuck, we transfer the chest tuck into the side seam, and with the tuck at the waist, we have two options:

leave it in place (convenient for a tight-fitting dress);
remove the tuck (for free cut);
transfer the upper part of the tuck to the chest, then transfer the general tuck to the side seam, and transfer the lower part to the side seam (remove, and remove the size of the opening of the tuck from the side, connect it to the thigh line).

Now step by step how to translate the tuck:

As a result, this is what happens:

Remember now what the tuck looks like? By the way, you can see how it is built (+ video).

Option number 3. Transfer of the chest tuck into the armhole of the sleeve

Another such translation of the tuck is called the translation of the tuck into relief. Since the details are cut out separately and sewn according to the type of relief, and not with a regular seam. That is, they sewed the sides as usual, turned one side away and laid a line along the front side. Such a translation looks very beautiful, both on dresses and on blouses, and of course on jackets.

The algorithm for transferring the tuck to the armhole of the sleeve:

And what to do with the tuck at the waist is up to you. You can cut the dress to the bottom line (we lower the perpendicular from the end of the tuck at the waist) or leave it as it is.

You can see an example of converting a tuck into a relief (+ video lesson).

Option number 4. Translation of the chest tuck into the neck

Translation into the neck the same can come out in a very interesting way. It can be simply translated (according to the type of relief), or it can be arranged both in the form of folds and in the form of assemblies. As you wish 🙂

An example of the simplest translation in this dress

Fashion is stepping forward day by day, the style and style of women's dresses is changing. The new models are slightly embellished, but the basic pattern remains the same.

Nowadays, it is quite difficult to look irresistible and have in your wardrobe that thing that only you will have, as stores are overflowing with monotonous styles of dresses. But there is a way out of this situation - to sew the model you like on your own from the fabric you like. And this thing will be in a single copy, that is, you will definitely not meet a girl in the same dress anywhere and will not find yourself in an awkward situation.

Many believe that this is impossible, but this opinion is erroneous. There is no difficulty to create your own wardrobe, and therefore save a lot of money spent on exclusive fashion items.

Dress patterns are known only in two versions - these are simple and complex models. For beginners, it is best to start sewing with simple things. First of all, they can be worn both everyday and for any celebration. Secondly, they will never go out of fashion. Simple dress patterns for beginners can be found in our article.

Rules for taking measurements

Starting to create a pattern, you need to remove the dimensions from the model.

Half neck. It is necessary to measure the base of the neck and write down the size of half of the measured measurement. That is, if you get 36 cm, then you need to write down 18 cm.
Half bust. We measure along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades and the high part of the chest. This measurement is responsible for the size of your figure. It is also necessary to write down half.
Waist, half-girth. It is necessary to measure the narrowest place at the waist, we also write down half of the resulting size.
Hips, half-girth. We measure by protruding gluteal points. It is worth considering the bulge of the abdomen. The measurement is also recorded by half of the result.
We measure the height of the back to the waist line. We start the measurement from the seventh cervical vertebra, it is noticeable along the ledge, to the waist line. In this case, the measurement is recorded in full.
Back width. On the protruding points of the shoulder blades, we measure the width of the back, from one axillary zone to another. As a measure, half of the result is recorded.
We measure the height from the front to the waist line. On the protruding point of the chest, starting from the base of the neck at the shoulder, to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full size.
Chest height. We put the edge of the measuring tape at the base of the neck and measure the height to the high point of the chest. Write down the measurements in full.
Center point of the chest. We measure horizontally between two high points of the chest. The measurement is recorded by half of the result.
Determine the length of the shoulder. Measure from the base of the neck to the joint of the shoulder. Record the measurement in full.
Arm circumference. It is necessary to measure the circumference of the arm near the armpit. The measure is fully taken into account.
Wrist circumference. The wrist joint is measured in circumference. The marker is fully used.
We measure the length of the sleeve to the elbow. It is measured starting from the joint on the shoulder and descending to the elbow. We record the measure in full.
The length of the sleeve. It is necessary to measure, also starting from the joint on the shoulder and descending to the hand. The marker is fully used.
We determine the length of the product. It is necessary to measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the required finished length. The measure is also used in full.
Free Fit Additions:

Chest line - 5 cm.
Waist - 1 cm.
Hips - 2 cm.

Building a pattern

To build a dress pattern for beginners, you need to use a large sheet of paper. If not, then you can take unnecessary leftovers from the wallpaper.

On the left, set aside the length of your dress, for the convenience of work, step back a couple of centimeters from the edge. Mark the pending length with points A (top) and H (bottom). Draw perpendicular lines to the right of points A and H.

Determine the width of the dress pattern

To do this, from point A to the right side, set aside the measurement "half-girth of the chest" and plus an increase in the chest line of 5 cm, put point B. We put the same measurement from point H towards the right and get point H1, connect points B and H1 with a straight line . As a result, you should get a rectangle.

We measure the length of the back to the waist

It is necessary from point A to measure down the size to the waist of the length of the back, adding half a centimeter, and mark with a point T. From the resulting point to the right, draw a perpendicular to the line B and H1 and mark the intersection with point T1.

Define the line of the hips

We measure from the point T in the downward direction half of the measurement "to the waist of the back length" and mark it with point B. Also, from the obtained point, we draw a perpendicular to the right to the line B and H1, we denote the intersection point B1.

Determining the width of the back

From point A to the right, we measure the "width of the back" + an increase along the back line of 1.5 centimeters and set point A1. From it down we draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.

We measure the width of the armhole

It is necessary to divide the measurement "half-girth of the chest" into 4 parts + 0.5 cm, put the result to the right of point A1 and put point A2. Draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary length from point A2 down.

Determine the cut of the neck from the back

Divide the “half-girth of the neck” measure into three parts and add half a centimeter, put the result from point A to the right, mark with point A3. Next, we divide the measurement "half circumference of the neck" into 10 parts plus 0.8 cm and measure the result from point A3 upwards, we get point A4. The resulting angle at point A3 must be divided in half by a straight line and the result should be postponed on it: divide the half-girth of the neck by 10 and minus 0.3 cm, we get point A5. Next, we connect the obtained points A4, A5 and A with a smooth line.

We build a shoulder cut

For high shoulders, it is necessary to postpone 1.5 cm from point A1 down, for normal - 2.5 cm, sloping - 3.5 cm, mark with a point P. We connect points A4 and P. The length of the shoulder plus tuck 2 cm is set aside from point A4, put point P1. On the obtained segment A4P1, we set aside 4 cm from the point A4 and mark it with a point O. From the obtained point we measure 8 cm downwards and mark it with a point O1 and to the right of the point O 2 cm, we mark it with a point O2. We connect points O1 and O2. Through the point O2, we set aside from the point O1 a size equal to the length of the segment OO1 - 8 cm, mark the point O3. This is necessary so that the darts on the dress are equal. Point O3 and P1 are connected by a straight line.

Determining the depth of the hole

We divide the half-girth of the chest into 4 parts plus 7 cm, measure the result obtained from the point P downwards, mark the point G. Draw a horizontal line through this point to the right and left sides. At the intersection with the line B and H1, we mark the point G3, with the armhole line - G2, and at the intersection with the line A and H we put the point G1.

Back, armhole cut

We divide the distance from point P to G into three parts and plus 2 cm, measure the result obtained from point G upwards, mark with point P2. Divide the measurement "armhole width" by 10 and +1.5 cm, put the result from point G, dividing the angle in half, mark point P3. The segment GG2 is divided into 2 parts and marked with a point G4. Next, we connect the points P1, P2, P3, G4 with a curved line.

Armhole, cut front half

Divide the measure "half chest circumference" into 4 parts plus 5 cm, put the result from the G2 point upwards and mark it with the P4 point. Divide the half-girth of the chest by 10, put the result from the point P4 towards the left and mark it with the point P5. Divide the G2P4 segment by 3 and measure the result from the G2 point upwards. We connect the points P5 and P6 with each other, divide into two parts and in the direction to the right, observing a right angle, measure 1 cm and mark point 1. Divide the angle from point G2 in half and measure a line equal to a tenth of the measurement "armhole width" +0.8 cm, mark with a point P7. We connect the obtained points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 with a curved line.

Front neckline

Divide in half the measurement "half circumference of the chest" +1.5 cm, mark on the pattern from point G3 upwards and mark with point B1. We measure exactly the same distance from point G2 upwards and mark point B2. The resulting points B1, B2 connect with each other. Divide the measure "half circumference of the neck" by three and +0.5 cm, measure from point B1 in the direction to the left and mark with point B3. Divide the same measurement "neck half-girth" by three and +2 cm, measure downward from point B1 and mark point B4. We connect the obtained points and divide the segment into 2 parts. We again take the measurement "neck half circumference" +1 cm and draw a straight line along the point of division of the segment B3 and B4 from the central point B1, we get point B5. We connect the points B3, B5, B4 with a curved line, we get the line of the neck of the front pattern.

Center and chest height

We use the size of the center of the chest, measure it from the G3 point to the left, we get the G6 point. From the obtained point we draw a line intersecting with the line B1B2. At the intersection we get point B6. From it, in the downward direction, we measure the height of the chest, we get the point G7.

Construction of tucks, types

Shoulder cut and chest tuck. Why are tucks needed on the chest of the product? The thing is that the darts on the chest on the dress are placed so that the dress has a shape in the place of a convex chest, which is why they began to be called chest darts. They can have their origin from the side cut, shoulder, from the neck or from the armhole. The place of their beginning depends on the chosen model of the dress and, of course, on the volume of the chest. Their direction is always only towards the center of the chest, this should be taken into account when constructing a pattern.

We measure from point B6 downwards 1 cm and mark point B7. We connect B3 and B7. We connect B7 and P5 with a dotted line. Having measured the segment B7B3 minus 0.3 cm, we measure the resulting result from P5 towards the right and get point B8.

We measure the segment V7G7 from point G7 through the resulting point B8 and set B9. Connect P5 and B9.

Side seam, define the line

In the direction to the right, we measure from G the third part of the measurement "width of the armhole", mark with a point G5. Draw a vertical line through it. When crossing on the armhole line, mark the point P, on the waist line - point T2, the hip line - B2, and the bottom - H2.

Darts on the dress on the back along the waistline

We build further. The darts located at the waist of the dress are called waist darts. They are necessary to create a fit of the dress in the waist area. They can be located both on the whole part of the back or front, and on separate sewn parts, in these cases they are cut-off, in addition, the tucks can be on the cut line of the armhole. Many use darts on waist products, whether it be a skirt or trousers, they are also referred to as waist darts.

Measure "half +1 cm for freedom of fit minus the width of the dress (in our case, this is the TT1 line) - this will give us the width of the tuck on the dress.

hip line

To the measure "half the circumference of the hips" +2 cm for freedom of fit minus the width of the dress B1B along the hip line. The result is divided into 2 parts, one of which is used on the front half, the second - on the back of the product. Measures to the right and to the left the result obtained from point B2 and mark with points B3 and B4. We mark the same distance from point T2 in two directions along a horizontal line and put points T3, T4. You should connect the point P with T4 and T3. We connect T3, B4, and B3, T4 with a dotted line. Away from the division of the points, we measure half a centimeter and connect with a curved line and points T4, B3 and the second side of B4, T3.

Waistline at the front

We add 0.5 cm to the measure "front waist length" and set aside the result from point B1 downwards, we get point T5. We connect points T4, T5 with a curved line. Measure the segment T5 T1 and lay it down from point B1, we get point B5. We connect point B5 and point B3 with a curved line.

Back darts

Divide the segment G1G in half and mark the middle of the segment with a point G8. From it downwards, lower the perpendicular and at the intersection with the hip line, put point B6, and with the waist line - T6. From point T6, it is necessary to set aside half the width of the back tuck to the right and left, marking with points T7, T8. After that, from point G8, measure down 1 cm and connect to point T7, upward from point B6 3 cm and connect to point T8.

Cut-outs on the front

Draw a straight vertical line from point G6 down to the line of the hips. The point on the waist line, where the vertical line crosses it, is denoted by T9, on the hip line - B7. Set aside half the width of the front tuck from point T9 and mark it with points T10, T11. From B7 upwards we measure 4 cm and connect this point with T11, and from G7 down 4 cm and connect the resulting point with T10.

Bottom line of the front half

From points B4 and B3 from the line of the hips, we draw perpendicular lines to the bottom line and mark them with points H4, H3. Remember: if your dress expands to the bottom, from the points obtained, you need to set aside segments to the right and left, equal to 3 cm to 7 cm, and connect them to B4, B3. From the point H1 down we measure the length of the segment T5T1 and mark it with the point H5. It remains to connect the obtained points H5 and H3.

This is just building the base of a simple dress, thanks to which you can model your exclusive model. Darts will become assistants. How to make darts on a dress? Let's consider them in more detail.

Variety of darts on the dress

A tuck is that part of the fabric that needs to be removed to emphasize the figure and a smooth transition from one convex zone to another.

Darts on the dress are found in two main types. The first option is tucks with one vertex, which look like a triangle, while their shape will never change, only size and depth can be changed. The wide base of the tuck triangle is always located on a convex zone, for example, it is a female breast or a convex thigh line. The second option is darts with two peaks. They look like two folded triangles, while they have one vertex. Two peaks are used in cases with solid parts of the back and front of the product, located on the waist line.

Embossed tucks on the dress perfectly accentuate the bust. They support it from below, the best option for using them in clothes is a dense fabric. Larger chest means more bulge must be given to the tuck. To the center of the chest, the pattern should be the most convex part. Embossed types of darts on the dress are located both vertically on the product, and can be made from the armpit. This will give your breasts fullness and tautness.

The side tuck on the dress is called the breast or tuck along the chest line. It is located more often at the waist in front and behind the product - the dress. There are also models with tucks that start from the side seam. The darts on the dress are located at the same distance from the center of the front of the dress and two from the center of the back of the product.

How to make darts on the finished dress?

If the dress you bought does not sit well on you or you want to further emphasize your figure, then you can make auxiliary tucks on the finished product. To do this, put on your dress, look in front of the mirror where exactly you want to remove excess fabric, and mark the place of the tuck with soap on the wrong side. Observe symmetry: if you remove the excess on the right, then on the left you need to remove the same amount of fabric into the tuck.

Sweep the intended darts and try on the product. Didn't work the first time? Try a few times and then you will find the exact places of the excess fabric. If there is no desire and opportunity to redo it yourself, seek help from a clothing repair studio.

Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

Building a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR WAY (for beginners)

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Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since we have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

SO IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new easy way (I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for constructing a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all sorts of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I will not give you a single ready-made pattern!

I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character lies in the fact ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me, it is.

Yes- sewing by yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes yourself.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricacies of the numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WON'T TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch fear and make a girl doubt her own abilities, who really wants to make a dress- But I was not very friendly in my school years with geometry and drawing. Even I - who loves both of these school subjects - beat around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long does it take to draw this, and you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in the letters ... ".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you can see a piece of it from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering and design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

No obscure formulas
No messy calculations.
And without the letter-number cobweb.

Well, how? Have I removed a bit of your concerns?

I now relax - we will not start drawing right now. To begin with, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get acquainted, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, it is a cast from your body. This is your personal imprint. Any thing sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit perfectly on YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All-all models of dresses - are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove to you with an example. Even on three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits perfectly on the figure). Dress made according to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual pattern-base. You see, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any, any) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free topic.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day the fashion designer thought...“But what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - fig. below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping opposite triangles (red outlines - fig. below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a base pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just a lot of fantasy.

By the way - since we are talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “But what if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the line of the shoulder longer so that it hangs on the arm. And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And very simple.

You can do that too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist.

That is why I don't want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (such as “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point ...” - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you chuechka. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. And learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any, even intricately tailored, dress.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk along the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way.

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel the joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the wise man said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us.

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - a base pattern. Tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and well-known simple pattern - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what are these halves for, and where to apply them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both half of the back and half of the front. So to speak - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in the Potnovsky language, the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these very shelves of the front and back. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two obscure words: TRUCK And ARMHOLE.

Of course, you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, get acquainted - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size an armhole that fits you—when the armhole doesn't pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains acceptable minimum armhole size. You can model the armhole to your taste, any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be less than on the base pattern. That is, an armhole on a pattern basis - These are the limits beyond which your imagination should not intercede.

Your model armhole can be arbitrarily larger - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. Here is a rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the tucks.

BACK PATCHES - shoulder darts + waist darts

Here in the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder tuck on this dress. And on many dresses, too, it is not. Because for convenience and beauty, this tuck is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the tuck. And the extra fabric cut off in a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are optional if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Next, let's get to know… HALF FRONT darts

Oh, you could write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain it more clearly - what it is for and what laws it lives by. I thought and thought ... and came up with.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, the front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. The tuck on the shoulder of the front gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example - this flat circle of cardboard, with the help of a tuck, will now become convex.

And here is how the chest tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You noticed that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the point of the tuck. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw a tuck for the chest, the tip of our tuck will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you measured a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely warped on your chest - this is because the tuck in the dress was directed with its tip past top of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. Not under your breast shape, this product was cut at the factory.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest tuck is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. It's made for beauty. The tuck on the shoulder is more conspicuous, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest tuck on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the tuck from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest tuck from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?))) Whether there will be more ... We continue our walk along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the line of the chest. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We'll sew it with you. Don't even hesitate)

The chest line is the most wonderful line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate it when drawing a base pattern, because:

We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck of the back on the chest line.
We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
We know that the shoulder tuck is the front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the line of the chest (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these alphanumeric dots).

As you can see, there are a lot!! Therefore, go ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))

AND WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASIS? - you ask

And we will begin to sew according to the pattern-base of TOPS. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You ask: "Hey, why not just dresses?". I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle, so to be continued)))

Good luck with your sewing!

23:40 unknown 15 Comments

Hello, in this article we will consider one of the methods of constructive modeling - changing the volumetric shape of the basic design of the dress by remodeling the chest tuck and the shoulder tuck of the back.

Some models of shoulder clothing are more voluminous in comparison with the basic design of the dress. One way to obtain such a shape from a basic design is constructive modeling. With an increase in volume, the nature of the supporting surfaces changes - the gap between the figure and clothing along the chest line increases, which leads to a greater detachment of the side sections of the back and front from the surface of the figure. In other words, the curvature of the surface decreases in front at the level of the chest line and on the back in the area of the shoulder blades, and the product turns out to be flatter, not emphasizing the chest.

Structurally, such a model form is achieved by reducing the openings of the upper tuck in the front and the shoulder tuck in the back, up to their complete elimination by unmodeling the base tucks.
Under tuck demodeling understand the translation of any part of the solution into sections of the product (armhole, neck, bottom line, etc.) in order to lengthen these sections, which allows you to get a flatter shape that does not emphasize the shape of the body.

I propose to consider how to properly unmodel tucks. To begin with, we will transfer the details of the basic design of the dress to a blank sheet of paper and be sure to mark the control points of the armhole.

As a rule, darts are not used in three-dimensional products (depending on the model of the product). Therefore, we can simply remove the tucks along the waistline on the shelf and back. Depending on the model and style of the product, the solution of traveling tucks along the side sections of both parts is reduced partially or completely, in accordance with this, new side sections are built. If there is a notch along the waist line on the middle line of the back, then this tuck can also be removed and a new middle section of the back can be drawn.

Well, now let's move on to unmodeling the tucks.

shelf modeling
To perform modeling on the drawing of the shelf, we will build auxiliary lines to those sections where it is possible to unmodel the share of the chest tuck:
in the middle line- the auxiliary line is built from the top of the chest tuck to the line of the middle of the shelf at a right angle;
in the armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the chest tuck to the line of the armhole of the shelf 1-2 cm above the control point;
in the bottom line- from the top of the chest tuck, a vertical line is built to the line of the bottom of the shelf.

Thus, we can unmodel the chest tuck: into the shoulder line, into the middle line, into the armhole line and into the bottom line of the shelf.
Let's consider several options for unmodeling the chest tuck.

First way
Let's cut the detail of the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the bottom line.

Let's translate the solution of the chest tuck:
in the armhole line can be remodeled up to 2cm,
in the line of the shoulder- up to 1 cm,
the rest is unmodeled in the bottom line shelves.

When translating the tuck, the cuts were broken, we will draw a new shoulder line, armhole line and bottom line.

And so, we got a shelf without a chest tuck.

Since we unmodeled the tuck into the shoulder line by up to 1 cm, accordingly, the shoulder line lengthened by this amount. If the model does not require it, this value is cut off from the end of the arm. We also lengthened the bottom line, that is, the shelf expanded to the bottom line. If such extension along the line of the bottom is not desired, then half or 2/3 of this extension can be removed from the lateral line.

Second way
This method is used if the product has a V-shaped neckline or a jacket-type collar.
We cut the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the midline.

Now you need to rotate the upper central part around the cut point on the midline so that the center of the chest drops by 0.5-1 cm. The rest of the tuck can be modeled into the armhole line, but the allowable value is up to 2 cm.

We draw a new section of the armhole, and a neck or collar is built along the middle line, in accordance with the model of the product. And again we got a shelf without a chest tuck.

Third way(unmodeling in the middle line)
If the shelf is not split or has a blind clasp, then you can use this method of modeling the chest tuck.
Let's cut the shelf detail along all constructed auxiliary lines.

This time, the upper part of the shelf must be lowered parallel to the cut line by up to 1 cm. In the line of the armhole we translate the solution of the chest tuck up to 2 cm, the rest - in the bottom line.

Having lowered the upper part of the shelf by up to 1 cm, we have shortened the line of the middle of the shelf by this amount. Therefore, it is necessary to lengthen the front by the amount of reduction of the shelf along the chest line. Then we will build a new armhole line and a bottom line.

The hem extension can also be reduced by removing half or 2/3 of this extension from the side cut.

back modeling
To model the shoulder tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades, we also need to build auxiliary lines to the cuts of the back:
to armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the shoulder undercut to the middle of the armhole section from the control point to the end shoulder point;
to the bottom line- the cut line is drawn first horizontally from the control point of the armhole for a length of 1.5-2 cm, and then vertically down.
Based on this, we can unmodel the shoulder tuck of the back into two zones: in the shoulder line and in the armhole line.

Let's cut the back detail along the auxiliary lines and translate the solution of the shoulder tuck:
in the line of the shoulder- by the same amount as on the shelf in order to maintain the fit (up to 1 cm)
in the armhole line- translate the rest of the tuck (up to 1-2cm).
In addition, along the bottom line, it is necessary to perform exactly the same expansion that we got on the shelf.

Let's draw new sections along the line of the shoulder, armhole and bottom. If on the shelf along the shoulder line the extension is cut off, which turned out after the chest tuck was unmodeled, then on the back it is also possible to cut off this extension from the end of the shoulder. It is also possible to leave the shoulder cut of the back longer than the line of the shoulder of the shelf; in the process of sewing, this difference is laid on the fit of the shoulder of the back.

Thus, we got a backrest pattern without a shoulder tuck.

In products with split back along the middle line, another zone is possible into which a part of the shoulder tuck can be unmodeled - this is the middle line of the back. On this section of the back, it is permissible to unmodel up to 0.6 cm of the shoulder tuck.

In this case, the neckline of the backrest becomes wider by this amount. If, according to the model of the product, expansion of the neck is not desirable, then the line of the shoulder from the side of the neck can be extended by the amount of expansion of the neck, and the same amount can be cut off from the end of the shoulder. Next, new sections of the neck and armholes of the back are built.

Sleeve modeling
When remodeling the chest tuck and the shoulder tuck of the back on both parts, the armhole lengthened. Therefore, we need to change the sleeve sleeve. To do this, on the sleeve pattern, we will build two cut lines. The first line runs perpendicular to the elbow line from the top of the elbow tuck to the hem of the sleeve.

We will construct the second line as follows: measure the length of the eye from the first line to the line of the middle of the sleeve. The resulting value will be set aside along the rim from the middle line to the side of the front cut of the sleeve. The line of the bottom of the sleeve in the area from the front cut to the middle line is divided in half.

We connect the obtained points with a straight line, which will be the second line of the cut.

We cut the sleeve along the constructed lines.

Now we expand our sleeve along the rim in such a way that the expansion is equal to the amount of tuck unmodeling into the armhole of the front and back minus 0.5-1 cm. be careful, the amount of tuck demodeling on both parts is different, but we subtract 0.5-1 cm from each value. How much to subtract depends on how wide the sleeve needs to be.

We draw up a new eye line with a rise along the middle line by 1-2 cm.

And our sleeve pattern for the new armhole is ready.

When unmodeling the chest tuck, you should be aware that it is not possible to achieve a good fit on a figure with a large chest (size 52+) in products with a set-in sleeve without a chest tuck. Therefore, it is better to limit the demodeling of the chest tuck to size 52.
In conclusion, I will add: the shape of the product without chest and shoulder darts can be obtained not only by modeling the basic design, but also by building such a design right away, with an extension of the armhole, an extension of the front line and an expansion of the shoulder line. But more on that in future posts!