How to shrink a men's leather briefcase. How to choose a leather briefcase? Now it is necessary to note each point in more detail ...

If one of the components
your profession is to maintain the image of a successful person, then
here you can not save on a single detail of the wardrobe. Especially on such
important as .

Many business people say that
is the first thing they notice after shoes
interlocutor, because this attribute can tell a lot about your
owner. For price and quality, you can easily determine the level
a person's income, his status, and sometimes even his character.

So,
which one to choose so that it matches your financial
wishes, and also testified of you as a reliable and
promising partner.

Material

Come from
synthetic fabrics, leatherette", as well as skin. If you are counting on
building successful business relationships with reputable people, about the first two
points when choosing this is better to forget. Although
modern technologies make it possible to make leatherette products very
skin-like, strong and durable like any other
advantages of genuine leather, they will not differ.

A leader or even a middle manager starting his career can only be made of leather!

For the manufacture of calfskin, pigskin, leather
ostrich, etc. But whatever type of skin you choose, it is desirable that
it was well finished, smooth or fine-grained, which gives it
strength and durability and ideal for business and
cases.

Its wear resistance depends on the processing of the leather.
For example, surface lamination is used to make
almost impermeable skin. Lamination should be no more than
one third of the coating thickness.

An intermediate place between
leatherette and leather takes a special material, which is obtained by
grinding pieces of leather, which are then mixed with glue and
rolled out into a thin sheet. Do not believe if they tell you that he
has the durability of a natural material. Also less durable
thin leather or leather with artificial abrasions. However, such
design (experts call it "vintage") is considered very fashionable and
may even indicate the good taste of the owner.

It is believed that quality Leather Products can only be
Italian and Spanish production. It is related to the old
traditions that have been used in southern Europe for many centuries.

Quality

So that it would not be excruciatingly painful for uselessly spent money, with
selection, attention should be paid to the following
characteristics:

Functionality. it should be
roomy, but not like a suitcase. Those. it should
Easily fit A4 paper and also needed in your
profession things: mobile phone, plastic cards, floppy disks…
Modern manufacturers have taken care of daily needs
consumers, providing many special pockets for
individual accessories. For those who travel frequently
more "mobile" bags- with compartments for tickets, boarding
coupons, documents, etc.

The handle must be made of leather,
and not from vinyl or plastic, which manufacturers often sin. Also
you need to make sure it is securely fastened.

Line
- straight, with even stitches. Particular attention should be paid to
stitch inside. As a rule, there it is executed less neatly,
which is indicative of poor product quality. On inexpensive portfolios
also often there are seams with a small allowance, which can then
easy to disperse. The edges must be neatly cut and
processed with varnish or paint to match the product.

Accessories.
Inspect locks, fasteners, rings and make sure they are strong. Most
simple locks - magnetic and latched. Some will see them
impractical, but for soft, special protection is not needed:
ripping the skin or fabric for any intruder will not be difficult.
However, manufacturers often supply locks that
can be locked if necessary.

The classic of the "genre" when choosing always remains black. Although
on the market there are also portfolios of dark brown, red and
burgundy flowers. Remember, according to etiquette, the color of the briefcase must match
with shoe color.

Director General of the TV company "Russian
world" Vladimir Molchanov suggests paying attention not to skin color, but
for the overall color scheme. "From personal experience, I know that clothing
brown tones, black is inappropriate. You have to add at least
black shoes, black trouser belt and watch. The thin ones look ugly
small briefcases sagging from old age in the hands of respectable men in
no less respectable suits. And you can not stuff to capacity, which
you don’t have to carry important papers with you, otherwise it looks like
Soviet businessman," warns Vladimir Molchanov.

However, if you still cannot afford to have several
expensive to match the color of each pair of shoes, opt for
black - be that as it may, but this color is considered universal.
Some fashion designers allow the option when it can be "bright
spot" against the background of a strict dark suit.

Some interesting
psychological aspects when choosing a color

Men's leather briefcases are traditionally in demand by people who are related to the business, diplomatic or scientific environment. Leather briefcase, besides, it looks stylish and solid. There are models designed in a modern way, there are those whose style is timeless, therefore it is appropriate in both formal and informal settings. It is convenient to carry a laptop, documents, magazines in a briefcase - often men choose it as an everyday solution.

In this article, we will briefly describe what briefcases are in terms of design and in terms of differences between brands. And also find out what you should pay special attention to when buying a men's briefcase.


At first glance, the variety of portfolios is limited by their general "format". But in reality, artists and designers are finding ways to go beyond the known canon. First of all, briefcases differ in style: it can be a strict but modern business solution, a youth model or a classic antique leather briefcase. Each of these types has its own charm and its own priority qualities.


A youth leather briefcase should be stylish and lightweight, so as not to hamper the owner's mobility when he moves on foot. Modern, youthful design allows for bold colors, original textures, lined prints, and both sharp and rounded briefcase corners. For example, leather briefcases Giorgio Fedon 1919 or Porsche designn for young men, they are not only gray-black and brown, but even orange. In addition, a variant of a youth briefcase on a shoulder strap is possible - this solution looks like a briefcase bag with a handle. Another liberty inherent in the ultra-modern style - The briefcase can be closed with a zipper, a latch or a button.



Business leather briefcases for men, diplomat, for example, almost always follow strict classical form and have sharp or slightly rounded corners. Black and brown colors dominate, although in rare cases the briefcase can be matched specifically to the color of the suit. The key principle here is minimalism, lack of pretentiousness. At the same time, business style implies status decisions: the brand matters, but the main thing is that the thing looks high quality: in terms of materials, exterior and interior decoration, accessories.

Men's leather briefcase Montblanc or S.T.Dupont- a great example of an image business decision. Briefcases with interior trim made of fine polished leather (for example, suede) instead of fabric are considered especially chic. The compact size is not necessary - it all depends on your needs, but in any case, the business briefcase should be able to accommodate A4 documents with a margin. It is better to choose classic fasteners - in the form of a metal latch. It is not only aesthetic, but durable and reliable.

More budget options are offered by the brand Vasheron. Here are stylish blue briefcases. Such models will appeal to connoisseurs of the new classics.



Rounded corners and the presence of patch pockets are the hallmarks of men's casual style briefcases. Everyday solutions may look more or less formal, but their main point is to provide convenient carrying of things during trips around the city. Therefore, functional features come first. Such as the presence of additional compartments, pockets for small items, holders for writing instruments and a phone. Since the thing is designed for everyday use, the lower corners are often protected with metal plates. The colors of men's briefcases for every day are usually brown or black. However, just as in the case of youth models, there can be no strict restrictions here. For such portfolios, we turn to the collections of Brialdi and Piquadro brands.

GOST 28631-2005

Group M52

INTERSTATE STANDARD

BAGS, SUITCASES, BRIEFCASES, Knapsacks, FOLDERS, SMALL LEATHER GOODS

General specifications

Bags, cases, brief-cases, satchels, paper-cases, small leather goods.
General specifications


ISS 59.140.35
OKP 87 0000

Introduction date 2007-01-01

Foreword

The goals, basic principles and basic procedure for carrying out work on interstate standardization are established by GOST 1.0-92 "Interstate standardization system. Basic provisions" and GOST 1.2-97 "Interstate standardization system. Interstate standards, rules and recommendations for interstate standardization. The procedure for developing, adopting, application, renewal and cancellation

About the standard

1 DEVELOPED by the Federal State Unitary Enterprise "Central Research Institute of the Leather and Footwear Industry" (FSUE TsNIIKP)

2 INTRODUCED by the Federal Agency for Technical Regulation and Metrology

3 ADOPTED by the Interstate Council for Standardization, Metrology and Certification (minutes N 22 dated November 4, 2005)

Voted to accept:

Short name of the country according to MK (ISO 3166) 004-97

Country code according to MK (ISO 3166) 004-97

Abbreviated name of the national standards body

Azerbaijan

Azgosstandart

Armenia

Armstate standard

Belarus

State Standard of the Republic of Belarus

Georgia

Gruzstandard

Kazakhstan

State Standard of the Republic of Kazakhstan

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstandart

Moldova

Moldova-Standard

Russian Federation

Federal Agency for Technical Regulation and Metrology

Tajikistan

Tajikstandart

Turkmenistan

Main State Service "Turkmenstandartlary"

Uzbekistan

Uzgosstandart

Ukraine

State Standard of Ukraine

4 By order of the Federal Agency for Technical Regulation and Metrology dated May 10, 2006 N 91-st, the interstate standard GOST 28631-2005 was put into effect as the national standard of the Russian Federation from January 1, 2007.

5 INSTEAD OF GOST 28631-90


Information on the entry into force (termination) of this standard is published in the index "National Standards".

Information about changes to this standard is published in the index (catalog) "National Standards", and the text of the changes - in the information signs "National Standards". In case of revision or cancellation of this standard, the relevant information will be published in the information index "National Standards"

1 area of ​​use

1 area of ​​use

This standard applies to bags, suitcases, briefcases, school bags, folders, small leather goods (hereinafter referred to as products).

2 Normative references

This standard uses references to the following standards:

GOST 15.007-88 System for the development and production of products. light industry products. Key points

GOST 427-75 Measuring metal rulers. Specifications

GOST 13841-95 Corrugated cardboard boxes for chemical products. Specifications

GOST 17435-72 Drawing rulers. Specifications

GOST 18242-72 Statistical acceptance control by alternative attribute. Control plans*
________________
* On the territory of the Russian Federation, GOST R 50779.71-99 "Statistical methods. Sampling procedures by attribute. Part 1. Sampling plans for successive lots based on an acceptable quality level AQL" is in force.

GOST 18321-73 Statistical quality control. Methods for random selection of samples of piece products

GOST 25871-83 Leather goods. Packaging, marking, transportation and storage

GOST 28455-90 Leather goods. Terms and Definitions

GOST 29329-92 Scales for static weighing. General technical requirements

Note - When using this standard, it is advisable to check the validity of the reference standards according to the "National Standards" index, compiled as of January 1 of the current year, and according to the corresponding information indexes published in the current year. If the reference standard is replaced (modified), then when using this standard, you should be guided by the replaced (modified) standard. If the referenced standard is canceled without replacement, the provision in which the reference to it is given applies to the extent that this reference is not affected.

3 Terms and definitions

This standard uses the terms according to GOST 28455.

4 Classification, main parameters and dimensions

4.1 Products by type must comply with GOST 28455.

4.2 The dimensions of bags, suitcases, briefcases, knapsacks, folders, small leather goods should be indicated in the technical description.

Permissible deviations in the size of small leather goods - ± 5 mm, other products - ± 10 mm.

4.3 The sizes of covers for documents and certificates must be indicated in the technical description.

Permissible deviations in the dimensions of the product in the open form along the length - ± 5 mm, along the height - ± 3 mm.

5 General technical requirements

5.1 Products must be manufactured in accordance with the requirements of this standard, technical descriptions and technologies approved in the prescribed manner, standard sample in accordance with GOST 15.007.

5.1.1 Technical descriptions should contain:

- product name, model number;

- description of the design, manufacturing method, internal and external design of the product;

- used materials and fittings with indication of the normative document;

- dimensions of the product (if necessary - the rules for their measurement);

- a lot of knapsacks;

- photo or sketch of the product;

- packaging requirements.

5.2 Material requirements

For the manufacture of products, natural, artificial and synthetic leather, fabrics, plastics, polyvinyl chloride film, cardboard, fiber, materials for knitting and weaving, other materials and accessories are used.

Artificial and synthetic materials, textile materials made from chemical fibers used for the manufacture of children's bags and suitcases, schoolbags and satchels must be allowed for use by public health authorities.

In the manufacture of children's bags and suitcases, student briefcases and knapsacks, parts made of materials of contrasting colors, finishing parts and accessories with reflective elements on the front, side surfaces and the top flap of the product should be used.

5.3 Characteristics

5.3.1 Products are manufactured by the following methods: piercing (threads or stitching), adhesive, welded (high-frequency currents), riveted, braiding, knitting, braiding, molding, casting, combined and others.

5.3.2 The strength of the fastening of the load-bearing seams of the body of the products, the fastening of the handles and shoulder straps under static load must comply with Table 1.

Table 1 - Fastening strength of the load-bearing seams of the product body, handles and shoulder straps

product name

Thread seam strength, N/cm (kgf/cm), not less than

Strength of welded high-frequency current, not less than

Breaking load of attachment points of handles and shoulder straps (or maximum load), N (kgf), not less than

when loosening
vaniya, N/cm (kgf/cm)

in shear, MPa (kgf/cm)

Bags for women and everyday and men (including youth)

Shopping bags, beach:

made of imitation leather, laminated fabrics, impregnated or coated

from fabrics without impregnation and coating, polymeric materials

Bags for students, briefcases for women and students, satchels, business folders

Travel bags, sports bags, travel briefcases for men, suitcases-diplomats, travel suitcases of soft and semi-rigid construction

Rigid travel suitcases, suitcase-wardrobe

5.3.3 Coloring in the decoration of products and coloring of cut edges must be resistant to dry and wet friction.

5.3.4 Open cut edges of the outer parts of the products should not crumble.

5.3.5 The cuts of open seams inside the products must be closed with a fringing, keder or treated with high frequency welding or overcast stitching. It is allowed not to close or process the sections of open seams inside products made of genuine leather, artificial leather with a non-shrinking base, impregnated or film-coated fabrics.

5.3.6 Holes in bags closed with a cord must be processed by HDTV welding or reinforced with eyelets.

It is allowed to make bags from genuine leather and bags for preschool children without eyelets and hole processing by HDTV welding.

5.3.7 A gap in the frame lock of bags is not more than 0.2 cm.

5.3.8 Hard-bottomed travel bags must be made with bulges on the bottom. It is allowed to manufacture travel bags on wheels and bags with an inset hard bottom without pouches.

5.3.9 Women's casual, youth and dressy bags are made with one or two inner pockets.

It is allowed to produce bags without internal pockets:

- Youth and elegant, no more than 20 cm long;

- youth unlined;

- bags with one or more outer pockets.

Travel, sports and student bags are made with one or more inner or outer pockets.

5.3.10 A gap between the lid and the body of the suitcase is not more than 0.4 cm.

5.3.11 Genuine leather suitcases must be lined.

Rigid nerds (other than plastic) inside unlined suitcases must be covered with top or lining material.

5.3.12 Suitcases must have one or more pockets inside.

It is allowed to make suitcases without pockets:

- lined with paper on the inside;

- with partitions (compartments) that serve as pockets.

5.3.13 There must be one or two lid holders inside the suitcase.

In an open suitcase, the angle between the lid and the body should be within 90°-120°, in suitcases with metal lid holders - 80°-120°.

It is allowed to manufacture suitcases without lid holders if:

- the suitcase closes with a zipper;

- hinges have special clamps that ensure the stability of the suitcase when open;

- cover and body have the same volume;

- an internal soft hinge is used from the material of the top or lining.

5.3.14 Suitcases with a length of 60 cm or more must have at least two internal lashing straps.

Suitcases lined with paper on the inside are allowed to be manufactured without internal tie-down straps.

5.3.15 There must be one or two hangers inside the wardrobe suitcase.

5.3.16 Suitcases must be made with puffs at the bottom.

It is allowed to make suitcases without pouches:

- not more than 40 cm long;

- with the use of an external profiled keder along the botan of the body and cover;

- with other parts that perform the purpose of pukley.

5.3.17 Wedges or botan in the upper part of briefcases and knapsacks of soft and semi-rigid design must be additionally attached to the front and back walls.

5.3.18 Student's briefcases and satchels must be made with pockets or partitions or liners instead of pockets and partitions.

5.3.19 The metal plate in briefcases (except for student ones) must be hidden.

5.3.20 Knapsacks must be made with a handle.

The length of the shoulder straps must be adjustable. Shoulder straps less than 3 cm wide must be made with a safety pad.

It is not allowed to use buckles with a peg to close student briefcases and knapsacks.

5.3.21 The mass of knapsacks should not exceed 1000 g.

5.3.22 Covers for the certificate of a disabled veteran must be red, covers for the certificate of a participant in the war - any color other than red.

5.3.23 It is not allowed to use films for lining in document covers.

5.3.24 The gap in the frame lock of products should not be more than 0.1 cm.

5.4 Variety definition

5.4.1 Two grades are installed on the products: 1st and 2nd.

It is allowed to produce products without division into grades, while they must meet the requirements for products of the 1st grade.

5.4.2 The grade is determined by the permissible defects located on the outer side of the product, according to table 2.

Table 2 - Permissible defects on the outside of the product

Defect name

The value of the allowed defect

Bags for women, men, children

Travel bags, shopping bags, sports bags, beach bags, suitcases

Briefcases, satchels, bags for students, folders

Small leather goods

1 Perfume
toast, no more

Except the walls

Tolerance
repents

Except the walls

Tolerance
repents

Except the walls

Tolerance
repents

5% parts area

15% parts area

2 Faceless no more than 0.5 cm in size, pcs., no more

1 - folders;
2 - other products

3 - folders;
5 - other products

3 Mechanical scratches in total, cm, no more

Not allowed
repent

Not allowed
repent

Not allowed
repent

Not allowed
repent

4 Zamines in total, cm, no more

5 Various
tenacity, fuzziness of the pattern of embossing, printing

Except the walls

Weak-
stricken

Except the walls

Weak-
stricken

Except the walls

Weak-
stricken

Except the walls

Weak-
stricken

6 Blizny and spans in two strands, seats, no more

Not allowed
repent

Not allowed
repent

Not allowed
repent

Not allowed
repent

7 Underlay
mud, no more than three threads, places, no more

8 Stripe due to different linear density or decoter, undercut, nick, places, no more

9 Strip from thread thickening over three times to five times the thickness, including, places, no more

10 Thickening of the thread, more than five times to eight
multiple thickness inclusive, places, no more

Not allowed
repents

Not allowed
repents

11 Distinguish-
thread

Weak-
smitten

Noticeable

Weak-
smitten

Noticeable

Weak-
smitten

Noticeable

Weak-
smitten

Noticeable

12 Spots no more than 1 cm in size along the greatest length in total, pcs., no more

Not allowed
repent

Not allowed
repent

Not allowed
repent

Not allowed
repent

13 Dives in total, cm, no more

14 Skewed pattern of the material on a length of 50 cm, cm, no more

15 Misalignment of parts and displacement of fittings, cm, no more

16 Deviated
line or line of HDTV welding from a given contour, cm, no more

17 Uneven
measured width of the folded edge, cm, no more

0.1 - folders;
0.2 - other products

0.1 - folders; 0.2 - other products

18 Punctures from the needle on the length, cm

Not allowed
repent

Not allowed
repent

Notes

1 Knobs, clogging, knots of the material according to the standard sample agreed with the consumer are allowed.

2 The degree of severity of defects in materials (color variation, fuzziness of the embossing pattern, printing, etc.) is established according to standard samples agreed with the consumer.


Both sides of the products in the open form are considered to be the outer side in the paper and address folders, wallets and purses.

The total number of defects in one product should not exceed that specified in Table 3.


Table 3 - Total number of defects in one product

product name

The total number of defects in the product

1st grade

2nd grade

Women's, men's (including youth), children's bags, small leather goods

Travel bags, household bags, sports bags, beach bags, for students, suitcases, briefcases, knapsacks, folders

5.4.3 Defects in products are not considered:

defects of natural leather - well-grown fistulas and pockmarks, overgrown scratches, corneas, scars, vorosity, milk lines, slight screed, wrinkle, mild veininess, lizukha, overgrown insect bites, shallow (up to skin thickness) undercuts, uneven coloring on aniline leathers, semi-aniline and other special dyeing methods.

5.4.4 Products are not allowed:

stains on the lining larger than 1 cm along the greatest length;

shedding and stripping of the coating of the material;

flaking and peeling of paint and varnish and metal coatings, chips, cracks, sharp edges, burrs, pockets of corrosion on fittings;

cracks in the front surface of the material;

dirt and clots of glue;

more than 5 shells on the outer side of artificial leather products;

holes and burns in the weld or hatch lines;

skipped stitches, looped, weak and tight stitching;

twisting the braid and holding;

the presence of sprues, shells, burrs in casting parts;

descent of loops in details from jersey;

dumping the line from the edge of the part;

offset of the decorative pattern is more than 0.3 cm;

rupture of material in the area of ​​fastening accessories;

falling out of rivets, buttons, grommet;

malfunction of the locking hardware.

5.4.5 Products in a set must be of the same grade.

5.5 Marking, packaging

5.5.1 Marking and packaging of products in accordance with GOST 25871 with the following additions.

It is allowed to mark products on labels made of artificial leather waste, ribbons and braids made of artificial and synthetic fibers; marking on a paper label of bags made of elastic polymer materials, shopping bags of a simplified design, suitcases pasted over with paper inside, address and blotter folders, small leather goods.

It is allowed to use other materials for labels that ensure the quality of marking, as agreed with the consumer.

Suitcases made of ABS plastic and polystyrene are packed in corrugated cardboard boxes in accordance with GOST 13841 and other regulatory documents adopted on the territory of the States Parties to the Agreement.

Consumer packaging with products must be pasted over with a parcel tape.

6 Acceptance rules

6.1 Acceptance of products is carried out in batches. For a batch, the simultaneously presented quantity of products of the same article, variety, manufactured using the same technology and issued with one quality document is accepted.

6.2 When accepting products, complete or selective control is used.

6.2.1 The manufacturer checks the products in terms of appearance, compliance of marking and packaging with the requirements of regulatory documents through complete control.

6.2.2 Checking products in terms of appearance, conformity of marking and packaging by the consumer and during control checks is carried out selectively.

The selection of product units during selective control is carried out by the method of random selection according to GOST 18321. The main type of control is normal, the control plan is single-stage, control level II is general.

Acceptance level of defectiveness - 1.5% according to GOST 18242.

A batch of products is accepted if the number of defective items in the sample is less than or equal to the acceptance number (defective items are subject to correction or replacement).

A batch of products is rejected if the number of defective units in the sample is greater than or equal to the rejection number.

6.2.3 The manufacturer periodically checks the products:

to determine the size, weight, strength of the seams, fastening the handles and shoulder straps - at least once every six months;

by definition of color fastness - at least once a month.

6.2.4 During control and periodic checks to determine dimensions, color fastness, weight, strength of seams, fastening of handles and shoulder straps, a sample is taken from the total number of products in the lot:

to determine the size and color fastness - 0.1%, but not less than three products;

to determine the weight, strength of the seams, fastening of handles and shoulder straps - three samples.

If the results of the control are unsatisfactory, a repeated control is carried out according to this indicator on a doubled number of products (samples) newly selected from the same batch.

The results of the re-inspection are extended to the entire lot.

7 Control methods

7.1 The appearance of products is determined visually by comparison with a standard sample.

7.2 Measure products with a ruler according to GOST 427 and GOST 17435.

7.3 The mass of knapsacks is determined by weighing on a balance according to GOST 29329.

7.4 The test for color fastness is carried out by rubbing three times with a white cotton cloth, dry and moistened without effort. The tissue is moistened until its mass increases by 75% for genuine leather and by 100% for other materials. Dyeing of fabric and shedding of dye is not allowed.

7.5 Testing the strength of the seams and fastenings of the handles and shoulder straps for breaking and the design load is carried out on samples of attachment points made in accordance with the attachment points of the test sample; for maximum load - on samples of finished products.

7.5.1 Tests are carried out on a tensile testing machine RT-250 and similar machines of other types. The rupture load of the samples should be in the middle third of the machine load scale.

The distance between the clamps of the tensile testing machine: (100±2) mm when testing the strength of seams, (200±2) mm when testing the strength of fastening handles and shoulder straps.

Movement speed of the bottom clamp - (100±10) mm/min.

The longitudinal axis of the sample must coincide with the direction of application of the load.

7.5.2 To test the tensile strength of the welds and the design load, rectangular samples are cut out with a size of (50x100) ± 1 mm. The samples on the smaller side are connected with a seam in accordance with the attachment points of the tested product. The seam should be located in the middle of the sample, the ends of the threads at the beginning and end of the line should be tied in a knot.

Before testing the strength of the seams, measure the length of the seam between the extreme points, as well as the width of the weld when connecting the samples to the overlay. Samples of the fastener for testing the strength of the weld are conditioned (in laboratory rooms, special chambers or desiccators) at a relative humidity of (65 ± 2)% and a temperature of (20 ± 2) ° C for at least 24 hours after welding.

7.5.3 When testing the fastening strength of handles and shoulder straps for breaking and design load, the dimensions of the part corresponding to the body of the product must be (100x200) ± 2 mm.

The scheme of fastening samples of attachment points - in accordance with Figure 1.

Figure 1 - Fixing samples of attachment points


Symmetrical trimming of the corners of the sample fixed in the lower clamp of the tensile testing machine is allowed when using a clamp less than 100 mm long.

Testing of products for maximum load is carried out if it is impossible to test the strength of the attachment points of the handles and shoulder straps without the use of special devices for fixing them in the clamps of the tensile testing machine.

7.5.4 When testing the strength of seams, fastening handles and shoulder straps for breaking or design load, the samples are fixed in the clamps of the tensile testing machine so that the attachment point is located in the middle between the clamps and parallel to their faces. When testing the strength of a threaded seam, the lining and cushioning materials are not fixed in the clamps.

At the end of the test, the load is fixed and the nature of the gap is noted (material, threads, etc.).

7.5.5 The strength of the thread and weld seams during delamination is calculated by the formulas:

where is the load at rupture of samples, N (kgf);

- the length of the seam between the extreme points, see

The shear strength of the overlay weld () is calculated by the formula

where is the area of ​​the sample seam, cm.

The arithmetic mean of the sample test results is taken as the final test result. The test result is calculated with an accuracy of 1.0.

7.5.6 The strength of the fastening of the handles and shoulder straps during the tensile test is characterized by the load at break of the sample.

7.5.7 When testing the fastening strength of handles or shoulder straps for maximum load, a uniformly loaded product is suspended in a free state by the handles or shoulder straps on a rod parallel to the floor of the room.

The weight of the load must correspond to the maximum load of the product.

The product is considered to have passed the test if no destruction of the attachment point is detected.

The time for testing the product for maximum load is five days.

8 Transport and storage

Transportation and storage of products - according to GOST 25871.

9 Manufacturer's warranties

9.1 The manufacturer guarantees the compliance of products with the requirements of this standard, subject to the conditions of transportation and storage.

9.2 Warranty period from the date of retail sale, days:

50 - women's, men's, travel, sports bags;

30 - shopping bags, beach bags, for students, student briefcases, knapsacks, small leather goods;

70 - suitcases, business and travel briefcases, folders.



The text of the document is verified by:
official publication
M.: Standartinform, 2006

Bags have become part of the set of business people not so long ago, while they have become an indispensable part of the male image. Increasingly, men prefer portfolios. On the one hand, they are more convenient and functional than a diplomat and a suitcase, on the other hand, unlike a backpack, they look more presentable.

How to choose the right leather briefcase?

Material

The first thing you should pay attention to is the material. Manufacturers offer:

  • Textile is the cheapest, most fragile and short-lived material, moreover, it most often looks untidy and frivolous.
  • Things made of leatherette are also not too expensive, they are strong enough, but they quickly lose their presentation, scratch, the top layer is erased.
  • For such an accessory, genuine leather is the most suitable option. The seeming overpriced price of such products justifies itself with high strength, durability and excellent appearance for many years of service. The texture of the material should be uniform on all surfaces; patent leather lamination technology is sometimes used to protect against moisture and damage. Many people prefer products made from unfinished smooth or fine-grained material. If you are not too conservative, among natural materials, suede and exotic species, such as crocodile or caiman, will attract your attention.

Form, color and function

The size and format must correspond to the purpose of the subject. Most briefcases are sewn so that A4 papers, a tablet or a small laptop are placed inside. Inside, compartments for small things such as keys, pens, a diary and others can be provided. There are interesting models on the market for those who often travel on business trips - models with external pockets for documents and tickets. The handle must be reinforced with several layers of material. A good addition would be a belt in order to carry things on the shoulder. Most portfolios are presented in black. This is an ageless classic. Recently, in addition to brown, also a traditional color, you can pay attention to beige and even yellow. The main thing is that the parts of the image should be in unity, the colors of the briefcase, shoes, belt and watch strap should match.

Manufacturer and quality

The quality of any leather thing depends on the material, its processing, as well as the professionalism of the workers from the designer to the seamstress. According to these parameters, many prefer what they bring from Italy and Spain. However, complex shipping costs and taxes are included in the cost of foreign goods. Competitors Italians and Spaniards are compatriots. So, for example, in St. Petersburg, the Person factory offers handmade leather goods wholesale, retail in an online store, and also makes things to order. You can see the catalog of leather goods on the site.

When choosing, pay attention not only to the appearance and overall impression. Before purchasing, you must inspect the offer and make sure that:

  • All seams inside and out are stitched evenly;
  • The edges are neatly finished;
  • Carabiners, locks and zippers open and close easily, without clips, without defects.

Caring for a leather briefcase

Men's bags are designed to carry personal items (gadgets, keys, wallet, documents). It may seem burdensome to wear at first, but besides being practical and comfortable, it is fashionable and adds a stylish touch.

The male accessory is characterized by square, rectangular and semicircular shapes. Actual classic colors - black, brown, dark blue, dark gray, beige.

Less common are burgundy, white, purple bags. Popular materials are leather, suede, textiles, nylon.

According to the type of carrying, bags are distinguished:

  • on a short belt (worn under the armpit);
  • with a short handle (worn in the hand or on the wrist);
  • on a belt or handles of medium length (worn on the shoulder near the elbow);
  • on a long belt (worn on the shoulder or over the shoulder);
  • on straps (worn on one shoulder or behind the back);
  • with belt fastening.

By type of closing there are bags:

  • with a zipper or one or more fasteners;
  • with a valve at the top, closing with a magnet clasp or straps;
  • with frame lock;
  • with top strap.

According to the type of material used, bags are divided into:

  • soft, not holding shape;
  • rigid, sewn from materials that retain their shape or contain rigid material at their core;
  • semi-rigid, including separate rigid elements (bottom).

Types of men's bags

Purse. One of the most popular men's accessories for carrying a standard set of things (wallet, car documents, keys, pen, notepad).

The classic variation is a small size, square shape, a handle for carrying in the hand or a loop for the wrist. Models with fastening to a belt are widespread. The purse rigidly holds its shape, contains two or three internal compartments and is most often made of genuine leather.

Briefcase. Suitable for carrying documents, laptop and personal items. Form factor square or rectangular shape and size to fit a document folder. Some models include a long shoulder strap. Leather is used for tailoring, a budget option is a fabric briefcase.

Diplomat. It looks solid and strict than a briefcase. This is a hard frame bag with a handle and clasps, with rare exceptions made of leather and suede. Are issued with the code lock or with the lock closed on a key.

clutch. It looks like a large wallet, in which, in addition to money and cards, other personal items will also fit. Most models have a zipper, less often a frame fastener or a button on a magnet.

Some clutches have two compartments, each of which is fastened separately. There are models with a small, tight-fitting handle for fixing on the hand, a loop on the wrist or decorative elements (embroidery, rivets, fake pockets).

Folder. A simplified version of the clutch, which is used to carry documents. The size corresponds to plastic folders, with one compartment and a zip fastener. Sometimes it additionally contains a pocket for a smartphone or tablet and keys. The folder is made of soft leather or fabric without using decorative elements.

Shoulder bag. A variant of a men's accessory for carrying personal items without occupying your hands and without restricting your movements. For sewing everyday models, textiles are used that can be easily cleaned. Popular options are leather or suede.

The main distinguishing mark of such an accessory is a long wide belt.

Most models have an adjustable strap, some have a shoulder pad for comfortable wear.

Depending on the appearance and capacity, there are five options for such bags.

Postwoman. The most capacious of accessories of this kind is made of soft leather or textiles. You will comfortably carry the necessary things with you, as most often it includes a sufficient number of compartments and pockets.

It is made of textiles and canvas, leather or suede options are relevant, complemented by decorative elements (straps, clasps, rivets, pockets).

Messenger. A square semi-rigid model in leather or thick textile for daily wear, it holds personal items to the maximum. It contains two or three compartments, an outer pocket and closes with a top flap (usually also with a pocket).

Tablet. The model is inferior to the previous two only in size. This is a smaller version of the postman, made only of leather. Has up to three departments inside and a pocket outside.

"For the camera". A square accessory of small dimensions made of leather, thanks to a rigid frame shape and a strap clasp, reminiscent of a case for a camera.

Case. The smallest model of this series, which is sewn from textiles (sometimes suede). It resembles a pocket on a belt, so it is suitable for small-sized personal items or money. There is a variant of an open leather bag-case without fasteners, from which you can get the right thing on the go.

Sports bag. Designed for wearing sports equipment, change or outerwear. Equipped with a shoulder strap and side pockets, made of colored textiles or canvas. The compartments close with zippers and are roomy to the maximum.

Backpack. Another sporty option to wear over your shoulders with plenty of pockets. It is relevant not only for schoolchildren and students, it allows you to comfortably carry the necessary equipment with you or travel with a small set of things.

Backpacks are made of textiles, but leather and suede accessories of various sizes for everyday wear are gaining popularity.

Sold models with a compartment for a laptop and charger.

The traditional zipper in some backpacks is replaced by a top tie or flap.

Belt bag. A small option for carrying money, cards and other small items. Suitable for sports (for example, to put a player or phone in it).

It is made with a built-in belt or attached to a trouser belt, worn at the waist with a shift to one side. A sports model is often sewn from textiles, for everyday wear - from leather.

Holdoll. An analogue of a sports accessory in a leather version and with decorative elements for everyday wear. Capacious model with handles and a belt, a large number of pockets. It is worth choosing it if you need to carry a maximum of things with you.

Tote. A large rectangular elongated bag with two strong handles, reminiscent of a leather bag. The handles are short or medium length. Tote is worn on the shoulder or in the hands. Spacious and stylish accessory.

Sacvoyage. An alternative to a small suitcase. Suitable for travel and business trips. A bag differs from a simple travel suitcase in the material of manufacture - usually it is leather. There are also handbags made antique with a frame lock.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of a particular model depend on the price segment in which it is located. Expensive accessories have enough pluses - quality, style, naturalness of materials, durability of accessories and one significant minus - price.

Purse Suitable for those who need an easy thing with small dimensions. It is combined with casual clothes in a casual style, but is not worn with a business suit.

clutch is a stylish replacement for a purse, which also goes well with office style. You should not choose casual clothes for him, with the exception of classic jeans with a strict top (shirt, vest, jacket).

Briefcase- this is a component of a business image, which is quite compatible with jeans and shirts.

Leather shoulder bags with a minimum of details, suitable for everyday wear and office style. Accessories of this kind with an abundance of pockets and accessories, made of textiles of bright colors are combined only with a free style characteristic of students and people of creativity.

Tote is essentially considered a portfolio replacement and will appeal to innovators.

Holdoll versatile and can be used as a daily accessory for any wardrobe.

Variations of sports bags worn with casual wear, sportswear, jeans and T-shirts. If there is a need to change clothes for a workout after the office, they take such an accessory with them, but not as the main one.

How to choose a men's bag

First of all, decide on the material. When choosing an accessory made of genuine leather or suede, pay attention to the following nuances.

Trust trusted brands or make sure the materials are natural. Look at the label with a sample of the material of the selected model. In natural leather, it is curly, in leatherette - in the form of a rhombus. Another natural material has a specific smell, the substitute smells like varnish or paint.

The skin has a good heat transfer, respectively, from the touch it will become warm, while maintaining dryness.

Leatherette takes longer to heat up and becomes slightly damp from the heat of the hand.

There is another way to identify natural material - to drop a drop of water on the accessory. Water will be absorbed into the skin. Non-natural material will repel water and the drop will drain. But this method may not work if the bag is treated with a water repellent.

When choosing a suede accessory, run your hand over the surface of the model. Natural suede will change shade, artificial suede will remain the original color. This suede phenomenon was not learned to fake.

Check the quality of the lining by looking at each compartment and pocket. It should be durable and sewn from organic cotton. No extra threads should be visible inside the bag; the lining should not fluff at the seams.

Check every seam. The skin itself is a durable material, so the seams are vulnerable points. Reputable manufacturers are insured and make a double machine line so that the life of the bag is not reduced due to a torn seam.

The handles of a quality bag should not slip in your hand.

The next step is to check the hardware. Open and close each lock, zipper and button. Everything should be fastened easily, without any additional effort.

Inspect the metal decorative elements, they should not contain chips and scratches.

If the bag has a shoulder strap, make sure it is comfortable to wear and wide enough to avoid chafing your shoulder. Try adjusting its length and see its maximum and minimum values. It is better that the belt is additionally equipped with a special lock against slipping.

Modern technologies make it possible to produce high-quality leather substitute. If an accessory made of artificial material is selected, check it for all points except the first one (checking with a drop of water).

Textile models should be durable and practical. Choose a material that is easy to wash and clean. On the surface of the bag should not be visible puffs and protruding threads. The lining, handles and fittings of a worthy textile accessory have the qualities described above for leather bags.

Best Quality Bag Options

If you choose an accessory that meets all the parameters described above, it will last a long time to the maximum. But it is better to stay on natural materials. The quality of the material is a guarantee of the safety of things carried in the bag.

A good leather or suede bag is pleasant to the touch and easy to clean. Even a high-quality substitute cannot be compared with natural material, but it can cost the same.

The skin is protected from temperature extremes, so it will not crack, this quality is especially important for handles and straps, it is plastic - after twisting there will be no creases.

A solid lining will ensure the preservation of the shape and contents of the bag, a long service life. It does not fluff, does not paint and does not tear for a long time. Models sewn with double stitching resist loads well and will not tear under the weight of things. High-quality accessories - do not break and do not bring discomfort to the owner of the bag.

Accessories made of first-class textiles are easy to wash or clean, the pattern does not dye and does not wipe for a long time. The best sports bag is distinguished by high-quality stitching, will last a long time with constant weight loads on the seams.

Care

Improper care will shorten the wearing time of even a quality bag.

Caring for accessories made of genuine leather.

You can not store it in a plastic bag, oxidative processes will affect the color of the material. The skin needs to breathe, so place your bag in a natural fabric bag. They come with branded models. Do not crush the accessory.

The skin does not like direct sunlight, remove the bag from the area of ​​their contact, for example, in a closet.

Do not store near radiators and appliances.

Clean the bag as it gets dirty. Take out the contents, turn the lining inside out, wash it gently and rinse. Wash the skin with a sponge with soapy water or a special agent according to the instructions on it.

Wipe off any residue with a damp cloth and wipe the surface dry. After that, you can treat the material with a cream (colorless) to add shine and additional protection. Additionally, the cream will hide the shortcomings from operation: scratches and creases.

Wipe the stubborn stain with an alcohol-based product. Be careful - alcohol dries out the skin.

To maintain perfect condition, periodically wipe the bag and lining with a damp cloth.

Caring for accessories made of natural suede.

Store in a closet in a cotton bag, stuffed with paper to keep its shape.

Water is the main enemy of this material. If it gets very wet, wipe the accessory thoroughly with a dry cloth and dry it at room temperature, hanging it carefully by the handles.

Remove dirt from the bag and periodically wipe the surface for prevention with a special rubber brush (or sponge) with a colorless suede spray.

You can also quickly wash the accessory with soapy water, preventing it from absorbing water. It is important not to rub the suede.

If the folds of the suede product are glossy, gently rub them with “zero” sandpaper without peeling off the pile layer.

Caring for textile accessories.

Clean the textile bag with a soft brush, or wash it by hand in soapy water. It is better to remove stains with a stain remover. Before drying, stuff the product with paper to keep its shape.

Guarantee

It is allowed to return a bag without a marriage that did not fit for any reason (by color, by size) within 14 days, not including the day of purchase, if the presentation, labels and packaging are preserved. Have your check and passport with you.

Return the defective bag within the warranty period. If the warranty was not established by the seller, the period will be two years. The warranty does not cover damage caused by improper use of the product and fittings. Take your passport, receipt and warranty card (if any) with you.

Even if the seller refused to return the money for the accessory, he is obliged to take it for a quality check. The buyer has the right to attend.

If you do not return the money after verification, insist on an examination, but only being sure that you are right.

The examination is carried out at the expense of the seller, the buyer has the right to be present at it.

If the procedure proves that the product was purchased with a marriage, the money must be compensated. If the opposite is proved, the losses for storage and examination shall be reimbursed by the buyer.

In cases of further refusal of the seller to return the money, write a written claim, then go to court.

If the warranty period has expired or has not been established, carry out an examination at your own expense and then present the results to the seller. In the case of evidence of the presence of a marriage before the purchase, the damage will be reimbursed.

When buying online, additional consumer protection requirements apply - return the goods without explanation within seven days without receipts.

Repair

Restoring the color and surface of leather or suede

The skin accepts paint well, so faded and worn areas are easily restored. Carry out coloring in a special workshop or at home, but only using professional paint, following the instructions on the tube.

Dyes for leather are represented by an extensive palette of colors.

Before processing, the product must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased with an alcohol solution.

After the procedure, fix the result with a special paint fixative, and impregnate leather and suede products with agents that repel water and dirt.

Suede bags cannot be repainted, but small scuffs can be carefully covered up with a spray can of suede paint.

Repair of surface damage

Gluing cuts (not always possible) and scratches on the skin surface is restored with liquid skin. Before applying, it is required to put on polyethylene gloves on your hands.

Before applying liquid leather, file the scratches with a nail file, then use a credit card or a plastic spatula to apply the restorer. Let it dry (the layer must be applied with a small tubercle), then the dried layer is processed with a nail file and the restored area is tinted with skin paint.

Repair of fittings and replacement of handles

Handles and accessories are the most vulnerable places for bags. But at the same time, they are easy to repair. By yourself or in the workshop, you can replace the handles on the accessory, the zipper, the slider, the lock and insert the dropped decor elements.

If desired, there is always the opportunity to shorten a belt that is too long, or add additional elements of decoration, making the chosen model unique.

Manufacturers of men's bags

A Russian manufacturer that monitors style trends and releases high-quality current models every month.

Giorgio Ferretti

Giorgio Ferretti offers designer models, ahead of and defining fashion trends. The company has its own production of genuine leather with wear-resistant fittings.

It produces accessories from vegetable tanned leather on a wooden drum and impregnated with natural oils. The products of this company boast hand-cut and brass fittings, which makes them recognizable in the market.

The company specializes in products for home, leisure and office. Men will be able to pick up a briefcase, a backpack, a travel bag and even a mobile office with compartments for clothes, papers and a laptop.

Innovative brand from Italy. Products undergo three-stage quality control and are carefully designed. Each model is elegant, recognizable and made from traditional Tuscan leather.

A company that will be of interest to men who spend a lot of time on the road (travel, business trips). It offers shoulder and travel accessories, suitcases, cases for laptops made of high quality textiles.

Sergio Belotti

The Italian company Sergio Belotti, which annually produces conservative and recognizable models of men's bags made of natural materials. Specializes in classic accessories for a business look.

The world famous brand of travel equipment, which offers, among other things, sports bags, backpacks and cases made of natural textiles and canvas. Products are resistant to stress and stand out with high-quality seams.

Tuscany Leather

The Italian company Tuscany Leather produces the entire range of men's leather bags. The official owner of several prestigious awards in the accessories market. Leather for tailoring products is processed according to an old recipe, but the latest technologies are involved in the production.

The Swiss brand, which first conquered the world with knives, offers backpacks, sports and leather bags, briefcases. Each model is individually designed and is as versatile as a folding camping knife. The accessories of this company allocate a large number of pockets for all sorts of little things.