Sew a jacket for a man. Pattern of a men's jacket. There are several rules for preparing for cutting

Before you start sewing a jacket made of genuine leather, you need to decide on the choice of material. There are a lot of varieties of leather, it all depends on the dressing - processing. Modern technologies allow to obtain natural leather of high quality, elastic and various colors. In my case, these are goat skins, they are very soft and thin in thickness.

After choosing the skins, you should decide on their number. To do this, you need to prepare a pattern in advance, taking into account the style, all the decorative details and the size of the figure. Then make the layout of the pattern (in the store) on the skins. So you will understand how much bottom material it will take to make a jacket. Do not forget also about the lower details: the selection, lower collar, facings, etc.

Open jackets

After acquiring the material, we proceed to cutting the jacket. Before cutting, circle the areas of holes, non-painting, marriage, etc. with chalk. If the skins are in limited quantities, then the places with the least expressive defects can be used for the lower parts where they are not noticeable. Cut out the details of the pattern, on the skins in the longitudinal direction, along the ridge. In this place, the skins are less extensible than in the transverse direction. It is better to circle the patterns with chalk or a special pencil for the skin. The pen leaves marks on the front side. Cut should be from the front side, so defects on the skins are immediately visible and you can get around them.

The strongest part of the skin is the area along the ridge, so try to cut out the parts that are most stressed in these places. The ventral region of the skin, i.e. on the sides, more delicate, it can be used for small finishing details and in places where the load is less great. If you have a large amount of material, then this area can be excluded altogether.

Preparation for I-fitting

After all the details are cut out, it is necessary to try on. Some sources write that before cutting, it is worth making a model of the product from a simple fabric and only then transfer the finished template to the material. This is done for high-quality tailoring, since it is impossible to sweep the skin, punctures from the needle remain on it. Therefore, all changes are made to the layout and, according to the finished details, a product is cut out, which is sewn immediately under the machine. But if you are confident in your experience and the accuracy of the pattern, then making a layout can be avoided. In addition, there are skins that are very soft and thin, on which needle punctures do not remain at all. Test this on a small piece of paper beforehand.

You can prepare the product for fitting without sweeping away the details, for example, connect it with a stapler, adhesive tape or a special sticky pencil for the skin, which does not leave marks.

How to properly try on a product, read on.

After trying on, the seams are ground using a Teflon foot; a regular foot does not fit; it does not slip on the skin.

Then the seams are ironed or ironed, depending on the model, and the allowances are fixed with glue. Glue for such cases is only suitable for skin, other adhesives coarsen the seams when dried. Glue, if necessary, can be easily removed with acetone. To reduce the thickness of the seam, the seams are carefully split with a hammer.

If you need to lay finishing stitches along the seams, also use a Teflon foot. Choose threads and needles according to the type of leather, as well as the processing and model of the product. Finishing stitch width is recommended from 4.0 mm., it depends on the model and your wishes. Machine fasteners are not placed on the skin so that the stitching does not unravel, cut the threads, leaving 0.5 cm and burn the ends.

The main feature of leather jackets is the many decorative finishes, such as small details, curly seams, metal studs and zippers. Genuine leather can be combined with various fabrics: knitwear, guipure, chiffon, drape, etc.

How to iron natural leather?

Genuine leather is ironed very carefully at low temperatures without steam through a dry iron, both from the front and from the wrong side. Excessive moisture and heat will lead to deformation of the skin. On a separate flap, check the skin for susceptibility to heat treatment.

After finishing work, all chalk lines are easily removed with a damp cloth, and the appearance is given with a can of paint for the skin.
When cutting a men's leather jacket, you need to take into account the activity in the shoulder girdle. Therefore, increases in the chest and back width are made larger than in the waist and hips. Also, the amount of increase depends on the thickness of the lining and clothing that is worn under the jacket.
Lining for leather jackets, choose from natural fabrics or containing natural fibers. Since synthetics do not allow air to pass through, which increases sweating.
Genuine leather should be sewn on a production machine, in household machines the motor is weak, it will lead to breakage or poor-quality tailoring of the product.
As a cushioning, adhesive material, you can use flesilin or knitted adhesive.
Additional slip on the skin will give, lubrication of the line section with vegetable oil.

Construction of a men's jacket according to the system of M. Muller and son

Let's designate the dimensional signs necessary for the construction of the back and shelves:

Merck	Designation	Measurement
Bust	Og	-
Height	R	-
Length of the product	Di	-
Back armhole height	Vpr.z	(measured or calculated Vpr.z \u003d 1/8Og + 12cm) + 2.5cm (increase on the drawing)
Armhole front height	Vpr.p	Vpr.z + 2.5cm
Back length to waist	dts	(measured or calculated 1/4R) + 1cm (increase on the drawing)
hip height	wb	measured or calculated Wb. = 1/8R
Back neck width	Shsh.z	measured or calculated Shsh.z \u003d 1/10 of 1/2Og + 3cm + 0.5cm (increase on the drawing)
Back Width	Shs	(measured or calculated Ws = 2/10 * Og + 2.5-4cm - with Og up to 100cm, Ws = 1/10 * Og + 12.5-14.5cm - with Og over 100cm)
Armhole Width	Shpr	(1/8*Og + 2.5-4.5cm)
Back neck width	Shsh.z	(1/4*From + 0-0.5cm). Doesn't count if Shpzh< Шг, в этом случае считается Шпж=Шг
Chest Width	Shg	Chest width (2/10 Og + 2-4cm)

(1). Let's start building from the back. We draw a vertical AE = Di. On this vertical, we set aside the segments AB = Vpr.z, AC = Dts, CD = Wb. We draw horizontal lines through all points on the vertical (Fig. 1)

(2). Divide the segment AB in half - we get the point A '. On the line of the hips, set aside the segment DD '= 2.5cm, draw the segment D'A' and extend it to the bottom line, we get point E'. From the point of intersection of the segment D’A’ with the waistline from point C, set aside 0.5 cm to the left - we get point C’. Let's draw a line in the middle of the back E'C'A'. Let's designate the places of intersection with horizontals as B', D' (Fig. 2).
(3). From point A to the left horizontally, we set aside the value of Shsh.z, we get point A1. From point A1 upwards, we set aside the segment A1F = 2.5 cm. Let's draw the neck of the back (Fig. 2).

(4). From the point B' to the left, we set aside the segment B'B1 = Шс. Let's draw a vertical B1A2 (Fig. 3).
(5). From point A2 down, lay down the segment A2G \u003d 3cm. Draw a straight line FG and continue it beyond the segment B1A2. On the continuation of this line from the point G, set aside 1 cm - we get the point F1. We get the shoulder line of the back (Fig. 3).

(6). On the segment B1A2 up from the point B1, set aside the segment B1G1 = 1/4Vpr.z. From point G1 to the left, draw a segment G1G2 = 1 cm (Fig. 4)

(7). On the line of the chest from point B1 to the left, set aside a segment B1B2 \u003d 1/2 * Shpr + 1.5 cm. Let's draw a vertical line from point B2. Points of intersection with contour lines will be denoted by points С1, D1, E1.

(8). Draw an armhole line through points B2, G2, F1 (Fig. 6).

(9). Set aside approximately 5 cm from point B2 to the left, as the gap between the drawing of the back and front. We get point B3. From point B3 set aside the segment B3B4 = 1/2 * Shpr - 1.5 cm. Draw a vertical through point B4 to the line of the hips (Fig. 7).

(10). From point B4 upwards, set aside the segments B4H = 1/4Shpr, V4H1 = 1/4Vpr.z. Point H is a control sign for sewing in a sleeve (Fig. 8).

(11). From point B4 draw a segment vertically upwards B4H2 = Vpr.p. Draw a horizontal through H2. From point B4 to the left, set aside the segment B4B5 \u003d Shg. From point C2 to the left, set aside the value of Shpzh (if Shpzh< Шг, то от точки С2 откладываем величину Шг). Ставим точку С3. Чертим линию середины полочки через крайнюю левую точку на линии груди - A3-B5-C3-D3-E3, где Н2А3 - перпендикуляр к линии середины полочки (рис. 9).

(12). From point B5 to the right, set aside the segment B5B6 \u003d Shsh.z + 1cm. From point A3 to the right, set aside the segment A3A’3 = 1cm. Connect points A'3 and B5. Draw a segment B6A4 through point B6, parallel to segment B5A'3 (Fig. 10).

(13). From point A4 down along the segment A4B6 set aside the segment A4I \u003d Shsh.z + 2cm. from point I draw a perpendicular II1 to segment A4B6. Draw a neck line (Fig. 11).

(14). From the point H2 down, we set aside the segment H2H3 \u003d 4.5 cm. Let's draw a straight line A4H3 (auxiliary line for constructing the shoulder cut). From point A4 along the straight line A4H3 set aside the segment A4J = FF1 (from the drawing of the back) - 0.5-1 cm. Draw an armhole line through points J, H1, B3 (Fig. 12).

(15). Let's move the line of the shoulder towards the shelf by 1 cm: on the shelf, in parallel, move the shoulder 1 cm down, on the back, raise the shoulder by 1 cm. At the armhole, lower the end of the shoulder cut by 0.5 cm and draw the end section of the shoulder cut with a smooth line (Fig. 13).

(16). Set aside 1.5 cm along the waist line inward from points C1 and C2. We get points C'1 and C'2. Connect points B2, C'1, D1. Continue straight line C'1D1 until it intersects with the bottom line at point E'1. Similarly, we obtain a side cut of the shelf B3, C'2, D2, E'2. Perpendicular to E'D' from point E' draw a segment E'K (Fig. 14).

(17). From the middle of segment E'K draw a perpendicular to E'1D1. On the segment E'1D1 we get the point K1. From C'2 down we put the segment C'2K2 = C'1K1. Draw a perpendicular to C'2E'2 from point K2 to the left. On the line of the middle of the shelf from the waist line down, set aside the value C’1K1 + 1cm. Let's draw the lines of the bottom (Fig. 15).

Once again, we will check the increase in the chest, waist and hips, check the pairing of parts.

To build a sleeve, we need the following dimensional features:

Merck	Designation	Measurement
armhole height	VPR	from the drawing of the back and shelves
Armhole length	DPR	from the drawing of the back and shelves
Sleeve width at the bottom	shrn	by model
The length of the sleeve	dr	-
Eye height	wok	Wok = 1/2*Vpr - 6.5-7.5cm
Slanted sleeve width	Shr	1/2*Dpr - 2.5-3.5cm

(18). Let's start building the sleeve. We measure the length of the armhole in the drawing on the back and shelf and add both results (Dpr). Let's determine the height of the armhole (Vpr), for this we draw a segment J'B4 and F'1B'1 (F'1B'1 is perpendicular to the chest line BB5). Add the values of the segments J'B4 and F'1B'1 (Fig. 16)

(19). Let's draw a vertical line LO = Dr. On this vertical we set aside the segment LM = Wok. From the point O we set aside up and down 1.5 cm - we get the levels of the lower points on the lines of the front and elbow rolls of the sleeve. Let's denote the points O' and O". Let's determine the location of the elbow line: segment MN = 1/2*O'M - 1.5cm, segment NO' = 1/2*O'M + 1.5cm. Let's draw horizontal lines from all points (Fig. 17).

(20). From the point M upwards, set aside the segment MM '= 1/4 * Shpr. Set aside 1.5 cm along the elbow line from point N - point N 'is obtained (Fig. 18).

(21). From the point O 'on an oblique lay off the value of 1/2 * Shrn until the intersection with the straight line from the point O ”(this is convenient to do with a compass). Let's get the point P. From the point N 'let's set aside along the line of the elbow the segment N'Q \u003d 1/2 * Shn + 4-5cm. Connect the points P and Q. PQ - the lower part of the elbow roll of the sleeve (Fig. 19).

(22). From point M 'on an inclined straight line, set aside the value of Shp until it intersects with the horizontal from point L (this is convenient to do with a compass). Point L1 received. Let's draw a small vertical down from this point (Fig. 20).

(23). Vertical L1L'1 \u003d 1/4 * Spr. We divide the segment LL1 with additional points. L2 - the middle of the segment LL1, point L' - the middle of the segment LL2, L2L'2 = 1/3*L2L1. Let's draw segments as shown in Fig. 21.

(24). At a distance of 2 cm from the point M1 to the left, we find the point M'1. Let's draw a segment M'1L'1. On this segment from the point L'1, we set aside the segment L'1R = 2cm. Draw a horizontal line through the point R until it intersects with the continuation of the segment L1L'1 at the point R'. On the continuation of RR', we set aside the segment R'R1=R'R. Connect L'1 and R1 (Fig. 22).

(25). With the help of guides and additional points, we draw the sleeves from M 'to R1. From M ”set aside 4cm to the right. We get point M3. Draw the segment M3N2 parallel to the segment M”N’. Let's mirror the segment M3N2 with respect to M”N' - we will get the segment M2N1. From the point M3, using the guide M'1R, draw the lower part of the eye (Fig. 23).

(26). Let's complete the lower part of the eye by connecting the points M' and M3 with a smooth curve. Let's mirror this arc with respect to M'M" - we will get another lower part of the M'M2 circle. Connect point Q on the elbow line with points R and R1. From the point N2 we set aside the segment N2O2 parallel to N'O'. The segment O'O2 will be mirrored with respect to N'O'. Let's draw the segment N1O1 (Fig. 24).

(28). Let's draw the lines of the elbow sections in the upper part of the sleeve with smooth lines (Fig. 25).

It is necessary to check the size of the fit on the sleeves. It should be 8-10% of Dpr (depending on the properties of the material). Also, be sure to check the pairing of the sleeve parts.

To set up printing of pattern No. 552 of A4 format, use "Test square No. 2"! The test square is located on the first sheet in the pattern file.

Pattern of a men's jacket-Alaska. Men's Alaska jacket with a straight silhouette, medium volume, hip-length. On the front, slanted upper pockets with leaflets and lower pockets with leaflets and flaps. Raglan sleeves, stitched knitted cuff at the bottom of the sleeve. The hood gathers on the wings, and is also pulled together at the back with a strap with a buckle. The fastener is central with a braid-zipper, decorated with external and internal windproof strips. The outer placket fastens with hidden buttons and hinged loops and buttons. There is a zippered pocket on the left side of the inside.

Increases in freedom of fit incorporated in the pattern: Increase in chest girth - 32.0 cm, Increase in shoulder girth - 25.0 cm

The length of the product along the middle seam of the back in finished form, in cm:44 size: 81.9 - 84.9, 46 size: 82.1 - 88.1, 48 size: 82.3 - 88.3, 50 size: 82,5 – 88,5, 52 size: 82.7 - 88.7, 54 size: 82.9 - 88.9, 56 size: 83.1 - 89.1, 58 size: 83.3 - 89.3

Recommended sewing material: we recommend using thin raincoat fabrics such as "MONCLER", jacket fabrics, raincoat fabrics with a hydrophilic membrane for this model; new generation synthetic insulation with a protective layer on both sides, for example, ISOSOFT 34 200 g/m2. Lining fabrics - viscose, mixed lining fabrics. For lining the hood, you can use the top fabric, natural or artificial fur, fleece or any tight knitwear.

Material consumption at width 140cm: 44 size: 3.4 - 3.5 m, 46.48 size: 3.5 - 3.6 m., 50.52.54 size: 3.6 - 3.7 m, 56.58 size : 3.7 - 3.8 m

Pattern details are given with processing allowances.

The degree of complexity of tailoring - "Advanced level"

We want you to enjoy working with Grasser patterns and make the sewing process understandable, soa file with a very detailed description is attached to the pattern, which describes all the stages of work on the product, with step-by-step PHOTOS OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY! Also in the descriptiondetailed information on the required consumption of fabric, materials and accessories is given.

For sewing you will need the following equipment:

Universal sewing machine;
Iron with or without steam;
Double foot;
Single foot;
Lavash for the WTO or a wooden iron;
Ironing table or console;
Hand needle for estimating work;
Machine needles Microtex (Microtex) No. 80;
Paper scissors;
Scissors for cutting materials;
Pliers or press to install buttons.

The pattern in your order will be in two print options:

1. For printing on A4. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4 sheets, then glue the sheets, cut out the pattern and you can sew!

2. For printing on a wide-format plotter. Top pattern details58 sizes are located on 2 sheets measuring 60 * 226 cm.Top pattern details58 sizes are located on 2 sheets measuring 60 * 248 cm.

A photo of the Quiksilver jacket is presented for a visual demonstration of the model of pattern No. 552 from the GRASSER design bureau.

We were inspired to create this pattern by photos from the Internet. It was these photos that “inspired” us, because we do not pursue the goal of completely repeating what we saw: on the contrary, our goal is to create a unique product. The model of the product may differ from the photo from the original source, the exact image of the model is shown in the technical drawing.

Natalya 14.01.2020 04:00:40

Tell me, please, according to the OD 100 cm, 50 size is suitable. But, if you put Alpolux 150 insulation on the top details and 100 on the lining, is it necessary to take a pattern one size larger?

Administrator: Hello, yes, it is better to take a pattern one size larger.

Aigul 21.12.2019 02:12:48

Good afternoon Please tell me which size would be better. OG - 106. FROM - 106. ABOUT - 103

Administrator: Hello, fit size 52

Kate La 17.12.2019 01:06:23

Please tell me: if the fur is placed on the inner bar - where is the pile directed? In the hood or outside?))

Administrator: Hello, we did outside.

05.12.2019 00:14:53

Hello. Help with the hood. Already gone robe lining, top with pockets. And the hood is just a stumbling block. The hood assembled the center, the rear side parts and the front side parts, and then I can’t understand where the outer strap of the hood, the drawstring should look like, small oblique pieces where. If only I could see a photo of the hood.

Administrator: Hello, we are preparing a new detailed description of tailoring for this model in a new format, with a photo.

In the meantime, a hint for you on the hood:

1. Place an eyelet on the drawstring of the hood. Fold the drawstring in half, face out.
2 Stitch (sew) a part of the inner part of the hood to the inner strap of the hood.
3. Stitch (sew) all parts of the hood lining together. When attaching (sewing) the inner strap of the hood to the lining of the hood, the drawstring is also sewn together.

4. Connect the lining of the hood and the hood along the outer cut.
5. Thread the cord into the drawstring, and then this cord must be brought out to the front side of the hood. You can try it on and look at the fitting where you want the eyelets on the hood to be.

6. After you have decided on the grommet on the hood, you need to install it. And then connect the stitching seams of the inner and outer slats of the hood to each other.

Julia 01.12.2019 05:30:26

Good evening. What size is better to take for a teenager with parameters 90-76-93 height 165?

Administrator: Hello, the smallest available: size 44 height 170-176

Maria 02.11.2019 17:57:58

Good afternoon
Could you tell me about the parameters 115-123-111 size 58 will fit?

Administrator: Hello, yes, size 58 will fit the specified parameters.

Daria 10/21/2019 20:37:36

Hello, tell me, can I add collars, is it possible in this model? And if not, how to wear such a jacket, in winter it doesn’t blow your neck if you don’t have a scarf? I wanted to see it live, but I couldn't find a photo in your boasts.

Administrator: Hello, you can model the pattern at your discretion. But in this model, the neck is closed, see photos of sewn products under the main photo.

Tatiana 10/16/2019 00:45:12

Hello) tell me 200 is this insulation for the winter?

Administrator: Hello, yes it is winter version.

Daria 09/25/2019 17:09:48

Please tell me what size is better to take OG-110, OT-91, OB-104.5?

Administrator: Hello, size 54 will fit you

Victoria Poltoran 16.07.2019 12:02:26

Hello, for parameters 99-104-99, what size is better to take?

Administrator: Victoria, good afternoon!
Size 50 will fit with a possible adjustment at the waistline. Before sewing a product from the main fabric, be sure to sew off the layout!

Victoria Poltoran 03.11.2019 04:24:54

Good night. Tell me, 101-94-102 what size do you need ??? Bought 54, seems big, or is it supposed to be???

Administrator: Hello, no, the pattern must be chosen according to the circumference of the chest. Size 50 is suitable for circumference 101.

Check out our sewing instructions -

Elena 03/25/2019 02:55:43

On the parameters 125-110-115 it turns out 62 size is needed? The 58th largest is listed here. Is it possible to use it somehow with such measurements? Thank you

Administrator: Hello, yes, size 62 will fit the indicated parameters. This model is not available in size 62.

The increase in this model is significant, just for a winter model with insulation. If you take two sizes down, the product may fit, but the fit will not be like a winter jacket. You can sew a layout and see on the layout if you are satisfied with the fit of the product according to the pattern two sizes smaller.

Ulyana 05.03.2019 01:52:14

Hello. My husband's chest is 112 cm, but you write that a thick insulation is 200 g. And if I want to sew on a thin spring? .. maybe it makes sense to take the 54th size then? ..and one more request, can you measure the width of the back and front under the armhole for size 54? I will be very grateful to you. I do not want to buy the "wrong" patterns.

Administrator: Hello, yes, for the indicated volume and without insulation, you can take size 54, but be sure to sew a layout, it will help you check the volume and fit of the product.

Natalya 24.01.2019 23:28:19

Good afternoon Please tell me, in size 56, what is the width of the back on the pattern?

Administrator: Hello, the width of the back detail without allowance is 35.2 cm

08.12.2018 22:11:07

Good evening! Please tell me, for the parameters - OG 106, OT 105, OB 106, what is the best pattern size to take 52 or 54?

Administrator: Hello, size 54 will fit you.

Lena 02.12.2018 13:43:24

Good morning. You can sew this pattern for a woman. I sewed 399 Alaska, it turned out very bulky on me. Here the sleeve is raglan, I think the top will not be so big.

Administrator: Hello, this is a male design, we do not recommend sewing women's products according to a male design, since female and male models have significant design differences, especially in such serious products. You can sew as you wish.

Gashina 20.11.2018 02:54:28

Good afternoon, tell me what size to choose for parameters og 112, from 103, about 115. Thank you

Administrator: Hello, size 56 will fit you

Love 09.11.2018 02:36:16

Hello!
For parameters og98, ot75, ob94 for Alpolux 200 insulation, which size is better to take. I usually take 48, but how will the insulation affect?

Paid Sizes

Size	Bust	Waist	Hip girth
size 44 height 170 cm	88	78	94	Payment for goods Buy
size 46 height 172 cm	92	82	98	Payment for goods Buy
size 48 height 174 cm	96	86	102	Payment for goods Buy
size 50 height 176 cm	100	96	106	Payment for goods Buy
size 60	120	118	124	Payment for goods Buy

* As a result of payment, a file with a pattern is automatically sent to the email address you specified. If the file has not arrived, then you need to check whether you entered the correct postal address when paying. In any case, if you do not receive the pattern, you do not need to pay again, just contact immediately at [email protected]

**You can offer your payment option in the website feedback

Patterns are given without seam allowances.

The composition of the set of patterns:

Sample size measurements:

Details of the lining and insulation are cut out according to the patterns of the top. The pick-up and facing are marked on the main patterns.

The description of the sewing of the model is made for size 44.

You will need:
- main fabric 2.50 m wide 1.50 m;
- insulation 2.0 m wide 1.50 m (in 1 layer);
- lining fabric 2.0 m wide 1.40 m;
- Detachable zipper 70 cm long - 1 piece;
- zipper 20 cm long - 2 pcs.;
- interlining (to strengthen the entrance to the pocket with a zipper);
- buttons;
- threads for sewing.

Cutting from the main fabric:
- before -2 details;

- hood - 2 parts;
- collar - 2 parts with a fold;
- windproof strip - 4 parts (internal and external);
- selection - 2 parts;
- turning the neck of the back - 1 piece with a fold;
- upper pocket flap - 4 parts;
- lower pocket - 2 details;
- sidewall of the lower pocket - 2 parts;
- bottom pocket flap - 4 parts;
- facing the entrance to the welt pocket with a zipper.

Cutting from insulation:
- before -2 details;
- back - 1 piece with a fold;
- sleeve - 2 parts (cut out 5-6 cm longer);
- hood - 2 parts;
- collar - 1 piece with a fold;
- windproof strip - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts);
- upper pocket flap - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts);
- lower pocket - 2 parts (stratify 1 into 2 parts);
- sidewall of the lower pocket - 2 parts (stratify 1 into 2 parts);
- lower pocket flap - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts).

Cutting from lining fabric:
- before -2 details (without pickups);
- backrest - 1 piece with a fold (excluding the facing of the neck of the backrest);
- sleeve - 2 parts (cut out shorter by 5-6 cm);
- hood - 2 parts;
- top pocket burlap - 4 details;
- one-piece burlap of a welt pocket with a zipper with a length of 2 lengths of the entrance to the pocket and a width equal to the width of the pocket.

Adviсe:
- if desired, you can insulate the jacket with a double layer of insulation and lay a windproof membrane. In this case, the jacket pattern should be taken one size larger;
- for convenience in work, it is better to sweep away the corresponding parts from the main fabric and insulation immediately after cutting. For front details, this must be done after completing the zippered pockets.

Operating procedure
1. Run a welt pocket in a frame with a zipper. To do this, apply a reinforced non-woven lining of the pocket entrance with the front side to the front side at the place of the future location of the pocket. Draw a markup-frame on the facing, just lay a small machine line along it. Cut the frame in the middle, in the corners - obliquely. Turn the facing inside out, sweep the frame, releasing the piping from the front. If necessary, shorten the zipper by removing excess teeth. Place the zipper under the facing on the details of the front. Sew off the front side. On the braid located below the entrance to the pocket, stitch the burlap. Turn it down, iron it. Fold in half, stitch the other end to the other zipper braid. Sew burlap on the sides.
2. Connect the details of the lower pockets to the sidewalls, fold the wrong side to the wrong side and lay the finishing stitch on the edge. Iron the sidewall allowances to the wrong side, align the pockets with the markings and sew. At the entrances to the pockets, make bartacks.
3. On the chest, make welt pockets with set-in leaves. On the front side, draw a rectangle for the entrance to the pocket. To its lower side in the face, sew a leaflet (folded in half with stitched burlap) to the top - another burlap with a valance. Cut through the front detail, turn out the pocket, straighten, stitch. Align the burlap and stitch along the perimeter.
4. Sew top/bottom flaps and windshields in pairs around the perimeter face to face. Turn out, straighten, iron, stitch. Sew the flaps to the front piece.
5. Prepare the hood in the same way.
6. On the details of the main fabric and lining, perform shoulder seams, sew in sleeves. Sew the side seam and the seam on the sleeve with a single line. On the sleeve made of lining fabric, leave a hole unsewn for turning the product inside out. Sew to the lining already combined along the shoulder sections of the selection and facing the neck of the back.
7. Sew the outer part of the neck stand and the hood into the neck of the jacket, the inner part into the neck of the lining. Connect and grind the neck racks along the upper edge. Insert the lining into the product.
8. Bend the facing of the sleeve, stitch the bottom of the sleeve. Connect the bottom of the sleeve with the lining. Repeat steps for the second sleeve.
9. Install the buttons on the outer windproof bar (it will be on the left), the counterpart on the details of the front (on the right), as well as on the pockets.
10. On the right side, insert an inner windproof strip between the sides and pick-ups of the jacket, swept with a zipper braid, stitch from the inside. On the left side, attach the second part of the zipper, grind.
11. From the inside, hem the bottom edge. Connect the seam allowances of the inner and outer parts of the neck stand with a stitch. Unscrew the product through the hole in the sleeve. Stitch the bottom edge of the jacket, sides and collar.
12. Stitch the outer windshield (like a valve) to the left side.

For men's jacket design we need measurements for an individual or standard figure, a table of allowances for a loose fit, tracing paper and a pencil.

Measures required to build a drawing:

Half-girth of the neck - Ssh

Half bust - SG

Chest Width - W

Back length - DTS

Back Width - Ws

Shoulder Width - W

Sleeve length - dr

Product length - Di

If you do not know how to take measurements correctly, follow the link - Standard measurements -.

Mesh construction

All pattern construction WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES

We build an angle with a vertex at a point Ao.

Grid Width

We measure a segment equal to the width of the product along the chest line Ao a2 \u003d Cr + Pg, i.e. half-girth of the chest + an increase in free fit (9 cm).

Mesh length

From ao down we measure the length of the product (according to the model): DI + 2.5 + 3 cm(on an elastic band) and denoted by a dot H.

From a2 draw a straight line down to the level H and denote H2.

From H to the right draw a horizontal line to the segment a2 D2 and denote H2.

Our drawing consists of 3 parts: back, armholes and shelves.

Calculated from Shs, Shg and Pr on a free bond to these sites.

back width

from point Ao measure the line to the right Ao a \u003d Shs + Pr (3 cm).

Shelf width

from point a2 measure the segment to the left a2 a1 \u003d Wg + Pr (2 cm).

Armhole depth

The depth of the armhole does not need to be calculated using the formula. Values are taken from 20 cm.

from point ao down we measure 20 cm and designate G.

from point G draw a horizontal line to the right and denote G2.

from point A And a1 draw vertical lines down, limiting the armhole section in width and designate G1 G3.

points G1 And G3 divide into hits and mark with a dot G4; from this point down we lower the perpendicular to the segment H H2 and denote H1.

Waistline

from point ao down we measure Dts + 2.5 and denoted by a dot T.

From T draw a horizontal line to the right and denote T1 T2.

Back construction

Neck

from point ao to the right we measure a segment equal to Ssh: 3 + Pshgor (1 cm) and denoted by a dot A1.

from point A1 down draw a vertical line equal to 2.5 cm and denote 1 .

from point 1 to the left draw a horizontal line to a straight line And he and denote 2 .

points A1 And 2 connect with a smooth line.

Shoulder

from point A down we measure 3 cm and put a point 3 .

from point A1 through a point 3 we measure Shp (shoulder width) + 1 cm. and denote P.

Armhole

Let's find an auxiliary point 4 . For this segment a G1 divide into three equal parts (see fig.). points P 4 G4 connect with a smooth line.

You can draw this line by hand or use a template.

Building a shelf

Neck

from point a2 down we measure 2 cm and designate 5 .

from point 5 to the left we measure Ssh: 3 + 2 cm. and denote A2.

from point 5 down we measure the segment 5 A3 \u003d a2 A2 - 1 cm.

points A2 A3 we connect with a smooth line by hand or according to the "droplet" pattern.

If it is difficult for you to draw a line by hand, then we build a right angle A2 8 A3 and from the point 8 cut the corner in half with a dot 9 . This will be an auxiliary point for the neck.

Shoulder

from point a1 down we measure 5 cm and put a point 6 .

From a point A2 through a point 6 measure shoulder width Shp and denoted by a dot P1.

Armhole

Now cut a1 D3 divide into equal 4 parts, denote the lower part 7 .

We connect the dots with a smooth line P1 7 G4.

Sleeve construction

A sleeve of a shirt cut differs from a set-in sleeve in a larger width and a lower height of the rim.

The height of the eyelet and the degree of deepening of the armhole are interconnected. The more voluminous (wider) the shape of the product, the lower the height of the rim.

To build a sleeve, draw two mutually perpendicular lines centered at a point O1.

Eye height

Eye height - segment O1 O2- is determined depending on the shape of the product:

O1 O2 = 3-7 cm- for products of voluminous soft form - (height of the rim from 4 cm),

O1 O2 = 8-11 cm- for products of a more relaxed form with moderate softness - (the height of the rim is from 4-9 cm),

O1 O2 = 12-14 cm- for products of the smallest volume - (eye height 2-4 cm).

O2 P1 \u003d O2 P2 \u003d Dpr: 2, Where DPR- the length of the contour of the armhole, and R1 R2- unfolded sleeve width.

Sleeve Width

From O2 with a radius equal to half the length of the armhole (in the drawing of the shelf and back), we make notches on the horizontal line, passing through O1 and denoted by dots R1 R2.

Segments O1 R1 And O1 R2 divide in half and erect perpendiculars.

Now let's define the auxiliary points for the design of the sleeve eye: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 .

Segments P1 3; 3 O2; O2 4; 4 R2, divide in half.

From the obtained points we restore perpendiculars.

From points 5 And 6 1 cm, from the point 7 - 0.5 cm, from the point 8 - 1.5 cm.

We draw an eye line through points R1 3 O2 4 R2.

The length of the sleeve

from point O2 down, measure the length of the sleeve: O2 M + 3 (on an elastic band) \u003d Druk.

Sleeve width at the bottom

On a horizontal line from a point M measure the sleeve width (according to the model): M M1 = M M2 = Sh hand below (finished).

Elasticized cuff

We draw a rectangle with a length equal to the bottom of the sleeve and a width equal to the width of the elastic band (if the rubber will be ground together with the cuff).

And if the elastic is inserted into the cuff, then + 0.5 cm.

Collar construction

The construction of the stand-up collar is very simple and is a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back. Collar height is up to you. Expand the top of the collar a little.

Pocket

The model features welt pockets with zippers with leaflets.

We draw a leaf 19 cm long and 3 cm wide.

2 sheets per pocket.

Let's draw a burlap pocket, the length of the entrance is equal to the length of the leaflet, and the shape is arbitrary.

plank

The plank is rectangular in shape. We draw a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the shelf in the center + the height of the collar (Fig. a).

The plank consists of one piece with a fold.

If you want rounded ends of the plank, then we round the ends of the plank as shown in figure b and when cutting we need 2 parts.

The design of the men's jacket is finished.

Before laying out the parts on the fabric, check the number of parts and the direction of the shared thread on each of them.