Newspaper tubes for weaving boxes. Weaving a box from newspaper tubes with your own hands. Weaving from newspaper tubes of an oval casket and box

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Before you start weaving a square box, you need to learn how to make a square bottom. We will warn you right away that the square shape often causes difficulties for beginners, so beginners are advised to start with small round baskets. You can get acquainted with the order of weaving such baskets in our last article.

There are several ways to make a square bottom:

1. Use ordinary plywood (we will talk about it in more detail below);
2. Weave the bottom using tubes, the bottom will turn out beautiful, wicker. But this option for beginners at the initial stage will be a little difficult;
3. A piece of corrugated cardboard pasted over with paper, wallpaper or fabric can act as the bottom for a wicker box.

Let's first consider this option for making a bottom.

Cardboard bottom covered with vinyl wallpaper

Maintaining geometry while weaving a rectangular bottom is one of the most difficult tasks for a beginner. In such cases, a cardboard bottom is used, which is in no way inferior to a wicker one.

In order to make a cardboard bottom we need:

• Vinyl wallpapers. You can replace them with anything: from plain paper to fabric;
• adhesive pva;
• Cardboard with double corrugation.

From the cardboard we cut out the bottom of the sizes we need. Wallpaper must be divided into two rectangles of different areas. We cut the first to fit the bottom, and make the second a little larger (for bending).

Thoroughly coat the cardboard with glue on one side. We take a blank of a larger area and put cardboard on it. Turning over, smooth the wallpaper with a polyurethane spatula to remove all bubbles. Of course, you can do without it, but such a tool will simplify the work and make it better.

Smoothed wallpaper sticks in minutes! Having smeared the base with glue, we firmly press the bend to the cardboard, as if pulling it from the edges to the center.

Important! In some cases, the wallpaper may not stick to each other. In such situations, it is recommended to glue the corners with a more powerful adhesive.

Next, apply pva to the base and firmly press a smaller piece of wallpaper (cut according to the size of the bottom). After that, smooth and expel the bubbles with the same spatula. The bottom is ready!

Don't be alarmed if the corners are slightly off. Glue them with a more powerful glue, for example, polymer "Master", "Dragon" or "Titan".

Now, so that during the night the bottom does not arch and dry thoroughly, it must be put under pressure. After a day, it will be possible to proceed to the next stage of weaving a box of newspaper tubes: creating holes for the racks.

To do this, we need an awl with an extension and a rather sharp tip. Holes need to be made at the ends of the bottom around its entire perimeter, at a distance of about 2.5 cm from each other. Note! The awl should go straight. Do not damage the bottom walls.

Now you need to glue the racks in each hole.

Lubricate the holes with pva glue, and remove its excess with a cloth. The deeper you manage to place the rack, the stronger the structure will be.

Compared to bottoms made by gluing racks between two blanks (shown in the photo below), this method is particularly elegant. Products are thin and neat, which is great for creating small baskets and boxes.

In order for the glue to grab well and we were sure that the racks would not fall out, it is necessary to leave the bottom for a couple of hours to dry. After that, you can safely continue to work.

As a precaution, we will make the inside of the box on the side where the smaller piece of wallpaper was pasted. This is done in case the basket is placed on a damp surface.

In this case, nothing will peel off, since the outer edge is wrapped with wallpaper. Also, to protect against moisture and give the structure greater strength, the bottom is covered with acrylic varnish.

Let's start raising the racks. You need to do this as follows:

Taking an auxiliary, new tube, we start it under the rack (pay attention to the photo below). Next, we bend the rack, turning it under the neighboring ones and lifting it up. Repeat this action with all the other tubes.

Important! Pay attention to the corner! In order for the corner post to maintain its position, it is necessary to take it towards you (see the photo below).

Next, we bring the previous rack under it and raise the corner up. Thus, the original corner post seems to hug the new corner post and lead it behind the next one. This method allows you to get an even angle.

Having done this around the perimeter of the bottom, take out the auxiliary tube and start the last remaining rack in its place. As a result, we got a neat bottom.

Now the main task is to beautifully braid the resulting frame in any convenient way, with chintz weaving or with a rope.

Paper for the bottoms or imitation wrinkled fabric / leather.

In case wallpapering cardboard seems too banal or just doesn't suit your taste, don't be afraid to experiment! For example, use regular A4 sheets or watercolor paper.

Take an ordinary sheet of A4 office paper and lightly spray it on both sides with a spray bottle. Next, crush into a lump, making small folds, and hold in your fist. This is necessary so that each fold is well saturated with water and slightly loosened. Carefully unfold the wet sheet of paper and place it on the film.

We take a brush and paint the sheet on one side with a light stain. Turning it over, paint dark.

Advice! It will be much easier to turn the sheet over and not damage its integrity if you cover it with a second piece of film, turn it to the other side and remove the piece on which the paper was originally located.

A very interesting pattern appears on the front side of the paper: veins dyed with dark stain appear through the light one.

After drying, the paper will slightly “shrink” and outwardly begin to resemble skin. Before gluing it to the cardboard, it is recommended to spray the sheet from the spray gun on one side.

After varnishing such bottoms, they turn out to be unique and quite attractive.

Alena Bugrova offered her step-by-step video tutorial for decorating the bottom of a wicker basket. This method requires more effort and time and consists in the multilayer application of patina. The result will pleasantly surprise you!

Weaving a square bottom from newspaper tubes using a loom

Without a machine, a beginner in this business will not be able to keep the racks in the correct position. They can taper towards the center, taking away the geometry of the bottom, so getting an even rectangle without having experience behind you is not easy. There are several types of homemade machines. Let's consider each of them separately.

Machine No. 1 - arched perforated plastic corner

Such a machine is constructed using an arched drywall profile. It rigidly fixes the racks and dimensions of the product. In one of the parts of the corner (where there are holes), the tubes are inserted and not removed until the end of weaving, and the other (where there are recesses) is used to actively move the racks when creating the bottom. The opposite ends of the tubes are placed precisely in these chamfers.

Step by step and in detail the topic of weaving on this machine was covered by Olga Ladoga. Watch the tutorial in this video:

To maintain evenness and shape consistency, it is recommended to substitute skewers or knitting needles to the extreme racks.

In order for weaving to be comfortable and enjoyable, one condition must be observed. tubes used as racks, must be absolutely dry, and workers (used directly in weaving) - wet.

There are several ways to braid the racks: “calico” (you need one tube) and “reverse rope” (you need 2). Whipping chintz, you need to take turns winding the tube behind the rack and in front of it. When weaving with a “reverse rope”, the bottom will turn out to be more even, and will not bend.

You can braid the racks as follows: in case you weave with “calico”, leave the ends of the working tubes on the sides, approximately every 2-3 rows. In the future, they will be side racks. The result should be the following:

How to achieve this:

However, if you braid the racks completely, leaving no ends, then you need to add tubes to the two bare walls. This is done at the end of the work, after we remove the bottom from the machine.

With this type of work, glue new racks every 3 rows (see the photo below):

After that, it is recommended to braid the racks with a simple rope, preferably 2 rows. Thus, they are firmly fixed. And only after that it is already possible to raise the racks.

Machine No. 2 - cardboard combined with clothespins

If you do not have the opportunity to make a machine from PVC corners, make it from simple improvised materials, for example, from a piece of cardboard. Just fasten the racks with clothespins, at the distance you need from each other. Important! Racks must be strictly fixed on one side and movable on the other.

Taking a piece of cardboard, draw stripes on it at a distance of 1.5-1.8 cm.

To each line, observing the line, we attach newspaper tubes using clothespins. The tubes can also be fixed with masking tape, instead of clothespins. The adhesive tape can be easily removed without leaving any residue.

Machine No. 3 - foam plastic (or cardboard) in combination with tailor's pins

As a material for the manufacture of the machine, many use foam plastic, which can be purchased at any hardware store. The softness of the material allows you to stick tailor's pins into it, which can even be replaced with toothpicks. They serve as a kind of limiter for the tubes, in the process of braiding they are not taken to the sides. The distance between the posts can be made 2-2.5 cm, depending on your preference.

The weaving pattern on this machine is discussed step by step in the video:

Keeping right angles

Often, craftswomen who have taken up this business for the first time have difficulties with the evenness of the corner posts. To achieve perfect evenness of the corners, it is necessary to weave on a rigid form! The corners must be sharp. For this, not only a cardboard box of the shape you need is suitable, but also other improvised materials that can keep their shape well. It is possible to use even large children's LEGO sets.

When raising the racks, remember that the extreme ones should pass exactly in the center of the corner. Before you start braiding the walls, it is recommended to insert 2 additional racks into the corner. Thus, this corner post will not be single, but triple.

Olga Ladoga explains the basic principles of braiding corners in her master class:

Weaving a large laundry box

If you are just starting to weave, we advise you to use a cardboard bottom. It will be difficult to take on the implementation of a wicker bottom without some preparation: after all, you need to follow the instructions and monitor the evenness of the corners and each rack.

Since the newspaper tube laundry basket is designed for a large load, in the case of a cardboard bottom, it is recommended to make a bottom double: so that the racks are located between two sheets of cardboard.

If you are planning to use plywood, then the bottom of the bottom for the linen box can be made single, in this case, the racks must be fixed as tightly as possible with a furniture stapler and polymer glue. To prevent the staples from being visible, you need to take plywood from 6 mm thick, otherwise they will come out from the inside.

When forming double bottom plywood or MDF, it will look much neater if you take two sheets 4 mm thick. There will be no joints, the bottom will be smooth both inside and out.

If your choice still fell on corrugated cardboard, you will need two blanks made according to a template. Don't forget to cover them with wallpaper or other paper equivalents. Between these blanks we glue the racks on polymer glue (look at the photo below)! This will give the structure more strength.

Leave to dry under pressure overnight. After that, we braid around the perimeter with at least one row of ropes. You can braid with a rope in 3 or more tubes, or you can - in 2 tubes. This step will save us from the gaps between the blanks.

Now, in a way already familiar to us, we raise the racks up, turning them over the next one, and align them.

If you start the racks for the second adjacent one, the frame will take on the following form:

Now it remains only to braid the racks with any of the patterns. For beginners, "chintz" may be suitable, for weaving which takes a minimum amount of material. Having put the form inside, we proceed to weaving with moistened tubules. We continue to the height we need.

When weaving with a “simple rope”, about one and a half times more material is spent than when weaving with “chintz”.

You can finish the job by cutting the racks. Paint the resulting “stumps” with the same solution that was used to paint the tubes so that ugly cuts are not visible.

Now the box needs to be primed. Mix the following ingredients in 1:1 proportions: varnish and water, or water and pva glue. After that, the casket must be thoroughly greased and dried.

Leave it on for at least a day. After a day, it will become stiff and will creak pleasantly. Then we cover it with acrylic varnish in 1-2 layers and let it dry.

Rectangular lid with inner rim

In order to make such a cover, you need to follow the following sequence of actions:

We glue 2 racks to the cardboard, as shown in the photo.

Next, having applied glue, we attach the second piece of cardboard, and send our frame to dry under pressure.

Weave with a “rope” to the sizes we need, braiding both racks. The size must not exceed the inside size of the box.

Having tried on, and making sure that the lid does not reach the edges of a couple of centimeters, we continue to braid already only one rack, bending the second. It will serve as the beginning of our future side. For the convenience of weaving, you can put books under the cover.

Having reached the desired size, turn it over and proceed to weaving the side of 2-3 rows. Then we cut off the racks and again try on the lid on the box.

Since the corners turned out to be not strong enough, these racks must be bent under the side, fixed with glue, and then cut off. Since the rest of the weave is dense, we simply cut off the rest of the racks.

A box of newspaper tubes can serve not only as a laundry basket, but also as a storage for toys. Singing them is no more difficult than knitting, and the possibilities are very diverse. In a similar way, you can make things of various sizes: it can be a small box or chest, very useful in everyday life.

Get inspired with us and create something beautiful!

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Nowadays, weaving from newspaper tubes is becoming increasingly popular. This activity is not difficult enough, besides it is very exciting and interesting. The cost of acquiring the source material is almost minimal, since absolutely everyone has everything that is needed to make a round box from newspaper tubes.

Old newspapers or newsprint.
Ordinary knife.
Thin needle.
PVA glue.
Food colorings.
Colorless varnish
Brush for processing the finished product.

Step-by-step description of making a box.
1. Direct weaving of the box will be carried out from newspaper tubes, which will require approximately 200-220 pieces. In order to get a newspaper tube, you need to cut a newspaper or magazine, using a regular knife, across into strips, the width of which is about 5 cm. If tubes of darker colors are planned, then you can use a newspaper. For tubes of light and bright colors, newsprint should be used, as the letters may show through when painted.

2. In order for the tube to be long and neat, the knitting needle must be used as thin as possible. A knitting needle is placed on the edge of the newspaper strip at an angle of 35-40 degrees. The smaller the angle, the thinner the tube. From thin tubes, the product is neater and more delicate. Tightly pressing the edge of the paper to the knitting needle, you need to twist the tube. Lubricate the remaining upper edge with PVA glue and screw the tube to the end. Pull out the needle. The tube is ready.

3. To paint the tubes, you can use stain and food coloring.
To paint with a stain, it is enough to lower the tubes into a bottle with this solution and immediately remove it. Leave to air dry for 3 hours.
To paint the tubes with food coloring, it is necessary to dilute them according to the instructions and lower the tubes into a container with paint for 5-7 seconds. Dry in a warm place until completely dry.

4. To weave the bottom of the box, you need 4 groups of tubes, 2 in each, lay a cross - crosswise on top of each other. These tubes are called struts.

5. Substitute 1 working tube under the lowest group of tubes and braid each of the groups in turn.

6. In order to build up a working tube, it is necessary to fold one edge of the next one in half and insert it into the working one. There is no need to glue anything.

7. After 6-7 rows of weaving, the risers must be divided in such a way that 8 single ones (out of 4 groups) are formed. Substitute, similarly to the first, another working tube. Next, weave the product with a “rope”. To do this, you need to grab the riser from above with the first working tube, and the second from below. Braid the second riser in the same way, only the tube that was on top will go down, and the bottom one up.

8. After the bottom of the desired diameter is ready, the working tubes must be glued, and after drying, carefully cut off.

9. To weave the walls of the box, it is necessary to raise the risers up. To do this, we start one riser from below under the nearby one and carefully lift it up. We do the same work with the rest.

10. If necessary, increase the risers.

11. Insert the form into the product. When using it, the product will turn out to be more accurate and even. Substitute 2 working tubes.

12. Weave with a “string” 2-3 rows. In order to get a pattern, 1 working tube must be replaced with a different color. Then weave according to the intended pattern.

13. After weaving the wall of the box, glue and cut the working tubes.

Many thanks to Sovenok (Paper Owl) for such a detailed, intelligible, incredibly useful master class. Her caskets are the most chic I have ever seen!

“Good time of the day, dear residents of the Land of Masters! I am fulfilling my promise to make an MK for weaving a box with a lid. In no case do I pretend to be the ultimate truth, but I will simply tell you how I do it. I hope that this MK will be useful to you.

2.
Devices: a plastic salad bowl (its top diameter is 23 cm, the bottom is 16 cm, the height is almost 6 cm), a foam ball with a diameter of 10 cm (it is pasted over with paper, therefore 10.5 cm), a 1.4 mm knitting needle, on which I twist the tubes, a knitting needle 4 mm, which I use for diluting the tubes and digging holes between them. The photo lacks a glue gun, with which I glue the cross from the tubes to start weaving, and a weight.

3.
I twist the tubes from printed newsprint (in rolls). I twist strips 35 long and 7 cm wide onto a 1.4 mm needle. The thickness of the finished tube is a little more than 3 mm.
When weaving, I always moisten the working tubes with water so that they become elastic. I always use dry tubes for standing pipes and try not to bend or break them if possible.
Since during the weaving of the previous box (its tapering part) the risers of printing paper were fairly “worn out”, I specially prepared the required number of tubes from consumer paper for them. In the process of weaving, I will replace all the risers with new ones and use them for bending. I hope that consumer paper will perform better than the looser printed newsprint.

4.
For coloring the tubes, I used Novbytkhim water stain (without adding varnish and primer) and stamp paint. Stain and paint diluted only with water. I applied three colors of tubes: 1 - Mocha + a little Mahogany + water = brown, 2 - Lemon + Mahogany + water = yellow-orange, 3 - blue stamp paint + a little Rosewood + water = dirty turquoise.
Since the bottom of the box had already been woven before the shooting of the MC, we will have to start with a verbal description, namely, with the calculation of the number of tubes. I measure the circumference of the shape (salad bowl) at the widest point = approximately 72 cm. Since when weaving I try to maintain a distance between the risers of no more than 1.5 cm, I will need 72 / 1.5 = 48 risers at the widest point of the box. Since in the process of weaving the bottom from the center I have to double the risers, I begin to divide the resulting figure by 2 to determine the number of risers for the cross: 48 / 2 = 24. Then 24 / 2 = 12. Perhaps enough to divide. 12 risers can be obtained by making a cross of 6 tubes (each with two ends).

5.
I start weaving the bottom. I splice the tubes in two and with the help of a glue gun I glue them into a 3 × 3 tube crosspiece. I braid the cross with two rows of ordinary rope. I spread the standing ones one at a time and continue weaving with a rope. In the process of weaving, after 3-4 rows, I double the stand-ups and after the 7th row I breed them one at a time. I continue weaving again, double the risers again and after the 8th row I spread them one by one. I weave a couple more rows and, while still flat, lay the bottom on the form (salad bowl). I put a weight on top and braid the shape almost to its top.

6.
Photo result. If you look at the ruler, you can see that it was possible to maintain a distance between the risers of 1.5 cm.

7.
I prime the weave without taking it out of the mold: with the help of a brush I impregnate it with a deep penetration primer (or “under the wallpaper”). I'm waiting for it to dry well. After drying, the weave becomes hard and crackles when pressed. Priming helps to keep the shape of the already finished part of the product during further weaving without a template.

8.
I take out the well-dried lower part of the box from the mold and put a ball inside it. In the process of weaving, I will apply it from the inside to the front wall of the product and press the risers to it to give the wall a rounded shape. For the convenience of weaving, in addition to the ball, it would be nice to place a weight in the center on the bottom, but I don’t have it. Rolling the ball to each riser, I press each riser to the ball, I try so that it “looks” at the center of the bottom and does not deviate to the sides. Weaving without a form turns out to be looser than on the form, so I try to press the rows closer to each other.

9.
This photo shows the process of replacing the risers. Last time, when weaving the tapering part of the casket, the struts were very quickly ruffled, and half were broken. It may not have been visible in the photo, but there was such a problem. This time I decided to replace the risers in the process of weaving with others (from consumer paper), catching, thereby immediately a couple of bunnies. Now you don’t have to worry - there will definitely be enough for bending the length of the risers. I hope that consumer paper will behave more steadfastly and that the tubes will withstand all manipulations and subsequent bending. I cut the struts with scissors at as large an angle as possible, smeared the cuts with glue and put on new struts.

10.
I continue weaving on new stands. Since the box was designed to be three-colored, I gradually introduce a yellow-orange color, imitating melange. Then dirty turquoise.

11.
In the process of weaving the tapering part of the strut, I carefully assemble it into a bundle in a spiral. Next, I take out the ball and weave without a shape. In order to narrow the shape of the box even more, I periodically press the bunch of risers down with my hand.

12.
It's time to finish the box. I substitute another working tube and weave one row of rope from three tubes.

13.
The last row of the rope of three tubes is completed. The distance between the risers became a little less than 1 cm. In order to weave the bend of the “rod”, I cut the risers “at the root” through one with wire cutters. The distance between the remaining risers became 2 cm. This will allow you to weave the “rod” bend without any problems and hide the tails inside the box.

14.
Before weaving, I moisten the bends of the risers. I usually do this with a small hard brush. The photo shows the first stage of weaving the “rod” bend of three tubes: auxiliary tubes (blue) are substituted for ease of completion.

15.
The photo shows the next stage of weaving the “rod”, which is repeated until the end of the row.

16.
The bending of the "rod" is completed. I want to draw your attention to the fact that the ends of the tubes stick out a little up. Since the walls of my box are not vertical, but “littered” inward, the end plane of the bend is also inclined inside the box. And the standing ones tend to be located in the same plane.

17.
I start to hide the tails. If the tubes are dry, I moisten them again with a brush to give elasticity. This is important at this stage. With a thick knitting needle I make a path for the tube and then I stretch the tip of the stand into the hole formed. In the photo, I showed with a red line the place where I am trying to lay the riser.

18.
Shown here in red line is the first riser, which has already been laid in place between the bend tubes (taken from the other side)

19.
In this photo, the finished bend with risers stretched inside the product. I will trim them after priming and drying.

20.
And this is the result of the work done. I'm going to cover.

21.
The calculation of the number of risers for the cross of the lid was done according to the method described above, based on the circumference of the finished lid. The diameter of the finished lid will be 16.5-17 cm (together with the bend). I start weaving the lid. I splice the tubes by 2 and glue the 4x4 cross with hot glue. I apply a square to keep a right angle. Pay attention to the joints of the tubes. I specially arrange them so as to cover them with working tubes.

22.
I wet the working tubes and start weaving. I bend one tube (usually by 2/3) and go around the crosspiece to start weaving. Weave 2 rows with a rope. I usually do it in the air, and not on the table, wrapping the cross.

23.
The next rows are already on the table. To keep the corners, I put a sheet of paper lined at the right angles under the weaving and combine the risers with the lines on the paper. Next, I divide the risers by 2 and weave 3 rows with a rope

24.
3 rows of rope are ready. I separate the stands one by one. To avoid creases, I help with a thick knitting needle. Next, weave 4 rows with a rope.

25.
I double the stands. Next, you need to weave 4 more rows and again divide the risers one by one. Then another 5 rows of rope.

26.
The last 5 rows are woven. I moisten the stands with a brush and begin to weave the “rod” bend.

27.
The lid on the table is placed with the front (top) side up. At the beginning of weaving, I again use auxiliary tubes (blue).

28.
From the outside it looks like this.

29.
The fold is half woven.

30.
Once again, a closer photo of the process of weaving the bend, from the opposite side from me.

31.
The bend is complete. All struts stick out on the front (top) side of the lid.

32.
I begin to stretch the risers to the wrong (lower) side of the lid in order to weave the inner side on them. At the same time, I lay the risers in the direction of their natural inclination - to the right. With a thick knitting needle, I pre-make a hole for each strut. I make a hole, stepping back from the edge of 2 rows of rope and 2 standing to the right. She showed with red lines how she counted 2 rows down and 2 standing to the right.

33.
I continue the process. Stands on the left are already stretched inside out.

34.
Ready! All the struts are on the inside (bottom) side of the lid, and on the outside it turned out to be a nice pigtail.

35.
For weaving the inner side, I use a cylinder twisted from a strip of cardboard. Its diameter can be adjusted with ordinary clothespins and can be used many times to weave the inner sides of lids of various sizes and not only lids. Comfortable. For the cylinder, I used candy box cardboard.

36.
To form the inner side, I wove 2 rows of ordinary rope. Next will be a bend, which will add a little more height to the side.

37.
The bend is very simple: I lay each riser in front of two adjacent ones and bend it inward. I like how it looks from the outside and from the end, that the tails are inside the lid, but I don’t like how the cut stumps look afterwards . I will try something else.

38.
The bend is complete.

39.
I'm preparing the cover for priming. I cut the ends of the risers, but not “under the root”. I will do the final pruning after the primer has completely dried.

40.
Cover fitting was a success! The inner rim with a little effort enters the base of the box. It was not in vain that I suffered with its fit last time, but now I have all the moves (rows) recorded!

41.
Feel free to prime the lid and basket. The primer is perfectly absorbed into the paper. I'm not sorry, I'm drinking.

42.
I decided to dry the lid in this form - on a cardboard cylinder. This may help to tighten the inner rim of the lid a little so that it slides freely into the base.

43.
I cut the risers on the lid and the box.

44.
To be honest, I don't really like how the chosen colors are combined on the box. Therefore, I decided to try to fix the situation with a patina. I hope that it will smooth out the transitions and “make friends” of the colors. I mixed white and brown acrylic paints. Very little brown.

45.
I apply the patina with a foam sponge.

46.
This is what the box looks like after applying the patina. I dried it for a couple of hours and applied varnish. I apply the varnish not thickly and rub it with a hard brush. I try not to be shiny. I use Poli-R lacquer for saunas.

47.
Ready! You can admire the work done.

48.

49.

50.

I hope that this master class will be useful to you and my efforts will not be in vain. I tried very hard and was in a hurry to finish it today, so I took the final photos of the finished work in a hurry, without waiting for the “successful” sun. Please forgive me for this. I look forward to your comments, suggestions, corrections. I wish you all a great mood and success in your work! According to the tradition I have established in my blog, I am embarrassed to answer NOT all comments, but I will definitely answer ALL questions. Agree, it’s more convenient: if they answer, then there is a question on the case! shake your hand"

Recently, weaving from newspaper tubes is gaining immense popularity. Such work will help develop fine motor skills of hands, patience. In this article, we suggest you see how to make a box from newspaper tubes.

Starting simple

The process of making a box from newspaper tubes can be seen in the example of a master class that is suitable even for beginners.

For work, we need a bunch of unnecessary newspaper tubes, cardboard, scissors, a pencil, a disk.

This master class is provided with step-by-step photographs, where everything is very clearly shown. The first step is to make tubes. Watch the video on how to make such tubes correctly. They can be made not only from a newspaper, but also from office paper.

The next step is to paint these tubes. To work, you need water, cosmetic pigment or water paint, a plastic bottle. Painting technology: pour water into a bottle, take the tubes and wet them on one side, then turn them over and wet them again on the other side. At the end of the tube, you need to put it on a tray to dry.

We are waiting for the tubes to dry. There are more than 300 of them.

Take the disk and circle it on cardboard. Then cut out four circles. You can glue the cardboard with self-adhesive. We will need cardboard, because we are making a box of newspaper tubes with a cardboard bottom.

Take the tubes and start gluing them on cardboard, the length between the tubes is 1 cm, as shown in the photo. We coat the tubes with a thick layer of glue, glue the second circle on top.

Take the first tube and bend it as shown in the photo. Next, the first newspaper tube needs to be bent up the second after the next column, the second tube is already at the top. Take a closer look at the following photos.

We repeat the same steps.

We add more and more tubes. When the end remains, you need to drop glue into the wide part of the newspaper tube and insert the narrow side of the other newspaper tube.

We reach the first column, from which weaving began.

The next step is to lift the walls of the box, as shown in the photo.

We begin to make a kind of “rope” using three newspaper tubes: take the bottom one and wind it up every two columns, that is, for the third.

The same manipulations must be continued with further newspaper tubes.

When we get to the very beginning, it is necessary to bring the tubes out.

Again, as shown above, we lengthen the tubes and begin to weave. Example: stretch tube number one over and under the posts, then the second tube under and over the posts.

We continue to work, lengthening the tubes.

We continue weaving in a circle.

When we have woven about ten cm of the box in height, then we need to weave it to the column from where we started weaving, add the third newspaper tube and start the weaving pattern, we wind each lower tube by the third column.

Weave another circle.

Here's what should come out:

We continue weaving, building up newspaper tubes with the main color.

Weave the next few rows like this.

Weave until we reach the first column, from which everyone started. At this stage, we bend the tails into the inner part of the product.

Using a thin hook, you need to hide the posts inward, as shown in the photo.

Spray the remaining ponytails a little with water, and then trim them.

The process of creating the cover will be shown in the following photos, which we will consider step by step. First, once again glue the tubes on the cardboard, coat with glue and stick the second disk.

• magazine tubes - 54 pieces
• cardboard sheets
• a sheet of light thick paper
• glue paper
• adhesive universal cosmofen
• double sided tape
• stationery knife

The bottom is cut out of cardboard in the form of a square measuring 19 * 19 cm with rounded corners, another of the same square is cut out of paper. Magazine tubes - racks are evenly laid out on the bottom surface. They will need 28 pieces, each of which is cut in half, since half the length will be enough for the height of the box.

All elements are well smeared with paper glue and covered with a paper square on top. The whole structure is pressed down with something heavy and left to dry completely.

Now the work on weaving the walls is in progress. The racks are bent into a vertical position, a working magazine twig is taken, bent in half and braided around them in the form of a figure eight.

Thus, 14 dense rows are produced, the working ends are cut off and glued together.

Weaving ends with folding the racks one after another, the top is covered with a thick layer of clerical glue and after drying, the excess ends are cut off with a clerical knife.

To create an openwork cover, two identical frames with rounded corners are cut out of cardboard, 16 * 16 cm in size and 2.5 cm wide.

One of the prepared blanks is covered with double-sided tape. The tubes are laid out vertically in pairs, the upper film is removed from the adhesive tape gradually, as we weave.

Having finished weaving the openwork, the halves of those magazine sticks that remained from the weaving of the box are laid out on the edges of the frame. The whole structure is once again covered with adhesive tape and closed with a second frame.

The tubes sticking out of the frame are intertwined in a circle with a simple binding in two rows, after which they are bent and turned into racks.

On the racks, weaving of the walls of the cover is carried out, having passed 2 rows, the ends are cut off and glued together.

The remaining racks are kneaded by hands to give them elasticity, bent inside the lid, threaded through the walls and go to the top of the product. Now a pattern is made on the upper plane by threading the uprights at an oblique angle to the frame back inward.

All elements of the pattern are thickly smeared with paper glue and, after drying, excess protruding residues are cut off.

The finished product is varnished - an acrylic-based impregnation in mahogany color in several layers.

At the final stage, a piece of beautiful fabric is glued to the bottom with a special universal glue. Your jewelry box is ready!

We figured out the openwork chintz binding, but you probably know some other types of weaving from magazine tubes that adorn such products. Tell us about them in the comments.