What to sew a jacket for the winter? What to sew a down jacket from? We sew a down jacket. Pattern of a down jacket Sew a fashionable down jacket for a girl with your own hands

It's getting colder outside, so it's time to warm up. In this article, we will consider how to sew a women's down jacket with our own hands. The task is quite difficult, but quite doable. Let's add some unique elements that will make our product exclusive.

Let's take the oversized style as a basis, which continues to gain popularity among fashionistas. Today we will try to sew quilted down jacket with a hooded collar.

Materials and tools

The outer material for sewing a down jacket can be polyamide, polyester or nylon. All of them consist of synthetic fibers, have increased wear resistance, do not wrinkle, do not let moisture through and protect from wind. Polyamide is also good because it removes evaporation and dries quickly. A distinctive feature of nylon is its lightness, increased water and steam resistance properties.

ATTENTION! If you intend to wear a jacket in conditions of high humidity, then it is better to choose a material with water-repellent impregnation.

In classic down jackets, waterfowl down is used as a filler. because it has natural water-repellent properties. Such fluff will never stick together or fall off, since sweat and human skin fumes do not settle on it. But it will be very difficult for a beginner dressmaker to sew a jacket with such a filler, and it is not cheap, so let's focus on the simplest option - synthetic winterizer.

Choose polyester for lining- synthetic knitted fabric, outwardly similar to wool. It is affordable, easy to care for, anti-static and virtually wrinkle-free.

From the accessories, we need magnetic buttons, which we will use as a fastener.

Standard set of tools:

• sewing machine;
• overlock;
• scissors;
• tape measure;
• graph paper;
• pencil;
• needles, pins.

Down jacket pattern

The pattern will be as simple as possible, so we make a minimum of measurements:

• down jacket length;
• back width;
• armhole height;
• the length of the sleeve

IMPORTANT! When taking measurements, it is necessary to immediately lay in them an increase in the freedom of fitting. For outerwear, it is about 8 cm.

We build a pattern drawing

• Down lay the collar width 25–30 cm + the desired length of the down jacket. Draw a horizontal line at the level of the collar. From the upper left point to the right, lay off the width, which is equal to the width of the back * 2 + the width of the smell (about 20 cm) + 6 cm.
• Mark the central axis. From it, at an equal distance, lay armholes, 5 cm wide, 25–30 cm high.
• To build a sleeve pattern, we build a rectangle. It can be made straight or tapered. We measure the width of the armhole according to the drawing of the main part. We make the head of the sleeve rounded.

Cutting materials

• We cut out the main part from the outer material and synthetic winterizer.
• Additionally, from the same fabric we cut two parts of the selection and one collar.
• We cut out the sleeves immediately from the outer fabric, lining and synthetic winterizer.

IMPORTANT! It is necessary to leave 2.5 cm for allowances on each side and 5 cm for processing the bottom.

Stages of sewing a down jacket

• Sections of details from outer and lining fabrics we process on an overlock or on a sewing machine using a zigzag stitch.
• We fold the main rectangle with the additional detail of the gate face to face, accept, and then grind down them on a sewing machine. Similarly, we sew two selections on the sides.
• We proceed to cutting out the lining for the main part. We cut a rectangle of this size to fill the space on the wrong side between the bands and the collar.
• Carefully we put a synthetic winterizer inside matching corners.
• On the front side, with the help of a remnant, we outline the lines of lines along which we will quilt the fabric. So that the lines do not part, we fix them with safety pins and lay basting ties using a thin needle. On the collar and collars we sew (quilt) 3 layers of material, outer, synthetic winterizer, outer. In the place where the lining will be, we quilt 2 layers - outer material + synthetic winterizer.

ATTENTION! So that the synthetic winterizer does not slip on the fabric, it should first be sewn around the perimeter. Since the fabric turns out to be quite dense, it is more advisable to use a walking or Teflon foot of a sewing machine.

• The same way we quilt the sleeves. When applying a synthetic winterizer to the sleeves, it is necessary to step back 5 cm from the bottom edge (cuff). The insulation is not sewn to the bottom allowance, because it is designed to be folded inward and connected to the lining.
• Machine stitching the shoulder seams. So that in the future the down jacket does not slip off the shoulders, we make two parallel seams at a distance of 2 cm between each other and insert a lace into them, which will be pulled around the neck. The lace can be taken ready, but it is better to sew from the main fabric.
• Sewing the side seams of the sleeves from the outer fabric (which is already quilted with padding polyester) from the wrong side, then we grind the side seam of the sleeve lining. We fold the lining and the main sleeve face to face, sew the lower sections. Turn it inside out and insert the lining inside. Then he tucks the cuff inward, basting, ironing and laying a decorative seam along the front side at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge.
• We sew the sleeves into the "body" of the jacket. To do this, we find the centers of the okats and connect them with the shoulder seams. We stick them into the armholes with safety pins and tack them in such a way that a small fit is formed. We make a machine seam, the upper thread should pass along the part of the sleeve.
• We sew the main part of the lining. To do this, we put the main part with the synthetic winterizer up and connect it with the lining on three sides, except for the hem.
• Through the bottom edge, turn the down jacket inside out and pin, tack, and then sew on a typewriter lining to the main material. We make a line not reaching the middle of about 10 cm. On the other hand, we do the same operations. Turning out the jacket. We bend and iron the middle. With the help of safety pins, we fix the unstitched area and manually sew it with hidden ties. The lining is sewn on.
• Sew on magnetic buttons at an even distance from each other.
• In addition to buttons, you can add a belt. We cut it immediately on the fabric. The width of the belt detail, taking into account the allowances, is 10 cm, the length is 150 cm. For additional rigidity, we glue non-woven or dublerin with the wrong side. We sew short sections from the inside. We twist, we iron. We make a hem along a long cut by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, iron. We outline and lay a decorative stitch on the front side at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.

The use of warm and cold seams in down jackets. For several years I worked at an enterprise for tailoring down clothes, headed by the author of the book "Tourist's Atelier" Brink I.Yu., which describes in detail the technology for manufacturing such products.

I do not pretend to be the ultimate truth (we just did it) and I will not touch on the very basics of sewing clothes with down filling, so I omit the questions of what materials the down bags are made of, how many layers they include, how the filling with down is done, how the compartments are closed and etc.

Cold seams - this is the connection of the layers of the down package with a line through. This technology allows you to create compartments of the desired size and shape, but does not provide the same thickness of insulation (it is minimal near the stitching and maximum in the middle of the down compartment, A is not equal to B). If you really want a beautiful stitch, then cold seams are quite applicable.

If the thermal protection of the product is more important, and beauty is a little less, it is logical to use warm seams. I most often saw warm seams on products of a straight silhouette and a rather large volume - these were suits for the harsh northern oilmen))

Warm seams are a method of sewing a down bag, in which narrow (3-5 cm) strips of braid or fabric are sewn between the layers of material over the entire width of the part, the so-called. bulkheads. Bulkheads allow you to maintain the stability of the thickness of the insulation in the product (A equals B).

You need to understand that a product with warm seams no longer turns out to be as beautifully “inflated” as with cold seams (although a certain bulge of the compartments is preserved). Therefore, most often I saw such seams on internal insulating down bags. At the same time, the product itself can have constructive lines of arbitrary shape, they can not be tied to the geometry of the stitches (or not to quilt the top layer at all).

First, the individual parts of the product are prepared:
Bulkheads are adjusted to individual parts of the insulation package - on the shelves, on the back and sleeves according to the markup, first on one part of the down package, then on the other. Only after that, a partial line along the contour is performed on the part (below I described the methods for processing shoulder seams and sewing the sleeve into the armhole, in which this contour line is not needed), holes are left for filling and the compartments are filled with fluff.
Bulkheads are dissected near the cuts of the parts.

Often, ordinary edging tape is used as bulkheads, which is 15-32 mm wide. (Using the width of this tape, you can adjust the thickness of the down layer). Sometimes narrow strips of the same material from which the fluff bag is made are cut out for bulkheads. If the bulkhead does not end at the cut of the part, then the next strip is overlapped on the previous one and the line is continued. The braid should be soft enough, keeper and rep ribbons will not work, they are hard.

1. Shoulder seams can be assembled in the usual, cold way, or otherwise (it will be warmer): the upper compartments, closest to the shoulder seams, are made smaller in height than the lower ones, about 2 times:

Shoulder seams are connected in layers separately:

It turns out a single compartment of the down package in the shoulder area. Under the weight of the package, the layers on the shoulders of course flatten a little, but with this method it is then convenient to sew the sleeve into the armhole using a bulkhead.

2. The side seams of the product, the lower seams of the sleeves and the crotch seams of the trousers (this is if you suddenly sew trousers with down filler) can also be collected both in a cold way, as well as to make them voluminous. Most often, these seams are joined in a cold way, i.e. they simply grind off, flattening the ends of the bulkheads. I have been thinking for a couple of days about whether it is worth making a voluminous and unflattened down bag in the side area? To do this, you must first connect the side seams of the product, and then stitch the bulkheads on the camp from one side through the back to the second side. And the sleeves can be confused and assembled with ring bulkheads. Can. But why? Probably, we do not need extra volume under the arms, so we connect the side seams of the back and front and the lower seams of the sleeves in the most usual way, as in any other product.

3. But the sleeve is sewn into the product with a bulkhead so that its upper compartment does not flatten: the bulkhead is sewn along the line of the sleeve, first to one part of the package, then to another. Then the sleeve is sewn into the armhole of the product in the same way, in 2 steps. With this method of sewing in the sleeve, the preliminary contour line on the armhole of the shelf and back is not laid, the compartments are filled with fluff after the sleeve has been sewn in.

4. The collar in a down product, as a rule, is a single compartment and is sewn into the product in the usual way.

Lastly, the compartments of the prepared down package are filled with down through the previously left holes and these holes are sewn up.

Vera Olkhovskaya

To sew a down jacket or a warm jacket, we need three types of fabric and applied materials:

• raincoat fabric - fabric for the "top";
• lining - fabric for the wrong side;
• insulation - fabric for laying between the "top" and the wrong side.
• tape for sealing seams;
• zip fasteners;
• buttons;
• laces, trailers and clips for drawstrings.

How to choose fabric for the “top” of a down jacket or jacket if you sew with your own hands

There are many fabrics for jackets.

For example, raincoat fabric "Canada", raincoat fabric "Alaska", raincoat fabric "Gloria", Duspo, raincoat fabric "memory", cotton memory, raincoat fabric "on milk" printed and plain, raincoat fabric on knitwear, memorial "prince", parka "Canada", raincoat fabric melange , bologna, raincoat fabric "taffeta", raincoat fabric "gabardine", taslan ... The list of fabrics can be continued.

Almost everything is suitable for sewing down jackets, and here you need to be guided, rather, by your own taste and idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat you want to get in the end, rather than recommendations.

The most important component of raincoat fabric is water-repellent properties, which can be achieved both by impregnation with latex or polyurethane, and by melting the top layer of the fabric.

An example is the fabrics "barrier", "gloria", "bologna" which protect both from moisture and from wind. These are good materials, but they do not allow air to pass through, which makes products made from them not always comfortable to wear.

Therefore, it is important to look for membrane-coated fabrics. Membrane materials are two-layer and three-layer - the latter are more expensive.

Air-permeable but water-resistant fabrics are less common. An example is taslan fabric, besides, taslan dries very quickly. It is made with various impregnations.

To simplify the process of cutting and sewing, you can buy for a jacket or down jacket already “a raincoat fabric quilted on a synthetic winterizer” and even a “raincoat fabric quilted on a lining”. With obvious advantages, here we may encounter both the disadvantages of stitching and the inability to choose one of the fabrics separately.

It is better to sew laconic products from such sandwich fabrics, the open sections of which are easy to edging.

How to choose a lining for a jacket or down jacket

Lining fabrics are also very diverse. In order not to “spread the thought along the tree”, we will determine the main types of lining fabric suitable for sewing down jackets, parkas or jackets:

• sliding;
• non-slip;
• quilted with insulation;
• and fur.

With sliding linings, everything is more or less clear - these are thin fabrics made from synthetic, natural or mixed fibers. They can be either dyed or printed. Remember that a pure silk lining can shrink with every wash, so this fabric needs to be soaked before cutting and make enough stock and allowances, anticipating this very shrinkage.

Sliding pads are called differently. Often the name of the fabric depends on the nature of the weave. For example, satin, satin, diagonal. The linings are also jacquard, that is, the interlacing of the threads they have is some kind of complex pattern.

Names can also go according to the composition of the fabric. For example, polyester, viscose, nylon, silk.

As a non-slip lining, you can use a cotton or woolen bike or flannel. If the fabric is completely natural, then do not forget the future significant shrinkage.

And remember, if the lining does not slip, it can only be used in products of large volumes - oversized, trapeze, cocoon.

A good option for a non-slip lining can be fleece - it washes well, does not shrink, allows air to pass through and retains heat well.

Quilted lining with insulation, in turn, also has several varieties. There are two main ones - the stitch seam is made with threads or it is a thermal stitch. Quilted lining on synthetic winterizer is more common. With the obvious advantages of this lining, of course, there are also disadvantages.

The main disadvantage is the inability to select materials individually. For thread quilting, large, easily unraveling stitches can be a disadvantage, and for thermal stitching, stiffness.

Fur lining, you guessed it, can be artificial or natural.

Natural fur is an expensive pleasure, requiring skills and a subtle understanding in choosing. As for artificial fur, the main criteria should be the softness of the knitted base of the fur and the small length of the pile.

Do not confuse faux fur and footer with "fur" fleece - they have different density of the knitted base, and the fur is different.

If you bought a “fur” footer instead of fur, you can make a lining out of it in the form of a vest or with sleeves, and put the down jacket on a regular lining.

Warming materials that are found and that can be used for sewing at home

fluff

If you are sewing a down jacket with down, you may need a thick fabric for the cover so that the down jacket is machine washable. The cover with down can be removed from the down jacket, having previously removed the downy "quilt" from it, if such an option is provided for when sewing. It is convenient for washing.

When buying fluff, you need to understand that 100% fluff cannot be, small feathers will also come across among it. But, the higher the quality of the down, the less feathers.

If you collect down yourself or buy it in a rural area, do not forget to disinfect it before sewing a down jacket. This can be done in a workshop where pillows are restored.

The best goose down and with it no frosts are terrible if it is covered from above with a membrane raincoat fabric.

When using natural down, remember that it can cause allergies, especially in children.

Biofluff Sustans

Bio-fluff is a bio-based insulation that is patented in the USA. It has all the properties of down, but is hypoallergenic, more durable and holds its shape better. However, it is rare and expensive.

holofiber

Hollofiber, polyfiber, fiberskin, isosoft and similar polyester insulation can be considered analogues of fluff in terms of thermal insulation properties. With them, you can also sew inexpensive jackets and down jackets, stuff pillows and children's toys.

It perfectly tolerates machine washing, and together with the "membrane" any frost.

Of the shortcomings, only the form of release can be called - balls - you have to work with it like fluff.

Of similar materials, primaloft can be called - it is very soft, but resistant to deformation. It was used to sew warm clothes for the American army.

Wool

Natural wool insulation made from sheep or goat wool is also good and does not cause allergic reactions, but they absorb moisture strongly and have a noticeable weight compared to synthetics.

They require dry cleaning, as they shrink when washed.

Because of these shortcomings, the popularity of wool batting today is low. But wool is often added to synthetic fibers.

Mixed insulation retains heat well even at minus 25 and can withstand delicate machine washing.

For sewing and knitting clothes, fibers of alpago, llama, angora and cashmere goats are used.

Batting

Today it is rarely used, but in some cases batting is indispensable. The composition of batting can be either pure wool or half-woolen with the addition of cotton or synthetic fibers.

Of the obvious advantages, it can be noted that batting keeps its shape and heat well, but still it is quite heavy and, absorbing moisture, becomes even heavier.

Sintepukh

Perhaps one of the most common insulation for clothes. Sintepukh is also called artificial swan down. It is produced in different degrees of hardness and different thicknesses. The width of the roll is 150 cm, and the thickness is indicated by the numbers 100, 120, 150, 200, 300.

The number indicates how many grams of the material per square meter.

In order to roughly estimate the thickness by numbers, “weave” is a rather thin sintepuh, for demi-season products or for a separate stitching of the “top” and lining, 150 is of medium thickness, all-weather and “three hundred” is thick, winter.

Of course, a second thin layer can also be added to medium and thick insulation, but this is already a technology. Let's get back to materials science.

Thinsulate

Another artificial down, which is considered one of the most resilient, lightweight and warm insulating materials. Manufacturers claim that thinsulate is warmer than natural down. But it is very expensive and therefore we have not taken root.

Sintepon

Has a wide range of applications, wear-resistant, lightweight and soft. The old synthetic winterizer was relatively dense, and the new one has hollow fibers and has become better at retaining heat.

The main disadvantage is its lack of elasticity - it loses its thickness from wearing and washing, and is also not suitable for very cold winters. The limit of the synthetic winterizer is minus 10 degrees.

The second name of the synthetic winterizer is silicone.

The thickness is also determined by numbers from 50 to 600 g / m2, width - 150 cm.

Hollosoft

Lightweight and springy material similar to thinsulate. Its fibers are hollow and spiral. Hollosoft springs well and holds heat remarkably.

It can be used for sewing quilted items, for example, for a down jacket or a warm vest with fur trim.

Thermoloft

Another light elastic insulation that is suitable for sewing jackets and parkas, as well as overalls, down jackets. Density-thickness from 80 to 250 g/sq.m.

Sherstopon

Even by the name it is clear that this is a mixture of synthetic and natural fibers. It is made with the addition of sheep and camel wool.

Thickness and density are determined by numbers from 100 to 250 g / m2, width - 150 cm.

Sheartopon is used both for sewing clothes and for making sleeping bags and quilts.

Slimtex

Thin and dense enough insulation that is suitable for sewing jackets, coats, raincoats and fur coats, as well as for ski trousers and overalls. Slimtex is also used for sewing blankets, in the manufacture of shoes and hats.

This is a synthetic non-woven material, the density of which is also determined by weight from 100 to 250. Width - 150 cm.

Slimtex is a good choice for sewing winter overalls.