How to sew shoulder pads to the product. Self-made shoulder pad. Raglan shoulder pad made of molded synthetic winterizer Foam rubber shoulder pads
It seems that shoulder pads have long gone out of fashion. Or haven't entered it yet. After all, they have experienced their “boom” more than once, fashion designers either introduce them into favor, or completely forget about them.
In the late 80s, not a single model of women's blouses, dresses, jackets could do without shoulder pads. And then they somehow imperceptibly "flew" from our shoulders. We said goodbye to this detail with relief!
But not so long ago I rehabilitated the shoulder pads. And how without them, when they slide over the shoulders, they constantly shift to the back. Maybe it's just my figure. Or I do not quite correctly calculate the number of loops for blouses - they are quite spacious, I like a deep neckline. At first, I solved this issue with pins - I fastened the shoulder seam to the bra strap. And then she remembered the shoulder pads and “equipped” all her
Of course, buying shoulder pads is easy. In stores for needlewomen there are a great many of them, thick and thin, large and small, of all colors and shades. But I have two reasons to sew the shoulder pads myself.
Firstly, the nearest handicraft store is quite far away. A ready-made blouse is sometimes needed urgently. Secondly, as a rule, ready-made shoulder pads are made of synthetic fabrics and foam rubber. This kind of stuff doesn't work for me. Therefore, in 20 minutes (sometimes less) I make suitable summer shoulder pads for myself. Summer - because they are very thin and are designed not so much to raise the shoulders as to hold the blouse on them.
Of course, the first shoulder pads took a little longer, because you need a pattern. I suggest you use my measurements and adjust according to yourself. We need three patterns of different sizes.
I marked them with length and width. We just draw an arc. When cutting out a pattern, it is better to fold the paper in half, so it will turn out symmetrically. And remember that the height of the arc should in no case exceed the width of the shoulder, so that the shoulder pad does not stick out and does not have to be redone.
Before cutting the shoulder pads, measure the shoulder width of the blouse and decrease (or increase) the height of the bow.
For one pair of shoulder pads, we need to cut out six large parts from the fabric. The fabric I usually use is completely junk - an old sheet, a worn-out T-shirt, a used nightgown and other rags that match in color. 4 parts need to be cut out of a more or less decent fabric, and a completely junk rag is suitable for the two inner parts.
Often for shoulder pads I take scraps left over from sewn things. When there are very few shreds, I make the top and bottom of the shoulder pads in different colors.
From a completely junk fabric (anything is suitable here, even old tights), we cut out the “stuffing” of the shoulder pads. I used sleeves from an old men's T-shirt, just need two layers of fabric. I cut out two smaller patterns and two small ones.
We put the lining on the cut piece like this.
We quilt the “stuffing” on the machine. (You can also quilt with your hands. I used to do this, especially when thick shoulder pads were needed and there were much more “fillings” than two layers. Then I cut it out of thick fabric or batting.) Put the quilted lining on the bottom of the shoulder pad, close top.
If they are from different fabrics, then keep in mind that the wrong side of the filling, that is, layers of fabric of different sizes, should be in contact with the lower part of the shoulder pad, the one that will lie on the shoulder, and not on the blouse.
Overcast the edges of the shoulder pad on the machine with a zigzag seam. I go around the perimeter twice, for greater edge strength. If you want the shoulder pads to look neater, then instead of “zigzag”, their edges can be processed with bias tape to match the fabric.
Finished shoulder pads need to be sewn to the blouse. I put them under my bra straps first.
Adjust to lay flat. Then I put on a blouse and pin up the blouse with pins to the shoulder pads along the line of the collar. (The picture shows a fragment of a tunic)
I carefully pull them out of the straps, take off the blouse and sew them to the blouse only along the collar.
When I put on a blouse, I adjust the shoulder pads under the straps - they hold the blouse well in one place, preventing it from moving. And I feel much more confident. Here is a fragment of a blouse with a shoulder pad.
And although summer things are most often cotton, sometimes tricks are suitable for them.
Now shoulder pads bear little resemblance to their counterparts from the eighties. In those days, jackets with shoulder pads looked more like hockey equipment than an elegant model. Now the shape and size of the shoulder pads have changed, they have become more delicate and inconspicuous, but nevertheless they have one thing in common: with their help, each model acquires clarity of lines, more style and improves the posture of its owner.
Shoulder pads come in a variety of shapes, sizes and thicknesses. They are chosen depending on which silhouette is in fashion: with straight wide or narrow sloping shoulders. Shoulder pads can also be used to compensate for minor posture defects.
The shape of the shoulder pad depends on the type of sleeve and on the width of the shoulder. For models with set-in sleeves with a high rim, regular shoulder pads (1) are used. Raglan shoulder pads (2) are suitable for heavily flared shoulders and sleeves with a low rim, as well as for raglan sleeves and all one-piece sleeves.
Regular shoulder pads
Such shoulder pads should be put into clothes so that the edge of the shoulder pad extends 1 cm onto the sleeve. If the rounded sides of the shoulder pad are not symmetrical, then the longer side of the rounding is turned towards the back. Pin the shoulder pad to the shoulder seam by inserting a pin from the right side (3). Sew the shoulder pad to the shoulder seam allowances. Attach the ends of the shoulder pad to the seam allowances for sewing in the sleeves using small thread jumpers (4).
Raglan shoulder pads
For models with regular shoulders, pin so that the bulge of the shoulder pad is under the shoulder seam and, accordingly, the sleeve hem.
On models with extended shoulders, pin the shoulder pads so that the rounding of the top seam of the sleeve and the shoulder seam falls on the bulge of the shoulder pad. Pin the shoulder pads to the shoulder seam by inserting a pin from the right side (5). Sew it to the shoulder seam allowances.
Shoulder pads of own production
If you are unable to purchase the right shoulder pads, follow our recommendations and sew the shoulder pads yourself.
Of the materials you will need: a rigid gasket, such as interlining or felt, for the liner - a volumenfliz gasket or batting. You can also use cotton for raglan shoulder pads.
REGULAR SHOULDER PADS ARE SEW SO...
According to scheme A, draw parts 1 and 2 in full size (cell dimensions 2x2 cm). From a stiff pad or felt, cut out two pieces according to these patterns. For the liner, cut out several parts 2 from the volumenfleeze or batting, with each next part being slightly smaller than the previous one along the rounded contour. Then pin 1 layers of liner to part 1 so that the smaller part is on top. Align straight cuts.
Lastly pin piece 2 of stiff padding or felt (6). When stitching individual layers, hold the shoulder pad in an “arch” and pierce through all layers (7). If the shoulder pads are intended for an unlined dress, blouse or jacket, cover them with a piece of main or lining fabric. Cut out piece 1 from the main or lining fabric, folded in half with the fold aligned with the straight side of the piece.
Leave an allowance of approx. 2 cm. Wrap the padding around the shoulder pad and secure with pins (8). Lay a zigzag stitch close to the cut of the shoulder pad. Trim the seam allowance close to the stitch (9).
AND THIS IS HOW RAGLAN SHOULDER PADS ARE SEWED
Draw the details of pattern 1, 2 and 3 in full size (the dimensions of one cell are 2x2 cm). Cut out four parts 1 and 2, two parts 3 with a fold from a gasket or felt. Stitch parts 1 and 2 according to the reference marks with a zigzag stitch. Then sew the middle seam (10). Reinforce the shoulder pad with batting or cotton wool. Notch the lower part of the shoulder pad (part 3) along the line marked INCUT, and pin it to the shoulder pad from below, while sliding the edges of the notch over each other.
Keeping the shape of the shoulder pad, sew the pieces (11). If the shoulder pad needs to be tightened, cut out parts 1 and 2 from flaps of the main or lining fabric with 1 cm allowances in all sections. Cut out part 3 with 3 cm allowances in all sections. Sew parts 1 and 2 according to the control marks, then sew the middle seam. Pin the parts from the main or lining fabric with the wrong side to the corresponding parts of the shoulder pad, lay a fold on the bottom part over the notch. Stitch the cuts of the skin with a zigzag stitch. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching.
A beautiful sleeve is the hallmark of any jacket, jacket or coat. A properly sewn-in sleeve should fit the arm freely without creases and distortions, the sleeve sleeve should be without folds and gathers, with a slight roll. To correctly sew a sleeve, you need to know a few rules that will allow you to do this.
Rice. 1. Sleeve and jacket allowances
Along the sleeve, between the fitting points, sew 2 machine seams with a stitch length of 4 mm.
Rice. 2. Lay two lines along the allowances
The distance between the seams is 1-2 mm. Both seams should be laid along the eyelet allowance and not go over the sleeve (Fig. 2-3).
Rice. 3. Two lines around the sleeve
Take the lower threads and pull the sleeve slightly along the hem, distributing the folds in such a way that the fabric is fitted, but large folds do not form (Fig. 4-5).
Rice. 4. Fit the sleeve along the collar
Advice! If small wrinkles still form, slightly loosen the thread tension. To make it easier to fit the fabric along the rim, after gathering, steam the rim with an iron with light pressure.
Rice. 5. Finished okat
On fig. 6 shows the control points marked on the product and sleeve with snares.
Rice. 6. Reference marks on the sleeve and jacket
Align the high point of the eye with the shoulder seam, chip off (Fig. 7).
Rice. 7. Chip by marks
Distribute the okat between the control points, chip and sweep (Fig. 8).
Rice. 8. Sleeve hem pinned on marks
Rice. 9. Stitching in the sleeve
When sewing the upper half of the eyelet, so that wrinkles do not form, slightly stretch the fabric to the left and right of the needle (Fig. 10).
Rice. 10. Stitching in the upper part of the sleeve
Cut off the folds formed on the allowances of the upper part of the eyelet, not reaching 2 mm to the seam (Fig. 11-12).
Rice. 11. Trim seam allowances
Iron the eyelet with light pressure with a steamer.
Rice. 12. Sleeve allowances
From the padding polyester, cut out a strip 4 cm wide and about 20 cm long (Fig. 13). The strip is attached only on the upper side of the okat (on the planted area). Sew a strip of padding polyester along the okat.
Rice. 13. A strip of synthetic winterizer for sleeves
Sew from the side of the product, as shown in fig. 14. The stitch should run 1-2 mm to the right of the sleeve sewing stitch.
Rice. 14. Sew a strip of synthetic winterizer along the collar
A strip of synthetic winterizer along the okat in attached form - fig. 15.
Rice. 15. Ready-made strip of synthetic winterizer
Determine the center of the shoulder pad, align the shoulder pad with the shoulder seam (Fig. 16).
Rice. 16. Determine the center of the shoulder pad
Sew the shoulder pads by hand from the side of the sleeve eyelet with wide stitches (Fig. 17).
Rice. 17. Sew on the shoulder pad by hand
Try on the product, sew the thin rounded side of the shoulder strap with a few fixing stitches to the shoulder seam (Fig. 18).
Rice. 18. Fixing stitches on the edge of the shoulder pad
Turn the okat to the front side, steam it and form a beautiful even roll along the okat (Fig. 19).
Rice. 19. Formation of a roll over the top
Stitch the left sleeve in the same way. Now you know - share it with others!
Rice. 20. Finished jacket sleeve
How to make your own shoulder pads? Over the past few years, artists have been very persistent in offering shoulder pads for fashion items, not only for models with set-in sleeves, but also for raglan and one-piece sleeves. Is there a difference between them, what's new in their manufacturing technology? In the modern volumetric form of things, which is achieved by cutting, shoulder pads also play an important role. They help emphasize this or that shape of the shoulders. At the same time, shoulder pads are distinguished for set-in sleeves, for raglan sleeves, one-piece, and also gathered along the collar. Any of them are easy to do yourself. Shoulder pads for set-in sleeves From the main or lining fabric, cut along the oblique outer details of the shoulder pads in expanded form. Their value depends on the type and size of clothing (1). From batting or thin foam rubber, cut out 3-5 layers of the gasket: the lower and upper layers are the same in size, equal to half of the outer part, and the intermediate ones - each subsequent one is slightly smaller than the previous one (2). Lay the gasket parts one on top of the other, from largest to smallest (3), and cover with the second large part (4) on top. Sweep the folded parts of the gasket and put on the outer part (5). Fold the fabric in half, covering the pad. Fasten all layers of fabric with a pin at the tip of the shoulder pad. Sew the shoulder pad in the direction from the point to the fold, stepping back from the edge 0.7 cm (6). After you give the shoulder pad a convex shape, take the excess fabric on the bottom part into a tuck. Trim the cuts and process with a zigzag stitch. Iron the sections of the shoulder pad through a damp cloth (7). Lay the shoulder pads on the shoulders, as shown in the upper picture. In products made of dense fabrics (jacket, coat), the shoulder pad should protrude 1-1.5 cm beyond the seam. Fasten the shoulder pad in three corners with pins, and then sew from the wrong side of the garment to the seam allowances of the armhole and shoulder seams. Shoulder pads for gathered sleeves These inset shoulder pads are narrower supports that are typically inserted into a gathered or pleated sleeve sleeve. For this, hard material is used, for example, calico or starched calico. Fold a strip of fabric about 40 cm long and 10 cm wide along in half (do not iron the fold) and lay it with soft folds 2-3 cm wide, which then fasten with a longitudinal stitch, placing it closer to the inner cut (8). The length of the finished shoulder tab should not exceed 12 cm. The shoulder tab may not be laid in folds, but in the form of a visor. Sew the tab to the seam of the armhole, as shown in Figure 9. Shoulder pads for one-piece sleeves and raglan sleeves. foam rubber (12). Sew both parts of the upper outer piece (13). Iron the seam. Stitch the darts of the lower outer piece (14) and the gasket pieces (15). Lay the parts of the gasket on top of each other (from largest to smallest) and quilt a little - first in the middle, then with stitches; directed perpendicular to the oval slices. Insert spacer between upper and lower outer pieces (16, 17). Sweep all layers of the shoulder pad along the contour (18), process the sections with a zigzag stitch. If necessary, cover the shoulder pads with main or lining fabric. Sew the shoulder pads as shown in the figure: with the sharp end towards the sleeve.
Shoulder pads were used back in the 80s of the last century. True, at that time the products were of a rough design and resembled a form for a hockey player. Now the size and appearance of these "pads" have changed, they are almost invisible under a coat or jacket.
Not all women understand why shoulder pads are needed, which is a pity. After all, these small products help to create a more stylish image, giving along with clarity of lines, and they will help to correct the posture of its owner.
A little about the varieties of shoulder pads
Products may vary in shape, foam thickness and size. When choosing one or another thickness, you should rely on fashion trends, look at what silhouette is now popular. Both straight shoulders and sloping, as well as sloping lines can be in fashion. Soft "pillows" on the shoulders will help to make the outfit an actual style. Shoulder width and sleeve cut also play an important role in choosing linings. Some models require raglan shoulder pads, while others require regular pads.
How to make shoulder pads with your own hands?
If you could not buy linings of the required size and shape in the store, you can always sew the “cushions” yourself.
For work you will need:
- scissors;
- foam rubber, thickness not less than 1.2 cm;
- sewing machine;
- fabric for covering the product;
- pencil and ruler.
The foam rubber needs to be laid out on the table and draw triangular-shaped linings on it. Their number will depend on the height of the shoulders. If they are straight, then you can make two-layer "pillows", and if sloping, then 3 layers are needed. The parameters of the foam triangles will be as follows: 3 by 6, 10 by 17, 5 by 10.
Now proceed to the pattern of the shoulder pad so that the middle remains intact. Apply an adhesive to the workpieces from the inside (sold in a specialized store). Now attach a large one to the smallest workpiece, slightly stretching it with handles.
Next, bend the workpiece so that the thin edges are connected, secure the entire structure with a pin. Let the product dry for at least 3 hours, during which time the glue will dry, and the foam rubber will shrink and take the correct shape.
When the time is up, the lining will be ready. For beauty, it can be covered with a cloth, and it is allowed to do this only on one side, the one that will be in contact with the skin. To do this, cut the fabric of the desired shape and stitch it to the foam using a machine with a zigzag seam.
If you are going to sew the product to a jacket or other thing, then attach the shoulder pad so that its upper middle point is aligned with the shoulder seam. In this case, align the thick edge along the armhole.
How to sew raglan shoulder pads with your own hands?
If almost every woman can sew an ordinary lining to her favorite thing, then raglan-shaped shoulder pads often cause difficulties. In fact, attaching such a “pillow” to the right place in the outfit is not so difficult. The main thing is to try once, and then everything will go like clockwork.
To make everything work out neatly and well, follow the simple instructions:
And a few more tips, if you are attaching a “cushion” in clothes with traditional-shaped shoulders, then pin the shoulder pad so that its bulge is located under the shoulder seam. If the garment has an extended shoulder, then fix the lining with a pin from the outside.
Sew the shoulder pad over the seam allowance.
When choosing shoulder pads for your jacket, give preference to products that do not extend beyond your shoulders. The only exception will be ladies with full hands. If you want to create a slightly raised silhouette, then choose thicker linings without changing their width.
If you want to prolong the life of the foam pads, then every time before washing, rip them off from the outfit. In order not to suffer with such manipulations, it is recommended to attach "pillows" to opaque clothes using buttons. Place them not on the sides of the corner, but exactly along the line of the shoulder, fastening on the inside seam.
Another way to fix the foam pad without using buttons and threads is to glue it. To do this, you can purchase a special Velcro or adhesive tape in the store.
