How to sew a large patch pocket with a zipper quickly and easily. Patch pocket "briefcase"

Earlier we published patterns of two types of voluminous briefcase pockets, today we offer another option.

Everything said earlier about briefcase pockets fully applies to this model. The briefcase pocket can be used wherever it is appropriate: on trousers, jackets, skirts, bags and, with appropriate processing, as a separate accessory.

This is a medium sized briefcase pocket pattern. If necessary, you can reduce or increase it yourself by proportionally changing all its parameters.

Sequence of processing pocket briefcase model 3:

We process the upper cut of the pocket. We bend the allowance, iron it and lay the line. The cut itself is pre-overcast or folded by 0.5-0.7 cm.
We grind the corners of the barrels from the wrong side.
We iron the pocket along the line dividing the plane of the pocket from the side parts and the bottom part and lay a line along facial side.
We iron the fold along the line of the middle of the fold and lay a line with internal side of the pocket. This stitch secures the crease.
We notice the allowance for the hem of the edge of the pocket: the side and lower outer edge of the fold, iron it.
The final stage - we adjust the pocket to the detail of the product.

Advice: As a variant of the processing sequence: you can first iron all the corners of the folds with an iron and only after that proceed to machine work. In this case, make sure that when sewing the barrels of the pocket, the corners of the folds match exactly.

The upper corners of the pocket can be fixed with buttons or just a bartack, or you can not fasten it.

This pocket can be either with or without a flap.

The pattern is given in actual size. with seam allowances.

Pocket dimensions:

pocket width 20 cm;

pocket height 22 cm

Seam allowances 1.5 cm.

Print the pattern sheets on the printer, connect them according to the diagram and cut them out.

Be sure to check the scale. On a printed sheet with a depicted square of 10x10 cm, the sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters.

Experiment and have fun. Good luck!

If you have not yet built a base pattern for yourself, you can use our

Sewing pockets is not an easy task, and many beginners in sewing avoid these complicated details. But without it, you can not imagine a backpack or jacket. In fact, it is difficult to understand the technology of sewing a pocket, but it is possible. Especially if the whole process is shown step by step, as in today's master class.

I will show you how to sew a zippered patch pocket. This type of pocket can be found on vests, or in wide trousers. I will sew a pocket from, and if you are interested in how this can be done, read on.

To sew a voluminous patch pocket, I needed:

textile
zipper lock 22 cm.
adhesive fabric
threads in color
single-leg sewing machine foot for sewing on zippers
tailor's tool: scissors, pins, ruler, chalk

How to sew a voluminous patch pocket with a zipper step by step

To sew a voluminous pocket on a backpack, I cut out the details of the pocket with the dimensions:

1 - pocket top 5.5 x 23. Round off the corners, as in the photo
2 - pocket top 9 x 28
3 - pocket lower part 16.5 x 27. Cut off in the corners 2 x 2 cm. as in the photo

2. I glue parts 1 and 2 from the wrong side with an adhesive cloth in order to stiffen.

3. I combine the middle and put parts 2 and 3 on top of each other, right sides inward. I fix with pins.

4. I sew on a typewriter, overcast the edges on an overlocker, you can use a zigzag stitch.

5. I sweep the cut with hand stitches. I iron with a steam iron, or through wet gauze - an iron.

6. I sew the corners of the bottom of the patch pocket

7. I overcast the edges on the overlock, you can use a zigzag stitch.

8. I fold the edges of the parts inward by 1 cm. I tack with hand stitches. I iron with a steam iron, or through wet gauze - an iron.

9. I sew the hem with a straight line, retreating from the edge by 1 mm.

10. I cut out two parts that will serve as clamps for the zipper. I fold them inward, iron them.

11. I fasten the latches with pins along the edges of the pocket detail.

12. I unfasten the lock and put it on the pocket detail, as shown in the photo.

13. I sew on the lock with the help of a single-horned foot for sewing on a zipper.

14. I build the lock from the front side.

If it's not clear, then here it is - this line along the edge of the zipper lock.

15. Now I sew the lock on the top of the pocket.

Hello my Reader!

In Joint tailoring No. 10 “We sew backpacks for schoolchildren and students!” in all three versions of the backpacks, overhead bulky pockets are sewn on the front wall of the backpack.

Despite the fact that even a beginner can cope with the sequence of stitching the details of backpacks according to the finished description, the lack of experience and skills in processing some knots needs to be compensated for with more accurate tips and recommendations.
These are exactly the “little things” that are usually not talked about on videos or in master classes, since usually the main goal is to show and tell the technological sequence of stitching.
These “little things” are developed with experience, altering one knot several times, and provided that the craftswoman knows how to quickly draw conclusions and look for new solutions to the problem.
I want to save your nerves, time and give you the opportunity to get the most out of the process of sewing backpacks and bags for your loved ones.

Recently, varieties of voluminous patch pockets have become popular among manufacturers of bags and backpacks and handbag craftsmen. I am no exception.
There are several reasons for this:
- no need to cut the details of the walls and think about how to process the cuts so that it is neat so as not to stretch the frame;
- you do not have to select the fabric for turning by tone;
- not always mortise pockets to the place on the model or a certain fabric, and sometimes some additional detail is asked to the fore;
— a mortise pocket with a zipper and a large pocket differ in design and are used in different ways.
The processing technology of different pockets has its own characteristics, and this variety also has them.
It is not difficult to assemble the pocket itself, but its neat, symmetrical stitching to the front wall causes certain difficulties for many craftsmen at first.

1. When assembling a pocket, use the technology that produces as few thickenings as possible along the edge of the pocket's attachment to the main part of the product. The edge of the pocket that is sewn on should be as thin as possible.
2. Mark the shape of the pocket on the front wall with washable ink, crayon or pencil.
3. Place a center mark, at least the top and bottom edges, and even better, have them on all sides. The same marks should be on the prepared pocket. This will help not to stretch or bend the workpiece. Stitching each side, you will see where your marks should converge.
4. Start stitching a couple of centimeters to the left of the center of the top edge. When you reach the center of the bottom edge, finish the stitching with a bartack and return to the top, stitching the second side of the pocket.
5. When sewing a pocket, lay a line, stepping back from the edge by 1-2 mm.

Remember the main thing! Without experience and practice, there will be no experience and skills. Dreaming and putting it off for later, collecting it in a piggy bank and not using what you have accumulated, you will not learn how to sew bags and backpacks. All this will remain in dreams and unfulfilled desires that will tear your creative soul apart with regret and guilt.

How much more you will get when you sew a finished product with a piece of your soul with your own hands.
Wear it with pride or give it to a loved one.
Even with crooked lines, a slightly oblique pocket, your backpack will bring joy, delight from the fact that you CAN, overcame doubts. Take it and sew it yourself!

Join us and sew one of the three backpacks in the joint tailoring "We sew backpacks for schoolchildren and students!".

Sincerely, Vilena Malaya.

Girls, have a nice day everyone!)))) I did the promised MK for my pocket-portfolio. My camera is working worse and worse, it's time to send it to retirement, but I think the essence will be clear even with not very high-quality photos. The fabric is all streaked - I decided to recycle a piece for tildes, which I unsuccessfully managed to tint with tea. Do not disappear good.))))
Well, now read on.

We will need a pocket template made of whatman paper or cardboard. We start by measuring the length of the three sides of the pocket, placing a centimeter on the edge. I got 37 cm.
Croim. On the lining, trace the outline of the pocket and add allowances. The top edge of the pocket does not need an allowance. We also need to draw them. In general, it must be said that in these pockets the accuracy of the allowances is very important. Therefore, I made myself a template for allowances 1 cm wide out of cardboard. Now everything should match up to a millimeter.
We also circle the pocket on the main fabric, add a hem allowance along the top (I have 3 cm). On the sides we draw the same allowances as on the lining.
Cut out the top and lining. We cut the sidewall of the pocket: it is a rectangle. Its length is equal to the perimeter of the three sides of the pocket + 2 widths of the allowance; width - 2 widths of the sidewall of the pocket + 2 widths of the allowance. my pocket perimeter is 37 cm + 2 cm allowances, the total length of the rectangle is 39 cm. I want to make the sidewall of the pocket 2.5 cm wide, which means the width of the rectangle will be 2.5 cm x 2 and plus 2 cm. allowances. Total 7 cm. The rectangle turned out to be 39x7 cm.
Fold the rectangle lengthwise facing inward and stitch short sections exactly to the width of the allowance. We twist, straighten and iron.
We apply our rectangle to the front side of the pocket, aligning the short side with the top of the pocket (not the allowance, but the pocket itself) and aligning the cuts.
And we start pinning around the perimeter. In the roundings at the corners, cut the sidewall allowances to fit better.
Wrap the hem allowance on the sidewall and bend the centimeter up, as in the photo.
Put the lining on top of everything inside out and pin in several places.
Sew through all layers, strictly observing the width of the allowances.
Cut the allowances by half a centimeter and cut into rounds. Turn through the pocket hem allowance and iron. Get this result. View from the inside.
And from the face.
Sew the pocket hem allowance, I do not capture the sides, only the middle part of the pocket.
Bend the side panel to the wrong side and stitch to the edge at a distance of 1 mm.
From the face it will be like this.
And this is from the inside out. Everything is clean and tidy. You can sew the pocket in place.
On things we circle the place of sewing the pocket according to the template. Cross strokes mark the place of the beginning and end of the line.
And we pin the sidewall, strictly combining the edge with the stitching line.
If you strictly observed the width of the allowances, then everything should match up to a millimeter. I matched.))))
Sew to the edge at a distance of 1 mm. from the edge.
In the corner we scribble more slowly so that the line does not run away.
Straighten the side panel, placing it under the middle part of the pocket, and iron.
We get such a beautiful pocket. At this stage, you can make the bartacks at the corners through all the layers, but I don’t like them and therefore I don’t do them, it’s more convenient to use the pocket. And you can fix the corners by putting holnitens.
Now we sew the valve. Reinforce the upper part with interlining or dublerin, fold it face to face with the unreinforced bottom and draw the outline of the flap using our pocket template. The same rounding on the pocket and the valve will look harmonious, and the width will thus be the same.
Sew along the contour and trim the allowances. Turn out, straighten and iron. Cut the open cut to evenness.
Now fold the flap along the stitching line and secure the edge with pins along the fold so that the flap can be unfolded for further work with it. Why is it necessary? See how the slices have shifted relative to each other? if you do not bend it like that, then due to this displacement, the valve will bulge outward. At this stage, you can sew loops if the pocket closes with buttons.
Unfold the valve, cut off the excess along the pins, leaving only 1-1.5 cm and pin, aligning the cut with the pocket entrance.
Sew and cut the seam allowance to 3 mm.
Turn the valve back to the correct position. iron and stitch at a distance of 5 mm. from the edge. Don't forget the bartacks at the beginning and end of the stitch. The pocket is ready. You can put buttons or sew on buttons.
If you turn the pocket inside out, we will see that there is not a single open cut, everything is clean and tidy.
We love the finished result!
Good luck to everyone and warm, roomy and neat pockets!)))