Cutaway shawl collar. Shawl collar pattern or shawl collar, various shapes. Stitching line and collar width
Collar shawl type or shawl.
Shawl collars can have a wide variety of forms of the turn-down part. The main feature of this type of collar is that the upper collar is cut along with the picks. Shawl collars are widely used in women's and men's clothing - these are blouses, dresses, jackets, bathrobes, tuxedos, etc.
To build a pattern for a shawl collar, we need a pattern for the base of the dress. If you don't already have a pattern for your figure, you can build it,
From the drawing of the base of the front, copy the line of the shoulder, neckline and the line of the middle of the front.
Board width.
From the line of the middle of the front to the right, set aside the width of the side. In products with a single-breasted fastener, for example, in a blouse, the width of the side is 1.5-2 cm from the mid-front line. In products with a double-breasted fastener or in bathrobes, the width of the side can reach up to 10 cm.
In our example, the width of the side is 2 cm. We postpone this value from point B4 to the right, set point C and draw a line down from it parallel to the line of the middle of the front.
Neck.
We expand the neck at the shoulder seams by 0.75-1 cm. From point B3 to the left along the shoulder seam, set aside 1 cm, put point C1. Connecting it to point B4 with a smooth curve, we get a new front neck line.
At the same distance, it is necessary to expand the line of the sprout (the neck of the back). Set aside 1 cm along the shoulder line of the back to the right of point A4 and set point C2. We draw up a new germ line by connecting points A and C2 with a smooth curve.
We return to the front.
Lapel fold line.
The starting point of the lapel fold line is located along the edge of the bead, 1.5-2 cm above the level of the first loop. The location of the first loop is determined in accordance with the style of your product.
We mark in our drawing the point of the beginning of the lapel fold line and put the point L.
To determine the direction of the lapel fold line, on the continuation of the shoulder line from point C1, set aside a distance equal to the height of the rack minus 0.5 cm. The average stand height is 3 cm.
3 - 0.5 = 2.5 cm
We postpone this distance from point C1 to the right on the continuation of the shoulder line and set point C3. We connect the point L and C3, we get the lapel fold line.
Stitching line and collar width.
From point C1 we draw upward a line parallel to the lapel fold line. On this line, from point C1 upwards, we set aside the length of the sprout, which we measure with a centimeter, placed on the edge along the pattern of the back from point A to C2 (See Fig. 4) and set point C4.
From point C1 with a radius equal to the distance C1C4, we draw an arc, on which we set aside the height of the rack to the left of point C4, in our case - 3cm and set point C5. We connect points C5 and C1 with a straight line.
collar width the back can be different, in our example it is 8cm. From point C5 at a right angle, set aside 8cm and set point C6.
We finalize the stitching line of the collar with a smooth curve C5, C1, B4, C, observing the rule: the stitching line should approach the middle line of the collar at a right angle.
All constructions of this section can be made using a compass.
Collar drop line.
The departure line can be of various shapes. In our example, the departure line has a standard classical configuration and runs in a smooth line from point C6 to point C.
The line of the inner edge of the selection.
The width of the selection may be different depending on the style, on the type of fastener, fabric, etc., but should not come closer than 1.5-2 cm to the edge of the buttonhole.
In our example, the width of the selection is 6 cm. Set aside 6 cm from the edge of the bead at the level of the first loop and set the point C7. We connect points C1 and C7 with a smooth curve. From point C7 down, the line of the pick-up continues parallel to the line of the edge of the board.
Note.
The lower collar can be either detachable or one-piece with a product shelf.
When making a collar pattern, do not forget about the difference between the upper and lower collars.
I remind you. The template of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3 mm larger than the template of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without puffs and deformations - this is the time. So that in the process of basting the stitching line does not look out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of a perekant throughout the departure - these are two. And ultimately, to ensure a good collar fit, and hence the appearance of the entire product.
Good afternoon our dear readers!
In the next modeling lesson, we will analyze one of the most interesting and extensive design topics - collars.
To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it with rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our site, select "basic dress pattern" and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly build your individual pattern, you can print it even on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.
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Let's start our "dive" into the topic of modeling collars with the most simple and understandable - stand-up collars.
All stand collars are built in the same sequence, only they have different values \u200b\u200band line configurations. Collars can be with rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end to end, more or less close to the neck. The clasp can be located both in front and behind.
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Let's now analyze the construction of the stand collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).
To build a stand collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example, 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and set aside this value in a straight line. To prevent the stand from moving away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the tighter the stand will fit to the neck). Now we set the desired height of the rack (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our collar - the stand. Remember to keep the rack height constant! A blue control notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar, you will align it with the shoulder seam.
Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand collar as on a blouse with an ornament.
The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the neck of the back minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the rack according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And draw a beautiful stand! Also, do not forget to check the height of the rack.
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You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. Such a cut of the collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts in the line of the stand.
As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the value by which one part of the shelf will go behind the other). Usually it is about 2 cm for the central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to expand the neck of the shelf and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. We connect the points obtained with lines (red).
We determine the height of the rack. In the example with a one-piece stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder cut it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back, we set aside the height of the stand on the continuation of the line, and in the area of the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition of the collar to the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we correct the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw the upper cut of the rack, rounding in front.
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Now next in line flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.
Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder tuck on the back and the chest tuck on the shelf into the armhole line - it is much more convenient to draw a flat lying collar. Now we put the back part on the shelf, leading 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder section. Determine the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! On the middle seam of the back we set aside the largest value (5-6 cm), slightly less along the shoulder seam (4.5-5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).
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Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has something with such a collar. Most often they can be found in shirts. To simplify the sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.
Let's start drawing a stand-up collar as on a blue blouse. As in the stand collars, we initially draw the length of the neckline minus 0.5 cm in a straight line. From one edge (where the middle seam of the back will be) to set the necessary bend of the bottom line of the collar, set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the value of the stand (2, 5 - 3 cm), and the so-called "back collar width" (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up, (there may be other values \u200b\u200bdepending on the height of the stand and the width of the departure you have chosen). And we try according to the pattern, we draw a collar !!! The rack can be either detachable or one-piece (Figure 6).
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Collar cut shawl. These collars are very effective and not laborious in comparison with jacket collars. The upper collar is cut together with the selection, which greatly simplifies the whole work. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we advise you to start with just such a model.
Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache.
Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as on the first model. First, let's set the bead width to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, according to the model, you need to determine the depth of the cut and put a point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - set point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the inflection line of the collar (red). Now we measure the length of the neck of the back and with the help of a compass from point a, we make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the neck of the back.
To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c tangentially set off the value of the collar departure plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the width of the departure is 6 cm, then the segment cd \u003d 6.8 cm). Point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, we finish the line on the neck - we get the lower cut of the shawl collar.
Set aside the width of the shawl departure perpendicular to the lower cut of the collar (6-7 cm).
The last action is to draw a smooth line of the upper cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.
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Now let's see what details we got in the end (Figure 8).
Pickup. We need to draw the inner line of the selection, to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), we draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and finish at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. We transfer the part onto a separate sheet of paper along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the transition area of the pick-up to the facing of the back (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer pick-up lines (blue solid and dotted lines) .
The lower collar in shawl-type collars is made detachable. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.
The shelf is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.
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And we saved the most interesting for last!
Jacket type collars. Such collars are made of four parts - the lower and upper collars and two rack parts. Sometimes the racks are made in one piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the shelf. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with great care, otherwise the appearance of the entire product will be spoiled.
Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first construction steps are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a side 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm (for the central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the inflection line of the collar, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left, set point b. We decide on the desired depth of the cutout and draw the line of the inflection of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the neck of the back - we put point c. Then, from point c, tangentially, we set aside the width of the back of the collar plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. We connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d, we restore the perpendicular to the line da and set aside on it, first the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)
And now we will need to draw the lines of the departure of the collar, ruffle and lapel. Refer to Figure 11 for an understanding of these concepts.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look like in the finished product, draw it on the right side on the details of the shelf (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this with the help of tracing paper.
Now it remains to draw a complete rack. The upper cut is drawn below the inflection line by 0.5 cm, the width is left 2-2.5 cm (blue line).
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Figure 10 shows all the resulting details:
- Pickup. It is drawn similarly to the collar of a shawl. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
- Collar (lower and upper). Copies completely with the rack.
- Shelf. We translate everything, only without a collar.
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The topic of collars is voluminous, diverse and quite complex. So, if you have any questions - feel free to ask them in
The shawl collar is very popular and it is so diverse in shape and cut that it is suitable for jackets, for women's and men's coats. This is a model of a simple shawl, a shawl with a bow and long ends for a tie.
Fitted shawl collar. Consists of two parts of the upper and lower collar. When laying out on the fabric, put the middle on the fold of the fabric along the shared thread. Make seam allowances along the outer edge by 0.5-0.7 cm, along the sewing line by 0.7-1 cm. Cut the lower collar along the entire contour, except for the sewing line less than 0.2 cm. Fold the details of the collar with the front sides, combining the middle of the sweep, sitting down at the corners of the upper part. Sew along the outer edge with a seam 0.5-0.7 cm wide along the lower collar.
Turn the curly collar of the shawl on the front side, straighten it with a roll towards the upper collar by 0.1-0.2 cm. Align the collar with the neck and sew along with the undercut or oblique facing.
Simple adjacent shawl collar, pattern. Such a sewn shawl collar consists of two parts of the upper and lower collar. When laying out on the fabric, put the pattern in the middle on the fold of the fabric along the shared thread. Seam allowance along the sewing line 0.7-1 cm along the outer edge 0.5-0.7 cm, reduce the detail of the lower collar by 0.2 cm so that the lower edge of the collar does not protrude from under the upper collar in finished form.
Such a collar can also be cut along a shared thread, this is done if there is not enough fabric. In this case, when laying out on the fabric, the middle of the pattern is placed along the oblique thread, the collar in this case will be with a seam in the middle of the upper and lower collars. To sew the collar to the neck, use a 5-6 cm wide undercut in the shape and neckline. You can use bias tape.
Shawl collar for blouse and dress. Shawl collar with loose ends that can be tied in a loose knot or bow. Recommended for blouses without fasteners. In order for the collar to lie well on the product, it is necessary to expand and deepen the neckline, as shown in the pattern drawing.
Shawl collar with long ends, different lengths. Collar for blouses and dresses, with one-piece long ends, folded in the form of a tie. Consists of two parts. To build a pattern, you need to expand the sprout by 1 cm and deepen it by 0.5 cm. Expand the neck up by 1 cm, down by 1.5 cm and deepen the cutout by 10-13 cm. At the bottom of the cutout, mark two loops for pulling the collar.
Drap Drap (French drap “cloth”) is a heavy, dense woolen fabric of complex weave made of hardware (cloth) spinning yarn. Like other types of fabrics made from natural raw materials, drape has a glorious history. Its production became possible after the invention of special looms that allow the production of material, the threads of which are arranged in several rows. To be precise, the drape has one and a half or two layers of weave. This allowed experimentation with weft and warp threads. The easiest option for this is to put exactly the same threads on the ducks and on the warp, on the outer and on the wrong layers. The next step was prompted by worldly logic: to replace the yarn of the inner layer with a cheaper or lower quality yarn. Further, part of the woolen threads was replaced with cotton or linen and another kind of drape was obtained. By changing the weave pattern, the raw materials, the combination of weft and warp colors, the finish of the front side, about a dozen classic varieties of drape were obtained. With the advent of artificial and synthetic fibers, the range of drapes has expanded and acquired new properties. Drap perfectly keeps the shape of the product, due to the thickness and layering remains warm and windproof. Properly dyed drape does not shed, does not fade in the sun and does not lose color in the rain. It practically does not wrinkle, and accidental creases can be straightened with steam. Varieties and varieties of drape If pure wool yarns of the best spinning are used to produce fabric on the outer and inner layers, a double-sided drape of the highest grade will be obtained. It was from such a drape that a small-town tailor turned his coat over in a well-known song. Indeed, a product from a double-sided drape that has worn out at the seams and bends can be carefully dissolved at the seams and sewn again, on the wrong side. The difference in appearance was insignificant and depended on the way the front side was processed. Drap is considered pure wool if the amount of additives in the yarn does not exceed 15%. By and large, these additives are wool restored by chemical methods. The highest quality drapes belong to this category. But usually in the lining layers, threads of lower quality are used, with the addition of wool recovered from waste. Therefore, the wrong side of such a drape is more loose. This does not affect the appearance of the drape product, but can significantly reduce its weight and overall density. If the wool content is in the range of 30-85%, the drape is considered to be half-woolen. As a rule, it is looser and lighter due to the content of nylon, nitron or viscose fibers. At the same time, they try to make the front layer pure wool. To give such a drape a classic look, the pile has to be pressed in and combed. Excessive friability and softness is the most common drawback of mixed drape. However, it also finds its application. In particular, some types are used in the manufacture of windproof suits and overalls. The processing of the front side of the finished drape is carried out in several stages. The fabric is felted to give extra density. Then it is piled: the pile is given the necessary qualities. Depending on the type of drape, its pile can be fluffy, velor, or pressed. After napping, the structure of the weave of the fabric becomes almost invisible. Classic varieties of drape If two or more colors of thread were used in the production of fabric, a melange drape will be obtained. Its weave pattern is extremely diverse, since it depends both on the weave and on the combination of warp and weft colors. Such varieties of drape are very expensive. They are used to make good, timeless outerwear for wealthy men and women. Classical drapes are pure wool fabrics made from wool of a certain quality in compliance with the necessary technologies for weaving and finishing. For example, the bottle drape should contain 80% merino and 20% tsigay wool (the wool of the tsigay breed sheep), the weave and the thickness of the threads are strictly regulated. The pile of the front side should be thick and dense. Drap velor is made of merino wool and does not contain extraneous additives. The pile of the front side lies freely, but should not roll or fray. There are other varieties that have long become classics. However, due to the great possibilities in the selection of raw materials, its percentage, the method of production and subsequent processing, new, no less interesting varieties of drape are constantly appearing. Pictured: Balenciaga coat
The shawl collar in products of various types and styles: in blouses, jackets, jackets, blazers and coats, has never gone out of fashion. It is still relevant today. Firstly, because a steady trend towards feminine and elegant style has appeared in the catwalk collections, and secondly, it is easy to cut and model.
The photo collages of this master class show how to build a shawl collar pattern in 3 ways. Then it will be easy for you to make a collar pattern of any shape.
Shawl collar pattern - 1 way.
We start building a pattern for a shawl collar in the same way as: draw a fastener line, mark the length, bend the tracing paper, draw a shape. The fold line can be drawn from the extreme point of the neck - photo 15.
Photo 16 shows the two most popular forms of shawl collar - tapered to the point of fastening and with expansion. Models with such a collar - a stylish white jacket on the last collage, with a contrasting black collar, and a cobalt-colored blazer on the first.
Then we unfold the tracing paper and build the upper part of the collar - photo 17.
The angle of inclination in relation to the shoulder seam is from 45 degrees to 55 - 60. The smaller the angle of inclination of the line to the shoulder seam, the more flat the collar will lie on the shoulders. The more - the more tightly it will fit to the neck, forming a stand.
The optimal angle of inclination can only be determined by fitting. It depends on the features of the figure, the slope of the shoulders, the density of the fabric.
Therefore, if I am sewing a model with a shawl collar for the first time for a client, I draw a line of inclination at an angle of approximately 50 - 55 degrees, and increase the width of the collar at the top by 2 - 2.5 cm.
At the fitting, we quickly correct everything: we determine the optimal fit to the neck, we look at whether the collar closes the seam of the connection line on the back, how the lapels behave.
If they lie looser than necessary, we “tighten” them by changing the center line of the collar at the back. If, on the contrary, the collar pulls and causes a feeling of discomfort, we release the fabric due to the allowance along the seam line connecting the two halves of the collar. Therefore, it is better to cut out with a margin of not 1 cm per seam, but 2 - 2.5 cm.
The result is the layout of the pattern in photo 18. The solid blue line is the optimal slope, the red and blue dotted lines are for experiments. I cut out the collar along these auxiliary lines plus seam allowances - photo 19. In the photo - a pattern without seam allowances, but with allowances for the width of the collar in the upper part for experimentation.
In photo 20 - already tested shawl collar pattern with a slight correction of the rounding in the shoulder seam area.
The second way to build a pattern.
You can build a shawl collar pattern in another way - photo 21.
First, a rectangle is drawn with the required length and width. Then the slope of the upper part of the collar is formed. To do this, you need to make 2 - 3 deep notches on this rectangle, starting from the shoulder line - photo 22. And smoothly change the shape of the upper part.
Modeling a shawl collar.
Photo 23 shows how to model a shawl collar pattern for blouses. It can be a classic narrow shawl, an apache collar or an imitation of an English collar.
But your imagination is not limited by anything. What you draw and cut out using the basic construction method, then sew.
The third way to cut a shawl collar.
But there is also a third way to cut and sew a shawl collar. It is used when there is not enough fabric or if it is necessary to ensure a perfect fit on the shelves - photo 24.
In this method, firstly, the details of the collar are cut out and sewn separately from the details of the shelves. But the direction of the shared thread is necessarily preserved - pay attention to the black arrow at the top of the pattern.
Secondly, the line connecting the details of the collar and the shelf is not straight, but slightly concave towards the shelf. Just like in the English collar pattern, this allows the collar to look more beautiful in the finished product.
After you cut out the jacket shelves, be sure to duplicate them with thermal fabric before trying on - this will help you more accurately determine the line of inclination of the upper part of the collar to the shoulder seam, as well as the shape of the collar lapels.
In summer jackets and blouses, it is usually enough to strengthen only the selection of the product with adhesive fabric. Sometimes - lapels and the upper part of the collar. It is easier to sew a shawl collar than an English one, and jackets, blouses and coats look just as fashionable and stylish.
