Narrow skirt with flounces. Skirt with frills and flounces: what to wear, denim bottom, photo. Cut out of black fabric

What to wear with a skirt with flounces is a topical issue for girls who have chosen this model of skirts to create an image. Such a thing gives femininity and romance and it is not at all necessary that it be a flying beach outfit. Formal skirts decorated with flounces look great in the office and at business meetings. However, this model does not suit everyone, and the selection of a top for it will require some knowledge and time. This article will help you learn more about the compatibility of flounced skirts with other elements of your wardrobe to make the choice easier.

What types of skirts with flounces are

Fashion designers have developed 3 main models of skirts with frills, which differ in the location of the decor element on the product:

The skirt with a flounce at the bottom, which is relevant this season, is just perfect, visually balancing the disproportion of wide shoulders and narrow hips, and at the same time it is strictly contraindicated for women with full hips. Read about it in a separate article. And, of course, this model looks great on slender, tall girls.

What to wear with a flounced skirt

Consider what you can wear skirts with a frill at the bottom and create interesting, functional images. The length of the skirt, its fabric and style, as well as the place where you go in it, will dictate what elements should be added to the outfit.

A crochet skirt is indispensable when creating and looks good with plain sweaters, long cardigans, blouses made of natural fabrics and boots with stable heels
- a versatile piece of clothing that, together with a simple T-shirt and sneakers, can create an image for a day walk, and with a beautiful blouse and sandals - an outfit for a romantic meeting

With a long oriental skirt, you can create one that is suitable for walking under the southern sun, which will help with floral motif shirts, large wooden jewelry and leather sandals.

With a sun-flared skirt, tight-fitting bright tops, t-shirts decorated with appliqués, wedge shoes and, of course, hats will be appropriate.

a polka-dot skirt is perfect, combined with a plain T-shirt or top

As you can see, there are no special secrets in the selection of things for this model. The main rule is that the top should be smooth, without voluminous decor, colorful if the skirt is plain and calm if the skirt is patterned. The longer the skirt, the more open you can leave your shoulders. A skirt with a flounce at the bottom and a tight-fitting T-shirt or golf will look win-win in any situation.

What accessories can be combined with a flounced skirt

The smooth top makes you want to dress up with accessories. But it is worth remembering that the main detail of the set, its accent, is located at the bottom, on the hem of the skirt, and therefore the decorations are destined to be restrained. The maximum is a string of pearls or beads, perhaps a brooch. The neck and décolleté area can be left, in principle, without jewelry, preferring medium or large-sized earrings and bracelets. The waist line can be distinguished with a thin strap. Where there are no rules, it is in the choice of bags: from miniature clutches to shuttle bags - everything is entirely up to you. As a headdress, hats look most impressive.

What to wear with a flounced skirt in winter

In order not to hide the femininity and charm of this skirt model in the cold season, you need to responsibly approach the choice of outerwear. Both very long and voluminous short jackets and coats are not welcome. It is better if they are calm, fitted short coats or short fur coats without defiant finishing. Instead of hats, neat berets or miniature knitted hats with small ruffle applications are now quite suitable. The main requirement for shoes is the absence of a high top.

A skirt with a frill at the bottom will justifiably take a place in any woman - from a student to the head of a department, because it is almost universal and will easily serve as the basis for creating many more memorable images, you just have to give free rein to your imagination.

Ladies who prefer an elegant classic style will certainly not disregard this feminine model, which reflects three trends at once - asymmetry, flared bottom line and the "godet" effect. This fashionable combination is achieved by sewing an asymmetric frill to the top of the skirt.

Building a pattern of a straight skirt with a frill

1. Draw a pattern of the front and back panels of a straight turn skirt.

2. On the front panel of the skirt pattern, along the side seam from the bottom line, measure 24 cm on the right side, and 12.5 cm on the left side and put dots. Connect these points with a straight line (Fig. 1)

3. On the back panel of the skirt pattern, measure 24 cm from the bottom along the left side seam, and 12.5 cm along the right one and put dots. Connect the dots with a straight line.

4. Mark the details of the skirt and flounces. Draw a grain direction line on each piece of the pattern. Cut off the details of the shuttlecocks.

5. Divide the details of the shuttlecocks into eight parts, drawing segments from the bottom to the top with a ruler. Cut the shuttlecock along the marked lines, without cutting to the top edge of 3 mm.

6. Place the shuttlecock pattern on a large sheet of paper. Assuming that the direction of the share corresponds to a straight line in the center of the part, push its parts to the same distance, equal to 7 cm. Fix the resulting pattern on paper and cut it out along the contour (Fig. 2).

7. Lay out the fabric in one layer, right side up. Lay out the details of the skirt pattern so that the front line runs parallel to the edges of the fabric (Fig. 3). Mark the darts with chalk. Cut out pieces with seam allowances, marking control points for matching seams.

8. Use the same parts to cut the lining if needed.

The sequence of sewing a straight skirt with a frill

1. Sweep and stitch the darts on the front and back panels of the skirt, iron them towards the middle.

2. Connect the front panel of the skirt with the front frill, and the back panel with the back frill with the front sides inward, complete the line. Overcast and iron the cuts.

3. Stitch a hidden zipper into the left side seam.

4. Complete the left side seam. Baste and stitch the right side seam, connecting the control points on the shuttlecock. Overcast and iron the cuts.

5. Repeat the same operations for the lining, leaving a gap in the lining at the location of the snake. Baste the lining and skirt along the waistline, wrong sides inward.

6. Treat the top section of the skirt with a stitched belt.

7. Decorate the line of the bottom of the skirt with an overcasting or zigzag stitch. Tuck the fabric 1 cm along the bottom and press lightly to remove creases. Run a straight joining stitch.

8. Double hem the lining, tucking the fabric 1cm twice. Run stitch and iron.

pokroyka.ru

Pencil skirt with flounces. Instructions for printing patterns and sewing sequence

Model complexity level - simple

Technical drawing of the model:

When ordering a pattern, you will receive a pdf file containing 1 pattern sheet, which can be printed on several A4 sheets, after gluing which you will receive one large sheet with pattern outlines:

* To print the pattern in real size, when printing in Adobe Reader, select the "Poster" item in the "Adjusting the size and page processing" section. Then the image will be automatically divided into the required number of fragments of A4 format. If your version of Adobe Reader does not have the "Poster" function, you need to download the latest version of this program from the link https://get.adobe.com/en/reader/ (this is a licensed free program). If you still have questions - visit our FAQ section! https://patterneasy.com/faq

The following designations are adopted on the pattern:

Cut details:

From base material:

1. Back panel - 2 children.
2. Belt lining. Front (with a fold) - 1 child.
3. Belt lining. Back - 2 children.
4. Shuttlecock. Front (with a fold) - 1 child.
5. Shuttlecock. Back (with a fold) - 1 child

The second layer of guipure: (optional)

1. Front panel (with a fold) - 1 child.
2. Back panel - 2 children.

1. Shuttlecock. Front (with a fold) * - 1 child.
2. Shuttlecock. Back (with a fold) * - 1 child

*If the fabric allows, you can cut out the guipure shuttlecock in one whole piece to make it with one back seam. To do this, it is necessary to combine the halves of part 6 with part 5 when cutting, as shown in the figure:

It is necessary to duplicate parts 3 and 4 with adhesive cushioning material.

You will also need a hidden zipper about 12 cm long.

When cutting, it is necessary to add seam allowances of 1 cm to the details, and 1.2 cm for the hem of the shuttlecock. Add 0.5-0.7 cm to the outer cut of the shuttlecock from guipure.

Layout example:

The average consumption of fabric is 95 cm, guipure is 90 cm with a width of 140 cm.

The layout of parts on guipure is similar to the layout of parts from the main fabric, not including facings.

Sewing sequence:

1. Duplicate parts 3 and 4 with adhesive cushioning material, without going over the seam allowances.

1. Combine the details of the front and back panels of the skirt from the main material with the corresponding details from the guipure and sew a “needle forward” seam along the seam allowances.
2. On the details of the back panel of the skirt, mark with chalk the position of the tucks. Sweep the sides of the tucks and connect them on a sewing machine, stitching each tuck in one go from both layers of material - the base and guipure. Press the darts in the direction of the center line of the back panel. Thus, the layers of the back panel turned out to be interconnected not only by the basting made in paragraph 2, but also by the tuck seam.
3. Sweep the front panel with parts of the back panel of the skirt along the side seams, combining the cuts according to the control marks. Stitch, overcast seam allowances and iron towards the back panel.
4. Overcast the seam allowances along the center line of each of the back panels of the skirt, connecting the layers of the main material and guipure with an overcast line.
5. Sweep the parts of the back panel up to the control mark indicating the end of attaching the zipper. Stitch, iron the seam allowances.
6. On the front side of the seam allowance on the unstitched section of the center line of the back panel, a zipper is placed face down, so that the upper edge of the zipper tape falls into the seam of the processing of the upper section of the skirt. Having unbent the links, they sew the zipper along the entire length, laying the line as close as possible to the links.
7. Zip up the zipper and pin to the loose seam allowance with a pin near the top of the skirt. Unzip the zipper and sew the other side to the skirt, laying the line as close to the links as possible, not reaching 1.5 cm to the sign that determines the length of the fastener on the skirt. Pull the zipper lock through the hole and close it. The unstitched area can be secured with hand stitches. You can sew the sides of the zipper tape onto the seam allowances of the skirt at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge.
8. Connect the front part of the belt facing to the back parts of the belt facing along short sections. Cut seam allowances to 0.5-0.7 cm and iron.
9. Overcast the bottom edge of the facing.
10. Combine the top cut of the skirt and the top cut of the facing, folding them with the front sides inward, sweep. Overstitch the top edge of the skirt with a seam, while also connecting the side seams of the seam with the seam allowances of the skirt fastener so that the zipper links are between the seam and the main parts of the skirt. Trim the corners on the facing, cut the seam allowance of the turning to 0.5-0.7 cm.
11. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten the seam of the facing and baste with the formation of an edging from the skirt. Stitch the seam allowances on the facing, iron.
12. Connect the front and back parts of the shuttlecock from the main fabric along short sections into a ring.
13. Treat the outer cut of the shuttlecock with a narrow hem seam with a closed cut.
14. Connect the front and back parts of the guipure shuttlecock along two short sections, or only one section if it was cut out in one piece.
15. Process the outer cut of the guipure shuttlecock on an overlock with a rolled seam, or, if the material is not shedding, leave it unprocessed.
16. Fold the shuttlecock from the main fabric with the guipure shuttlecock and sweep along the inner cut.
17. Fold the resulting double frill with the skirt right sides inward and tack to the bottom cut of the skirt. Stitch, overcast the cut and iron in the direction of the shuttlecock.

patterneasy.com

Sewing Club Season - a site where you can learn everything about sewing

The skirt from MONSE is made with a high waistline and two asymmetrical flounces.

To model this skirt, you will need a base pattern. In the photo below, the skirt is shown front and back and you can see all the model lines.

Modeling the front of the skirt We overestimate the waist line by 6 cm. Model lines are shown in red. We transfer one tuck (on the right) closer to the center of the front. Through the top of the second tuck we draw an inclined straight line and bend it up 1 cm in the center. All required dimensions are shown on the drawing.

From the inclined line to the right, we draw a horizontal line of 22 cm and connect it with a smooth arc to the center of the front. On the left on the pattern, draw an arc that starts 16 cm below the hip line, and at the bottom does not reach the center of the front by 5 cm.

We cut the pattern along the model lines. The part cut off from the left side is set aside for further modeling of the shuttlecock, it will be added to the back of the shuttlecock.

We close the left tail tuck. We close the right tuck and draw a smooth line of the upper undercut of the skirt. After that, the tuck is opened again. The details highlighted in dark are copied onto a separate sheet - these are two separate details.

We draw a folding part of the belt, which is highlighted in red in the drawing. To do this, draw a horizontal line from the top left point of the skirt. From it we lower the perpendicular to the right tuck. We do not cut this part from the pattern!

All details of the skirt front pattern are shown in the drawing below. We write “front side” on each of them and, when cutting, we lay it out on the front side of the fabric so that the inscriptions are visible.

Modeling the back of the skirt

We make a radial breeding of the lower part by ¾ of the circle.

The article was prepared on the basis of materials provided by OlgaLosss specifically for the Season website. Any copying and quoting of article materials is possible only with the source and an active link to the Season website.

More than 6000 types of fabrics in the Season online store. The prices will pleasantly surprise you - they are lower than in a real store. By clicking on the preview with a sample, you will be taken to the desired section.

www.season.ru

DIY ruffled skirt

Ruffled skirts have been around for a very long time. They give the figure a special femininity, but, unfortunately, are not suitable for everyone. On a girl or a slender young woman, this style will look perfect, but it is better for ladies with curvaceous forms to refrain from it. A do-it-yourself frilled skirt is sewn in several ways, and we will discuss some of them now.

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If the daughter grew up

Have you decided to learn how to sew, but still do not know what to do? No problem. You can rummage through your daughter's wardrobe and find last year's skirt to experiment on it, and at the same time master some tricks. It will turn out - excellent, it will not work out - it does not matter either, the skirt is already short anyway. And nothing prevents you from updating your own skirt in the same way, which fits in size, but is already pretty tired.

The easiest option is to make frills. But first you need to choose a fabric - it is unlikely that in your bins there will be exactly the same as the skirt itself is sewn from.

Important! By the way, you can decorate any product with frills - a straight strict skirt, sun, half sun, bell and even denim. True, in the latter case, the choice of fabric should be approached especially carefully - you can use denim, but nothing prevents you from taking bright satin, tartan and even wide, dense lace.

How much fabric do you need?

Before you sew a skirt with frills, or, more precisely, sew frills to a skirt, you need to decide how much material you need:

1. Measure the bottom line.
2. Multiply the result by 1.5-2.

If the frills are made of lace, nothing else is needed - this material is sold by the meter. What if you prefer fabric? Then, as they say, options are possible. And the first thing to do is to decide whether you are going to cut frills only along the edge or prefer to make a few seams, but use up little fabric. In the second case, you need to do some more calculations:

• Estimate the width of the frill.
• See how many times this width fits along the length or width of the cut, depending on how you cut.

Important! Frills can be cut both along the shared thread and along the transverse thread.

• Based on the result, calculate how much fabric you need - just do not forget about the allowances, because if you sew the stripes, you will have to take a little more material.

Preparing a skirt

Before sewing on a frill, the skirt must be put in order. It should be clean and more or less ironed - not perfect, but without visible folds and creases.

Important! The hem requires special attention - it must be straightened, and in many cases this is possible. If not (for example, the fold is frayed or has changed color), you will have to update the skirt in a slightly different way.

Making a frill

The frill is a stripe. If it is possible to cut it along the edge, great, then you won’t need to process it. But in many cases this is too wasteful. Therefore, we do the following:

1. We draw the cut into strips of the width that you have determined.
2. Let's cut it.
3. We sew the pieces in one strip - just do not forget that the seams should be on the wrong side.
4. We tuck the edge, which will be from below, twice - by 0.5 cm and by 1 cm.
5. We are sewing.
6. We sew the upper edge of the frill with a basting seam, small stitches, or we sew it on a typewriter, but in this case you need to set the maximum stitch length.
7. We tighten the basting - the assemblies should be distributed evenly.
8. We fasten our masterpiece to the bottom of the skirt so that the seam is on the wrong side.
9. Sew on the frill.
10. Press the seam allowance to the side of the skirt.

If you can't undo the lining

If the edge of the hem is very different from the rest of the skirt, you will have to get out of the situation in the following way:

1. Prepare the frill - hem and lay a basting stitch along the top.
2. Sew the frill on the front side, just above the edge of the hem.
3. Sew a ribbon on top.

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We sew a skirt with a frill

Are you comfortable with the frill? Now you can sew a new skirt. Moreover, the style can be any. The only thing to keep in mind is that when building a pattern, you need to reduce the length of the product by the width of the frill. The rest of the work is no different from the one already described. But after all, you can make more than one frill, but several, and arrange them in different ways:

• 2-3 frills of different lengths along the bottom of the hem;
• several frills on top of each other;
• one frill on the bottom, the other - obliquely.

Option 1. Flared skirt with three frills along the hem

We sew a skirt according to any pattern you like - the easiest way is to take those that do not require complex constructions and are cut directly on the fabric, that is, the sun, half-sun or bell. The difference between these styles is only in width - the sun is a ring, the half-sun is a half-ring with a notch shifted towards the center, and the bell is a third of the ring, and is cut almost the same as the half-sun.

Let's choose the middle option, that is, the half-sun:

1. Lay the fabric face down on the floor.
2. Find the middle of the edge, mark it somehow.
3. From the mark, draw a line at a 90° angle to the edge.
4. On this line, set aside the half-girth of your waist, divided by 6.28 (you can round up to 6.5).
5. Using this new mark as the center, draw a circle with the radius you just calculated.
6. And from the starting point, draw a circle equal to the length of the product, subtracting from it the width of the widest frill - in fact, that's all, there is a workpiece.

We cut frills

They are cut in the same way as when lengthening the old skirt. Only there should be two or three of them, and the difference in width is 5-8 cm, so that the lower frills are visible from under the upper ones. Prepare the strips in the same way as in the previous case, that is, sew them into long strips, hem or overcast the bottom, make a basting along the stitching lines. The following is the procedure to follow:

1. Lay out the largest ruffle right side up.
2. Put on it the second in width, aligning the upper sections.
3. Spread the third strip on top - all the top edges should exactly match in length.
4. Baste all three strips together.
5. Baste them to the hem so that the seam is inside out.
6. Sew on.
7. Overcast the allowances all together and iron to the side of the frills.
8. Sew the open edges carefully from the wrong side - on a typewriter or manually over the edge.

Important! After that, it remains only to sew in a zipper (it is best not to make a special cut for it, but to sew it into the one that already exists, using the edges). As a belt, you can use a wide elastic band.

Option 2. Ruffles one above the other

This option is suitable for a straight skirt, sewn according to the main pattern. Ruffles are made the same width:

1. We sew a skirt - the order is traditional, that is, first the darts, then the side seams, then the belt.
2. We outline the lines for attaching frills, which can either overlap one another, or be located at a certain distance.
3. We prepare frills in the same way as in all previous cases.
4. We take them, starting from the bottom.
5. We sew, also starting from the bottom.
6. We sew a braid on top.

Important! In principle, you can do without braid if you carefully process the top of each strip, and the fabric itself is quite thin.

Option 3. Slant frill

This option also looks better on a straight skirt. Fundamentally, it is no different from the rest, but it is necessary to very accurately calculate the oblique frill, which can go, say, to the left of the most convex point of the thigh down to the hem on the right, and then again to the thigh.

Important! In this way, you can decorate not only the hem, but also the neckline of the dress and the sleeves.

To begin with, let's figure out what a shuttlecock is - this is a ring cut on one side. Several such rings are cut, which are sewn together. It turns out a very magnificent frill.

Important! As in the case of ordinary ones, when cutting, the length of the product must be reduced by the width of the shuttlecock.

Straight skirt with flounces

How to sew a skirt with frills on an elastic band? The easiest way to do this is on the main pattern. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter if the top is styled with a traditional stripe with a button or a modern wide ribbing. True, in the second case it will be better if the fabric stretches at least a little.

The straight skirt pattern is the base pattern. It is for her that we cut the skirt, shorter than it would be without a frill. And we sew in a completely traditional way, stitching all the tucks, side and back seams (if any). And even the belt can be sewn right away - just do not forget that the elastic band should be slightly shorter than the girth of your waist, otherwise the skirt will not hold well. So what is next? And then the fun begins. It is necessary to determine the dimensions of the shuttlecock itself:

1. We measure the length of the hem.
2. We estimate how many rings we need - for example, 10.
3. We divide the length of the hem by 10, if we get an integer, this will be the diameter of the inner circle of our ring.

We cut rings

You can, of course, cut out all the rings directly from the fabric, but it is best to make a template from cardboard - the risk of error is reduced to a minimum:

1. Divide the diameter of the ring in half so that you can draw a circle, and it is drawn along the radius.
2. We draw a circle.
3. To the already known radius we add the length of the shuttlecock plus the allowance.
4. We draw a second circle from the same center.
5. We outline the cut line - it should go through the center.
6. Cut out the template and make a cut.

We sew a shuttlecock

The time has come to cut the elements of the shuttlecock. It's not difficult - just circle the cardboard ring and the cut line. You can even fold the fabric several times and cut out all the elements at once. What's next? And here's what:

1. Take 2 rings.
2. Sweep them with each other along the cut line so as not to confuse the front and wrong sides.
3. In the same way, baste the third element and all the others.
4. Trim the seams.
5. Overlock the bottom edge.
6. Baste what happened to the hem of the skirt - the seam should be from the inside out.
7. Look what happened - if everything is beautiful, you can safely sew on a shuttlecock.
8. Overcast the allowances together, iron on the side of the shuttlecock.

Important! In the same way, you can trim the skirt of any other style. True, a lot of fabric will go into the sun. Spanish beauties sew their skirts according to the pattern of the bell - and it's beautiful, and the fabric doesn't take much.

In a word, there is nothing prohibitively complicated in sewing a skirt with frills or a skirt with a frill. But such decorations look better if they are made of a single-colored fabric or from the same as the rest of the skirt. But it is better to avoid large patterns, because the elements of the pattern will have to be adjusted, and this will further increase the amount of fabric.

serviceyard.net

Greetings to all lovers of sewing and original clothing models! I want to offer for your consideration one of the current modern styles of skirts. Modeling a pencil skirt with a flounce takes place on the basis of the main pattern of a straight skirt and is performed in several stages. Ruffles have been in trend for more than a season, as they create a feminine and flying look for their owner.

They are present on all types of women's clothing from summer dresses and sundresses to autumn coats and down jackets. The pencil skirt, which is built on the basis of a straight skirt, is one of the most popular models. She will always make the silhouette slimmer and sleeker. That is why it is included in the list of basic women's wardrobe items and is welcomed by all lovers of the classics.

But, there are a lot of options for a pencil skirt and you should definitely use it. Decorative details will help turn it from a strict model into a very attractive and non-trivial one.

In order to model the proposed skirt, you must have a skirt pattern - a pencil, built according to the correctly taken measurements. As a result, you will get half the back and half the front panels.

The back panel can be left unchanged with darts, or relief lines can be made similar to those that will be used when modeling the front panel. The front panel must be assembled entirely for further work in this way.

Then, from the lower corners of the darts, lower the lines to the bottom of the skirt. It is better to make them slightly inclined, for even more visual narrowing of the silhouette.

After that, you should outline the line to which the shuttlecock will be sewn. Point 2 is on the hip line, and point 3 is on the side line at a height from the bottom of the skirt so that the distance between points 3 and 4 will be equal to the width of the frill. Therefore, the position of point 3 will depend on the length of your skirt and on the desired width of the frill.

When separating all parts of the front panel pattern from each other, you should get the following details.

At the last stage, it is necessary to build a pattern of the shuttlecock itself. It is built in the form of a circle. R1 = ((distance between points 1 and 2) + (distance between points 2 and 3) + 8 cm) : 6.18

Where did 8 cm come from? If you look closely at the photo of the skirt, you will notice that there are two small folds in the distance between points 2 and 3. Their depth must be added to the length of the frill stitching line. I gave 4 cm for each of them, and in total it turned out 8 cm. If you do not want these folds on your skirt, then you can not add 8 cm in this formula.

R2 = R1 + (distance between points 3 and 4, equal to the width of the shuttlecock)

In order to complete the process of constructing a shuttlecock pattern, it must be cut along any vertical or horizontal line and opened. The shuttle can consist of two identical parts or one. It depends on how the bottom cut is processed. This completes the modeling of a pencil skirt with a frill.

As a result of the whole construction, you should get the following set of parts for a flounced skirt:

1. Back panel (2 parts)
2. Front panel (6 parts)
3. Shuttlecock (1 or 2 parts)

I hope that you liked this model and you will be able to diversify your wardrobe with it. It can be made in both winter and summer versions. For convenience, it is better to use materials with a low content of elastic fibers.

Share useful information with your friends and subscribe to new articles to learn more interesting things about building and modeling women's clothing!

Sincerely, Arina Shirokova.

fusion-of-styles.com

Luxurious skirt with one-piece frill...

The skirt from MONSE is made with a high waistline and two asymmetrical flounces. To model this skirt, you will need a base pattern. In the photo below, the skirt is shown front and back and you can see all the model lines. Sew a cool skirt for spring!

Modeling the front of the skirt

We overestimate the waist line by 6 cm. Model lines are shown in red. We transfer one tuck (on the right) closer to the center of the front. Through the top of the second tuck we draw an inclined straight line and bend it up 1 cm in the center. All the necessary dimensions are indicated on the drawing. From the inclined line to the right, we draw a horizontal line of 22 cm and connect it with a smooth arc to the center of the front. On the left on the pattern, draw an arc that starts 16 cm below the hip line, and at the bottom does not reach the center of the front by 5 cm. Cut the pattern along the model lines. We put the part cut off from the left side to the side for further modeling of the shuttlecock, it will be added to the back of the shuttlecock. Close the left traveling tuck. We close the right tuck and draw a smooth line of the upper undercut of the skirt. After that, the tuck is opened again. We copy the parts highlighted in dark color onto a separate sheet - these are two separate parts. We draw a folding part of the belt, which is highlighted in red in the drawing. To do this, draw a horizontal line from the top left point of the skirt. From it we lower the perpendicular to the right tuck. This detail is not cut off from the pattern! All details of the pattern for the front of the skirt are shown in the drawing below. We write “front side” on each of them and, when cutting, we lay it out on the front side of the fabric so that the inscriptions are visible.

Modeling the back of the skirt

Let's move on to modeling the back of the skirt. We overestimate the waistline by 6 cm. We draw an inclined line on the drawing in accordance with the dimensions in the drawing below. Model lines are shown in red.

We cut the pattern along the model lines. At the bottom left, draw an undercut with a smooth line and cut the pattern along it, the cut off part will not be needed. We attach to the pattern of the back the part cut off from the pattern of the front.

At this stage, the back pattern looks like in the drawing below. On the lower part we apply parallel lines with an interval of 2-3 cm.

We make a radial breeding of the lower part by ¾ of the circle.

Skirt pattern is ready. We sign all the details of the back “front side” and, when cutting, lay them out on the front side of the fabric so that the inscriptions are visible.

If you do not have enough experience in modeling, it is advisable to sew a sampler before cutting skirts from the main fabric. Any inexpensive fabric will do. Having tried on a skirt, it is possible to correct everything in the pattern that does not suit you in the sampler.

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Do-it-yourself skirt with a tournure effect

A skirt from the Lena Hoshek collection evokes a storm of emotions. The bustle effect attracts the eye, an inquisitive eye tries to unravel the secret, and this skirt is sewn quite simply and within the power, even for beginners. Before you start sewing, you need to be aware of a number of little things so that they do not then turn into one big disappointment.

At the heart of the cut of the skirt is the sun. Even with a bow tied at the back and the back panel of the skirt gathered in a bustle, it rides up from gusts of wind, so think about the lining. It is enough to make the lining in the form of a trapezoid from the main fabric or a fabric that matches in color.

Important! The reference line of the entire skirt is the bottom line of the coquette. The bow in this case performs only the function of a decor, and therefore the displacement of the skirt down is no longer possible, but up is completely.

If you decide to deviate from the style and make the top of the skirt at the waistline, most likely, you will need to adjust the pattern. This will be discussed later - in the sections "Skirt Design" and "Pattern Adjustment". For corpulent, short women, this style is hardly suitable; although, if you wish, you can try to sew this skirt from an inexpensive fabric for home use.

The fabric should be selected with the content of natural fibers (cotton, thinned linen) or completely cotton. The wrong side and the front side should not differ greatly in color intensity and pattern. Smooth, sliding fabrics will not work - the skirt will rise up from the hips, trying to take a position at the narrowest point of the figure - at the waist. Lightweight fabrics like chiffon will cause the effect of a bustle hovering behind - no one has yet canceled the wind on the street, so think about whether you need such an effect.

You will need

Double-sided fabric - 2.3 m with a width of 1.5 m, but fabric consumption can be significantly reduced if cut a little "not according to the rules", this will not affect the skirt itself. The main thing is to decant the fabric well before cutting, you can simply wash it in warm water. Lining fabric - 40-50 cm. If the lining is planned from the main fabric, simply add the length to the footage. Bias trim for finishing the bottom of the frill 6–7 m. Hidden zipper, fabric-covered button and a little glue to duplicate the coquette of the shelf and the place where the zipper is sewn in. And also a pattern of the base of the skirt to your size.

Skirt design

The top of the skirt is a detachable yoke, made according to the pattern of the base of a straight skirt. The skirt is a flared sun with side seams and a seam in the center of the back, into which a zipper is sewn. A frill completes the skirt, with an assembly factor of K = 1.7-2 in relation to the length of the bottom of the sun skirt.

In the side seams, at a distance of a few centimeters upwards from the frill, two loops are sewn (they are shown by arrows in the photo). A button is sewn under the yoke of the skirt near the zipper, on which both of these loops are put on, thereby the back of the skirt is assembled into a kind of "tournament". Back yoke belt ties into a bow.

The skirt can be worn in two versions - with loops fastened to the button, just then it will be with a “bustle” at the back. Or, without fastening the loops with a button, then it will be a regular sun skirt with a frill at the bottom, with a bow tied at the back.

Pattern

If we want a skirt with the proportions of the original, we follow simple formulas. With DU (skirt length) \u003d X, the width of the yoke will be X / 6; skirt length from the bottom line of the yoke to the frill Х/2; frill widthX/3. These are the formulas we use in the example below.

Consider the construction of a pattern on a specific example for a figure with a height of 160 cm, with a waist circumference (OT) - 71 cm and with a total skirt length from LT - 53 cm. We calculate the width of the yoke - DU / 6 = 53/6 = 9 cm. On the base pattern skirts, stepping down from the waist line (LT) 9 cm, draw a coquette line. We cut the pattern along it and close the darts. The yoke pattern is ready. For the original skirt, we only need a shelf yoke. The back yoke is cut as a straight strip, 115-120 cm long, and 9 cm wide for our example (shelf yoke width). When sewing this strip with the side seam of the shelf coquette, we slightly round it (cut it) in the shape of the side line of the shelf coquette. This option is suitable for those who have a slender figure without a sharp drop in waist - hips, without a tummy and a strong bend in the back.

If the figure is very “appetizing”, there is a pronounced waist and hips, as well as a small tummy, it would be more logical to place the skirt at the waist. Therefore, the back coquette will be different. To the pattern of the yoke of the back we draw a bow-tie, you can slightly expand it towards the end, the length of the bow in our case is 100 cm.

For those who doubt their figure, you can leave the back yoke modeled on the base as it is, and sew bow ties into the side seams. But in this case, there will be no “triangle” of a naked body in the center of the back. In any case, it is up to you to decide which version of the back yoke is preferable for you.

DU in our example is 53 cm from the LT. We measure the circumference of the body, retreating 9 cm from the LT, write down the measurement - 88 cm. Calculate r=L/2π, where r is the radius of the small circle of the sun skirt, L is the circumference (88 cm), π=3.14. In our example, r= 88/2/3.14=14 cm. Calculate the width of the frill: X/3= 53/3= 17.5 cm. Calculate the length of the sun skirt: to do this, subtract the width of the frill and yoke from the DU measure, and write down the resulting value. In our example, this is 53-17.5-9 = 26.5 cm. To this value we add the radius of the small circle r = 14 cm; we get the radius of the large circle R \u003d 26.5 + 14 \u003d 40.5 cm. With the same center as the small circle, we draw a large radius R - this is the bottom of the skirt to which we will sew the frill.

The length of the bottom of the skirt (the length of the large circle) in our example is 254 cm. This can be calculated using the circumference formula (L = 2πR). From the remaining amount of fabric, cut out the ruffles. These are strips of fabric 18.5 cm wide (we take into account a seam allowance of 1 cm), and a length equal to the width of the fabric. There can be 4 or 5 such stripes - it depends on the length of the large circle and the width of the fabric. In our case, the total length of the frill is 508 cm, which is slightly less than 4 stripes in the entire width of the fabric. The coefficient of gathering the frill in our example is K = 508/254 = 2. The layout of all the details of the skirt is shown in the photo. All coquettes are made double, just like the bow. You can also make a more economical layout if the properties of the fabric allow you to decompose the parts not along the shared, but along the transverse thread, and you decide to sew the skirt according to the original pattern: back yoke + bow ties = straight stripe.

Do not forget to cut out two strips from the lunges of the fabric along the oblique for the loops in the side seams. Although, they can be replaced with a hat elastic in the color of the fabric. The location of the loops is in each case individually for a specific height and figure.

Pattern Adjustment

In the original skirt, the back yoke is a straight strip of fabric that flows into the bow ties. The reference line (the line on which the entire load falls) is the bottom line of the yoke, and the top line, due to the broken configuration when tying the bow on the back, does not carry the load. The reference line tends to take the most "advantageous" position and tends upward along the smooth slope on the female figure (purple arrow). In front, on the upper line of the coquette of the shelf, because of this, slack is sometimes formed, and the seam of the back becomes shorter. Therefore, a solution was found - to lengthen the back seam by half the width of the yoke.

This adjustment is shown in the photo with red lines. On the skirt pattern, you need to compensate for the length of the back seam: increase its length by ½ of the width of the yoke. In our example, this will be 9/2 = 4.5 cm.

To remove the slack of the front yoke along the LT, you can sew a dolevik into the seam of the upper edge of the yoke with an interference fit or sew a hat elastic into the side seams, which, stretched, slightly stabilizes the upper seam of the front yoke. Goldfish, camille. It was these ladies who were the pioneers - they unraveled the cut, its smallest nuances, and each sewed their own, unique skirt, which they called the "bomb". Join them in the forum thread "Bomb Skirt" with bustle effect from the Lena Hoshek collection.

The technology of assembling a skirt with a bustle

This article gives the technology for sewing a skirt with a bustle according to the first option - when the yoke of the shelf is modeled from the base, and the belt-bow is tailored in one straight piece. Six options for laying out patterns on fabric can be downloaded as one file in a zip archive.

Cut details and applied materials that we need, from left to right: frill - 3 parts, bow - 2 parts with a fold, zipper, button and fabric flap for fitting it, shelf yoke - 2 parts, oblique trim - 7 meters, front panel of the skirt (shelf) - 1 piece with a fold, the back panel of the skirt (back) - 2 pieces, a strip of fabric for roll loops, cut along the oblique. Glue duplicate both parts of the front yoke and sections of the bow, not reaching 3 cm to the place where the zipper is sewn into the seam of the back of the back panel of the skirt.

We sew a strip for the steering loop, turn it inside out.

We outline the size of the steering loop on the button.

We sew the seams of the three parts of the frill together, process with an overlock.

We cut the yoke along the upper cut and attach it to the side cuts of the bow.

We iron out the seams.

We iron the seam allowance of the inner coquette of the shelf on the wrong side.

We sew rolled loops into the side seams, the place of sewing can be strengthened with glue. Sew the side and back seam of the skirt. We iron out the seams.

Sew the zipper into the back seam.

We fold the front side of the yoke with the front side of the skirt, combine the side sections, cut them off with pins, perpendicular to the future seam. We sew the parts together. Most likely, the front panel of the skirt will have to be stretched a little, and the back - to fit.

We sew the bow and turn the skirt inside out through the open hole.

It was there that we ironed the seam allowance - on the yoke of the shelf.

We iron out the details.

And manually sew up the unsewn section on the wrong side of the coquette.

We let the skirt hang with weights along the hem for a couple of days, and then we even out the length. You can moisten the skirt with a spray bottle for better alignment. Sew the piping to the lower long side of the frill.

We pin a frill to the aligned hem of the skirt. To do this, it must be divided into 4 equal parts, and pinned with pins each marked division line to the middle, two side cuts and to the middle of the shelf. Then we divide each fourth part of the frill in half, and again, having found the middle on the skirt between the pinned sections of the frill, we pin the middle of the section. And so, until the intervals between the stuck pins are 5-7 cm. We stick the pins perpendicular to the future seam. Why are we doing this? It is almost impossible to assemble five meters of frill into two parallel lines. Acting with a special foot for assemblies, we may not meet the length. It will collect either more or less than the required length. And the method with pins and dividing the sections all the time in half will make it possible to evenly distribute the entire frill along the entire hem of the skirt. The whole process is shown in the three photos below.

After the entire frill is pinned to the hem of the skirt, sew it on. Scribble along the side of the frill. And with tweezers we trim the areas between the pins. The process is shown in the three photos below.

Finished skirts. Many thanks to all the artisans for the photo!

A frilly skirt is a symbol of femininity and a timeless detail; you can wear it at any time of the year and for almost any occasion. Nothing decorates a girl like a well-chosen skirt that reveals the beauty of women's legs. The main task is to choose the top and shoes. By learning this skill, you will look 100%.

The model is suitable for young girls and ladies of middle age. Remember that the model harmoniously looks on women of a thin and "average" figure. If you are a size 50 or more, the ruffles will add extra volume to your figure. In addition, it adds volume to the hips. Suitable for girls with an inverted triangle body type - frills will balance the disproportionate silhouette, balancing broad shoulders and narrow hips.

Stylists do not recommend choosing such an outfit for women with a pear shape. They have naturally wide hips, you should not increase it even more due to flounces. With high growth, the exception is a floor-length skirt with one frill at the hem.

Such skirts with frills are sewn from different materials: from light chiffon to tight costume ones. Combinations are acceptable, for example - the base is made of satin, the frills are made of airy, light fabrics. You can fantasize with the model endlessly, making frills from different fabrics, high or low fit, supplement with a belt or a wide elastic band.

What to wear with a frilly skirt?

Choose your top carefully. Ruffles make the bottom heavier, which means that blouses should be as light as possible. Ideally - blouses without flounces, ruffles, too puffy sleeves, bright patterns. Putting on a catchy T-shirt, “shatter” the image and you will look like at a masquerade.

For everyday wear, wear turtlenecks, T-shirts, T-shirts, pullovers. A ruffled denim skirt looks great with a shirt. Create a cheeky, cowboy style by tying the shirt at the waist and wearing boots. The bow will be completed with a messenger bag. For a summer light skirt, a tight-fitting plain top with straps and open sandals will suit.

Skirt with a frill at the bottom

A skirt with frills at the bottom is easy to fit into a working (office) style. To do this, add a fitted blouse in a simple style. The color of the top is white or a few tones lighter than the bottom. Throw on a short jacket over it, without conspicuous draperies, take a roomy bag, put on comfortable shoes (boats, ballet flats, low-speed sandals) - and you are ready to conquer the mountains of unfinished work!

With a frill at the bottom, just what you need for summer days. Models in which denim harmoniously coexists with chiffon or thin cotton fabric look original.

Evening look

A skirt with frills is a frequent guest of all kinds of evening events. As a rule, it is part of the dress. But if you have a chic model in your wardrobe, why not wear it to a party? When choosing a top, look at bandeau tops or blouses with a deep neckline - this will make men pay attention to you and dream up. A good choice is an asymmetrical one-shoulder T-shirt. Accessories should not be too much. Add a small pendant or a string of pearls to a shirt with a cutout. Stiletto heels or comfortable heels are what you need.

About accessories and shoes

A frilly skirt requires simplicity in footwear, it should not attract much attention. Suitable classic sandals, shoes, neat shoes without a heel. A rectangular leather or textile bag will complete the look.

Do not overdo it with accessories and jewelry. Chains, thin necklaces, small earrings are what you need. Set aside massive beads and voluminous earrings for another occasion. In summer, complete the look with bracelets matched to match the skirt or other accessories. Hats, scarves, narrow straps and belts look beautiful in such an ensemble.

What the designers say

Designers not only talk about this topic, but also create unique skirts. Brands Lanvin and Rebecca Taylor released a line of skirts with flounces and slightly asymmetrical, raw bottoms. As for the fabric, fashion designers preferred leather, textiles (knitted fabric). Stylists recommend wearing a "frilled bottom" with a "simple" top: jumpers, tops, T-shirts.

Variety of models

Today it can be found in different variations: long and short, with frills in one row or located along the entire length, straight or asymmetrical flounces. For a business style, choose a model with small, neat frills.

The color depends on the taste, the season and the purpose of the outfit. Business skirts are usually sewn from black, dark green, gray, olive, coffee and beige colors. Summer "walking" models are created in bright and completely different shades, complemented by prints, patterns, drawings.
A frilled skirt will help create an elegant and romantic look. The right model will emphasize the beauty and femininity of every girl.

What to wear with a flounced skirt?

A flounced skirt is perfect for creating a romantic and casual look. Interesting combinations can be found in the collections of Carven, Ermanno Scervino, Rag & Bone, Dries Van Noten, Gucci. However, modern couturiers claim that a frill on a skirt can also be entered into a business look.

To make the image harmonious and overloaded, remember the main rule: volumetric details can be present only on one product. A flounced skirt makes the lower body heavier, so choose a simple top.

A skirt with frills on the bottom looks harmonious with a blouse or shirt, suitable for both shopping and office.

A light plain blouse or shirt, a tight T-shirt or top will suit such a bottom. You can complement the image with a narrow belt that will emphasize the waistline. In any case, the correct combination is selected taking into account the length and material from which the bottom is made. Let's discuss several features of creating an image based on a skirt with flounces.

Knitted models are recommended to be combined with plain knitted items (pullovers or sweaters) or tight blouses. Such a set will allow every girl to feel comfortable and look stylish in the cold season.

Wear with a white blouse or light shirt. In this outfit, you can safely go to work or an official meeting.

Denim

Every wardrobe has denim items, a ruffled denim skirt looks original in combination with chiffon and thin cotton. Ruffles and ruffles set the main accent of the image. They are worn with almost any top: with T-shirts, T-shirts, tops, blouses, jackets, turtlenecks.

short

With flounces fit girls with a slim figure. Can be combined with bright t-shirts, tops and T-shirts. This outfit is a great choice for everyday walks in the warm season. The play on contrasts looks interesting, light chiffon flared models in contrast with the top made of dense fabric - denim or raincoat. Conversely, skirts made of dense fabrics are combined with an airy top. It is also worth noting the option with a peplum, where the shuttlecock is sewn on top.

Long

Summer long skirts with flounces are popular this season, with its help it is easy to hide figure flaws. Suitable for everyday wear, as well as going out or a business meeting.

To create a casual style, wide floor-length skirts with frills made of dense material or cotton are suitable. A light top, a short jacket, t-shirts and T-shirts are suitable for such a thing. Fitted shirts and blouses are also suitable. Do not overload the image with unnecessary decor, prints and bulky accessories, we recommend minimalism.

The top can be decorated with jewelry, but not massive, aggressive and catchy. The main focus remains on the skirt. Add a thin belt to the waist, add a small shoulder bag. There are a lot of interesting images, the main thing is not to overload the top.

Choose laconic shoes for such sets. Stylists recommend opting for light sandals, sandals, pumps, ballet flats. At the same time, avoid high heels. The ideal option is a small stable heel or platform.

How to choose

Modern designers offer fashionistas a huge selection of skirts with flounces. The length is from mini to maxi, and frills and ruffles of various shapes can be located in any part of the outfit.

Summer models are made, as a rule, from thin light fabrics: chiffon, satin, silk, cotton. Off-season options are made from warm materials: dense cotton and wool.

It is important to note that this style is not suitable for every woman. When choosing, consider some features:

1. Curvy women should be careful with this style. Ruffles and other additional details visually expand the silhouette.
2. Girls with an inverted triangle figure should pay attention to skirts with large frills at the bottom or ruffles along the entire length. Such an outfit, complete with a blouse and a narrow belt, will visually enlarge the hips and emphasize the waist.
3. Slender girls can safely choose a skirt with a frill at the waist. But this style is not suitable for curvy ladies, as it visually makes the waist and hips wider.
4. Models with vertical frills are suitable for almost all girls.

A skirt is capable of making a real beauty out of every girl and is guaranteed to ensure the attention of the opposite sex. Fashion designers are aware of this, and, despite the general popularity of trousers, from season to season they praise it in their collections. Thanks to their fantasy, types and styles of skirts, there are dozens: mini-skirt, pencil skirt, year-round skirt, flounced skirt, maxi skirt and many more different and beautiful variations in their own way.

Below are very interesting and practical options for skirt patterns: patterns of straight skirts, patterns of skirts "Gode", patterns of skirts "Sun", patterns of straight skirts with a detachable cape, patterns of wrap skirts, patterns of skirts with a frill frill, patterns of skirts with undercut and drapery etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.

Straight two-seam skirt for a full figure

Although this skirt model (Fig. 143) is absolutely identical in appearance to a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 13), it has a number of features when constructing a pattern drawing. The main feature is that all long-length measurements (skirt length at the back, skirt length at the side and skirt length at the front) are measured from the bottom line. This skirt model is designed for women with a non-standard figure.

If your figure differs from the typical one (protruding belly, protruding buttocks) (Fig. 12 a, b, c), then to build a drawing of a straight two-seam skirt, the following are needed

St - semi-circumference of the waist;

Sat - semi-girth of the hips; Du - skirt length;

Dusp - the length of the skirt in front;

Dusb - the length of the skirt on the side;

Dusz - the length of the skirt at the back.

BASIC GRID CONSTRUCTION

When constructing a drawing of a straight two-seam skirt, the measurements of Dyusp, Dyusb and Dyusz must be set aside from the bottom line (this is the main difference when drawing a pattern for an atypical figure).

1. We build a right angle with the point T (Fig. 144).

2. Set aside 18-20 cm from point T down and set point B,

3. From the point T down, set aside the length of the skirt and set the point H.

4. Through the obtained points B and H we draw horizontal lines perpendicular to the straight line TN,

5. From point B along the line of the hips, we set aside a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) plus an increase in the free fit on the hips (Pb) and set point B1.

BB1 = Sat + Pb.

6. Through point B 1 we draw a vertical

straight line to the intersection with the waist line at point T1 and the bottom line at point H.

7. From point B to the left along the line of the hips, we postpone the segment BB2.

BB 2 \u003d BB1 / 2 - 1 cm \u003d HH2 \u003d TT2.

8. From the point H upwards, set aside a value equal to the length of the skirt in front (Dusp) and set the point T.

9. From the point H1 up to the waistline, set aside a segment equal to the length of the skirt at the back (Dusz) and set the point T 1 (1).

10. From the point H 2 upwards, a value equal to the length of the skirt on the side is deposited:

Thus, the contours of the base grid pass through the points H B T (1) T2t1 (1) B1H1H2H.

Further construction of the pattern drawing of this skirt is completely similar to the construction of a straight two-seam skirt (here), including the processing technology and the plan for laying out the patterns on the fabric.

Flared skirts

A wide, "flying" skirt "sun", falling with beautiful folds along the bottom line, reminiscent of the rays of the sun, is more suitable for women with a romantic nature (Fig. 146). This is one of the main classic models that have not gone out of fashion for more than a dozen years. Flared the skirt will suit women of any age with any type of figure.However, a flared skirt is not recommended for women with short stature, because due to its pomp it will visually reduce height even more.One of the few "universal" models of flared skirts that will be appropriate for everyday wear and for solemn occasions, it is suitable for any weather and for any season.The flared skirt can be sewn from almost any type of fabric, both plain and printed.

To build a drawing of a flared skirt, the following measurements are required: St and Du.

1. We build a right angle from the point T (Fig. 147).

2. We calculate the value of the radius that needs to describe the arc along the waist line

St / 3 - 1 \u003d 38/3 - 1 \u003d 11.6,

3. Set aside 11.6 cm from point T down and set point T1.

4. With the radius TT1 we describe the arc, at the intersection with the line T we put points T2 and T3-

5. From point T1 down, set aside a value equal to the length of the skirt:

T1H \u003d Du \u003d 50 cm.

6. With the radius TH we describe the arc and at the intersection with the line T we put points H1 and H2,

The contours of the skirt drawing pass through the points Т2Т1Т3H1HH2T2.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep the side cuts of the skirt.

4. Stitch right side seam, overcast, iron.

5. Sew the left side seam without finishing to the waist line 16-18 cm (for sewing in the zipper), overcast, iron.

6. Sweep in the zipper, sew in, remove the basting, iron.

7. Process the bottom of the product

8. Process the belt, after gluing adhesive interlining on the subbelt,

9. Stitch the belt to the skirt.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

If the width of the fabric does not allow you to cut out a skirt without seams, then the layout should be done as follows (Fig. 149). In this case, the fabric is folded in half (kerchief). If the width of the fabric is sufficient to crumble a flared skirt without seams, then see the layout plan in Fig. 148.

Two-seam semi-solar skirt

The skirt of this model belongs to the flared one and is characterized by the absence of darts along the waist line, and differs from the previous model in a less pronounced degree of flaring (Fig. 150). The length of the half sun skirt can vary according to your desire, but it is usually made shorter than the sun skirt. It is inherent in the youth style and will be perfectly combined, to the measurement; with a jacket of any length. To give this skirt a free and flying look, it is recommended to sew it from light fabrics; silk, chiffon, crepe, etc.

To build a drawing of a half-sun skirt, the following data is required: St and Du,

Building a design drawing

1. Initially, we build a right angle with the point T (rice, 151).

2. We calculate the arc along the waist line using the formula 2 x St / 3 - 1, or for our data we have: 2 x 38/2 - 1 \u003d 76/3 - 1 \u003d 24.3 cm.

3. Set aside 24.3 cm from the T point down and set the T1 point

4. From the point T to the left, set aside the same value, 24.3 cm, and set the point T2.

5. From the point T 1 down, set aside a value equal to the length of the skirt, that is, 50 cm, and set the point H1.

T1H1 \u003d T2H2 \u003d 50 cm.

6. Then we describe two arcs: one with a radius of TT 1 the other with a radius of TH1

The contours of the skirt drawing pass through points T1H1H2T2.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep the side cuts of the skirt and sweep them up.

2. Sweep the bottom of the skirt by 1-1.5 cm.

3. Make a preliminary fitting.

4. Stitch the right side seam, overcast and iron.

5. Sew the left side seam without finishing to the waist line 16-18 cm (for sewing in the zipper), overcast, iron

6. Sew in the zipper, sew in, remove the basting, iron.

7O work the bottom of the product.

8. Process the belt by first sticking the adhesive interlining on the subbelt.

9. Stitch the belt to the skirt.

10. Process the clasp on the belt.

11. Iron the skirt.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

When cutting, it is necessary to give an allowance for the seam of attaching the belt and an allowance of 1-1.5 cm for processing the bottom. The belt is cut out along the shared thread.

The layout plan is shown in fig. 152.

Skirt with circular one-sided pleats

A wide, "flying", folded skirt is always in fashion (rice, 153). It is appropriate in any situation and can be easily combined with all sorts of things. Suitable for women of any age and with any figure, adhering to the classic style. The length of this skirt can be chosen according to your desire (naturally, for women of the middle and older age group, a short skirt in the warehouse is not to face).

This model can be made from various fabrics, excluding those that are too dense and rigid, otherwise the warehouses will not retain their shape. The skirt will look good if it is sewn from thin fabrics, for example: rep wool flannel, gabardine.

To calculate and build a drawing of a skirt with circular warehouses, the following data is required; St = 38 cm, Sat = 52 cm, Du = 70 cm, Fri = 1 cm, Pb = 2 cm.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

1. Determine the distance between warehouses (this value depends on your desire). We take 4 cm.

2. Determine the number of warehouses, it is calculated by the formula

(C 6 + Pb / 4 x distance between warehouses) to 2. In our case, we get: (52 + 4/4) to 2 = 56/4 x 2 = 28 cm.

3. Determine the depth of the warehouses along the line of the hips. It equals the distance between warehouses multiplied by two:

4 x 2 = 8 cm.

5. The number of warehouses is multiplied by the distance between warehouses:

28 x 8 = 224 cm.

6. If the width of the fabric is 140 cm, then add 12 cm to the bottom hem.

Now we calculate the required amount of fabric for the entire skirt:

112 + 224 + 6 = 342 cm.

The number of canvases with a width of 140 cm 3 canvases, the number of seams is 3, the number of cuts is 6.

7. We start the dressing of the skirt in the warehouse with an allowance of one centimeter for the seam and half the depth of the warehouses, then set aside the distance between the warehouses, the depth of the warehouses, etc.

8. The distance between the warehouses at the bottom should be more than 1 cm, therefore, this distance is: 4 + 1-5 cm.

9. The depth of the fold at the bottom is 1 cm less than along the line of the hips (the dressing of the skirt in the fold on the fabric is shown in Fig. 154).

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Before you begin to make a warehouse, it is necessary to grind the weight of the panel, leaving one seam unstitched, overcast the edges of the seams,

hem and iron the bottom well

2. If we make markings on the wrong side of the fabric, then the lines of the folds are sewn with interlining stitches (the warehouses should be laid from the front side).

4. The swept-up warehouses are ironed on both sides (on the front side - through the fabric (for ironing), on the wrong side without fabric,

5. The upper section of the skirt is treated with a stitched belt, having previously stitched a gasket on the under-belt or gluing adhesive interlining with an iron.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

Depending on the length of the skirt and size, with a fabric width of 150 cm, it will take from 180 cm to 250 cm.

Blade skirt

A skirt of several wedges (made from an even number - 4, 6, 8+ 12) belongs to the classic style skirts and is popular with younger and middle-aged women. Due to the cuts made between the wedges, the effect of a loose and flying skirt is created, so it is advisable to sew it from a light, soft fabric, preferably with a one-sided direction of the pattern. Suitable for spring and summer wear and will be in place both on weekdays and on special occasions.

To calculate and build a drawing of a skirt with circular warehouses, the following data are required: Cr = 38 cm, C b = 52 cm, Du = 60 cm, Pt = 1 cm, Pb = 2 cm.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

Skirts from several wedges are cut according to the pattern of a pre-drawn wedge, or the wedges are drawn immediately on the fabric. The calculation and cutting of wedges, despite their number, is done according to a single principle. Consider building a pattern drawing for a six-seam skirt.

1. We calculate the width of the wedge along the waist line using the formula St / 0.5 of the number of wedges. The width of the wedge along the waist line is 38/3 = 12.7 cm.

2. We calculate the width of the wedge along the line of the hips according to the formula (Sb + Pb) / 0.5 of the number of wedges.

In our case, the width of the wedge along the hip line is (52 + 2) / 3 = 18 cm.

3. We build a right angle with point T.

4. Set aside 18 cm from point T down, set point B.

5. Through point B we draw a horizontal 5; straight line - the line of the hips.

6. From the point T down, set aside the grass length of the skirt. We get the point H, through which we also draw a horizontal line.

7. From the point T to the left and right, we set aside the values, the sum of which is equal to the width of the wedge along the waist line T T1 \u003d T T2 \u003d width of the wedge along the waist line / 2 \u003d 12.7 / 2 \u003d 6.4 cm.

8. From point B to the left and right, set aside the Values, the sum of which is equal to the width of the wedge along the hip line

BB 1 = BB2 = width of the wedge along the hip line / 2 = 18/2 = 9 cm.

9. From the point H to the left and right, set aside a value equal to the width of the wedge along the hip line HH1 = HH2 = BB 1 = BB2 = 9 cm.

10. Connect the points T 1, B1 and H1 and T2, B2 and H2. Thus, the base of the wedge passes through the points Т1Б1Н1НН2Б2Т2ГТ 1 .

To make the wedge more flared, you can, by connecting points T1 with B1 and T2 with B 2, continue straight lines to the bottom line.

11. Set aside 1 cm from point T down (this value can vary from 0.3 to 1 cm, depending on the width of the wedge at the bottom and on the thickness of the fabric) and set the point T3

12. We measure the distance between points T3 and H and put the resulting value down from point T1 and down from point T 2, respectively. We get points H3 and H 4 .

13. We draw the line of the wedge, as shown in Figure 156.

The contours of the wedge variety pass through the points T1B1N3N1NN2N4B2T2T3T1.

Rice. 156. Drawing of a wedge pattern for a skirt-blade

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep the wedges, stitch with a 1.5-2 cm seam. Remove the basting, iron the seams, leaving one seam 16-18 cm unstitched to the waist line.

2. Sew in the zipper, sew in, remove the basting, iron

3. Treat the top cut with a belt or corsage tape,

4. Align the bottom of the skirt during the fitting.

5P sew the bottom of the skirt.

6. Iron the skirt. The product is ready.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

When cutting, it is necessary to adhere to the economical consumption of fabric. It will be economical to cut if the pattern is successively placed on the unfolded fabric in opposite directions (Fig. 157a). If the fabric is pile or with a clearly defined pattern, then the wedges should be cut out in one direction so that the finished sewn wedges do not differ from each other (Fig. . 1576), Seam allowances should also be given.

Fabric consumption with a width of 60-70 cm - three skirt lengths plus 12 cm, with a width of 90 cm two skirt lengths plus 10 cm and with a width of 140 cm - one skirt length plus 5 cm.

Rice. 157 a. The layout of the wedges on the wedge skirt

Rice. 157 b. The layout of the wedges on the skirt-blade with pile fabric or fabric with a pattern.

After cutting, the sections of the wedges can be trimmed (if necessary). To do this, measure the length of the wedge in the middle and lay the same segment along the side cut from the waist line.

Year skirt

Classic style skirt. Always out of fashion and appropriate at any time of the year in any situation. Pairs perfectly with a jacket and is suitable for women of any age group. You can choose almost any fabric for this skirt. The degree of wedge flare can be chosen according to your desire. In this model, the zipper is located in the side seam.

To calculate and build a drawing of a skirt with circular warehouses, the following data are required: St = 38 cm, Sat = 52 cm, Du = 60 cm, Fri = 1 cm, Pb = 2 cm.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The "Godet" skirt, like the previous blade skirt, can consist of an even number of wedges (4,b,8,12). The construction of a pattern drawing is similar to a skirt-blade, but has a number of features.

Now we will directly proceed to the construction of the pattern (Fig. 159).

1. We build a right angle with point T.

2. Set aside 18 cm from point T down and set point B.

3. From the point T down, set aside a value equal to the length of the skirt, and set the point H.

4. Draw horizontal lines through points B and H.

5. We calculate the width of the wedge along the waistline according to the formula St / 0.5 of the number of wedges = 38/3 = 12.7 cm.

6. We calculate the width of the wedge along the hip line using the formula (Sb + Pb) / 0.5 number of wedges = (52 + 2) / 3 = 18 cm.

7. From point T in opposite directions, set aside a value equal to the width of the wedge along the waistline, and set points T1 and T2. T1T2 = 12.7 cm.

8. From point B in opposite directions, set aside a value equal to the width of the wedge along the hip line, and set points B1 and B2.

B1B2 = 18 cm.

9. We set aside 20 cm from point B down (the value is not constant, as a rule, dictated by a change in fashion) and set point G.

10. Draw a line from point G at a right angle and set points G 1 and G2:

G1G \u003d GY 2 \u003d B1B \u003d BB2.

We connect the obtained points, as shown in Fig. 159.

11. From the point G 1 to the left, set aside a value equal to G1H, and set the point G3.

12. From the point G 2 to the right, set aside a value equal to G2H2 and set the point G4.

13. With the radius Г1Гз we describe the arc.

14 Radius Г2Г4 similarly describes the arc.

Thus, the contours of our "Godet" skirt pass through the points TT]B 1G1G3N1NN2G4G2B2T2T (the amount of flare can be chosen arbitrarily).

Rice. 159. Drawing of a wedge pattern for Gode's skirt.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. We sweep the wedges from the waist line down and grind, leaving one of the seams unstitched by 16-18 cm.

2. Let's process the zipper.

3. We process the upper section of the skirt with a belt.

4. We do a fitting, during which we align hh1 skirts.

5. We process the bottom of the skirt and carefully iron it. The skirt is ready.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

When cutting the fabric for Godet's skirt, the pattern should be successively placed on the unfolded fabric in opposite directions (Fig. 160). If the fabric is pile or with a clearly defined pattern, then the wedges should be cut out in one direction so that when finished, the sewn wedges do not differ from each other. from friend. Allowances for the seams should also be given (the layout of the patterns on the fabric is similar to the previous skirt-blade).

Rice. 160. The layout of the wedges on the skirt Godet.

Four tiered tapered skirt

This skirt belongs to the category of conical skirts, in which the difference between the width of the skirt along the bottom and the half-girth of the waist exceeds 2/3 of the length of the skirt, Shn - Cm\u003e 2/3 Du. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the uniform expansion of the skirt along the entire length, in contrast to the "Godet" skirt. For conical skirts, as a rule, there are no darts along the waist line and a significant width along the bottom.

This skirt has a romantic style, an extended silhouette. It is made from four tiers of frills, cut out with a "semi-sun" or sliding into a cone (Fig. 161). Finished the top of the skirt with a belt, into which an elastic band is inserted, tightly fixing the skirt along the waistline.

The skirt is good from any fabric of the dress group, both plain and printed - silk, batiste, voile, chiffon, crepe, crepe-georgette, etc.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

1. We draw a vertical line with a vertex at point O (Fig. 162).

2. From the point O down, set aside OT equal to St multiplied by r, where r is the coefficient that determines the width of the skirt along the bottom and the entire length.

3. We carry out segments TB = Dgb, TN = Du.

4. From the obtained points T1B and H, we draw arcs of arbitrary length to the right up.

5. On the arc of the waist line, measure with a centimeter St and draw a radial straight line through the obtained point T1 and the center O, crossing the arcs of the hip line point B1 and the bottom line point H1.

Location of the side seam BB 2 = BB½ = 1-1.5 cm,

In this model, the role of a belt is performed by an elastic band, so there is no need to make a tuck in the waist, on the contrary, the waist circumference should be 10-15 cm larger than that of the customer's figure (for when fitting under an elastic band).

STYLE MODELING

In this model of the skirt, there are three articulations for flounces (Fig:, 162)

We divide the length of the TN skirt into 4 equal parts.

Parts 1, 2 and 3 will be the basis of the skirt, a frill will be sewn into the upper part of each, the frill is obtained by extending each part, cut out more than the length of each segment T1 1.2, 3.4 by 2-3 cm so that the base of the skirt is not visible, and the flounces overlapped the seams of their stitching.

FRILL MODELING

It can be moved apart by a large amount, there will be more tails on the shuttlecock (Fig. 163).

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1, Work the nude of each shuttlecock with a "Moscow" seam (a seam with a double hem).

2. Gather the top of each flounce on a double machine stitch with a distance of 0.5 cm and a stitch length of 4-5 mm.

3. Baste and stitch ruffles on top of each main part of the skirt. Overcast the seams and iron up, towards the main parts.

4. Connect the skirt in the center of the front and the center of the back, basting so that the beginning and end of each frill coincide. Overcast seams and iron.

5. Treat the top of the skirt with a strip of fabric t folded in half (nothing needs to be laid inside). From the side under the belt, bend the edge inward and sew 0.1 cm from the fold, thus, closing the belt from the inside, leave 1 cm unfinished for threading the elastic.

6. Iron the skirt, thread the elastic into the belt.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The fourth frill is the longest; so that it is enough in its entirety, it consists of two parts. On fig. 164 fabric in ½ width.

Wedge-shaped skirt based on Godet

This skirt model is made on the basis of the edge of the clan! "Gode". These wedges are an element of feminine and romantic style.

This model, based on the "Godet" cut, will suit women with any figure, since the height of the wedge will help hide all its flaws. If the waist is too large, then the level of expansion of the wedge should be at the level of the knee or slightly higher. If your height is too small, then you can visually magnify it by lowering the level of insertion of the wedge as low as possible, so that when finished, the skirt resembles a column with a large expansion at the bottom (turning the wedge up to 180 degrees). If you have too much hips, then the beginning of the expansion of the wedge should start from them to hide this part of the body.

The variation of fabrics for making such a skirt is also huge. It can beat any kind of fabric from chintz to drape, plain or printed. However, it is not recommended to cut out such a skirt from a striped or plaid fabric, or with a clearly repeating pattern, as this will lead to a failure of the composition and, when finished, will not look very aesthetically pleasing.

In this model, the wedge expansion start level is below the knee level and consists of ten wedges. There are undercuts in the two central wedges. Fastener on the side with a "zipper" (Fig. 165),

The model will suit women with a full figure, as it visually slims and lengthens the silhouette.

Wedges can be set-in or one-piece with product details, symmetrical and asymmetrical. The level of insertion of the wedge "Gode11" (or the level of the beginning of the expansion of the wedge) can be almost anywhere:

- in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe hip line;
- at the level of the knee;
- in the middle of the lower leg, etc.

But in any case, you need to look for the correct position of this level in order to visually lengthen or expand the figure. The reversal of the Godet wedge can be up to 160 degrees.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

Let's calculate the parameters of the 10-blade skirt (n = 10).

mm1 = Cm /(n /2) - Cm /5

bb1 \u003d (Sb + Pb) / (n / 2) \u003d (Sb + Pb) / 5

In this skirt, the wedges are symmetrical. The model of two central wedges with undercut RR1 is given in Figure 166. All other wedges have exactly the same appearance, only they are cut in one piece (the RR1 segment does not need to be cut).

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep and grind undercuts in two central wedges. Overcast the seams, iron upwards and fasten on the front side with a finishing line 0.5 cm from the edge.

2. Process the wedges "Godet" as follows:

a) make a notch (Fig. 167a);

b) apply a strip of fabric and baste to the seam (or stitch) (Fig. 167 b);

c) unscrew the strip in the direction of the cuts and iron.

3. Fold all the wedges face to face and sweep along the side seams. Stitch t overcast seams.

4. In the left side, leave 13-15 cm unstitched stitches for the zipper. Sweep, sew in "lightning".

5. Overcast the bottom of the skirt and stitch by 0.5-0.7 cm (it is not recommended to make a large seam, since the bottom line will not work out and will not be even).

6. Iron the seams to the center only at the top to the line of the beginning of the wedge.

7. Prepare belt loops. Strips of fabric 3-4 cm wide and a length equal to the width of the belt plus 2 seam widths (Fig. 168).

8. Fold the belt loops face to face with the skirt, stitch.

9. Process the top of the skirt with a stitched belt.

10. Unscrew the belt loops on the field, fold the top to the wrong side and sew with a finishing line 0.1 cm from the edge,

11. Sew 5 buttons in the center.

12. Iron the product and hang for 30 minutes.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

Three lengths are needed for the Godet skirt. The layout of the patterns for this skirt is shown in fig. 169.

Skirt with circular bow pleats

A skirt with circular, byte folds is similar to a skirt with circular one-sided folds, except that the width of the byte folds is twice as large (Fig. 170). It is suitable for women of any age and with any figure who adhere to the classic style. The length of this skirt is mainly done below the knees or at their level (70 cm).

This model can be made from various fabrics, excluding those that are too dense and hard (otherwise the warehouses will not retain their shape), for example, rep, woolen flannel, gabardine.

Building a design drawing

Measurements required to build the drawing: Ct = 38 cm, Sat = 52 cm, Du = 70 cm, Fri

2 cm, Pb = 4 cm,

1, Determine the number of byte storage by the formula

(Pb + Sat) / distance between warehouses x 2.

The distance between the warehouses is equal to the width of the warehouses. In our case, this distance is 8 cm.

(52 + 4) / 8 x 2 = 14 cm.

2. Determine the depth of the warehouses along the line of the hips. It equals the distance between the warehouses multiplied by two: 8 x 2 = 16 cm.

3. The number of warehouses is multiplied by the depth of the warehouses: 14 x 16 = 224 cm.

4. With a fabric width of 140 cm, add 12 cm for the hem.

5. Calculate the required length of fabric for this skirt:

224 + (14 x 8) + 6 = 224 + 112 + 6 = 342 cm.

6. The number of canvases with a fabric width of 140 cm is three.

7. Warehouse marking (Fig. 171) we begin to mark on the hip line from 1 cm (seam allowance). From it we set aside ¼ of the depth of the warehouses, then - the width of the warehouses, its full depth, the sheaf width of the warehouses, etc. We finish the milling ¾ of the depth of the warehouse and a seam allowance of 1 cm.

Circular byte warehouses can be stitched from the waist line by 18-25 cm,

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Before you start to make a warehouse, you need to grind everything. fabrics, leaving one seam unstitched, overcast the edges of the seams, hem and iron the bottom well *

2. If we make the markup on the wrong side of the fabric, then I sew the fold lines! interlining stitches (stores should be laid on the front side).

3. If the width of the entire panel is greater than the measurement of the waist circumference with an increase in free fit, then the excess is equally distributed to the depth of each warehouse along the waist line.

4. The swept warehouses are ironed on both sides (from the front side - through the fabric (ironing), from the wrong side - without fabric).

5. The upper cut of the skirt is treated with a stitched belt, having previously stitched a gasket on the subbelt or gluing adhesive interlining with an iron

Skirt pattern - trousers

Skirt - trousers is a symbiosis of a straight two-seam skirt and ordinary women's trousers. Naturally, it combines the details of these two products. As an independent women's waist product, the skirt-trousers appeared relatively recently, but despite this, it has firmly established itself in the wardrobe - mainly among young people. Like trousers, it is also practical and comfortable, in addition, due to its free, flying form, it will suit women with almost any figure, as it can ideally hide its flaws.

As in the case of trousers, it is also quite difficult to manufacture. Therefore, here we will offer only one model of a skirt - trousers, which, in addition to its relative simplicity, is a classic. This skirt - trousers are sewn with an opposite fold in the middle of the front and back halves (Fig. 177) and soft woolen fabrics, gabardine are used for sewing (if the model is sewn for the summer season, then different fabrics of the dress-suit group are used). A skirt-pants will be great with a blouse of any cut, a sweater or a vest, and can also be part of a suit.

BUILDING A DRAWING OF PANTS

To build a drawing of a pattern for a skirt - trousers, the following minks are needed:

St - semi-circumference of the waist, St = 34 cm; Sat - semiobchiat of the thighs, Sat = 48 cm; Gs - seat depth, Gs = 28 (26) cm; Diz - the length of the skirt - trousers, Diz = 70 cm; Pb - an increase in the hips, Pb \u003d 3 cm.

BACK PANEL

1. We build a right angle with a vertex at point T (Fig. 178).

2. On a vertical straight line, lay down the segments TB and TN, TB = 18 cm, TN = 70 cm.

3. Through points T, B and H we draw horizontal lines (the line of the hips and the line of the bottom).

4. On the line of the hips from point B to the left, set aside a segment equal to (Sb + Pb) / 2 - 1 cm = (48 + 3) / 2 - 1 = 24.5 cm and set point B3,

5. Draw a vertical line through point B3 and set point T1 at the intersection with the waist line, point H1 at the intersection with the bottom line.

E \u003d (Sb + Pb) - St \u003d (48 + 3) - 34 \u003d 51 - 34 \u003d 17 cm.

- The front tuck is 20% of the sum - i we darts: 17/100 × 20 = 3.4 cm.

— Side tuck — 50%; 17/10x50 = 8.5 cm.

- Back tuck - 30%: 17/100 × 30 = 5.1 cm.

7. From the point T1 to the left, set aside a segment equal to the solution of the side tuck / 2 \u003d 8.5 / 2 \u003d 4.25 cm and set the point T 2.

T1T2 \u003d Pbv / 2 \u003d 4.25 cm.

8. From the point H 1 to the right, set aside a segment equal to 5 cm, and set the point H2. We connect points B3 and H 2 with a straight line.

9. We connect points B3 and T 2 using a pattern of a smooth curve and, on the continuation of the curve from point T2 upwards, set aside 1.5 cm. Set point T2 (1)

T2T2 (1) = 1.5 cm.

10. On the waist line, we divide the segment TT 2 in half and put the point T3.

TT3 = T3T2 = TT 2/2.

11. From point T3 down to the line of the hips, we lower the perpendicular and at the intersection with the line of the hips we put point B 4,

12O t point B4 upwards set aside 2 cm and put point B4 (1)

13. From the point Tz on the waist line, to the left, lay off a segment equal to the opening of the back tuck / 2 \u003d 5.½ \u003d 2.55 cm and set the point T 4,

T3T4 - 2.55 cm.

14. From the point T3 on the waist line to the right, set aside a segment equal to the value of the segment T3T4 and set the point T9

15. We connect the points T 4 with B4 (1) B4 (1) with T9, respectively, thereby making a tuck on the back panel of the skirt - trousers. Then we make out the line of the upper cut with the help of patterns, connecting the points T 9 with T2 (1).

16O t point T on the waist line to the left, set aside a segment of 10 cm and set point T1 (TT1 \u003d 10 cm depth of the opposite warehouse). From the point H on the bottom line to the left, lay off a segment of 10 cm and set the point H1 (HH1 \u003d 10 cm - the depth of the oncoming warehouse) We connect the points T1 and H1

17. From the point T 1, lay down a segment equal to the arithmetic mean Gs + 1-2 cm \u003d (28 + 26) / 2 + 2 cm \u003d 27 + 2 \u003d 28 cm and set the point Ya2.

T 1 R2 \u003d 29 cm.

18. From the point I 2 we draw a horizontal line, on which we put off from the point I2 to the left a segment equal to l / 4Cb + 2 \u003d 48/2 + 2 \u003d 14 cm, and put the point I3.

R2R3 = 14 cm.

19. From point H 1 to the left, set aside a segment equal to the length of R2R3 and set the point H7-

H 1 H7 \u003d R2R3 \u003d 14 cm.

20 We connect the points H 7 and R3.

From the point H 7 we set aside 1.5-2 cm upwards and set the point H7, We connect the points H7 (1) and H using a smooth curve pattern,

We connect the point R3 with the line of the hips with a smooth curve (see Fig. 178).

Thus, the contours of the rear canvas, the bottom, skirts - trousers pass through the points T 2 (1) B3N2N7 (1) R3T1 T2 (1)

FRONT PANEL

1. We build a right angle with a vertex at point T5 (Fig. 179).

2. On a vertical straight line, lay down the segments T5B2 and T5H4, T5B2 \u003d 18 cm, T5H4 \u003d 70 cm.

3. Through points B 2 and H4 we draw vertical lines (the line of the hips and the line of the bottom).

4, From point B2 to the left, set aside a segment equal to (Sb + Pb) / 2 + 1 = (48 + 3) / 2 + 1 = 26.5 cm and set point B1.

B2B1 = 26.5 cm.

5, Through point B 1 we draw a vertical line and at the intersection of this line with the waist line we put point T4, at its intersection with the bottom line - point H3,

6. From the point T5 along the waistline to the left, lay off a segment equal to the opening of the side tuck/2 = 8.5/2 = 4.25 cm, and set the point T 6 .

T5T6 = 4.25 cm, T5T6 = T1T2.

7. From the point H 4 to the right, on the continuation of the bottom line, set aside 5 cm and set the point H5

H4H5 = 5 cm.

8- Connect points B 2 and H5

9. We connect points B 2 and T6 using patterns of a smooth curve and on its continuation from point T6 upwards set aside 1.5 cm and set

point T 6 (1)

T6T6 (1) = 1.5 cm.

10. From the point T 4 to the right, set aside from 6 to 9 cm (in our case, 7 cm) and set the point T7.

T4T7 = 7 cm.

11. From point T 7 to the right, set aside a segment equal to the size of the solution of the front tuck and set the point T8 (T7T8 \u003d Rpv \u003d 3.4 cm). After that, we divide the segment. T7T8 in half. From its middle we draw a segment equal to 8-12 cm (in our case 10 cm, and set point B. We draw a tuck as shown in Fig. 179,

12. Set aside 10 cm from point T4 to the left and set point T (4) 1.

T4T4 (1) 10 cm (counter stock depth).

13. Set aside 10 cm from point H3 to the left and set point H3.

H3H3 - 10 cm (counter warehouse depth).

14. We connect the points T 4 (1) and H3 (1) with a straight line.

15. From the point T 4 (1) we lay down a segment equal to the arithmetic mean Gs + 1-2 cm = (28 + 26) / 2 + 1 cm = 29 cm and set the point I.

T4 (1) \u003d 29 cm \u003d T (1) R2,

16. From the point I draw a horizontal line to the left, on which we set aside a segment equal to 1/4Сб - 1 cm = 48/4 -1 = 11 cm, and set the point I 1.

IYA 1 \u003d 11 cm.

17. From the point H3 to the left, we set aside a segment equal to YYA 1 \u003d 11 cm, and set the point H6.

H3H6 \u003d RJ 1 \u003d 11 cm.

18. We connect the points I 1 with H6 with a straight line.

19. From the point H 6, set aside 1.5-2 cm upwards and set the point H6 (1).

20. We connect the points H 6 (1) with H3 using a pattern with a smooth curved line.

The contours of the front panel pass through the points T 6 (1) B2N5N6 (1) R1T4 (1) T6 (1)

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Lay the snares along the contour lines of the pattern.

2. Sweep and stitch the tucks on the front and back panels. Carry out wet heat treatment of tucks.

3. Sweep side and step cuts. Sew them, leaving the left side seam unstitched in the zipper area (18-20 cm). Overcast the cuts, iron the seams,

4. Sweep and stitch the two halves of the skirt along the middle seam of the front and back panels. Wrap the cuts. Iron the seam.

5. Lay and sweep out counter warehouses.

6. Process the upper cut with a stitched belt,

7. Process the bottom of the skirt - trousers,

8. Iron the finished product.

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This chic skirt with three frills sew on pattern maybe in a couple of hours. At the same time, it will look very luxurious! The whole secret of the skirt is in satin fabric and frill cut.

Before you start modeling a skirt, you need to build it according to your own standards.

Skirt pattern modeling

Click to Enlarge the Ruffled Skirt Pattern

Click to enlarge the ruffled skirt pattern.

Description of work:

The waistline of the skirt is lowered by 3 cm. If desired, you can lower the waist of the skirt up to 5 cm.

On the back half of the skirt from the waist, set aside 3 cm down. Draw a black dotted line, cut along the line.

Draw dotted lines on the pattern. Frills will be sewn along these lines.

Model the front of the skirt in the same way.

In addition, it is necessary to build patterns of skirt frills. To do this, measure the distance between the blue marks 1-1 on the front and back of the skirt.

Draw a flounced skirt pattern as shown in pattern 3.

In the same way, measure the distance on the pattern of the front and back of the skirt between the marks 2-2 and 3-3, respectively.

Draw 2 more patterns of shuttlecocks - middle and bottom.

The width of the flounces in finished form is 20-22 cm. You can reduce or increase it as you wish.

How to sew a skirt pattern

On the front and back of the skirt, sweep and stitch darts.

Stitch the side seams.

Hem the bottom of the skirt.

Process the shuttlecocks along the bottom (tuck and glue with adhesive tape or hem by hand), sew along the top with a stitch 4 mm wide, pull it to the desired length, straighten the folds. Put a flounce on the upper cut of the skirt, bast, stitch.

In the same way, stitch the middle and bottom shuttlecock according to the markup.

Sew a hidden zipper along the back of the skirt, grab the frill into the zipper.

On the top, process the skirt with an oblique trim, sew a small hook at the top of the zipper.