Buryats: national costume for men and women, photo. National Buryat costume

The national Buryat clothing draws a clear line between men's and women's clothing and is made from fur, wool, leather, silk, and paper fabrics.

Outerwear

The national dress consists of degala- a kind of caftan made of dressed sheepskins, having a triangular notch on the top of the chest, pubescent, as well as sleeves tightly clasping the hand brush, with fur, sometimes very valuable. In summer degel could be replaced by a cloth caftan of a similar cut. In Transbaikalia, they often used bathrobes, the poor - paper, and the rich - silk. In stormy times over degala worn in Transbaikalia saba, a kind of overcoat with a long kragen. In the cold season, especially on the road - daha, genus wide bathrobe sewn from dressed skins, with wool outward.

Dagel (dagil) it is pulled together at the waist with a belt sash, on which a knife and smoking accessories were hung: a flint, a ganza (a small copper pipe with a short shank) and a tobacco pouch.

Underwear

Narrow and long trousers were made of roughly dressed leather (rovduga); shirt, usually made of blue fabric - so that.

Shoes

Shoes - winter high fur boots from the skin of the legs of foals, or boots pointed up toe. In summer they wore shoes knitted from horsehair with leather soles.

Hats

Men and women wore small-brimmed round hats with a red tassel ( hall) at the top. All the details, the color of the headdress have their own symbolism, their own meaning. The pointed top of the hat symbolizes prosperity, well-being. Silver pommel denze with a red coral at the top of the cap as a sign of the sun, illuminating the entire Universe with its rays. Brushes ( zalaa sesag) represent the rays of the sun. An invincible spirit, a happy fate is symbolized by the developing on top of the cap hall. knot sompy denotes strength, strength. The favorite color of the Buryats is blue, which symbolizes the blue sky, the eternal sky.

Women's clothing

Women's clothing differed from men's in decorations and embroidery. Degal for women, it is turned around with colored cloth, on the back - at the top, embroidery in the form of a square is made with cloth, and copper and silver jewelry made of buttons and coins are sewn onto clothes. In Transbaikalia, women's dressing gowns consist of a short jacket sewn to a skirt.

Decorations

Girls wore from 10 to 20 braids, decorated with many coins. Around their necks, women wore corals, silver and gold coins, etc.; in the ears - huge earrings, supported by a cord thrown over the head, and behind the ears - " polty"(pendants); on the hands of silver or copper bugaki(a kind of bracelets in the form of hoops) and other decorations.

Class hour for younger students with a presentation. It acquaints children with the traditions of our peoples, namely with the national costumes of Russians and Buryats. It is colorful, informative and exciting to learn about modern costumes and costumes of our ancestors.

Subject: Traditions of my people. National costumes of Russians and Buryats.

Purpose: to introduce Russian and Buryat national costumes.

Tasks: to promote the formation of a tolerant attitude towards people of different nationalities;

continue to cultivate love and respect for the native land, for the people who live in it;

to develop interest in the culture of another people, to promote the activation of children's creativity;

to encourage respect for the nature of the native land.

Equipment: Multimedia (projector, laptop, screen), Russian and Buryat national costumes, dolls in national costumes, dictionaries for children, Power Point presentation

The course of the classroom.

Organizing time.

- Hello guys. Let's all stand up, form a circle and join hands. Hand in hand, we pass on good good energy to each other.

The circle is a symbol of unity. He is like the sun, which is revered by all the peoples of the world. A Russian round dance is dancing in a circle, a Buryat dance is an ehor. We are all now united and become like one big family.

Now guys, take your seats.

A melody sounds. I read poetry.

Siberian region is my land

Native spaces!

We have rivers and fields,

Lakes, steppes, mountains!

Buryat and Russian

Like one family

Though their language is different...

All daughters and sons

Native land are beautiful!

Guys, did you like the poem? What is it about?

We are lucky to live in a picturesque region where people of different nationalities live side by side. People of what nationalities live next to us?

Each nation has its own language, its own national holidays, its own songs, its own dances, its own customs, its own national dress. And today, at an hour of communication, we will talk about the costumes of Russians and Buryats, how they are similar, how they differ.

I am a Buryat (a teacher in a national Buryat costume)

The basis of the Buryat folk costume is a robe (degel), which was sewn to the toe.

Guys, what do you think, why this length? (children's statements)

The Buryats used to lead a nomadic life, grazed cattle, hunted. Such a length of the degal protected them from the cold in winter and from the sultry heat in summer.

- And what is the basis of the Russian folk costume for men?

(is a shirt. Shirts were sewn knee-length. It was necessarily belted with a belt, to which a wallet, comb, pouch (pouch for tobacco) were hung, since there were no pockets.

And the Buryats had a belt (behe) as an obligatory element of the costume. It served not only for beauty, they also hung a knife in a sheath, a snuff box, and a flint in a rag bag on it. According to ancient Buryat customs, the belt could not be thrown to the ground, stepped over it, it is a symbol of the honor and dignity of a man.

Guys, what do Russians and Buryats have in common in this element of costume? What is the difference?

Who remembers the name of the robe in the Buryat language? And the belt? (you can repeat the names in chorus)

Guys, what did Russian women wear in the old days? (show sundress) The complex of clothes included not only a sundress, but also a shirt, and also an apron. The undershirt, it was called - black, the top, elegant - red.

The costume of a Buryat woman consisted of a long dress (degel), a long sleeveless jacket (hubaisi), which protected the woman's chest and spine. It still had to be earned, i.e. marry. Unmarried girls wore a short sleeveless jacket (uuzha).

Is this element of the women's costume similar or different?

4. Guys, try to guess the riddle. (first in Buryat, then in Russian) Deere huunab I am sitting on horseback

Ezeee madenaguib I don't know on whom

Tanilaa haraad Meet a friend -

Doshoo buuzha, mendee helenab. I'll jump off - I'll welcome (hat)

A mandatory addition to the costume, both men and women, were headdresses, which received special attention. Buryat hats were the same for men, women and children. It had a conical shape, which ends with a brush (zalaa) of a necessarily red color. Brushes mean the sun's rays, vital energy.

Russian men's hats are not so diverse. Usually caps were worn, young people - hats, in winter - fur hats with earflaps.

The headdresses of Russian girls were varied. They had the form of a hoop, a wreath and were called differently: bandage, headman. Their feature is the open parietal part (showing the headman). The bride before the wedding changed the bandage for a special dress - a coruna, decorated with foil and gems. The most common headdress among Russian women was kokoshniks. The kokoshnik symbolized the flowering of life.

5. - Guys, maybe you know the name of the shoes that were worn in Rus'?

The most common footwear among Russians was bast shoes, which were woven from bast (the inner part of the bark of young deciduous trees). A pair of bast shoes was worn for 5-6 days, then became unusable. Therefore, going on a long journey, I had to take 3-4 pairs. Later came boots that only the rich could afford. In the warm season, they walked barefoot, which is very good for health.

Buryat shoes are called gutul. She was light and comfortable. The toe of this shoe was slightly bent up and decorated with patterns. Women's shoes among the Buryats were similar to men's, only more elegant.

Why do you think the toe of the shoe was bent up among the Buryats? (Children's statements)

The Buryats greatly revered the holy land - mother. It was a great sin for them to dig in the ground, to dig a hole, to hurt the earth. And in order not to injure the ground when walking, their toe of the shoe was bent up.

And the shoes of Russian women were called cats. These are thick-soled shoes with heels. Cats were put on several pairs of stockings (up to 8 pairs), so their size was large. These shoes were richly decorated with appliqué. The cats were kept on their feet with the help of laces - oborov.

Guys, did the shoes worn by the Russians differ from the shoes worn by the Buryats?

6. Physical Minute. Today I will introduce you to the Buryat game - the Five Fingers counting rhyme. Baarbadai

Batan tuulai

Toohon tobsho

Toli Baisa

Bishykhan Shagshuudey (children sing a song)

7. We took apart the costume of the Buryat and Russian people. Now you have an idea of ​​what elements they consist of, what material they were sewn from. What can you say about the costumes of Russians and Buryats? (children's statements)

The clothes of the Buryats and Russians are somewhat similar, but the costume of one people still differs from each other. It can be supplemented with some elements that can tell a lot about a person: where he lives, what age, what income.

Each nation sewed its clothes from natural material, treating nature with care and love. And therefore our ancestors were healthy and lived long in harmony with nature.

8. Movie - slide

9. The game "Dress the doll" (children dress the dolls of a boy and a girl in Russian national clothes, then in Buryat national clothes, while correctly naming all the elements of the costume.)

10. Summary of the lesson: From time immemorial, people of different nationalities lived in Siberia together and amicably, passed on their experience, adopted from others, families were created and children were born.

As the legend says,

Three hundred years ago

Met in Siberia

Russian and Buryat

Pas Buryat flock

Somewhere off to the side.

And drove up to him

Russian on horseback.

The national clothing of the Buryats consists of a "dygil" - a kind of caftan made of dressed sheepskins, which has a triangular notch on the top of the chest, pubescent, as well as sleeves tightly clasping the hand brush, with fur, sometimes very valuable; in the summer, among some Buryats, the “dygil” is replaced by a cloth caftan of a similar cut.

In summer, dressing gowns are in great use, for the poor - paper, and for the rich - silk. The left floor was wrapped on the right side and fastened on the side. The dressing gown was girded with a belt made of leather or fabric. In rainy times, a “saba”, a kind of overcoat with a long kragen, is put on over the dygil in Transbaikalia; and in the cold season, especially on the road - "daha", a kind of wide dressing gown, sewn from dressed skins, with wool outward. The dygil (degil) is pulled together at the waist with a belt sash, on which a knife and smoking accessories hang: a fire starter, a ganza (a small copper pipe with a short shank) and a tobacco pouch. The Buryats are big hunters before smoking, so everyone smokes, not excluding women and children.

The underwear - trousers and a shirt - are of Russian cut. Narrow and long trousers are made of roughly dressed leather (rovduga); the shirt, usually of blue daba, is not washed or removed from the majority of the population until it is worn out. Footwear consists of "unts", something like boots made of foal skins - or ordinary boots; in summer, in some areas, horsehair knitted shoes with leather soles are worn. Men and women cover their heads with a round gray hat with small brim and with a red tassel at the top. Men usually cut their hair short; some wear small braids, the lamaist clergy shave their heads.

Women's clothing differs from men's in decorations and embroidery; so, the dogil of women is turned around with colored cloth, on the back - embroidery in the form of a square is made with cloth at the top and, in addition, copper and silver jewelry made of buttons and coins are sewn onto clothes. There are no such decorations in Transbaikalia; women's dressing gowns consist of a short jacket sewn to a skirt; Buddhist women who have taken a certain spiritual vow wear red cloth ribbons over their shoulders. The girl's costume is distinguished by the absence of "uji" (a kind of sleeveless jacket that all women must wear over a dygil) and a headdress - a hoop decorated with corals and silver.

The Buryats make especially great efforts to decorate their heads: in the absence of long natural hair, they are replaced by horsehair; married women braid their hair in 2 braids, often connecting them together with a metal ring; the ends of the braids are put into velvet covers, decorated with corals and silver, and go down to the chest; girls have braids from 10 to 20, decorated with many coins; Buryats wear corals, silver and gold coins around their necks. Huge earrings hang in the ears, supported by a cord thrown over the head, and “polty” (pendants) are visible behind the ears; on the hands are silver or copper “bugaks” (a kind of bracelets in the form of hoops), etc. All jewelry, and especially head jewelry, varies greatly in terms of wealth and place of residence

NATIONAL BURYAT COSTUME FEATURES OF BURYAT CLOTHING The Buryat national costume is a part of the centuries-old culture of the Buryat people. It reflects its culture, aesthetics, pride and spirit. Buryat clothing was made by both women and men. The tailor had to have a lot of knowledge and skills, in particular, he was an artist and an embroiderer, glued and quilted, dressed skins, knew the ornament, colors. Traditional Buryat men's clothing is presented in two types - degel (winter robe) and terlig (summer). Outerwear was straight back. The main material for winter clothing was sheepskin, which was edged with velvet and other fabrics. Everyday degel was covered with cotton fabric, and festive - with silk, velvet. In turn, degels have two floors - upper (gadar hormoy) and lower (dotor hormoy), back (ara tala), front, bodice (seezhe), sides (enger). The men's dressing gown was usually sewn from blue fabrics, sometimes brown, dark green, and burgundy. The main decor of men's outerwear fell on the chest part of the upper floor (enger). The character of the design of the enger is stable, although there were elements of territorial and generic differences in it. An obligatory attribute of a man's dressing gown were belts, various in material, manufacturing technique and size. The upper part to the waist is like a large pocket. In the deep bosom of their clothes, people kept a bowl in a soft case - in this way they ensured personal hygiene. At any time and in any yurt, you could use your own dishes for fragrant tea or rich broth. The national clothes of the Mongols and Buryats are well adapted to the nomadic way of life. The length of the degel covers the legs both when walking and when riding, which does not allow the legs to freeze even in severe frost. The clothes are not only ideal for riding, but can also serve as an emergency bed - you can lie down on one floor and take cover on the other. There are about 400 types of degels, 20 types of national shoes and 10 types of belts. Women's clothing (dressing gown, sleeveless jacket) has age characteristics, it strictly corresponds to the age of women, changes in accordance with the transition from one age to another and with a change in position in society, family. Girls wore long terligs or winter degels, girded with cloth sashes that emphasized a thin, flexible waist. Everyday sashes were made of dalemba, and elegant ones were made of striped silk. At the age of 14-15, girls change their hairstyle and cut of the dress, which was cut off at the waistline, and the decorative braid of the tuuz closed the seam line around the waist in it. There was no sleeveless jacket in the girl's suit. When getting married, girls braid two braids, in accordance with the rite uhe zahaha (“weaving hair”). To perform this ceremony, close relatives of the groom, bridesmaids gather. The hair is combed with the comb of the groom's mother, in contrast to the Russian ceremony, where, on the contrary, one female braid was braided from two girl's braids. The type of Buryat women's jewelry is designed for a pair of braids. Women's wedding attire - degelei - is worn over the dress, leaving the front open, there was a slit at the back of the hem. The outerwear of married women is cut off at the waist. Summer women's dressing gowns are most often sewn from blue fleece, the seam line is closed only in the front with decorative braid. The clothes of older women are distinguished by the simplification of forms and decorations. Everyday robes are made of cheaper fabrics and dark shades, the sleeves are lighter than other outfits. A sleeveless jacket (Uuzha) that complements the outfit is an indispensable element of the costume of a married woman of all Buryat tribes and clans. There are two types - short and long. A short sleeveless jacket (esegyn uuzha) ends at the waist line, this is due to the ancient Buryat custom, when a woman in the presence of men, especially her father-in-law, could only appear with her head and back covered, that is, in a cap and sleeveless jacket. Women used bright fabrics with deep armholes, a narrow back, and a straight slit in front. Long-sleeved ouzhas are worn by Cis-Baikal Buryats in the Ekhirit-Bulagatsky, Kachugsky, Olkhonsky regions, Tunkinsky, Barguzinsky and Aginsky Buryats of Transbaikalia. Basically, for the manufacture of such a sleeveless jacket, a short version was taken, to which they sewed a long skirt tucked at the waist with a slit at the back. Such an uzha is used for riding and is called a morin uzha. A lot of interesting facts are connected with sleeveless jackets. So, in the time of Genghis Khan, the state regulated clothing and its colors. When cutting, the Mongols used a special measuring technique: by the color and quality of the fabric from which the clothes were made, it was possible to determine which class a person belongs to. "Malgay" headdress for the Buryats is an object endowed with a special sacredness. The shape of the dress is hemispherical, repeating the shape of the sky and the surface of the yurt. The cap is topped with a "denze" - a hemispherical silver pommel with a red bead symbolizing the sun. Red silk tassels flow down from the bottom of the "danze" - a symbol of life-giving sun rays. materialized in the subject incarnation. Full symbolism of the top of the headdress "Let my family multiply like the rays of the golden sun, let my life energy not run out and flutter over me." Men's clothing consisted of underwear and outerwear, hats, shoes. The costume was complemented by a belt, a knife, a flint and other items. It differed by season: winter and summer; by appointment - industrial, everyday elegant. Traditional men's outerwear was straight back, i.e. not detachable at the waist, with long hemlines that widen downwards. From one to three silver, coral, gold buttons were sewn on the collar. The following buttons were sewn on the shoulders, under the arm, and the lowest - at the waist. The top buttons were considered to bring happiness, grace (hasheg buyan). During prayers, the performance of rituals, the buttons on the collar were unbuttoned so that grace entered the body without obstacles. The middle buttons - uner bayanai - regulated the large number of offspring, honor and dignity. The lower buttons were symbols of the fertility of livestock, the material wealth of the owner - hasheg buyanai. The longevity of a person depended, according to the views of the Buryats, Mongols, even on how buttons are fastened. The canonical scheme of putting on and fastening - from the bottom up - starts from the shoes, then goes to the dressing gown, while the buttons are fastened from the bottom up, the hat is put on last. An obligatory accessory for a men's dressing gown, various in material, manufacturing technique and size. The utilitarian function of the belt is to gird a men's dressing gown straight along the cut. At the same time, the belt protected from the cold, which was impossible when riding. Men's dressing gowns were sewn without pockets: girded, they carried a bowl, a pouch, a pipe and other accessories in their bosoms. The belt served as a kind of corset, because during long riding, the back and camp received additional support and were protected from colds. Belts could be knitted, woven from sheep's wool in dark colors, they were wide and long in size. The length of the belt was determined in two lengths of outstretched arms, the width was three widths from the nail of the thumb to the tip of the middle finger. The knife itself had a magical effect, as the ancients believed. Its magical function was to protect people from evil influences. If a boy was born, then at the head of his cradle, a knife or blade was folded without fail.

Khamagaeva Nadya

The author studied different Buryat headdresses, manufacturing features, colors and styles. Nadya came to the conclusion that in the conditions of the steppe, where the winds are constantly blowing, the Buryats needed hats to maintain their health.

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Preview:

Headdress.

Men and women wore small-brimmed round hats with a red tassel (zalaa) at the top. All the details, the color of the headdress have their own symbolism, their own meaning. The pointed top of the hat symbolizes prosperity, well-being. Silver pommel denze with red coral at the top of the cap as a sign of the sun, illuminating the entire Universe with its rays. The brushes (zalaa seseg) represent the rays of the sun. An invincible spirit, a happy fate is symbolized by the hall developing at the top of the cap. Sompi knot means strength, strength. The favorite color of the Buryats is blue, which symbolizes the blue sky, the eternal sky.

Hats, which clearly showed regional differences, were an obligatory addition to the costume for both men and women. This is especially noticeable when comparing the caps of the Trans-Baikal and Cis-Baikal Buryats. Traditional hats were sewn by hand, and purchased ones were also worn along with them. Hats were worn from childhood, children were no different from adults. Women took off their hats only when they went to bed. Traditionally, hats were sewn according to the season and purpose: winter and summer, everyday and elegant. The material was black or blue cloth. Elegant hats were sewn from silk fabrics of blue and blue tones. The band of the summer hat was covered with plush, velvet, and otter, lambskin, lynx, fox, and kolka furs were also used. The crown of the hat was sometimes insulated with a felt lining or lambskin, and squirrel and hare furs were also used.

Men's headwear.

Yuuden malgai (cap-hood) - one-piece, one-piece headdress with headphones and a semicircular protrusion that covers the neck. The hat consisted of two halves, one-piece: the top was cut out along with headphones and capes, narrow in the forehead and wide in the back of the head. The fabric is black or blue cloth, like the subu - a cape worn in bad weather. Such clothes existed among the Buryats of the steppe regions: Zakamensky, Dzhida, Aginsky Buryats. Among the Mongols, such a hat was called a yuban, among the Kazakhs - a cap.

Khasabshatai malgai (hat with ears) - a one-piece winter headdress with a high crown and earmuffs. The top of the hat and earmuffs were cut out from one piece of fabric. The seam ran along the back of the head. Protrusions were left on the front and back of the head, which, in warm weather, turned up along with the headphones. In cold and windy weather, the headphones were worn down. These hats were worn by men, women and children.

Toyobsho malgay (cone-shaped with a curved top and sewn edges) is a summer version of a hat with ears. It was also worn by men, women and children.

Shobogor malgay (a pointed hat with a vertical line of crown) - such a hat was considered the headdress of the Mongols, lamas, who took the vow of holiness of old women (shabgansa). Such a hat was mandatory for a boy from the age of five, if they were going to give him to a datsan. Similar hats were found among the Buryats of the Selenginsky, Dzhida and Kyakhtinsky regions of Transbaikalia, where the Sartuls and other immigrants from Mongolia were settled, as well as among the Turkic-speaking peoples of the Sayano-Altai - Tuvans, Altaians. Everyone wore hats: men, women and children. The obligatory decoration of pointed caps is the pommel: zalaa (tassels of red silk threads), jengshe (knot of red silk cord), denze (metal pommel).

Tatar malgay - Tatar hat. In the Irkutsk region, the most common was a hat in the form of a cap made of skins, trimmed along the lower edge with lynx fur. This hat was called "Tatar malgay" - (i.e. "Tatar"), a similar form of hat was common among many peoples.

Halyuun malgay - an elegant hat made of an otter. It was worn by the Irkutsk Buryats. The round top was sewn from velvet, the lower cylindrical field from otter skins. Otter fur is expensive, very wearable, so people from the Irkutsk region - especially the elderly - sometimes wear them today. This hat was considered elegant, festive. Women put on hats "bizga" or borgo malgai. The top was made from a piece of fabric laid in soft folds. In the center, a circle of cardboard was sewn, sheathed with fabric, the crown was sheathed with a braid. Flowers, leaves made of velvet, silk, brocade, and dyed feathers were sewn on wedding hats instead of a lace.

Among Transbaikal nomads, 3 types of hats are most popular:

The most ancient, one-piece, one-piece Yuden headdress, with headphones, and a semicircular protrusion covering the neck. The cap consisted of 2 halves - right and left. The top was cut out along with the headphones, it was narrow in the forehead and wide in the back of the head. This form well protected the face and neck. They sewed it from black or blue dense cloth, like a subu - a cape worn in bad weather.

This clothing (suba and yuden) was most often found among the Buryats of the steppe regions (Agin, Kyakhta, Dzhida, Zakamensky). Among the Mongols, it was called yuban, among the Kazakhs - a bashlyk, among the Tuvans - bydzelge. (R. Badmaeva).

The “32-fingered hat” (32 khurgatai malgay) with a high conical crown and bent-back fields was considered the traditional headdress of the Buryats of the southern regions. Mostly blue fabrics were used. To sew a hat, a two-layer piece of fabric was quilted, drawn into 32 truncated cone-segments, each segment was stuffed with wool, after which the edges were sewn together. The pommel of the jincha was sewn to the top of the crown in the form of a ball made of a piece of cedar covered with fabric, or an “ulza” knot was tied from thick cords of fabric. A zalaa, a red silk tassel made of twisted cords or silk threads, was also tied to the jincha. The rim of the winter hat was made from the fur of a lynx, otter, fox. The front part of the lapel of the cap - the visor was called parabsha, dalibsha, headphones-khasabsha were sewn on the sides.

It was very important that the seams were even, if the seam was crooked, then such a headdress could not be worn. The number 32 corresponded to the number 32 of the Sundui deities. There is another explanation for the number of lines 32 - “32 generations of Mongolian-speaking peoples.” Such hats with vertical lines were worn by lamas, old women and boys if they were going to give them to the datsan.

The headdress of the Khori-Buryats was sewn with 11 horizontal lines - according to the number of 11 clans of the Khori Buryats. There were 8 lines on the headdress of the Agin Buryats - according to the number of 8 Agin clans.

The summer version of the hats also consisted of a crown and band, cut separately and sewn to each other. The top of the hat and earmuffs of winter hats were cut out from one piece of fabric. Such a hat was called khasabshatai malgay. In cold and windy weather, the headphones were worn down, sometimes tied under the chin. In warm weather, the headphones were wrapped up and tied with a ribbon at the back of the head. Winter hats were lined with lynx, otter, and lambskin fur.

The Tsongol hat is distinguished by a rounded low top of the crown, a relatively wide band (taturga) expanding above the middle of the forehead, the top of the crown of the Dzhida hat is sharp, tall, narrower band has the same width around the entire circumference of the crown. Dzhida winter hats made of otter fur were lower than Tsongol ones. Tsongol shoes were distinguished by a more curved toe and thin soles.

Women's hats

Hats were worn from childhood, in cut they were no different from the hats of adults. Women took off their hats only when they went to bed. The cut and design features make it possible to single out several types of hats, both common with men's and different from them.

A traditional winter headdress - khasabshatai malgay - with a high crown and earmuffs.

Summer hat - toyrobsho malgay. The band of elegant hats was sheathed with plush, otter fur, which only wealthy women could afford.

Shobogor malgay - in women of Selenginsky, Kyakhtinsky, Dzhidinsky and other regions of the south of Buryatia.

Knitted hat in the form of a cap - a ball, a ball. It almost disappeared by the end of the 19th century. Later, this hat was replaced by a purchased Kubanka-type headdress. Distributed in Cisbaikalia.

Summer cap - beaded - headdress of girls and young married women of the Irkutsk region. Low (10-12 cm) hat made of a straight piece of fabric with a round flat top. Bortogo (winter fur version) was worn in winter with a weekend suit. The headdress was kept until recently as a daily routine for older women.

Bizga malgay is a kind of summer hats. Straight, low with a round top, made of narrow (6-8 cm wide) fabric. The top of the dress was also made from a straight piece of fabric, but gathered into folds in the center of the cap. Here they sewed colored fabric on a cardboard basis, a coin or a beautiful button. Bizga met in the Bokhansky district of the Irkutsk region and was more elegant, a wedding headdress.

In addition to the caps, the Buryats of Transbaikalia had bandages daruulg, tattoourg. They were worn on the head with an elegant hat, usually in the warm season, for a wedding, for a walk. This adornment in the Selenginsky region looked like a crown with a protrusion on the front part, the daruulga of the Khori people was straight and not wide. Daruulga was usually sewn from silk, plush, velvet, usually blue on a solid basis (birch bark, cardboard). Beads, corals with rare inserts of turquoise, malachite, amber were sewn on top. The headband of the girls was distinguished by temporal pendants made of bunches of beads, made up of bunches. Each link ended with tassels of bright red thread, plates, silver coins. Married women wore a bandage without pendants.

A headdress for a Buryat, a Mongol is an object endowed with a special sacredness. The shape of the dress is hemispherical, repeating the shape of the sky, the surface of the yurt, the outlines of hills and hills, typical for the territory of Buryatia and Mongolia. The conical shape resembles the contours of mountains - the abode of spirits, masters, deities. The hat is topped with a denze - a hemispherical silver pommel with a red bead symbolizing the sun. From the lower part of the denze, red silk tassels flow down - a symbol of life-giving sun rays materialized in an objective incarnation. Also, the tassels on the cap symbolize life energy (hyp hulde). The full symbolism of the top of the headdress: tyrel garalni olon boluuzhan, hyp hyldemni yuumende diildeshegyi badarzha, oroy deeremni hiidezhe yabuuzhag (“Let my family multiply like the rays of the golden sun, let my life energy not run out and flutter over me”). On this occasion, there is a proverb: "Muutulyuurai shenzhe - muhar malgay." The lower band (toirobshi) is a circle sewn from black or dark brown velvet, the more affluent trimmed it with sable and otter fur. Black color is a symbol of the earth (soil), which nourishes all living things.

Thus, 4 elements are concentrated in the headdress: fire, sun, air, water and earth. Vertically, the symbols of the upper world are the sun, the middle one is the mountains, the lower one is the earth. Therefore, hats could not be thrown to the ground, stepped over them, treated carelessly. Performing various rituals associated with offering treats to the spirits of the area, mountains, rivers, when meeting guests or conducting wedding ceremonies, the Buryats always wore hats.

Hats. As we can see, clothing performs many functions: practical, a marker of social status, apotropaic, aesthetic, ethno-differentiating, etc. Headwear performed similar functions. The traditional headdresses of the Buryats, like those of other Mongol-speaking peoples, were a sign of the clan and estate of the owner and were very diverse: by the headdress, and not only by the dialect, they usually determined where a person came from.

Headdresses of Cis-Baikal Buryatshad a fairly strong difference from the headdresses of the inhabitants of Transbaikalia. And if the age-related social differences were emphasized in the hairstyle and jewelry of women (a girl is a married woman), then the headdresses of the Cis-Baikal Buryats reflected this to a lesser extent. In comparison with the eastern Buryats, the headdresses of the Buryats of the Irkutsk region had a less pronounced tribal affiliation. In the literature, researchers note mainly territorial affiliation.

In the Buryat language, the term malgay generically refers to any headdress. Therefore, this term is included in the names of different types of hats.

For Western Buryat women in the 19th - early 20th centuries. The following types of hats were characteristic:

shar malgay (sharovka) is the most archaic version of the headdress. It was a headdress in the form of a knitted cap made of black and red woolen threads with a band. Perhaps it was about her that I. G. Georgi wrote that the women's hats of the Buryats are the same as those of men - "flat Chinese, with a round band and a large tassel." A tulle (band) was knitted from black threads, and a top was made from red threads. Later, they began to cut it out of black cloth, or they kept the red-black color combination. Decorated with round buttons, metal plates, stripes of white beads. By the end of the XIX century. practically disappeared and was replaced by a purchased headdress like a kubanka. Its lighter version (elbogoy) was made of felt. Occurred among the Verkholensk Buryats of Cis-Baikal;

bortogo malgay - a hat of young married women and girls of the Irkutsk region. Used for the cold season. It had a low hard crown (but higher than that of the biizga malgay), 10-12 cm high, cut from a straight piece of fabric and with a flat round top. Sewn from silk, brocade, plush or velvet. Decorated with lace. The band was decorated with patterns of bright silk threads or altan pudaltay. It is interesting to note here that in the dictionary of K.M. Perhaps this headdress got this name because of its appearance, somewhat reminiscent of a basket, or because its crown could previously be strengthened with birch bark, which was a common ornamental material among the Buryats everywhere, but especially among the Alar Buryats. Similar hats were worn by Kalmyk and Mongolian women;

halyuun malgay - a hat of the same cut, cut from otter fur, was worn in winter (lined, with a low fur crown that kept its shape well, and with a soft round flat top made of plush or velvet) or in festive costume complexes. The fur of the otter was distinguished by high wearability, therefore it was very much appreciated. More common among the Bokhan and Osin Buryats;

biizga malgay - a women's hat resembling a skullcap. Used in the warm season. Her crown was also cut from a straight narrow piece of fabric, 6-8 cm wide.