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Brick has long been one of the most popular artificial building materials in our country. Many buildings and structures are made with it, so almost every self-respecting builder must know how to lay bricks. This material is in demand not only as the main one, but is also used to decorate certain elements.

Brick laying tools

At the construction site, bricks are laid in overalls and using construction tools. It is recommended to use tight clothing with long sleeves so that particles of the solution do not get on the body. They can have a negative effect on the skin. Protect your eyes with goggles, and protect your hands easily with thick rubber-based mittens/gloves.

Laying at a height of more than one and a half meters without a special platform or scaffolding will not work, so you need to take care of their construction in advance. They are made from wooden beams and boards.

It is strictly forbidden to build brickwork using a ladder or ladder!

The minimum set of devices and tools will be mandatory:

• trowel / trowel triangular or quadrangular;
• level, it is desirable to have one short up to half a meter and one long at least a meter;
• cord no less than the length of the wall;
• a device for jointing a seam;
• pick for brick trimming;
• plumb;
• roulette;
• square.

In many operations, a trowel is involved. It is convenient for applying cement mortar and for removing its excess. The back of her handle knocks out bricks in a wet mortar.

Preparation of cement slurry

Proper bricklaying is not possible without the preparation of a high-quality aqueous solution of sand and cement. It is customary to take the ratio of bulk solids from 1:4 to 1:6. If there is an inscription 400 on the cement package, then no more than 4 servings of sand are added per serving. In the "five hundredth" mark, it is customary to mix 5 servings.

With manual mixing, it will be more convenient to mix them in a dry form, and then, adding several liters of water, form a slurry from the entire mass. The result is a mixture that can be held in the form of a cake on a trowel, then it is relatively easy to plastically deform when pressed.

When working with hollow material, the penetration of the mortar into the cavity of the brick is not allowed. This can reduce the thermal insulation properties of the building. One specialist should not mix more than 40-50 liters of solution at a time, since at an average consumption a large mass can quickly dehydrate and solidify in a prepared container.

If there will be several people laying a brick wall, then a concrete mixer will help them speed up. Its volume is selected in accordance with the professional capabilities of the involved specialists.

Variety of bricklaying tools

Most often, even walls are laid out of brick with their own hands, less often it is used to form curly structures. Therefore, its most popular form is a bar of standard sizes with smooth edges and right angles. Manufacturers offer two large product groups that differ in composition:

• silicate brick group (based on lime with sand);
• ceramic group (they use baked clay).

Clay-based material is divided into the following types:

• facing (front) brick;
• ordinary (building) material;
• special (heat-resistant).

It is customary to display walls in ordinary blocks, on which it is subsequently supposed to apply a finishing material, for example, a layer of plaster or decorative cladding. The cladding type is prefabricated in a uniform color with a high quality surface. The material has a higher cost and does not imply the presence of additional outer skin.

For facing bricks, a solution is prepared with the addition of color to make the wall look homogeneous

It is customary to lay chimneys, stoves or fireplaces with special blocks. Refractory properties make it possible to form a firebox into one brick, isolating it from external surfaces.

Several types of dimensions are used. The most popular are the single format (250x120x65 mm) and one and a half dimensions (250x120x88 mm). In construction, both solid and hollow blocks are used. The second type works better for thermal insulation.

For reference! How to insulate a brick chimney? For non-residential buildings, asbestos-cement sheets are used. Compared to ordinary plaster, this material has 2.5 times higher thermal insulation properties, condensation does not collect on them and the sheets do not burn. The disadvantage of this method is the release of carcinogens when heated. For residential buildings, it is recommended to use metal sheets, which also prevent fires. To increase thermal insulation, you will need a non-combustible insulation.

VIDEO: Mistakes of beginner masons in brickwork

Varieties of masonry

There are several ways to lay a brick. The thickness of the wall or room partition will depend on this.

Brickwork is a structure made of bricks laid in a certain order and fastened together with mortar.

Traditionally, several techniques are used:

• a quarter of a brick - the beam is installed horizontally with an axis along the wall, relying on the smaller side, while the width of the wall or partition will be a minimum of 65 or 88 mm, depending on the type of material;
• half a brick will provide a wall with a width of 120 mm, which is enough for summer buildings or as a decor for a cinder block wall;
• masonry in one brick is used for external walls, it will be 250 mm;
• a wall width of one and a half bricks will provide better thermal insulation, as it has 340 mm;
• for a two-story building, we lay a wall with a width of at least 510 mm in two bricks.

It is necessary to lay brickwork at a temperature above 5ºС, since at a lower value the mortar may not provide a quality hitch.

Direct masonry procedure

Before laying the brick correctly, it is necessary to wait until the foundation has completely solidified. This will prevent the walls from sagging in certain areas, which can lead to the destruction of the structure. Under the first layer, waterproofing is laid out in the form of a double line of roofing material. It will create a barrier to moisture and will not allow the walls to get wet, absorbing water from the ground.

In the process of building a building, you yourself need to control the horizontal line for laying and the verticality of the corners. In the first case, a stretched cord along the entire wall and a level helps, and in the second, a plumb line is used.

The initial row laid on the foundation sets the tone for the entire wall, so it is important to approach its laying responsibly, avoiding distortions. A mortar is placed between the bricks, which should provide a gap of 5-6 mm. The rows have the same seam of 7-8 mm. It is desirable to control the first rows after each block with the help of a level. It is necessary to apply a small amount of mortar on the sides of the stacked bars.

Before making a wall, it is necessary to mark the corners, bringing them to a height of three or four levels. Vertical seams should not be through; for this, each bar is shifted along the axis relative to the previous row. You can eliminate the bulge (protrusion of the masonry section relative to the entire wall) or depression in advance by applying a level vertically to the front side of the wall.

We put the mortar in place under the laying with a trowel or trowel. It forms a “bed”, and when laying a brick on it with your own hands, there will be a gap of several millimeters. We tap the trowel handle on the upper surface until the block sits at the level measured by the height of the stretched cord. We collect the protruding solution with a trowel from all sides.

It is more convenient to gain mass from a bucket, and have a brick stock nearby. This saves time and effort. Every 4-5 rows we recommend laying a metal mesh to reinforce the layer. This approach minimizes the possibility of shrinkage cracks.

To lay brick corners after the fifth row, use a metal corner. It is fixed at the outside, and then the corner of the brick is brought from the inside until it touches. This ensures verticality.

Before working in dry weather, bricks are often soaked in water so that they are saturated with moisture.

The soaking process takes about an hour and allows you not to quickly draw moisture out of the solution. The hardening of the seam will take place under normal conditions. If there is no time to wait, then it is enough to pour the material with water from a watering can.

VIDEO: How to remove a corner from a brick

Seam selection

There are several types of seams, which are selected based on possible further work with the wall.

• undercut

The mass of the solution is distributed evenly, occupying the entire space between adjacent levels. A smooth and even surface is provided throughout the area. The technique is in demand in the construction of the inner surface of stoves and fireplaces. The lack of relief on the inner surface does not allow soot to accumulate in the seams. Designers rarely use this type for decoration.

• convex/concave

Used exclusively for decorative purposes. A device made using a short tube cut along the axis with a diameter of 8-12 mm helps to provide such a relief. Depending on which side to use it, we get a U-shaped seam.

• Pustoshovka

The mortar is placed on the site in such a way that it does not protrude beyond the boundaries of the brick, providing a technological gap of small depth. A similar relief is necessary for the surfaces left under the plaster. Clinging to the texture, the finish will hold better.

The required number of bricks is calculated according to the table. It is desirable to harvest 10-12% more for the formation of complex corners and joints.

Before you start laying, you need to lay out the first two rows without mortar in order to determine the size. When building walls, do not use trim or leftovers for window and door openings. And the last thing to remember is that the brick must dry before the solution.

VIDEO: How to lay a brick correctly. How to make perfect seams

If you decide to build a brick house yourself, then you should learn how to lay a brick with your own hands. Not a single builder and even an ordinary summer resident can do without this skill now. This is because brick is a universal stone of its kind. Since ancient times, when builders invented the ingenious method of firing, this stone has become the most popular building material in the world. Let's put all the stages of work on the shelves and figure out how to properly lay a brick with your own hands.

Before you start building a brick house on your own, you need to thoroughly study all kinds of brick laying methods.

Solution preparation

To properly bond the bricks together, you will need a sand-cement mortar prepared in a ratio of 5 (sand): 1 (cement).

If the solution is viscous, add clay, lime or even liquid soap to it, then you will give it fluidity.

In order for the brick to hold together qualitatively, the mortar must be prepared in a ratio of 5 (sand) to 1 (cement).

But remember that when laying a hollow building material, such a solution will not work, otherwise it will fill all the voids, thereby worsening the thermal insulation characteristics of the building material.

First, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed, and then water is added in such an amount that a solution of the density you need is obtained. If you have to lay bricks with your own hands alone, then do not rush to knead too much mortar. It is much better if you make a little bit of mortar for each small batch. In this case, the likelihood that the solution will harden or deteriorate is reduced to zero.

Preparing tools for work

The most important tool that you need to lay bricks with your own hands is a trowel. With its help, you apply the mortar to the brick, with its help you pick up the squeezed out excess mortar, and also level the bricks with a trowel handle.

You will also need a grinder or cutting machine (with stone discs) for. If you do not have such devices, then in extreme cases a hammer with a sharpened striker will do, it will also allow you to split bricks fairly evenly.

Using a plumb line and building level, you will check the accuracy of the masonry. After all, laying bricks with your own hands “by eye” is a dangerous business, because the structure can collapse in a couple of years! Do not neglect the building level.

Bricklaying

First of all, you need to take care of the foundation, dig a trench 1.5 by 1.5 meters along the perimeter of the building.

Laying the foundation is pretty easy. Give preference to a columnar design. To properly lay the foundation, you will need to dig a trench measuring 1.5 * 1.5 m around the entire perimeter of the building. Fix metal (or wooden piles). When choosing a support for the foundation, be guided by the estimated size of the house. If you are building a small summer house, then it makes no sense to install huge metal poles under the foundation. They lay out the foundation of red, well-burned brick, in no case use silicate and hollow. This is because the latter will get wet and accumulate moisture in itself.

The trench is covered with sand, carefully compacted, then several layers of waterproofing are laid out and crushed stone is poured. If the soil in your area is sandy, you can completely do without crushed stone, then you just do the brickwork. Try, of course, to lay out the foundation as evenly as possible. But still, according to the builders, laying out the foundation is much easier than the building itself.

Beginning builders are always faced with the problems of removing vertical angles and laying bricks in one line. Let's tackle these problems.

Spend most of your time and attention laying the first row bricks. You can correctly create a guide line using a stretched long cord or rail. A brick is laid with the expectation that a gap of about 3 mm remains between it and the rail (cord), otherwise the cement will put pressure on the guide and distort accuracy. Of course, use the level, not only when laying the first row of bricks, but when laying each individual brick. And check neighboring bricks, avoiding all deviations in the vertical and horizontal planes.

Before you start laying, you need to decide how the front side of the house will look.

Varieties of seam execution

Before laying a wall, you need to know in advance how the front side of the house will be finished. If you want to plaster the facade of the building in the future, then use the method popularly called “into the wasteland”. This method implies the following: when we lay a brick, we do not bring the mortar to the front face of the block, thereby leaving small voids. In the future, the plaster, when flowing into such cracks, will hold much stronger.

If you have to lay bricks in the house (chimney, chimney), then the “undercut” method will suit you. That is, unlike the upper method, the gaps are completely filled with cement. This will avoid the accumulation of soot and dust in the inner surface. Sometimes such embroidery can be used for decorative purposes.

The most common is a convex or concave decorative seam. To achieve the perfect seam, you need to use a stick or tube. For a convex seam, cut the tube and apply it so that the seam takes shape.

Laying out the corners

You need to lay out the corners first. The corners must be higher than the walls. This is done in order to further place the benchmarks and beacons (to pull the cords). Laying out the corners correctly means being half sure that you will accurately lay out the structure, remember this.

Correct order

Ordering is called even metal corners, with which you can bring out the desired right angles. To set the order, you need to place a few bricks using a level. Then you can already fix the order using special brackets and clamps. Check the accuracy of placing the order with a level, if everything is in order, then feel free to pull the mooring cord.

If the length of the wall is relatively small, then instead of the cord, you can use an aluminum profile. This method will provide you with exceptional accuracy when laying bricks horizontally with your own hands.

A few more tips:

• bandage the bricks, do not allow the seams to coincide in adjacent rows;
• for every 5 rows of bricks, lay a reinforcing mesh;
• the rules for laying decorative facing bricks do not differ from the rules for laying ordinary bricks;
• before laying, dip the bricks into the water;

And most importantly - do not rush! The cement mortar hardens for quite a long time, so you have time to fix all the bumps and shortcomings.

Calculate the number of rows and bricks, proceed from the standard brick sizes, that is, 25 * 12 * 6 cm. Take about 10% as a reserve, in case the bricks are damaged during laying (break, break off).

Brick is a multifunctional building stone of artificial origin, with which you can build almost anything. Perhaps this is the most popular building material, without which the improvement of any suburban

Tools and equipment

When laying brickwork, it is necessary to have:

• trowels for applying mortar to bricks;
• hammer-pick, with the help of which products will be hemmed;
• additional tools, which include a cord, plumb line, level, etc.

For laying bricks, an ordinary concrete mortar is used, prepared from cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 5-6. The solution is necessary to strengthen the masonry and glue individual bricks together. Sometimes ordinary washing powder is added there - due to this, plasticity and fluidity increase, but it is forbidden to use it for hollow products, because the solution will flow into the cracks, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the material.

To prepare the mortar, you must first mix dry cement with sand, then dilute with water as needed.

Note! It is undesirable to mix more than 50 liters at a time, since the solution is consumed slowly. It is better to take a small amount of dry mix and dilute it with water.

But if it is planned to carry out a large amount of masonry, and several builders are involved in the work at once, then it is more expedient to use. We also note that it is recommended to use cement of the “three hundredth” or “four hundredth” brand.

Prices for cement and mixture bases

Cement and mixture bases

After preparing the solution, you can start laying directly.

How to lay corners

If you have seen how a professional bricklayer works, then you probably noticed that he starts his work by drawing corners. First, each of the corners should be drawn in turn, while their height should slightly exceed the height of the middle sections of the walls. For this purpose, beacons-benchmarks are used, through which a cord is pulled - it will indicate the height and level of the masonry. It is necessary to pull the cord as tight as possible so that it does not sag during operation. Moreover, it is necessary to periodically re-lay with beacon bricks.

To form rectangular corners, it is necessary to use the so-called ordering - a special device, which is a flat iron square. In order, you can make marks along the laying lines. The first two or three bricks must be laid using the rule, after which the order is established through the staples. To give a vertical position, use a plumb line. According to the marks made in order, a mooring cord is drawn.

Note! Experienced masons do not like to use ordering, preferring to draw angles “by eye” and considering this tool to be the lot of exclusively inexperienced craftsmen. But if you are doing bricklaying for the first time, then you cannot do without ordering.

Video - Laying corners

Types of seams

After laying out the corners in several rows, it is necessary to stretch the cord between them (the corners) and put the solution on. After that, you need to proceed to the main masonry. To understand all the nuances, you need to familiarize yourself with at least the main types of masonry joints.

There are several such seams, the most common of them are listed below.

1. Pustoshovka - the solution in this case does not protrude above the surface of the bricks; there are small gaps that will be used for plastering. The plaster will flow into the gaps between the products, as a result of which it will hold well.
2. Raised seams perform a purely decorative function. For their formation, a piece of a rounded pipe, cut lengthwise, is used.
3. Function of concave seams also purely decorative, but an ordinary, uncut pipe is used for shaping.
4. Undercut the cracks are filled completely and aligned with the surface of the bricks. Such masonry is used mainly for smooth surfaces (fireplaces, chimneys) to avoid soot accumulation, less often as a decorative one.

Main masonry

So, after removing the corners in several rows, you need to proceed to the main masonry. In the future, as the construction of the corners will rise. After the corners are formed, a layer of mortar is applied to the foundation, and a cord is pulled between them. You need to pull it extremely tight to avoid problems with the evenness of the masonry. A mortar is applied to the end of the first brick, after which it (the brick) is placed close to the corner. All subsequent bricks are laid in the same way.

Note! The cord should be pulled exclusively along the upper level of the bricks.

For a tighter fit, more mortar is placed on the walls, after which each brick is tapped with the end of the trowel and aligned with the level of the cord. The solution that came out is selected with a trowel. Of course, if you are doing the masonry for the first time, then the first few rows will have to be shifted in any case, but after two days the work will go faster.

Find out how it is made, as well as familiarize yourself with the choice of materials and styling technology, from our new article.

1. After every five to six rows, a reinforcing mesh is laid.
2. Bricks should be tied up, that is, the coincidence of the seams of adjacent rows should be excluded.
3. Before laying, each brick is immersed in water for better adhesion of the mortar.
4. If you are doing masonry for the first time, then start with primitive buildings (steps, posts, etc.). After such a training stage, it will be easier to lay out more complex structures - a summer kitchen, for example, or a brick barbecue.
5. After preparing the tools and consumables, it is desirable to carry out the so-called dry laying (without the use of mortar) in order to identify possible flaws. If everything is fine, then you can start laying on the solution.
6. For the first experience, the most suitable face brick (it has a smooth side) or chocolate brick (with excellent decorative properties), the dimensions of which are somewhat smaller than usual. Conversely, you can use a rough brick that looks like natural stone.
7. Before proceeding directly to the laying, you need to draw up a detailed plan in which all rows of bricks will be drawn. This will avoid unnecessary costs, because brick is a very expensive material. The dimensions of the brick are as follows: 6.5x12x25 cm. When calculating, you should “throw” about 10% more over the required amount, since the battle is inevitable (especially if the laying is done for the first time).

And remember the main thing - do not rush. First, lay the brick dry, as we have already talked about, then apply the mortar and proceed with the laying, tapping each product with the end of the trowel so that it takes the desired position. The solution that protrudes out must be removed with a trowel and thrown back into the bucket.

You should not rush when working with a solution, because this is not a "Moment", which seizes in a few seconds. You will have enough time to experiment with laying, remove and put the mortar, turn the bricks in one direction or another - in a word, make it perfect. After acquiring the appropriate skills, you will be able to draw the right amount of mortar on the trowel the first time and immediately install the brick in the required place. So the laying procedure will be carried out much faster.

Prices for building bricks

Building brick

Find out, with step-by-step instructions, from our new article.

And as a conclusion - a thematic video.

Video - Proper bricklaying

As a rule, professionals lay bricks, however, having delved into the simple technology of laying bricks on the foundation, you can handle it yourself. It should be taken into account that this hard and difficult work requiring precision and skill.

First brickwork advice- after pouring the foundation, you need to wait at least two days before laying the first brick. In this case, the foundation will get stronger and withstand the weight of the bricks. When doing work, it is important that the rows are even and the corners are properly tied.

The secrets of bricklaying are known to few people - mankind has been fiddling with bricks for five or six thousand years. However, let us remember that "it is not the gods who burn the pots."

Why are bricks laid on the foundation?

Brick laying on the foundation is made for formation of a plinth enclosing the underground space. The stability of the building is significantly increased by the construction of the plinth.

brick plinth

The best material for building a plinth is a red brick. Above the ground level (at a height of 15 cm), special ventilation holes should be provided, which are placed in an amount of at least one for every 3 meters and are covered with a special metal mesh or dampers. The device of the basement is a complex and responsible task. The basement and foundation are the basis of strength, strength, and reliability of the house.

Correct laying of the base

The technology for the correct laying of bricks on the foundation begins with setting the correct angles. The first row is installed without mortar along the width of the base. The level needs to be constantly monitored. You have to measure the sides, making sure that the structure is absolutely even.

The maximum allowable discrepancy is 2 cm, since such an error can still be corrected with subsequent actions.

Having measured the sides, you can mount the base itself using a brick with a solution of sand and cement. Solution we do this: one part of cement, three parts of sand, water in an amount sufficient for a thick, plastic consistency of the solution.

Minimum basement wall width should be 380 mm - with foam insulation, or 500 mm - without insulation. The height of the foundation required for the construction of the basement is 30-40 cm. This height of the base of the house allows you to build a high, beautiful basement, where you can subsequently place a utility room or boiler room.

For the construction of the base, a whole brick, or its halves, is used. It is worth paying special attention to the brick binding of the corners, since they carry the entire load.

How to lay a brick on the foundation

Should be prepared in advance tools:

• trowel (or trowel) for spreading the mortar, removing excess mortar, leveling;
• mason's hammer for splitting bricks into pieces of the desired size;
• a plumb line checks the verticality of the masonry;
• the cord helps to lay out rows in straight lines, to observe one height indicator;
• ordering marks the rows according to the thickness of the seam and brick;
• a wooden rule checks the quality of the outer surface;
• shovel;
• container for mixing the solution (or concrete mixer).

First we lay the roofing material for insulation cleaned foundation from moisture. You can go two ways.

First way- completely lay out the first row, and then the corners. In this case, the angle should always be a few bricks above the walls. We check the observance of the straightness of the corners, the verticality of the masonry with a level, a square, a plumb line.

Second way consists in the initial removal of all corners, after which the walls are laid. Angles are checked using the same tools. You need to correct irregularities by tapping on incorrectly lying bricks with a hammer. The stage ends with tying a cord for a guide in the corners. Now you can start the main part of the work.

Masonry technology is simple:

• lay out and level with a trowel the width of the mortar to one and a half centimeters;
• lay the brick, slightly pressing it down to evenly distribute the binder mixture;
• gently tapping with a hammer, align the stone, observing the line indicated by the cord;
• collect excess mortar with a trowel, fill the vertical seam between two bricks.

Some experienced builders pre-apply a small amount of bonding mixture to the side face of the brick to bond with the adjacent one.

Must always be remembered about control over verticality, straightness of lines and thickness of seams.

Leveling the foundation with brickwork

The load-bearing walls of the building rest on the foundation. The secret of a structure's stability lies in the evenness of each of its four surfaces. To align the bottom plane of the foundation, you will need such tools:

• shovel;
• construction plumb;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• capacity for cement mortar;
• Master OK.

The creation of a perfectly flat lower plane of the foundation masonry at the bottom of the trench begins with the construction of a sand cushion. The lower plane is not visible, but its irregularities can lead to problems in the operation of the building. It will not be possible to align the uneven lower plane later, it is necessary to immediately make it perfectly even.

Qualitatively manufactured formwork allows you to get smooth inner and outer surfaces. However, there are times when the foundation does not turn out to be even, despite the fulfillment of all the rules for the formwork.

How to level the foundation with a brick? Methods for leveling the surface of the base

1. Installing a new formwork and pouring concrete mortar allows you to cope with significant surface irregularities.
2. Brick lining is relevant for eliminating minor defects in the base.
3. Close-fitting with mesh netting, fixed with a thick layer of plaster.
4. Covering with a layer of additional thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool) hides small irregularities.

Methods for leveling the upper plane of the foundation

More often, it is the upper plane of the base that sins with unevenness. Since walls are built from it, perfect evenness is required. To obtain a smooth surface, constantly use a water level. The hydraulic level checks, first of all, the corners, then the perimeter of the base. It should be remembered that only a bubble-free water level gives correct measurements. Finishing the masonry, a liquid cement mortar should be used, which will level the surface over the entire area.

You can correct a small difference, for example, 2 cm, relative to zero with brickwork if you change the thickness of the horizontal seam. SNiP sets standards to the thickness of the horizontal seam - the maximum value should not exceed 12 mm, with a tolerance of +3, -2 mm. A deviation of up to 15 mm from the horizontal per 10 m of masonry is allowed. Such a deviation is eliminated by laying the next row of bricks.

Correction of the foundation of an already finished building- a complex procedure that requires the intervention of qualified specialists. In this case, it is better not to take risks and turn to professionals.

The strength of the walls of a brick building directly depends not only on the quality of the building material, which includes brick and cement mortar, but also on the weather conditions during which the walls are being built. And the most important condition for this kind of construction work is the professionalism of a bricklayer who knows firsthand how to lay bricks correctly.

At first glance, it may seem that there is no option other than just laying the brick evenly, that it is simply impossible to place it crookedly, after all, the brick has the shape of a rectangle and therefore, laying it in rows, you can achieve a perfectly even wall. But this is a completely wrong assumption.

In order to properly lay a brick wall, the following requirements must be met:

• follow the same amount of mortar applied under the brick, otherwise it will be difficult to achieve a smooth edge of the outer row of masonry;
• the brick placed on the prepared work surface must lie parallel to the row, as a result of which its outer side will coincide with the plane of the brickwork, that is, it will be oriented along three axes of rotation;
• observe three basic rules: the correct linear position of the brick, the same masonry height with other rows, a snug fit to the adjacent brick.

But even if these requirements are met, if there is no experience as a bricklayer, then nothing may work right away. In this case, in this article we present information on how to learn how to lay a brick yourself.

In order to properly organize the workflow for laying bricks, in addition to building material, you must have a whole set of special tools and fixtures.

Required Tools

1. Mortar or mixture for laying bricks (we will talk about the composition of the mortar and the method of preparation below);
2. Bricks (building material);
3. Construction wheelbarrow (required for easy delivery of bricks from the storage site to the working area);
4. A trowel or trowel (using this tool, a solution is laid out on the working surface of the brick and excess mixture is removed);
5. Construction glasses (used to protect the eyes from mechanical damage and dust);
6. Carpenter's square (for connecting the corner parts of the brickwork);
7. Level (it will help to evenly lay out both the first layer of masonry and subsequent ones);
8. Hammer-pick (designed for splitting bricks);
9. Roulette (for linear measurements during work);
10. Chalked cord (will help determine the brick laying line);
11. Mason's cord (allows you to create straight lines of horizontal rows of brickwork).

Solution preparation

It is not difficult to prepare a mortar for laying bricks. It consists of cement and sand, the optimal ratio between the components is 1:5, that is, we take one part of cement and five parts of sand. Sometimes clay or lime is added to the mixture to give plasticity.

At the first stage of preparing the mortar, it is necessary to mix dry cement and sand, take the finished mixture in small parts and combine with water, mixing thoroughly. This will avoid hardening of an overly prepared mortar and, accordingly, save on the purchase of an additional batch of cement.

To save the mortar, it is better not to use a “hollow” brick, since most of the mixture will go into the hole and the mortar will not be enough to fix the brick. You can read more about preparing a mortar for masonry.

Currently, when building houses or summer cottages, not everyone resorts to the help of professional builders. Someone is limited in finances, someone wants to fulfill one of the three rules of life, which says that a real man must "build a house, plant a tree, raise a son." It is for such people that the next section of our article is intended.

DIY brickwork technology

If, nevertheless, there was a decision to build a brick house on your own, then you need to know how to properly lay a brick wall. If a certain number of requirements are not met, it may turn out that the design will be unreliable. And the first rule says that bricklaying should be started only after the foundation has completely solidified, otherwise, the wall can lead to one side and all the work will be in vain.

• In order to have no doubts about the correctness of the start of construction work, you need to watch the video on our website, which will tell you in detail how to learn how to lay a brick.

• Getting started laying out the first layer of bricks, it is necessary to put on the foundation, rolled up in two layers, roofing material. You should first decide how the wall will be built: one brick, one and a half or two bricks.

• It is easy to guess that if the first row of bricks goes crooked, then all subsequent ones will be the same. That's why special construction tools must be used, which will help to correctly and evenly carry out the laying of bricks.

• The next requirement in the series is how to lay a brick wall correctly. is as follows, it is necessary to strictly observe the gap between the bricks, which must be at least 3 cm. This is necessary so that the mortar is evenly distributed between them during laying.
• Necessary with enviable frequency check the direction of horizontal and vertical laying with a building level.

• From the correct layout of the corners of the structure 50% of the success of all work depends. Before you start laying bricks, you first need to lay out the corners in several rows. It is very important to carry out the work using a horizontal and vertical level, since it depends on the angles how evenly the walls will be laid out. And throughout the work it is necessary that the corners are two rows higher than the main walls.

• If plastering is planned in the future erected brick walls, then it is necessary to use the "wasteland" method. It consists in distributing a certain volume of mortar between the bricks so that it does not fill the gaps between them.

• Laying out the chimney, it is necessary to ensure that the empty spaces between the bricks are completely filled with mortar. This is necessary so that soot does not settle in the pipe. Fully filled joints are also used for facing laying.

brick ordering

• To create truly even and right angles construction, you will need "ordering", which is metal corners that help determine the accuracy of laying. To fix the order at the corner, special brackets are used, which ensure the accuracy of the structure.

• Ensure even stacking of bricks in rows special construction tools such as a level, a bricklayer's cord, a tape measure, a chalked cord will help. And they should not be neglected.

If at some point during independent construction work there were questions regarding the correct laying of bricks, then the video presented on our website will help you figure it out.

• When laying brick walls, it is necessary to ensure that the seams in other rows do not match, otherwise the wall will lose its stability and fall apart under the influence of force.
• It is necessary to approach construction with special care and before laying a brick wall, it is best to draw a work plan, which will indicate the required number of bricks and the number of rows laid out.
• If there is no practice in laying out facing bricks, but such a need arose, then you can resort to the traditional laying of ordinary building bricks - the result will be the same. The facing brick differs from the usual one only in its more aesthetic appearance and its purpose. If you still have doubts, then the laying of facing bricks is shown on our website in a step-by-step video, after watching which you can easily complete your plan.
• When calculating the required amount of bricks, you need to add 10% of the total volume to the resulting number, this is necessary because about a tenth of the bricks break during laying.
• In order for the mortar and brick to have the highest degree of adhesion, it is necessary to moisten the brick in a container with water before laying on the mortar.
• To properly learn how to lay brickwork, patience is needed and haste is inappropriate here. The mortar does not dry immediately, so if necessary, you can correct some shortcomings in the work.

If, after reading the article, you still do not have confidence that you can lay out a brick wall yourself, we can advise you to watch a video on how to lay brickwork. The video clearly and in detail will show all the stages of work.

May the walls of your house always be strong and reliable!