How to assemble prefabricated models. What tools do you need to build your first model? And beautiful models

You will need

- a set of parts for assembly;
- a sharp knife;
- sandpaper;
- files;
- scotch;
- glue model;
- PVA glue;
- brushes for glue and paint;
- airbrush;
- acrylic paints.

Instruction

Purchase the model you are interested in. Today on sale you can find a wide variety of kits for assembling copies of different periods. They may differ in configuration and readiness for assembly, so read the product packaging carefully before making your final choice.

Prepare the tools you will need to assemble the model. Buy model glue, as well as PVA glue. When processing parts, you can not do without a sharp knife, needle files and sandpaper. To paint the finished model, purchase brushes of different sizes and hardness. An airbrush would also help.

Take out the contents and inspect them carefully. Such a preliminary acquaintance with the design will allow you to get an idea of the types and number of parts to be assembled. Usually, the details of the model are assembled into flat blocks connected by sprues, and the blocks are completed not at random, but in a certain sequence.

Determine the assembly sequence, referring to the instructions and a visual representation of the model. Use the images of the prototype available to you to draw up the image of the product on the box (they can be found in historical literature or on the Internet).

Select sprues to which the main body parts of the model are attached. For example, for an airplane model, this would be the fuselage and wings. Disconnect the parts from the block with a knife, and then carefully clean the sprue attachment points.

Fold the body halves together. Do not rush to glue the parts; First, connect them with pieces of tape. It is also not recommended to immediately disconnect all the parts from the sprues, because in this case it will be difficult to determine the belonging of the part and its place in the model. Perform assembly in sequence.

Attach to the body in turn all the main structural elements, attaching them with tape or using specially provided pins. When the model takes on a finished look, carefully inspect it again, remembering the relative position of the parts and, if necessary, recording the assembly sequence.

Disassemble the model and proceed to the final assembly, connecting the elements with glue. Continue to attach the next part only after the adhesive has dried. Do not set yourself the goal of completing the assembly in a short time. If necessary, break the process into several stages, for example: cleaning parts, assembling the hull, fine-tuning the model, painting.

After the complete assembly of the plastic model, proceed to painting it. In this case, first check the instructions and the image of the original. In some cases, the model will need to be coated with a primer before applying the paint. If this is required to give the model authenticity, apply camouflage coloring of the hull. After the paint has dried, the model can take its place in your home collection.

Plastic models of tanks appeared in the late 50s and from that moment began to gain popularity. These models of tanks were produced throughout the entire period of the war and underwent various changes. In general, interest in armored vehicles is caused by interest in history Second World War. Now there is everything you need for modeling, in every specialized store, where you can find everything you need to assemble a model of a tank or other armored vehicle that interests you. There are whole clubs that are engaged in tank modeling, they teach, show how to assemble models of various types of equipment. How to do this and what you need for this you can find on our website, to get acquainted with the assembly, you can read this article.

How to assemble a tank model?

Step 1. Choose and buy a model for assembly

We offer the following options:

The assembly model of the T-72 tank, which is issued in the "Magazine" format by subscription (here, and here the full one), you will receive the details in the parcel. Includes: instructions, magazine with history and illustrations, parts (in a separate bag) and various bonuses from the DeAgostini company.

Step 2. We select the tool and consumables

For assembly you will need:

- A set of parts for assembly
- Sharp Knife
- Sandpaper
- Needle files
- Scotch
- Model glue
- PVA glue
- Brushes for glue and paint
- Airbrush
- Acrylic paints

What to do next?

We have already bought the parts to assemble the tank, then we will move on to choosing a knife, it should be sharp and small for your convenience. Sandpaper is enough to take the size "0" (see "zero") and "1", you will also need needle files of various sizes. Do you have a question, what glue is better to buy? You will need both model and PVA glue, you will need both of these glues when assembling. Brushes for glue and paint also need to be purchased in different sizes from small to medium, it is advisable to purchase all the brushes from the same company (but this is not critical). We advise you to purchase acrylic paints. they are the most dense and fit well enough on the surface of the tank. You can select colors by eye or using color codes (but as a rule, for beginners, enough by eye).

How to make a tank model?

The main rule of the modeller: "Do not be lazy and read the instructions before assembling."

First you need to separate the parts from the sprue (what the parts are attached to in the package), then we can start assembling the model itself. Assembly will begin with the assembly of the hull bath, which consists of sides, upper and lower bases. After assembling the tub, you will need to attach all suspension arms and balancers. The question arises, how to glue these parts? Gluing is carried out as follows: Glue is evenly applied to each part with a brush and glued to the bath. While the hull bath dries, we will begin gluing the hull tower. The tower consists of the base itself and the cannon, so we just need to glue these two parts, after which we can start painting.

How to paint a tank model?

Details before painting should be cleaned and degreased, this can be done with ordinary alcohol (but we recommend White Spirit). Next, apply a thin layer of paint. Before painting, open the instructions or inserts with the model, where there will be a color photograph or reproduction in color. Use brushes of various thicknesses to emphasize certain elements of the tank, i.e. for small areas or high detail - a thin pile, and for solid or large parts - with a wide pile. We have a sufficient number of brushes, so do not be afraid to take a new brush if you need to change the color. After painting your model is ready, you can enjoy the work done.

Tip: Be sure to clean your brushes after completing the painting step. Because dried paint will interfere with painting (for example, you can soak it in a glass of water).

On our website you can find the models you are interested in, also if you have any questions during the assembly process, you can always find assembly and painting instructions, you can also find the missing or necessary tool on our website. We have everything you need to assemble a tank or any other model. Our site also offers prefabricated models of the T-72 series tank, the assembly of which will give you a lot of pleasure.

To assemble the model, the actual model and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model with high quality, you will need a lot of tools, tools, mainly inexpensive ones - a model knife. tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.

Model knives and cutters

The most important of all tools is a good knife. A knife with a narrow blade is more suitable for working with model aircraft. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade in the process. In the role of a knife, a surgical scalpel has proven itself well.

Skin

To clean the assembled model, you will need at least two types of skins: with a larger grain for initial processing and very fine for finishing. It is advisable to use a waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn plastic. Water-resistant sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash off plastic filings.

Glue

The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It does not hurt to have a special glue for connecting transparent parts.

putty

Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all kinds of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.

masking tape

Masking tape is widely used in the assembly of models. It can not only protect surfaces during painting or puttying, but also fasten parts during gluing. It is advisable to use as thin a tape as possible.

Dye

A wide variety of model paints are available, from miter to water-based acrylics. Finishing is best done with acrylic or oil art paint. In the latter case, the finished model must be blown out with semi-matt varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint gives a matte finish, while the aircraft model should have a slight sheen.

brushes

For painting, you will need three brushes: thin, medium size and large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. Brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried after use.

Brush "Revell", marten, №4/0

Brush "Revell", №2

A properly organized workplace is a big deal. It is best to have a separate large table for modeling, but you can also work on the kitchen when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice the defects of the models.

Instrument location

The entire tool must be placed neatly and at the same time so. to have it at hand. There is nothing worse than looking for a missing knife during the assembly process.

File and KP

Separated small parts are well stored in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not be lost. For files, it does not hurt to start an album.

Tweezers

In the kit of the combined model there will always be parts that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeler. Tweezers are indispensable in this case. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.

Airbrush and compressor

Without an airbrush and a compressor, the vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the process of painting. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to do modeling more or less seriously. The airbrush and compressor will require the largest financial outlay, cut off from the family budget. Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the last - the most important !!!). It is generally accepted that painting with an airbrush is easier than with a brush. The question is debatable, however, in any case, the result of painting with an airbrush, all other things being equal (experience of the modeller), is superior to the result of working with a brush. In addition, a number of camouflage schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) during the Second World War can only be done with an airbrush.

Knife set

One model knife is sometimes not enough, it is better to get three: with a sharp, cut and rounded blades.

And you definitely need spare blades for a model knife. You can buy them in the tool store or on Aliexpress: .

"Extra Hands"

Small metal clips "alligators" help a lot in the work. Used by radio installers. They are good at holding small parts when gluing and painting.

When assembling and especially when finalizing a model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro-drill and a set of small diameter drills. The drill can also be used to process the surface of the model using different nozzles.

wire cutters

Separate parts from frames, bite off flash, etc. best of all with small side cutters, borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.

file

The model with cut control surfaces looks much more realistic than the one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by the linework. It is best to cut with a miniature saw. made from a razor blade.

Hole puncher

Hole punches of different diameters are useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, the Japanese circles of the “rising sun”. Painted identification marks are preferred over decals.

It is hardly possible to list all the tools necessary for assembling the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.

We buy a model

We have acquired a tool, now you can choose a model. At first, the wisest decision is to stop at something simple, for example, one of the single-engine fighters of the Second World War period: the North Amerpyun P-51 Mustang, the Mitsubishi Zero, or the R-public P-47 Thunderbolt. By assembling these models, you can acquire basic assembly and painting skills.

The models of these aircraft are relatively simple. Both in the 48th and 72nd scales they contain not so many details. For the most part, that Thunderbolt. that the Mustang and the Zero were painted in only two colors - a plain top and a plain bottom. It is better to start with the 72nd scale, if only because of its cheapness compared to the 48th. If you have no experience, then why ruin an expensive model when you can ruin a cheap one?

After assembling several single-engine propeller monoplanes, you can proceed to experiments on multi-engine machines, “jets”, biplanes, as well as “whales” in 1:48 scale and above (if you have a desire and there is a separate apartment for finished models).

Examination

Having received a model from the seller, do not rush to thank him. Open the box and make sure that all parts, decals, and especially the cockpit canopy, stated in the instructions, are present. It would be useful to compare the casting with the aircraft declared on the box. Manufacturers from China can manage to put a Messerschmitt in a Spitfire box. not to mention the replacement of Bf.109E with Bf.l09G. Check the quality of the castings - there are underfills.

If you find the complete match of the kit - thank the seller and run home to collect the model. At home, select the necessary tools and carefully lay them out on the desktop. You can move on to the next step.

Studying instructions

You will probably start studying the instructions along the way. This is by no means forbidden (but not welcome either - you can get hit by a car). Evaluate the instruction from a critical point of view. Its author has his own view on the model assembly process, you may have your own. Sometimes it makes sense to change the build order. However. do not rush to scold the author if you did not like something. Try to delve into the ideas that led the technologist to this particular assembly order. Maybe he is right, not you?

Check for lice

The overall quality of the model is fairly easy to check. Separate several large parts (halves of the fuselage or wing planes) and attach them to each other. If it worked out easily and without displacement, then you bought the Thing. If not, stock up on putty, sandpaper and patience. Cut off parts, so as not to lose, it is recommended to keep in a special box. Parts should be separated from the sprues with a knife or side cutters, but in no case should they be broken off. If necessary, the places where the parts are attached to the frames should be cleaned after separation.

Fuselage assembly

So, you have examined the model. The euphoria has passed, you can get down to business. Let's start with the fuselage.

Parts cleaning

On the castings, there may be traces of mold lubricant, and other grease stains, they should be removed. Immerse the sprue or already cut parts for ten minutes in warm water, then thoroughly scrub them with soap with an old toothbrush. Rinse in running water and leave to dry.

Cleanup

After the parts are dry, clean the flat surfaces with a large piece of sandpaper, go over the sandpaper with the ends of the fuselage halves. The operation has two goals - to remove possible large irregularities, and to make the place of gluing the halves absolutely flat, removing traces of the pusher (if any), and slightly rough for better adhesive adhesion. Clean also the places where parts are attached to the sprues.

It happens that one of the halves of the fuselage is molded with protruding parts, for example, with the tail landing gear. There are two ways. The first is to cut the part and glue it after the fuselage is assembled. The second way is to take a small wooden block, wrap it with sandpaper and process the end of the fuselage rugs, sanding especially carefully in the area of the protruding part. At the very detail, it is best to scrape not with a sandpaper, but with a half of a razor blade. Remove the burr with a model knife. In addition to the factory, a small “flash” may appear when sanding. Some plastics peel off. Pay attention to the flash not only at the ends, but also in the area of the cutout for the pilot's cabin lamp, in the air intake hole, in the places where the stabilizers and wing planes are glued. Remember: when a defect “comes out” during painting (and it will definitely “appear”), it will be too late to correct it.

Lantern fitting

Fold the fuselage halves. They should fit together perfectly. If necessary, repeat the stripping of the halves on the skin. Attach a flashlight to the folded fuselage (as long as it can be fastened with rubber bands). The lantern, again, should fit perfectly "in place". Otherwise, carefully sand it to fit the fuselage. There are "deadly" options - the lantern is thicker than the fuselage. Well - with-skinned plexiglass, then run to the store for the GOI infusion. With GOI paste, it is quite possible to restore the transparency of the lantern to a more than acceptable level.

Modern modellers use Future Floor Finish (Floor Wax)- American liquid for polishing floors. Adds transparency and shine to transparent decals.

It is much worse if a gap is formed between the canopy and the fuselage, and the top of the canopy fits perfectly into the rear of the fuselage. Such a defect is “treated” with putty. The trouble lies in the color of the putty - white or light gray. The interior of the cabin has a completely different color. Painting the putty from the inside with a glued lantern is a more difficult task than assembling a ship model in a bottle. The process is elementary only in one case - when there is a huge cutout for the center section at the bottom of the fuselage.

Cab Interior Customization

It is time to separate the elements of the cabin interior from the sprues: dashboard, floor, rear wall. Fit the parts in place by grinding and inserting them into the fuselage halves. Often the floor and dashboard are too wide for the glued fuselage halves. On some models, the cockpit side panels are molded integrally with the fuselage halves, on some models, the cockpit floor, together with the side panels, forms a kind of bathroom. The bathroom is also often wider than necessary. Get it in place.

Now cut off small details of the cabin interior from the sprues - the control knob. pedals, pilot seat. Clean them up and put them in a box so you don't lose them.

Cabin interior painting

Sometimes, in the process of building a model, it is necessary to paint individual parts or subassemblies, the cabin in particular. Small parts should be prepared for assembly and painting in the same way as large ones: removal of breakage, traces of pushers, cleaning of molding seams, washing, drying and degreasing.

Pay attention to the selection of paints for the interior of the cabin. Group the parts by color. Details that are painted in different colors are conveniently clamped in "crocodiles". Make sure that the alligator's "teeth" grip the parts securely - a jet of compressed air is quite capable of sweeping a loose part. First of all, the cabin itself is painted in the base color (most often these are the inner sides of the fuselage halves). After the base tone has completely dried, proceed to “painting” with a brush the elements of the “decoration” of the cabin: radio stations, trimmer controls, oxygen supply tap, etc. Most often, these elements are painted black, but other colors are also found.

Before assembly, it is also worth painting the visible inner surfaces of the air intakes and engine cylinders.

Dashboard trim

The easiest way is to transfer the enclosed decal to the dashboard. Almost all models are equipped with such decals, and almost all decals correspond to the realities by 20-30 percent at best. Much more realism is possible by painting the dashboard with a brush with water-based or oil-based paints. It is necessary to paint the dashboard in the base color even when using decals. It is easier to paint dashboards on which individual instruments are simulated during casting, especially if the base color of the board, as on the Mustang or Zero, is black. The part is completely painted with matte black paint, then the edges of the devices are outlined with a lead pencil. In conclusion, a drop of liquid glass or at the worst end of colorless nail polish is poured onto the scale of the device; after drying, the varnishes or glass are slightly polished.

The instrument panel of the Thunderbolt was painted black, the instrument scales were painted white. Again, you will have to start by painting the dashboard in matte black. After complete drying, a drop of white paint is applied to the center of the imitation of the scale of the device and “smeared” to the edges of the device. After drying - varnish or glass plus polishing.

The next step towards realism is the imitation of the instrument scales themselves. This work requires experience and accuracy. Scales are drawn with a thin brush.

Cabin interior assembly

After painting the cabin interior elements, you can start assembling. Provided that the parts are pre-fitted, it should not cause difficulties. Contact points should be cleaned of paint. It is best to connect parts with liquid glue, using the capillary effect known from the physics course. Two parts are pressed tightly against each other, a drop of liquid glue is applied to the joint. A drop will fill the smallest pores of the joint and the connection will turn out to be both strong and neat. When gluing, it is important that the glue does not get on the painted surfaces, especially on the dashboard - painstaking work will go down the drain.

It is most convenient when the interior of the cabin is made in the form of a "bath", as in the Thunderbolt model. The bath is assembled separately from the fuselage and must dry at least overnight after gluing. With the first rays of the rising sun, you can try on the assembled module to the fuselage. If the module fits, glue it to one half of the fuselage and lie down to fill up. If not, adjust with a familiar method of sanding, cutting and undermining excess plastic. After gluing the “bath” and lightly setting the glue, make a final check - put the fuselage halves together again, one of which has already glued the cockpit.

Assembly of the fuselage halves

Usually, the manual recommends applying glue to the mating surfaces of the fuselage halves. Most do just that, but in this case, there is a high probability of uncontrolled extrusion of excess glue on the outer surfaces of the assembly. It is better to use the already familiar capillary effect: fold the halves and smear them along the contour with liquid glue, apply the glue carefully with a brush. True, in this case there are some pitfalls: adhesives can easily get on the fingertips, and the latter leave hard-to-remove prints on the surface of the fuselage. Try to keep the fuselage away from the seam with your fingers when applying the adhesive. The glued halves should be clamped with something (rubber bands, clothespins) and left to dry.

After a few hours of drying, it is necessary to flush the adhesive seam, having previously protected the cockpit from sawdust with adhesive tape. Sometimes the seam has to be puttied. The putty should also be allowed to dry well. The seam is cleaned with skins of different grain sizes (from medium to fine).

The first step in assembling the aircraft model has been made. You can smile proudly, proud of your achievement.

Add a wing and plumage

It makes sense to start with the tail: until the wing is glued to the stabilizer and the rudders are easy to rise.

Correction of defects of the brutal tail

On most small-scale Mustang, Thunderbolt and Zero fighter models, the halves of the stabilizer are cast in one piece (top and bottom together). Most of the time they are defect free. If there are defects, then it is recommended to apply "hot cleaning".

Heat the water to a boil and lower the part with an unnecessary bend into it for a few seconds. Remove the part until it has cooled straighten it. Repeat the operation (heating-bending) until the defect disappears.

Thinner parts require less heat. All surfaces of the tail unit have fairly thin leading and trailing edges, if you eliminate the defect by bathing in hot water, you can easily damage the edges. It is desirable to bend only thick tea "stabilizer.

Prepare the halves of the stabilizer for gluing - sanding, washing, drying, degreasing.

Fitting surfaces of plumage

Insert half of the stabilizer into the fuselage. As a rule, the junction even on good models requires adjustment. The gap will have to be puttied after gluing, but for now it is necessary to assess how accurately the surface of the stabilizer fits the fuselage sagging. If the bead is thicker, then it must be adjusted to the profile of the stabilizer, if the stabilizer is thicker, then it would probably be better to increase the bead profile with putty after gluing the half of the stabilizer.

Alignment and attachment of tail surfaces

Now that you have fitted the tail assembly in place, you can start gluing it. If a rudder is given separately, then start with it. Apply maple to the docking surfaces and press the rudder against the fuselage. In most cases, the rudder is glued on as if it were in the neutral position, so be sure to look at the front, rear, and top of the model several times to make sure the rudder is in the correct position.

After the adhesive seam of the rudder and fuselage has hardened, you can proceed to attaching the horizontal halves. Each half must be glued strictly at right angles to the plane of symmetry of the fuselage. By eye, the correctness of gluing the stabilizer is best checked by examining the assembly strictly from behind with a turn of 90 degrees. In this case, the stabilizer occupies a vertical position and it is easier to mentally compare the relative position of its halves, the halves must be on the same axis. Having set right angles, fix the halves of the stabilizer with something (for example, masking tape) until the glue dries completely.

Wing

The wing planes are sometimes given in two halves, the upper and lower, sometimes the right and left upper parts and the common lower for the right and left planes, there are also wing planes cast in one piece. Problems that can arise with a wing are akin to a stabilizer problem.

Alignment and gluing of the rigid wing

Rigid wing defects are eliminated by the already familiar “heat-bending” method. Then the plane is adjusted to the center section. When gluing planes, the angle of the transverse "V" and the installation angle of attack should be controlled. It is important to maintain the same angles of attack and "V" for both planes. Even small discrepancies in the angles of the planes will be clearly visible on the assembled model. The uniformity of the transverse angle is conveniently controlled by the width of the slots between the planes and the center section. Gluing planes. Check the installation angles and fix the position of the wing with masking tape or tape. After the glue has hardened, the cracks are puttied and sanded. It is extremely inconvenient to work with emery at the junction of the plane and the fuselage, moreover, the paneling is almost always damaged during work. However, there's nothing to be done, not to leave gaps. It is quite possible to restore the stitching with the proper skill.

Alignment and gluing of the wing planes from two halves

The first step is to grind the ends of the halves of the planes on the skin, a similar operation has already been done with the halves of the fuselage. Let's put the halves of one plane and carefully examine. Ideally, the ends of the halves, their ends and the lines of the jointing should converge. In practice, you usually have to remember the saying “pulled out the tail - the nose got stuck. After combining the highlanders, one of the endings “leaves” somewhere, the lines of the jointing do not match. It is best to take as a starting point when gluing the coincidence of the lines of the jointing of the upper and lower halves. Preparation for gluing is carried out as usual. The halves are folded again and fixed with narrow strips of camouflage data. Bonding occurs due to the work of the capillary effect - but the perimeter of the plane is passed with a brush with liquid glue. After which the adhesive has set, the fixing strips are removed, and glue is dripped onto those joints that they covered. While one plane dries, you can do the second. Finishing surfaces and, especially, the edges of the plane is carried out only after the adhesive has completely dried. The assembled planes are glued to the fuselage as well as the whole halves. Once again, it does not hurt to remind: control the installation angles, first of all - the angle of the transverse “V”.

Aligning and gluing a three-part wing

The process of assembling a wing from three parts (two upper halves of the planes and one lower, cast in one piece with the lower surface of the center section) will be different than assembling wings from four and two parts.

Prepare the parts for gluing as usual. Reinstall the lower part of the wing and secure it with masking tape. Check installation angles. Then attach the upper ladles of the planes in place and also fix them with adhesive tape (the same problems may arise here as when joining the upper and lower halves of the wing of four parts: mismatching of the tips and joint lines). Check the cross "V" again. If you need to reduce the angle, insert spacers made of thin plastic of the same thickness into the slots between the fuselage and the upper halves. Glue the lower wing piece to the fuselage. After drying, once again check the transverse “V” and the correct fit of the upper halves of the planes. If everything is fine - make the capillary effect work for the good deed of gluing the upper halves with the lower part. After setting the main adhesive seam, remove the adhesive tape, coat with glue the joints previously covered with masking tape.

The assembly must be completely dry before sanding and sanding. Sanding the edges of the wing and the junction of the planes with the center section completes an important step in the assembly of the model. Now the model already looks like an airplane.

What should I start with? I think for a start it is worth understanding the main factors of fast and at the same time high-quality assembly.

For assembly, you should choose a high-quality model with good docking and detailing out of the box.
You need to use the right chemistry, with a short drying time.
It is necessary to start the assembly with a clear understanding of the amount of work and alterations, so as not to get bogged down in a lot of improvements, often made “for the soul”, but little noticeable on the final result.
It is important to follow the assembly sequence, breaking the model into subassemblies, so that in the process you do not have to constantly deal with different things.

Let's dwell on each of the points in more detail.

If you want to quickly build a model, you should not take something complex or of poor quality for assembly. A large number of parts or the need to process every detail and joint will nullify all attempts to quickly get the finished result. So no ships, BTTs with super-details, LND models and budget sets of vehicles from the ARC, VE and others.

But this does not mean that the choice of models will be small. New models from , various models from - all this can be taken for quick assembly. The scale can be anything, except perhaps all sorts of large scales, like 1/32 for aviation or 1/16 for BTT - not the best choice) for example, in a couple of days off, you can safely build an excellent Yak-3 in 1/48 or a new T-34/85 in 1/35 or 1/72 of Zvezda, I-16 or Yak-52 in 1/48 of the ARC, almost any model from Tamiya in 1/35 or 1/48, etc. The main thing is that the model does not have a lot of details, there was a good fit and good detailing. There are many such models on the market today. And to understand what is in the box, it is best to use the search on the net and look at the reviews on the model and its construction.

IL-2 from Tamiya in 1/48 scale assembled in three days of work in the evenings

The basis of a qualitative result is the right choice of chemistry. So that the construction of the model is not interrupted by a long wait for the glue, putty and paint to dry, you need to choose the right consumables.

The usual model glue, which is ordinary, which dries pretty quickly. But such glue dries completely for a long time, and the seams glued with it between large parts can easily shrink over time, which is critical when assembling the model quickly. So it is worth using such glue where the seam passes through the real joint of the parts and does not require sealing. Well, for attaching various small parts.

Tamiya's Super Liquid Glue is the best choice for working on most small to medium parts.

For docking and at the same time for sealing seams on large parts, it is best suited. And - with In this case, the glue will serve as both glue and putty. And the activator will allow you to achieve instant drying of the glue, which also does not shrink. That is, 30 seconds after gluing, the part can already be safely processed, sanded, etc. Of course, when working with such glue, it is worth considering the fact that it glues the parts instantly, and when it dries, it becomes harder than plastic and requires sanding from 600 numbers.

It is also convenient to glue various small parts that require accurate and fast positioning on super glue with an activator.

Cyanoacrylate glue - the best glue and putty for quick assembly

There will also be a place. Applied in a thin layer, it dries in about 30 minutes and allows you to edit small surface jambs, for example, scratches, small cavities on super glue, etc. Shrinkage is not terrible here, because the layer will be thin.

Tamiya's White Finish Putty is a good choice for quickly fixing small blemishes on the model's surface.

When assembling the IL-2 model, the fuselage was glued with super glue, and small flaws along the junction of its halves were filled with white putty from Tamiya

It is also better not to refuse the use of a primer. Habitual model primers dry out “tack free” in 10-15 minutes and after half an hour you can safely paint over them. And to show the surface of the model before painting and improve the adhesion of the paint will never be superfluous. Nitro primer from or Hansa would be the best choice.

Primer from Tamiya is a good choice in any, including fast construction

But the paint is best to choose acrylic, water-based. That is, acrylic from Vallejo, Zip, Pacific88, Master Acrylic, . All of these paints have a fast drying time and allow you to apply colors with minimal drying time. Yes, the other side of the coin is the frequent sticking of paint on the airbrush needle, but this can be combated by adding a drying retarder to the paint and mechanically cleaning the tip of the needle. Well, it goes without saying that you should immediately take ready-made colors so as not to mess around with mixing paints.

Ready set of paints from MIG. With it, you can easily apply camouflage to a model of a German aircraft in one evening.

After applying the paint, it is enough to wait 30 minutes before applying masks. Of course, you should be careful, but in general, even water-based acrylic holds well on a primed surface.

The model is painted in the base color (acrylic SPTA), camouflage masks from Tesa tape are applied

Then the second color of camouflage is blown out and after the paint has dried, after a few minutes the masks are removed. Applying camouflage to the top of the Su-2 took less than an hour, including waiting for the paint to dry.

The longest drying time is required for glossy varnish, which is applied under decals and washes. The most easy-to-work glossy varnishes, such as

We are back in touch - your guide to the world of scale modeling!

This year has brought a long-awaited revival to the work of our project.

Finally, letters from readers who are taking their first steps in large-scale modeling have begun to regularly arrive in our mailbox.

I answer every such letter, and try to help. I sincerely wish that your first actions will inspire in you the desire to grow and develop, to improve your skills. And they didn't beat him at all.

One distinguishing feature of incoming letters from readers is their practical value. Each question that needs an answer is asked more than once by different people. Therefore, the answers to them are the property of many. So they are the basis for the articles of our educational project.

Most of the questions are addressed exclusively to the details of the technological process. That is, what paint to choose, how to make a painting template, how and why to prime the models. You can find answers to many of them on the Internet.

There are questions concerning conceptual solutions and approaches. Which direction to choose, where to start. It is the answers to these questions that form the picture of the world of the future modeller, to a certain extent programming his further Path.

QUESTION

I recently decided to take up modeling and found it in the Topol store. To tell the truth, before that I had no full-fledged models and he may be the first. Should I buy it or choose something else as a first experience?

ANSWER

The answer to this question is based on the understanding of two things.

MOMENT 1

No one in the world has yet managed to be a master of everything. This is not given to man. Neither Julius Caesar, who knew how to do several things at the same time, nor Leonardo da Vinci, who left behind a rich legacy of creative and engineering developments.

Man will always be MASTER OF ONE CASE . To whom he gives his all. To which he devotes most of his time.

And it's not about the person at all. And in the vastness of any knowledge, any practical work. The bottom line is that any answer gives rise to a dozen new questions. Any activity contains thousands and thousands of nuances, the comprehension of which can take a lifetime.

But even after that, there will be something to understand, to study. What to improve.

These considerations are directly related to scale modeling. And any person who decides to really begin to comprehend it should understand the basic rule.

DONT TAKE EVERYTHING AT ONCE

No matter how interesting, no matter what models you like - you need to choose ONE the only direction in modeling in which you will work.

It doesn't really matter what it is.

BTT, fleet, military-historical miniature, civil or military aviation. You must choose one direction that you like. Which is closest to your interests. Work in which you will like for a long time.

This single direction will become your skeleton, on which you will build up the muscles of skills and practical work skills. Another thing is that in order to find your native niche, you may try more than one model in the assembly, or maybe more than a dozen.

You should not be afraid to try yourself in different directions and styles of work. Take several models from all subtypes of scale modeling. And collect them one by one. The process of working on each of them will give you accurate knowledge.

Remember...

Truth is reached only through your personal practical experience. No amount of reasoning and inference will give you a taste of reality. You must try to do everything yourself. And find your niche.

Do not be afraid of the thought that you will have to spend your whole life inside one specificity.

Let me tell you a little secret...

Any self-improvement consists of a series of successive stages. And the development of high levels of skill in any business is achieved only through enrichment with experience gained from related fields. And maybe even from completely distant to your primary line of business.

It's kind of like cross-pollination.

This is found everywhere. In business, when airport passenger service ideas are applied in the office of a plastic window manufacturing company. Or in martial arts. When people who have been practicing one style for many years begin the practical development of a completely different direction, allowing you to look at yourself as if from the outside.

But our SKELETON will remain the same.

Your task is to find it - your skeleton, your main direction.

MOMENT 2

Now the market for prefabricated plastic models has moved to a new level of quality. Models of the past often sinned with their inconsistency of parts, weights and flash. A dozen other non-obvious, and yet painful, shortcomings.

Sometimes assembling a model, even for an experienced craftsman, caused only negative emotions. I just wanted to take and throw all this plastic junk into the trash, and not sit and grind and display details. So that they somehow fit together.

Such models were the lot of those who sought to make perfection. And he was the owner of an excellent nervous system and mental health of the Eastern Buddha.

But such models are not suitable for a beginner in scale modeling. The task of the first stage - the first steps of becoming a modeler - is simply to learn how to assemble models, while getting enough pleasure from assembling. You should feel how cool it is to collect models that you like.

Therefore, at the initial stage, you need good quality models, with excellent compatibility, with a minimum of problems.

Until recently, such models were only in the arsenal of foreign manufacturers, such as Tamiya or Hasegawa. Later, the Chinese companies Dragon, Meng, Great Wall, Trumpeter came to this cohort.

Now our domestic Zvezda has switched to the production of models of excellent quality. For which I began to respect them. All the novelties of last year are perfectly executed. And civil aviation, and Su-27SM2, and Topol, and Panther.

I would advise you to take new items from Zvezda as your first models. Yes, I do not argue in them a lot of details. But you need to get used to it right away. The main thing is that they are perfectly assembled. And leave a great feeling behind.

CONCLUSIONS:

Dear novice modellers! Be guided by these two points at the beginning of your professional career. And in a hierarchical order. At first Moment 1, then Moment 2. And you will succeed. ImportantDon't rush, enjoy every moment.

After all, the assembly of a good model is akin to a beautiful high-mountain Chinese tea, which gives strength and vigor. And the aftertaste will provide you with the desire to continue your Path to Mastery .

Finally, I would like to say a few words on the merits of the issue in this article. Topol's model came out at Zvezda very, very worthy. Confirmation of this fact is the Model Fan medal at the Nuremberg exhibition of this 2015, received by the Star.

The model has excellent adhesion, there is very little flash. There are only two or three sinkers, they are visible, but it is easily removed. The model is as close as possible to the prototype, for which special thanks to the manufacturer.

It is not difficult to assemble even for a beginner. The main thing is not to rush. In general, Topol's model is the only one at the moment. Even Trump has nothing like that yet.