How to sew a topic on an elastic band with straps. How to sew a knitted top. Top front line
It's easy if you know a few "tricks"
1. The top of the top from the inside has a silicone band.
2. jersey in the chest area is quite tight
3. The back pattern is shorter than the shelf pattern.
Now more on each of the points + pattern for size 46-48.
Here: building a top for the size of OG = 96-98, From = 78, ABOUT = 98-100 cm
actwin,0,0,1360,742;Untitled - Rhinoceros (Corporate) - Rhino4 05/09/2015 , 20:47:41
- Choice of knitwear.
It should not be too stretchy and hold its shape well. For example, knitwear-“oil” is not the best option for a top. I had a good quality cotton jersey, quite dense, medium stretch. - Decat the fabric before cutting! Wash as usual so that there are no surprises after - knitwear is insidious.
- Calculate the "negative gain" in the chest area.
To do this, you need to stretch a piece of fabric across and determine the comfortable degree of tension to your measurement of exhaust gas 1. Measure above the chest - the centimeter tape passes under the armpits. We need to understand how much to “pull” the top border of the top.
The fact is that the top we will have is light, without supporting bones. He will have to hold on only due to the tension on his chest.
In the waist and hips, it is enough to reduce your measurements by 2-3 cm - Cut out the back and shelf.
We will have two areas for fitting the shelf.
Firstly, in the chest area 2-3 cm. This is how we distribute the side tuck to the volume of the chest.
secondly, in the waist area 1-2 cm. So we shorten the back to get rid of wrinkles in the lumbar deflection. It is simple and pleasant to fit the knitted fabric. We use the properties of extensibility: first you need to chop off the sections, evenly distributing the fit. Then stitch the side cuts with any knit stitch (I have a zigzag with a small amplitude of 1.3 mm and a step of 2 mm). Stretch the fabric with your hands while sewing. All processes are in the photo. I will make a reservation right away: I am not a fan of the sewing technique. I do not plan to buy an expensive flat-seam machine for my small workshop. And in general I prefer methods of processing knitwear that are different from industrial ones. Overlock, simple and stepped zigzag, hidden hand stitches - that's enough. this is NOT wrong! This is sincere and couture). If you prefer special equipment - this is welcome. All markers are different in taste and color.
I love knitwear, I sew it a lot and often. I advise beginners not to be afraid of technology). Knitwear, of course, has sewing features. But this is such a grateful material that, having mastered the simple rules, you will dearly love it, like me). By the way, I plan to make a series of articles on knitwear. - Processing side cuts on the overlock. Of course, you can only get by with a 4-thread overlock stitch, but stretching the fabric under the overlock knife, while simultaneously following the direction of the stitch, is quite problematic. “Sloppy somehow” (c).
- We process the lower and upper sections with an overlock line.
- We just bend the bottom. As you like - any knitted line or hands. In the photo: The more experience I gain, the more often I use running stitches. I do not regret the time for manual work - it pays off with the end result.
- to the upper cut, first we attach the silicone tape - with an elastic stitch, slightly pulling the tape. Then we bend the cut. All processes are in the photo.
- The top is ready.
Tip: If the fabric does not stretch much in width, make the pattern one size larger.
You will need
- Millimeter paper ()
- Pencil
- Ruler ()
- copy wheel
- Measuring tape ()
- Stretch fabric at least 50 cm long, 120 cm wide
- Double jersey needle
- Threads for sewing
- Scissors ()
- Pins ()
Description of work
Step 1: draw a pattern
On a piece of graph paper, copy the pattern in your size:- black line - size S
- green - size M
- blue - size L
- the gray line indicates the line of the upper edge of the back
- 1 cell = 2 cm.
Step 2: cut out the details
Now you need to fold the fabric along a straight thread, prick the paper patterns of the front and back with a lower straight line (= middle line, fold line) on the fold of the fabric, add 1 cm of allowances for all cuts (side seam, top edge), 2.5 cm allowances for bottom hem and cut out 1 front and back piece with a fold. Transfer all the marks from the paper pattern to the details.Then, along the oblique (at an angle of 45 ° to the straight thread of the fabric), cut out the strips:
- 1 bias binding 60 cm long and 10 cm wide for facing the cutout front and
- 1 bias trim 140 cm long and 4 cm wide for edging the front and back neckline and shoulder straps.
Attention: all stitches should be done with a double needle to keep them stretchable. In the drawings, the seams are indicated by a red line, a lighter color is the wrong side, a darker one is the front.
Step 3: Stitch the front neckline
Bias binding for turning the front cutout, fold in the middle lengthwise in half with the wrong side inward and iron. Pierce the piping with the right side on the front side of the front so that the middle of the piping is aligned with the depth mark of the front cutout, and the ironed fold lies below, sewn to the top edge of the top. Overcast allowances together. Iron the facing upwards, lay the allowances on the front. Cut off the protruding short ends of the facing so that they are exactly aligned with the side cuts of the front.
Step 4: Stitch front and back, hem
Before laying on the back front to the front side, chop with pins along the side sections. Run side seams. Overcast the allowances together and iron on the back. Overcast the lower section, then iron on the wrong side to a width of 2.5 cm. Attach the hem with a double needle from the front side.
Step 5: Trim the back and armholes with bias binding
On a long oblique inlay, iron two long cuts on the wrong side to a width of 1 cm - these will be hem allowances (see the figure on the left), then fold the inlay in half lengthwise and iron the fold. Unfold one half of the inlay in one layer. Lay this cut on the wrong side of the back cutout and pin it so that the straps on each side between the front and back from the sharp ends of the front protrude up the same length (see picture on the right). Sew the bias tape, the line runs exactly along the fold of the ironed allowances, the seam width is 1 cm. Iron the allowances together onto the bias tape.
Wrap the bias tape on the wrong side around the allowances and pin or baste. The folds on the front and back sides should be aligned. Sew the trim and straps to the edge with a double jersey needle.
Step 6: sew the straps
Prick the protruding open ends of the straps on the back from the wrong side along the alignment marks. Try on the top and check the length of the straps. Sew the straps by hand to the seam allowances or stitch into the seam of the back seam. Trim protruding straps close to the stitches. Your top is ready.
Photo: BurdaStyle
The material was prepared by Elena Karpova
Hi all!
Today I'll show you how I sewed just such a T-shirt with straps, with beautiful elastic bands:
As for underwear for my daughter, I like it on narrow straps. In the kindergarten, they are required to wear T-shirts, but it is hot in our group, and if you put on, for example, a sundress, then an ordinary T-shirt will stick out from under it. That's why I sew for my daughter this way.
How to make a pattern? The first option is to circle the finished T-shirt, but there are no purchased T-shirts in our house))))) but only deposits of knitwear, so we go the other way. We take as a basis a proven T-shirt pattern and cut off “everything superfluous” from it. It turns out such a pattern: I pinned it on a T-shirt to make it clearer. The sizes are signed there (OG is about 56, 4 years old), and if they suit you, you can simply redraw from the monitor, if not, then here are a couple of tips.
I love almost tight-fitting T-shirts, so I narrow the T-shirt pattern on the sides. We combine the armpits of the T-shirt with the armpits of the T-shirt (this is the chest line), and draw smooth lines on top, how open we want to make our T-shirt. Another landmark - the corners from which the straps go up indicate approximately the beginning of the shoulder seam. We draw a draft, cut it out, apply it to the child, adjust it if necessary and go to cutJ
1. We cut the front and back, glue the transfers, I didn’t have a whole T-shirt in width, because underwear is usually sewn from leftovers, so I made inserts from the cashmere on the sides (and this way the T-shirt sits better on our convex figure), the T-shirt itself is made from cotton cooler.
2. We overlock the upper sections of the front and back on the overlock. Before reaching the corner of 2-3 mm, we raise the foot, carefully remove the part from the pin (such a metal pin around which an overlock line is formed), turn the part, lower the foot and continue overcasting.
3. We measure the rubber bands for the upper sections. When stitching, the elastic stretches a little, so we take a little shorter than the cut, or the same amount if there is an allowance on the sides.
4. We pin pieces of elastic, sew on a machine in a zigzag or triple zigzag, if the elastic is wide.
5. Now we need to figure out the length of the straps. You can focus on the same basic T-shirt - take the distance from the corners of the upper cuts to the top, but I prefer to try on, more precisely, and then redo it for a long time. We sweep part of the elastic along the front from the armhole towards the top, and part along the back (you can also pin it on the back if the child calmly allows experiments with fitting).
6. We sew the straps on the front and back. We make bartacks in the corners - back and forth, so that the elastic does not bloom. It turns out such a semi-finished product:
7. Stitch the side seams. So that the elastic does not move, I used to grab the top of the side seam with hand stitches, but it takes a long time, now I do this: I put the back and the shelf face to face, cut off everything superfluous (gum allowance and protruding threads), and carefully put it under the overlock foot, bringing it close to dropped needles. I make a couple of stitches, and slowly pull the chain of thread back. Overlock stitches our elastic without thickening and displacement.
You can put a flag in the side seam, for example:
8. We hem the bottom with a double needle for knitwear. We hide the ends of the threads under the seam. I use a needle with a thick eye, which includes all 6 threads. It happens that it is impossible to pull through such a thickness, so I pull out the needle with pliers that my husband gave meJ.
9. My least favorite step, but a necessary one, is bartacking at the top of the side seam. It is needed so that the allowance does not stick out and is not imprinted on the skin, and to prevent the elastic band from blooming (purchased t-shirts-cowards sin this). We unravel the chain of overlock threads - just pull out the needle threads - stick the longest thread into the needle (we hide the rest under the allowance) and make a few hand stitches.
10. The final WTO - and the T-shirt is ready.
You can sew a couple more panties to it, but more on that next time ;-)
Thank you for watching! I will be glad to comments.
I will supplement the post - a few more words about the straps.Instead of elastic bands, you can make narrow straps from knitwear. On the straps, you can use the same cotton cooler as the T-shirt itself, you can take a cashmere. Ribana, in my opinion, will be a bit thick for underwear, but just right for a summer T-shirt. It turns out that we must first baste the inlay on the front half, then clarify its final length on the fitting. And you also need to take into account that in the process of processing the strap will stretch, by 1-2 cm for sure, but then it depends on the chosen fabric. And be sure to use a knitted stitch for processing straps: a double needle, a triple zigzag or a simple zigzag.
I really like this top model, so I suggest you pay attention: a one-shoulder top pattern.
You will need:
- knitted fabric
- 2m of knitted trim to match the fabric
- 1 m of reinforcing tape 1 cm wide
- 15 punch buttons
Cut details:
Top pattern - only 2 parts.
Cut details in stretch jersey fabrics with stretch stitching or narrow zigzag stitching. And the hem of the bottom is sewn with a double needle to maintain its elasticity.
Description of the work of sewing a pattern of a top on one shoulder:
- , and process the side seam of the topic.
- finishing inlay along the entire contour of the neckline so that the fabric of the topic is placed strictly between the aligned edges of the inlay.
- Lay a line on the "face" of the product. Treat both parts of the armhole in the same way. Sew the shoulder seam. Process allowances together.
- From the side of the fastener, unscrew them to the front side, and iron. Put a fastening tape on top, bast it and sew it with two lines to the edge.
- On the tape stitched on the back of the top, punch through the bottom of the buttons. Punch the tops of the buttons over the tape on the front
- Process the bottom cut of the topic, bend the allowance to the wrong side, and. Remove the threads of the temporary running stitches and the piece.
Top pattern with stand-up collar.
Very beautiful top with a stand, meaning with a stand collar.
To make this top you will need:
crosswise stretch knit fabric
The cut details are:
- Before - 1 detail with a fold
- Back - 1 piece with a fold.
- Scarf-rack - also 1 with a fold
Description of the work of tailoring a top with a stand:
- Fold front and back right sides, sew side seams.
- Bend the bottom of the product and sew with a narrow zigzag stitch.
- turn the armholes and the upper cut of the back inside out and, slightly stretching the fabric, stitch from the front side. seams.
- Fold the scarf details right sides. scarf around the perimeter, leaving a free place for attaching to the neck.
- Turn the scarf inside out and . Gather the front, put between the outer and inner parts of the scarf and sew. The seam .
Such a T-shirt can be very beautifully decorated with rhinestones, add some stylish brooch or put on a hip belt. I think it will turn out wonderful :-) Good luck!
Top pattern with a "swing" neckline.
This is a swing pattern, or rather a top pattern with a "swing" type corlovina. Very beautiful and stylish, clothes with such a collar are always in trend.
You will need:
- elastic knitted fabric
- adhesive pad for knitwear
Cut details pattern swing:
- 1 front fold
- 2 pieces for the back
- 1 piece with a fold is a shoulder strap
- The facing of the upper cut of the back is also 1 piece.
Description of the work of the swing pattern:
- Reinforce with padding at the top of the back and shoulder straps.
- Run the middle seam and darts on the back.
- Iron the depths of the tucks towards the middle of the back.
- Turn the one-piece facing of the top of the front to the face and sew along the cuts of the armholes.
- Fold the shoulder strap with the front side inward, along the longitudinal section, turn it inside out and iron.
- Turn inside out the one-piece facing for the top of the front and the allowances for the armholes.
- Insert the ends of the straps into the upper corners between the allowances. Sew the product along the armhole from the face to the edge about 5 to 7 mm from it.
- folded front sides facing the top of the back and back.
- Adjust the seam allowances. Sew the side seams without grabbing the facings.
- Bend it to the allowances of the side seams and the middle seam and to the depths of the darts Bend the bottom of the product and sew it to the edge, and then through 5 to 7 mm from it.
That's it, beautiful and not difficult!
Very trendy strapless top. Pattern.
Today I present: a strapless top pattern. In my opinion, the model deserves special attention, because it has been in trend for more than a year, it looks very romantic and sexy at the same time!
You will need:
- silk stretch
- ruffled chiffon
- finishing gum
Details of cut pattern strapless top:
- Before - from silk-stretch -1 detail with a fold.
- And the back is made of corrugated chiffon - 1 piece with a fold.
- The top of the top is 2 details with a fold.
Description for a strapless top pattern:
- Process the sections of the front of the back and the top of the top.
- and complete the side seams, you need allowances on both sides.
- on the cutouts, turn to the wrong side, sweep, and stitch along the edge of the processing
- cut.
- and finishing elastic to the upper part of the product, without disturbing the folds of the corrugation.
- ruffled chiffon detail along the line of the upper cut of the front and back of the top, starting from the middle of the back and the middle of the front.
- top, work allowances together and iron down. Finish the bottom of the open part of the top of the top with a finishing elastic band. ready product.
Top pattern with straps.
So, today in the spotlight: top with straps. This is a pattern for a top with cord straps. Interesting? Look further.
You will need:
- elastic jersey
- cord about 3cm thick
- 6 blocks with washers with an inner diameter of 5 mm
Cut details:
Front and back 1 piece each with a fold.
That's all, the top with straps turned out, you can already wear it and be irresistible!
Pattern of a women's T-shirt.
Good day!! Today is a T-shirt pattern.
A T-shirt is an undoubted element not only of a sports wardrobe, but also with a skillful decor and choice of fabric, you can sew an excellent version of an evening top using a regular T-shirt pattern. For example, if you decorate the shoulders, we get an original outfit. You can simply, having also received the author's decor, or embroider with rhinestones / sequins.
In general, there are many ways, it is worth a little imagination.
In the classic sports version, of course, knitted fabric is chosen, but do not forget about experiments
T-shirt pattern.
Tailoring process.
- We connect the shoulder seams, and the sleeve with the armhole.
- We also connect the side seams and at the same time the lower section of the sleeve.
- We process the neck (hem 1 cm).
- We process the bottom of the sleeves and T-shirts (hem 2 cm).
You can increase the size of the pattern like this:
Peplum top pattern
My regards!! Today, a pattern of a top with a peplum. How could it be without him, because the peplum is the undoubted favorite of this summer, spring, and I have no doubt that next season as well.
- Let me remind you that a skirt pattern with a peplum, as well as a separate article with, as an element of decor in clothes and just a self-sufficient accessory - a belt. Therefore, it will not be difficult for you to carve it out.
The peplum top pattern consists of several parts - this is the back / shelf and, in fact, the peplum itself.
- Here are two options: the top as the base base, and the peplum "protrudes" in two versions, depending on the "splendor", so you can immediately decide on its size.
- Sleeves can be sewn to this top, it will also turn out very elegant.
By the way, you can easily make many options for stylish outfits if you pair a regular fabric with a matching tone to such a top. Thus, we will get a peplum dress, which in my opinion is a win-win option, and a separate top, a separate skirt, as well as many variations with various other things in your wardrobe.
As you can see, you can be in trend, dress stylishly, fashionably, elegantly, and not depend on the peculiarities of the store trade.
Model complexity level - simple
Technical drawing of the model:
Appearance description
Slip and/or top in silk fabric with a fitted silhouette. The front part of the combination (top) with a detachable bodice, on which the tucks are processed. There is a lace insert between the front and the bodice. The upper cut of the bodice is decorated with lace trim. Back with middle seam. The shoulder straps of the combination (top) are made of edging braid. The technology of processing straps allows you to adjust their length.
When ordering a pattern, you will receive a pdf file containing 1 pattern sheet, which can be printed on several A4 sheets, after gluing which you will receive one large sheet with pattern outlines:
* To print the pattern in real size, when printing in AdobeReader, select the "Poster" item in the "Setting the size and page processing" section. Then the image will be automatically divided into the required number of fragments of A4 format. If your version of AdobeReader does not have the "Poster" function, you need to download the latest version of this program from the link https://get.adobe.com/en/reader/ (this is a licensed free program). If you still have questions - visit our FAQ section!
The following designations are adopted on the pattern:
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Details (combination details with red numbers, top - blue. The cut line of the top is indicated on the pattern by a dotted line and signed):
1. Back - 2 children.
2. Bodice - 2 children.
3. Before - 1 child. (with fold)
4. Lace trim bodice - 2 children.
5. Lace insert - 2 children.
Also on the details of the back there is an inscription: "The length of the inlay for edging and straps = xxx cm (including two straps xxx cm each)"
When cutting, add allowances for the seams: along the side sections of the front, back and bodice - 0.8 cm; along the lower cut of the front and back - 1.0 cm; along the upper cut of the front, upper and lower cut of the bodice - 0.5 cm. Allowances for the seams of parts made of lace: along the side, lower and upper cut of the lace insert - 0.8 cm; the seam allowance along the middle cut of the lace insert and lace trim depends on the processing technology of this knot and the sewing machine used - 0.3 cm if you connect these parts using a zigzag stitch machine, or 0.8 cm if this is not possible.
ATTENTION! On the cut of the armhole, the upper cut of the back, do not give a seam allowance, because. these slices will be edged during processing.
Recommendations for materials: For the manufacture of the product you will need a silk material (preferably viscose or Lyocell), preferably with an attachment of elastane threads or a thin knitted fabric. The combination will require 70 cm of material with a width of at least 120 cm, for a top - 50 cm with a width of at least 100 cm.
PARTS LAYOUT
COMBINATION
In addition, to make a combination and (or) top, you will need a lace fabric or lace braid 5 cm wide, an edging braid or an oblique trim (the finished length, including allowances, is indicated on the back detail), as well as strap length adjusters - 2 pieces.
The sequence of sewing COMBINATIONS (TOPA):
- Sweep and then stitch the darts on the bodice. Iron the allowances to the center.
- Sweep and then stitch the details of the back along the middle seam. Overcast the cuts, iron the seam allowances to the side.
- Stitch the details of the lace insert along the middle seam on a zigzag sewing machine (Fig. 1). If there is no sewing machine that performs a zigzag stitch, then overcast the middle sections of the lace insert, sew, and then iron the seam allowances (Fig. 2).
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- Also connect the details of the lace trim of the bodice along the middle seam.
- Baste and then stitch the lace trim of the bodice to the bodice along the upper cut. Overcast the cuts, iron the seam allowances.
- Baste and then stitch the lace insert to the bodice. Overcast the cuts, iron the seam allowances.
- Baste and then stitch the lace insert to the front. Overcast the cuts, iron the seam allowances down.
- Sweep and then grind the front and back along the side cuts. Overcast the cuts, iron the seam allowances towards the back.
- Finish the bottom edge of the combination with a hem seam with a closed edge (Fig. 1) or a hem seam with an open overcast edge (Fig. 2).
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- Prepare edging tape for forming loops intended for attaching rings.
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- Fringe the upper cut of the back (from the middle seam) and the cuts of the armholes of the bodice with edging tape or oblique trim with simultaneous processing (stitching) of the straps.
- Overcast the ends of the edging tape, for attaching the rings. Thread the rings, bend the free ends of the edging tape in half inward and secure with two short parallel lines at the base. Thus, the length of the loops into which the rings are threaded should be approximately 2 cm. Sew the loops with rings on the back.
- Overcast the ends of the straps, thread them into the buckles to adjust the length, bend the end of each strap inward, pull it through the buckle from the inside again and fasten it on the folded side of the straps
