Natural silk: description of the fabric, composition, properties, advantages and disadvantages. What is silk made of?

Silk is a soft and durable fabric with a pleasant glossy sheen. The manufacturing technology of the thread is unique - it is obtained by unwinding miniature silkworm cocoons. The secret of making silk was known only in China for a long time. Despite the fact that now the noble fabric is made in India, Brazil and other countries of the world, China remains the largest silk producer to this day.

Taffeta

The main feature (or taffets) is rigidity and dimensional stability. Petticoats and lining are sewn from this material. The word "taffeta" Persians called any woven material. Tightly twisted threads are connected in a reliable linen weave.

Character traits:

wear resistance;
durability;
pleasant glossy sheen;
dimensional stability;
moisture repellency.

Due to the strength of the fabric, balloons were made from waxed taffeta and covered with it the wings and plumage of some of the first aircraft.

Taffeta is plain, printed, crinkled and smooth, as well as with a large woven pattern.

Toile

Toile began to be made in France to replace the expensive printed Indian fabric chintz. The main feature is a color pattern printed over a plain canvas. Popular stories:

floral ornaments;
images of animals;
pastoral scenes.

The interlacing of the warp and weft threads is linen. The toile is also made from natural silk. Unlike its cotton counterpart, silk is smoother, shinier, finer and more festive. This material was often upholstered with walls in living rooms.

Chiffon

Chiffon silk

Real silk chiffon is an expensive, elite material. Very light, slightly sandy to the touch fabric. The threads for creating chiffon are tightly twisted (however, as for the manufacture of other light materials).

Basic properties:

ease;
color fastness;
strength;
hypoallergenicity;
hygroscopicity;
antibacterial.

Chiffon varieties include mother-of-pearl pearl chiffon, glossy satin chiffon, rough crepe chiffon, jacquard chiffon and iridescent chameleon-effect fabric.

Chesucha (wild silk)

The fabric consists of a plain weave of fibers of uneven thickness. This material is produced either from the remnants of silk yarn and defective fibers, or from cocoons not of a silkworm, but of a butterfly called Antheraea mylitta. The material is dense but light. Untreated scab has a yellow-brown color.

Advantages:

affordable price;
strength;
hygroscopicity;
aesthetic matte finish.

From chesuchi they sew everyday and outerwear for any season and climate. The threads contain amino acids that have a beneficial effect on the condition of the skin.

Foulard

Scarf fabric foulard

This thin silk material is called handkerchief. Foulard appeared in the XVIII century in Europe. Translated from French means scarf. The weave of the fabric is very simple and reliable - linen. The foulard is dyed in various colors and decorated with prints.

Fabric properties:

antibacterial;
hypoallergenicity;
hygroscopicity;
drape.

Foulard cannot be called a very durable fabric. Curtains, lampshades, neckerchiefs and stoles, as well as accessories (artificial flowers, brooches) are made from this material.

Properties and uses of silk

Having considered various types of fabrics, we can conclude that the main distinguishing feature of natural silk is a soft noble sheen. The fiber has a trihedral cross section and refracts light like a prism. Thanks to this optical effect, silk things look light, elegant, reminiscent of the smooth surface of water.

Flaws:

requires delicate care and careful work with the iron;
silk should be protected from sunlight;
high price.

A large number of different products are sewn from silk:

women's clothing (blouses, skirts, jackets, trousers);
dresses (wedding, evening, cocktail);
men's clothing (shirts, ties);
underwear (corsets, shorts, bras);
home clothes (robes, suits);
bed linen (pillowcases, sheets, duvet covers, as well as decorative pillows);
curtains (lambrequins, curtains, curtains);
household textiles (napkins,);
lining for outerwear (coats, jackets, fur coats);
furniture upholstery (armchairs, sofas, poufs);
decor and accessories (ribbons, hair clips, neckerchiefs).

An interesting fact: silk threads are also used as a surgical suture material for the treatment of wounds and various injuries.

Subtleties of care

Silk is a noble and delicate material. Things should be protected from puffs, claws of animals, exposure to high temperatures. Silk requires accuracy and skill during ironing. To maintain a neat appearance of the fabric, a few general rules should be followed:

Silk can be washed by hand, in warm water (30 degrees), avoiding sharp twisting.
In the washing machine, choose a delicate or gentle mode (depending on the model of equipment, they are called differently). Some washing machines are equipped with a special "silk" mode. The temperature regime is observed (30 degrees).
The washed fabric should be rinsed in warm water (25 degrees). You can also add vinegar (five tablespoons per ten liters of water) - this technique will help enhance the brightness of the silk.
The material can be pressed by hand and in the machine, you just need to make sure that the process is gentle.
Silk is dried in the shade on the street or in a well-ventilated area - under the influence of ultraviolet light, the fabric may change color. Things are well straightened or hung on a coat hanger.
The fabric is kept away from heating appliances.
Silk is ironed with a slightly heated iron. There are special automatic modes of the same name for ironing.

When buying silk, you should be wary of fakes made from viscose or synthetic threads. Artificial fabric shines dull, the front side may be uneven. When compressed, artificial silk is wrinkled and retains the shape of the creases. If you set fire to a synthetic thread, it will smell like plastic, and viscose thread will smell like wood. A silk thread set on fire burns very slowly, smells like burnt feathers, and a gray ball forms at the end.

Despite the high cost of fabric, natural silk clothing is very popular. It is considered prestigious and is suitable for everyday wear, office work, and for various special occasions.

Natural fabrics have always been considered a luxury item. Previously, only upper class people could afford them. Today, due to the availability and improved welfare of society, products made from natural fibers can be purchased at a relatively low cost. Silk is one of the obvious representatives of luxurious fabrics. They learned how to carefully fake it, so the question becomes relevant: “How to identify a fake?”. Let's talk about everything in order.

Features of silk

Natural silk is a smooth fabric with a glossy surface. The material screams about wealth, skillful creation and a deep history of origin.

In order to get a thread of silk, it is necessary to unwind the cocoon of the silkworm. This is a medium-sized light butterfly that feeds mainly on mulberry leaves.

Today, bedding, underwear, clothes, and household textiles are produced on the basis of silk. Such a wide popularity encourages unscrupulous manufacturers to supply counterfeit products to the market.

Natural type material is expensive when compared with synthetics or even cotton. But, nevertheless, silk is in an accessible area, almost everyone can buy it if they wish.

Most often, artificial "silk" is made on the basis of synthetic fibers or viscose. Very often, a fake is no different from a natural fabric in appearance, but it is much inferior in its properties and quality.

To identify fake material, it is necessary to study all types of silk and their main differences. Then we will give an effective technique by which you can easily distinguish the original from the fake.

Subspecies of natural silk

Velvet - it is also called silk velvet, because silkworm threads are included in the basis of the fabric. Velvet is a soft fleecy surface to which everything usually sticks due to a certain texture. Velvet fabrics often include natural silk, which makes the fabric so unusual, iridescent. Already in the 18th century in our country they began to produce exactly “natural” velvet with silk threads included.

Atlas - if this word is translated literally, the output will be “smooth”, “slippery”. The type of interweaving of satin threads with silk threads was first invented by the greatest minds of China. To this day, manufacturing technology is only improving. There are several types of satin: patterned, with silk weave, heavy, moire and others. Most often, ties, curtains, curtains, furniture upholstery, scarves, church robes are sewn from satin. Wedding fashion designers prefer to sew dresses for brides from this fabric.

Silk veil - as the name implies, the material is made from light threads of silk. The veil was first produced in France, then the technology spread around the world. The translucent material is often decorated with embroidery, ornaments, and a veil for the bride is made on its basis. The veil can be dyed, bleached, printed, colorless.

Chiffon - light in appearance, but extremely heavy in weight, translucent material. Reminiscent of a fine mesh, which favorably emphasizes the wedding attire of the bride. Silk threads are woven into chiffon to give the material shine, lightness, airiness and high cost. To the touch, the fabric is uneven, sandy, matte with periodic reflections in the sun. Chiffon is ideal for sewing light summer blouses, dresses and sundresses.

Taffeta is a dense fabric that holds its shape perfectly. The translucent canvas is starched before the final release on the shelves. Taffeta is used to make bridal veils and other types of products that require additional support in shape.

Batiste silk - the process is extremely difficult to describe. First, thin silk threads are twisted into dense and fairly voluminous bundles, then, based on the raw materials obtained, they begin to make a canvas. Batiste is very durable, but at the same time transparent and light. It was first invented in the 13th century in France, the fabric got its name thanks to its creator, Francois Baptiste. Silk batiste is much easier to work with than natural 100% silk. At the same time, the price of a subspecies is several times lower.

One-colored silk is the raw material of the highest quality. In the process of unwinding the threads, it is possible to collect intact fibers, due to which the final fabric comes out quite dense, but at the same time light. Women's sets, underwear, expensive bedding are made from silk of this type.

Brocade - matter, which is additionally draped with metal threads with silver, gold or other imitating materials. The fibers have a silk base, most often used for decoration in artistic terms. Previously, brocade was woven with silk and real gold threads, but now it is difficult to find a fabric with precious inserts.

Focus on the price, in most cases, quality material cannot be cheap. Natural silk is many times more expensive than synthetic fakes. The real material is pleasant to the touch. It flows easily on the hands, soft and gentle.
As for the fake, it is much colder and tougher. Real silk is famous for its unique quality. When in contact with a person, the material quickly acquires the temperature of his body.
Also, real silk is very hygroscopic, so it can be distinguished from a fake. Synthetic fabric will get wet almost immediately. As for the color, natural silk has a muted iridescent color. He is more natural.
Artificial fabric also shimmers, but it does not change shades. Almost all natural products wrinkle when compressed, silk is no exception. Moreover, soft folds are formed on the real product, which can be easily smoothed out.
Artificial silk wrinkles much more noticeably; in the process of wearing clothes, it does not straighten out, unlike the original. Creases remain on unnatural fabrics, which are almost impossible to smooth out even with an iron.
Products made of synthetic silk at the edges have a clear flowability of the material. When choosing a natural composition, you should rely on pleasant sensations. Quality silk is famous for its unique softness and structure. It is pleasant to the body.
The natural material is soft and somewhat warm with a flowing structure. Artificial products do not have such features. Non-natural silk is always less soft and cold to the touch.
If you crush two materials in your hands, natural and artificial, then in the first case, a quality product will practically not be wrinkled, unlike a fake. Also, real silk, when the thread is broken, has an even structure. Artificial material will fluff.
The naturalness of products can be tested for strength. To do this, you need to take 2 threads of different materials. Moisten them and try to tear them apart. Wet and dry threads of real silk are equally difficult to break. Artificial wet material is torn easily.
The naturalness of the material is tested by burning. It may seem that this method is unacceptable, but on the other hand it is reliable. If you set fire to two types of materials, the flame and smell will be significantly different from each other.
Natural silk will curl up into a tight ball. The thread will quickly go out and smell like burnt pile. The artificial product will burn to the end, and the smell of burnt synthetics will appear. Also, things made of non-natural silk do not lose their shape and size when worn for a long time. Quality material shrinks a little.
Naturalness is checked by burning out in direct sunlight. A fake does not lend itself to such a factor. Real silk after a certain period begins to lose its original appearance.

The naturalness of silk can be checked in several reliable ways that have been described above. Before purchasing silk, think carefully about whether you need it. Natural material requires scrupulous care. If you can properly care for things, they will give a pleasant feeling. Also, when choosing such products, you need to consider your own budget.

Video: how to distinguish natural silk from artificial

Today, the total production of silk fabrics is inferior in volume only to the production of fabrics from cotton threads. At the same time, it should be understood that modern silk is made not only from natural raw materials, but also from chemical or mixed fibers, and the share of authentic products on the market is insignificant and amounts to only 2-3% of the total volume.

What are silk fabrics made of?

Silk is woven from natural, artificial and synthetic threads. The last two varieties can be combined into one group - chemical. Natural - an elite and expensive silk fabric with a large number of advantages that its chemical counterparts do not have, these are:

High hygroscopicity. The ability to absorb moisture up to half its weight and dry quickly.
Hypoallergenic. Does not accumulate dust, does not electrify, does not cause allergies, prevents the growth of microbes and neutralizes unpleasant odors.
Excellent thermoregulation. Under such clothes, in any weather, a body temperature that is comfortable for a person is maintained.
Air and vapor permeability. Despite the high density, products made from natural fibers perfectly pass air and water vapor, providing optimal conditions for the life of the human body.
Durability and wear resistance. Silk fabric serves for many years without loss of quality. It is even resistant to vinegar and alcohol. It can only be damaged by a concentrated solution of alkali or acid, or by constant exposure to the sun.
Fire safety. When hit by a spark, it does not burn, but only slowly smolders, spreading the smell of burnt feathers around.

The disadvantages of products made from natural protein fibers include:

high cost;
large (up to 5%) shrinkage;
poor form keeping;
low thermal stability;
difficulty in sewing (flowability, warping).

Production features

The production of silk is a very labor-intensive process, so experiments have been carried out over the centuries to create its synthetic counterpart. The first thoughts on this topic can be traced in the work of the famous English naturalist Robert Hooke, published back in 1667. A little later, Hooke's undertakings were further developed in the ideas of his French colleague Rene Réaumur. And a century later, in 1842, the German inventor and manufacturer Ludwig Schwabe presented the world with a prototype of the first machine for the production of chemical thread. Another 13 years passed after this event, and in England a method for transforming mulberry cellulose using sulfuric and nitric acid was patented. Further experiments and practical developments proved their worth in practice, which led to the fact that all types of silk fabrics produced today are almost 97% artificial or synthetic.

Artificial threads are made from cellulose compounds. Fibers from this natural, renewable source of raw materials meet the most hygienic standards. Currently, there are three types of fibers made from high molecular weight cellulose, with different comparative characteristics:

Viscose.
Acetate.
Triacetate.

In addition to the above artificial types of fibers, there are also synthetic varieties: polyamide (for example, kapron, anid, epan) and polyester (for example, lavsan). Their main disadvantages are low hygroscopicity and increased electrification.

Why are chemical analogues of natural material called silk?

The established designation - silk fabric, no longer bothers anyone, even if the buyer purchases a product that is the result of the achievements of the chemical industry. But still, ideally, only material made from the protein filaments of the cocoon of a silkworm caterpillar: mulberry or oak can be called that. And it would be more correct to call all other varieties fakes, then there will be no need to add a prefix word - natural - to real silk.

If we approach the question of belonging of one or another material to silk from the standpoint of chemistry, then their difference in molecular structure immediately becomes obvious. And if you try to synthesize in the laboratory the protein structure of the product of the life of a unique butterfly, then the output may be an identical material, the cost of which will many times exceed the price of natural raw materials.

It is impossible to combine the entire range of this type of fabric and weaving. There are a huge number of varieties obtained using different weaving methods. For example, satin is characterized by satin weaving, twill - twill, etc., but all these fabrics are silk.

And yet why are all these species combined into one large group? Let's try to understand this issue sequentially. In the first place, you can put the aesthetic component on the basis of visual perception (for example: I see - it is made of silk). As the second criterion of connection, one can put the tactile perception of a particular type by the consumer (for example: by touch I feel that this is a silk thing). The considered aspects are the unifying factors for all segments of silk groups and related subgroups, regardless of what the material is made from.

Let's summarize. Color design, gloss or dullness, elasticity, elasticity, iridescence, hardness or softness and other characteristics will be the conditions that unite silk fabrics according to aesthetic criteria, that is, the association should be sought in the consumer (associative) properties of this large group.

Types of silk fabrics

Silk fabrics are produced in various ways of weaving. The most popular of them:

satin;
twill;
linen;
finely patterned;
large-patterned.

An important feature of all these varieties is a noble luster that is pleasing to the eye.

According to the fiber composition, they are divided into products made of threads:

natural;
artificial;
synthetic;
mixed.

A blended material is optionally a mixture of natural and chemical fibers. It can also consist of only natural fibers, but of different origin. For example, recently, when sewing suits and dresses, the fabric wool with silk in a percentage of 60/40 is very popular.

All these groups, in turn, can also be divided into subgroups according to the invoice:

crepe;
satin;
jacquard;
pile.

And also for subgroups by purpose:

special purpose;
piece (bedspreads and tablecloths);
technical;
raincoat and jacket;
decorative;
for textile haberdashery;
lining;
shirt;
dress and costume;
dress and blouse.

Crepe fabrics

Crepe includes types of silk made using right or left crepe twist in the warp or weft. This twist provides the material with roughness, fine grain, movable structure and drape, as well as good stretch and elasticity. As for the weave, it can be either crepe or pure crepe.

The most common types of crepe materials are:

Crepe chiffon or silk chiffon is a soft, translucent and light silk fabric made from two or three thread crepe.
Crepe georgette is a thin silk fabric, not as sheer as crepe chiffon, more lustrous than crepe satin, made from three- and four-thread crepe.
Crepe pleated - thin silk made from crepe georgette or crepe de chine, characterized by a "wrinkled" surface, achieved by using weft threads with different crepe twists.

To semi-crepe types, first of all, thin silk crepe de chine can be attributed. It is based on raw silk (metaxa), which provides this material with an attractive gloss, and plain weave gives it structural stability, elasticity and drape. Products made of crepe de chine have reduced creasing, which ensures the practicality of socks.

Semi-crepes also include such a dense and heavy silk fabric as crepe satin and crepe satin that looks very similar to it. They are distinguished by a smooth front surface and a fine-grained reverse side and a satin weave with crepe twist of the weft threads. They are used everywhere: from clothes for daily wear, evening dresses and peignoirs to tablecloths, covers, curtains and stage blinds.

Crepe-maroquin belongs to the fabrics of rep weaving, with a very tightly twisted thread at the base. It has good wear resistance and strength, embossed texture and roughness. Everyday and evening dresses and suits are sewn from it. Another representative of rep weaving, a kind of crepe de chine, is fide chine with an increased structural density, which is why its front side is without an obvious transverse scar. It is also used to make clothes and sometimes curtains.

Satin fabrics

Like the above materials, they are very diverse in their fiber composition. Silk smooth shiny fabric can be:

With viscose warp and acetate weft.
With acetate warp and viscose weft.
With viscose warp and triacetate weft.
With triacetate warp and viscose weft.

Canvases of the satin subgroup combine such common properties as a smooth surface and low density. They are made of linen, twill, satin or finely patterned weaving from metax with a weak flat twist, which does not give a crepe effect. The list of the smooth subgroup includes foulards and tuali, which are based on metaxa, and weft is a thread with a low degree of torsion. Representatives of this group are similar in appearance to cotton, but softer and shiny.

The most popular satin varieties are:

Satin - satin or wet silk - an iridescent silk fabric of satin weave with a sheen on the front side and a matte wrong side. Drape well.
Silk-linen is a dense silk fabric with a soft sheen and minimal transparency. Outwardly similar to the staple fabric, but has less creasing.
Muslin is a thin, transparent silk fabric with overflows of threads of medium (muslin) twist. They have a pleasant appearance, but have one drawback - the extension of the threads.
Chiffon is a thin and light silk fabric. It happens both with a plain-colored and printed pattern. Most often used for sewing blouses and dresses.
Toile, foulard - both types are made of linen weaving and are soft and light. Moreover, the foulard is slightly lighter than the toile.

Wet silk, in turn, is also divided into several varieties: dupont, charmeuse and fai - with varying degrees of sheen and different density, used mainly for sewing luxurious evening dresses and exclusive bed linen.

jacquard fabrics

This subgroup is highly decorative. Jacquard weaving gives the material volume due to all sorts of color overflows from light to dark. And the luster of this iridescent patterned silk adds a metallic effect to the look. Drawings on jacquard can be different: floral, geometric, two-color, multi-color. Additional inclusions enhance the contrasts of the texture and emphasize the relief.

The assortment of the jacquard subgroup is not very large. The raw material for it is mainly acetate and triacetate fiber. Jacquard fabrics are very dense, harsh to the touch and are distinguished by one very good quality - they do not require significant effort when caring for them. Applications: elegant and casual wear, stage costumes, all kinds of home textiles.

Pile fabrics

Pile materials are distinguished by increased decorativeness and elegance. They are very difficult to process and work with them requires special professional skills, including the correct laying out of patterns and care when processing seams. The main criteria for the quality of the material of this subgroup include dense and durable fastening of the pile, the absence of flaws in the pattern and its expressiveness.

The pile varieties include:

dress velvet - the pile is solid, with a stable vertical arrangement, rather dense, small. Most often it is plain-colored, less often it is found with a printed pattern;
velor velvet is a dense fabric with a smooth, slightly inclined viscose pile 2 mm long. Such velvet is much heavier than dress velvet;
etched velor-velvet - viscose pile, not continuous, but made in separate sections of the canvas, taking into account the pattern.

How to distinguish natural textiles from artificial and synthetic counterparts

It is sometimes very difficult to distinguish natural material from artificial, in contrast to synthetic analogues, which are not natural, but exist only in the form of complex chemical compounds. Other than relying on personal feelings, which are sometimes deceptive, or using a simple method of testing for combustion, there is simply no way to tell the difference in the average buyer.

Look out for the following signs:

Synthetics are stiffer, do not shrink, are highly electrified, do not absorb liquid, and despite the fact that synthetic silk fabric also has overflows, they have a more “sharp” sheen. When burned, the threads melt with a characteristic "plastic" smell.
Artificial silk is not as elastic as natural silk and wrinkles more. The organoleptic method of comparison is based on the last sign: it is necessary to strongly squeeze the crumpled piece of the cut in the fist and hold for several seconds, then straighten it and look at the result. Cellulose cloths that have been mercerized to give a natural sheen leave clear creases. Another way is to set fire to the thread of the “tested” sample. Artificial matter will burn "like paper", with an even, unceasing burning, with a corresponding papery smell.
Real silk is pleasant to the touch and is so smooth that when hung on the hand, it literally "flows" from it. When applied to the skin, it does not cause discomfort: it quickly heats up to body temperature, creating the effect of the presence of a “second skin”. This quality is manifested due to the fact that natural threads are a protein waste product of an insect and are not "alien" for our skin receptors. When ignited, natural fiber smolders and under normal conditions is not able to burn on its own without external sources (quickly “throws off” the flame). During smoldering, it “emits” a faint smell of burnt wool or hair. After combustion, a caked lump remains, easily rubbed with fingers.

The care of silk products requires a separate, individual description due to the "diversity" used for its manufacture of raw materials.

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Silk is a valuable fabric known throughout the world for its soft sheen, unique smoothness and high durability. It was from natural silk that the robes of kings and noble nobles were made in ancient times. Now the precious material is available to everyone: it is used to make magnificent clothes and shoes, luxurious interior decorations and valuable home textiles.

Silk, unlike other fabrics, is not made from materials of plant or animal origin. It is made from cocoons of silkworm caterpillars.

The appearance of the material

The world owes the appearance of silk to the ancient Chinese craftsmen, who began to extract silk thread from cocoons a couple of millennia BC. Then silk fabric was made by hand, so only emperors and nobility had products from it.

The Chinese understood the value of the amazing fabric, so they kept the secret of its manufacture a secret. A person who dared to divulge the secret of silk production was condemned to death. However, by the 4th century, silk production technology had become known in Korea, Japan and India. In 550, this art became available to Europeans.

The color of passion.

Manufacturing technology

Silk making technology is very complicated. Moths and silkworm caterpillars are grown in special nurseries. When the caterpillar is wrapped in a cocoon, it is killed, and the cocoon is softened in hot water. Then it is unwound. From one cocoon, from 300 to 1000 m of silk fiber is obtained. The thread is compacted by twisting 5–8 fibers at a time, and wound into spools.

Coils are sorted, processed, sometimes the fibers are additionally twisted to increase density. The finished material is sent to the factory. There, the yarn is soaked in water and dyed. Then fabrics with different weaves are made from it. The type of silk fabric will depend on the type of weaving and the density of the threads.

Important! Now different countries are engaged in the manufacture of this material. However, China is still considered the leader in the supply of natural silk to the world market.

Chemical and physical properties of silk fabrics

Silk composition

The chemical composition of silk thread is close to human hair or animal wool: 97% of it consists of protein, the rest is wax and fats. Its composition is as follows:

18 amino acids;
2% potassium and sodium;
3% fat and wax components;
40% sericin;
80% fibroin.

Natural silk is very expensive: not everyone can afford a product made from this material. Therefore, factories have now appeared that are engaged in the manufacture of artificial fabrics - cupro silk (from viscose) and synthetic silk. Externally, synthetics differ little from natural fabrics, but do not have its wear resistance, strength and hygiene.

Important! The strength of silk is reduced when exposed to temperatures above 110°C or ultraviolet rays. The fabric becomes brittle, can be torn from minor physical impacts. With a long stay in the open sun (more than 200 hours), the strength of silk is halved.

Silk properties

Natural silk has gained popularity due to its amazing properties. Features of silk fabric are as follows:

High density, wear resistance and resistance to vinegar and alcohol. Only a concentrated solution of acid or alkali can damage the material.
Smoothness, soft shine and bright overflows. Silk pleasantly adheres to the skin, gently flows along the body and gently shines, making the products made from it look royally luxurious.
Bactericidal and hypoallergenic properties. Silk prevents the growth of bacteria, absorbs unpleasant odors and does not cause allergies. That is why it is often used to make clothes and bedding.
The crease of the material depends on the type. Plain weave silk wrinkles easily. But silk-lycra or silk-jacquard almost do not wrinkle.
The fabric does not undergo combustion: when a spark hits a silk product, it begins to smolder, spreading the smell of burnt feathers.

Fabric characteristics

For fans of silk clothing, other properties of the material are also important:

the fabric is well dyed in any shades due to the high hygroscopicity of the material:
perfectly passes and absorbs water, does not electrify, stretches well;
has an average shrinkage: after washing, the silk fabric always shrinks and can lose up to 5% of its original length.

Important! Silk is not only used for making clothes. Fine souvenirs are made from it, it is used in embroidery, knitting and felting, and crepe de chine, foulard or toile is an excellent basis for paintings and batik scarves.

Silk varieties

There are many varieties of silk fabrics. They differ in the quality of the thread, appearance, structure, weaving pattern and properties.

The most common types of silk fabric:

Toile- material with plain weaving, which holds its shape well and is distinguished by a soft shine and high density. It is used for sewing dresses, skirts, linings for outerwear and ties.
Silk satin- fabric with satin weave, which has two sides: a shiny front and a matte back. The satin drapes well and can have different densities. It is used for making clothes, shoes and decorating interiors.
Silk chiffon- a fabric with a plain weave. Differs in softness, transparency, roughness and dullness. Used for blouses, dresses, bathrobes.
dupont- dense fabric with a sheen. It is used for tailoring of curtains, curtains and vertical blinds.
Foulard- light and shiny fabric, suitable for making linen and scarves. It is very popular with batik masters.

There are other types of fabric: gas, organza, silk-viscose, excelsior, brocade, chescha.

Areas of use

The areas of application of silk are numerous:

Making clothes. Both winter and summer clothes are made from silk fabrics, since this material maintains a comfortable temperature for the body in any weather. In addition, silk products have an attractive appearance, absorb unpleasant odors, prevent the growth of bacteria on the skin and do not cause allergies.
Medicine. Silk has disinfectant and bactericidal properties, which is why it is used as a suture material in surgery (even in such delicate areas as eye or neurosurgery). Threads made from the outer or inner fiber of the cocoon - burette silk - are best suited for performing surgical sutures.
Home textiles. This hypoallergenic material, which does not breed bugs and dust mites, is great for making home textiles. Curtains, roller blinds, bed linen, furniture covers, bedspreads are sewn from dense silk.

Advantages and disadvantages of natural silk

Material advantages:

Cons of silk:

expensive;
needs special careful care;
does not tolerate washing in very hot water;
requires accuracy when ironing;
loses strength with prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation;
becomes contaminated when liquid or sweat comes into contact with the surface.

Despite the fact that silk products have a number of disadvantages, this fabric remains popular all over the world.

Silk is a delicate fabric that requires careful wear and careful care. The main recommendations for the care of silk things are as follows:

wash by hand at a temperature not exceeding 30ºС or in a typewriter in the "Delicate wash" or "Silk" mode;
do not use ordinary alkaline powder for washing: you need to purchase a cleaning agent with the inscription "for silk";
do not use bleach and fabric softener;
do not wrinkle, twist and squeeze the material strongly so as not to spoil its structure;
to dry a silk product, it is advisable to wrap it in a towel, allow excess moisture to absorb, and then put the thing on a horizontal surface and leave to dry;
silk can be ironed in the “Silk” mode without steam, it is forbidden to iron a wet product;
after washing, colored silk should be rinsed in cool water with the addition of vinegar (5 tablespoons of 9% vinegar per 10 liters of water).

If you take proper care of silk products, they will serve you for many years.

In retail stores, on almost every second shawl or scarf made of translucent fabric, you can see the inscription. In this case, the price can be from 150 rubles to 10,000 rubles. Is the price range too wide? And what is REALLY hidden behind this label?

Since not every woman can visually determine whether it is real silk, manufacturers often use this. As a result, behind the label 100% silk very often turn out to be rayon, viscose or, even worse, pure synthetics. At the same time, stores selling such scarves, as a rule, do not know how to distinguish the material for authenticity and do not want to bother with it, because the main thing for them is to sell the goods, and not take care of the buyer. Unfortunately, among today's abundance of shopping centers, there are very few stores left that really care what they sell and who appreciate the quality of the goods and, most importantly, their customers. Therefore, if you are looking for a handkerchief, a scarf made of natural silk, and not a silk label, if you want to be sure of the authenticity of the material, you need a little knowledge and practice.

In fact, a professional can distinguish natural silk just by touching the fabric, but everything comes with experience ...

FEELINGS WHILE WEARING

To fully understand and feel the difference between natural and synthetic materials is possible only in the process of wearing. A scarf, even made of the highest quality viscose, will not protect against the cold, will not provide sufficient air access and comfortable conditions. A scarf or stole made of synthetics (including acrylic) is the most unreasonable purchase. Synthetics do not breathe at all. Therefore, in warm weather, you will be stuffy and hot, sweating will increase, and in cool weather, on the contrary, you will freeze.

A scarf or handkerchief made of natural silk really caresses your skin. Such a scarf "breathes", it is comfortable in any weather. Silk has amazing and incomparable natural properties. The main one is thermoregulation, that is, maintaining the optimal body temperature for a person. Just as a silk cocoon protects a butterfly from the weather and maintains the optimum temperature for its maturation, silk will also protect you. Wearing a silk scarf, you won't want to take it off. You will immediately feel the difference! Also, silk does not cause allergies and slows down the aging process. And do not forget the main beauty of natural silk - how delightfully it shimmers in the sun! It shimmers, and does not shine like viscose. will serve you for many years (5-7 years), while retaining its rich color and overflow. Over time, it will become a favorite part of your wardrobe.

One of the simplest and most reliable ways to determine the naturalness of a material is a combustion test. Pay attention to two key points. HOW it burns and WHAT it smells like.

COMBUSTION TEST

SILK

Take the stole by the fringe or tassel and set it on fire. A natural silk scarf almost does not burn - it only smolders weakly without a flame. If you remove the source of fire, real silk stops burning.- this is the main difference between natural silk and viscose or rayon. At the same time, a specific smell is felt - the same as that of singed hair, singed horn, wool, skins. At the tip of a set fire to a silk thread, you can see a charred ball - it is fragile and easily rubbed between the fingers.

The most difficult thing is to distinguish silk from viscose or "artificial silk". After all, these materials were created specifically to imitate silk.

VISCOSE

Viscose was created to imitate silk. This is a cheap artificial raw material. Viscose burns well, forming a flame. If the source of fire is removed, the viscose continues to burn. The smell of burnt paper is distinctly audible. After the burning of the thread, an ember remains in the form of white-gray ash, which is also easily rubbed between the fingers.

SYNTHETICS (POLYESTER, POLYACRYL, ETC.)

Any synthetic fibers burn quickly and melt like plastic. At the end of a burning synthetic thread, a plastic mass slowly forms. As it cools, it turns into a hard ball that cannot be crushed.

Also, one of the common tricks of manufacturers is to use natural silk in half with synthetics or viscose, while 100% silk is also written on the label, but the cost of the scarf is sharply reduced, which is good for the manufacturer, and the retail price remains the same. However, such a shawl or scarf in all properties is much inferior to a natural silk scarf. This is the same if a synthetic lining is sewn to a silk dress. Outside it is beautiful, but the whole point of silk disappears, since synthetics absolutely do not breathe and you will be very uncomfortable in warm weather, in addition to this, profuse sweating has not decorated anyone yet. Any scarf or scarf consists of longitudinal and transverse threads. Therefore, it is better to carry out a combustion test for both types of threads.

WOOL OR SYNTHETICS?

WOOL

Most often, acrylic is given out for wool, or high-quality polyester that imitates wool. The easiest way to check wool for naturalness is with a burn test.

Take the stole by the fringe or tassel and set it on fire. Pay attention to two key points. HOW it burns and WHAT it smells like. Wool burns weakly, almost without a flame. If you remove the source of fire, the wool immediately stops burning. There is a specific smell of burnt skin. A coal is formed at the end of the burnt thread, which is easily rubbed between the fingers.

Do not forget that wool is a fiber created by nature itself for warmth and protection from the weather.

ACRYLIC, POLYESTER - SYNTHETICS

Acrylic and high quality polyester are 100% synthetics designed to mimic wool. However, only tactile sensations are imitated; according to the properties of synthetics, they remain synthetics and cannot be compared with natural wool. This means that in cold or dank weather, an acrylic or polyester stole will not warm you, the wind and cold will make their way through the stole. At the same time, in warm weather, you will become sharply hot and uncomfortable, since synthetics do not allow oxygen to pass through. Also, synthetics can cause itching, irritation, allergies if you have sensitive skin.

Recognizing acrylic or polyester is very easy. Take the stole by the fringe or tassel and set it on fire. Any synthetic fibers burn quickly and melt like plastic. At the end of a burning synthetic thread, a plastic mass is formed. As it cools, it transforms into a hard plastic ball that cannot be crushed.

COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS OF MATERIALS

Material properties	Silk	Wool	Synthetics	Viscose
Hygroscopicity. The ability to absorb moisture. The parameter affects wearing comfort and the degree of heat/cool retention.	high, up to 40% of its own weight	high, up to 33% of its own weight. neutralizes toxic substances released with human sweat	low, not more than 5% of its own weight	moderate, 12-14% of own weight
Breathability. The ability to pass air, that is, to breathe	increased	increased	low	average
Hypoallergenic. Does not cause allergies even for sensitive skin		May cause irritation in people prone to wool allergies	may cause allergies, depending on the composition of the material. Causes irritation and redness on sensitive skin.	chemical composition can cause allergies
Strength	high strength, no stretch, no deformation	high	average strength	high strength, but when wet, it is lost
Aesthetics	Silk is distinguished not only by its brilliance, but also by overflows (especially visible when draped and in sunlight), which no other natural or synthetic material has. Overflows of silk do not remain for the entire period of wear, including after washing	High-quality wool with proper care will retain its appearance for a long time	It loses its appearance very quickly.	visually resembles silk, it can shine, but does not shimmer.
Antibacterial	antibacterial, hygienic, does not attract dust, destroys bacteria. Can be used for babies.	It has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory properties. Wool contains healthy lanolin, which is an excellent natural antiseptic.	bacteriostatic, prevents the growth of bacteria, but does not destroy them	resistant to chemicals and microorganisms
electrified	not electrified	not electrified	accumulate static electricity	high electrification during wear
thermoregulation(warmth/coolness)	Silk is a fiber created by nature to provide and maintain a comfortable body temperature for a living organism. Does not release a person's own heat.	Wool fibers have a very low thermal conductivity, i. neither frost nor heat (in a sauna, for example) pass through the woolen barrier to the body and, at the same time, the wool does not release our own heat and maintains a very comfortable body temperature.	Will not warm in the cold, in the heat causes severe sweating and itching	Average thermal insulation. Cannot withstand low temperatures
Degree of wearing comfort	High. On the body like a "second skin"	High. Keeps warm and comfortable for a long time	Low. Causes itching, irritation	Medium