The sequence of sewing a men's shirt. The order of sewing a men's shirt. Side cut line

Among the most diverse models of men's clothing, the shirt has been and remains a versatile and comfortable piece of clothing that should always be in the wardrobe of any man. A shirt combined with a business suit or jeans can complement both the formal style and the casual look of a man.

Not everyone knows how to sew it with their own hands, not every craftswoman can do it. Men's shirt requires knowledge of the basics of cutting and sewing. It has a lot of important small details that require proper and accurate processing. Today we will talk about how to properly cut and sew such a shirt.

For a shirt, take a not very dense cotton fabric.

How to sew a men's shirt with your own hands

To make a men's shirt beautiful, make a pattern and transfer it to thick paper. Lay out the pattern on the fabric and, taking into account the allowances for the seams, circle them with chalk.

Here is a simple men's shirt pattern:

The collar needs special attention. To make it dense and keep its shape well, glue it with interlining.

Open the sides of the shirt and prepare the slats. Iron the finished bar on the right shelf, on the wrong side and stitch.

If you are making a yoke on a shirt, then decide what it will be, single or double. If you are sewing a single yoke, then smooth the seam allowances of the shelf onto the yoke.

Sew a double yoke as follows. First, roll up the front pieces onto the yoke, then place the second piece of the yoke inside out over the first front and the twisted front pieces. Stitch the coquettes and turn through the neck. After that, you need to iron the yoke and stitch it.

Pin the details of the sleeves to the armholes and sew, ironing the seam allowance on the armhole.

The collar is sewn to the neck with the help of a stand. First, the collar is sewn to the stand. The edge of the stand is folded over to cover the seam of the collar, and then attached to the neckline.

To process the bottom of the shirt, carefully fold the shelves and back, align and cut off the excess.

Cuffs, as well as a collar, strengthen with interlining.

Sewing a shirt is difficult, but with patience and accuracy, it is quite possible.

It remains to outline the places of the loops, cut and process them, sew on the buttons. Congratulations, the men's shirt is ready!

Video instructions

Master class for beginners:

Kosovorotka with embroidery:

There is no better gift for a man than a handmade gift. Especially if it's a stunning stylish shirt with a fitted silhouette, made with him in mind!

How to sew a men's shirt: taking measurements

To build a pattern for a men's fitted shirt, you need to take the following measurements:

Height - 180 cm
Chest circumference (OG) - 102 cm
Waist circumference (FROM) - 94 cm
Sleeve length (DR) - 65 cm
Neck girth (OS) - 42 cm
Back length to waist - 47 cm
Wrist girth - 19 cm
Product length - 65 cm

Auxiliary measurements for constructing a pattern of a men's fitted shirt must be calculated using the formulas:

Back width (SHSp) \u003d 2/10 OG - 1 cm (for OG up to 112 cm) \u003d 1/10 OG + 10.5 cm (for OG more than 112 cm)

Armhole width (SHPr) = 1/10 OG + 2 cm

Chest width (SHG) \u003d 2/10 OG - 1 cm (for OG up to 112 cm) \u003d 1/2 OG - ShSp - ShPr (for OG more than 112 cm)

Armhole depth (Gpr) = (1/10 OG + 12) + 3 (for all sizes)

Back neck length (DGsp) = 1/6 Neck girth

The increase in the freedom of fitting a men's fitted shirt should be 5 - 5.5 cm. Important! The grid width is 1/2 OG + 5.5 cm = 52 + 5.5 = 57.5 cm.

Freedom of fit for a men's shirt:

Calculation of initial values:

Back width = 102/10 ∗ 2 - 1 = 19.4 cm

Armhole width = 102/10 + 2 = 12.2 cm

Chest width = 102/10 ∗ 2 - 1 = 19.4 cm

After performing the calculations, it is necessary to check their correctness. To do this, add the obtained values. The amount should be equal to the half-girth of the chest according to the measurement.

Examination: 19.4 + 12.2 + 19.4 = 51cm

Additionally, the depth of the armhole is calculated with an increase (Gpr) = 102/10 + 12 + 3 = 25.2 cm.

Back neck length (DGsp) = 42/6 = 7 cm.

We build a base pattern

Rice. 1. Pattern-basis of a men's shirt

Draw a grid with a width equal to 1/2 OG + 5.5 cm for the freedom of fitting the shirt and a length equal to the desired length of the shirt according to the measurements: AB \u003d 102/2 + 5.5 \u003d 51 + 5.5 \u003d 56.5 cm. AD \u003d 65 cm (length of the shirt to measure).

From point A, lay down the Depth of the armhole AG \u003d 102/10 +12 +3 \u003d 25.2 cm, The length of the back of the shirt to the waist according to the measurement AT \u003d 47 cm. Draw lines GG1, TT1, G2P, G3P2.

From point G1 from right to left, set aside the width of the back of a men's shirt with an increase of GG2 \u003d 102 / 10x2 - 1 + 1.3 \u003d 20.7 cm, the width of the armhole of a men's shirt with an increase of G2G3 \u003d 102/10 + 2 + 3.5 \u003d 15.7 cm.

Shirt side line G4 = G2G3/2. Draw the line G4H1.

From point B to the left, set aside the calculated value of the length of the neck of the back + 1 cm: BB1 \u003d 7 + 1 \u003d 8 cm.

Set aside 2 cm from point B1: B1B2 = 2 cm.

Shoulder slope From point P, lay down 3 cm: PP1 = 3 cm.

Divide the depth lines of the armhole PG2 and P2G3 into 5 equal parts. Draw a horizontal line 1.5 cm long from the lower division point of PG2, draw a horizontal line 0.7 cm long from the middle division point. Draw a line for the armhole of the back of a men's shirt using the pattern.

From point A down, set aside the length of the neck of the back + 2 cm for all sizes AA1 \u003d 7 + 2 \u003d 9 cm and to the right - the length of the neck of the back (DGsp \u003d 7 cm). Connect the obtained points with a line, divide the line in half and set aside 1.7 cm at a right angle. Draw a neckline for the front of a men's shirt according to the pattern.

Set aside 4 cm from point P2 down - point P3. Draw a shoulder line on the front of the shirt, equal in length to the length of the back shoulder.

According to the pattern, draw an armhole in front of a men's shirt, which passes through the middle point of division P2G3 to point G4.

On the side at the level of the waist line, set aside 2 cm to the left and 1.5 cm to the right for tucks. Connect the obtained points with the points G4 and H1 with smooth curved lines.

Divide the back of the shirt in half along the waist and set aside 1.5 cm from the obtained point to the left and right to the tuck. The length of the tuck up 17-18 cm.

IMPORTANT! Measure the width of the mesh along the bottom of the shirt. HH2 should be 1/2 OB +2 cm. If the value obtained is less, it is necessary to expand the shirt on the sides.

In the middle of the front, it is necessary to give an increase to the bar, making an increase to the middle of the front - 4.5 cm. The width of the bar in finished form is 3 cm. The bar can be one-piece or stitched. In the second case, the bar must be cut off and cut out separately.

pattern modeling

Rice. 2. How to sew a men's shirt: modeling

Set aside 2 cm along the armhole in front of the shirt and along the neckline from the shoulder. Draw a horizontal line. Cut off the resulting part and glue it along the shoulder line of the back.

Set aside 7 cm along the middle seam of the back from the neck - the width of the yoke. Draw a horizontal line.

Set aside 1-1.5 cm down the armhole from the yoke line. Draw a smooth line along the pattern. Cut off the yoke from the back. In the middle of the back, make an increase of 3 cm per crease. Cut out the back with a fold in the center. The width of the fold in the finished form is 3 cm.

On the bottom of the shirt with the help of a template, setting aside 4 cm up the sides, draw a figured line of the bottom of the shirt.

Cut out the front and back of the shirt without a yoke, additionally cut out two details of the yoke (the yoke in men's shirts is made double - in two layers of fabric).

Men's shirt sleeve pattern

Rice. 3. Sleeve pattern for a men's shirt

Measure the length of the armhole on the drawing. Based on the measured value of the armhole, calculate the Height of the armhole OO1 \u003d 1/3 of the length of the armhole according to the drawing minus 5 cm, and the Length of the auxiliary line of the armhole OP and OP1 \u003d 1/2 of the length of the armhole according to the drawing.

From point O (the highest point of the collar of the shirt sleeve) down, set aside the calculated Height of the collar - point O1. Draw a horizontal line through point O1 - PP1.

From the point O to the left and to the right, set aside the calculated value of the length of the auxiliary line of the collar of the sleeve of the shirt OP and OP1.

From point O down, set aside the length of the sleeve according to the measure minus 1 cm.

The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the length of the cuff of the sleeve + 4 cm by two folds. Divide the resulting value in half and set aside to the left and right of the H point.

IMPORTANT! The length of the cuff is calculated as follows: The circumference of the wrist to measure + 2 cm for freedom of fit + 3 cm for the fastener.

Sleeve section - HH1 divided in half. The cut line is 10-12 cm long.

Draw a line around the sleeve as shown in the pattern drawing.

Shirt cuff pattern

Rice. 4. Pattern of the cuff of a men's fitted shirt

On the drawing of the cuff pattern, the construction of a cuff for a cufflink and the construction of a simple cuff are given. AB is equal to the circumference of the wrist according to the measure + 2 cm for freedom of fit + 3 cm for the fastener.

collar pattern

Rice. 5. Shirt collar pattern

Measure the length of the neckline of the front of the shirt with the finished placket and the back of the shirt. Build the stand-up collar and the collar of the men's shirt as shown in the drawing of pattern 4.

The stand-up collar is cut out separately, the collar of the men's shirt is cut out separately.

A shirt is an outer garment that always has sleeves. It can be both warm and light, and is also worn by both sexes in the modern world.
Sewing a shirt with your own hands is not so difficult. First you need to decide what kind of shirt you want to end up with. In this article, we will present the most popular options: how to sew a shirt for women, for men, a christening shirt and a dress shirt.

How to sew a men's shirt with your own hands

To sew a men's shirt with your own hands you will need:

textile;
sewing threads;
scissors;
sewing machine;
pattern;
ruler;
pins.

patterns

Patterns can be drawn on paper or newspaper with a pencil or pen. Make sure the pattern is absolutely symmetrical.

Measurements to be taken from a man:

height;
chest girth (OG);
waist circumference (FROM);
sleeve length (DR);
neck girth (OSh);
back length to waist;
wrist girth (OZ);
shoulder length (DP);
length of the product.

The length of the sleeve and product is measured taking into account the estimated lengths, it can also be measured on a man's factory shirts. Also measure the length of the back to the waist (from the shoulders).
Next, we give auxiliary measurements that are calculated from the main ones and are needed to create patterns:

back width (SHSp). For an exhaust gas less than 112 cm, it is considered as an exhaust gas multiplied by 0.2 and minus 1 cm. If an exhaust gas is greater than 112 cm, then the SHSP is considered as an exhaust gas multiplied by 0.1 and plus 10.5 cm;
armhole width (SHPr). It equals the OG multiplied by 0.1 and plus 2 cm;
chest width (SHG). For an exhaust gas less than 112 cm, it is considered as an exhaust gas multiplied by 0.2 and minus 1 cm. If an exhaust gas is greater than 112 cm, then the SPR is considered as an exhaust gas multiplied by 0.5 minus SSP and minus SPR;
armhole depth (GPr). It is considered as OG multiplied by 0.1 and plus 15 cm;
back neck length (DGsp). It is equal to one sixth of the OG;
cuff length (DM). It is calculated as OZ plus 5 cm.

In addition, in order for a man to be able to freely wear a shirt, the following increases must be made:

5.5 cm for exhaust gas;
1.3 cm for SHSP;
3.5 cm for SPR;
0.7 cm for SHG;
3 cm for SPR.

Building a pattern for the main part of the shirt

Do the calculations, and then you can verify that the results are correct. To do this, add up the calculated values of SHsp, SHPr, SHGr. You should get 0.5 OG
To facilitate the construction of the pattern of the main part of the shirt, draw a grid as in the figure below, where the distance between AB is multiplied by 0.5 OG plus 5.5 cm, and AH is equal to the length of the future shirt.
The distance from A to D is the GPR, and from A to T is the length of the back to the waist. Draw horizontal lines from G, T and a vertical line from B, mark points G1 and T1 at their intersection, respectively.
On the GG1 line, mark the points G3, G4 and G2 (as shown in the figure) so that from G to G3 the distance is WGR plus 0.7 cm, from G3 to G2 - SPR plus 3.5 cm. It should turn out that from G2 to G1, the distance is equal to ShSp plus 1.3 cm. Point G4 is marked in the center of the G3G2 line.
From G4 down draw (perpendicular to GG1) a line to the intersection with H, call the resulting point H1. The point where the lines TT1 and G4H1 intersect is denoted by T2. Set aside 2 cm to the left of T2 and mark the point through T3, and 1.5 cm to the right and mark it as T4, and draw a line from G4 to H1 along the pattern through T3 and T4 (as shown in the figure).
To the left of point B, set aside DGsp plus 1 cm, the resulting point is marked as B1. Set aside 2 cm upwards from point B1 - this point is marked as B2 and a curved line is drawn through it to B along the pattern according to the figure.
From G3, lay a line up (perpendicular to GG1) until it intersects with the line AB, call the resulting point P2. Also, exactly from G2, lay a line up to the intersection with AB and designate it as P.
Distinguish 3 cm down from point P, call the resulting point P1. Connect B2 and P1 along the ruler and draw further so that this line is equal to DP plus 0.5 cm in length. The end point is indicated by B3.
From P2, lay down 4 cm and designate the point as P3. From point A, set aside DGsp and designate the point as A2. Connect A2 to point P3 (as shown in the figure) and draw further, taking into account that the distance should be equal to DP plus 0.5 cm. The end point is indicated by A3.
Divide the armhole lines (PG2 and P2G3) into 5 equal parts (in the figure, equal segments are marked with crosses, mark points C1, C2, C3 and C4 as shown). Set aside horizontally 1.5 cm from C1 to the left, 0.7 cm from C2, then draw a curve through the obtained points using a pattern until it intersects B3 at one end and G4 at the other.
Set aside 0.5 cm from C3 and draw a curve along the pattern through the obtained point and C4 until it intersects with A3 from one end and G4 from the other.
From point A, lay down DGsp plus 2, mark the resulting point as A1. Connect according to the pattern A2 and A1.
Make an allowance for the bar - from point A1 set aside 4.5 cm to the left and draw down to the level of HH2 and connect to point H as shown in the figure.
If you want a pocket, place it as shown in the picture (5.5 cm from the D-point, pocket 12 cm wide, 15 cm long).

Building a sleeve pattern

Measure the length of the armhole on the pattern of the main part. 1/3 of the value obtained minus 5 cm is the distance OO1 on the sleeve pattern shown below, and the length of the armhole of the main drawing, multiplied by 0.5 and minus 2 cm, is the length of the lines O1P and O1P1.
Focusing on the presented sleeve pattern, lay down a horizontal line from point O to point H through point O1 (the distance to which has already been indicated earlier). The distance from O to H is calculated as DR minus 1.
From point O1, set aside to the left and right (perpendicular to the OH line) the calculated values of O1P and O1P1. Designate the obtained points as P and P1, respectively. Connect points O with P and P1 using a pattern according to the figure.
From the point H, set aside to the left and right (also perpendicular to the OH line) two points (in the figure it is H1 and symmetrical to it), assuming that the distance to them is the length of the cuff of the sleeve, which is multiplied by 0.5 and plus 4 cm.
Mark the cutting line at half the distance HH1. The length of the cut is 10-12 cm.

Building a cuff pattern

The cuff pattern is built according to the figure below. Two variants of the cuff are given: with or without a cufflink. The distance AB is equal to DM.

Construction of a collar pattern

The collar pattern is built according to the figure below, where AB equals DGsp plus 1.5 cm, and AD equals BC for all shirt sizes and equals 11 cm.

Making a shirt

Product stitching process

After you draw all the above patterns, cut out and, pinned to the fabric with pins, cut off the corresponding blanks (remember that you should have two pieces for each part, and also do not forget to cut out the pocket separately).

Try on the pocket (if it is intended) and parts of the collar and sew to the main part in the appropriate places. Sweep and grind tucks. Then you need to sweep the main part along the side and shoulder seams and stitch. Sew the sleeves at the seam, but why sew into the armholes of the shirt.

How to sew a women's shirt with your own hands

To understand how to sew a women's shirt, you can familiarize yourself with the material presented above about a men's shirt. The principle of pattern development is almost the same, with only minor changes. You can learn more about the pattern of a women's shirt here: http://korfiati.ru/2008/12/kak-sshit-bluzku/.
Pattern details are also sewn on a sewing machine in the same way as a men's shirt.

How to sew a shirt dress with your own hands

There are many different variations of dress shirts, below is one of the possible.
To sew a shirt dress with your own hands you will need:

textile;
sewing threads;
scissors;
sewing machine;
paper (or newspaper) and a pencil (or pen) for a pattern;
pattern;
ruler;
pins.

patterns

Draw the patterns for the shirt dress pieces as shown below.

Sizes are taken and put down in the same way as a men's shirt.

In total, you should get the following details:

back - 1 detail;
before - 1 detail;
sleeve - 2 parts;
collar - 2 parts;
pocket - 1 detail.

Product stitching process

Cut out patterns, and then, pinning them to the fabric, cut out all the indicated details in the appropriate amount.
Then everything is done with a sewing machine.
Try on the pocket and parts of the collar and sew to the dress in the appropriate places. Sweep and grind tucks. Sweep the dress along the side and shoulder seams, stitch. Sew the sleeves along the seam, but why sew into the armholes of the dress.

How to sew a baptismal shirt with your own hands

To sew a baptismal shirt with your own hands you will need:

fabric (white, material of your choice, but must be thin enough, standard use
cambric, calico or thin poplin);
sewing threads (white);
scissors;
sewing machine;
paper (or newspaper) and a pencil (or pen) for a pattern;
ruler;
pins.

However, many people want to sew not just a baptismal shirt, but also decorate it. For this you will additionally need:

embroidery threads (usually gold);
Embroidery Machine;
detachable stabilizer;
iron;
hoop;
needle;
ribbon or lace.

Pattern

The pattern can be drawn on paper or newspaper with a pencil or pen. Make sure the pattern is absolutely symmetrical.

Measures to be taken from the child:

chest girth (OG);
neck girth (OSh);
arm circumference (OR);
length (estimated length of the christening shirt, if you want to knee length - measure from shoulders to knees).

Draw a pattern on paper, adhering to the following principles:

the width of the shirt is OG plus 10 cm (if you do not want a too loose shirt, you can add 7 cm);
add 2 cm to the OSH - this is the width of the round neck;
We set aside 2 cm from the top of the neck deep and draw a smooth rounded line (if it is not entirely clear, look in the pattern diagram below);
add 8 cm to the OP - this is the width of the sleeve;
the length of the sleeve is half the exhaust gas. Here, too, if desired, you can add 2 cm;
there should be a rounding in the transition area from the main part to the sleeve. Set aside 1/6 of the OG from the point of intersection of the sleeve and the main part towards the sleeve and down towards the bottom edge. The resulting points must be connected with a smooth round line (if it is not entirely clear, look in the pattern diagram below);
The length of the shirt is up to you. It is recommended to add 2 cm to the intentional, but it is not necessary. The standard length of a christening shirt is 40-50 cm.

As a result, the pattern will look something like this, where your dimensions will be marked:

The process of making a baptismal shirt

After completing the pattern, it should be cut out and attached to the white fabric chosen for the shirt. Fold it in half to make sure that the pattern is completely symmetrical, if it is not, then carefully adjust to achieve symmetry. Remember that there should be enough fabric on the front and back of the product. Fold the fabric in half and pin the pattern to it with pins so that the base of the neck of the product and future sleeves are on the fold line (in the pattern figure this line is marked in red). Carefully trace everything along the contour, except for the lines marked in red in the pattern drawing. Peel off the pattern and cut along the lines you marked. Straighten the bend, you should get approximately as in the figure given below.

After that, fold the shirt again along the fold line and carefully sew the lines from the wrong side on the typewriter (the side on which you will sew will be the wrong side), marked in the image with red and blue numbers (i.e. line 5 is sewn with line 3, 6 with 2, 7 with 1, and 9 with 15, 10 with 14, 11 with 13) retreating from the edge of about 1 cm. The lines marked in green and purple remain unsewn, however, if you are not going to decorate the shirt, then these lines should be swept.
Turn the stitched shirt inside out (the seams should be inside). If no shirt decorations are planned, then the baptismal shirt is ready.

Christening Gown Decorations

This is an optional part, but makes the shirt more beautiful. With embroidery threads, you can depict a certain pattern, as a rule, this is a cross. If you have an embroidery machine, then embroider a golden cross on the stabilizer using it, then remove the excess part of the stabilizer and sew on the cross. Attach the cross to the front of the baptismal shirt and through an additional layer of fabric (you can take a piece left from the shirt) iron the cross with an iron. This way it sticks to the shirt. If you don't have an embroidery machine, you can make a cross by hand using a hoop, gold thread and a needle.
A ribbon or lace can be carefully sewn to the neck using a machine. Optionally, you can make a cut in the neckline in front, if you make it, then do not forget to sew a ribbon or lace on the cut. Next, sew ribbons or lace to the sleeves and hem using a sewing machine as well.
Your baptismal shirt is ready!

If you undertake to sew a men's shirt, then you need to do this for a rating from “good” to “excellent”. Tune in to a high result, otherwise it’s not worth it to take on tailoring. A do-it-yourself shirt for a man is not out of poverty and not out of economy, but out of great love for your man and the desire to dress him, as in the best Neapolitan ateliers.

Smooth seams, no protruding threads, clear stitching, comfortable pattern. And a lot of nuances that an ordinary person will not pay attention to, but we will consider them (and apply!) All of them.

Sewing sequence for a classic men's shirt

1.Shirt cut.

In different models, the cut may contain the following details:

back, front halves -2 details, placket, yoke, collar, collar stand, sleeves, cuffs, pockets.

If you are having difficulty building a pattern, then take it, but remember that the best pattern is individually built.

Tip: when sewing a shirt, do not immediately cut the sleeves and collar. The fact is that after trying on, there will certainly be corrections of landing and increases in freedom (more / less). The armhole can be enlarged and a larger neckline made.
I cut out the details of the collar and sleeves after adjusting the fit and measuring the lengths of the neck and armholes. That's right.

Textile. Cotton, linen. For gourmets - silk. For sports polo shirts - cotton or viscose jersey. I am for natural fabrics, and I don’t even recommend using a mixture of cotton and polyester.
Seam allowances: side seams, bottom, sleeves - 1.2 -1.5 cm each. Neckline, collar, cuffs - 0.8 - 1 cm each.

2. plank one-piece, undercut or simple one-piece selection. I suppose to do separate master classes on all types of fasteners.
The strap width is comfortable 3 - 3.5 cm. Do not forget to glue the pick with a soft doubler, then the loops and buttons will be clearer and stronger.

3. Yoke

Detailed in the master class. You need to cut out 2 equal parts of the yoke and sew them in this way with the main parts of the back and front, so that all the seam allowances are between the parts of the yoke. No overclocking, of course. A well-tailored shirt does not have a single overlock seam at all.

4. waybill pocket on the shelf, if it is provided in the shirt model. Master Class:.

5. Collar.
Most likely, you will sew a collar with a stand.

Before cutting the stand and collar, do not forget to measure the length of the neck along an imaginary sewing line. It is convenient to measure the neck when folded with a centimeter tape “on the edge”

measure neck length.

To help you sew a collar, the most detailed

If your model is a polo shirt, then help in the master class

6. process the cut of the sleeve

At this stage, while the sleeves are still “open”, it is very convenient to outline and make a clasp in the form of a strap or just process the cut.

So you can process the cut of the sleeve in a simple classic way.
Sleeve cut - on the elbow (back) part of the sleeve, approximately one quarter from the length of the lower cut. Pintuck or iron the tucks, equalizing the width of the sleeve at the bottom and the length of the cuff.
Bend the cut from the larger side of the cut inside out, no more than 2-3 mm and stitch up to the point of the cut, reducing the allowance “to nothing”.
Turn the sleeve over to the wrong side and stitch the allowance of the second side of the cut, capturing the first allowance at the end of the line in the hem, by about 0.5 cm. It’s easier to see once than to read a hundred times:

There are a lot of fastening options. Here you have a number of master classes, choose according to your taste and according to your abilities.

– – classic plank
–This is an imitation plank. It's easy to do and looks pretty.

– one of the easy options. Biased trim in contrasting fabric adds personality to a shirt or blouse.

7. Sew the sleeve into the armhole.
The sleeve is cut to a specific armhole. We measure the valley of the armhole and compare it with the length of the armhole. But don't forget the sleeve width! To the circumference of the arm at the top, an increase in freedom of fit (PSO) of at least 4 centimeters is put.
The fact is that fitting along the rim in men's shirts is not needed, but it is acceptable by 1 cm. And you need to choose the following proportions in the sleeve: “armhole length = rim length / arm circumference at the top plus PSO. ”
This is not as simple a task as it seems. Increase the depth of the armhole, lower the height of the eyelet - if necessary. In a word, think and make a decision.
we sew the sleeve with a seam, from the inside. Moreover, the second line should go along the yoke, and not along the sleeve.
fit an eye no more than 1 cm
sew the sleeve into the armhole
seam seam sleeve
sleeve sewn into the armhole

8. Side seam.
It is carried out with a single line that grinds the side sections and the sleeve.
However, it is possible to swap points 7 and 8, and this will also be correct: first - the side seams, and then - the sleeve into the armhole.
If the shirt is in a cage, then pay close attention to the combination of the pattern.
back seam
single seam sleeves and sides
pattern alignment

9. cuffs
Can be sewn on:
men's shirt cuff
and if you are sewing a shirt for a child or a women's blouse:
In this case, you do not have to process the incision.
10. Clasp: loops, buttons.
Everything is simple here, the main thing is to make markings at the same distance from each other and at least 1.5 cm from the edge of the side. Sew on the buttons “on the leg” with a regular toothpick.

In this material we will talk about modeling classic women's shirts. You will learn about the features of this type of product and the options for the execution of individual components. And we offer you to sew such a universal model of an adjacent silhouette!

It is no secret that we, women, borrowed many elements of the wardrobe from men - trousers, ties, T-shirts and shirts, a jacket as a variation on the theme of a man's jacket, a coat as an interpretation of a military overcoat and much more ... Many of us wear all this with pleasure, because who value convenience and comfort!

The prototype of a women's shirt-cut blouse is a classic men's top shirt. Distinctive features of this type of clothing are:

Symmetry of cut details
Fastening to the top on a detachable or one-piece placket with loops and buttons
The sleeve, as a rule, is of a shirt type - with an increased width in the upper part, and a reduced height of the eye (for tightly fitting models this is not always the case, but we will talk about this a little later)
The bottom of the sleeve is made with a slit and processed with a cuff with 1-2 loops and buttons.
Back with a yoke, while the shoulder seam is most often shifted towards the front
Stand-up collar with a detachable (less often - one-piece) stand

As for the shaping of the camp and the degree of fit, options are possible here.

It can be a shirt without the use of reliefs and darts, the so-called "flat cut" - a larger or smaller volume. To model such a shirt, you will need a pattern-base of a dress without darts, which you can website according to your own measurements. And you can read more about modeling such a shirt in our material about "".

In addition, it can be a shirt that follows the contours of a female figure, with darts or reliefs. And here, a variant less adjacent to the body is possible,

or a more tightly fitting product:

The shirt, on the basis of which we will comprehend the wisdom of modeling this type of product today, belongs to the second type - it has both waist darts and darts on the convex chest, due to which a rather tight fit is achieved. In more detail, you can see the model features of our shirt in the following figure.

It is clear that the appearance of the shirt is regulated in a rather rigid framework. However, small options in the form of designing the corners of the collar, the method of making the strap, the shape of the cuff and the technology for processing cuts for it are still possible here.

Let's begin to analyze the design of our shirt and, along the way, we will consider what other options for modeling this or that knot were possible, so that in the future you can adjust the model as you wish.

Mill Modeling

To model the shirt mill, we need pattern-basis of a dress of a semi-adjacent silhouette with an increase to the semicircle of the chest 5 cm.

You can build it yourself according to your own measurements, or get it online using this one. To do this, you will need to enter your measurements on this page. Instructions on how to remove them correctly can be found there. Your pattern will look something like the red and blue outlines in the following image.

Preparing the base pattern

Step 1 . If your pattern is longer than necessary, first of all, cut it to the desired length - this is about 20-22 cm from the waistline.

Step 2 . We will not take into account the tucks along the waist line and the side reliefs applied on the pattern - later we will distribute their solution in a slightly different way. However, we will need to write down the value of the quantity Ib , marked on the drawing - depending on the sign, it will be a surplus or a deficiency in the hips.

Step 3 . Expand the neck of the shelf and back by about 1 cm - they are shown in the drawing in green.

Step 4 . The tuck on the bulge of the chest on the shelf will be temporarily transferred to the neck.

Step 5 . We will close the tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades on the back (you can simply extend the shoulder line from the neckline by a distance equal to the total length of the shoulder on the back pattern). We will not designate the new contours of the tuck, since its solution will partially go into the relief between the details of the yoke and the back, and due to the rest, the line of the armhole of the back will slightly lengthen.

Adjustment of shoulder and armhole lines

Step 6 . We deepen the armhole by 2 cm - for this we lower the line under the armhole by 2 cm down. Denoting the width of the armhole (vertical dotted tangents in the drawing), mark its middle (red dot in the drawing).

Step 7 . Raise the shoulder line of the back by about 1.5 cm and lengthen it by 1-1.5 cm. And lower the shoulder line of the shelf by about 1.5 cm and also lengthen it by 1-1.5 cm. The extreme shoulder points are marked in red in the drawing .

Step 8 . Let's draw a new armhole line (shown in green) through the points marked in red in the drawing. Later we will remove a small section of this line to create a small relief in the area of the shoulder blades between the details of the yoke and back.

Back coquette modeling

Step 9 . Divide in half the line segment of the middle of the back between the neck line and the old line under the armhole (point a on the drawing).

Step 10 . From a point a draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the armhole line. This will be the bottom line of the coquette - the line connecting it with the back.

Step 11 . Divide the coquette line in half (dot b ) and set aside 1.5 cm horizontally from this point towards the armhole (point With ).

Step 12 . Set aside 0.5 cm down the armhole line from the point of its intersection with the yoke line (point d ).

Step 13 . Draw the top line of the back (the line of its connection with the yoke) through the dots a , With And d .

Bottom line styling

Step 14 . Mark the side line of the shirt - this is a vertical down from the point of the middle of the width of the armhole. On this line up from the line indicating the length of the shirt, set aside about 5 cm.

Step 15 . Draw a smooth line at the bottom of the shirt, making a rise at the side line to the point marked in the previous paragraph.

Step 16 . Now it's time to consider the magnitude Ib , which we measured and recorded in the second step of the mill simulation. There are 3 options here:

Value Ib zero. This option is shown in the previous drawing - in this case, the bottom line is continuous.
In case the value Ib positive surplus x And y A at the bottom.
In the event that the value Ib negative(in the width of the pattern grid along the hip line there is flaw), it will be necessary to postpone this value evenly on both sides of the side line along the bottom line (points x And y ) and draw the bottom lines again as shown in the diagram b at the bottom.

The design of the side lines and darts along the waistline

Step 17 . Draw a vertical from the point that bisects the line under the armhole between the line of the middle of the back and the line of the armhole - relative to this vertical we will draw the contours of the back tuck.

Step 18 . The vertical, relative to which we will draw the contours of the tail tuck of the shelf, will be lowered down from the point of the center of the chest.

Step 19 . Determine the total solution of tucks along the waist line. To do this, measure the width of the mesh on the pattern and compare it with your half-waist measurement. St :

rtv = (Grid Width) – ( St + increase)

In our case, the increase along the waist line P \u003d 3 cm, and the total solution of thallium tucks will be equal to rtv \u003d 47 - (31.7 + 3) \u003d 12.3 cm.

Step 20 . Let's distribute the total solution of the tucks along the waist line as follows: 30% of the total solution will fall on the tuck of the back, 37% - on the tuck of the shelf, 13% - to the relief of the side line of the back and 20% - to the relief of the side line of the shelf. The distribution of the tuck is shown in the drawing below.

Important note : Perhaps, such a distribution of tucks may not be suitable for your figure - when most of the total solution is distributed on the shelf. You can learn about this only by experience, or you can judge by the features of the figure (for example, if the figure is kinky, with buttocks strongly protruding back). In this case, you can leave the distribution of the tucks the same as on the base pattern, only transfer the solution of the side reliefs to the new position of the side seam line.

Step 21 . Draw the contours of the tucks and side lines, as shown in the figure. In this case, the tuck on the back will end about 6 cm above the line of the bottom of the shirt, and on the shelf - on this very line.

Step 22 . Set aside the side seam of the shelves 5 cm down from the armhole line. Let's draw a line from this point to the top of the chest tuck. This will be the line along which we will cut the pattern in order to transfer the tuck to the bulge of the chest in the side seam.

Step 23 . We transfer the tuck to the bulge of the chest in the side seam and shorten it by about 2.5-3 cm.

Step 24 . The previous drawing shows a case where we did not have an excess or deficiency of the width of the mesh along the hip line.

If flaw there is along the hip line (and we already marked it at the 16th step of modeling), the contours of the side lines will look like this, as shown in the diagram b below.
In the event that there is surplus width along the hips, you can simply draw the contours of the side lines through the points X And at that we noted earlier. And you can do it as shown in the diagram A below: distribute part of the excess at the side line, and transfer part to the lower contour of the waist tuck on the shelf.

Clasp strap modeling

Step 25 . From the line of the middle of the front - the line of the half-skid, which is shown in the drawing below with a red dotted line - we set aside the width of the fastener strap evenly on both sides (about 2.5 cm) and draw parallel lines to the left and right of it through the points obtained. Thus, we outlined the fastener bar with a width of 2.5 centimeters.

Step 26 . Mark the position of the buttons (and, accordingly, the loops) on the half-skid line through uniform sections. There are 8 of them in this model and they are marked with crosses in the drawing.

Step 27 . Reflect the contours of the plank relative to the line of the edge of the bead.

There are two main types of fastener straps in shirts, depending on the method of their manufacture - these are stitched straps (shown in the figure A below) and one-piece (pictures b, V at the bottom):

In case of fulfillment sewn strap (A) the shelf part will need to be cut along the line indicated by the scissors sign in the previous drawing - in this way, a plank part will be obtained, the fold line of which will be the line of the edge of the side. Allowances are added to the cuts of this part when cutting out. The diagram of its connection with the shelf is shown in the figure. A, while the connecting line is line 1, and at a distance of 1-2 mm from the line of the edge of the board, finishing line 2 is laid.
In our model one-piece plank, that is, we will cut out the part of the shelf in its entirety together with the contours of the plank, without forgetting to add seam allowances. When performing the plank, it is bent along the line of the edge of the board to the wrong side (figure b) or on the front (figure V) side and adjust to the main part, after bending the seam allowance. Variant shown in the picture V it is possible to perform only in the case of using double-sided - the same on both sides - fabric.

It should also be noted that the part of the strap is usually glued with an adhesive lining only if the product is made of a very thin fabric, for example, chiffon.

Sleeve construction

This model has a shirt cut of the sleeve, which is characterized, first of all, by a reduced collar height. It is clear that in order to keep the length of the arm sleeve unchanged when its height decreases, it is necessary to increase some other parameter of it - and this is the width of the sleeve at the top. A strong deformation of the eyelet requires a corresponding change in the armhole - its deepening, increasing the length of the shoulder.

Such a sleeve is built with a minimum fit along the collar and is sewn into an open armhole. This means that the shoulder seams are first connected, then the sleeve is sewn into the armhole, and only then the side seams of the camp and the sleeve are connected in one step.

Below are the options for changing the parameters of the prime-sleeve:

On the image A we see a model with a sleeve with a standard, not reduced eye height, the armhole is not deepened. In such a product, with the hands down, there are no folds on the sleeves in the upper part.
On the image b we see a sleeve with a reduced eye height, but the armhole is slightly deepened. As a result, such a product has free folds-creases in the armhole area, when the arms are raised in a horizontal position, the folds straighten out. This is normal for a shirt-type sleeve, because it is due to this that freedom of movement is achieved.
On the image V we see a loose shirt without darts with a sleeve in which the size of the collar is reduced to almost nothing. This is achieved by a significant lengthening of the shoulder; in fact, a design like a baby's undershirt is obtained.

For more close-fitting shirt models, the height of the eyelet will vary within 1/3 - 1/4 of the size of the armhole. We will consider the construction of just such a sleeve further.

The initial data for constructing a drawing of a shirt sleeve are:

Armhole length DP measured on the drawing of the mill. In our case, it consists of the lengths of the following curves: the armhole of the front, the section of the armhole of the yoke of the back, and the section of the armhole of the back itself. (In my example DP = 44.2 cm)
wrist circumference Ozap - a measure taken from the figure for which the pattern is being built. (In my example Ozap = 15.2 cm)
Arm length DRzap - a measure taken from the figure for which the pattern is being built. Measured from the shoulder point to the girth line of the wrist. (In my example DRzap = 57.8 cm)

Step 1 . mark a point t0 and from it down vertically set aside a distance equal to DRzap minus the cuff width plus 1.5 cm. The cuff width in our model will be equal to Shmanzh = 5.5 cm. Mark a point t1 . An increase of 1.5 cm is necessary so that the sleeve does not sit tight.

So, in our example: /t0;t1/ = DRzap – Shmanzh + 1.5 cm = 57.8 - 5.5 + 1.5 = 53.8 cm.

Step 2 . On the segment /t0;t1/ from the point t0 down, set aside a distance equal to the height of the eye of the sleeve THIEF and mark with a dot t2 . The sleeve height in this model will be equal to a quarter of the armhole length plus an increase:

/t1;t2/ = THIEF = DP /4 + P

The increase for a chest half-girth up to 42 cm inclusive will be 1 cm, for a chest half-girth from 42 to 44 cm - 2 cm, up to 46 cm - 3 cm, up to 50 cm - 4 cm and so on. So, for our example, the sleeve height will be equal to THIEF \u003d 44.2 / 4 + 1 cm \u003d 12 cm.

Step 3 . Through the dot t2 draw a horizontal line. From a point t0 set aside to this horizontal distance equal to half the length of the armhole and mark the points t3 And t4 . Line segment between points t3 And t4 called sleeve width at the top.

In our example: /t0;t3/ = /t0;t4/ = DP /2 = 44.2/2 = 22.1 cm.

Step 4 . Divide the segments /t0;t3/ and /t0;t4/ into 4 sections each. At the points obtained, lay off the segments along the perpendiculars to the lines /t0;t3/ and /t0;t4/ (up or down from them) in accordance with the drawing below. Through the points obtained, draw the line of the sleeves.

Step 5 . from point t2 set aside horizontally to the left and right along half the girth of the wrist, plus an increase. Mark these places t5 And t6 . In our model, we will take an increase in the girth of the wrist of 6 cm, so the value of the segments in our example will be equal to:

/t1;t5/ = /t1;t6/ = 1/2 ( Ozap + P) \u003d (15.2 + 6) / 2 \u003d 10.6 cm.

Step 6 . Draw the side lines of the sleeve between the points t3 And t5 , and t4 And t6 slightly curved lines.

Step 7 . Draw a cuff sewing line between the points t5 And t6 , bending it slightly (by about 0.7 cm) at the point t1 .

Step 8 . Divide the section of the cuff sewing line, located on the half of the sleeve facing the back, in half. Set aside 10-15 cm from the obtained point up perpendicular to the stitching line - this will be the cut line of the sleeve. From the beginning of the cut, the stitching of the cuff begins and ends, the construction of the drawing of which we will consider further.

cuff construction

The cuffs may have variations in their width and the design of the corners. With a cuff width of 8 cm or more, two loops (and, accordingly, buttons) are made on it. The cuff should fit fairly snugly, but there should still be enough space between the arm and the cuff. Approximately enough so that at least a couple of fingers can be inserted under the cuff when buttoned up.

The picture above shows the different types of cuffs:

Cuffs with right angle (drawing b) are cut out in one piece with a fold
For each cuff rounded (drawings V,G) or truncated angle (Figure A) you will need to cut out two parts

The incision under the cuff can also be designed in different ways:

Cut, processed plank (drawings A, b)
In the case of a two-seam sleeve, processing is possible slit in the seam of the sleeve
Cut, processed by edging type (drawing G). You can find more information about this processing method in the material on the sewing technology of the shirt in question.

So, the construction of a cuff drawing includes the following steps:

Step 1 . Measure the cuff sewing line on the sleeve drawing. Construct a rectangle with a length equal to the length of the cuff sewing line on the sleeve plus 2 cm. The width of the rectangle is equal to the width of the cuff - in our case it is 5.5 cm.

Step 2 . Finish the outer edge of the cuff with rounded corners. To do this, mark points at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm vertically and horizontally from the upper corners of the rectangle. Through these points, fill out the rounding of the corners of the cuff.

Step 3 . Mark the lines of skidding of the sides of the cuff on top of each other when fastening. In the drawing, they are shown by dotted lines located at a distance of 1 cm from both edges of the cuff. At the midpoints of these segments, mark the position of the button and the corresponding buttonhole. On the left cuff, the button will be on the right side, and on the right - on the left side.

Collar construction

The collar in a shirt can be of two types:

Stand-up with one-piece rack(drawing A), the construction of which we have already discussed in the article on modeling
Stand-up with cutting stand(drawings b-d), this is the collar of our shirt model and we will consider it today

The height of the stand can vary in the collar (in the figure b shows a high rack, on V, G- racks of medium height). The higher the collar stand, the tighter it should fit around the neck. Collars with low stands and stands of medium size may lag behind the neck in a larger one (figure G), or to a lesser extent (figure V) degrees.

The degree of fit of the collar to the neck depends on the curvature of the lines of the stand. A straighter line of the stand will cause the collar to lag behind the neck, and a more concave line will ensure the collar fits snugly to the neck.

The option of a stand-up collar with a detachable stand has already been considered by us in the lesson on modeling a shirt dress, you can see it at.

The collar, the construction of which we will consider, is shown in the figure. V. Let's start by building a rack.

Rack building:

Step 1 . The basis for the construction is a rectangle with a length equal to the length of the neck, measured in the drawing, and a width equal to the height of the rack.

Neck length Dgor will consist of the length of the neck of the back and the length of the neck of the shelf on the drawing . That is, in fact, this is half the length of the neck of the finished product.
Rack Height in the classical version can be taken equal to Sun \u003d 3 - 3.5 cm. Or you can roughly calculate it using the formula Sun = Height/50. So, for a height of 170 cm, as in our example, the height of the rack will be 3.4 cm.

Step 2 . Mark a point on the long side of the rectangle a , which bisects it. And on a short one - mark the point b , which divides the side in a ratio of 4 to 3 (as an option, you can mark the middle of the segment, and then lower this point 0.5 cm down).

Step 3 . through dots a And b we will build a line for stitching a rack into the neck. To do this, through the points a And b draw a smooth line and extend it for such a distance to the point c so that the stand stitching line (shown in dark blue in the drawing) is equal in length to the length of the neck Dgor plus half the width of the strap of the clasp.

Step 4 . Through the dot With let's draw a perpendicular to the stitching line of the rack. On this perpendicular, we set aside the height of the rack and draw through the points d And f a smooth line, similar to the stitching line of the stand.

Step 5 . Line segment cd divide in proportion 2 to 1, and from the point d to the left, you need to set aside at least half the width of the fastener bar (plus 0.1 - 0.3 cm), in this place we put a dot e . Through the received points from the point With to the point e let's draw a smooth ledge line of the rack.

Distance between points d And e can vary from half to the full width of the strap of the clasp. In the first case, the collar will look like in the picture V with the image of collars above and a photo of a white collar below, and in the second - as in the picture G and a photo of the black collar below.

Step 6 . Let's outline the line of the middle of the fastener - this is a segment that runs parallel to the segment cd at a distance of half the width of the strap of the fastener (shown in the drawing by a dotted line). In the middle of this segment, mark the position of the button (and, accordingly, the loop) with a cross.

Thus, the construction of the collar stand is completed! Line fe is the line for stitching the collar into the rack. Let's proceed to the construction of the collar itself.

Building the actual collar

Step 7 . Draw from a point e horizontal (shown in the drawing by a dotted line) and reflect the line of stitching the collar into the rack relative to it fe – received line f1 e .

Step 8 . from point f1 up we set aside the width of the departure of the collar, mark the point g . In the classic version, it is usually 5 - 6 cm. In our model, we will take the departure width 2 cm more than the height of the rack: Sho = Sun + 2 cm = 3.4 + 2 = 5.4 cm.

Step 9 . At the intersection of the horizontal from the point g and vertical from point e mark the point e1 . Set aside from it to the right horizontally about 1 cm and mark the point g1 .

Step 10 . Let's draw the lines of the end and departure of the collar. In the general case, this is done arbitrarily, based on the features of the model - the corner may be more pointed or completely rounded, the ends of the collar may be longer, etc. In our model, we will draw the collar lines as follows: connect the dots e And g1 and along this line from the point e set aside a distance equal to the departure width plus 1 cm. We mark a point in this place h . Connect the dots g And h concave smooth (almost straight) line - the collar fly-off line is obtained.