Pattern-basis of the dress for download. Basic dress pattern (Roslyakova). Step-by-step construction Basic dress pattern size 42

Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

Building a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR WAY (for beginners)

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Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since we have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

SO IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new easy way (I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for constructing a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all sorts of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I will not give you a single ready-made pattern!

I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character lies in the fact ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me, it is.

Yes- sewing by yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes yourself.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricacies of the numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WON'T TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch fear and make a girl doubt her own abilities, who really wants to make a dress- But I was not very friendly in my school years with geometry and drawing. Even I - who loves both of these school subjects - beat around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long does it take to draw this, and you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in the letters ... ".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you can see a piece of it from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering and design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

No obscure formulas
No messy calculations.
And without the letter-number cobweb.

Well, how? Have I removed a bit of your concerns?

I now relax - we will not start drawing right now. To begin with, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get acquainted, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, it is a cast from your body. This is your personal imprint. Any thing sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit perfectly on YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All-all models of dresses - are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove to you with an example. Even on three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits perfectly on the figure). Dress made according to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual pattern-base. You see, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any, any) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free topic.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day the fashion designer thought...“But what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - fig. below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping opposite triangles (red outlines - fig. below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a base pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just a lot of fantasy.

By the way - since we are talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “But what if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the line of the shoulder longer so that it hangs on the arm. And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And very simple.

You can do that too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist.

That is why I don't want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (such as “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point ...” - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you chuechka. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. And learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any, even intricately tailored, dress.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk along the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way.

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel the joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the wise man said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us.

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - a base pattern. Tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and well-known simple pattern - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what are these halves for, and where to apply them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both half of the back and half of the front. So to speak - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in the Potnovsky language, the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these very shelves of the front and back. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two obscure words: TRUCK And ARMHOLE.

Of course, you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, get acquainted - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size an armhole that fits you—when the armhole doesn't pull or dig into your hand.

That is, the pattern base contains acceptable minimum armhole size. You can model the armhole to your taste, any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be less than on the base pattern. That is, an armhole on a pattern basis - These are the limits beyond which your imagination should not intercede.

Your model armhole can be arbitrarily larger - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. Here is a rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the tucks.

BACK PATCHES - shoulder darts + waist darts

Here in the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder tuck on this dress. And on many dresses, too, it is not. Because for convenience and beauty, this tuck is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the tuck. And the extra fabric cut off in a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are optional if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Next, let's get to know… HALF FRONT darts

Oh, you could write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain it more clearly - what it is for and what laws it lives by. I thought and thought ... and came up with.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, the front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. The tuck on the shoulder of the front gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example - this flat circle of cardboard, with the help of a tuck, will now become convex.

And here is how the chest tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You noticed that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the point of the tuck. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw a tuck for the chest, the tip of our tuck will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you measured a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely warped on your chest - this is because the tuck in the dress was directed with its tip past top of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. Not under your breast shape, this product was cut at the factory.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest tuck is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. It's made for beauty. The tuck on the shoulder is more conspicuous, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest tuck on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the tuck from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest tuck from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?))) Whether there will be more ... We continue our walk along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the line of the chest. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We'll sew it with you. Don't even hesitate)

The chest line is the most wonderful line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate it when drawing a base pattern, because:

We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck of the back on the chest line.
We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
We know that the shoulder tuck is the front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And for now, I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the line of the chest (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these alphanumeric dots).

As you can see, there are a lot!! Therefore, go ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))

AND WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASIS? - you ask

And we will begin to sew according to the pattern-base of TOPS. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You ask: "Hey, why not just dresses?". I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle, so to be continued)))

Good luck with your sewing!

Hello my dear! Now an endless world of dress models will open before you, because when you make your own perfect base pattern, shot according to your measurements - you can build absolutely any dress that your fantasy tells you. And you will have to work a little only once - now.

So don't let the large number of letters and numbers in the drawing scare you, in fact make a base pattern will be a feasible task for you, because I will tell you about it in simple terms.

What will the building consist of?

We will draw half of the back and half of the front of the dress.

But first we need to decide what silhouette of the dress we want. Silhouettes are:

tight fitting
Adjoined
semi-adjacent
Straight

For example, I will build a pattern for you in size 46.

Dress length=85cm

For a snug fit, I'll take the following raises:

I wrote more about supplements above.

Don't let this drawing scare you, we will make it in parts and in four stages:

let's build a grid
upper back
top front
bottom of the dress from the waist with darts

Building a GRID

For your drawing, take better graph paper. She's the most comfortable. Instead of my initial data, substitute in the calculations your taken measurements, and it will be VERY EASY for you to build a drawing this way.

Set point A.

AH down = hem line level = product length = 85 cm
AT down \u003d waist line level \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 42.9 + 1 \u003d 43.9
AG down \u003d armhole line level \u003d Vprz + Pspr \u003d 21.3 + 2.5 \u003d 23.8
TB down = hip line level = Dlb = 20 (this is the standard)

For a better fit in the back area and for vertical side seams, you need to make a withdrawal of the middle line of the back, for this we draw a horizontal line from the T point. On it we postpone TT "to the right = 1.5 cm (this is the standard). Draw a straight line through point T and point A. Now all calculations will be made from points G, T. Mark them on your drawing.

We draw horizontal lines from all points.

Now we determine the width of the grid = Г»Г1 = Сг3 + Пг = 46 + 3 = 49

We make a kind of frame for the drawing (grid). On the right side we put points A1, G1, T1, B1, H1.

We set aside the back width \u003d Г»Г2 to the right \u003d Ws + 0.2 × Pg \u003d 17.7 + 0.2 × 3 \u003d 18.3

Set aside the width of the front \u003d Wg + 0.1 × Pg + 0.5 (Cr2-Cr1) \u003d 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 + 0.5 (48.2-44.2) \u003d 19.1

We check the width of the armhole on the drawing:

armhole width G2G3 \u003d W mesh - W back - W front \u003d 49 - 18.3 - 19.1 \u003d 11.6

Divide G2G3 in half = position of the side seam = draw a vertical down from the point G4.

Back construction

AU Down = level of the bottom of the shoulder blades \u003d 0.4 × Dts \u003d 0.4 × 42.9 \u003d 17.2 We set aside from point A down and at a right angle to the outlet.
AA2 right = back neck width \u003d 1/3 Ssh + Pshgs \u003d 18.3 / 3 + 1 \u003d 7.1
A2A21 down = back neck depth \u003d 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs \u003d 7.1 / 3 + 0.2 \u003d 2.6

Shoulder slope: is found using two radii (R):

R1 \u003d A2P1 \u003d Shp + shoulder tuck (1.5 cm - standard) + shoulder extension \u003d 13.2 + 1.5 + 0.5 \u003d 15.2 (we put the compass at point A2 and make an arc at a distance of 15.2, as in the figure below)

(R2) \u003d T "P1 \u003d Vpks + Pdts \u003d 42.9 +1 \u003d 43.9 (we put the compass at point T "and set aside an arc of 43.9 cm; the point of intersection of two arcs is P1)

We are building shoulder tuck on the slope of the shoulder:

from point A2 to the right we set aside 4 cm (this is a constant value). We draw a vertical from it down - this is the left side of the tuck. Set aside from point 4 to the right along the shoulder line 1.5 cm (undercut). And draw the right side of the tuck, equalize both sides of the tuck.

If you sew the tuck as a tuck without modeling, then the length of the tuck is 10-12 cm. If the tuck is transferred to the side of the chest, we make the tuck to the line of the shoulder blades. (marked in blue in the figure)

Now to build sleeve entry lines , additional points are needed:

from point P1 we draw a perpendicular to the line of the width of the back. We put a cross.
We divide the distance from this cross to the chest line into 3 equal parts. We add 2 cm to the bottom 1/3 (this is a constant value) - this is the P3 point.
Bisector from point Г2 = 0.2×Г2Г3 + 0.5 = 0.2×11.6 + 0.5 = 2.8

We draw a line of entry into the sleeve under the pattern.

Building the front

To begin with, we make a decrease along the waistline:

0.5 cm for size 40-42
0.7 -1 cm for size 44-48
1.2-2 for 50-56 size
over 2 - over size 56

We take a decrease of 1 cm.

T1 T11 down we postpone this decrease of 1 cm
Now we do the same decrease along the bottom line: H1H11 down 1 cm.
T11 A11 up \u003d position of the upper point of the neck of the front \u003d Dtp \u003d Pdtp \u003d 44.1 + 1.3 \u003d 45.4

In order for the dress to fit well in the chest area (not puffed up) - you need to make a fit (semi-skid).

A11 A12 left 1cm (standard). Connect point A12 with G1.

A12 A3 left = front neck width = AA2 (calculated from backrest drawing) = 7.1
A12 A4 Down = Front Throat Depth = A12A3 + 1 (Constant) = 7.1 + 1 = 8.1

Building BREAST DRAW .

D1D5 left = position of the center line of the chest = Cg + 0.5 (constant value) = 9.9 +0.5 = 10.4

Through the point G5 we draw a vertical with a dotted line.

Radius A3G6 to the center line of the chest = Br + 0.5 × Pdtp = 26.2 + 0.5 × 1.3 = 26.9. We connect A3 and G6 with a straight line.

Radius A3 A5 \u003d opening of the chest tuck \u003d 2 × (Cr2 - Cr1) \u003d 2 × (48.2 - 44.2) \u003d 8. We put the compass in A3 and draw an arc.
Radius G6 A5 = A3G6 = 26.9. We connect points A5 and G6.

Shoulder slope:

is also found using 2 radii.

Radius A5 P5 \u003d A2 P1 - shoulder tuck \u003d 15.2 - 1.5 \u003d 13.7
Radius G6 P5 \u003d Vpkp + 0.5 × Pdtp \u003d 23 + 0.5 × 1.3 \u003d 23.7

Connect points P5 and A5.

Check: point P1 must be higher than point P5. If point P5 is higher, you need to cut off a piece of the shoulder from the front and add it to the back). Horizontal alignment is allowed.

We are building sleeve entry line .

Additional points:

Point P6 - horizontal from the lower 1/3 of the back (see figure below)
Bisector from point Г3 = 0.2 × Г2Г3 = 0.2 × 11.6 = 2.3

Now we need to check front width at point P6:

W transmission \u003d Wg + 0.1 × Pg \u003d 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 \u003d 17.1

To do this, set aside from point P6 the perpendicular to the tuck line (see dotted line in the figure below).

On the other side of the tuck at the same level, we draw a horizontal line with a dotted line. Measure the length of both dotted lines = 16cm (in my drawing).

And the width should be 17.1 cm. The missing value is set aside on the horizontal from point P6. We put new point P6.

We draw with the help of the pattern the line of entry into the pocket.

Hip Width

Equalize the segments G»G4 = B»B21

Calculate the difference between your hip width and chest width:

Difference \u003d (Sb + Pb) - G "G1 \u003d (50 + 1.5) - 49 \u003d 2.5.

That is, the lack along the line of the hips \u003d 2.5 cm. So you need to expand the half of the front and half of the back by 1.25 cm each:

from point B2 to the left 1.25 cm = expand in front
from point B21 to the right 1.25 cm = expand the back

Draw vertical lines from these new points.

We build darts at the waist

First you need to calculate the difference between T»T1 and your waist width (based on measurements).

Difference \u003d T "T1 - (St + Fri) \u003d 48.5 - (35 + 1.5) \u003d 12

We distribute this difference between 4 tucks:

in the middle seam 1.5
in the side 4.5
back tuck 3.5
front tuck 2.5

in the middle seam 1.5 cm (see the figure below: from point T "to the right 1.5 cm. We draw straight lines from point 1.5 to the level of the line of the shoulder blades and point B")

Side seam 4.5 cm (see the figure below: set aside from point T2 by 2.25 to the right and left, connect with point G4 and points 1.25 on the hip line)

Back tuck - 3.5 cm. (see the figure below: we divide the distance between the tuck of the middle seam and the side tuck on the back in half, from this point we set aside half of the tuck - 1.75 - to the right and left. Draw the center line parallel to branch. From the level of the shoulder blades we lower the angle of the tuck by 5 cm down, from the level of the hips we set aside 2 cm upwards and draw the lower side of the tuck)

Front tuck: 2.5 cm (see the figure below: on the center line of the center of the chest, lay off half of the tuck - 1.25 cm - from point G6 lower the angle of the tuck by 3 cm, connect the lower side to the hip line)

We draw a bottom line along the front (under the pattern) and back (equalizing the sides, at right angles, as in the drawing of the backrest below)

Congratulations! If you have read up to this point, then perhaps you already have a YOUR pattern base , or you already at least understood how it is done. But this is the first step towards a series of future beautiful dresses! In the next article I will tell you how to translate a breast tuck so that it is invisible on the product. See you on the blog pages and Sew With Me!

Here is another very interesting option for building a base pattern on fabric:

Half-girths (measurements of girths we divide in half and get half-girths):

Rice. 1

Ssh - neck half circumference
SG1 - chest half circumference first
SG2 - half chest circumference of the second
SG3 - chest half circumference third
St - half waist
Sat - semi-circumference of the hips

Lengths:

Rice. 2

Di - product length
Dp - shoulder length
DTS - back length to waist
Dtp - length of the shelf to the waist

Rice. 3

Widths:

Шп - shoulder width
Wh - chest width
Шс - back width

Rice. 4

Heights:

Vpkg - shoulder height oblique chest

Rice. 5

Vpks - shoulder height oblique back

Rice. 6

Vg - chest height

We take measurements from the figure according to figures 1−4. When taking measurements of chest, waist, and hips, you need to pay special attention to the fact that the centimeter tape should be located strictly horizontally in the narrowest / widest place (depending on the measurement). When removing the girths, it is not necessary to stretch the tape, as this may lead to a narrowing of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to correctly measure the height of the back and front, as well as determine the projected line of the shoulder seam.

Flexibility gains

The increase depends on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired freedom of the product, and this must be taken into account when building. For example, we will take the average values. And also you need to take into account that we use the increase to build half of the product.

For an example of building a dress, we will take a size 48 (this is a size of 96.0 cm across the chest) for a height of 164.

Measurements:

W=18.5 cm
Cr1 \u003d 45.9 cm
Cr2 = 50.4 cm
Cr3 = 48.0 cm
St = 38.0 cm
Sat =52.0 cm
Di = 90.0 cm
Dts = 42.9 cm
Dtp = 44.4 cm
W = 13.3 cm
W = 17.3 cm
W = 18.3 cm
Wpx =43.2 cm
Vprz = 21.5 cm
Vg = 27.5 cm

Additions:

Pg = 6.0 cm
Fri = 3.0 cm
Pb = 2.5 cm
Pshs = 0.8 cm
Pshp 0.3 cm
Psh pr \u003d 4.9 cm
Pdts = 0.5 cm
Pdtp = 1.0 cm
Pshgor = 1.0 cm
Psp = 2.0 cm

Calculation for building a grid:

Grid width (A0a1) = Cr3 + Pg \u003d 48.0 + 6.0 \u003d 54.0 cm
Back width (A0a) \u003d Ws + Pshs \u003d 18.3 + 0.8 \u003d 19.1 cm
Shelf width (a1a2) \u003d Wg + (Sg2-Sg1) + Pshp \u003d 17.3 + (50.4−45.9) + 0.3 \u003d 22.1 cm
Armhole width (aa2) \u003d Shpr \u003d Shset-(Wsp + Shpol) \u003d 54.0-(19.1 + 22.1) \u003d 12.8 cm
Armhole depth (A0G) \u003d Vprz + Pspr 0.5 * Pdts \u003d 21.5 + 2.0 + 0.5 * 0.5 \u003d 23.8 cm
The position of the waist line (A0T) \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 42.9 + 0.5 cm \u003d 43.4 cm
The position of the hip line (A0B) \u003d Dts / 2-2 \u003d 42.9 / 2-2 \u003d 19.5 cm
The position of the bottom line of the product (A "H1) \u003d Di + Dts \u003d 90.0 + 0.5 cm \u003d 90.5 cm (the length of the back should be postponed after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will postpone the length of the product from point A1.

Mesh building

Step 1

Rice. 7

We take point A0 as the first point of construction and from it we set aside the width of the grid to the right - 54.0 cm, draw a line and put point a1 at the end of the segment.

To the right of the point A0 on the line A0a1, we set aside the width of the backrest, we get point a.

To the left of the point a1 on the line A0a1 we set aside the width of the shelf and get the point a2.
The segment aa2 is the width of the armhole.

Down from point A0, we set aside the height of the grid and set the point H at the end of the segment - the length of the product. Corresponds to the bottom line of the product (at this stage).

From point A0 downwards, we postpone the position of the chest line on the line A0G and get point G.
Also from the point A0 on the segment A0G lays the position of the waist line and we get the point T.
And we postpone the position of the line of the hips from the point T on the segment A0G and get point B.

From point a1 down, we also set aside the height of the grid and get point H3. We close the rectangle.

From points G, T and B we draw horizontal lines and get points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with the line a1H3.
In turn, from points, a and a2, we lower the vertical to the chest line GG3 and get points G1 and G4.
The first and important step in building the mesh should look like the one shown in Fig. 7.

Building a drawing of the back

Step 2

Rice. 8

From point A0 we set aside to the left on the line 0.5 cm - this is the withdrawal of the center of the back at the top. We get point A0".

From point A0 "down along the line A0H we set aside the level of the shoulder blades, which is 0.4 * Dts \u003d 0.4 * 42.9 \u003d 17.2 cm and get point U. We connect point U with point A0" with a temporary line.

We build the depth of the neck of the back A0 "A \u003d A2A1 \u003d 7.2 / 3 \u003d 2.4 down from the point A0" on the line A0 "U. We complete the rectangle and draw up the neckline of the back of the curved curve.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 8.

Step 3

Rice. 9

From the point T to the left on the waist line TT3, we postpone the withdrawal along the waist line = 1.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products. We get point T1.

To build the middle seam of the back, we set aside from the point H to the right a tap equal to the tap along the waist line 1.5 cm and get the point H1. We carry out the middle seam of the back through the points A-U-T1-H1.

From the neck of the back along the middle seam, we lay the length of the back down and get the H point (correct length).

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 9.

Step 4

Rice. 10

We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from point A2 equal to Shp + tuck opening \u003d 13.3 + 2.0 \u003d 15.3 cm, where the tuck opening is 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from point T1 equal to Vpk + Pvpk, where Ppvk \u003d Pdts + Ppn (increase on the shoulder pad, in this case \u003d 0), and we get 43.2 + 0.5 \u003d 43.7 cm.

At the intersection of the radii from points A2 and T1, we set the point P1.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 10.

Step 5

Rice. eleven

Let's start building a shoulder tuck by determining the position of the tuck along the shoulder seam. The tuck should be located 1/3 - ¼ of the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 \u003d 4.4 - 3.3, take a value of 4.0 cm.

We took the tuck solution when constructing the shoulder seam = 2.0 cm. We set aside point I1 on the shoulder from point A2 and point I2 in increments of 2.0 cm. Further, from points I1 and I2 we draw with a radius equal to 7.0 cm and we get point I. We connect points I and I1 and I2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to raise the sides of the darts from the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.

We connect the sides of the darts with the points of the neckline A2 and the end of the shoulder seam P2. From point P2 to the vertical a1G1 we draw a perpendicular, we will need it to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armhole.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. eleven.

Step 6

Rice. 12

We build auxiliary points of the armhole based on the length of the P1G1 line - the length of this section is 18.9 cm. To build the point P3 = 18.9 / 3 + 2.0 cm = 8.3 cm. segment G1a1.

From the corner G1 of the armhole we draw a bisector with a length = Shpr * 0.2 + 0.5 cm = 12.8 * 0.2 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.

The auxiliary point G2 is located in the middle of the width of the armhole, i.e. Spr / 2 = 12.8 / 2 = 6.4 cm.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 12.

Step 7

Rice. 13

The armhole line of the back is drawn with a smooth line, while the P2 point should have a right angle.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 13.

Building a drawing of a shelf

Step 8

Fig.14

To build the point of the center of the chest, the distance G3G4 / 2 - 1.0 = 22.½ - 1.0 = 10.1 cm is set aside from the point G3 to the right and we get the point G6.

For products of the dress group, we draw up the descent of the waist line = 0.5 cm, for this we set aside 0.5 cm from point T3 down and get point T31. From this point we draw a horizontal line to the left with a length equal to the width of Г3Г6.

To build the width of the neck of the shelf Ssh / 3 + Pshgor \u003d 18.5 / 3 + 1.0 \u003d 7.2 cm, set aside from point A3 to the left on the horizontal and get point A4. We calculate the depth of the neck according to the formula A3A4 +1.0 = 8.2 cm and draw a radius from points A4 on the vertical A3T3 and get the neck point A5. In turn, from points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make serifs and get an auxiliary point A3 "from which we draw the arc of the neck of the shelf.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 14.

Step 9

Fig.15

The position of the highest point of the mammary glands is set aside from point A4 with a radius equal to Bg \u003d 27.5 cm and we get point G7.

At the intersection of two arcs with the radius of the height of the chest from point G7 and the radius of the opening of the tuck from point A4, we find point A9.

We connect points A9 and A4 with point G7 and get the chest tuck of the shelf.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 15.

Step 10

Rice. 16

To determine the auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of the point P4 on the segment a2G4. For this, the distance P1G1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm \u003d 18.9 - 1.0 \u003d 17.9 cm, we get the distance P4G4. Further, this distance G4P4 / 3 = 6.0 cm and postpone this distance from the point G4 up and get the point P6.

Point P5 is obtained at the intersection of the arcs from point A9 - shoulder width = 13.3 cm and from point P6 equal to the distance P6P4 = 11.9 cm.

We draw the line of the shoulder through the points A9P5.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 16.

Step 11

Fig.17

To build the armhole of the shelf, we draw an auxiliary line, in the middle of which we set a perpendicular 1.0 cm long.

From the angle G4 to build an armhole, we draw the bisector Spr * 0.2 = 12.8 * 0.2 = 2.6 cm.

Through the points P5 - P6 - G2 and the constructed perpendiculars we draw the line of the armhole of the shelf.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 17.

Building side lines

Step 12

Rice. 18

The construction of the side lines along the line of the chest will start from the point G4 - this is the middle of the armhole. From the point G4 we draw a vertical down, this is the center line of the side seam.

At the intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom, we get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.

To design the side seam, take 0.4 * R-p vyt tal \u003d 0.4 * 11.5 \u003d 4.6 and divide this amount by two, since this is a complete solution of the tuck in the side seam. To do this, 4.6 / 2 \u003d 2.3 cm and set aside in each direction from the T2 point. And we get points T21 and T22.

Next, we calculate the expansion along the hips, for this (Sb + Pb) - B1B3 \u003d (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 \u003d 2.0 cm. We also divide it in half 2/2 \u003d 1.0 cm, in order to put aside the extension along the hips on both sides of point B2. And we get points B21 and B22.

In this construction example, we will leave the dress of a straight silhouette at the bottom, therefore, along the bottom line along the side seam, we set aside the same values as for the hips. And we get points H21 and H22.

Through the points G4-T21-B22-H22 and G4-T22-B21-H21 we draw the lines of the side seam of the shelf and back.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 18.

Step 13

Rice. 19

To build a tuck along the waist line of the back, we determine the position of the tuck along the waist line on the back, for this, the distance T1T21 / 2 \u003d 21.8 / 2 \u003d 10.9 cm and we get point T4.

Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the waist line (R-r vyt tal - R-r vyt tal side) * 0.55 \u003d (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 \u003d 3.8 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3.8 / 2 \u003d 1.9 and set aside from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.

The height of the tuck from the waist line up and down is 15.0 cm each - we get points K1 and K2, respectively.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 19.

Step 14

Rice. 20

To build a tuck along the waist line of the shelf, we use the position of the center of the chest on the shelf, for this we lower the vertical down from the waist line from point T6 to the line of the hips - we get point T5.

Next, we calculate the solution of the tuck along the waist line R-r vyt tal - R-r vyt tal side-R-r pulled out sp \u003d 11.5 - 4.6 - 3.8 \u003d 3.1 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3, ½ \u003d 1.55 and set aside from point T5 and get points T51 and T52.

The height of the tuck from the waistline up and down is the same as on the back, 15.0 cm each - we get points K3 and K4.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 20.

Step 15

Rice. 21

To build relief lines, it is necessary to translate part of the chest tuck of the shelf. To do this, with a notch equal to the distance from the neck to the tuck of the back = 4.0 cm, set aside 4.0 cm on the shoulder line of the shelf and get point A81.

We connect point A81 and point G7 - this is the length of the radius of the transfer of the chest tuck = 26.3 cm.

Now, from point A4, we set aside the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 \u003d 4.0 cm, put the first notch, and from point G7 with a radius equal to the segment A81G7, we make the second notch. At the intersection of the radii, we get point A8. Then we connect points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get the line of the shoulder to the line of the relief of the shelf and the section of the relief of the shelf.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 21.

Step 16

Rice. 22

To design the bottom line of the product, you need to lower the line of the center of the shelf - the descent of the bottom line H3H31 is 1.0 cm.

We lower the relief lines of the shelf and back to the bottom line and get the points H4 and H5, respectively.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 22.

Rice. 23

The construction of the dress has come to an end and our drawing should look like the one shown in fig. 23.

Step 17

Rice. 24

Next, you need to transfer the main details of the shelf, the barrel of the shelf, the back and the barrel of the back to tracing paper and add allowances for the seams.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 24.

If these are your first steps in designing, then the design must be checked, that is, the dress should be sewn from mock-up fabric and tried on to be sure that there were no errors in the calculations and construction.

Also, after construction, it is necessary to add the details of the facings of the neck and armholes of the back and shelves. And also, if desired, decorative elements - coquettes, flounces, edgings, etc.

Photo: site
Text and illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
The material was prepared by Anna Soboleva

The base pattern of the dress (basic pattern) is exactly what any dress begins with. In order to build such a pattern, you need to take measurements from the figure, perform the necessary calculations and complete the construction. The process is not complicated, but it requires a certain amount of time. If you have never built a dress base pattern, we offer you a simple one, using which you can easily build a pattern in just an hour. However, there is an even easier way!

Rice. 1 Table of women's measurements

Compare your measurements with the table and determine the size of the dress. Then check the selected size as shown in fig. 2.

How to check a pattern

To check your chosen size, measure according to the pattern:

Semi bust: sections X=X1+X2,

Half waist: Y=Y1+Y2+Y3+Y4,

Half hips: Z=Z1+Z2.

Rice. 2. Dress pattern control

Multiply each calculated X, Y and Z value by 2 and compare with your measurements. Each 2X, 2Y and 2Z value must be about 3 cm larger than the corresponding measured value.

Important values - Back Length to Waist (DTS) And Front length to waist (accident). If your DTS and RTA measurements match those in the table, no adjustment is required; in other cases, you need to adjust the pattern, since the position of the waistline depends on these values.

To adjust the DTS, cut the pattern horizontally just below the armhole line and shorten or lengthen the pattern to the desired length along the back. Similarly, adjust the front half of the dress by shortening or lengthening the RTA.

Rice. 3. TPA adjustment

Waist and hip adjustment

What should I do if, when choosing a pattern of your size, the bust girth does not match the waist girth and hip girth?

In this case, you need to adjust the waist circumference and hip circumference when outlining the pattern. This is very easy to do, based on the contour lines of the pattern. For example, if according to your measurements Bust corresponds to the standard 46 size, Waist circumference 44 size, and Hip circumference 48 size, when outlining the waist line, go to the contour line of the previous 44 size, and when outlining the hip line - next to yours, 48 size.

Rice. 4. Outlining the pattern with the adjustment of girths

How to download and print a pattern

You can download the pattern in full size, just click on the button below. Print the pattern on the printer in full size (595 * 1075 mm) - it is better to do this in a copy center.

The pattern can be downloaded in A4 format broken into sheets (do not correct when printing and print as is). Please note that with such printing and gluing there may be distortions in the dimensions of the pattern, be sure to check the key measurements as described above.

We wish you beautiful dresses, admiring glances and new creative ideas!

23:36 unknown 69 Comments

Hello dear readers!
When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes of complex styles, you will already need a pattern - a paper template, according to which fabric details are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, then I will advise the second option.
Even if you are new to sewing, building a pattern will help you quickly understand and master the principles of designing clothes. In addition, the pattern is built according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit the figure well, ready-made patterns do not guarantee such a result, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And finally, building a pattern is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to build a basic pattern for a dress according to the method of Tatyana Roslyakova.
In the last article, we learned how to take the measurements that we need to make a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the drawing of structures is carried out only on half of the figure, therefore, measurements of volumes and width are recorded in half size. Below is a table in which I wrote my measurements as an example. By these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.

Name of measurements and symbols	cm
Half neck (Ssh)
Bust (Cg)	40,5
Waist (St)
Half hips (Sat)	44.5
Back length to waist (Dts)
Back Width (W)	16,5
Front length to waist (dtp)
Chest Height (Hg)
Center of the chest (Cg)
Shoulder length (Dp)
Product length (Di)

In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for free fit (CO). These additions are added to almost all measurements in the design drawing, they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for free fitting differs in size. The allowances for clothing styles also differ (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.), moreover, there are separate allowances for different types of fabrics. Different methods for constructing patterns indicate different increments for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increments indicated in the methodology. But for now, we are learning to build the base of the dress, so I offer you two silhouettes: adjacent and semi-adjacent with the following additions:

Please note that the increments indicated in the table are added in full to the half measure. That is, if the measurement of chest circumference is 81 cm, then the semi-circumference of the chest = 40.5 cm, for an adjacent silhouette, an increase in free fit of 3 cm is added to 40.5 cm, which means that the future product along the chest line will be 6 cm more. In addition, the increase along the chest line is distributed among the details of the pattern in the following ratio:
back width - 30%
shelf width - 20%
armhole width - 50%.

distribution of gain along the chest line

I will indicate all the allowances for free fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when constructing a pattern. In this article, we will build a dress with an adjacent silhouette.
Let's start drawing . It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm longer than the length of the future dress. If you have never built patterns before, then I advise you to do all the drawings on millimeter paper in a roll, it can be purchased at an office supply store. Drawing on such paper is a pleasure! Drawings are accurate and even. Dress length . In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with a vertex at point P, stepping back from the top edge of 5 cm. From the point P down in a straight line, set aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put the point H (segment PH \u003d Di \u003d 85 cm).

Dress Width. From the point P to the right, set aside the half-girth of the chest + 3 cm (increase in free fit), and put the point P 1 (segment PP 1 \u003d Cr + CO \u003d 40.5 + 3 \u003d 43.5 cm). From point H to the right, set aside a segment equal to PP 1 and put a point H 1 (segment HH 1 = PP 1 = 43.5 cm). Connect the points P 1 and H 1

Waistline . From the point P down, we set aside the measurement of the length of the back to the waist + 0.5 cm and set the point T (RT = Dts + CO = 40 + 0.5 = 40.5 cm). Draw a straight line from the point T to the right until it intersects with the line P 1 H 1 and denote the intersection point as T 1 .

hip line . From point T downwards, set aside 1/2 measurements of the length of the back to the waist and put point B (TB \u003d 1 / 2Dts \u003d 40: 2 \u003d 20 cm). Draw a straight line from point B to the right until it intersects with the line P 1 H 1, and denote the intersection point B 1.

Back Width . From the point P to the right, set aside the width of the back + 0.9 cm and put the point P 2 (PP 2 \u003d Shs + CO \u003d 16.5 + 0.9 \u003d 17.4 cm). Draw a straight line of arbitrary length from this point

Armhole Width . From the point P 2 we set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest + 1.5 cm and put the point P 3 (P 2 P 3 \u003d 1 / 4 Cr + CO \u003d 40.5: 4 + 1.5 \u003d 11.6 cm). Attention! The segment R 2 R 3 is the width of the armhole, therefore, the resulting value of this segment must be distinguished for yourself, in the future we will use this value. Draw a straight line of arbitrary length down from the point P 3.

Back neck cut . From point P to the right, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and put the point P 4 (PP 4 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.5 cm). From the point P 4 upwards, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck + 0.8 cm and put P 5 (P 4 P 5 \u003d 1 / 10Ssh + CO \u003d 15:10 + 0.8 \u003d 2.3 cm). Divide the angle with the top P 4 in half and draw a straight line, on this straight line we set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck - 0.3 cm and put a point P 6 (P 4 P 6 \u003d 1/10Ssh-CO \u003d 15: 10-0.3 \u003d 1 ,2cm). Connect the points P, P 6 and P 5 with a smooth line, while the angle at the point P must be straight.

Shoulder cut back . From P 2 we set aside 2.5 cm down for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping, 1.5 cm for high and put a point P. Connect the points P 5 and P, and on this line we set aside from P 5 the length of the shoulder + 2 cm to the tuck and put P 1 (P 5 P 1 \u003d Dp + 2cm \u003d 13 + 2 \u003d 15cm). Again, on this line from the point P 5, set aside 4cm and put the point O (P 5 O \u003d 4cm). Down from the point O, set aside 8 cm and put the point O 1 (OO 1 \u003d 8 cm). Set aside 2 cm to the right of the point O and put the point O 2 (OO 2 \u003d 2 cm). Let's connect the points O 1 and O 2, on the straight line obtained from the point O 1 we set aside 8 cm and put the point O 3 (O 1 O 3 \u003d 8 cm). Now let's connect the points O 3 and P 1.

Armhole depth . From P down we set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest plus 7 cm (for stooped figures plus 7.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5 cm) and put the point G (PG = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5: 4 + 7.5 = 17.6cm). Draw a line through the point Г to the intersection with the straight line РН, denoting the intersection point G 1, to the line P 1 H 1, denoting the intersection point Г 3, and the point of intersection with the straight line from the point Р 3 denote G 2.

Back armhole cut . From G upwards, set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2cm and put P 2 (GP 2 \u003d 1 / 3PG + CO \u003d 17.6: 3 + 2 \u003d 7.8 cm). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 1.5 cm and put the point P 3 (GP 3 \u003d 1 / 10 Shpr + CO \u003d 11.6: 10 + 1.5 \u003d 2.6 cm) we divide the GG 2 line in half and put G 4. Points P 1, P 2, P 3 and G 4 will be connected by a smooth line.

Shelf armhole cut . From G 2 upwards, set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest + 5 cm (for stooped figures + 4.5 cm, for kinky figures + 5.5 cm) and put P 4 (G 2 P 4 \u003d 1 / 4Сg + CO \u003d 40.5: 4 + 4.5=14.6cm). From P 4 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the chest half-girth and put P 5 (P 4 P 5 \u003d 1 / 10Sg \u003d 40.5: 10 \u003d 4 cm). From G 2 upwards, set aside 1/3 of the segment G 2 P 4 and put P 6 (G 2 P 6 \u003d 1 / 3G 2 P 4 \u003d 14.6: 3 \u003d 4.8 cm). We connect the points P 5 and P 6 with a dotted line and divide it in half, from the division point to the right at a right angle we set aside 1 cm. Divide the angle at point G 2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 0.8 cm and mark the point P 7 (G 2 P 7 \u003d 1 / 10 Shpr + CO \u003d 11.6: 10 + 0.8 \u003d 1.9) . Let's connect with a smooth line the points P 5, 1, P 6, P 7, and G 4.

Shelf neck cut . From G 3 upwards, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the chest + 1.5 cm (for stooped figures + 1 cm, for kinky figures + 2 cm) and put R 7 (G 3 R 7 \u003d 1 / 2 Cr + CO \u003d 40.5: 2 + 1 \u003d 40.5: 2 + 1 \u003d 21.2cm). From G 2 we set aside the same value upwards and put a point P 8 (G 2 R 8 \u003d G 3 R 7 \u003d 21.2 cm). Let's connect the points P 7 and P 8. Now, from the point P 7 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and put P 9 (P 7 P 9 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.5 cm). Down from the point P 7, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 2 cm and put the point P 10 (P 7 P 10 -1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 2 \u003d 7 cm). We connect the points P 9 and P 10, and divide the resulting segment in half. From the point P 7 we draw a straight line through the division point of the segment P 9 P 10, and on this line we set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 1cm and put the point P 11 (P 7 P 11 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 1 \u003d 6 cm). Connect the points P 9, P 11, P 10 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at the point P 10.

Shoulder section of the shelf and the line of the chest tuck . From G 3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest and put G 6 (G 3 G 6 \u003d Tsg \u003d 9cm). From G 6 we draw a line up to the intersection with the line R 7 R 8, we denote the intersection point as R 12. From P 12 down, we set aside the measurement of the height of the chest and put a point G 7 (P 12 G 7 \u003d Vg \u003d 25 cm). From the point P 12 down, set aside 1 cm and put P 13 (P 12 P 13 \u003d 1 cm). We connect points P 9 and P 13. And we will connect the points P 13 and P 5 with a dotted line. On this line from point P5 to the right, set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment R 9 R 13 and minus 0.3 cm, put the point R 14 (P 5 R 14 \u003d Dp-R 9 R 13 -0.3 \u003d 13-3-0, 3=9cm). From the point G 7 through the point P 14 we draw a segment equal to the segment G 7 R 13 and put the point P 15 (G 7 R 15 \u003d G 7 R 13). We connect points P 5 and P 15.

Side seam line . From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and put a point G 5 (GG 5 \u003d 1 / 3Shpr \u003d 11.6: 3 \u003d 3.8 cm). Draw a vertical line through the point Г 5. At the intersection with the armhole line, we put point B, at the intersections with the waist, hips and bottom lines, we put points T 2, B 2, H 2.

Determining the solution of tucks along the waist line . We add 1 cm to the measure of the half-circumference of the waist (St + CO = 29 + 1 = 30 cm), subtract this value from the width of the dress along the line TT 1 (43.5-30 = 13.5 cm). Thus, we calculated the total amount of tuck solutions along the waist line, i.e. 13.5cm.

the size of the solution of the front tuck \u003d 0.25 of the total solution of the tucks (13.5 x 0.25 \u003d 3.4 cm),

the size of the side tuck solution = 0.45 of the total solution (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),

the size of the back tuck solution = 0.3 of the total solution (13.5 x 0.3 \u003d 4.1 cm)

Determining the width of the dress along the hip line . We add 1 cm to the semi-girth of the hips (Sb + CO = 44.5 + 1 = 45.5 cm). From the obtained value, subtract the width of the dress along the line BB 1 (45.5-43.5 \u003d 2 cm). We will distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (1 cm each). Side tuck . From B 2 to the left and right, set aside the resulting difference (in my example, 1cm) and put points B 3 and B 4. From T 2 to the left and to the right, set aside half the solution of the side tuck (6: 2 \u003d 3 cm) and put T 3 and T 4. We connect point B with points T 3 and T 4. We will connect the points T 3, B 4 and T 4, B 3 with a dotted line, divide these segments in half, from the division points to the side we set aside 0.5 cm each and connect now we will draw a side cut with smooth lines through the points T 3, 0.5 and B 3 and through the points T 4 , 0.5, B 4 . Shelf waist line . From the point P 7 down, we set aside the measurement of the length of the front to the waist + 0.5 cm and put T 5 (P 7 T 5 \u003d Dtp + CO \u003d 42 + 0.5 \u003d 42.5 cm). We will connect points T 4 and T 5 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at point T 5.

Shelf hip line . From B 1 down, set aside the value of the segment T 1 T 5 and put B 5 (B 1 B 5 \u003d T 1 T 5. We connect points B 3 and B 5 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at point B 5 Shelf tuck . Draw a straight line from G 6 down to the intersection with the line BB 1. Intersections with the lines of the waist and hips will be denoted by points T 9 and B 7. From T 9 to the left and right, set aside half the solution of the front tuck (3.4: 2 \u003d 1.7 cm) and put T 10 and T 11. From G 7 down, and from B 7 up we set aside 4 cm, put points and connect them with T 10 and T 11.

Back tuck . Let's divide the segment ГГ 1 in half, and denote the division point Г 8. From G 8 we lower the line down to the intersection with the line BB 1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line, we put points T 6 and B 6. From T 6 to the left and right, set aside half of the back tuck solution (4.1: 2 \u003d 2 cm) and put T 7 and T 8. Set aside 1 cm from G 8 down, set aside 3 cm from B 6 up. We connect these points with T 7 and T 8

Shelf bottom line . From B 3 and B 4 we will draw lines down to the intersection with the straight line HH 1 and denote the points H 3 and H 4. From H1 down, set aside the value of the segment T 1 T 5 and put a point H 5 (H 1 H 5 \u003d T 1 T 5). We will connect points H 3 and H 5 with a smooth line, observing a right angle at the point H 5.

shelf - the front of the product

Neck - neckline

Armhole - cutout for sleeves (cut from the shoulder to the side seams to connect the sleeves with the bodice)

tuck - excess fabric taken into the seam. With the help of darts, the necessary forms are given to the product.
In addition to the dress, you can build a pattern of a single-seam set-in sleeve.

Information prepared based on the materials of the author Valentina Nivina Internet resource