Pattern for a dress made of knitwear without darts. Patterns - from simple to complex. Construction of the back of the dress

Let's consider constructing a pattern for the base of a dress/blouse. You will learn how to create a basic dress pattern according to your measurements using recommendations from the Italian cutting system for subsequent sewing from knitted fabrics.

Knitted fabrics have their own characteristics and, first of all, are distinguished by a high degree of stretch, due to which knitted products are able to softly fit the figure without the use of complex design solutions (darts, reliefs, etc.) when creating patterns.

We will create a pattern according to individual measurements for a dress that emphasizes the figure, not spacious, but not too narrow, without darts, with zero allowances for freedom of fit: Pg=Pb=0 (if it is necessary to sew a dress with a very tight fit, allowances should be taken negative, i.e. dimensional volumes will need to be reduced by the corresponding increases).

Measurements needed for construction:

(how to take measurements correctly, see the article)

Size = 42; Height = 171 cm;

Chest circumference: Og = 86 cm; Cg = Og/2 = 43 cm;

Waist: From = 63 cm; St = From/2 = 31.5 cm;

Hip circumference: About = 96 cm; Sat = Ob/2 = 48 cm;

Shoulder circumference: Op = 25 cm;

Thigh height: Wb = 24 cm;

Length of the shoulder slope: Lpl = 11 cm;

Back length to waist: Lst = 47 cm;

Shoulder height oblique back: Vpx = 47 cm;

Length of shelf to waist: Dpt = 48 cm;

Shoulder height oblique shelf: Vpkp = 26 cm;

Chest height: Vg = 27 cm;

Center of the chest: Cg = 8.5 cm;

Dress length from waist: Dp(t) = 61 cm

Construction of a basic knitted dress pattern:

(life size, values in centimeters)

We build the base mesh and neck lines (Fig. 1):

1.1) In the upper left corner of the sheet, moving 10-15 cm from the top, put a dot A. From point A, draw a horizontal line to the right and a vertical line down;

1.2) AB = Size/24 + 0.2 = 1.95. Set aside horizontally to the right AB1 = Size/6 = 7. We connect B and B1 along the pattern with a smooth line coming out from point B at an angle of 90˚ to the vertical - this is the line of the back neckline;

1.3) Lay it down vertically AG = Height/8 + Size/24 + Increase in armhole depth = 25(the increase in the depth of the armhole is not a fixed value, in my case it is equal to 1 cm and, as you can see, in the final drawing, with my measurements, the armhole is quite long). From point G we draw a horizontal line to the right, GG2 = Cr = 43;

1.4) Lay it down vertically AT = Dst = 47. From point T we draw a horizontal line to the right, TT2 = Cr = 43;

1.5) Lay it down vertically TB = Wb = 24. From point B we draw a horizontal line to the right, BB2 = Cr = 43;

1.6) Lay it down vertically TN = Dp(t) = 61. From point H we draw a horizontal line to the right, HH2 = Cr = 43;

1.7) We connect points G2 and H2, we get the right vertical - the line of the middle of the shelf. From point T2 up vertically we lay Т2В2 = Dpt = 48 cm;

1.8) From point B2 draw a horizontal line to the left. Set aside horizontally to the left B2B3 = Size/6 = 7. We put it down along the right vertical line В2В4 = В2В3 + 1 = 8. We connect B4 and B3 along the pattern with a smooth line coming out from point B4 at an angle of 90˚ to the vertical - this is the line of the neck of the shelf.

We build the lines of the side, shoulder, and armhole boundaries (Fig. 2):

2.1) GG2/2 = G1(GG1 = G1G2 = GG2/2). From point G1 we draw a vertical line down, mark points T1, B1, H1;

2.2) G1G3 = G1G4 = [Op/3] / 2 = 4. From points G3 and G4 we draw verticals upward until they intersect with the horizontals coming out from points A and B2;

2.3) Building shoulder lines. If your figure is close to the conventionally typical one, then you can do the following: from the point of intersection of the horizontal from point A and the vertical from point G3, put 4.5 down and draw a horizontal line. From point B1 to this horizontal line we build a segment equal to the length of the shoulder slope - this is the line of the back shoulder; Similarly, we construct the shoulder line of the shelf, drawing a horizontal line at a distance of 6.5 from the horizontal line coming from point B2.

Or we find shoulder points using arcs:

From point B1 we draw an arc with a radius = length of the shoulder slope = 11. From point T we draw an arc with a radius = Bpx = 47. We connect B1 and the point of intersection of the arcs - this is the back shoulder line (red line in the figure).

From point B2 we put down B2Ts = Bg = 27. From point T to the left we put TsG = Tsg = 8.5. From point B3 we draw an arc with a radius = length of the shoulder slope = 11. From point Cg we draw an arc with a radius = Vpkp = 26. We connect B3 and the point of intersection of the arcs - this is the line of the shoulder of the shelf (blue line in the figure).

We draw up the lines of the armhole and sides (Fig. 3):

3.1) From point G3, we put 7 vertically upward. Using the pattern, we build a line for the armhole of the back - a smooth line coming out from point P1 perpendicular to the shoulder line; if it cannot be drawn through point 7 without a break, you can step back a little from point 7.

From point G4, we put 5 vertically upward. Using the pattern, we build a line for the armhole of the front - a smooth line coming out from point P2 perpendicular to the shoulder line; if it cannot be drawn without a break through point 5, you can step back a little from point 5. The arc of section 5G1 should be more curved, and 7G1 flat, this is necessary for a deeper cut of the armhole of the shelf for freedom of movement of the arms;

3.2) TT3 = T2T4 = St/2 + (0÷2) = 18. Where 0÷2 is the increase in waist, depending on the style of the future product; if you want to smooth out the sharpness of the transition from a thin waist to wide hips, you can take a higher value;

3.3) BB4 = B2B3 = Sat/2 = 24;

3.4) We smooth out the corners of the side lines, repeating the shape of the natural curves of the body.

The front and back of the basic knitted dress pattern are ready (Fig. 4). We transfer them separately onto tracing paper, mark the direction of the grain thread, the grain thread is parallel to the middle line, add seam allowances and cut them out.

After constructing a basic pattern, it is advisable to sew a test product based on it, try it on, make sure that everything fits well, or identify shortcomings, analyze, and make changes to the pattern. It is important to bring the basic pattern to perfection, then you will not have problems with the fit of products modeled on its basis.

Based on the constructed basic pattern, you can model and sew, for example, this stylish dress:

Hello, friends!

It is especially difficult for a novice tailor to sew things with complex processing or a complex cut. Newbies are surprised: How can you sew a dress in a couple of hours, especially a knitted one?

What to do when sewing is difficult and scary?

Should you give up sewing or choose to sew things according to your capabilities, improving your sewing skills over and over again?

The second option is smarter and will definitely lead to the fulfillment of your dream - learning to sew.

Today I propose to consider sewing a dress from knitted fabric, which even a beginner can sew in a few hours.

Moreover, the simple cut and simple technological processing do not detract from the effectiveness and comfort of the dress. With a little time and material, you can shine in a new outfit while walking the streets or at parties.

To sew a dress you will need:

A piece of knitted fabric, 150 cm wide;
Threads matching the tone;
Elastic band 1 cm wide;
Scissors;
Pins;
Chalk or self-disappearing marker;
Sewing machine;
Overlock (optional);
Iron.

Model selection

The purpose of the dress changes depending on the choice of material - thick knitwear in everyday colors or thin, bright and shining material - it's up to you.

In my case, the dress is casual.

Seam at the waist with a flowing half-sun skirt. Bodice with one-piece sleeves. The neckline is oval. The bottom of the sleeve is finished with a cuff. The bottom of the skirt is a hem seam with an open cut. The neckline is finished with facing.

Dress sketch

Material selection

Knitted fabric is quite thin, easily draped, stretchable in one or two directions.

Material consumption

With a fabric width of 150 cm or more, you need: 1 bodice length + 1 skirt length + seam allowances of 5-7 cm.
If the hip measurement does not fit the width of the fabric, take 2 skirt lengths.

This dress looks great with a long skirt. When choosing a model and calculating the amount of fabric, take into account the change in skirt length.

Preparing for cutting

I decate the knitted fabric, fold it, aligning the cuts, and chop along the edges to avoid curling of the knitwear.

How and why you need to decate knitwear

It’s easy to cut the bodice yourself or use my cutting system from the “Quick Dresses” course. Those who have taken the course can safely take the pattern for constructing model 3 and build the pattern directly on the fabric. If you have any questions, write.

An approximate diagram of the bodice pattern is as follows:

For cutting:

From a whole piece of knitwear, I cut off a rectangle equal to the measurement Dtp + P (P = 1.5 -2 cm) + seam allowance - this is the future bodice of the dress.

I fold the resulting rectangle 4 times, as shown:

I cut out the bodice according to the measurements and construction diagram;

From the remaining fabric I cut out a skirt.
For clarity, photos of the process and approximate cutting lines:

Preparation for fitting, fitting

Important! If you are not sure about the pattern and are sewing a similar model for the first time, be sure to try it on.

To do this, sweep all the parts cut by section.:

front and back details along the side and shoulder sections;
details of the skirt panel;
combine the top and bottom parts of the dress, sweep;

Try on the dress, check the fit, sleeve length, product, neckline, and make the necessary changes.

Read more about fitting and preparation for it in the publications:

Sewing a dress

Important! Set up your sewing machine before sewing. Make a few test stitches on a piece of knitwear, selecting the optimal parameters. Also, do not forget to perform an OBE on a test piece of knitwear.

Bodice processing

Place the back and front pieces right sides together;
Baste/pin along the side and shoulder edges;
Stitch the cuts;
Serve;
Press the seam allowances toward the back piece;

Note: How to work with knitwear?
There are several articles on the site that answer this question.

Advice: Type the word “Knitwear” in the Search box and you will find many recommendations and instructions for working with knitted fabrics.

Skirt processing

Fold the part/parts (if the skirt consists of two panels) of the skirt along the sections;
Sweep or chip;
Stitch;
Sew and iron the edges;

Connection of skirt and bodice

Fold the bodice and skirt pieces right sides inward along the cut of the bodice and skirt junction;
Align along the notches, sweep away;

Sew the bodice and skirt;
Overcast seam allowances;
Cut a piece from the elastic equal to the waist circumference - 4-5 cm.
Place elastic on top of the seam connecting the bodice and skirt;
Sew along the elastic using an elastic stitch or a zigzag stitch;

Processing the bottom of the sleeve

The bottom of the sleeve can be finished with a hem or cuff seam;
For the cuff, cut out a strip 4-6 cm wide, equal in length to the width of the sleeve at the bottom;
Sew the strip into a ring”
Fold lengthwise down the middle with right sides facing out;
Place the prepared cuff right side to the front of the sleeve;
Stitch, overcast the seam, press the sleeves together;

Cut out the facing along the contour of the neckline;
Stitch along short sections;
Fold right sides together, baste;
Stitch the neck;
Turn the facing inside out and iron it;

A knitted dress is a shoulder-length garment for girls and women made from knitted fabric. The canvas can be produced by the meter for subsequent cutting on the floor or bound with ready-made coupons with clean edges.

lystit.com

Types of knitwear

Knitwear has elasticity - the ability of the looped movable structure of the fabric to stretch and return to its original state almost without deformation. Extensibility has certain characteristics and advantages in the manufacture of products.

Knitwear for making casual clothing is divided into 2 large groups:

cut (linen)
and top (knitted).

Thin cut knitwear is made on knitting machines in wide sheets, from which parts are then cut and stitched into the finished product using an overlocker. In addition to stretchability and elasticity, the fabrics must be stable and resistant to deformation when worn.

Variants of cut knitwear from which dresses are sewn

Cooking surface. A basic fabric that has loops on the front side and broaches on the back. In finished products, the stockinette stitch causes distortions in the side seams, which is why it is used for simple silhouettes and linen assortments (for example, nightgowns). In world textile terminology, this weave is called jersey. For a simple summer or lingerie range, use 100% cotton or viscose, adding elastane for extra stretch and fit in form-fitting styles.
Eraser with parsing or rib. Fabric with an elastic structure due to the properties of the “rubber” weave. Elastane is rarely added for greater stability. The classic version of the eraser is 1x1, 2x2, with a composition of “100% cotton” or “100% viscose”.
Complex weaves. These include a footer looped on the wrong side. The composition is varied, including the inclusion of synthetics. Usually used for demi-season dresses and sweatshirts.
Combined weave. Stable complex weave, identical on the front and back sides. An ideal suiting fabric with various characteristics similar to elastane fabric. Works well in making formal wear, suits and dresses.

The weave options for knitted knitwear, which are made with ready-made coupon parts, depend on the developer-designer and the capabilities of the knitting machines. Modern machines and fibers make it possible to create fabrics of various densities, textures, and patterns.

missguided.com

Knitting the parts by hand and then sewing a knitted dress with your own hands is not difficult. Having the skills of creating patterns, having yarn and tools, you can not sew a knitted dress, but knit it, then assemble it by hand.

Making a knitted dress pattern

Before you make a dress pattern from cut fabric, you need to choose the material. If you choose a dress model with a straight silhouette, then any fabric will do. If it is adjacent, then it is better to choose an elastic rib or a stable fabric of a combined weave.

vovk.com

There are two methods for sewing a knitted dress yourself:

re-take dimensions from an existing product that is suitable in size;
Create a basic pattern yourself.

In the first case, it is necessary to place the finished dress on canvas or paper and transfer the dimensions as accurately as possible. Then clarify the lengths and shapes of the mating parts: side sections of the product and sleeves, shoulder sections, equalize the lengths of the armhole and sleeve cap. For a better fit, you can lengthen the side cut of the shelf on the chest area to 1.5 cm.

livefreecreative.co

Preparing for sewing

To make it yourself, you will need the basic design of a shoulder product. Due to the stretchability of knitwear and the possibility of large errors in width, the base can be any size that matches the chest circumference.
To find the degree of fit in the chest area, it is necessary to use the basic principles of the prototyping method.
To do this, pin the selected fabric onto a mannequin or your own figure and determine the freedom of fit in the widest part along the chest and waist line.
Lay out the fabric on the work table and record the resulting measurement on the base pattern.
Change the Bust and Hips measurement based on the layout. It is necessary to take into account the degree of extensibility of the fabric. The finished product may have a smaller width than according to the measurements of the figure.
Convert 50% of the chest dart into a decrease in the slope of the shoulder slope.
For a better fit, lengthen the side cut of the shelf on the chest area upward by 1.0-1.5 cm.
Align the length and shape of the side and shoulder lines of the front and back.
Equalize the lengths of the armhole and sleeve cuff cuts.
Specify the length of the finished product.

Making a knitted dress

A knitted dress requires fewer technological operations than a similar fabric product. The elastic fabric, hugging the figure, allows you to ignore darts to create volumes and change planes.

vovk.com

After making the structure, it is necessary to cut out the parts from the prepared fabric, setting aside reserves for processing the seams. The most convenient way to assemble a knitted dress is to sew it on a machine with an overcast stitch. A margin of 0.5-0.7 cm is sufficient for stitching sections with an overlocker; for hemming the bottoms and finishing the neckline, a margin of 1.5-2.0 cm is necessary.

Sequence of collecting a knitted dress

Baste the product and try it on.
Sew side and shoulder seams.
Sew in sleeves or process armholes according to the model.
Finish the neckline with binding made from the base material or finish it with a facing.
Hem the bottom of the product with a wide seam, double cover stitch.

The assembly of a knitwear dress depends on the design of the model, the type and number of decorative elements. Due to the ability of knitwear to undergo soft deformation, the product forgives minor errors in design and assembly. A huge advantage of knitted products is the comfort to wear and ease of manufacture.

In this article I will show my construction basic patterns for knitwear without darts. This base is suitable for sewing tight-fitting and not very tight-fitting turtleneck and dresses. She won't fit for sweatshirts and loose-fitting items with dropped sleeves.

In principle, knitwear can be cut using different warp patterns:

The regular one is suitable for knitwear if you don’t mind darts. That is, we cut it as if from ordinary fabric. You can choose a knitted fabric with a pattern on which darts will not be noticeable.

Also, a regular base pattern with a chest dart is suitable for modeling knitwear with draperies.

The base pattern with a sleeve is suitable for loose-fitting items.

And in this article, as I already said, we will analyze the construction of the base pattern for a knitted product without darts. This construction is very similar to the construction of the base pattern for a children's shoulder product.

We will need measurements and increases (decreases if the value has a minus sign):

Ssh
Сг3
St
Sat
DTS
accident
Vg
Military industrial complex

Shs
Shg
Shp
Vprz
dr
Op
Ozap
Di

Pg - from -2 to +2 cm.
Pshs - Pg/2
Pshp - Pg/2
Fri – from -2 to +2 cm
Pb - from -2 to +2 cm
Pspr - from -1 to +1.5 cm
Pop - -2 to 2 cm

The increases depend on the degree of fit of the product and on the degree of extensibility of the knitted fabric.

A ready-made solution for those who don’t want to draw:

Parametric pattern of knitwear (turtlenecks, dresses)

The pattern was developed in the program.
You enter your measurements and the program instantly changes the drawing to your size.

590 RUR

Creating a drawing grid

1. We start building from point A. Draw a horizontal line to the right and plot the width of the product along the chest line:
Aa1 = Cr3 + Pg. Pg = 2-(-2) cm. That is, the increase along the chest line (Pg) for products sewn according to this pattern can be from 2 to -2 cm! If the increase is with a minus sign, then it is already a decrease.

2. Also from point A to the right we set aside the width of the backrest. It is equal to the measure Shs + increase Pshs:
Aa = Shs + Pshs. The increase in Pshs for such products is equal to 1/2 of the increase in Pg. Pshs = Pg/2.

3. We set the width of the shelf from point a1 to the left along the same horizontal line. It is equal to the measure Шг + increase Пшп:
a1a2 = Shg + Pshp. The increase in Psh is also equal to 1/2 of the increase in Pg. Pshp = Pg/2.

4. The width of the armhole segment aa2 was obtained as a result of construction. aa2 = (Cr3+Pg) - (Shs+Pshs) - (Shg+Pshp).

5. Now from point A downwards, vertically we set aside the value Vprz and the increase in the freedom of the armhole Pspr. If the sleeve is narrow, like a turtleneck, then Pspr we take 0 or a negative value of 0 - (-1) cm. If your dress and sleeve are wider than a turtleneck, then we take a positive increase of 0 - 1.5 cm.
AG = Vprz + Ppr.

Draw a horizontal line from point G to the right. This is the chest line. We lower perpendiculars from points a, a2 and a1 to this line, thereby obtaining points G3, G4 and G1.

6. From point A downwards we lay down the segment AT.
AT = Dts.

7. From point T downwards we plot the distance TB:
TB = 0.5Dts – 2 cm.

8. And from point A downwards we set aside the length of the product. AN = Di.

Now from points T, B, and H we draw horizontal lines to the right:

waist line from point T
hip line from point B
bottom line from point H

And at the intersection of these lines with the vertical descended from point a1 downwards we put the points T1, B1, H1.

Building the back

9. From point A to the right, set aside the width of the back neck - AA2.
AA2 = Ssh / 3.

10. From point A2, lower a perpendicular equal to the height of the sprout.
A2A1 = AA2 / 3

Connect point A1 to the middle of the back and place point A0. Let's draw a line for the back neckline by connecting points A0A2 with a smooth line.

11. The position of the final shoulder point P1 is found by intersecting two arcs: the first arc from point A2 with a radius equal to the shoulder width Шп and the second arc with a radius equal to the oblique shoulder height measurement Впк.

12. To design the back armhole line, we find auxiliary points P3, c, G2.

From point P1 to line aG3 we restore the perpendicular and the resulting intersection point is designated as point P2. We measure the segment G3P2 in the drawing. Now from point G3 upward we set aside a value equal to 1/3 of the distance G3P2 plus 2 cm.
G3P3 = G3P2 / 3 + 2 cm.

14. Point G2 is the middle of the armhole, which means G3G2 = G3G4/2.

We connect points P1, P3, c, G2 with a smooth line - this is the back armhole.
We lower a perpendicular from point G2 down to the bottom line and get the points:
T2 – at the waist line,
B2 – on the hip line,
H2 – on the bottom line.

Building a shelf

15. Find the position of the top of the shelf neck. From point T1 upward we lay off the segment T1A3 equal to the measure Dtp.

16. The width of the neck of the shelf, equal to the width of the neck of the back, is set aside from point A3 to the left. A3A4 = AA2.

17. We set the depth of the shelf neck from point A3 down and place point A5.
A3A5 = A3A4 + 1 cm = 6 + 1 = 7 cm. Now let’s draw the line of the neck of the shelf with a smooth line connecting points A4 and A5.

18. Find the top of the shelf armhole. From point G4 up along the line G4a2 we will plot the segment G4P4 = G3P2. We measure the value of G3P2 with a ruler in the drawing.

19. We find the auxiliary point P6 by dividing the segment G4P4 by 3. G4P6 = G4P4/3.

20. From point P6, through point P4, draw an arc to the left.
P6P5 = P6P4 in an arc.

21. From point A4 to this arc we make a notch with a radius equal to the width of the shoulder Шп, and we get the point of intersection of two arcs P5. P5 is the final shoulder point. We connect points A4 and P5 with a straight line - this is the shoulder section of the shelf.

Point P5 can be found in another way. Also using the intersection of two arcs. One arc is also made of A4, with a radius equal to the width of the shoulder Шп. And the second arc from point T1, with a radius equal to the measurement Bpk2 (the measurement should be taken not from the back, but from the point of intersection of the waist line with the horizontal middle of the front to the end point of the shoulder seam. The tape should pass through the protruding points of the chest).

22. From point G4 we draw a bisector G4c = 0.2 times the width of the armhole.
Г4с = 0.2Г4Г3.
To create a beautiful armhole line, we connect points P6 and P5 with a straight line and from the middle of this segment we restore a perpendicular equal to 0.5 - 1 cm. Through points P5, 1, P6, s, G2 we draw a smooth armhole line.

23. In order to find out the position of the side sections of the back and front along the hip line, let’s substitute the measurements and increments into the formula: ((Cr3+Pg) - (Sb+Pb))/2. If the result is positive, then the segment B2B3 is postponed to the left, and the segment B2B4 is postponed to the right. If your result is negative, then we put segment B2B3 to the right, and segment B2B4 to the left. If your result is zero, then points B3 and B4 will coincide with point B2.

24. Find the position of the side cuts along the waist line. To do this, from point T2 to the left and right, we set aside the distances T2T3 = T2T4 = tuck opening / 2. And we calculate the tuck opening using the formula ((Cr3 + Pg) – (St + Pt))/2. That is, the same as for a fabric product.
And we get T2T3 = T2T4 = ((Cr3 + Pg) – (St + Pt))/4.
There are no waist darts here. The fit is ensured by decreases.

Let's connect points G2, T3, B3 and H3 with smooth lines - this is the line of the side cut (seam) of the back.
Let's connect points G2, T4, B4 and H4 with smooth lines - this is the line of the side cut (seam) of the shelf.
Let's decorate the side cuts with smooth, beautiful lines, avoiding sharp corners.
If you do not want to fit your product, then we do not build points T3 and T4. Then the side cut line of the back will pass through points G2, T2, B3, H3, and the side cut line of the shelf will pass through points G2, T2, B4, H4.

25. The bottom line of the back passes through points H and H3, the bottom line of the shelf passes through H2 and H4. If you have a protruding belly or large breasts, then the line of the bottom of the shelf needs to be extended by 0.5 - 1.5 cm from point H1 and connected with H2 with a smooth line.

Construction of the sleeve

Before you start constructing a sleeve drawing, you need to know the height of the collar. To do this, connect points P1 and P5 in the drawing of the back and shelf with a straight line. We find the middle of this segment and place point O. From point O down, to the line Г3Г4 we lower the perpendicular and place point O1. Distance OO1 is the vertical diameter of the armhole.

The height of the sleeve rim O1O2 is equal to the vertical diameter OO1 minus the segment OO2. The size of the OO2 segment depends on the size of the hand in the forearm area:
- for sizes 44-46 OO2 = 2.5 cm;
- for sizes 48-52 OO2 = 2 cm;
- for sizes 54-58 OO2 = 1.5 cm;
- for size 60 and more OO2 = 1 cm.

1. We begin to build a new pattern. Let's draw two mutually perpendicular lines intersecting at point O.
Up from point O we set the height of the edge. See how to find it just above.
ОО2 = О1О2 (in the drawing of the back and shelf).
Draw a horizontal line through point O2.

2. We put the length of the sleeve according to the measurement (Dr) from point O2 down, we get point M. O2M=Dr.
O2M – midline of the sleeve.
We will also draw a horizontal line through point M.

3. We put the sleeve width from point O to the right and left, we get points P1 and P2.
OR1=OR2=Shruk.
Shruk = (Op+Pop)/2+0.5 cm.
We calculate the width of the sleeve (Shruk) at the level of the armhole depth depending on the measurement of the shoulder circumference (Op) and the increase in loose fit to the shoulder circumference (Pop).
The increase can also be either positive or negative, depending on the desired degree of fit.

4. Now from point O to the right we lay off the segment ORp. It is equal to half the segment OP1 plus 0.5 cm.
ORp = OR1 / 2 + 0.5 cm.
And from point O to the left we lay off the segment ORl. It is equal to half the segment OP2 plus 0.5 cm.
ORl = OR2 / 2 + 0.5 cm.
Let us restore the perpendiculars from points Рл and Рп upwards, to the intersection with the horizontal line drawn earlier through point O2. We get points O3 and O4.

5. From the point Рл upward we lay off the segment РлР3 = Г3П3 (from the drawing of the back). From the point Рп upward we lay off the segment РпР6 = Г4П6 (from the drawing of the shelf).
We connect point P2 with point P3 and divide the resulting segment in half at point b1. The perpendicular b1b2 is equal to 0.5 - 1.5 cm.

6. Divide the segment O2O3 in half and place point O6.
O2O6 = O2O3 / 2.
Let's connect point P3 to point O6 with a straight line. And from point O6 we draw the bisector of angle P3 O6 O2, equal to 1 – 2 cm. O6O61 = 1 – 2 cm.
Let's draw the ulnar (back) side of the sleeve cap with a smooth line through points P2, B2, P3, O61, O2.

7. From point O2 to the right we lay off a segment O2O5 equal to O2O4 / 2 + 1 cm.
O2O5 = O2O4 / 2 + 1.
We connect point O5 with point P6 with a straight line.
Bisector O5O51 = 1.5 – 2 cm.

8. The bisector Рпс1 is equal to the segment Г4с from the drawing of the shelf.

Let's draw the front side of the sleeve cap with a smooth line through points P1, c1, P6, O51, O2.

9. To construct the bottom of the sleeve, we lay off horizontally from point M to the right and left segments equal to the width of the sleeve at the bottom/2. As a rule, this value is equal to the Ozap measurement (wrist circumference). We put points M2 and M1.
MM1 = MM2 = Ozap/2.

10. Connect points M2 and M1 with points P2 and P1, respectively.
We divide the segments P1M1 and P2M2 in half and from the middle we restore the perpendiculars ll1 and pp1 = 0.5 - 1.5 cm.
We draw lines Р1п1М1 and Р2л1М2 with smooth concave curves

If the hand is full, then we leave a straight line or, on the contrary, make it convex.

This completes the construction. If you have questions, write in the comments.

A selection of simple models with simple patterns that even beginners can handle. Without spending a lot of time, in an hour and a half, the new update is ready!
Spectacular dress
An easy dress pattern, which, if desired and with a wide belt, can unexpectedly turn out to be a tunic, which is not a sin to wear with tight black trousers and high platform shoes. Believe me, a beginner without sewing skills can sew a short dress!
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This pattern for a girl with a height of 164-170 cm and size 46,48,50 will require 100 cm of knitted fabric with a width of 150 cm. Although, if desired, you can always remake this pattern to any size. The skirt is 34 cm long to the middle of the thigh, in the original photo the length of the skirt is approximately 45-50 cm and a piece of fabric must be taken 15-20 cm longer.
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Fold the fabric with the right side inward, pin along the edge, fold, and several pins scattered throughout the entire fabric. Step back 1-2 cm from the edge of the edge, mark a line and cut the edge along this 1 line. Again, step back 1.5-2 cm from the cut and mark a line, this is the middle of the back.
Step back 1.5 cm from the top cut and draw a horizontal line, on this horizontal line from (.) And to the left, mark points after 11 cm and after 34 cm (.) B.
From point (.) A down the fold after 56 cm, mark (.) B, and from (.) B to the left horizontal, on it 24 cm (.) E and after 36 cm (.) D.
From (.)B downwards the vertical is 33 cm, and from (.)D to the left the vertical is 10 cm.
From (.) G vertical upward until it intersects with the horizontal from (.) D. Make a mate.
From (.) G up, mark 2 cm and smoothly connect with (.) E.
All that remains is to build the boat neck and the upper part of the shelf is ready. From (.) A, put 4 cm down and smoothly connect to the point 11 cm.
Now, before continuing further construction, you need to draw seam allowances. On knitwear, a 1 cm allowance is sufficient. Draw seam allowances along the shoulder seam, neckline, armhole, side seam and hem.
Next you need to build the skirt. Step back down from (.) D 2 cm and from this point draw a horizontal line equal to one quarter of the measurement of your hips minus 2-4 cm (this value depends on the stretchability of the knitwear, the more it stretches, the larger this number, but don’t worry, because fitting will decide everything.) From this point (.) down vertical.
Further down the fold is the desired length of the skirt, I want 34 cm and from this point to the left horizontally until it intersects with the vertical.
From conditional (.) B (conditional because we stepped down 2 cm) to the left one quarter of the measurement of your waist minus 2-4 cm. I have it 19. I wanted to make the waist line 2 cm lower, so the measurements changed accordingly.
Connect point 19 with a smooth pattern line to the side seam. During the fitting, the side seam is adjusted. Draw a seam allowance of 1 cm along the waistline and side seam, a seam allowance of 3-4 cm at the bottom.
Cut out the front and skirt. Attach the shelf to the opposite upper cut, prick, and shallow. Take your time to cut. First you need to draw the neck of the back in accordance with the drawing. Place the skirt, pin and cut out the back and skirt pieces.
Product assembly.
There is a seam on the back, and there you can leave a small cut and make an air loop. Sew back seam. Process the neck of the back and shelves. Connect shoulder seams. The length of the seam to your taste is 5-7 cm or more from point 11. Connect the side seams, the bottom of the sleeve from (.) B by 4-5 cm. Finish the bottom and the cut of the sleeves. Connect the side seams on the skirt. Sew the middle seam of the skirt and, if you want, make a slit for comfortable walking. Gather on the back and front of the bodice. Pair with a skirt. Process the bottom of the skirt. The dress is sewn with a knitting needle, a zigzag seam or a special knitted seam.