How to wear moccasins correctly. Yuketen Blutcher - moccasins with American tradition

The inhabitants of Europe, who first arrived in North America in the 15th century, drew attention to indian shoes. The natives wore classic moccasins made of leather.

The oldest Indian shoes from America

The oldest example of the product is a shoe that was worn by an ancient inhabitant of Otzi about 5 thousand years ago. It was something between moccasins and sandals. The top of the product was made in the form of straps made of leather and grass, and the outsole was made of bearskin. The woven shoes of the Indians, which existed 10 thousand years ago, were replaced by leather moccasins.

Moccasins are one of the oldest types of traditional shoes of the Indians who lived in America. Since the products were intended for movement on rocky terrain, their soles were quite rough and powerful. Products designed for hunting were very comfortable, practical and silent. Shoe material: deer, elk or buffalo skin. By the way, it was not difficult to repair this one or repair it on the way, because it was not particularly delicate.

There were 2 types of shoes: one-piece and rawhide products. The first ones were sewn from a single piece of cloth and fastened in the central part of the product (from the toe to the instep). To mask the seam, the middle of the rise, as a rule, was decorated with embroidery or an oblong tongue.

In the 18th century, the Indians made mainly rawhide products. The top of moccasins was made of suede, and the thick and rough outsole was made of rawhide. For a long time, products were sewn together with the help of animal tendons, and later they began to use strong nylon threads. The true shoes of the Indians, moccasins, later became widespread in Europe.

Shoes used by the Indians in the 19th century

Indians of various tribes living in the regions of Mexico also used moccasins. These are soft shoes with flat soles made of factory-made calfskin without fasteners and laces, but with a tongue at the instep, decorated with fringe or tassels. The fringe was allegedly used to destroy all possible traces of the wearer. When sewing the top of the product, the workpiece is put on the block and connected using an external seam. Often, shoes have a powerful heel (as on products for men) and decorative lacing located around the perimeter of the heel.

In modern times, the appearance of moccasins, as well as the practicality and quality of tailoring, have changed significantly (do not forget that you can). This type of footwear is today made by sewing, which allows you to get rid of excess material and supplement the product with a heel. The inner surface of the winter version of the shoe is insulated with bison fur. Moccasins are decorated with leather stripes, appliqués, silk thread fringe, silver or cupronickel buttons, shiny beads, and porcupine quills. Improved moccasins have become lighter and more comfortable.

It seems incredible, but loved by the whole world, moccasins are also one of the oldest types of shoes.

The very first moccasins in the history of mankind

This oldest type of shoe was invented by the Indians of North America, and the name comes from the word "mohkisson", which was present in the dialect of the Algonquin Indians.

It was previously believed that the first moccasins were created as early as 5,000 years ago, but during recent excavations conducted in a cave in Armenia in 2008, an even older pair of similar shoes dating back 5,500 years was discovered. Its owner had a foot size 37 (foot length 24.5 cm), and the products themselves were made of cowhide.

Interestingly, the shoes of the Indians from pieces of skin of various animals replaced the wicker shoes that existed 8-10 thousand years ago. And if initially moccasins were made from whole pieces of leather, then in 700-900 AD. they began to be sewn, thanks to which a pronounced heel part (back) appeared and excess skin disappeared.

Moccasins during the colonial period

Improving from century to century, by the 18-19 centuries, Indian shoes began to be classified into 2 categories:

• one-piece,
• Rawhide.

The former were more common among the Indians of the northeastern and southeastern tribes: they were cut out in a whole canvas and, as a rule, sewn together in the center or side. Even then, moccasins began to be decorated with embroidery and complement the side seam with a tongue. This shoe was versatile - soft, durable, comfortable and silent, it was perfect for hunting and for any other activity. The skin of elk, bison or deer served as the starting material for its manufacture.

Moccasins were almost never left unpainted - the pale hue became brighter as a result of the method of smoking, processing time and the type of firewood used for the fire.

Even then, each Indian tribe formed its own secrets and unique features of making moccasins:

• The Iroquois made winter shoes from the skin of an elk, and they used pieces of leather from the hind legs, which resembled a human foot in shape,
• The Athapascans made trousers and shoes as a single unit,
• Tribes on the southern plains always attached a fringe to the heel seam.

By the way, the fringe on such shoes was not just a decor - it performed protective functions: it was believed that in this way it was possible to cover both the physical and mental traces of its owner.

Indian shoes: 18-19 centuries

In the 19th century, the Indians made mostly rawhide moccasins, and it was then that suede began to be used as a top. The role of the sole was performed by a thicker, rougher and tougher rawhide.

An interesting fact is that it was during this period of time that the tendon threads used to sew shoe parts were replaced with strong nylon threads. At the same time (that's what industrialization is doing!) rawhide was replaced by calfskin, made in factories.

The color scheme has also changed. Now white skin was left as is, and if necessary, to obtain other shades, coloring pigments, both natural and artificial, began to be used.

An important difference between the moccasins of that time and today is the fact that the shoes of the century before last were knee-high, both for women and men, which made it possible to reliably protect the legs from snake bites, abrasions and scratches.

By the way, pay attention to the tongue of moccasins - from the end of the 19th century it began to be made separately, it had a rectangular or trapezoidal shape. However, occasionally one could meet a pair of shoes with a forked tongue - it symbolized strength and power, resembling a buffalo footprint.

By this time, Indian shoes are becoming more aesthetic, richly decorated with beads, appliqués, fringes of various types (including silk threads) and even porcupine quills.

Moccasins today and tomorrow - will they be worn in 100 years?

Well, the most famous industrial moccasins are, without a doubt, the products of a shoe factory. minnetonka moccasin, which began to be produced in 1946, becoming a cult brand. Their models are worn by Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and other stars.

In 1958, another American brand appeared - Hush Puppies, which began to produce moccasins, but not simple ones, but with a latex insole and a soft cushion under the heel. The products of this company became especially popular in the 90s, when colored moccasins appeared in the assortment. Europe has not lagged behind.

If at first moccasins were imported from North America as souvenirs, then later shoe production began to open - these are Italian brands Arfango, Vittorio Spernanzoni, Car Shoe, French Celine. The most famous in the world are studded moccasins from the Italian factory Tod's - they were worn by the inimitable Audrey Hepburn, and Bill Clinton collected the largest collection of shoes from this brand.

Fashion designers and fashion designers are sure that given the comfort and aesthetics of moccasins, they will be in trend for another 50-70 years. Most likely, in the future, more inexpensive and practical material will be used, perhaps the design will also change, but what will definitely remain unchanged is their amazing comfort!

In pre-colonial and colonial times, moccasins were used by Indians in almost all of what is now the United States and Canada. They were less common in California, on the northwest coast, on the Plateau, where not only in warm weather they preferred to walk barefoot, but also in winter, using moccasins only to protect their feet from rough ground and in severe frosts. In the Southwestern United States, woven and leather sandals were used in antiquity. Various woven shoes were also used in the Southeast, where leather moccasins, apparently, began to spread only about 1000 years ago. And also throughout the southern part of the mainland, it was often preferred to walk barefoot. And for women, wearing moccasins was even less typical. Moccasins were also used by European settlers, especially hunters, trappers, explorers, and others.

Different tribes had their own traditional ways of cutting moccasins. Initially, only rawhide of deer, elk, bison, less often beaver or other animals was used, but quite early the Indians also began to use purchased tanned skins. Initially, moccasins were sewn only with the help of an awl or piercing with sinew threads, vegetable fibers and leather straps, or they used needles made of bone, forged copper. Porcupine quills and plant thorns were also used. Later, steel needles and factory threads appeared.

The shoes of the peoples of the North and the Far East have a certain resemblance to Indian moccasins. Southwest moccasins have counterparts in northern Africa.

Cut Features

One-piece moccasins with center seam embellished with porcupine quills, East Woodland, XVIII or early. 19th century

Loafers with soft soles

In the forest zone and originally on the Great Plains, moccasins were made entirely of soft suede rawhide. buckskin, deerskin), devoid of the front surface. The skin was oriented with the bakhtarma inward. Patterns and, accordingly, finished products from different tribes differed in shape, small details and ornamentation. Although this does not exclude the use of several types of cuts in one tribe, since similar types of moccasins were used by a variety of peoples. But each pair of moccasins is usually very individual.

More often completely or with the exception of small details, moccasins were cut from one piece of material. Archaic is the simplest version of a moccasin with one vertical seam that forms folds (small or very large) in the middle of the rise ( puckered-center-seam-style). There is a second seam at the back. Lillooet, Nootka, Cherokee, Seminole, Alabama, Muscogee moccasins of this style (they are also called "swamp moccasins") were more often sewn not with veins, but with leather straps. At the same time, instead of a knot on the toe itself, a smooth or serrated extended tip of the strap remains. In the Southeast, the soles of moccasins could be coated with tree resin for protection. Moccasins with a central seam until the middle of the 18th century. worn by the Apaches. They are preserved for ritual dance by the Navajo and as ceremonial dance by the Osage. The latter are sewn together through only four pairs of holes in front and two pairs in the back using pieces of coarse veins. Such a cut of the modoki complemented chopped off toe, but only on summer moccasins. Also the simplest, kuapo moccasins and women's osage, however, they have a seam that runs not along the rise, but along the sole. Later, the old style often began to be replaced by moccasins of other cuts.

On the northern and central plains, as well as in the forest zone and in the mountains, many tribes used moccasins made of one piece of soft leather, having a side seam passing along the toe and then only from the outside to the heel. They often had a one-piece tongue, but it could also be sewn on or absent altogether. It is believed that under the influence of European shoes, it was moccasins with a side seam that became the model for moccasins with a hard sole (mainly on the plains). Soft moccasins of the old type with a side seam have not disappeared from use. So among the Blackfoot they got the name "real moccasins." This cut was also preserved for winter moccasins made with fur inside.

Apparently, patching worn moccasins with soft soles was not common, but some Indians (for example, modocs), after the moccasins were worn, sewed on a hard sole. And since the soles of both types wore out quickly, when going on a campaign, the warrior had more than one pair of spare moccasins. If the sole of an embroidered moccasin with a hard sole was rubbed, then it was thrown away, and the decorated top was used again.

In moccasins with a median cut at the instep, into which the lower wedge-shaped part of the tongue is sewn, not only soft, but also hard soles were used. Moccasins with hard soles of Mescalero Apaches have a long and narrow insert, for utes it is shorter, and for Osage the cut is left open, without a tongue, but there are holes for a lace in its lower part.

Apache boots painted with paint

Pants with Athabaskan moccasins

High moccasins

Often moccasins do not have decorative, but such ankle flaps or cuffs of different heights, which, if they are not embroidered, can be raised or wrapped down. Decorated cuffs, rather, were always turned up. Covering the bottom of the leggings, they save from the cold and snow. Sometimes there are cuffs and decorative lapels. Sometimes solid cuffs are sewn to the neck without a cut in front and they are half bent outwards. Vertical seam style moccasins ( puckered-center-seam-style) are cut in one piece with cuffs. High cuffs can sometimes have extensions at the front to help wrap them tighter. Raised cuffs are tied with long laces ( ankle band).

Since the end of the 19th century, there have been specimens fastened on the side or front with copper or any other buttons. A rare variant is the clasp on a pair of Cheyenne moccasins. They have a beaded strap sewn to the raised rounded fabric cuff only in the area of ​​the heel seam. The front strap fastens with a button. With ordinary narrow cuffs, one button and a loop are located at their upper corners. At higher cuffs, the buttons are located on their extensions. There are already two to five of them. On one pair of non-Persian high loafers, they even form a tight row of 11 pieces. This is already a transitional option for the next type of moccasins. A button closure can sometimes be used in conjunction with lacing.

In the tribes of the southern part of the Great Plains (Kiowa, Comanche, southern Cheyenne), partly in the Southwest (Apache), for unmarried women, moccasins (both with soft and hard soles) can be sewn with leggings that are held by garters under the knees. Leggings often have a slit at the side or near the front that is closed with buttons (sometimes forming a tight row), tied with leather ties, or simply wrapped and wrapped with laces. When using ties, a pair of rows of brass buttons can be sewn onto the valve only for beauty. The top of the bootlegs is often wrapped down and decorated with fringe. Some leggings without a cut have a full leg length, which is confirmed by their continuous ornamentation. For others, the length is much reduced, as it is designed to wrap the bootleg out and down. Wrapping can be multi-layered (down-up or down-up-down-up). At the same time, ornamented and empty surfaces are distributed in such a way that it is the ornamented ones that are on the outside. In other tribes, leggings and moccasins were not sewn together (some tribes of the Plains, Plateau and Great Basin). The Arapaho and the Blackfoot used both options. Sew-on leggings were sometimes cloth.

Moccasins of the Southwest (Pueblo, Navajo, Apache, Paiute, Walapai, Yuma) have high cuffs that are tied or fastened on the side with buttons, for example, from German silver(nickel silver) or Navajo silver work. Although at the beginning of the 20th century there were Apache moccasins with a front closure (complemented with a lace encircling the moccasins at the level of the fold of the foot). (Rarely, at the beginning of the 20th century, and among more northern Indians, low tops without lapels could also be fastened with buttons on the side.) Pueblo women's moccasins of a similar cut have one very long cuff made of thick white leather, which is wrapped several times around the leg and tied with a strap below and above the knee. But there is also an option when the windings in the form of narrower stripes or bandages of the same skin are not connected to the cuffs of high moccasins. Often, both men's and women's moccasins of the Southwest are knee-high boots with one-piece shafts or similarly fastened at the side. In the Navajo and Pueblo they are sometimes only mid-calf high. If such boots made of soft leather do not have ties on top, then their tops fall down like an accordion. The tops are either sewn separately to the boots, or cut with them as one piece. In the latter version, sewing goes directly to the sole.

Also in the forest regions (Atabaskans and Mikmaks), in addition to ordinary moccasins with soft soles, knee-length boots were also known, and the Athabaskans also had shoes that were one with the pants. That is, moccasins were sewn to the trousers. The winter version was usually sewn from skins with fur inside. The furs of various animals were used. Moccasins could also be made of fish skin. The soles of the stockings were sewn separately, from the same " rovduga" or from the skin of a bear and a beluga whale (coastal athabaskans). In different Athabascan tribes, such trousers were worn either only by women in winter in a dwelling, or by men and women at different times of the year. In wet weather, over ordinary shoes, they also put on "... upper torbasas made of fish skins."

In the later period, Canadian white hunters and Indians (Cree) began to use high moccasin boots (English moccasin boots, plainsman style) with a tightening lacing of the European type in front, along the entire shaft.

Lacing

Moccasin with lace-up cuff Thomas Bateman

A feature of moccasins is that they usually do not have cross-lacing through parallel rows of holes. In plain types, laces (leather straps) are passed through two or four (occasionally more) paired supporting holes (cuts) located around the neck in the middle of the height of the moccasin. The laces tie in the crook of the foot or rise a little higher to the corners of the slit through a pair of double eyelets. Less often, the entire lace passes under the very neck of the moccasin. Sometimes the laces are also passed through a pair of holes on the tongue or passed through single holes on opposite upper corners of the cut. It happens that they do not cover the back of the moccasins, but are fixed in the holes on the sides with the help of knots. If there are only two holes at the corners of the front cut, then short ties are passed through them and tied. Or the ties are double and held in the holes with knots. Although there is an option when two ties are used: a long one - from the bottom through the supporting holes and a short one - through the upper corner holes. The laces are tied in front with a bow (with two laces - two bows).

Often a cloth tape, narrow or wide, is used for the sling. It can also pass under the lowered lapel. A fabric ribbon is also sewn along the edge of the entire neck like a fringe, and its free ends form ties. But in the same place, the lapel can form a drawstring stitched with threads, through which a leather lace is passed. More rarely, short ribbon ties are simply sewn to the front corners of the neckline.

Moccasins with high cuffs have a much longer drawstring so that they can be wrapped around the calf to hold the cuffs up. They are also passed through paired or single holes, which are in their usual place or higher, at the bottom of the cuffs. Similar moccasins montagnier and naskapi may have leather loops instead of holes, which contributes to tightness. Cuffs with front lugs may have lugs at the ends that aid in tying. In moccasins of the forest tribes, a long leather lace can simply (without supporting holes) wrap the neck a couple of times at the junction with the cuff raised up. The laces can be skipped not only from back to front, but also from front to back. According to the second option, the laces are passed through only two front holes, cross and go back. They cover the cuffs twice without the use of additional holes and are tied in front. Another option is when the lace goes as usual from back to front, makes a turn and ties at the back.

Moccasins-boots are also tied at the junction of the foot and lower leg. They just do not require such long laces. In the Southwest, moccasin-boot laces can be passed not just through holes, but through loops formed by strips of leather or drawstrings from rows of four strands of beads. If the tops are made of sufficiently soft leather, then they also have holding ties along the top of the tops. If the upper part has a lapel, then the lace is hidden under it. To support it, there is sometimes a pair of double holes near the lapel cut.

The oldest known moccasins also have bandages through the sole and instep, which was not practiced later. There are examples of imitation of the European way of lacing through holes (Hurons) and through three pairs of brass rings sewn on the central section (Iroquois). European style lacing stand out late style high moccasin boots plainsman. They do not have a cut in front along the entire bootleg, but two folds or sewn strips of leather with holes along the edges, through which cross-lacing is made.

Decoration

Hopi dance men's moccasins. End of the 19th century

Comanche Dusters, 1880-1890

The design of the moccasin followed the prevailing tribal style and used the symbols of this tribe. At the same time, the specifically embedded meaning of the pattern was often clear only to the owner himself. Moccasins are often embroidered with beads, dyed porcupine quills and elk hair, among other materials, and patterned with paint. The latter was typical, for example, for the tribes of the northeastern coast of the United States and Canada in the 17th century. The design has a certain symbolic meaning. Also, moccasins are dyed in whole or in part. Smoking also adds color, although from time to time there was a fashion - including during the reservation period - for the use of white leather. Lapels of moccasins are also sometimes embroidered, for example, with porcupine quills. Sometimes lapels are made of fabric or sheathed with fabric appliqué. But high folding cuffs, with rare exceptions, do not decorate. The long tongue of the moccasin is often embroidered with beads. A stripe of lazy stitch beadwork can cover the lace that runs around the neck, forming a kind of drawstring, solid or from separate fragments. The laces themselves can also be decorated. The back part, which is not tied, is occasionally wrapped with colored porcupine quills, and the laces of modern Athabascan moccasins are decorated at the ends with tassels of colored woolen threads. In the steppe tribes, since 1880 (on reservations), even the soles of moccasins were embroidered with beads (rarely with porcupine quills). It is believed that they were intended for funeral, wedding and other ceremonies, although it is known that they were walked. An exceptionally rare adornment is the perforation of the top of a moccasin (the Blackfoot Bears military society).

The tribes of the southern plains (Comanche, Kiowa, Kiowa Apache, Cheyenne, Arapaho, Wichita, Tonkawa, less Apache) are characterized by the so-called "dusters" (English dusters, literally - dusters) - moccasins with a long fringe on the instep and a vertical heel seam . The fringe on the heel seam may not be cut completely, but in such a way that a wide whole flap remains on top. The fringe on the rise can be replaced by a row of hanging tin cones. Some soft partridge-style Ojibwe moccasins have a not very long fringe along the center seam.

Occasionally, flat moccasins with a hard sole are decorated with a short fringe around the entire sole, which is cut from a protruding welt strip. But for moccasins with a hard sole, as well as for soft ones with an outer side seam, this fringe can be quite long. At the same time, it is complicated by the transverse connection of all the fringes with a cord and winding each at the base with porcupine quills. Such a fringe does not capture the inside of the moccasin, but it can be complemented by an incredibly long fringe on the vertical heel seam. Moccasins with soft soles were decorated with a short fringe along the circular side seam of Plateau (British Columbia) nlaka-pamuki. It was either applied over the seam, or also sewn in as a welt. The fringe was made circular, limited to the outer side, or occupied only part of the outer side seam.

Moccasins of the steppe tribes sometimes have on the heel, in the center of the sole seam, a fringe of just one or two or three short or long stripes. In the Blackfoot, the heel fringe is partially wrapped with porcupine quills or beads, and is cross-connected with large beads. Or beads are strung on fringes. For moccasins with soft soles, such a pattern element as a heel tongue may not be sewn on, but left free ( trailer), in the form of a simple square of skin or cut into cloves or fringes. Also left hanging on the heel are not completely removed moon-shaped cutouts, which are obtained with a T-shaped seam. Very rarely, the neck of a moccasin is cut into a fringe.

The Cheyenne had decoration for the best men's moccasins in the form of buffalo tails sewn to the heels or strips from the beard of a buffalo that dragged along the ground. A similar design of moccasins could refer to the system of gradation of feats. So, the tails of a coyote, skunk or fox were sewn to the moccasins, denoting the killed enemies (for the Crow, each of them meant one feat). Bodmer's paintings show how they were attached to the back of the heels or to the neck, or to the side - to the outer corner of the lapel. Other decorations of mandan and hidatsa moccasins are also captured there: wide false fur lapels (which can be either with short or very long hair) and very long outer ends of such lapels dragging a ribbon along the ground. The latter are also fur, but on the other hand they are painted red and decorated with embroidery along the edge. Such lapels may not be connected to moccasins, but fastened over them with their own strings. They were made with fur outward or inward. Such decorations made of bear fur, along with claws, were used, for example, by Sioux shamans. The mandans also have an even more bulky decoration. A tail is attached to the heels, which has a red color, elongated with an ornament with four hair strands at the end, which are decorated with their usual winding and beads.

On the southern plains, the flaps of the leggings of high women's moccasins were often decorated with 1-3 rows of metal plaques made of cupronickel, copper, brass or silver, smooth or ornamented. Loops for fastening were soldered on their reverse side. Navajo craftsmen made plaques from silver ingots, while the rest used converted ones from coins. From cheaper metals, the Indians stamped and turned plaques themselves, until they switched to more beautiful purchased ones.

Moccasins of the southwestern cut often do not decorate at all. The only decoration can be round plaques made of silver or cupronickel, which serve as clasps. But for the Southwest, the use of color is especially characteristic. For example, among the Pueblos, women's moccasins have soles dyed black or red ocher, while the top and leggings are naturally white. (The toe of a moccasin can be colored.) Men's moccasins (among the Pueblo Zuni, Akoma, Hopi and Navajo), on the contrary, have a light sole, and the top of the toe and sometimes the top are brown, red, blue, less often black. But the embellishments of men's Hopi and Zuni dance moccasins can be more elaborate. This also applies to the use of beads, and coloring (in squares or in the form of patterns), and other elements, for example, lapels on the tops, fringes. They have a decorative leather tongue in the middle of the instep, usually multi-layered, and their back part is covered with a kind of decoration in the form of a loosely fastened leather strip embroidered with colored threads using the macrame technique, beads or porcupine quills. Men's dance moccasins could be painted completely white on top, except for the cuffs of the tops, which were red with yellow edging and a multi-colored tongue. Ornamental non-functional tongues were also featured on high yak moccasins. The kicker was also occasionally decorated. On its front surface, in-depth patterns (Apache) were cut out and covered with paint.

Nowadays, high windings of women's pueblo moccasins are decorated with beads, which was not done before. Athapascan boots are richly decorated with embroidery and furs. There are examples when modern Indians embroider with beads and other shoes, usually sneakers, which gives them the appearance of moccasins. And Seton-Thompson advised children playing Indians to paint shoes under moccasins.

The oldest finds

Currently, the oldest known moccasins are found in a cave Hogap, Utah, moccasins dating back to 420 AD.

In the early 1930s in a cave on Cape Promontory An 800-year-old hoard of 250 moccasins has been discovered in the Great Salt Lake. They belong to the same-named culture promontory, chronologically located between the prehistoric Fremont culture and the historical Shoshone. Shoes are made in the style of "wrinkled toe", later characteristic of the tribes of the northwest coast (Tlingit, Tsimshians). There are children's and adult sizes. The material was the skin of a bison, as well as a deer, elk, pronghorn and bear. Sewn with veins and plant fibers. There are traces of repair. Many moccasins have insoles made from ground juniper bark. Some are fringed and have remnants of porcupine quill embroidery.

Fremont style moccasin from Hogap Cave, Utah, 420.



Moccasin style " hockey» from Hogap Cave, Utah, 420 Buffalo skin, grass stuffing



Moccasins from Promontory Cave I, Utah, 1225-1275.



Moccasin from Promontory Cave I, Utah, 1225-1275. Buffalo skin with wool inside and wool stuffing

Fancy moccasins

The Iroquois, in addition to ordinary moccasins, also had a peculiar old look. For him, they used a part of a whole skin from the lower leg of the hind leg of an elk, which has a suitable shape for this. Sometimes moccasins were made from the hind legs of a bear, and along with the claws. The clawed feet of large turtles were used in a similar way.

Moccasins with a hard sole could have a canvas top instead of leather - a variant of summer or poor shoes.

When repairing moccasins, the Indians could hem parts from old European boots to them (namely, the upper half with holes for lacing).

Woven moccasins

Among the Iroquois and other eastern tribes, woven moccasins made from corn leaves and wood fibers are known. It is believed that similar shoes were also used to protect leather moccasins.

Woven moccasins as a type of winter footwear or footwear for crossing rough terrain or through crusted snow were known in California, the Great Basin and the Plateau among the Modocs, Nlaka Pamuk, Shoshone, Klamath, Paiute. For difficult transitions, they could have a couple or two more in reserve. They were woven from the bark of some species of wormwood (for example, lat. Artemisia tridentata); from different types of marsh plants: a local species of sedge - body(lat. Schoenoplectus acutus), rush; in the south of the region (southern Paiutes) - from yucca; as well as other herbs. Unlike simple sandals, they were made with closed insteps or in the form of slippers and differed in several ways of weaving. Their early samples have been preserved from the Paleo-Indians, and the later ones were already influenced by Euro-American shoes.

Moccasins woven from sedge could be worn continuously for 10-20 days, and from wormwood - a little longer, but they were more laborious to manufacture. They were insulated with bark, fur or dry grass. It is believed that moccasins made of wormwood keep warm better, even after getting wet. The Nlaka Pamuk made not only low shoes from sagebrush, but also taller boots and even boots. Sometimes they were decorated with small feathers. The boots were supplemented with leather details: on the toe and bordered with a cut at the instep, which made it possible to make the usual lacing.

Use of moccasins

Many moccasins have a very long rise and a correspondingly small neck. To put on such a moccasin, you need to bend the back part inward and insert your foot like a slipper, and then pull the heel.

Thin raw material of moccasins easily gets wet, but they are also easy to dry. Usually they are hung over the hearth, where they are further treated with smoke.

In the northern regions, in winter, they wear moccasins made of skin with wool - fur inside, which is also observed on the oldest surviving samples made from bison skin. Less often they sewed with fur outside - to protect against water. Moreover, fur moccasins were preferred by women. It depends on the region, but still the additional insulation of leather moccasins was uncharacteristic. This was done with woven shoes. In winter, wool, dry marsh grass, wormwood fibers were stuffed into such moccasins, fur insoles were inserted. In mild weather, they managed only with stuffing under the foot, and in cold weather they also insulated the upper part, for example, with wormwood fibers. In colder areas and in leather moccasins, socks made of thin leather, groundhog or rabbit fur were worn and are now worn. They do without socks, but at the same time moccasins are made of double-thickness leather. Currently, in the northern Canadian forests, several thin felt inlays are used in the winter, which have the same cut as the moccasins themselves.

Since moccasins usually have gaps between the tongue and sidewalls where debris and snow can get in, some white users sewed leather triangles into these places.

In order for new moccasins to take the form of a foot more quickly, they sometimes begin to wear a new pair with soles that have not yet dried out (Sioux, Crow). Also, moccasins can be worn in the process of wearing. And, for example, Crow women, who preferred tight moccasins, recut them for themselves several times.

Distribution of shoes in North America

(American Indian Art Magazine, Summer, 1977)

The study of moccasins presents a challenge to both collectors and students of American Indian art. Apparently, the countless styles of moccasins are the cause of confusion when trying to determine tribal affiliation. However, paying attention to tailoring (cutting), materials and ornament, this can be sorted out. Time and effort will not leave you without a reward.

Plains Indian moccasins with decorated soles have attracted collectors' interest for many years. As a rule, the soles were embroidered with beads, but sometimes porcupine quills were used for this. A sufficient number of moccasins of this type have survived to this day, they can be seen in many museums and many private collections. Samples are presented in modern expositions organized by museums and in exhibition catalogs. They are also listed in many auction catalogs and hold a fairly high price at the time of sale. The interest in these moccasins has created some misunderstandings that cause concern for people who seriously study the art of the Indians.
In an attempt to provide a simple explanation for this type of moccasin decoration, merchants, writers, and collectors have coined incorrect terms, which we see also used by many museums, confident in the reliability of these misleading terms. Some of them define moccasins with decorated soles as "ceremonial", "wedding" and "funeral". The use of these terms gives the impression that such moccasins were made specifically for this purpose. This is wrong. I am not saying that they were never worn during religious events or during a Christian marriage ceremony, or were not put on the feet of the deceased before burial. However, these moccasins were not made for these specific purposes and cannot be called that.
The most exaggerated name is "ceremonial". It is used as a convenient interpretation for all kinds of Indian objects (things) that seem unusual. It is time for us to use this word more carefully. The name "wedding moccasins" should be immediately ruled out as a misnomer. It is enough to see children's moccasins in the center of PHOTO No. 2.
The term "burial moccasins" is dramatic, conjuring up a "chief" dressed in pompous attire for a journey into the Lands of the Happy Hunt. The reason for this is Hollywood, although it originates at an earlier time. The term may have come from an overzealous merchant explaining to his customers that it is impossible to wear loafers with beaded or needle-decorated soles. Some studies give reason to refute the opinion that such moccasins were intended for the dead. In remote groups (communities) in geographically scattered settlements, it was the responsibility of family and friends to prepare the body of a deceased person for burial. And this had to be done immediately. There is simply no time to make and decorate such shoes. Making moccasins in anticipation of the death of a person is not typical of the Indians and implausible. Often there are dolls on which moccasins are completely embroidered with beads. That the Indians could decorate their children's toys in a manner associated with death seems unlikely. Traces of wear are visible on many moccasins of this kind. Inside moccasins, stains from dampness or sweating of the feet are often visible. The wear on the outer sides of the soles is more than obvious. And it is quite common to see worn beads due to wearing moccasins on an uneven surface. Two pairs of moccasins, presented in PHOTO #3 and #4, show severe damage, in large spaces the beads have completely worn off. The article is accompanied by several photographs that clearly show living Indians wearing moccasins with decorated soles.
One can only guess when the idea of ​​decorating the soles of moccasins came to life. I have examined moccasins with decorated soles in many museums and private collections and found that the vast majority of them were made by westerners or teton sioux. I believe they came up with the idea during the early reservation period, a time of great change and stress for the sioux. The destruction of the old social system led to new realities of life. The popularity of Grass Dance spread, Pow Wow became more socially significant. This was important for the self-esteem of the individual and the collective reputation, for the people to believe in their future.
The restrictions of reservation life ensured that the sioux women had ample time to make elaborate, beaded and needlework items. It was a time of experimentation and innovation in their crafts and arts. The widespread adoption of factory fabrics obtained from the government, from merchants, or from ordinary reservation shops, introduced new patterns and methods of sewing. There is an extensive range of sioux-made items that are not found in collections of things made before 1880, but are visible in photographs taken before that time. These are trousers, vests, jackets (coats), gloves, hoods for women and short pants for boys.
A distinctive feature of the sioux art of the time is fully beaded pieces. Traditional items such as women's dresses, baby cradles, pipe bags and moccasins were decorated in this way. The idea of ​​full beading extended to commercial items such as small suitcases, pewter (tin) cups (mugs), and even glass bottles. The all-over moccasin decoration, including the soles, is just another example of the sioux style of beading that was popular at the time.
The few other tribal examples I have seen all come from the Fort Belknap, Montana reservation. They were made by gross ventre or assiniboin women. Fort Belknap was originally a gross ventre reservation. Later part of assiniboin was also registered here. The close association of these two tribes led to the development of a style of reservation art that was fully established around 1890. In the extensive collection of photographs taken at Fort Belknap by Sumner W. Matteson in 1905(06?), I could not find any difference in their art. I prefer to identify the specimens presented here as the Fort Belknap style unless there is information indicating tribal origin. Reservation style development occurs on several reservations inhabited by more than one tribal group. Limited knowledge and confusion about the arts and crafts featured at Fort Belknap has led to many specimens being misidentified as blackfeet. While sioux moccasins with decorated soles are commonplace, examples from Fort Belknap are not common. One pair of moccasins, attributed to assiniboin, is on display at the North Dakota Historical Museum in Bismark. Another pair can be seen at the Indian & Fur Trade Museum in Medora, North Dakota. Another pair is shown here (see PHOTO #4).

There are several publications illustrated with fully embroidered moccasins, which are attributed to other tribes, which do not coincide with earlier references. After careful examination of these photographs, I came to the conclusion that the identification was incorrect and that they were sioux moccasins. These inaccuracies probably follow from the collection history: samples were often incorrectly identified by the place of their purchase (on the reservation) ...
Moccasins with decorated soles were made for a short period of time, from the early 1880s until about 1910, when they fell out of fashion. This is exactly the period when sioux artists and craftsmen were so productive. This style of moccasin decoration certainly developed among the western sioux, with much of the work being done on the Pine Ridge and Rosebud reservations. For some inexplicable reason, this style spread from sioux to Fort Belknap, where it was popular for a short time, and then went out of fashion, like sioux. Interestingly, two photographs of men wearing moccasins with beaded soles (PHOTO No. 5 and 6) were taken on the same day, July 4, 1905. One pair was made at Fort Belknap and the other at Kyle, Pine Ridge Reservation.
Of the nine pairs of moccasins presented in this article, seven are western, or teton sioux. One pair belongs to the Orientals, or santee sioux. And another one from the Fort Belknap, Montana reservation. There are no collectible histories for any of these moccasins except for the pair in PHOTO #2, far right, which was acquired by the artist Joseph Scheurele in the Pine Ridge reservation around 1905.
Five pairs of western sioux moccasins are very typical of them. They are all made of cowhide (livestock) and cut to the standard two-piece pattern for the plains, common for hard-soled moccasins. The tongues are sewn on in all cases. Every pair of moccasins with beaded or needle-embroidered soles that I have examined have soft leather soles. However, due to earlier inaccurate descriptions of this type of moccasin, the reader may be led to believe that the soles were made from rawhide. Four pairs of moccasins have decorated tongues, standard for moccasins of this type. Embroidered with lazy stitch, tendons. Most of the rows (stripes) of beads are of normal width, but in some places there are rows (stripes) of beads wider, used to fill the free space. The moccasins in PHOTO No. 3 are somewhat unusual, with a short fringe laced to the front. This pair of moccasins has an unusually wide row of green beads surrounding the moccasin, which is sewn in the middle with the so-called crow stitch. Faceted brass beads were used on one pair of moccasins (PHOTO #2, right). Faceted metal beads, brass and iron (?), came into use around 1890 and were popular with the sioux. It is found on a variety of items and can help determine their age. It is interesting to note the tendency of the sioux during this period to increase the number of horizontal rows (bands) of beads around the perimeter of the moccasins. This reduces the embroidery space on the front of the moccasin and increases the height of the border. When a triangular pattern is used on moccasin borders, it often gives them an unmistakably Cheyenne look (PHOTO #7). If the identification is based only on this feature, then it may be erroneous.
Two samples of needle-embroidered moccasins with decorated soles are presented in this article. Both pairs belong to the western sioux and are cut according to the standard pattern for the plains from two pieces of leather. They are made of cowhide, tendons are used. On one pair (PHOTO No. 9), the top of the moccasins is decorated with beads and needles, the soles are decorated with beads. Decorated buckskin tongues. An interesting variation of the US flag on the front in yellow and blue (cyan) colors (PHOTO No. 10). Flag poles extend from the horns of an ornament depicting a horned headdress. On the top of the moccasins there is a “fringe” wrapped with needles. The use of patriotic symbols in beadwork and needlework was popular with the sioux at the time and appears on a large number of items they made. (“The American Indian and the American Flag” Flint, Michigan, 1975) The soles of one pair of moccasins are decorated with porcupine quills, and this is unusual (PHOTO #8). Stripes embroidered with yellow, red and magenta (violet) needles are on the front and on the soles. Along the perimeter of the soles there is a border of turquoise-blue beads. A short extension is added to the tops of the moccasins, a narrow ribbon of black fabric is sewn into the seam.
A pair of moccasins, identified as oriental sioux, is the most unusual (PHOTO #1). They were made around 1890 from deerskin. Made from two pieces. In this pattern, the tongue is part of the top, a third piece of leather is added (sewn) to the top of the moccasins. The main beading technique on the top of the moccasins is applique, both tendons and threads (cotton) are used. Ornament - stylized flower. On the soles there is a geometric ornament, lazy stitch embroidery with sinews. The tribal affiliation of these moccasins is in doubt. It is believed that they were made by a fugitive (refugee) santee, who settled in one of the sioux reservations in South Dakota. These moccasins are cut and embellished in a style that shows mixed influences.
Many Santee were displaced by the Minnesota Rebellion in 1862. Some fled to Canada, others west to the Dakotas and Montana. The impressions of their wanderings were reflected in the development of a later interesting and distinctive decorative style. Ornaments were usually stylized or abstract florals in both beads and needles. Glass fine-cut beads were often used.
This article presents not only sioux moccasins. In PHOTO No. 4, gross ventre or assiniboin moccasins from the Fort Belknap reservation. Made around 1890 from deerskin, two-piece pattern with sewn on tongues. The embroidery technique is mainly applique, the border is embroidered with a lazy stitch. Geometric ornament. Both tendons and threads (cotton) are used.

The moccasin photographs used in this article are courtesy of Joan Heim, except for PHOTO #4.

(Translated by Filin, 2010)

1) Moccasins. Eastern Sioux (?). Around 1890 Chandler-Pohrt Collection. Glass fine-cut beads and metal beads (brass and iron) are used in a stylized floral pattern on the top of the moccasins and in a geometric pattern on the soles. (See also cover).

2) Three pairs of moccasins: adults' moccasins on the left and right, children's in the center. Western sioux, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt Collection. Acquired by artist Joseph Scheuerle at Pine Ridge Reservation, South Dakota, circa 1905.

3) Moccasins, western sioux, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt collection. The fringe is added to the front of the moccasins, which is unusual.

4) Gross ventre - assiniboin, Fort Belknap Reservation, Montana, circa 1890 Chandler-Pohrt Institute, Lessard Collection, Mission, South Dakota. Noticeable damage to the beadwork on the sole.

5) Celebration on July 4th, 1905(06?) Reservation Fort Belknap, Montana. Gross ventre and assiniboin. The man in the center is wearing moccasins with decorated soles. Photograph by Sumner(a) W. Matteson, the negative of this photograph is the property of the Milwaukee Public Museum.

6) July 4th, 1905(06?) celebration at Kyle, Pine Ridge Reservation, South Dakota. Western sioux. Moccasins with decorated soles are visible in the lower left corner of the photo. Photo by Fannie Hoyt, Chandler-Pohrt collection.

7) Moccasins. Western sioux, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt Collection. Four rows (stripes) of beads on the moccasin border.

8) Moccasins. Western sioux, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt Collection. Both the soles and the top of the moccasins are decorated with stripes embroidered with porcupine quills.

9) Moccasins. Western sioux, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt Collection. The fronts of these moccasins are decorated with needles, and the soles are decorated with beads. An enlarged image of embroidery with needles on PHOTO No. 10, and embroidery with beads on PHOTO No. 11.

Since time immemorial, man has taken care of what to put on his feet. Rigid grass, a scattering of stones, just hard ground or cold, all this required something that could additionally protect the limb and keep warm. Leather shoes like Indian moccasins can be attributed to one of the most archaic forms of human footwear and, at the same time, one of the most comfortable. In fact, these are two pieces of leather sewn together and tied at the top with a cord.

Among the North American Indians, almost every tribe had its own "technologies" for making moccasins. But with a variety of designs, these shoes were united by one thing - it was made from very soft, well-dressed suede. It was the characteristic "material" that distinguished Indian shoes. Depending on the purpose, the soles could be either hard or soft. Also, moccasins could be high or low, very thin or insulated with fur for winter. Of course, the materials used were exclusively natural, and beads, porcupine quills, etc. were used as "accessories". exotic

During the Wild West, Indian moccasins became very popular not only among the indigenous population of America, but also among whites. Trappers, hunters, farmers, and people of many, many occupations enjoyed wearing Indian moccasins, which were sold in numerous American trading posts along with other Indian goods such as game, fish, and furs.

Over time, classic moccasins have changed significantly depending on the requirements of the time, and sometimes simply because of fashion. However, at the heart of a fairly large number of modern shoes is precisely this practical Indian shoe. At first, these were only utilitarian hunting boots (the so-called hunter boots, with a "moccasin nose", produced to this day by many modern shoe manufacturers from traditional utilitarian American offices like to various high fashion houses outside the USA).

Boat boat shoes, civilian "holiday" loafers, and even some rugged, reliable work boots like the Red Wing or the Torogood, though very different from each other, also refer us to the idea of ​​Indian moccasins in their fundamental principle.

Nowadays, when in search of "real things" and "the same quality" manufacturers with enviable constancy turn to the "historical heritage" so often that sometimes the names of firms are already beginning to ripple in the eyes. Everyone talks about real "American traditions" (even if it is a remake company), traditional technologies and time-tested models from the "grandfather's chest". There are now so many such manufacturing companies that the buyer often falls into a stupor and is often guided when choosing the necessary product not by objective criteria, but by beautiful marketing legends, which, to be honest, sometimes have a fair amount of guile in their basis.

However, among such a huge selection there are real pearls and indisputable authorities, which are the standard of quality. These companies themselves make very original (although most often quite expensive) products and do not imitate anyone, on the contrary, smaller manufacturers imitate them, trying to sell their product, which in some way imitates the product produced by the "pillars of the genre". I don’t want to say that such an idea is completely a failure, there are quite good specimens, but we are not talking about them now. I will try to give a fairly general idea of ​​the products of the American company Yuketen and talk about my personal experience of buying products from this company in a foreign online store.

Now it is no secret to anyone that the most zealous admirers of traditional American clothing and vintage collectors of the 40s and 50s are the Japanese. An interested buyer goes to Japanese brands when it comes to traditional American jeans made according to all the canons, replica jackets of American military pilots or sports knitwear based on those times.

It was the Japanese Yuki Matsuda who became the founder of Yuketen. Note that this is an American company. Yuki founded the production back in 1989.

The goal was to make modern casual shoes, but with a reference to traditional American shoes based on Indian moccasins. Primary attention was paid to the meticulous selection of materials and meticulous leather dressing. Yuketen, with their antediluvian equipment and painstaking manual labor, is quite typical of small editions in each collection. However, if the buyer did not have time to buy something this season, with a high degree of probability he will be able to buy the same model (perhaps in a slightly different color scheme), since from collection to collection Yuketen maintain a completely traditional model range that is not subjected to any strong changes from year to year.

In general, it should be noted that Yuketen products are not "historical reconstructions" of old vintage samples, as is often the case today. Their models are absolutely comfortable modern shoes, which are more suitable for traveling through the "urban jungle" than for walking in the forest. In the old Indian samples, only inspiration and a certain similarity of external forms and some details are drawn. The founder himself says that he just makes modern shoes for modern people, he just makes them creatively and with soul.

The real spirit of the old workshop reigns in the production of this company. Shoes are made by real master shoemakers, many operations are performed only by hand.

For example, the edge of a moc toe is only stitched by hand. If desired, of course, this operation can also be "entrusted" to a machine, but here they believe that shoes sewn by human hands "have their own soul" and each pair made by a master shoemaker will be absolutely unique. Moreover, most of all Yuketen products are made by one master, that is, if you, for example, hold a pair of suede moccasins in your hands, then they are made from and to one master, another pair from the same batch may have been made by another master. Often, a slight unevenness of the stitches is visible on the products, but this is by no means a marriage, these are precisely the features of handmade work (without any posturing and advertising hypocrisy).

Nowadays, Yuketen began to produce not only shoes, but also some leather accessories, such as waist belts. The approach to production is still the same: careful selection of materials, traditional classic design and the famous Japanese obsession with the quality of the final product.

My acquaintance with the shoes of this brand took place during the sale in the British store Superdenim.co.uk

The store itself is quite a cozy both online and offline space with a dozen or two typical brands, including Yuketen shoes. The basis of the assortment of the store is quite venerable brands well known to the buyer who is looking for comfort, maximum quality, and, perhaps, the minimum recognition of all this stuff on the street. That is, with the assortment, everything is quite typical. Strong set of Japanese, American and European manufacturers. A person can be safely dressed in this store from head to toe.

Prices... Prices are quite high. But here it's not so much about the store, but about the pricing policy of the brands presented. However, every cloud has a silver lining, during the sales period the store quite generously discounts prices (sales up to 50% for some brands). Plus, from time to time Superdenim holds promotions with free delivery or distribution of promotional codes for additional discounts (usually 10-15% no more). The store deducts VAT automatically, for this you don't need to disturb the support. Delivery at the moment, the store has express DHL (unfortunately, they refused from Fedex for some reason), and quite a budget delivery by Royal Mail, the UK state mail. I used this delivery method, and I recommend that all other buyers use regular mail, it is objectively cheaper and there are no problems like with DHL (DHL does not work with individuals in many regions and has additional restrictions).

The store itself is quite convenient, customer support answers somewhere in a day or two, but always answers in detail and to the point. If you need to take measurements of any thing or consult "the size will fit, it will not fit," here the store advises very well. Tracking is also issued upon personal contact by letter to support. So the store is worthy, I recommend taking note.

I bought the Yuketen Blutcher model. These are laconic moccasins of sand color. I decided to wear them in the summer. In principle, they are quite suitable for wearing on a dry autumn or spring day. However, it is better to choose a darker color in this case (there are many color options available). For example, here is a color that will go very well with jeans.

My parcel was received about two weeks after sending by the store (the order was going to be three days). I think this is normal for regular mail. Everything was packed in a regular Royal Mail plastic bag.

Inside is a small cardboard box with a logo. And a rather simple cloth bag for storing shoes with a beautiful leather tag on which the brand's logo is embossed and it is proudly written that this product was made by "tanners" in the USA.

In general, moccasins make an impression literally as soon as you take them out of the box. The suede is quite thick but amazingly soft. It may seem ridiculous, but the thing is really interesting to touch, examine and absolutely do not want to let go of. That is, if we compare these moccasins with, for example, some popular high-quality mass brand (let it be topsiders from Sperry), then we will see that there is thinner and somewhat rougher leather. At the same time, in no case can I say that Sperry is made poorly or from low-quality material. You can just see the difference in the approach to production. In one case, this is production in huge runs with possible savings while maintaining quality to an acceptable level, on the other hand, these are small runs and manual production. By the way, the "hands" are really noticeable, just look closely at the moccasins.

The sole is stitched at the bottom, in much the same way as topsiders (this is typical for this type of shoe). It does not add any heaviness to the total weight of the moccasins. By weight, this is quite a comfortable summer shoe.

The color is well suited for summer (Orion Khaki). It will go well with chinos and similar summer clothes. Theoretically, it can be worn with jeans, but there is a nuance here. If they're raw denim jeans, they'll paint the shoes a little anyway. But such soft light suede is just the most "favorite" option for blue cowboy pants. In general, I will briefly say that wiping off blue stains on light suede is not an easy job. So for socks with jeans, it is better to take a different color, for example, such as was given above for autumn. Yuketen tends to have a fairly large selection of colors for each model.

Another nice moment. Usually leather laces on such shoes cause quite a lot of inconvenience. Namely, they tend to unleash at the most inopportune moments. I suffered for a very long time with Sperry, to the point that I just wanted to sew or glue these laces to fix the knot :) In the case of Yuketen, for some reason I did not have such problems. It seems that both here and there, the skin, but the fact remains - these laces did not spontaneously untie during the "test wear".

Their heel is absolutely non-rigid. So you can wear immediately on bare feet and not be afraid to fill the corns at the first sock. And in general, this is the kind of shoes that you definitely don’t have to wear in and “soften” the skin. I repeat, the skin, although quite thick, is VERY soft.

The same leather ergonomic insole is laid inside. When worn barefoot, it is quite comfortable and will add comfort when worn, the feet will say "thank you")). "Yuketen made by leather artisans in USA" is also embossed on the insole.

As for the size, there are several nuances. This shoe is not a "sneaker" size. For example, I wear Adidas and some Nike and New Balance models in size 9.5US. For this shoe, I took 9US and absolutely did not lose. The leg went in tightly, but without undue pressure. In general, shoes of the "moccasin type" should initially sit very tightly on the leg and take its shape a little. In any case, soft suede will stretch a little. As for the completeness, the designation E was indicated on the box, which means after all "wide". In fact, the fullness is rather on the average foot, that is, according to my feelings, it is closer to the fullness of D. But I repeat, these are only personal impressions, everyone's feet are different and the sensations from shoes can be different.