How to sew a bra - a convenient and simple model. Modeling lesson: How to sew a comfortable and beautiful bra. Bralette

We suggest you sew a women's bra with wide straps. Similar bras you can see in the photo. The distinctive design features of our bra is that the straps go into the cup, giving extra comfort with large breasts. Also, the bra has fairly wide straps that are adjustable in length.

To build a bra cup pattern, we will use

Duplicate the outer details of the straps with thermal fabric. Sweep the straps with the upper parts of the cups (fold the doubled and not duplicated with thermal fabric face to face (the upper part of the cup should be located between the details of the shoulder straps, sew. Continue the line, completely sewing the straps along the long sides. Turn the straps out, cleanly sweep.

Combine the lower parts of the cups, duplicated with thermal fabric and not duplicated with thermal fabric, with the upper parts of the cups and shoulder straps, sew in one line.

Tuck the bra belt and stitch along the upper short jumper between the cups, upper and lower sides. Sweep cups with a belt, stitch. Tuck the allowances of the cups to a width of 0.7 cm (if necessary, cut off the excess fabric according to the allowance) and sew on the belt (there should be a drawstring for the bone). Insert a bone into the drawstring, stitch the threading holes with a narrow zig-zag seam.

Turn the bottom of the bra band and stitch. Sew a flat transparent elastic band along the top and bottom of the belt with a zig-zag seam.

Sew ready-made elastic straps with length adjustment to the straps. Attach the straps also to the belt along the back of the bra. Sew a fastener on the back of the belt (hooks and loops on the tape). Your bra is ready! Wear with pleasure!

The ability to sew or knit a bra quickly and simply with your own hands can be useful to every woman. Firstly, it can make life much easier for owners of non-standard sizes and shapes, and secondly, it’s just interesting, beautiful, and the result will always be unique. It can be an item for everyday wear, part of a bathing suit or an attractive piece for a romantic evening.

How to sew a simple do-it-yourself lace cupless bra

This bra without cups is more suitable for girls with small breasts. Of course, wearing such a thing all the time is unlikely to be comfortable, but it looks very original, sexy and it is very easy to sew it with your own hands. By the way, these models have recently been at the height of fashion.

To work on a bra you will need:

Quality lace
Wide smooth elastic band
Elastic thin ribbon for straps
Clasp
Sheet of paper and pencil
Scissors
Sewing needle and thread
Sewing machine

Description of the progress of work:

Let's start our master class on sewing a bra. After taking approximate measurements from the chest, draw a pattern on paper, as shown in the photo. One "cup" should consist of two halves. Be sure to add a little for allowances. Then the cut out patterns can be tried on and corrected.

We apply the patterns to the lace so that the finished edge is on the outside. Fasten with pins. Both halves should be perfectly symmetrical.

Cut out blanks.

We connect the convex edges with needles.

We sew the halves on a sewing machine, as shown in the photo:

Putting an elastic band under the bust, measure the girth. Do not tighten the elastic tightly, otherwise it will press. We put the cups together and cut out another piece of lace along the length of the cups so that there is a finished edge on the bottom.

We apply the lace in the middle with an elastic band, attach with a pin. In the same place we attach the cups. Sew with a zigzag stitch.

Fasteners are sewn to the edges of the elastic band.

Thin ribbons are measured to size and sewn to the base.

Bra is ready!

How to build a basic pattern for a bra?

For a more complex bra with cups and underwire, you need to build a special pattern. Let's take a look at its implementation step by step.

According to Figure 1, you need to outline the contours of the pattern for the back of the basic pattern of the bodice, the side line, the lower section of the armhole and the tuck at the waist. The chest line needs to be circled and extended to the right to the end of the sheet, so you can correctly position the front pattern.

Along the line of the chest from the middle of the back, you need to set aside half the girth of the chest. Through this point, you need to draw a vertical line - this is the middle line of the front of the bodice (already without an increase in freedom of fitting, since the bra should fit snugly).

Aligning the middle of the front of the base pattern with the resulting middle line, you need to make sure that the chest line is located on a horizontal line drawn from the middle of the back, and that the middle lines of the back and front are parallel. The side lines are superimposed on each other by the amount of the increase in freedom of fit.

We trace the contours of the pattern in front, the side line, the lines of the darts of the top and waist.

We draw the side line of the bra in the middle of the area formed during the imposition. This arrangement is suitable for bodices made of thin fabrics and bikini tops. For greater fit and support of the glands, a displaced lateral line is used (see below).

The solution of the upper tuck from the side of the armhole is increased by 2 times. We increase the length of the darts at the waist and back by 2.5 cm. We double the openings of the darts at the waist on the back and front.

For cup sizes C and larger, an even larger magnification will be required. In addition, we increase the solution of the upper tuck by half of the original (Figure 3).

To build the upper and lower lines, use the table by drawing the contours through the obtained points:

The location of the straps is shown in Figure 2.

The displaced lateral line is constructed as follows: First, along the chest line, you need to measure the distance from the center point to the middle of the front, put the resulting value to the left along the same line to the left of the center. Through the point that we received, we draw a side line shifted forward. We tilt it 1 cm to the middle of the front along the bottom line of the bodice to get a greater effect.

According to Figure 4, we copy the original outline of the original pattern in one piece. We outline the line of the chest, the side and offset side lines, the upper and lower front tucks. When copying the contour of the back, we combine the sides of the tuck at the waist on the back.

The angle that is formed after combining the sides of the tuck at the waist on the back, if desired, can be straightened. Be sure to adjust the bottom line of the bra. It is also necessary to slightly bend the section of the upper line in the armpit (by 5 mm).

After the adjustment, we measure the length of the upper and lower lines from the side, restore the original length at the middle back line, shifting the back.

We decorate with curved lines the sections of the parts of the cup at the central point (Figure 5).

Cups with horizontal and diagonal seams can visually increase the height of the chest. It is necessary to draw a new lower line of the upper part of the cup, taking into account the offset at the center and the corresponding line of the lower part. The most curved top line will be longer than the top line of the calyx. We make a cut and expand the details of the upper part by an amount that equalizes the lengths of the corresponding lines.

This pattern does not take into account the extensibility and elasticity of the material, therefore, for a perfect fit, it is recommended to first sew a trial model, and then make changes to the patterns.

Pattern of a bra with a wide belt.

This pattern is useful for sewing a bra with a wide belt that is comfortable and does not twist. In addition, such a cut with wide side parts is optimal for large bust sizes, as it best supports the bust.

First you need to take measurements - the semicircle of the chest, the semicircle under the chest and the semicircle of the waist. In this example, we conditionally took 48, 40 and 38 cm, respectively.

The pattern looks like this:

We draw a rectangle ABDH, then draw auxiliary lines. The horizontal lines AB and DG are 48 cm, this is a measure of the semicircle of the chest. The vertical lines AG and BD are equal to 24 cm, this is 1/2 of the semicircle of the chest - 48: 2 = 24 cm.

Let's build a large tuck bra. From point B down and to the left, set aside 12 cm and put points C and C1, these are 1/4 measurements of the semicircle of the chest - 48: 4 \u003d 12 cm. Draw a horizontal line 12cm from point B to the left and mark point B2. Connect points B2 and B1. Let's draw the middle of the front, from point B down we set aside 4cm and get point P. From D to the left we set aside 6cm and get point P1. Let's connect the points P and P1. Let's build a bra tuck. Set aside 2 cm from point B2 to the left and denote B3. From B3 we lower the perpendicular to the intersection with the DG line, the intersection point B4. From point B3 we set aside 2 cm down and mark point B5. Set aside 1 cm from B4 to the right and left, connect the resulting points with point B5. We draw the middle of the back, set aside 8 cm from point G upward and denote point L. Let's draw the distance from the large tuck to the bra strap. From the point B1 to the left we set aside 9 cm and denote L1, from it we set aside 1.5 cm down and denote L2. Connect points B1 and L2 with a line.

The top line of a bra on a pattern. We will connect the points L and L2 with a dotted line, and divide it in half, from the division point down at an angle of 90 degrees to the line LL2, set aside 6 cm and designate the point L3. Draw the top line through L, L3 and L2.

Shoulder strap width 2cm. Let's draw the place of its sewing. From the point L2 to the right and down, set aside 1 cm. From the marked points, we draw the lines of the straps upwards. From the point L to the right we set aside 6 cm and denote L4, from it to the right we set aside 2 cm. From L4 and 2 up we will draw the lines of the straps.

Pattern of a belt to a bra. Let's draw a rectangle ABCD. The horizontal lines AB and GV are equal to 40 cm, this is a measure of the semicircle of the belt under the chest. The vertical lines AG and BV are 11cm. Now from point B to the left we set aside 2 cm and designate point P. From point B through point P we draw a line, extending it down by 2 cm and designate point P1. Let's connect points P1 and G. Let's draw the upper line of the belt, from point A we will extend the vertical line up by 1 cm and designate point P2. Let's connect points P2 and B.

How to crochet bra cups?

You will need Anna yarn (530m \ 100g), hooks No. 1.5 and 1.15, clasp, bones, straps and removable cups.

First, we knit the lower part of the cup, applying it to the finished bra.

So that the bones do not slip, we sheathe them with a cloth

For bones, you need to tie 2 parts and connect them together

We knit the side parts of the bra belt, applying to the finished one. We knit the first row with an elastic band, then without it.

We cut the cups to the desired shape and sew.

We knit and sew flowers. Crocheted bra is ready!

For work you will need:

yarn (40% wool, 25% silk, 25% polyamide, 10% mohair, 300 m/100 g): about 300 g brown.
Straight knitting needles No. 2.5.
Circular knitting needles No. 2.5, 40 cm long.
Toe knitting needles No. 2.5.
Hook number 2.5.
set of bones, decorative clasp

Knitting density: 30 p. and 46 p. persons. smooth, knitting needles No. 2.5 \u003d 10 x 10 cm.

Pearl pattern: knit alternately 1 person., 1 out. and shift the item in each p.

Increases: at the beginning of the river. after chrome. and at the end of the river before chrome. in faces. R. knit 1 person. cross p., in out. R. - 1 out. cross n. from the broach.

Decorative reductions: Right edge: chrome., 2 p. Knit together faces. with an inclination to the left (= 1 p. remove, like faces., next p. knit faces. and stretch the removed p. through it). Left edge: 2 p. knit together persons., chrome.

Double p.: so that there are no holes, after turning at the beginning of the river. place the thread in front of work, insert the knitting needle on the right into the 1st p., remove the p. and thread together. Then pull the thread back strongly. Because of this, the stitch on the needle tightens and becomes double. Following. R. knit both parts of the double p. together according to the pattern of faces. or out.

The pattern looks like this:

Description of work on a bra.
We knit the left cup.

First, knit across the lower part from the middle to the side, arrow on the pattern = direction of knitting: cast on 3 sts with knitting needles No. 2.5 and knit faces. satin stitch. To expand, add on both sides in each 2nd p. from the beginning of 19x 1 p. = 41 p. After 9 cm = 42 p. from the inlaid edge for the form, perform 1 decorative decrease from the left edge and in each 2nd p. 6 more 1 decor. decrease = 34 p. Then continue decorating, decrease on both sides 13x in each 2nd p. = 8 p., after that, only from the right edge, perform in each 2nd p. 6 more 1 decor. reduction. Following. out. R. = after 20 cm = 93 p. from the beginning, knit the remaining 2 sts together out.

Starting with the remaining sts, dial for the upper part with circular needles from the left side of the lower part 70 sts and knit 1 out. R. = 1st p. out. n. Then continue persons. satin stitch and at the same time perform reductions for armholes; *following persons. R. execute after the first chrome. item 1 decor. reduction, next. out. R. knit at the end before chrome. Purl 2 together, repeat 3 more from *, then repeat it 1 more in the next. persons. R. = 61 p. after 11 p. Then knit rounding with shortened p. track. way: * at the beginning of the next. persons. R. complete 1 decor. decrease, knit p. to the last 5 sts, turn, 1 double st and knit in the opposite direction, repeat. 5 more from * = 25 p. after 23 p. Following. persons. R. after chrome. complete 1 decor. decrease, then knit all sts again. In the next. out. R. = after 5.5 cm = 25 p. close the remaining 54 p.

With circular knitting needles, dial 76 sts from the right edge of the lower cup for the drawstring, and after each typed st, perform 1 yarn over. 1st p. = out. R.; * nakid knit faces., stretching the thread forward, next. p. remove as out., draw the thread back, constantly repeat. from *, rotate. 2nd p .: * 1 person., Draw the thread forward. 1 p. remove as out., thread back, repeat from *. Knit 3 more p. as the 2nd p.: 2 paths are formed, both from the faces. satin stitch on the outside. 6th p. = persons. R.: 47x knit 2 p. together out. and close the p., then 29x 2 p. together faces. and postpone.

We knit the right cup.

Knit symmetrically, but shortened p. upper part to perform in out. R. and in the 6th p. drawstrings first knit 29x 2 p. together faces. and set aside, then 47x 2 p. together out. and cast off. Left Back: Place 29 left cup sts set aside on needle and knit starting with purl 1. r., persons. satin stitch. After 1 cm - 5 p. from the beginning of the strap to follow. persons. R. 1 decor on both sides. decrease and in every 6th p. 2 x 1 decor. decrease = 23 p.

At the height of the strap 10.5 cm = 47 p. perform decreases from the left working edge of the next. way: * at the end of persons. R. before chrome. knit 2 p. together persons., at the beginning of out. R. after chrome. - 2 p. together out., repeat. 5 more from *, then next. persons. R. do 1 more decor. decrease = 10 p. after 61 p. At the height of the strap 15 cm = 70 rubles. knit 10 sts for another 2.5 cm in garter stitch, then cast off all sts of faces.

Rear right side.

Knit on the deferred 29 p. of the right cup symmetrically.

Middle front.

Knit from top to bottom: cast on 6 sts with knitting needles No. 2.5 and knit faces. satin stitch. After 1 cm = 4 p. from the beginning, add to expand on both sides 1x 1 p. and in each 4th p. 2x 1 p., then in each 2nd p. 6x 1 p. = 24 p. After 5.5 cm = 26 p. from the inlaid edge close p.

We knit bra straps.

For each strap, cast on 2 toe needles 6 sts, knit faces. p., * do not turn the work, but move the p. to the other end of the knitting needle, pull the thread at work to the beginning, pull it tightly and knit faces again. p., repeat from * until the lace is 74 cm long. Close p.

We collect a bra.

Crochet the upper and lower edges of the back straps + the upper edges of the cups without the ends of the garter stitch 1 p. step by step. Divide the remaining lace in half. Baste one half from the middle of the front to the beginning of the cutout to the back strap, placing it behind the border of the crustacean step, and sew it with an elastic seam. Sew the insert according to the scheme with oblique edges to the cups.

Fold the straps in half and sew with the whole side in the middle to each outer upper half, see X on the pattern. Sew the ends of the straps to the beginning of the back neckline (near the end of the laces) to the back strap from the inside. Pass the details of the fastener through the edges of the garter stitch and, after trying on, sew the edges of the straps to the wrong side. Pass the bones through both drawstrings.

The work is done!

Video on the topic of the article

Do-it-yourself lace lingerie is a luxury that not every layman can afford. Such knitted works of art are not cheap. And if we talk about underwear, tailor-made, there are fabulous sums.

However, this does not mean that you can please yourself with such charm only by laying out a large amount. The minimum will help make the dream a reality. All you need is a desire, a little patience and just a little bit of skill.

Do-it-yourself underwear: an inaccessible luxury or a smart PR move

Handmade underwear can never be compared with factory-made products. Such a textile product fits perfectly on the figure, emphasizes the advantages and successfully hides the flaws. Seventy percent of the beautiful half of humanity have difficulty choosing this delicate wardrobe item.

But there is nothing surprising in this, we are all unique and beautiful in our own way, so only a custom-made product can fit perfectly on the figure. The smart ones played on this masters telling that such a creation is beyond the power to make on their own. We are ready to argue with it.

bra bra- a feminine and very necessary element of every lady's wardrobe. Lace bra successfully emphasizes the shape, supports the chest and has an incredibly seductive look.

It allows its owner to feel like an ancient Greek goddess, in an elegant dress created from sea foam. At least for the sake of these sensations must be in every woman's wardrobe. And we will help you in this acquisition. Well, are you ready to challenge the masters and sew your first masterpiece with your own hands?

What is the advantage of lace underwear

If you have not had time to buy this lace masterpiece, we suggest trying to create a set with your own hands Who knows, maybe your first experiment will be the start for a future career as a lingerie designer. But first, let's figure out what advantages similar product before others.

To create your kit, you can choose the best. And you will be 100% sure of the quality of the material.
You can let your imagination run wild and create something unique and inimitable. Or make an old dream come true and sew a copy of a fashion brand for a reasonable price.
Sewing underwear with your own hands makes it possible to take into account all the features of the figure, which means that such a set will fit you perfectly.

Well, are you sure? A do-it-yourself lingerie set is not only a cost savings, but also an opportunity to unleash your creative potential.

Among other things, luxurious lace underwear transforms a woman. Wearing such a handmade set, a woman will always feel sensual and sexy.

Let's start master class?

We sew a bra-bra with our own hands

So, in order to sew a lace bra-bra, you need to acquire some materials. First of all, find lace And regulator for crochet straps.

Then find on the Internet the underwear that suits you, the model you like. Print your chosen bra. That's it, let's move on to further preparations. Of the tools you will need:

So let's get started:

Summing up

We have considered the simplest lace bra. If you like it, feel free to experiment further with more complicated models. If you don't succeed the first time, don't be discouraged! As mentioned earlier: it takes quite a bit of skill and you will succeed!

This lace bra will definitely become yours. beloved, because it is made by hand, based on your taste preferences. Such lingerie can be worn with almost any outfit, including for a romantic date.

Among other things, such a lace bra will be great for a friend's holiday. The main thing is to take into account all her preferences and then your gift will really be remembered for a long time.

A bra is a piece of underwear in a woman's wardrobe, designed to support and protect the chest, covering it from the eyes. It should be clearly distinguished that not every bra is a bodice. The bodice can also be part of a military uniform, and the upper part of the dress with a back. Most often, the underwear is meant by the bodice. To sew a lace bodice quickly and easily with your own hands, just follow a few instructions.

How to sew a lace bodice with your own hands in a step by step tutorial

In order to sew such a thin part of the wardrobe, you will need:

silk or lace;
piece of elastic lace;
scissors;
sewing needles;
sewing machine or needle and thread;
fasteners or hooks (can be used from an old bra).

This model resembles, rather, the top of a swimsuit. It is soft, pitted and cupless. Comfortable to wear and pleasant to the body, this model of underwear is suitable for owners of small breasts.

As a sample, you can use the top from an old swimsuit. You can open the bodice and see how the seams look, and then transfer the pattern to the fabric. You can - attach paper and circle the contours, which are used as the basis for building a pattern.

To begin with, two small triangles are cut out of the fabric of such a size that they cover the nipple and chest around. The size of the triangle is chosen independently; lace in a contrasting color is also used instead of fabric.

From a ribbon of elastic lace (it should not be too tight and look like a bandage), two strips are cut, one for each cup. The corners are cut at an angle of approximately 30 degrees and sewn with a zigzag seam.

A ribbon is cut off, the length of which is equal to the girth under the bust.

The resulting triangles, trimmed with lace, are placed on a piece of tape so that the middle of the triangles falls on the nipple. At this stage, you can’t rush, you need to carefully measure and sweep away the parts.

When the measurements are taken, the tape, hooks - fasteners, straps for the bodice are sewn together.

If desired, you can make straps with a cross on the neck, for this their length should be much longer.

Construction of a pattern.

A well-built pattern is a guarantee that the bodice will sit flawlessly. In order to correctly draw a pattern, it is necessary to take measurements correctly.

To determine the size of the cups that will fit to the chest, two dimensional signs are required. The first, and most important, is the underbust. This dimensional sign is removed directly under the base of the chest. It is this size that is the universal European standard, which is taken into account when designing and labeling underwear.

The second dimensional feature, no less important, is the chest girth. To take this size, the centimeter passes horizontally around the body along the most protruding points of the chest. It is worth noting that the centimeter should not sag or be too tight. In addition, its parallelism to the floor is very important.

It is the difference between these two sizes that determines the size of the bra cup:

12 cm - 14 cm = size A;
14cm - 16cm = size B;
16cm - 18cm = size C;
18 cm - 20 cm = size D.

Lace bra.

A lace bra is one of the most sought-after and intimate items in a woman's wardrobe. A bra is a translucent light lace that does not support the chest and does not give it a shape, but only hides the skin.

To sew a classic bra, you need to use a standard pattern, small changes in the shape of which will help to upset the cup on the chest of any shape.

It is very convenient to use existing linen to build a pattern. To do this, a sheet of soft paper is applied to a bra that fits well and is comfortable in all respects and is drawn around the seams. It is very important to follow the directions of the seams, then the linen will be comfortable in shape. When the parts of the bodice are ready and drawn, it is necessary to decide how to sew them together. There are several options:

transfer the pattern to the fabric, making 5 mm allowances at the seams in such a way that the tucks converge in the center, forming a triangle with the apex at the nipple;
cut separately the parts of the bra, using the same allowance, and then sew them together from the wrong side.

When the sewing method is selected, you can start sewing on the straps and elastic band under the bust. If desired, the sconce is complemented by decorative elements - ribbons, bows, rings to adjust the length of the straps.

Each seamstress can choose the finishing method independently, inspired by modern fashion shows.

Video on the topic of the article

It is traditionally believed that sewing a bra with your own hands is not much easier than making a corset or even sewing a men's jacket! Perhaps there are fewer details in it and the design as a whole is less complicated, but the main problem is how to properly fit the bra so that it does not cause discomfort during wearing.

This lace bra will give you only positive emotions, so do not deny yourself the pleasure of sewing underwear that will be unique and individual.

? Read our tutorial!

Step 1

Using sharp sewing scissors (), we cut out from lace: 2 details of the front of the belt; 2 details of the back of the belt; 2 side parts of the cup; 2 cup centerpieces.

From lining fabric: 2 side details of a cup; 2 central details of the cup

Non-stretch mesh: 1 single piece to reinforce the center of the waistband (between the cups).
Allowances: depend on the width of the elastic band and braid. Because My elastic and braid are 1 cm wide, then the allowances along the upper cut of the belt and the side cut of the side part of the cup are 1 cm. On the side and central cuts of the belt - 0.5 cm. On the belt on the armholes for cups - 1 cm. On all details cups - 1 cm. On the upper central section of the front of the belt - 0.5 cm. On the details of the mesh - 0.5 cm on the armholes for cups, on the upper and lower sections without allowances. On the cut under the fastener, I do not give allowances. And because there is an openwork edge along the bottom of the belt and the top of the cup, then allowances are not provided. Accordingly, no allowances are given on the lining of the cups either.

Step 2

We grind the side and central sections of the belt, iron the allowances in different directions. On the center of the front we impose a part from the grid, we tack. We bend the upper allowance on the lace part of the belt to the wrong side, we tack.

Step 3

We put the side and central lace details of the cup on top of each other with the front sides.

On the central part of the cup we impose the central part of the cup from the lining.

Step 4

From above we impose the side part of the cup from the lining, we chop off (pins for work are possible), we sew. Do the same for the second cup.

We turn it inside out and get a seam hidden inside the cup.

Step 5

On the belt from the wrong side we put an elastic band on the lower openwork edge.

We stretch the elastic so that the fabric lies flat, without wrinkles. We attach the stretched elastic band in a zigzag pattern on both sides.

P.S. The length of the elastic band of medium elasticity should be about 10% shorter than the seam on the product. That is, if my belt is 72 cm long, then the elastic is 7.2 cm shorter.

Step 6

We put a narrow elastic band on the upper cut of the cup over the lining and attach it in a zigzag. By trial and error, I came to the conclusion that the elastic band on the upper edge of the cup should not be pulled. Under the pressure of the foot, in the process of stitching, it itself stretches a little. Do the same for the second cup.

On the side cut of the cup, cut off the allowance on the lining by 0.5 cm.

We get a belt with an elastic band sewn along the bottom edge and cups reinforced with a narrow elastic band along the upper edge.

Step 7

We attach the cups to the belt. We iron the allowances on the belt. An ironing pad is possible.

Step 8

We put a ring on the end of the gum, bend the gum and put it on the side cut of the cup on the front side so that the ring protrudes above the upper openwork edge of the cup, and the end of the gum is hidden between the gum and the fabric (I hope the description is clear). We stretch the elastic and sew in a zigzag along the inner edge.

Step 9

We bend the elastic and the fabric inside out and attach along the outer edge of the elastic.

Step 10

From the wrong side, we sew drawstrings for bones on the cup allowances and side seams. (For bones in the side seams, I used ordinary plastic regilin, which is sold by the meter, cut to the desired size and melted at the ends over the fire.) We insert the bones, we sew the drawstrings.

Step 11

Drawstrings for bones in cups are sewn in the center with a single seam.

Step 12

Sew on the clasp. Because with fasteners the same problem as with tunnel tape, I used hook and loop tape in the right color. To avoid excess thickness, we cut the elastic band to the width of the fastener, fold the lace on the wrong side, put the fastener on top, attach from the inner edge. From the outer edge, where the hooks are, sew by hand.

- beautiful lingerie along with the site!

Step 13

We place the straps approximately at a distance of 14 cm from each other (everything is individual here, I usually give such a distance). We step back from the clasp 7 cm, put the elastic in such a way that the lower end lies on the lower elastic band of the belt, we attach it. We put a ring on the upper end, bend the elastic with a cut inward, attach it. We pass a strap into the ring near the cup, we chop it off. At the other end of the straps, we thread the regulator, we thread the strap into the ring on the back, we thread the strap through the regulator, we cut it off.

We sew the straps.