Modeling a pattern for cutting a women's coat. We sew a simple, but beautiful and comfortable coat. detailed master class!!! Modeling a woman's coat
A modern woman's wardrobe should have coats designed for spring, autumn and winter, but in order to sew a coat that will suit you, and at the same time be stylish and fashionable, you need to follow fashion. Our pattern will help needlewomen to sew the item themselves and look stylish and fashionable in it.
Fashion trends of the season
In modern climatic conditions, in which the weather in autumn and winter is very changeable: either severe frosts or an unexpected thaw, you simply cannot live without an autumn and winter coat. Of course, it will not warm you at very low temperatures, but it will be indispensable during mild frosts and thaws. Modern designers offer a variety of models. There are plenty to choose from, but making the right choice can sometimes be very difficult. So, which coat will be fashionable in the fall-winter 2019 season?
For the upcoming fashion season, designers offer various coat models. With such a variety, everyone can choose the perfect coat model that suits them.
The leading position in the coming season will be occupied by the wide coat model; this model is distinguished by a strict elongated lapel, wide shoulder line and knee length. Models of double-breasted coats and swing coats without buttons will be no less relevant, but they may have a wrap around the waist.
As for decorations, classic sleeves, three-quarter sleeves, large buttons, a stand-up or turn-down collar, classic lapels, fur trim on the collar or sleeves will be relevant.
The color scheme will be classic. Gray, white, black, red, brown colors will be relevant. The main thing is that the coat is decorated with bright accessories, for example, gold buttons.
In terms of the choice of materials, leather is the leader, and models made of cashmere, wool, and tweed will also be popular.
Coat pattern according to fashion trends 2019
If needlewomen use the fashionable coat patterns we offer, they can easily sew an autumn or winter coat.
Fashion trends in choosing patterns for sewing an autumn coat
Coat patterns for autumn will allow needlewomen to sew a fashionable item. Next fall, coat models in both rich and muted colors or decorated with floral prints and voluminous appliqués will be popular. As for the cut, models with a straight silhouette - a trapeze coat - will be fashionable. Next autumn will give fashionistas a choice in the selection of accessories. These can be brooches, scarves, clutches.
For several days I went to the site and admired it, looking at it carefully. And suddenly it dawned on me! Well, how simple it is! One-piece sleeves, no darts, the silhouette is not fitted, the collar is kind of simple, and sewing such a coat is like two fingers, as they say :) And I got the idea to try to sew something similar.
True, I wanted the collar a little smaller, and I found several more options for a similar coat with a smaller collar. That’s when I definitely decided to sew my own coat. 
But first I needed to practice. And my younger sister Yana, as always, became the “guinea pig”.
And so, dear readers, I invite you to look at the process of creating the first coat I sewed. I will try to explain in detail the progress of the work in a more accessible language, since in my previous publications many considered the sewing process to be very difficult due to sewing terminology. Therefore, I ask professional seamstresses not to judge my style of presentation strictly. 
Fabric selection
Naturally, any sewing work begins with the choice of fabric. What fabric is best for a coat? Yes, any coat fabric is drape, tweed, cashmere, boucle, etc. But for just such a coat, the best fabric will be double-sided. With such fabric you will not need to sew on the lining, and this will make the work process easier.
In our small town, of the coat fabrics offered, I didn’t like anything. And I opted for textured knitwear with added wool. The fabric is very thick and has a nice color. 
For knitted fabric we will need knitted dublerin and knitted lining fabric; the latter was not available in our stores, and I had to buy regular one.
And so, for everything we need: 2.5 m canvas fabric, 2 m lining, 1 m dublerin, matching and contrasting threads, and tools: needle, pins, ruler, scissors, chalk or pencil, and a sewing machine. 
Cutting fabric
Since a coat is a fairly large item and a pattern will require a lot of paper, I suggest making all the patterns directly from the fabric.
Back
To build the back, we need only two measurements - the volume of the hips (90cm) and the desired length of the future coat (105cm), I wanted a length just below the knees.
First, fold the fabric in half, right side inward. 
Stepping back a little from the top, from the edge of the fold to the right we will set aside 1/4 of the volume of the hips + 2.5 cm for a loose fit: 90/4 + 2.5 = 25 cm. And down the edge of the fold we will put the length of the product + 5cm for hemming the bottom of the coat: 105 + 5 = 110cm. And draw a rectangle with sides 25 and 110 cm. From the upper right corner of the rectangle, set aside 10cm to the right, and 30cm downwards. And again we will complete the rectangle with sides 10 and 30 cm. This rectangle is our future one-piece sleeve, so its width and length can be changed if you want a narrower sleeve. 
Then we draw a neckline, from which we draw a lowered shoulder at a slight angle. Use a smooth line to connect the sleeve to the side line. And the back is ready! 
Now we cut out the back, adding 1 cm to the allowance. 
Front and lapel
Now we need the neck measurement that we built on the back, for me it turned out to be 9cm. Fold the fabric in half again, right side inward. We will retreat approximately 20-30 cm from the top of the fabric, place our back on the fabric and outline it. Add 15cm to the front cut. We need these 15cm so that the coat can be wrapped around. And draw a cutting line to the very end of the fabric (blue color in the picture) 
Let's move on to building the collar and lapel. But first, let's figure out what a lapel is? And this is just a lapel of the fabric of the garment, most often this lapel is on the chest.
1) And so, let’s extend the shoulder section towards the neckline by 2cm - this will be the height of the collar stand. And let's put a point T at the end of this line.
2) Now on the front cut (blue line) we will put point M. This point can be chosen as you wish, depending on where you want the future coat to be connected along the front cut. I chose a point just above my chest.
3) Then draw a line through our points M and T. This line will be the fold line of the lapel.
4) Let us designate the point of intersection of the neckline and shoulder section with the letter O
5) From point O up we will draw a line parallel to our lapel fold line
6) Let's set aside our neck measurement from point O - 9 cm, and put point C.
7) Now from point O we draw an arc with radius OS (9 cm)
8) And on this arc from point C to the right we will set aside the height of our stand - 2 cm and put point C1
9) Connect points O and C1 with a line with a slight deflection
10) Now let’s build a perpendicular to our line OC1
11) And put the desired collar width on the perpendicular; I wanted a collar 10cm wide
12) We connect our perpendicular (10 cm) and the front cut with a smooth line. Here, of course, you can model and make the lapel wider or longer, it all depends on your desire.
Well, our lapel is ready! 
And the shelf pattern looks like this. 
We cut out the shelf, do not forget about the seam allowances, and we should get two parts. 
Pick-up
We need a trim to process the front cut. You can, of course, make a one-piece edging, adding another 10-20 centimeters to the front cut when cutting the front. But if the width of the fabric does not allow this, then the selection is cut separately. That's exactly what I did.
We fold our fabric again with the right side inward, place a shelf on the fabric and trace the front edge, lapel, collar and a small part of the shoulder edge (although you can do without it, if desired). At the bottom, the width of our hem will be 15cm, and from the fold line of the face, the hem expands, so we will connect the edge of the hem with the shoulder with a smooth line. Our selection is ready! 
We cut with seam allowances, and again we get two parts. 
Sleeves
To construct a sleeve, we need three measurements: the length of the sleeve, which we measure on ourselves (53cm), the length of the armhole, which we can measure at the front or at the back, since they are equal (21cm) and the length of the one-piece sleeve, which we also We can measure at the shelf or back (20cm). The sleeve pattern will also depend on your desire: straight or tapered, with a cuff or a vent. My sister asked for sleeves with rolled cuffs, so I will describe the cutting of just such a sleeve.
Fold the fabric in half, right side inward. From the fold line to the right, we will set aside the length of our armhole - 21 cm. Along the fold line down, we put aside the length of the sleeve minus the length of the full-length sleeve and plus the length of the cuff: 53 - 20 + 14 = 47 cm (cuff length as you wish). At the bottom from the fold line to the right, set aside 16 cm. Thus, we built a tapering sleeve. 
Cut out the sleeves with a 1cm seam allowance. Now let's cut out the cuffs. Again, fold the fabric with the right side inward, place our sleeve on the fabric and trace it along the bottom, and set the height of the cuff to 14 cm and cut it out. And so, we got two sleeves and two cuffs. 
Lining
Fold the lining fabric in four layers, right side inward. 
Place the back on the fabric and outline. 
Cut out the pattern with a 1.5cm seam allowance. We received two parts, one of which we cut along the front edge. As a result, we received three parts. 
Now fold the lining fabric in half, right side inward, and trace around our sleeve. And we cut it out again, adding 1.5 cm to the allowances. This way we got two sleeves for the lining. 
Doublerin
Fold the dublerin in half, with the adhesive surface inward, apply our border, trace and cut out. 
Again, fold the dublerin in half, apply a border, outline it, and along the bottom add a strip the width of our shelf and a height of about 5-10 cm and cut it out. This dublerin is glued to the shelf. And for the back, we cut out a strip of dublerin with a width equal to the width of the back and a height of 5-10cm.
Now we’ll glue it with dublerin, after moistening it (if it’s not non-woven fabric) 
Bottom of the backrest 
Front sections and bottom shelves 
And selections 
Well, the hardest part is over! Now we just have to sew all the details.
And first of all, we will sew the edges and flaps along the cut on the collar. 
We will perform all seams in three stages: 1 - pinning, 2 - hand basting, 3 - machine stitching. Since a coat is a rather complex sewing product, and the fabric being sewn is quite heavy, we therefore need the first two stages for more precise stitching of the parts. And so, having sewn the hems and edges along the cut edges on the collar, we iron the seams. 
Now we connect the edges and shelves along the front sections, matching their middles. That is, we fold the parts with the right sides facing each other so that the seam on the collar of the collar is aligned with the seam of the front, and from the middle we chop and sew by hand. 
Then we trim the corners of the seam allowances and turn them right side out. Let's iron our product properly. You can even overcast the product before ironing so that the fabric turns out completely, and then iron, tear off the basting and iron again. As a result, we got a collar like this: 
merging into shelves, to which edgings are sewn along the front edge. 
And now we will connect the shelves and the back along the shoulder seams and neckline, matching the parts in the middle. We will first sew a collar to the back neckline, which belongs to the shelves, 
And we sew the shoulder seams, which we press. 
Now let's sew the upper collar, which is part of the collar, to the back neck. Again we combine the parts in the middle. 
We will lay the seam directly along the seam that we made when we sewed the lower collar (part of the front) to the back neckline. And iron the seam to the bottom of the product. 
Connecting the lining to the coat
Until now, I had never had to connect a lining with such a complex product, so I turned to the Internet for help. There I found several ways of this process, and chose a more optimal option, which I will describe to you, dear fashion ladies.
To begin, fold the shelves and back of the lining with the right sides facing inward.
and sew on the shoulder seams, which we press. 
Then we will place the back of the lining with the wrong side to the wrong side of the back of the coat so that all sections of the back of the coat are covered with the lining, aligning from the neckline, matching the middle and shoulder seams of the parts. 
Exactly the same with the shelves: we combine the shoulder seams from the neckline; The sections of the coat front should be hidden by the lining. Place the trim on the lining and trace it along the cut. 
Now on the lining we draw a line parallel to this cut, stepping back 2.5 cm towards the front cut, and cut off the excess lining fabric. 
On the wrong side, we combine the cuts of the hem and the lining and sew along the entire length, departing 1 cm from the edge. 
Iron the seam towards the lining. 
We turn the front of the coat over to the front side, trim the excess lining along the edges of the front, leaving 0.5 cm. 
We perform all the same actions with the second shelf. As a result, this is what we got. 
Now we sew the side seams of the coat on the wrong side and iron them. 
We also sew the side seams of the lining, with only one difference: on one side seam of the lining we will leave a small area (20-30cm) unsewn, 
That is, we will leave a cut that will be useful for turning the product inside out. 
Sew the sleeves and cuffs along the elbow sections. We iron the seams. 
Turn the sleeves right side out and the cuffs right side out. We sew the cuffs to the sleeves along the bottom with the right sides facing inward, matching the side seams. 
Now we turn the cuffs inside out and put them inside the sleeves. The edges can be serged and then ironed, the hem removed and pressed again. 
I would like to draw your attention to the fact that I did not cover the sleeves with double tape. I didn’t do this because with dublerin the cuffs turned up would be very thick and heavy.
We begin sewing the lining sleeves and ironing the seams. 
Turn the sleeves and lining sleeves inside out. Sew them right sides together, matching the side seams. 
Having turned the lining inside out, we make a small soft fold near the seam connecting the sleeve and the lining. 
When we turn our sleeve right side out, we can trim off the excess lining, leaving 1.5cm. 
Now we can sew our sleeves to the coat, sewing only the product itself, connecting the side seams. We can do this through the holes in the sleeves of our lining. 
We iron the seams. 
And in order to sew the lining sleeves to the lining itself, we will have to turn the product inside out. In the same way, we sew it together, connecting the side seams, and then press it.
We turn our product inside out and get such a beautiful lining sleeve! 
While our lining is not yet completely sewn to the coat, we can sew on the pockets. But first, we will reveal them. Fold the fabric in half, right side inward, and apply a paper pattern, which we trace, adding 1 cm seam allowance, and adding 2.5 cm on top.
Now we fold the lining fabric in two, right side inward, trace our pattern, adding 1 cm on all sides for allowances. 
We glue a 2.5 cm high strip of dublerin to the pockets made of the main fabric. 
We fold the pockets and lining with the right side inward and on the wrong side we sew the top edge, departing 1 cm from the edge. 
Now we turn it right side out, matching the cuts, and iron our seam towards the lining. We process the edges. 
Now we sew stitches on the machine in a semicircle without securing the seams. 
And by pulling the bottom thread, the seam allowances begin to roll up. 
Our task is to iron the whole thing and trim off the extra folds. This is the kind of pocket we got. 
We process the second pocket in the same way. We will sew it by hand, but only to the base of the coat, without touching the lining. 
We will also sew loops for the belt. They are very easy to sew, the only thing I would add is that the loops should be 1cm larger than the width of the intended belt. 
Final connection of the lining to the coat
Sew the lining to the neckline from the wrong side, aligning the middles of the products. 
We will lay the seam directly along the seam that we made earlier, sewing the collar to the back. Having turned the product inside out, we got a cute collar. 
Now we need to refine the bottom cut of our coat. To do this, we pin the lining to the coat, starting from the neckline, aligning the seams of the lining and coat with each other, respectively. 
We fold our coat in half along the middle line, matching the front sections of the coat. 
As we can see, our bottoms are of different lengths. In fact, there is nothing wrong with this. We will simply outline a new hemline, having previously checked ourselves to ensure that the hemline is at right angles to the front cut of the front and to the middle of the back. We cut along the new bottom line, capturing all layers of our coat. 
Now we bend the bottom of the coat by 3cm and iron it. You can pre-baste the hem to make it more even. 
Turn the coat inside out and join the right sides of the hem and the bottom of the lining, moving 1 cm from the edge. Starting with the hem, which we will sew from the very fold of the hem, gradually moving closer to its edge, until the cut 
But we will sew the lining at a distance of 1 cm from the edge of the cut. 
The corners of the chin can be cut off. We turn the product inside out, now through the hole we left in the side seam of the lining. And iron it, making a soft fold from the lining. 
And now we can sew our cut on the side seam of the lining, albeit on the front side, retreating literally 1 mm from the edge. 
OK it's all over Now! The hardest part is over! All we have to do is sew the belt. I decided to sew it in two parts, first folding the edges. 
Now we need to properly steam the product we have sewn, and our coat is ready! 
That's all for me. I repeat that this is my first experience of sewing such a serious product as a coat. Perhaps I didn't succeed.
Let's try on a coat on our model))
And I decided to create the first look as in my previous publication: coat + sneakers 
A coat with lapels is good because you can lay out these same lapels in different ways when wrapping the coat 
Look with trousers 
Look with boyfriend jeans 
We invite you to look through coat models with patterns; perhaps you will like one or more of them and decide to add your own creation to your wardrobe.
This article is intended for people with at least minimal design skills.
M-1. Casual coat.
Classic coat style.
A jacket-type collar with lapels and a stitched stand. Welt pockets are made with a “tuning” leaflet.
The shoulder girdle is widened; shoulder pads are not used in this model. The finishing stitch is laid along the collar, 2 sides and lapels.
The clasp is “supatnaya” (hidden).
We add 3 cm to (Shp) shoulders, and Vpkp (height of square oblique front) – 0.7 cm.
There is no provision for landing along the slope (H=0).
M-2. Coat made without fastening.
Straight, semi-fitted silhouette. Pockets are slanted with a “leaf”. The decoration of this modest coat is the original sleeves.
Model (2) is created on the basis of a coat (d/s) with a chest dart. Model the sleeve as shown in the pattern. The bottom of the sleeves and neckline are finished with facing.
M-3. Coat-robe (one-piece sleeve).
Straight cut, slightly tapered at the bottom. The sleeves are finished with one-piece cuffs. Double-breasted clasp. Leaf pockets shifted to the side.
Before you start sewing the product with a whole piece. sleeve, you need to properly prepare it using a WTO (iron). The main attention should be paid to the sleeves. To always navigate where you need to iron your sleeve and where you need to iron it, imagine your arm in a bent position at the elbow.
In this pattern, you can also adjust the length and width of the sleeves to suit your needs.
M-4. Double-breasted (demi-season) coat.
Classic double-breasted coat with an English collar. Set-in pockets are hidden in the front reliefs. There is decorative stitching along the side, raised seams and collar. In this model, the lining can be made either detached or stitched.
M-5. Double coat (2nd option).
Trapezoidal silhouette, sleeves greatly expanded towards the bottom. Double-breasted clasp. Pockets are stitching leaves, made with raised seams.
The bottom of the sleeve is decorated with fur. To get a trapezoidal silhouette, you need to add 10 cm to the Sat. The bottom of the sleeve will expand by 24 cm.
M-6. Double coat (option 3).
The top of the coat “sits” tightly on the figure, the extension starts from the hip line. Set-in jacket collar. The middle and raised seams of the back, collar flap, sides, chest darts and waistband are decorated with stitching. Set-in belt. The coat is fastened with 1 button. The waist line has warehouses arranged to meet one another. The underline is not extended. Sleeves are tapered, 2-seam. In the presented model, Popv is 1 cm larger than Pg. The skid line is standard - 2.5 cm from the edge of the side.
Modeling the printed base:
We set aside 3 cm above and also below the waist line, cut out the resulting area, which we turn (by modeling) into a set-in belt. Why do you need to close the waist dart on the shelf?
We model the chest dart and bury the waist dart.
We outline the warehouses and expand the base.
M-7. Double coat (4th option).
The product fits tightly to the silhouette. The stand-up collar is raised, the neckline becomes larger. Sleeve (shirt), widened at the bottom. Sleeve length – 7/8.
The set-in belt is decorated with many stitches. If desired, the belt can be made from fabric of a different color. The coat is fastened with a zipper.
The model is created on the basis of a d/s coat with a stand-up and /shirt/ sleeve cut.
We make changes:
Add 3 cm to Ssh.
The shoulder must be narrowed to such an extent that the back armhole is vertical.
We close the waist dart and chest dart, transfer everything to the side chest.
Shorten the collar to a width equal to the placket. The expansion of the gate at the departure is 10 cm.
No half skid required.
M-8. Double coat (5 pieces).
Straight cut, (double-breasted) wrap and long belt. Pockets are located in raised seams. The collar is made with a raised neckline.
Sleeves are 1-seam straight, with one-piece cuffs. The finishing stitch is laid along the sides, flap, waistband, and cuffs.
Coat models with patterns, built on the basis of a d/s coat, can also be used for sewing winter clothes, just do not forget to add extra insulation.
The 8th model is developed on the basis of a d/s coat with a shawl collar and straight one-seam sleeves.
The shawl collar can be replaced with an apache collar with a stand-up collar.
M-9. Coat d/s. (6 v-t).
Semi-fitted, with zipper. The shelves are asymmetrical. The collar is a high stand-up collar fastened with 2 buttons. On the right shelf at the top there is a framed pocket with a zipper. The side pockets are also framed, but without a zipper. The middle seam of the back panel ends with a slot. There is stitching along the collar, yoke and sides.
M-10. Double coat, designed for cashmere or other soft fabric.
Straight-cut coat with dropped shoulders. There is expansion along the neck. Stand collar (15 cm). Sleeves are 1-seam, widened, with stitched cuffs. Supat clasp. Patch (with flap) pockets. To build this foundation, you need to make adjustments to the measurements.
To increase the width of the neckline to Ssh + 9 cm, raise the shoulder point by 1 cm. Shorten dtp by 1 cm. Increase Shs and Shg by 1 cm (Sg will increase accordingly), reducing the shoulder dart by 1 cm respectively. To Shp add 3 cm and increase Vpkp by 1 cm. Popv = 20 cm. H=0 – the sleeve does not fit. Having made all the envisaged changes, we build the foundation. Next we model (see pattern). We redistribute the chest shoulder dart into the neckline.
M-11. Cashmere d/s coat.
A modern coat with a close-fitting silhouette that widens towards the bottom. Model with a 1-breasted wrap and a belt that is tied. Invisible pockets in raised seams. The sleeves are three-seam, one-piece. The style is created on the basis of d/s prital. coat with a “stand”, as well as a 1-seam sleeve.
To build, we make changes:
We increase the seam by 6 cm, expand the neck by 2 cm.
Shoulders Raise the back point by 1 cm, lower the shelves by 1 cm.
We reduce the accident by 1 cm.
The sleeve does not fit. H=0.
You are getting four sizes patterns.
The file with the patterns is sent instantly by email (to your e-mail address) and printed on a regular printer.
Ready-made pattern for a women's demi-season coat in four sizes Og 88 – 100 cm.
We offer a ready-made pattern for a demi-season coat with reliefs, topstitched with a turn-down collar on a small stand. Pockets are located in the seams of the reliefs. If we talk about the complexity of processing, this is probably one of the simplest types of pockets. Loop and button closure. Sleeves are set-in at the cuffs.
Using this pattern you can sew not only a demi-season coat, but also a raincoat or jacket. In the latter case, you just need to adjust the length.
We offer a ready-made pattern for a demi-season coat with a fashionable O-shaped silhouette, the so-called cocoon coat. The coat is not overloaded with elements, since the main emphasis of such models is volume. The absence of a collar will allow you to complement the coat with a light scarf or a voluminous snood.
This cocoon coat model is suitable for beginner tailors, as it does not contain elements that are difficult to process. Pockets are located in the seams of the reliefs. This is the easiest pocket to process.
The cocoon coat pattern is given in three sizes for girls with a chest circumference of 100-104-108 cm. The pattern for the same coat in smaller sizes (bust circumference 88-92-96 cm) is located.
To sew a coat you will need 2-2.5 m of fabric (depending on the size and length of the product) with a width of 1.50 m. Choose fashionable fabrics. As always, the choice is yours!
The pattern comes in three life-size sizes. no seam allowances.
A voluminous and loose cocoon coat confidently entered the wardrobe of a modern woman several seasons ago. Today, this coat style is winning the hearts of more and more fashionistas.
We offer a ready-made cocoon coat pattern in three sizes in full size O 88-92-96 cm.
The pattern is sent instantly by email (to your e-mail address). There is no need to download anything. The file with the pattern is included in the email attachment. Open, print, glue the sheets, cut out the size you need and you can start cutting.
A coat with reliefs, in the seams of which there are pockets, is one of the easiest types of pockets to process, so novice tailors can safely take on sewing this coat model.
Class="img_anons" title="Straight-fit coat pattern in three sizes
">Модное пальто без воротника, которое можно дополнить яркими аксессуарами – шарфом или поясом. Данная модель пальто очень разноплановая. Такое пальто может быть частью ансамбля из одной ткани: платье-футляр плюс пальто, юбка-карандаш плюс пальто, узкие брюки плюс пальто или служить абсолютно независимым элементом в вашем гардеробе. Статус этой модели определяете вы. Все зависит от выбранного материала, от отделки, от длины изделия, от вида застежки и пр. Пальто может быть без застежки или с застежкой на молнии, или на крючки и петли, или с застежкой на навесные петли и пуговицы. Длину рукава и самого изделия вы регулируете по собственному желанию. Выкройка – это всего лишь предложение. Результат зависит от вас.!}
All needlewomen know how you can significantly save your family budget if you sew things for your family and for yourself. Often, tailoring is several times cheaper, and the items are of better quality than market ones. Naturally, to achieve an excellent result, you will need experience, but even if you don’t have it, such practice will not be in vain and will definitely come in handy when making other things. This means it’s time to arm yourself with scissors, a sewing machine and a measuring tape, purchase materials and get to work.
A little theory will help you understand how the pattern of a women's coat is constructed. In fact, there is nothing complicated in the drawing, and the process itself involves transferring measurements taken from the figure onto paper to design a product template. Therefore, a little diligence and patience - and you can enjoy the result. Many sewing publications offer ready-made women's clothing. "Burda", for example, is one of the most popular. However, independent construction has a number of advantages, because it does not use standard generally accepted measurements for a certain size, but personal measurements. That is why the product will fit the figure much better.
This article will look at a women's coat: the pattern used to sew it, its construction, as well as the materials that are best used in the work.
Taking measurements
In order for the product to fit well on the figure and follow all the curves of the body without creases and unnecessary folds, it must be sewn taking into account the characteristics of the physique. This is exactly why measurements are taken. The pattern-basis of a women's coat requires the following measurements: volumes of the neck, chest, waist, hips, upper arm, chest darts, back width, height from the shoulder to the center of the chest, to the waist (along the back and across the front across the chest), shoulder width , length of the sleeve and the entire product. All these values need to be written down and you can start working on the drawing.
The first stage of building the base: the grid
Like most products, the women's pattern is constructed in a rectangle, divided into sections by additional lines. This is called the base grid. The vertical side of the rectangle should be equal to the length of the product, and the horizontal side should be equal to the “bust volume” measurement + 3 cm for a loose fit. The upper limit determines the level of the shoulder. From it you need to go down to chest height and draw a horizontal line in the chest area, lower - the waist and even lower - the hips.
From the vertical side along the chest line on the left you need to set aside half the width of the chest, and from the right - half of the dart solution. Raise perpendiculars from the obtained points. Afterwards, the half-circumference of the chest should be divided into 4 parts and 2 cm should be added to the resulting value. The corresponding distance should be set aside on the chest line from the point that determines the width of the back, put a dot and raise the perpendicular. Thus, a basic mesh will be created, where the back area, the armhole area and the front front area are already marked. The armhole area along the chest line needs to be divided in half and the perpendicular lowered down - this will be the border of the side seam of the product. Any product, including a women's coat, is built on the basis of this mesh. The pattern at this stage requires finalizing the details, and it can be used as a template.
The second stage of building the base: details
The rest of the process consists of finalizing the details.
- In the upper corners of the rectangle, ¼ of the neck girth measurement is retreated and the neckline is drawn. It is deepened along the back by 3 cm, along the front - by 7 cm.
- From the obtained points, shoulder sections are constructed. They should be beveled approximately 1.5 cm towards the center of the rectangle.
- Along the shoulder of the front shelf, 3 cm are retreated from the perpendicular raised from the border of the dart opening and a straight line is lowered to the same point. The shoulder seam is extended by the same distance (3 cm). This will be the bust dart.
- From the shoulder points, draw an armhole to the center point, where the side seam comes out from.
- If the model does not provide waist darts, then immediately move to the hip line. From the verticals of the rectangle along the corresponding line, ½ of the hip circumference is laid off and dots are placed. If necessary, the side seams are widened from the center of the armhole to the hips. If desired, the bottom of the coat can also be made into a trapezoid.
- If waist darts are provided, then the difference in the volumes of the hips and waist is determined and the resulting value is distributed into darts. Their top should reach the chest line, and the bottom should end at a distance of 5 cm from the hip line.
Construction of the sleeve
What kind of coat can a woman have? The pattern can be constructed with a one-piece sleeve or with a set-in sleeve. The first option is simpler and involves extending the shoulder seam by the required amount and constructing the lower section of the sleeve from the side seam. This is ideal for a beginner. If you already have minimal sewing practice, then you can work on a set-in sleeve.
To build such a sleeve, you need ready-made patterns for the shelves. Here you will need to circle the edging along the finished armhole. To do this, the shelf templates are folded along the shoulder and the cut is outlined. Afterwards it is raised by 1.5 cm and an even circle is drawn on its basis. A line is drawn along the bottom of this circle, which indicates the width of the upper part of the arm + 2 cm for a loose fit. Next, all that remains is to lower the lines for the seam of the sleeve and draw a circle around the edge, bringing it to the points of the border of the width of the arm. At this stage, all the templates are ready and you can cut out a women's coat. The pattern of this product can be used both for warm products and for a summer cardigan. You will only need to add different allowances for the loose fit and insulation of the product.
Modeling
The finished pattern of a women's coat can be modified. Here you can designate raised seams, pockets, additional decorative elements, such as straps for fastening, a double back in the shoulder blade area, and so on. You can also think about shoulder straps, a strap on the back at the waist and other elements.
Fabric selection
For coats, it is best to choose soft and warm fabrics such as polar or cashmere. But it is worth noting here that such things are often blown by the wind. Therefore, if you need a warm winter coat, then the best option would be raincoat fabric with special impregnation, which should be duplicated with padding polyester or other insulation.
