Turndown collar. Modeling collars Pattern detachable stand collar with turn-down corners

Collars are very different and it is impossible to imagine many products without them. Their appearance depends on the model and cut. Collars are divided into set-in and one-piece. Flat lay collars referred to as set-in, although recently removable flat-lying collars with clasps have become very popular. Building such collars is made on the basis of the details of the back and shelves of the product.

The name itself suggests that the collar lies completely around the neck and its stitching line coincides with the neck line. The sizes and external contours of the collars can be completely different: curved, straight, figured, combined.

They are often used in children's clothing, blouses and dresses. Small-sized, flat-lying collars look cute and neat. They can be decorated,,.

If you want, then its inner cut, adjacent to the neck, does not have to repeat the neck of the product. It is drawn as needed.

CONSTRUCTION OF A FLAT-LYING COLLAR

Before you start building a collar, you must have an accurate and final pattern for the back and front of the product. If the collar model is symmetrical along the outer contour, then one part of the shelf and half of the back are used.

Aligning them along the shoulder seam, you can draw the outer contour of the collar, conceived according to the model. Please note that, in most cases, when constructing flat collars, the line of the outer contour of the collar, crossing the middle of the back, is at an angle of 90 ° with respect to it. And the middle of the collar when cutting coincides with the shared line on the fabric.

After the shape of the collar is drawn, it must be transferred to a separate sheet and duplicated in two versions, since the flat-lying collar consists of an upper and lower one.

This is done because the collar patterns will be slightly different and need to be adjusted. Since, when sewing into the neck, the upper collar will bend along the stitching line more than the lower one, it is expanded by 2–3 mm. The thicker the fabric, the greater the expansion.

The beginning of the collar does not have to coincide with the center of the front. So it can be conceived according to the model, and, perhaps, the collar will be decorated with lace or a frill along the outer edge, or it is provided in the center of the front. Everything depends on your desire.

Flat-lying collars are perhaps the simplest and most understandable in construction.

With collars on the half-stand and the stand, the situation is somewhat different. We will talk about this in future articles.

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Construction of a cutting collar pattern - stand

Stand-up collars are very popular and are used in a wide variety of clothing, from formal suits to sportswear. Building a cutting collar pattern - the stand is not ...

Another way to make a drawing of turn-down collars.

First, we determine the model of the dress or blouse, adjust the neckline, i.e. if necessary, we deepen, expand or change the shape.

For this method, it is necessary to measure the length of the neck according to the patterns of the front and back. This is conveniently done with a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on edge. In our example, the length of the neck is 20 cm.

We put the front and back patterns aside and proceed to the construction of the collar itself.

We start by building a right angle. We mark the top with point O. From point O upwards vertically, set aside 1.5 - 12 cm and set point B. Please note that the difference is significant between the lower and upper limits of this value. And this means that the appearance of the collars will be significantly different.

In the manufacture of patterns for flat-lying collars with a low stand, a large value of the segment OB is taken.

For collars with a high stand, smaller values ​​are taken.

The greater the distance OB, the flatter the collar will lie.

We will build two drawings as an example. One - with a maximum distance of OB (12 cm), the other - with a minimum (1.5 cm).

The height of the stand varies from 1.5 to 3.5 cm.

Let's start with flat-lying collar.

In this embodiment, the distance OB will be equal to 12 cm.

Let's define the distance VA. It is equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured according to the patterns of the front and back, minus the coefficient K, where K = 0.05 x OB.

In our example, K = 0.05 x 12cm = 0.6cm.

Now we calculate the distance VA:

20cm - 0.6 = 19.04 cm

From point B, using a compass with a radius of 19.04 cm, we make a mark and put point A.

Connect points B and A.

We divide the distance BA in half. We denote the division point with the letter C. From point C along the perpendicular upwards, set aside 1-3 cm and set point C1. The greater the distance OB, the correspondingly greater the distance CC1. In our particular case, this segment is 3 cm.

We draw the stitching line with a smooth curve connecting points B, C1 and A. Remembering that the stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle.

The height of the rack in this embodiment will be approximately 1.5 - 2 cm. From point B, set aside this value upwards and set point B1.

The width of the collar can vary significantly depending on the model (6 - 14 cm). And even this is not the limit. In fact, you yourself determine the width of the collar, the shape of the swing and the shape of the front ends of the collar.

In our example, we are building a collar 8 cm wide. From point B, we measure this distance upwards and set point B2.

We turn to the construction of the ends of the collar. For our particular case, the distance AA1 is 5.5cm. When the distance OB changes, the segment AA1 will also change.

From point A upwards at a right angle to the line OA, we draw a straight line, on which we set aside 5.5 cm and set point A1. From point A1 to the right at a right angle to line AA1 we draw a straight line, on which we set aside 8 cm and set point A2. This distance is also variable.

It all depends on what configuration the ends of the collar should be. In our particular case, this distance is 8 cm. We connect points A and A2 with a straight line. We draw the departure line with a smooth line, connecting points B2 and A2.

Construction completed.

IMPORTANT. Segments AA1 and A1A2 are non-constant values. For small values ​​of the segment OB, the distance AA1 is usually calculated according to the formula AA1 = BB2 + 1cm. In our example, this formula does not work. In each case, especially if you deviate from the classic, standard forms, do not get attached to the above-mentioned segments. Moreover, you can draw a departure line without auxiliary lines. The main thing to remember is - the stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle. Everything else is controlled by you.

If you have not come across the topic of designing collars before, do everything according to the instructions for the first time in order to learn the principle of construction, so to speak, test the scheme and understand how it works. And after acquiring the slightest skills, you will see that everything is very simple.

Once you've made your collar pattern, it's best to test it on an inexpensive piece of fabric to make sure it looks exactly the way you intended.

When making a collar pattern, do not forget about the difference between the upper and lower collars.

I remind you. The template of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3 mm larger than the template of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without puffs and deformations - this is the time. So that in the process of basting the stitching line does not look out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of a perekant throughout the departure - these are two. And ultimately, to ensure a good collar fit, and hence the appearance of the entire product.

Therefore, first copy one part of the collar clearly along the line from the main drawing, this will be the collar. And then, on a separate sheet of paper, increase this pattern by adding the required value along the outer contour - this will be the upper collar.

Flat collars.

This is one of the types turn-down collars.

Flat-lying collars are characterized by a small stand or its complete absence. This type of collar is mainly used in women's blouses and dresses, as well as in children's clothing, and can come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

The drawing of a flat-lying collar is built directly on the drawings of the front and back. First, we determine the model of the dress or blouse, adjust the neckline, i.e. if necessary, we deepen, expand or change the shape.

For convenience, at the time of construction, we close the chest tuck on the shelf, and on the back - the shoulder tuck.

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Then we put the patterns of the back and front on a clean sheet of paper, aligning the shoulder sections so that the points at the base of the neckline (A4 and B3) coincide, and the points at the ends of the shoulder lines (P1 and P5) overlap each other by 1 - 3 cm. The smaller the entry, the lower the height of the rack. With a larger entry, the rise of the rack increases.

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Outlining the outline neck, partially middle seams front and back, and armhole line.
Look at the drawing to get an idea of ​​which drawing lines are involved in the construction.
We remove the patterns of the back and front and continue building the collar itself on a sheet of paper, where we drew the outline.

Attachment line The collar should exactly follow the line of the neckline of the back and front.

collar width in the middle (distance ASh) and at the ends (B4K), the departure line (ShK), as well as the starting point for stitching (K) in the middle of the front is determined by the model of your dress or blouse, i.e. you yourself. The fly-off of the collar is formed by a smooth line connecting the points W and K.
In this case, it should be remembered that the departure line should approach the line of the middle of the back at a right angle.

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Important: When making patterns, you should know the following.
The template of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3 mm larger than the template of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric the greater the difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without puffs and deformations - this is the time. So that in the process of basting the stitching line does not look out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of a perekant throughout the flight - these are two. And ultimately, to ensure a good collar fit, and hence the appearance of the entire product.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar clearly along the line from the main drawing, this will be the collar. And then, on a separate sheet of paper, increase this pattern by adding the required value along the outer contour
This will be the top collar. See Fig.6
Fig6 Cut details.

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The share line basically always corresponds to the fold line. Why in the main? Because you can position the midline obliquely. And if you are sewing a product from a fabric with a pattern (a cage, a strip, a coupon, or just a large pattern), then you are guided by the need to match this pattern.
When copying on the template, it is necessary to put marks (notches) that determine the control points for connecting the collar with the neck at the level of the shoulder seam and the middle of the back.
The last step is to copy the collar pattern itself onto a separate sheet of paper. We will end up with two pieces of a cut with a fold. Upper and lower collar or collar.

Ready! You can start cutting. Don't forget to allow for seam allowances when cutting. It is customary to add 0.75 cm along the entire contour of the collar. If you are new to sewing or think that you do not have enough experience, make a pattern with allowances on the seams. In this case, you just have to grind the pattern on the fabric and cut along the stitching line.

After making a pattern, it's best to test it on an inexpensive piece of fabric to make sure it looks exactly the way you intended.

The departure line, and hence the shape of the collar, can have a wide variety of configurations. Figure 6 shows 4 types of flat-lying collars with different configurations of the departure line. You can complete this collection.

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We offer several options for flat collars as an example.
In this example, we deepened the neck somewhat.

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In the following example, we will expand the neck.

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And one more option, in which the starting point for stitching the collar is slightly offset from the center of the front. This option is used if, for example, a ruffle is sewn along the edge of the collar. Or if you intend to attach some kind of decoration (accessory) in the center of the neckline, such as a brooch, bow or flower, etc. Or if you just decided that - just your desire is enough.

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Having mastered the principle of construction, you can design any form of a flat-lying collar on this basis. Starting from school, sailor and ending with an unlimited number of fantasy collars.
Create and enjoy your creations.

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Turn-down collar - a type of collar in which its edges lie freely on the shoulders or chest. This is one of the most common and comfortable types of this accessory for clothing, as it looks neat, does not interfere with movement, and gives blouses, jackets and dresses a complete look.

Types of turn-down collars

There are many varieties of these collars. Usually they differ in how large the turn-down parts are, what kind of edges they have, how such a collar is combined with a stand. Consider the main types of turn-down collars.

Cape- a wide turn-down collar, soft enough, covering almost all shoulders. Sewn to the neckline, has a round shape, usually used on dresses or blouses.

Collar with lapels- Another type of wide collar, which usually frames the V-neck and has additional lapels sewn to the bottom of the collar. Most often, jackets or coats are sewn with such a turn-down collar.

Collar Peter Pan- a kind of detail for processing the neck, which is cut out in a circle and has rounded edges that diverge widely from each other. Being quite modest in appearance, the Peter Pan collar gives the image a special naivety and youth. Most often, dresses are sewn with a similar turn-down collar.

Shark, business card or collar called oblique- a kind of turn-down collar, which can be found on men's and women's shirts. It usually has strongly diverging ends, which makes it convenient to wear with ties.

Eton collar- a turn-down collar, reminiscent of a scythe, which was previously used in men's clothing, but has now become more commonly used in sewing women's dresses and blouses. Has rounded edges.

Fashion for turn-down collars

Turn-down collar jackets, dresses, shirts, blouses - all this is now at the height of fashion. The first trend that is fashionable to highlight is the use of a contrasting turn-down collar. It is usually white or black, although any other color other than the color of the fabric of the main item can be used. This collar serves as a fashionable accent and gives things a special character. Another trend is richly decorated turn-down collars. Turn-down collars embroidered with beads and sequins, crystals, decorated with studs, rhinestones and spikes are in fashion. There are even special ones that successfully replace a necklace or pendant around the neck.

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will analyze one of the most interesting and extensive design topics - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it with rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our site, select "basic dress pattern" and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly build your individual pattern, you can print it even on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let's start our "dive" into the topic of modeling collars with the most simple and understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand collars are built in the same sequence, only they have different values ​​\u200b\u200band line configurations. Collars can be with rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end to end, more or less close to the neck. The clasp can be located both in front and behind.

Let's now analyze the construction of the stand collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example, 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and set aside this value in a straight line. To prevent the stand from moving away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the tighter the stand will fit to the neck). Now we set the desired height of the rack (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our collar - the stand. Remember to keep the rack height constant! A blue control notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar, you will align it with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand collar as on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the neck of the back minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the rack according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And draw a beautiful stand! Also, do not forget to check the height of the rack.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. Such a cut of the collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts in the line of the stand.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the value by which one part of the shelf will go behind the other). Usually it is about 2 cm for the central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to expand the neck of the shelf and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. We connect the points obtained with lines (red).

We determine the height of the rack. In the example with a one-piece stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder cut it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back, we set aside the height of the stand on the continuation of the line, and in the area of ​​the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition of the collar to the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we correct the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw the upper cut of the rack, rounding in front.

Now next in line flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder tuck on the back and the chest tuck on the shelf into the armhole line - it is much more convenient to draw a flat lying collar. Now we put the back part on the shelf, leading 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder cut. Determine the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! On the middle seam of the back we set aside the largest value (5-6 cm), slightly less along the shoulder seam (4.5-5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has something with such a collar. Most often they can be found in shirts. To simplify the sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing a stand-up collar as on a blue blouse. As in the stand collars, we initially draw the length of the neckline minus 0.5 cm in a straight line. From one edge (where the middle seam of the back will be) to set the necessary bend of the bottom line of the collar, set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the value of the stand (2, 5 - 3 cm), and the so-called "back collar width" (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up, (there may be other values ​​\u200b\u200bdepending on the height of the stand and the width of the departure you have chosen). And we try according to the pattern, we draw a collar !!! The rack can be either detachable or one-piece (Figure 6).

Collar cut shawl. These collars are very effective and not laborious in comparison with jacket collars. The upper collar is cut together with the selection, which greatly simplifies the whole work. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we advise you to start with just such a model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache.

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as on the first model. First, let's set the bead width to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, according to the model, you need to determine the depth of the cut and put a point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - set point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the inflection line of the collar (red). Now we measure the length of the neck of the back and with the help of a compass from point a, we make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the neck of the back.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c tangentially set off the value of the collar departure plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the width of the departure is 6 cm, then the segment cd \u003d 6.8 cm). Point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, we finish the line on the neck - we get the lower cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl departure perpendicular to the lower cut of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last action is to draw a smooth line of the upper cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's see what details we got in the end (Figure 8).

Pickup. We need to draw the inner line of the selection, to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), we draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and finish at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. We transfer the part onto a separate sheet of paper along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the transition area of ​​the pick-up to the facing of the back (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer pick-up lines (blue solid and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is made detachable. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The shelf is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket type collars. Such collars are made of four parts - the lower and upper collars and two rack parts. Sometimes the racks are made in one piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the shelf. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with great care, otherwise the appearance of the entire product will be spoiled.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first construction steps are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a side 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm (for the central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the inflection line of the collar, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left, set point b. We decide on the desired depth of the cutout and draw the line of the inflection of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the neck of the back - we put point c. Then, from point c, tangentially, we set aside the width of the back of the collar plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. We connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d, we restore the perpendicular to the line da and set aside on it, first the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the lines of the departure of the collar, ruffle and lapel. Refer to Figure 11 for an understanding of these concepts.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look like in the finished product, draw it on the right side on the details of the shelf (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this with the help of tracing paper.

Now it remains to draw a complete rack. The upper cut is drawn below the inflection line by 0.5 cm, the width is left 2-2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting details:

• Pickup. It is drawn similarly to the collar of a shawl. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
• Collar (lower and upper). Copies completely with the rack.
• Shelf. We translate everything, only without a collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, diverse and quite complex. So, if you have any questions - feel free to ask them in