Hem felt boots with a sewing needle family and school. To hem the felt boots. Tools and materials for work

To repair shoes at home, they usually resort to using an awl, since a needle, even a thick one, cannot cope alone: it is not easy to pierce hard material, it is difficult to drag a needle, and it often breaks. In addition, in places that are inconvenient for work, especially in the toe of shoes, the needle will neither turn around nor pierce. Here, the awl does not make things much easier: it pierces easily, but how then to thread the thread into the hole? Again, a needle is called to help, but the difficulties with it have already been mentioned.

Therefore, craftsmen find more effective devices for repairing shoes. We offer two of them, sent by the readers of the magazine.

I propose to make a special stitching tool using a regular sewing needle No. 120-150. The needle must be fixed, like an awl, in a wooden handle, in which you need to select a hole for a spool with thread (from a sewing machine). The axis of rotation of the spool is a screw. The spool is restrained from spontaneous unwinding by a brake pad at the bottom of the hole and a spring.

The thread is threaded into the needle as usual. Thanks to the handle, it will not be difficult to pierce any thick and dense shoe material with such a device. Another, purl thread is threaded into the formed thread loop with an auxiliary needle. This forms a seam that is in no way inferior in strength to a machine one.

1 - needle (from a sewing machine); 2 - thread; 3 - crimp ring of the handle; 4 - brake lining; 5 - spool (from a sewing machine); 6 - axis (screw); 7 - brake spring; 8 - fixing screw of the spring; 9 - wooden handle When it is necessary to restore a stitched sole, a parted seam of leather clothes, to hem felt boots, they often use an awl with a hook at the end. However, compared to the needle, the awl, unfortunately, makes a much larger hole, and the hook often tears the material during its return movement.

1 - handle; 2 - needle; 3 - material; 4 - loop; 5 - auxiliary needle; 6 - purl thread

A chapter from the book, The Basics of Survival.
Winter always comes at the wrong time. This problem is especially acute when you are far away from your home, and even in foreign lands, right in the middle of nowhere. It would be necessary to put on winter shoes, but nothing. There were several pairs of felt boots, but all the felt boots were unlined and old, and even undersized, moth-eaten. And this problem, until it develops into a real problem, must be solved quickly and efficiently. Any business must be done immediately well, it turns out badly.
So there are several options for solving the problem. Naturally, we choose the simplest and do not require special professional skills. In the "new" felt boots, it will hardly be convenient to force in large cities, but you will save your feet from frostbite.
FIRST OPTION: pick up boots according to size and hem the soles to these boots.
Required tools: shoe knife and shoe hook. Instead of a shoe knife, any other knife is also suitable, only well sharpened and with a sharp end of the blade. A shoe awl is made from a suitable nail or piece of wire. The end (of the wire) is flattened, the head of the hook is cut with files and needle files as shown in the figure. The only condition is that the hook itself should be as thin and sharp as possible, so that the felt boot itself is less destroyed after being pierced with an awl. And the cavity for the thread should be larger and dumber, so that it is convenient to insert (without looking) the thread into the hole and the thread itself would not tear on the sharp ends of the hook.
The material of thread for hemming boots can be any, preferably from natural materials, but synthetic ones are also suitable. Only the threads should be thicker and stronger. Rubbing the threads with tar (wax, paraffin ...), making a thread, is optional. Otherwise, you will have to lay insoles in felt boots so as not to stain socks or footcloths.
The sole can be cut from a piece of suitable felt or the tops of old boots. The tops of boots usually have different thicknesses, from the mouth of the tops to the foot, so the thicker part of the sole blank is placed under the heel, or the sole is assembled from two pieces (layers) of the tops so that the thickness of the sole is approximately the same along its entire length. A two-layer sole (sometimes together with a felt heel) is stitched with large stitches along the entire length, so that the layers of felt (and the future heel) do not move relative to each other.
It is undesirable to cut two identical blanks of soles at once. Felt boots in a pair differ in size and, therefore, the size of each sole must be selected according to a specific felt boot.
Now we put the sole on the felt boot and sew it sighting in two places, in the heel and toe. We check how the sole sits, if there are any flaws. This is the fastest, but the most responsible operation. Walk a little and make sure that the sole sits on the felt boot as it should and does not “look” to the side. If everything is in order, then we sew the sole along the perimeter with the main seam.
In order for the threads connecting the sole with the felt boots not to be rubbed, an incision is made in the sole along the path of the future seam. The line of the future seam is drawn and the sole is cut along the line by about one third of the thickness, where the seam thread is hidden. If you want to duplicate the seam with another seam, then draw and cut two cuts. Trimming the sole under the seam is done even before the sighting filing.
Now specifically about the seam. With an awl, we pierce the felt boot and the sole only from the outside to the inside, carefully protecting the hand in the felt boot from injury. We pierce the sole and felt boots with an awl and from the inside we put a thread in the hole. We pull out the thread, so that we get approximately two identical segments, only one segment of the thread is in the boots, and the second is outside. Next, with a step of 5-10 millimeters, we pierce the sole along the notch and pull out the thread. But already only a small loop and we thread the outer thread into this loop and tighten it so that the connection of the threads is somewhere in the middle of the sewn package.
The shorter the seam pitch, the better. Over time, the sole wears out to the seam, the seam thread also begins to wear out and, as a result, the fluffy ends of the seam threads hold the sole. The fibers of the fluffy ends of the thread, as it were, grow together with the felt of the sole of the felt boot. Naturally, the more these tips are, the stronger the connection will be.
SECOND OPTION: The boots are small and their size should be slightly increased in the length of the foot and its width.
This is where inserts are easiest. By cutting off the tops from unusable boots to the soles, a longer sock can be cut off from the remaining heads and sewn on instead of the cut off, short old one, as shown in the figure. Then make an incision along the sole of the felt boot and sew-insert the corresponding insert there. And only after these alterations sew new soles to the felt boots.
THIRD OPTION: Sew felt boots, or rather winter shoes with felt soles, yourself.
If you are afraid of the grandiosity of the idea of the task, then let's start small, with insulated socks for winter shoes. For example, take knitted woolen socks. How long does it take to tie them by hand? 8-10 hours for a couple? But to sew, about the same warm ones from thin felt, overcoat cloth, from a fur skin from an old fur coat, you need two hours no more. To create a pattern, first spend extra time, but then there will be no delays.
But first, we will make a pattern using thin cardboard, thick paper and plastic film. We circle our sole and cut out the first pattern (insole) from cardboard. Immediately mark the toe (A), heel (B) with a dot. We take a tailor's centimeter or a piece of rope and determine the place of the highest rise of the foot and also mark on the insole where the centimeter (or rope) came into contact with the insole (G) and (D).
We do not remove the foot from the insole and put a piece of thin polyethylene film on the instep of the leg, so that a straight cut of the film passes through points (D), (E) and the place of the highest instep of the foot. Carefully lay the rest of the film on the foot and toes and mark with a line the points of contact of the film with the insole. We cut out the blank of the second pattern from the film, lifting the leg and transfer it to a more durable cardboard. We immediately mark points (A), (D) and (D) on the pattern.
It remains to make the third pattern, the top of the sock. We take a sheet of thick paper (whatman paper, magazine cover ... an A4 sheet is enough), divide the sheet with a dot in half and from the resulting point we set aside half the distance from (D) to (D) in both directions. We mark the corresponding points and then by trial and error, applying paper to the foot, cut out the instep of the foot on the paper. If it doesn't work the first time, try on another sheet of paper. When the cutout of the foot is obtained, check it for a match with the second pattern between points (D) and (E).
Now, on the insole pattern, from points (D) and (E) along the edge of the insole, we measure the distance to point (B) on the heel of the insole. When you make a pattern of the bootleg on cardboard, you will need to set aside the resulting length from the corresponding points. This means that the length of the backdrop or bootleg pattern will be the sum of the distances from points (B) along the edge of the insole to (D) and (D) and the distance from (D) to (D). Shaft height according to your taste.
Now if (mentally) sew the resulting patterns, we get three seams:
- along the edge of the insole,
- from point (D) to (D) on the rise,
-and the seam from the point (B) or from the heel up the leg.
The question is, what is the difference in the seam behind the leg from the heel or the seam in front of the instep?
Big difference. Look at your heel. It protrudes a little back and so that the sock (and any other shoes with backs too) do not fly off the foot, the back seam must be slightly narrowed along the heel and only then allowed to expand along the bootleg.
Medieval shoemakers did not make this narrowing on the heel, and therefore the shoes of those times were made with special straps that had to be tied around the foot so that boots and other shoes did not fly off the foot.
To complete the picture of making a pattern, it is necessary to sew a sock from a durable and relatively non-extensible fabric. Leave three millimeters for the seams and sew all the seams except the heel over the edge. We will also sew the heel seam over the edge, but later and with adjustments for the heel.
From this resulting sock we will make real patterns. For example, we only need fur footprints. We cut out the sock as it should be along the top, that is, we cut off all the excess, and then spreading the sock at the seams, we transfer the shape and dimensions to the cardboard, and we get the desired pattern of the trace from just two parts. This is if the seam from (D) to (D) is not dissolved. Just when making a pattern of fur tracks, do not forget to give an allowance for the seams and the volume of the fur.
For thin felt or rag socks, seam allowances are kept to a minimum. Moccasins are also sewn using the same technology among some Indian tribes.
Continued in

It seems that in the modern age of advanced technologies, the problem of how to hem felt boots should not arise in front of a person. After all, if they suddenly lose weight, the consumer can always go to the store and buy new ones, as store shelves are bursting with an overabundance of consumer goods. But no!

Fashionable felt boots on Tanechka's feet

Not ordinary, but exclusive felted boots came into fashion: multi-colored, embroidered with beads and rhinestones, with sewn applications, lace, trimmed with fur. To put on such felt boots on the legs to match the queen herself! But it's such a pity to spoil such handmade masterpieces on buses and wet tram steps. Yes, and sometimes you need to go to the store - and you will have to walk on the dirty floor in amazing boots ...

So the thought comes to mind: why not make the soles of the felt boots in advance, immediately after purchase or manufacture, if the boots were made at home with your own hands? Of course, this is a wonderful way! Only here is how to hem felt boots, alas, few people know today.

Tools and materials for work

Sole

Of course, a very important point is the material from which the sole will be made. You can use the tops of old boots, cutting out the outlines of the foot with a sharp shoe knife. It is only important to remember that the felt sole should be 1-2 cm larger than the foot of the one who will then wear felted boots. You can cut the sole from leatherette, leatherette or rubber.

And some prefer to use ready-made rubber soles for hemming, which they also buy at specialized outlets.

Thread for hemming felt boots

The second important point is the preparation of threads for filing. Today you can buy special materials for shoe repair work. But in the absence of such, it is realistic to make threads on your own by twisting them from several harsh or silk threads and waxing them. For waxing, wax or soap is used. The thread is pulled through wax, soap or paraffin, holding the latter in one hand and the ball in the other. The waxed thread cuts into the edge of the soap or paraffin, stretches along the formed groove and as a result is covered with a protective layer, which also helps it glide well during operation.

Sometimes thick fishing line is used for hemming boots. It should be remembered that for work the master needs two balls of thread.

Sewing tools

Since it is impossible to hem felt boots without pulling the thread through two layers of material, the master will need an awl to make holes. And you also need a special shoe hook. It is very similar to knitting, only made of high-strength steel and sharply sharpened. Well, you definitely need a sharp shoe knife, which can be replaced with a scalpel or a sharp straight razor.

Hand protection - safety precautions

Fingers should be wrapped with adhesive plaster to insure them from cuts and calluses.

Getting Started - Preparation

Since it is not at all tricky to hem felt boots correctly, it is quite possible to try to do it yourself. If everything you need for work is prepared, then you can get to work.

One of the balls is taken in the left (not leading) hand. The hand with the ball is placed inside the boots. In the right hand of the shoemaker, the master takes the hook. If necessary, first pierce both stitched layers with an awl, and then continue to work with a hook.

The sole to the felt boots must first be “basted”: make a crocheted puncture in the front of the felt boots - meaning its lower part, which will be in contact with the floor and the ground. The end of the thread is pulled out by a hook from the ball, which is inside, out. Then a loop is also pulled out next to it, cut. The two ends are tightly tied together.

Then, according to the same algorithm, “tacking” the back of the sole is performed. After that, it is recommended to make a transverse boot seam from the rear attachment point to the front.

Shoe stitch description

The sole itself can be sewn in two ways: through the edge, when one ball is inside the boots, and outside along the edge, when the punctures are not made inside the boot, but out to the side. Then it makes no sense to put a hand with a ball inside the hemmed shoes.

As mentioned above, to hem a felt boot with your own hands, the master will need two balls of thread. In the process of work, they are located on different sides of the seam. And now let's proceed directly to the consideration of the process of how to hem felt boots.

The instructions for laying a seam are extremely similar to sewing with a sewing machine. The master pierces the product with a hook, grabs the thread from the first ball with it, pulls the end out and ties the tip of the thread from the second ball to it.

Then, at a distance of a centimeter, a second puncture is made with a hook, the first thread is again captured, but already pulled out by a loop. A ball with a second, outer thread is pushed into the loop. The seam is tightened with force - this is when fingers not wrapped in advance with adhesive tape can suffer!

Restoration together with decorative finishing - two in one

According to this algorithm, a seam is made according to the path outlined in advance with chalk, dry soap or a pencil, a pen. At the very end of the seam, one of the threads is cut off (if the seam came from the inside of the felt boot, then it will be an internal thread), and the ends are tightly tied.

In the same way, you can sew backs or sheathe socks of felt boots with leather, apply patches or decorative applications. But if felt boots with holes and scuffs in the form of pits that have already formed are hemmed, then before applying patches or sewing the sole into the pits (or holes), you need to put a piece of cotton wool or padding polyester tightly.

Or you can “hide” shoe defects under fur trim, embroidery, lace or rhinestones. Thus, it will be possible to add charm to the felted boots and make a high-quality restoration of the product.

We carry out repair of felted shoes of any production, except for products made by the method of "cold, soapy" felting.

We carry out post-warranty repairs of products of our own production.

Sole replacement: 270 rubles + the cost of a new sole

Language replacement: 180 rubles

Zipper replacement: 400 rubles + the cost of the zipper

Shaft stretching: 280 rubles

Production of a new boot, cloaks for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 2100 rubles

Production of a new felt boot for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 1950 rubles

Production of a new boot for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 2430 rubles

Updating the acrylic drawing, a new drawing on the surface of the product: 540 rubles

Repair of felted shoes from other manufacturers:

Sole replacement: 350 rubles + the cost of a new sole

Language replacement: 230 rubles (pair)

Zipper replacement: 390 rub + zipper cost

Replacement and installation of eyelets: 30 rubles per 1 piece

Shaft stretching: 380 rubles

Production of a new boot, cloaks for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 2880 rubles

Production of a new felt boot for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 2630 rubles

Production of a new boot for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 3120 rubles

Updating the acrylic drawing, a new drawing on the surface of the product: 350 rubles

Felt lining (sole made of "micropork"): 800 rubles

Felt lining (felt sole 3 cm): 610 rubles

Backrest restoration: 280 rubles

Professional cleaning of felt boots: 170 rubles (per pair)

How to hem felt boots

Anatoly Shishkin

For example, take knitted woolen socks. How long does it take to tie them by hand? 8-10 hours for a couple? But to sew, about the same warm ones from thin felt, overcoat cloth, from a fur skin from an old fur coat, you need two hours no more. To create a pattern, first spend extra time, but then there will be no delays.
But first, we will make a pattern using thin cardboard, thick paper and plastic film. We circle our sole and cut out the first pattern (insole) from cardboard. Immediately mark the toe (A), heel (B) with a dot. We take a tailor's centimeter or a piece of rope and determine the place of the highest rise of the foot and also mark on the insole where the centimeter (or rope) came into contact with the insole (G) and (D).
We do not remove the foot from the insole and put a piece of thin polyethylene film on the instep of the leg, so that a straight cut of the film passes through points (D), (E) and the place of the highest instep of the foot. Carefully lay the rest of the film on the foot and toes and mark with a line the points of contact of the film with the insole. We cut out the blank of the second pattern from the film, lifting the leg and transfer it to a more durable cardboard. We immediately mark points (A), (D) and (D) on the pattern.
It remains to make the third pattern, the top of the sock. We take a sheet of thick paper (whatman paper, magazine cover ... an A4 sheet is enough), divide the sheet with a dot in half and from the resulting point we set aside half the distance from (D) to (D) in both directions. We mark the corresponding points and then by trial and error, applying paper to the foot, cut out the instep of the foot on the paper. If it doesn't work the first time, try on another sheet of paper. When the cutout of the foot is obtained, check it for a match with the second pattern between points (D) and (E).
Now, on the insole pattern, from points (D) and (E) along the edge of the insole, we measure the distance to point (B) on the heel of the insole. When you make a pattern of the bootleg on cardboard, you will need to set aside the resulting length from the corresponding points. This means that the length of the backdrop or bootleg pattern will be the sum of the distances from points (B) along the edge of the insole to (D) and (D) and the distance from (D) to (D).

Felted shoe repair

Shaft height according to your taste.
Now if (mentally) sew the resulting patterns, we get three seams:
- along the edge of the insole,
- from point (D) to (D) on the rise,
-and the seam from the point (B) or from the heel up the leg.
The question is, what is the difference in the seam behind the leg from the heel or the seam in front of the instep?
Big difference. Look at your heel. It protrudes a little back and so that the sock (and any other shoes with backs too) do not fly off the foot, the back seam must be slightly narrowed along the heel and only then allowed to expand along the bootleg.
Medieval shoemakers did not make this narrowing on the heel, and therefore the shoes of those times were made with special straps that had to be tied around the foot so that boots and other shoes did not fly off the foot.
To complete the picture of making a pattern, it is necessary to sew a sock from a durable and relatively non-extensible fabric. Leave three millimeters for the seams and sew all the seams except the heel over the edge. We will also sew the heel seam over the edge, but later and with adjustments for the heel.
From this resulting sock we will make real patterns. For example, we only need fur footprints. We cut out the sock as it should be along the top, that is, we cut off all the excess, and then spreading the sock at the seams, we transfer the shape and dimensions to the cardboard, and we get the desired pattern of the trace from just two parts. This is if the seam from (D) to (D) is not dissolved. Just when making a pattern of fur tracks, do not forget to give an allowance for the seams and the volume of the fur.
For thin felt or rag socks, seam allowances are kept to a minimum. Moccasins are also sewn using the same technology among some Indian tribes.
Continued at http://www.proza.ru/2011/11/10/1186

See also Extreme cuisine: http://www.proza.ru/2009/06/24/1117

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My father once, when I was still small, hemmed felt boots for all members of our family and other relatives. I helped him roll the dart. It's funny to think about it. And they put on galoshes on felt boots and went to ride down the hill. Class:)!

Vladimir Migalev 15.03.2018 06:40 Alleged violation

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Summer memories are the best. And the smell, and the view, and the novelty of impressions. I understand you!
Anatoly.

Anatoly Shishkin 03/15/2018 06:46 Alleged violation

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This work was written 7 reviews, the last one is displayed here, the rest are in full list.

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A new rubber sole is not easy to stick to a worn out nylon or polyurethane sole. You can use a kind of adapter: weld a piece of cotton fabric to the old sole with an iron, and glue a new rubber sole to it with Moment.
Scuffed heels on leather and rubber shoes can be repaired with nylon. The technology of work is simple. The place where the capron is to be welded must be thoroughly dried and cleaned with an emery cloth. Then wipe the prepared area with a heated soldering iron.

Repair boots? How easier?

Rubber or leather will be slightly charred, bubbled, and become sticky. After such preparation, you can start surfacing. Attach a small compressed piece of a nylon stocking to the prepared place and press its end with the tip of a heated soldering iron. Rub the melted part of the capron into the bubbled rubber (or skin). This operation must be repeated until the entire surface of the heel is absolutely flat. The welded nylon should be leveled not with a soldering iron tip, but with the rod itself. A heel repaired in this way will require re-repair no earlier than a month later. And the whole repair will take you no more than 30 minutes. In the same way, you can fill a hole in the sole or glue a lagging section of the sole, for example, on the toe of a boot.

It is not easy to nail heels to plastic heels: nails go with great difficulty. You can do the following: drill holes in the heels, hammer wooden plugs into them, and nail the heels to them, or drill holes in the heel with a diameter of 1 mm and hammer thicker nails into them that fasten the heels.

Scuffed heels are a common "disease". When repairing, stuff or stick a layer of dense rubber (3-6 mm thick) on the heel, and glue sponge rubber into the resulting wedge-shaped gap (Fig. 1a). You will be convinced that the next "disease" will come much later than after a regular repair.

A worn out rubber heel can be repaired with epoxy mixed with steel filings. The desired section of the heel is cleaned, adhesive tape is glued to the side, and the mass is poured into the resulting recess. After such repair, the heel serves for another 2-3 months.

If rubber is glued to the leather sole during shoe repair, we recommend cutting off the edge on it at an angle of 45 ° (Fig. 1b). The rubber sticker will last longer, and the repair will become completely invisible.

Steel balls pressed into holes drilled in the heels with a depth and diameter slightly less than the diameter of the ball will help to increase the period of wearing boots (Fig. 1c). The balls are not inferior to horseshoes, and the knock when walking is much less.

To protect the heels from fast grinding, we recommend inserting 1-2 bolts into them from below. Bolts are taken with a diameter of 5-6 mm with a head of 10-11 mm. In places where the heel wears out the most, shallow holes are drilled and bolts are inserted into them (Fig. 1d). When they wear out, they are easy to replace with new ones.

You can solder the patch to the boots as follows. Put a nylon flagellum (for example, a stocking that has become unusable) 3-4 mm thick on the edge of the hole previously cleaned of dirt, and put a felt patch on top. Slightly lifting the patch in one place, run the tip of a heated soldering iron over the nylon and, as soon as the nylon melts, press this section of the patch against the felt boots with your fingers (Fig. 1e). At the same time, keep in mind: nylon melts quickly, but also cools quickly. By doing this operation around the entire perimeter of the patch, you will get a circular weld, which will be neater and much stronger than a seam made with threads or dagger. In the same way, you can solder a new outsole to a leaky felt boot. You can repair felt boots in this way without a soldering iron. Cut pieces of 2-3 cm from an old nylon stocking. Fold each of them in three, put it on an awl and melt it on a gas burner flame. Quickly apply the melted mass to one of the areas under the edge of the patch. Press the patch to the felt boots and immediately, before the awl is welded, pull it out. Do this operation around the entire perimeter of the patch. If you weld the outsole, for greater strength, it doesn’t hurt to weld not only its edge, but also the middle to the felt boot.

From the "death throes" caused by a nail that constantly crawls out of the sole (or heel) of your boot and digs into your leg, there is a simple but trouble-free "cure". Raise the insole and stick a pushpin over the nail (Fig. 1e). The "obstinate" nail will rest against the head of the button, and your leg will be reliably protected.

A washer cut from an unnecessary plastic bottle will help to make the strap of the beach rubber “footprints” hold firmly in place (Fig. 1g). Gluing soles to boots is not an easy task. It is very difficult to press them tightly against each other until the glue dries completely. A kind of press for this is the chamber of a volleyball, placed in a polyethylene (can be made of cloth) bag. The toes of the shoes are stuffed with soft paper, and then, putting the shoes in a bag, inflate the ball chamber to the desired volume (Fig. 1h).

It is very difficult for a kid taking his first steps to stay on a slippery parquet floor. By gluing two narrow (1 cm) rubber strips to the soles of his boots, you will insure the child against falling and the fear associated with it, which for a long time discourages the child from walking independently (Fig. 1i).

Rice. 1 Shoe repair

Does anyone know a shoe repair shop in Moscow where boots can be hemmed?

The famous Russian shoes have now become a rarity. It is used by citizens, by the nature of their profession, who work for a long time in the cold. For our winter they are ideal, they have no “analogues” in the world.

Now citizens who buy felt boots do not even know if they are hemmed in the workshops. First they come to ask, then they carry. Of course they hem, but maybe not everywhere.

The price of the service is from 500 rubles for an adult couple, for children, of course, it is cheaper. The cost consists of now expensive domestic microporous rubber and high consumption of glue. For this reason, some "modern masters" avoid this work.

Loved by many at the same time, an additional felt pad under the sole for greater insulation, the client often has to look for it himself (they find it in the form of old boots).

Valenki in Russia were, are, and will be the most popular winter shoes for villages, distant northern shifts, residents of the private sector in cities and just lovers of this simple and perfectly warm footwear.

In this master class, I will try to explain how I hem felt boots (slippers).

How such felt boots appeared is described.

We will need:

Felt boots (slippers) that need to be hemmed.
Sole.
Hemming threads (I have “sewing threads 1500D / 2 extra strong” (MICRON)).
Stitching awl (D=2-3 mm).
8 safety pins.

At first, I hemmed slippers with factory-made needle-punched felt, but such slippers are very slippery (on tiles and on laminate). Now for the sole I buy slippers (100-120 rubles per pair). Satisfied with the fact that you can choose by color, and you do not need to mark holes for the line. Before buying, I always measure with a tailor's centimeter (you can’t be guided by the written size).

I wear felt boots on the blocks. To be honest, I hem it still wet. I try on the sole so that everything fits evenly, symmetrically. I fix with 4 safety pins.

A sewing awl is very similar to a sewing machine needle. On one side (near the ear) it has a notch.

On the other hand, there is a groove along the entire needle.
We thread the thread into the awl. We insert the thread from the side of the groove! Otherwise, the line will fail.

I start sewing from the heel. One hand is inside the felt boot, we pierce the sole with the felt with an awl (For some reason, when hemming, I lead the line away from me, so the awl with a groove “looks” from me. The free end of the thread is directed towards me).

We grope for an awl with a thread inside the boots. The free end of the thread, with a margin for the entire filing, is pulled inward. We remove the awl.

Let's make the next cut. If the awl is carefully pulled back, then a loop is formed inside the boots. Sometimes, this loop is very small, it’s easier for me to feel the thread (from the side of the notch) and make this loop bigger.

We fill the free end of the thread into the loop formed. We tighten both threads so that the place of their connection is exactly in the middle.

So we continue along the entire sole.

In the heel area, we make 2-3 stitches on top of the already laid ones. Pull the inner thread up, fasten. We hide the tips between the sole and the boots. Ready!