The easiest coat pattern. Draped coat

Today's variety of women's wardrobe is simply amazing. A huge number of unique cuts and styles, combined with bright and delicate shades, as well as contrasts and original decor, makes a modern girl simply charming. Fashion designers work tirelessly to create new looks, now and then drawing inspiration from the styles of yesteryear. So they decided to turn the eyes of the beautiful half of humanity to such a popular cocoon coat in the 50s and 70s of the last century. A photo, a pattern of this product, as well as a description of the sewing process will be discussed in this article.

Manufacturing options

The ability to sew or knit has always been valuable. Not every woman has the talent to create a unique thing from a skein of thread or a piece of fabric that will take its rightful place in the wardrobe. But if there is even the slightest ability and the desire to develop them, it's just wonderful.

The idea of sewing or knitting a cocoon coat with your own hands is a great option to start creativity. This piece of clothing will look perfect in any performance. It can be a large knitting from a thick thread or, on the contrary, openwork weaving; a coat with a satin lining or an option insulated with a padding polyester. In this case, everything is in the hands of the craftswoman, and only her imagination determines the style of execution.

Choice of coat fabric

When sewing any product, it is very important to choose the right fabric. Naturally, in this case, you should choose the right materials. It can be soft cashmere, tweed or polar, or coarser fabrics such as boucle or drape. The appearance of the fabric depends on the weave of the threads. It can be satin, twill, linen or a combination.

For winter, the best option would be thick-clothed fabrics, which can be duplicated with a lining with insulation or make a liner. For the demi-season option, cashmere with a thin lining is suitable. But for a very thin coat, it is better to choose a gabardine or a diagonal.

When choosing a material, you need to consider what the pattern of the cocoon coat will be. Fabrics with plain weave, which can be attributed to highly loose materials, are more suitable for models with one-piece sleeves. It should be borne in mind here that the material can be capricious. You should not take too soft fabrics for such a model, because the coat must keep its shape. It is also undesirable to use highly stretchy fabrics that can deform during wear.

Buying yarn

With the choice of yarn, everything is much simpler. There is only one rule: the thread must be of sufficient thickness. The composition in this case plays a secondary role. But what's stopping you from experimenting? which is used when knitting a thing is identical to the one on which the product is sewn. When knitting parts, it is only important to keep the proportions and repeat all the bends of the template. Therefore, when choosing a yarn, the thickness of the future woven fabric should be taken into account. If the yarn is too thick, then you will have to slightly increase the pattern around the perimeter, but if it is thin, reduce it.

Ideal for a warm knitted coat would be yarns such as boucle, wool, wool mixture, mohair. But, of course, no one canceled the experiments, and therefore you can try to create an amazing knitted thing from yarn with beads, sequins and lurix. Yes, such a product will come out not warm and, rather, not like a coat, but like a chic jacket, but it is quite suitable for a summer or spring evening. Naturally, the pattern of a cocoon coat with this design should not be with too large allowances for a free fit.

Measurements - the basis for work

A product template is the basis for any thing, be it factory or individual production. How is a pattern built? Do-it-yourself cocoon coat is easy to make. First you need to take measurements from the figure, and then correctly transfer them to paper. If there are problems with the design, you can go one of the easiest ways.

What is the easiest way to make a pattern? The cocoon coat has a one-piece sleeve. And it is this option that is perfect for beginner seamstresses. It is quite easy to build a blank. First of all, you should take measurements: the volume of the neck, chest and hips, shoulder width, sleeve length and product length, chest height, front length to the waist. It is also possible to take a reference measurement from the wrist to the wrist through the neck to facilitate the construction process.

For a template, a thick construction film is best suited, on which you can draw with a regular ballpoint pen. It is quite easy to store, does not tear or wrinkle, unlike paper. So how is a pattern made? Do-it-yourself cocoon coat is easy to create.

Building a pattern

The details of the front and back canvas are almost identical, the difference is only in the depth of the neck, and also in the fact that the front should consist of two halves and have allowances for the design of the fastener. The drawing is based on a right angle built from two right angles, where the vertical is equal to the length of the product, and the horizontal is equal to half the girth of the neck + shoulder width + sleeve length. Next, auxiliary straight lines should be drawn: the chest line, which is laid off from the top of the vertical angle in accordance with the measurement of “chest height”, the waist line according to the measurement of “front length to waist”, as well as the hip line (below the waist by 20 cm).

Next, you can start building the sleeve. In the place where the measurement of the length of the shoulder ends, you should retreat down from the straight line by about 4 cm and lay a new line, continuing it in accordance with the measurement of the “sleeve length”. After at a right angle on the edge of this straight line, you need to lower by 10-15 cm, depending on the desired sleeve width and wrist thickness. Next, you should connect the line of the chest and the line of the bottom of the sleeve, making a rounding in the armpit. After that, it remains to determine what the narrowing of the product should be from top to bottom, and continue the existing line of the sleeve with a side seam through the lines of the hips to the bottom. Everything is ready. It remains to add details, and you can start sewing.

pattern modeling

Elements such as fasteners, pockets, darts, embossed seams, collar and cuffs are details that are indicated on the main pattern during the modeling process. Without them, products would be boring and monotonous. With the help of these elements, you can correctly place accents and create just the perfect image. The pattern of the cocoon coat itself is so original that sometimes it is minimalism that gives things a special charm. However, you can experiment with a fastener, sleeve length, collar option and pockets. Modeling a cocoon coat is one of the interesting stages, as when working, a simple pattern turns into a unique thing.

Cutting and assembly

After the template has been prepared from the film, you can transfer it to the fabric and start cutting. Here you should remember about seam allowances of about 1-1.5 cm, depending on the type of fabric. It will also be necessary to draw lines parallel to the edge of the pattern along the neckline and front cut at a distance of about 5-7 cm - these will be the selections of the product, they are cut out separately from the main fabric with the same seam allowances as the rest of the details.

The assembly of the main elements of the coat is not difficult, but with the pockets you will have to tinker a bit. If there is absolutely no experience in tailoring, then it is better to make pockets in the side seams. They should be issued before assembling all parts of the coat. When the preparatory work with the pockets is completed, you can start sewing. First, the parts are sewn along the shoulder seams, which pass into the seams of the sleeves. After the shoulder seams are sewn on the details of the pick-ups and this element is connected to the main canvas of the coat.

With a knitted product it is much easier. Details in the knitting process are adjusted to the size of the template, and after they are ready, they are simply sewn together. If the plans include a product with a lining, then it will be necessary to knit additional selections corresponding to the pattern. Pockets should be treated in the same way as when sewing. One piece should be knitted, and the other - cut out of

Pocket design

To make a pocket, you need to cut out two parts according to the pattern of the outlined hand from the wrist to the fingertips from and lining. Next, sew the lining to the side seam at the level of the hips on the front half of the coat, and the blank from the back. This is done so that the lining is not visible when entering the pocket. After that, the details of the coat are aligned along the side seam and connected with a straight line. The pocket halves are also ground and steamed with an iron.

A knitted cocoon coat with pockets in the seams is made according to the same principle.

Working with lining

In order to make a lining, you must first cut out the details according to the prepared templates. It is worth noting that the patterns should be without picks. Here, you should also take into account seam allowances of about 1 cm. There is little work with the lining. First close the shoulder and sleeve seams, then move on to the side seams. Next, the lining is sewn to the selection. The final stage is the hem of the product and the stitching of the details of the sleeves of the main and lining fabrics.

Knowing about the pattern of which is given in this article, you can save a decent amount of money, because this thing is in trend today, and you will have to pay a lot for it in the store.

Hello dear needlewomen!
The final part of the master class on sewing a winter coat, I suggest you look at the sewing process itself and the final result.

In the last publication, we already stitched the sleeves and collar and stitched the picks. We tried on the coat, made changes, making a fit, and now we can safely start sewing the lining.
So that the coat can be worn in cold weather, we will insulate it. To do this, we need insulation, lining fabric, matching and contrasting threads, as well as tools.

What heater to choose? Depends on your desire and possibilities. Insulators are synthetic, wool-containing, quilted and ordinary non-woven fabrics. I opted for a black woolen coat, which is 50% wool.

The insulation itself is light and thin, but at the same time warm enough. Insulation consumption depends on how many layers of insulation you want to make. The consumption of one layer of insulation will be from 1 meter, taking into account its width of 2.2 m.

We will need the lining fabric for the lining itself and for the insulation stitch, and if you are new to this business, it is better to use two different fabrics to make it easier to navigate. The consumption of fabric for stitching will be from 1.5 m, for the lining itself - from 1.5 m. If you have quilted insulation, then you will only need fabric for the lining.
Let's start our work by adjusting paper patterns. If you changed something in a product from the main fabric, then be sure to make all these changes on paper patterns. Additionally, at the back pattern, we need to cut off the neckline, and at the shelf - remove the collar, because the lining is sewn to the hem and collar.

We decant the lining fabric: moisten and iron through the iron.

Let's start cutting the lining for insulation, usually called the basis, so as not to be confused. We fold the fabric in half, equalizing the edges, and apply paper patterns of sleeves, shelves and backs (i.e., you do not need to cut the collar and bands). The share thread should be along all the details.

According to the technology, a soft fold is not laid in the back of the insulation, and if the design allows, then it is better to make the back one-piece. My design allows me to do this, so I put the pattern of the back to the fold of the fabric, while the fold itself will have only a part of the pattern: from the neck to the line of the shoulder blades, below this line a notch begins at the waist, which we will not take into account (i.e. the back will be without a notch at the waist). If your design does not allow you to make a one-piece back, then two parts of the back are cut without a soft fold.

We trace paper patterns and make allowances of 1.5 cm, and 4 cm along the lower sections.
Now we lay out the insulation without stretching it on the surface. We impose patterns of the base so that the insulation does not reach the lower cuts by the amount of hem of the bottom of the coat (in my case, the allowance for the lower cuts is 4cm, which means the hem will be 8cm, so the insulation should not reach the bottom cut of the base by 8cm).

We sew the insulation to the base: we sweep and lay lines on the typewriter along the contour of all parts, stepping back 1.2 cm from the edge.

We cut out the insulation from the allowances.

From the side of the base, we will draw squares of 8 cm. We cut off each square with pins so that the insulation does not pull back while working on the typewriter.

We sew on a typewriter along the marked squares.

And here's what we got from the front and back sides.

In the same way, we quilt the rest of the details.

The insulation must be quilted so that it is evenly distributed, and over time it does not tear or clump.

Prepare strips of fabric 8 cm long and 3 cm wide. We will need these strips to attach the lining to the base.

Let's start assembling the base with insulation. In the side seams of the front and back we put our strips at the level of the chest, waist and hips. The middle of the strips should run along the seam line. We sweep the side cuts,

We sew on a typewriter, and we sew the allowances, while the strips of fabric should not fall into the seams of the stitching.

We also put strips into the elbow seams of the sleeves, sweep the seams,

We grind them on a typewriter and waste allowances.

We sweep the front sections of the sleeves

And we grind, we waste the allowances. It is difficult to do this, but it is possible. If you want to turn the lining through the sleeve, then you need to leave a hole in the front section, but I turned the lining inside out in a different way.

As a result, we got three details: two sleeves and a back stitched along the side seams with shelf details.

Let's move on to lining. Fold the fabric in half, right side inward, leveling the edges of the fabric. And we impose paper patterns of sleeves, shelves and backs. Share the thread for all the details pass along.

We circle the patterns, make allowances of 1.5 cm, along the lower sections - 4 cm, along the middle seam of the back, the allowance will be 3 cm (to form a soft fold). I remind you that if a slot is conceived in your style, then it is much more convenient if this slot is built on a paper pattern. I built a slot already on the fabric itself. Allowances on the slot will be 1.5 cm. We cut out the details.

Slots are processed in several ways, I suggest using the following method: on the lining of the back, a slot is cut off from the side on which the slot in the coat itself is ironed, with the addition of allowances (see fig.)

Since we have the slot ironed on the right side, we will cut off the slot from the right part of the back of the lining. From the wrong side, this detail will be on our left hand. On this part, to the fold of the slots, we impose a paper pattern of the back so that the slot of the paper pattern looks at the side seam of the back of the lining. We circle the slot and add allowances of 1.5 cm to the right side of the slot contour and cut the fabric. Here's what we should get (in the photo, the wrong side of the lining)

We fold the details of the back with the right side inward and sweep the middle seam to the slots, laying a soft fold. It can be done immediately at the neck (we sweep away, stepping back from the cut 1 cm), or make a fold from the line of the shoulder blades (i.e., to the line of the shoulder blades, we sweep along the contour, stepping back from the cut 3 cm, below the line of the shoulder blades we sweep, stepping back 1 cm). Before reaching the slots a few centimeters, the soft fold ends, i.e., we sweep the middle cut to the slots, stepping back from the edge of 3 cm.

We sew on a typewriter and iron the seam.

Large allowances can be cut off, and trimmed at the corners of the crease.

We iron the allowances of the middle seam, and iron the soft fold to one side.

Now we sweep and grind the upper cut of the slots, not reaching the allowances of the side cuts of the slots. Let's notch the allowance to the point of the beginning of the splines, and iron the allowance up.

This is what the back of the lining looks like from the front.

We sweep the side sections of the back and shelves.

We grind and iron the allowances on the shelf.

We connect the parts of the base and lining, folding the parts so that the insulation is inside. Align the details in the middle of the back and side seams, cleave with pins. We pin the strips that we sewed into the side seams of the base to the allowances of the corresponding seams of the lining, leaving 1-1.5 cm free, and attach them.

We sweep the lining and the base along the cuts of the shelves, neck, armholes and shoulder cuts. We grind in one line, stepping back from the edge of 1.3 cm and leaving only the lower cut unstitched.

Here's what we got.

Since we have a one-piece base with insulation, we will make a cut for the slots. To do this, we first take the allowances for the slots of the lining to the base. And from the side of the lining, we will see where the cut needs to be made.

We cut out the insulation to the size of the hem of the slots on the side on which the slot in the coat is ironed, that is, on the right side (on the wrong side to the left of us).

We will attach the allowances for the lining slots to the base, while the base detail will not be pulled together in the slot area, because when cutting the back of the base, we did not take into account the notch at the waist.

We sweep away the shoulder sections, grind, and iron the allowances.

We turn to the processing of the sleeves of the lining. We sweep away the elbow sections.

We stitch and iron the allowances on the upper part of the sleeve (attention! I did not iron it correctly)

We sweep and stitch the front sections of the sleeves (do not forget to leave a hole if you are going to turn the product through the sleeve),

We also iron the allowances on the upper part of the sleeve.

We combine the sleeves with insulation and lining along the elbow seams from the wrong side and attach the sewn-in strips of fabric to the allowances of the corresponding seams.

We connect the sleeves of the base and lining so that the insulation is inside. We sweep the okats and grind, stepping back from the cut 1.3 cm.

Before sewing in the sleeves, we will attach the upper rim, laying a double line without bartacks with the largest possible stitches. We pull the threads of the lines so that the length of the sleeves is equal to the length of the armhole.

We sweep in the sleeves, while the allowances for the armhole and okat should be from the side of the base, i.e. the base will be considered the wrong side.

We lay the stitching line from the side of the sleeve, straightening the folds under the foot of the machine.

Our insulated lining is ready!

We sewed the lining, insulated it with wool, and the base of the coat is already ready: the sleeves and collar are sewn in and the picks are sewn to the details of the shelf, now we just have to connect the coat with the lining.
We start joining with the sleeves. If your sleeves are the length you need, and you did not sew on the facing, as I did, then the allowances along the lower sections of the sleeves must first be ironed on the wrong side (the allowances along the fold line must be cut for a thinner edge, then I will show how to do this). The lower sections of the sleeves must be additionally strengthened with an adhesive dolevik. Now, for convenience, we will turn the coat and lining inside out (remember that the quilted side is considered to be the wrong side of the lining). We fold the bottom of the lining and the bottom of the sleeve with the right sides inward, combining the elbow and front seams, and we sweep the allowances with the right side inward, stepping back from the edge of 1 cm.

We sew a seam 1 cm wide from the side of the lining. Then turn the lining right side out, forming a small soft fold along the bottom of the sleeve.

If you have a piping sewn along the lower sections of the sleeves (like mine), then now on the front side of the coat we baste the seam of the piping, forming a small roll inside the sleeve. You can also baste the top cut of the facing.

We iron the sleeve on a special roller through the iron. We manually sew the strips to the allowances of the elbow seams, which we sewed into the sleeves with insulation, leaving 1-1.5 cm free.

We connect the lining of the back with the facing of the neck, combining the middle of the facing and the lining, and we cut it off with pins, starting from the middle to the left side, then to the right.

We sweep the lining along the facing, starting from the middle and stitch from the side of the lining with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm. We iron the allowances onto the lining, beforehand, the lining allowances must be notched with a corner, since the cut of the lining is curved.

This is what we should get from the front side of the lining.

We tuck the lining of the front to the cut of the selection, combining the cuts, we will make a small landing in the chest area.

We sew from the side of the lining, with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm. We iron the allowances on the lining.

Let's start processing slots. But first, we must decide what kind of lining we want: fly-away (not fixed along the bottom cut) or closed (attached to the hem of the coat). In the event that you have chosen a detachable lining, then before processing the slots, you need to iron the hem, and hem the lower cut of the lining.

I chose a closed lining, so the bottom sections of the lining and coat are not processed at this stage.
So, we combine the middle and side seams of the lining and coat, we cut them off with pins.

We connect the left and right parts of the slots with the lining, sweeping the allowances.

To make it clearer to you how the lining is attached to the slot of the coat, I drew a diagram

This is what the basted lining to the slot looks like from the front side.

We grind the allowances for the slots from the side of the lining. There are slots on the left side, on the front side, the lining can be delayed, but I did not do this. On the right side, we iron the allowances on the lining, and on the left side we sweep out the stitching seam, forming a roll to the side of the lining and ironing the seam.

We have such a slot.

We iron the hem of the coat with a width of 4 cm, it can be pre-basted.

Cut out the allowances of the side seams along the hem line with a corner, and on the hem itself, cut the width of the allowance to 0.5 cm from the line of the side seam. Thus, we will remove the thickness in the side seams along the bottom line.

(In the same way, allowances are cut out on the hem of the sleeves during their processing).

According to the technology, there should be 2-3 cm between the bottom of the main product and the bent lining, the lining can be stabbed beforehand.

Turn our coat inside out. We connect the front sides of the hem and the bottom of the lining. We sweep along the oblique, starting from the stitching seam of the hem and from the hem fold line and not reaching the 1 cm hem cut,

We connect the second part of the bottom of the coat in the same way.

We sew from the side of the lining, while leaving a small area not stitched, so that later we can turn our product on the front side.

Excess lining allowances can be trimmed. And we cut the allowances on the corners of the headboards and the corners of the slots close to the line.

Turn our coat right side out. And here is how the pick and hem slots look like when sewing along an oblique line.

Now the strips that we sewed to the armhole allowances of the coat, we will sew by hand to the armhole allowances of the lining, leaving 1-1.5 cm free. And the strips that we sewed into the side seams of the lining with insulation - to the allowances of the corresponding seams on the coat itself.

Sew the lining by hand to the hem in the place where we left the hole.

We sweep out the corners of the headboards and the corners of the slots.

We just need to sew on the buttons. In addition to the main buttons, we need additional small buttons, preferably transparent, matching and contrasting threads, as well as tools.

The double-breasted product is distinguished by a wide side and buttons arranged in two rows: one row of buttons, on which the coat is fastened, are located on one part of the shelf, and the second row for symmetry is on the other part of the shelf. In this case, the buttonholes are not located on the line of the middle of the shelf, but at the front cut at a distance equal to the diameter of the button. Therefore, to begin with, we will measure the diameter of our button (in my case, 2.8 cm). And on the right part of the shelf we draw a straight line, stepping back from the front cut 2.8 cm.

From this straight line, we outline loops with a length equal to the diameter of the button plus 3-5mm. The loops in the coat are placed horizontally.

On the left side of the shelf, we outline a loop symmetrical to the upper loop on the right shelf, but with a diameter equal to a small button plus 3-5mm. It is better to extend the loop lines so that when working on a typewriter they can be seen under the foot.

We sew loops on a typewriter.

If desired, the buttonholes can be overcast by hand if you want to make tailor's buttonholes.
We combine the line of the middle of the parts of the shelf, align with the lower sections and cut off or sweep both parts along the line of the middle. Now, in the slots of the loops, we put chalk marks on the second part of the shelf.

And already on the left part of the shelf we will put chalk marks, applying a ruler parallel to the front cut.

A button is sewn at the point of intersection of the marks. We will sew on buttons, forming a leg from threads, and strengthen from the side of the hem with a transparent button.

On the right part of the shelf, we sew the buttons symmetrically, strengthening them from the wrong side with transparent buttons.

For the buttons on the right shelf, you do not need to make thread legs, only for the topmost transparent button, which is located on the side of the pick, we will make a leg. The fact is that we will fasten this button on a small loop that we made on the left shelf, so the edge of the left floor will not sag.

Our coat is done! If desired, you can lay a decorative stitch along the edge of the collar and the front sections of the coat.

We have left hold the WTO. We remove all the lining and basting seams, which we performed with contrasting threads. After sewing the seams, we left traces of threads,

Getting rid of them is very easy. To do this, we slightly moisten the fabric and lift the pile with a soft brush.

And now we steam through the iron.

In the same way, you can get rid of the laying of the seams, which later need to be ironed on a special pillow. The pillow can be replaced with a terry towel (thanks for the advice to our participant Boltushka).

Our coat is ready!

Let's try on the model.

In this image, I think that the hat does not fit, but I can’t take it away from Yana :)

That's all for me! I hope you find my publications useful for your creativity. I wish you success!

Thank you from the bottom of my heart for the most useful and detailed article by the author:

We invite you to look at coat models with patterns, you may like one or more of them, and you decide to replenish your wardrobe with your own creation.
This article is intended for people with at least minimal design skills.

M-1. The coat is everyday.

Classic style coat.

Collar "jacket" type with lapels, as well as a stitched stand. Welt pockets, made with a "tuning" leaflet.
The shoulder girdle is extended, shoulder pads are not used in this model. The finishing line is laid on a collar, 2 sides and lapels.
Velcro fastener (hidden).
We add 3 cm to (Shp) of the shoulder, and Vpkp (height of the oblique front square) - 0.7 cm.
On an okat (Н=0) landing is not provided.

M-2. Coat made without fastening.

Straight, semi-adjacent silhouette. Pockets slanting with "leaflet". The decoration of this modest coat is the original sleeves.
Model(2) was created on the basis of a coat (d/s) with a chest tuck. Model the sleeve as shown in the pattern. The bottom of the sleeves and the neck are processed by turning.

M-3. Coat-dressing gown (one-piece sleeve).

Straight cut, slightly tapered at the bottom. The sleeves are finished with one-piece cuffs. Clasp 2-side. Leaflet pockets shifted to the side.
Before you start sewing the product with a solid. sleeve, it is necessary to properly prepare it with the help of the WTO (ironing). The focus should be on the sleeves. To always navigate where you need to iron the sleeve, and where to iron it out, imagine your hand in a position bent at the elbow.

In this pattern, you can also adjust the length and width of the sleeves you need.

M-4. Coat d / s (demi-season) double-breasted.

Classic 2-breasted coat with an "English" collar. Set-in pockets are hidden in front reliefs. Decorative stitching is laid along the board, embossed seams and collar. In this model, the lining can be made both detachable and stitched.

M-5. Coat d / s (option 2).

A trapezoidal silhouette, sleeves are strongly expanded to a bottom. Clasp 2-side. Pockets - lining sheets, made in embossed seams.
The bottom of the sleeve is decorated with fur. To get a trapezoidal silhouette, you need to add 10 cm to Sat. The bottom of the sleeve will expand by 24 cm.

M-6. Coat d / s (3rd option).

The top of the coat "sits" tightly on the figure, the expansion starts from the hip line. Jacket set-in collar. The middle and embossed seams of the back, the departure of the collar, sides, chest darts and the belt are decorated with stitching. Set-in belt. Coat fastens with 1 button. In the waist line, warehouses are laid down to meet one another. The bottom line is not extended. The sleeves are tapered, 2-sutural. In the presented model, Popv is 1 cm more than Pg. The skid line is standard - 2.5 cm from the edge of the side.

Modeling the printed base:

Set aside 3 cm above and also below the waist line, cut out the resulting area, which we turn (by modeling) into a set-in belt. Why on the shelf you need to close the waist tuck.
We model the chest tuck, bury the waist one.
We outline warehouses, push the base.

M-7. Coat d / s (4 option).

The product tightly fits the silhouette. Stand-collar - overestimated, the neck increases. A sleeve (shirt), to a bottom is expanded. Sleeve length - 7/8.
The set-in belt is decorated with many stitching. If desired, the belt can be made from fabric of a different color. The coat fastens with a zipper.
The model was created on the basis of a long-sleeved coat with a stand and a /shirt/ sleeve cut.

We make changes:

Add 3 cm to Ssh.
The shoulder should be narrowed to such an extent that the back armhole is vertical.
We close the waist tuck and chest, we transfer everything to the chest side.
We shorten the collar by a width equal to the bar. Expansion on the departure of the gate - 10 cm.
Half skid is not required.

M-8. Coat d / s (5 wt).

Straight cut with (2-breasted) wraparound and long waistband. Pockets are located in relief seams. The collar is made on the raised mouth.
Sleeves are 1-sutural, straight, with one-piece cuffs. The finishing line is laid on the sides, departure, belt, cuffs.
Coat models with patterns built on the basis of a d / s coat can also be used for sewing winter clothes, just do not forget to add extra insulation.
The 8th model was developed on the basis of a d / s coat with a shawl collar and a straight single-seam sleeve.
The "Schalka" collar can be replaced with an "Apache" collar with a stand.

M-9. Coat d / s. (6 in-t).

Semi-fitted, with a zipper. Shelves are asymmetrical. The collar is an overestimated stand, fastened with 2 buttons. On the right shelf at the top there is a framed pocket with a zipper. Side pockets are also framed, but without zippers. The middle seam of the back panel ends with a slot. There is stitching along the collar, yoke and sides.

M-10. Coat d / s, designed for cashmere or other soft fabrics.

Straight cut coat with dropped shoulders. The neckline is expanding. Stand-up collar (15 cm). Sleeves are 1-sutural, expanded, with stitched cuffs-turning. Clasp "supatny". Laid on (with the valve) pockets. To build this foundation, you need to make adjustments to the measurements.
To increase the width of the neckline to Ssh + 9cm, raise the shoulder point by 1 cm. Shorten the Dtp by 1 cm. Increase the Shs and Shg by 1 cm (Sg will increase accordingly), reducing the shoulder tuck by 1 cm, respectively. Add 3 cm to Shp and increase Vpkp by 1 cm. Popv = 20 cm. H = 0 - the sleeve does not fit. Having made all the foreseen changes, we build the foundation. Next, we model (see). We redistribute the chest shoulder tuck into the neck.

M-11. Cashmere d/s coat.

A modern coat with a close-fitting silhouette that flares out at the bottom. Model with a 1-side wrapover and a belt that ties. Invisible pockets in raised seams. Sleeves are three-seam, one-piece. The style is created on the basis of d / s attached. a coat with a "stand" as well as a 1-seam sleeve.

To build, we make changes:

We increase the ssh by 6 cm, expand the neck by 2 cm.
Shoulder raise the back point by 1 cm, lower the shelves by 1 cm.
Dtp is reduced by 1 cm.
The sleeve does not fit. H=0.

The idea of starting to sew outerwear usually scares away beginner needlewomen. It seems incredibly difficult - precisely because you have to build or at least adjust the patterns. But everything is not as bad as it seems. There are a lot of models that will be possible even for those who bought a sewing machine yesterday and just started to master it. Where can I get coat patterns for beginners? Making simple patterns with your own hands is not at all problematic - and some models are sewn without a pattern at all, and look great at the same time. About how such miracles are created, we will tell in our article.

Classical and non-classical

Of course, if we are talking about a classic coat, you can’t do without a pattern. And this is really perhaps the most difficult piece of clothing, only with a men's suit will be more trouble. But there are a lot of models of modern coats that are sewn according to the most primitive patterns. Yes, and sewing clothes without a pattern with your own hands is a fairly common and even popular thing, fortunately, modern fabrics allow this.

What kind of outerwear can you sew by marking directly on the fabric? Not so little:

raincoat coat;
cape coat;
poncho coat;
coat with one-piece sleeves.

The most terrible secret of elegant needlewomen who have already got their hands on such products is that any of these models can be unlined. Agree, the classic style without lining, as well as pickups, welt pockets and similar subtleties, is difficult to imagine. But do-it-yourself outerwear without patterns happens without such designer excesses. Pockets can be as simple as possible, instead of pick-ups, you can make a bar, a collar is not necessary - in a word, the style can be simplified to the limit, and it will look great. Tempting? Then let's get started.

A little about materials

Extremely simple cut and beautiful fabric, which, moreover, is easy to process - these are the two guarantees of future success. It is better to choose a fabric that is double-sided, which does not crumble and holds its shape well. Many modern coat fabrics have these remarkable qualities. Sometimes you come across a very high quality cloth.

Important! For some products, raincoat fabric or canvas is suitable - if, for example, we are talking about a summer coat that you can throw on yourself on a cool evening.

cape coat

Do you want an unusual coat with your own hands? The pattern is done in almost the same way as for a half-sun skirt. A cape coat is something like an old raincoat, only without a hood - instead, you can make a stand-up collar from natural or faux fur. Or you can not do it, options with a neckline are now in great fashion. The length can be any - mini, knee-length or even to the floor. And nothing prevents you from making a double cape - the main one and something like a cape.

Important! If you are afraid to ruin the fabric, make a pattern on paper first. True, the sheet will need a very large one, since the entire coat is cut in one piece. You can glue several pieces of graph paper, for example, or even old newspapers. In general, if there are remnants of wide wallpaper, it will be very good. And, of course, it is better to cut on the floor in a spacious room.

But if you build directly on the fabric, many inconveniences can be avoided. To make a pattern you will need:

pencil;
long line;
compass;
button;
lace.

Important! If it is possible to make or get a large compass, you can do without a lace with a button.

What should we build a pattern?

In order to make a simple coat pattern for beginners, you only need to know two measurements:

neck girth;
product length.

As for the amount of fabric, if the length of the coat is less than the width of the cut, you will need 2 lengths, and if more - at least 3. You still need to leave a strip for the collar and bottom processing, if required:

Spread the sheet on the floor or a large table.
Draw a straight line - its length should be slightly more than twice the length of the product.
Find the middle of this line.
Draw a semicircle from the middle, the radius of which is equal to the length of the product - that's what you need a cord, a pencil and a button for: a pencil is tied to the cord, on the other side of the cord this whole structure is pinned to the center, and the length of the rope should be equal to the length of the product.
Draw a perpendicular from the middle of the line to the edge. On it you need to set aside the girth of the neck, divided by 6.28, or an arbitrary value, but such that the notch fits your neck not too tightly, but not too loose.
From this point, draw a circle with a radius equal to this measure.
Cut out the pattern along the contours - you should have a half ring.
You can make cuts for the hands - this is done by eye, already on the fabric.

We sew a cape coat

For this model, double-sided fabric is just perfect. You will receive two capes at once, because your product can be worn on both sides - if, of course, you can arrange everything neatly. In addition to fabric and the most common sewing supplies, you will need:

edging or braid for processing slots and bottom;
several buttons (maybe one large);
strip of fur or edging for the neck.

Important! In sewing stores you will find piping of various types, but nothing prevents you from making it yourself from non-shrinking fabric, suitable in texture and color. Basically, it's just a tape with edges.

Such an unconventional coat is sewn literally in no time. The most important thing in this story is to make cuts beautifully. They should be even, slightly oblique and symmetrical. It is done like this:

If you cut out a paper pattern, circle it on the fabric, positioning it so that the cut of the cape goes along the edges.
Cut out the piece.
Try on the future coat by chipping the neck with a safety pin.
See where it is more convenient to make cuts, mark them.
Remove the coat, spread out and adjust the position of the slits.
Cut the lines (preferably with a blade or a sharp knife, scissors are not very suitable).
Fold the piping in half and bast to the fastener lines, putting the edge of the fabric between the layers of the piping - if the coat will only have one button, of course.
Attach a piping.
Finish the bottom the same way.
Slots are also made in the same way, only you need to do it as carefully as possible, paying special attention to the corners.

Collar

The last stage is the collar and clasp. You can, of course, do without a collar, and decorate the top with an undercut or a drawstring. But if you like the stand better, do this:

We draw a strip on paper, the length of which is equal to the girth of the neck, and the width is equal to the height of the collar, while on the sheet there should be free space on both sides of the strip.
We divide the strip in half along the length, draw a line perpendicular to the long sides - this line will be located on the back of the head, it can be designated as Z1 and Z2 (Z1 - above, Z2 - below).
We also divide each half in half and draw two more perpendiculars to the edges.
We determine where your collar will have the top, and where the bottom - you can make notes B and H.
From the point Z1 and Z2 we set aside 1 cm towards the bottom.
From the lines dividing the halves of the collar in half, set aside 0.5 cm upwards.
We connect in pairs the points on the occipital line and the lateral ones with smooth curves.
We cut out a strip with new lines, transfer it to the fur, not forgetting to leave small allowances.

Important! It is best to cut such a faux fur collar - it is softer, easy to cut and no special tools are needed for sewing, but you need to cut any fur with short scissors so as not to damage the pile.

We sew the faux fur collar on the wrong side, then turn it inside out, paying particular attention to the corners. We fold the allowances inward and sew it all to the top of the cape coat, inserting the edge of the neckline between the layers of the collar. We sew on a large button on one side, on the other - we make a wide decorative loop (you can use the piping with which you made the cuts).

cloak coat

This type of outerwear very much resembles an officer's cape. Ideal for fans of military style, but according to the same scheme, you can make a very interesting and very feminine little thing. It is cut and sewn in almost the same way as a cape coat, but instead of a collar, a hood is made (you can sew it so that it fastens with a zipper and, if necessary, turns into a collar). And such a coat is made on a long clasp. But, since the width of the main part is large, no additional stripes need to be sewn. It is enough to bend the bar to a width of 0.5 and 3 cm on the wrong side, iron and stitch.

The hood is sewn from the same fabric, it can be lined - for example, faux fur, but this is not necessary. The pattern is made on the basis of a rectangle:

Build this geometric figure, taking as a basis the distance from the base of the neck to the crown of the head and adding 5-6 cm to it. The other side is the girth of the head, divided in half.
Determine which side the face will be on - mark this side with points L1 and L2.
Designate the back of the head Z1 and Z2, while the points L1 and Z1 should be on top.
Continue the line L1-Z1 towards the face by 5 cm, put the point L3 and connect it with a straight line to the point L2.
From point Z2, lay down 2 cm.
Connect this new point with point L2 with a smooth arc.

It is better to decorate the cutouts for the hands with stripes with decorative stitching, in much the same way as it is done when sewing clothes with welt pockets - only burlap is not made. The coat is sewn in the same order as the previous one.

Important! Such a coat can be cut out on a sleeveless polyethylene raincoat.

What else will we sew?

And what else can be sewn according to the most primitive patterns, and even without them at all? Yes, whatever. And the most exciting activity is homemade clothes with your own hands. Simple patterns for robes are made in the same way as for some not quite classic coats. Let's try?

No, it will not be a cape or a raincoat, but a one-piece product - you can sew both outerwear and what you wear at home using the same pattern. For example, a free terry dressing gown. We take measurements, they are quite ordinary:

hip girth:
sleeve length;
product length.

After that, we start cutting:

We lay out the fabric in 2 layers, folding along the shared thread.
We cut out a rectangle for the back - it will be solid, and the fold in this case coincides with its middle line. The width of half of the back is equal to the half-girth of the hips, divided in half. To this measure, you can add another 3-5 centimeters, and the length is the same as that of the finished product.
In free places, we cut out 2 shelves by the same standards, only to the middle of the front we need to add another strip 10 cm wide for the clasp.
The blanks for the sleeves are also rectangles, the width is arbitrary, but not less than the distance from the shoulder to the armpit, and if you want to make wide cuffs wrapped up, you need to add another 6-10 centimeters.
On the back and shelves, mark the length of the shoulder seams - it should be the same.
On the same details, mark the bottom of the armhole, the points will need to match when you sew the side seams.
You will arrange the rest after the main parts are assembled.

We sew a bathrobe

The first thing to do is stitch the shoulder seams. You will get a blank on which you will model everything else:

Baste the sleeves, sew them on.
Topstitch both side seams while sewing the seams of the sleeves as well.
Try what you got.
Fold the neck to make it comfortable - you can stab the allowances with tailor's pins.
The neck should smoothly transition into the bar.
Bend the bar twice, also chip off on one and on the other field, leaving open the areas adjacent to the neck.
See what happens, align all the folds.
Cut the neckline along the cleavage line.
Cut out an undercut piece from the same fabric or another - thin, but well-shaped.
Fold the hem and the main neck with the right sides to each other - all the cuts should match.
Sew around the neckline.
Turn the hem piece to the wrong side, iron.
Bend it, stitch it - or, if it is possible to overcast, you can not fold it so that the seam is not too thick.
Attach planks.

After that, it remains only to sew on the buttons and make loops, as well as hem the bottom. Sleeves can be folded up, folded over, sewn with a decorative stitch.

Important! You can sew a coat in exactly the same way, it will be even easier. There are several options for processing the edge - for example, if the fabric is very dense and does not crumble at all, you can not hem or overcast the details, but cut them with curly scissors.

footage

Hello. Sewing a coat is a big undertaking, but quite doable. It's easier than assembling a hadron collider, and many women are capable of it, I'm sure, they just don't need it. And you always need a new coat. And I will try to help you with this.

I collect here all the stages of creating a coat, plus step-by-step instructions on how to sew a coat with your own hands.

Initially, I wanted a coat with reliefs from the shoulder, but I bought the fabric and everything was changed. This is the pattern that popped up in my head. More precisely, it was drawn on paper, it was more beautiful in my head.

After going through all the stages of creating a coat:

I sewed such a short coat for the spring. Suit fabric, 70% wool. Coat at the time of shooting without buttons, cleaved with pins. Photographed on March 8, shops will open in 3 days, what to do.

So, we cut out the details from the fabric.

The shelf is completely duplicated. All constructive lines are applied to the dublerin;

duplicate the back top and bottom;

neckline and pick-up;

sleeve collar;

we duplicate the details of the collar completely.

As well as all the small details that are in the design.

Sewing

Collecting the top

We collect a shelf from composite parts. We iron out the allowances.

If the fabric does not lend itself well to sutyuzhka and the allowances “pull” on the roundings, they need to be cut. Then we iron the allowances in one direction, cut it and attach it with a decorative stitch close to the seam.

Pockets

We assemble the back

Overcast the allowances of the side seams (and on the shelf too). My fabric is loose and I also swept over the allowances of the middle seam. If there are reliefs to the bottom, it is also better to overcast from them.

Collar

If the fabric is jacket, does not lend itself to landing, then both the lower and upper collars are the same on the stand (lower in the figure). If natural fibers are present in the fabric, then the lower collar can be made in one piece.

Sew the details of the collar. We iron out the allowances. We sew the allowances of the stand and collar close to the seam, fixing them in this position.

We connect the side seams

Shoulder seams

Sew on the collar

Sew on the sleeve

We collect the lining

Hanger: cut out a strip of 32 mm by 10 cm. Iron the edges inward and then in half, stitch along the edge, fold with a hanger and tack to the middle of the facing of the neck of the back.
We connect the back of the lining with the facing of the neck of the back. We iron the allowances on the turning.

I have a crease on the top of the lining. It is done for freedom, just the middle fold on top deviates by a couple of cm, and the bottom remains as wide as it was.

We build tucks on the shelf. Or reliefs, in general, what we have is what we connect.
We connect the side seams and overcast.

We turn the bottom of the lining twice and lay a line (into a hem with a closed cut).

The length of the lining according to the pattern is the same as the coat. Therefore, you need to tuck in half a cm more than a coat. For example, a 4 cm hem is laid on the coat, we tuck the lining by 4.5 cm.

We sharpen the selection

You can make stitching allowances to fix this position of the lining.

Shoulder seams

Sew on the collar

Sew on the sleeves

Joining the top and lining

We chop off the lining with the top along the lines of the bands and the collar face to face. Carefully cut out the allowances on the collar. We make sure that the collar converges exactly.

We lay the connecting line. We cut allowances on the corners.

We twist, straighten, iron.

Sew the lining to the sleeves.

To properly sew, you can pin the lining with needles as it should be.

Then unscrew, chop, align the seams and sew.

The sleeve hem can be fastened through with a machine stitch, or with blind stitches, or simply along the seam of the sleeve a couple of cm from the bottom.

We turn off the pick, pin the allowances as in the photo and sew at the height of the bottom allowance (as I mentioned above - I have 4 cm).

We twist, we iron.
Now the bottom of the coat can be overcast and tucked. You can hem with blind stitches or machine stitch through. Hemming should be started a little further than the selection ends, so as not to hook the lining.

We turn the coat inside out and sew the neck allowances of the lining and the coat, firmly fastening the collar.