Sewing a women's coat. Coat patterns for beginners - simple do-it-yourself patterns

For several days I went to the site and admired it, looking at it carefully. And suddenly it dawned on me! Well, how simple it is! One-piece sleeves, no darts, the silhouette is not fitted, the collar is kind of simple, but to sew such a coat like two fingers, as they say :) And I got the idea to try to sew something like that.

True, I wanted the collar a little less, and I found several more options for a similar coat with a smaller collar. That's when I decided to make my own coat.

But first, I needed to practice. And as always, my younger sister Yana became the "guinea pig".

And so, dear readers, I suggest you look at the process of creating the first coat I sewed. I will try to explain in detail the progress of the work in a more accessible language, since in my past publications many considered the sewing process to be very difficult due to sewing terminology. Therefore, I ask professional seamstresses not to judge strictly my style of presentation.

Fabric choice
Naturally, any sewing work begins with the choice of fabric. What is the best fabric for a coat? Yes, any coat fabric is drape, tweed, cashmere, boucle, etc. But it is for such a coat that the best fabric will be double-sided. With such a fabric, you do not need to sew on a lining, and this will facilitate the work process.
In our small town, of the proposed coat fabrics, I did not like anything. And I opted for textured knitwear with the addition of wool. The fabric is very thick and nice color.

For knitted fabric, we need a knitted doubler and a knitted lining fabric, the latter was not in our stores, and I had to buy a regular one.

And so, for everything about everything we need: a 2.5m polt fabric, a 2m lining, a 1m dublerin, matching and contrasting threads, and tools: a needle, pins, a ruler, scissors, a crayon or a pencil, well, a sewing machine.

Cutting fabric

Since the coat is quite a big thing and the pattern will require a lot of paper, so I suggest building all the patterns straight from the fabric.
Back
To build the back, we need only two measurements - the volume of the hips (90cm) and the desired length of the future coat (105cm), I wanted a length just below the knees.
First, fold the fabric in half, right side inward.

Stepping back a little from the top, from the edge of the fold to the right, set aside 1/4 of the volume of the hips + 2.5 cm for a free fit: 90/4 + 2.5 = 25 cm. And down along the edge of the fold, we will set aside the length of the product + 5cm to hem the bottom of the coat: 105 + 5 = 110cm. And draw a rectangle with sides 25 and 110cm. Set aside 10 cm from the upper right corner of the rectangle to the right, and 30 cm down. And again we will complete the rectangle with sides 10 and 30cm. This rectangle is our future one-piece sleeve, so its width and length can be changed if you want a narrower sleeve.

Then we draw the neck, from which we draw a lowered shoulder at a slight angle. With a smooth line we connect the sleeve with the side line. And the back is done!

Now cut out the back, adding 1 cm to the allowances.

Shelf and lapel
Now we need a measurement of the neck, which we built on the back, I got it 9cm. Fold the fabric in half again, right side inward. On top of the fabric, we retreat about 20-30 cm, put our back on the fabric and circle it. Add 15cm to the front cut. We need these 15 cm so that the coat can be wrapped. And we draw a cut line to the very end of the fabric (blue in the figure)

Let's move on to the construction of the collar and lapel. But first, let's figure out what is a lapel? And this is just a lapel of the fabric of a fur coat, most often this lapel on the chest.

1) And so, extend the shoulder cut towards the neckline by 2 cm - this will be the height of the collar stand. And put a point T at the end of this line.
2) Now on the front cut (blue line) put the point M. This point can be chosen as you wish, depending on where you want the future coat to connect along the front cut. I chose a point just above the chest.
3) Then we draw a line through our points M and T. This line will be the lapel fold line.
4) Denote the point of intersection of the neck and shoulder cut with the letter O
5) From point O up we will draw a line parallel to our lapel fold line
6) Set aside from point O our neck measurement - 9cm, and put point C.
7) Now from point O we draw an arc with radius OS (9cm)
8) And on this arc from point C to the right, set aside the height of our rack - 2 cm and put point C1
9) Connect the points O and C1 with a line with a slight deflection
10) Now let's build a perpendicular to our line OS1
11) And set aside the desired collar width on the perpendicular, I wished for a collar 10cm wide
12) We connect our perpendicular (10cm) and the front cut with a smooth line. Here, of course, you can model and make the lapel wider or longer, it all depends on your desire.
Well, our lapel is ready!

And the shelf pattern looks like this.

We cut out the shelf, do not forget about the seam allowances, and we should get two parts.

Pickup
We need a pick-up to process the incision in front. You can, of course, make a one-piece selection by adding another 10-20 centimeters to the front cut when cutting the shelves. But if the width of the fabric does not allow this, then the selection is cut separately. That's exactly what I did.
Again, fold our fabric with the right side inward, put a shelf on the fabric and circle the front cut, lapel, collar and a small part of the shoulder cut (although you can do without it, if desired). At the bottom, the width of our selection will be 15 cm, and from the fold line of the faceplate, the selection expands, so we will connect the cut of the selection with a shoulder with a smooth line. Our pick is ready!

Cut out with seam allowances, and again we get two parts.

Sleeves
To build a sleeve, we need three measurements: the length of the sleeve, which we measure on ourselves (53cm), the length of the armhole, which we can measure at the front or at the back, since they are equal (21cm) and the length of the one-piece sleeve, which we also we can measure at the shelf or back (20cm). The sleeve pattern will also depend on your desire: straight or tapering, with a cuff or with a slot. My sister asked for sleeves with rolled cuffs, so I will describe the cutting of just such a sleeve.
Fold the fabric in half, right side inward. From the fold line to the right, set aside the length of our armhole - 21cm. Lay down the length of the sleeve along the fold line minus the length of the one-piece sleeve and plus the length of the cuff: 53 - 20 + 14 = 47 cm (cuff length of your choice). On the bottom from the fold line to the right, set aside 16cm. Thus, we have built a tapering sleeve.

Cut out sleeves with 1cm seam allowances. Now let's cut the cuffs. Again, fold the fabric with the right side inward, put our sleeve on the fabric and circle it along the bottom, and set aside the height of the cuff 14 cm, cut it out. And so, we got two sleeves and two cuffs.

Lining
We fold the lining fabric in four layers, right side inward.

We put the back on the fabric and circle.

Cut out the pattern with 1.5cm seam allowances. We received two parts, one of which we cut along the front cut. As a result, we got three details.

Now fold the lining fabric in half, right side inward, and circle our sleeve. And cut out again, adding 1.5 cm to the allowances. Thus, we got two sleeves for lining.

dublerin
We fold the dublerin in half, with the adhesive surface inward, put our selection, circle and cut it out.

Again, we fold the doubler in half, put a pick, circle it, and along the bottom add a strip the width of our shelf and a height of about 5-10 cm and cut it out. This dublerin is glued to the shelf. And for the back we cut out a strip of dublerin with a width equal to the width of the back and a height of 5-10 cm.

Now we will glue it with doublerin, after moistening it (if it is not interlining)

Back bottom

Front cuts and bottom of shelves

And rebounds

Well, the hardest part is over! Now we have to sew all the details.

And first of all, we will sew the pick-ups and shelves along the cut on the collar.

We will perform all seams in three stages: 1 - chipping with pins, 2 - manual basting, 3 - laying seams on a typewriter. Since the coat is a rather complex garment, and the fabric to be sewn is quite heavy, therefore, we need the first two stages for more accurate stitching of parts. And so, having sewn the collars and shelves along the cut on the collar, we iron the seams.

Now we connect the pick-ups and shelves along the front sections, combining their middles. That is, we fold the parts with the front side to each other so that the seam on the collar of the selection is aligned with the seam of the shelf, and already from the middle we cut off and sew by hand.

Trim the corners of the seam allowances and turn right side out. How to iron our product. You can even overcast the product before ironing, so that the fabric is turned out to the end, and then iron, cut off the basting and iron again. As a result, we got such a collar,

passing into the shelves, to which the pick-ups are sewn along the front cut.

And now we will connect the shelves and the back along the shoulder seams and the neck, combining the details in the middle. To the neck of the back, we first sew a collar, which refers to the shelves,

And we sew the shoulder seams, which we iron out.

Now we sew the upper collar to the neck of the back, which is part of the rebounds. Again we combine the parts in the middle.

We will lay the seam directly along the seam that we made when we sewed the lower collar (part of the shelves) with the neck of the back. And iron the seam to the bottom of the product.

Connecting the lining to the coat

Before the village, I did not have to connect the lining with such a complex product, so I turned to the Internet for help. There I found several ways of this process, and chose the best option, which I will describe to you, dear fashionistas.
First, fold the shelves and the back of the lining right side inward.
and sew the shoulder seams, which are ironed out.

Then we lay the back of the lining with the wrong side to the wrong side of the back of the coat in such a way that all sections of the back of the coat are closed with a lining, aligning from the neckline, aligning the middle and shoulder seams of the parts.

Similarly, with the shelves: we combine the shoulder seams from the neck; the cuts of the coat shelf should be hidden by the lining. Put the pick on the lining and circle it along the cut.

Now on the lining we draw a line parallel to this cut, stepping back towards the front cut 2.5 cm, and cut off the excess lining fabric.

On the wrong side, we combine the sections of the selection and lining and sew along the entire length, stepping back from the edge of 1 cm.

Iron the seam towards the lining.

We turn the shelf of the coat over to the front side, cut off the excess lining along the sections of the shelf, leaving 0.5 cm each.

We perform all the same actions with the second shelf. As a result, here is what we got.

Now we sew the side seams of the coat on the wrong side, and iron them.

We also sew the side seams of the lining, with only one difference: on one side seam of the lining, we will leave a small area (20-30 cm) not sewn,

That is, we leave a cut that is useful to us for eversion of the product.

We sew the sleeves and cuffs along the elbow sections. We iron the seams.

We turn the sleeves on the front side, and the cuffs - on the wrong side. We sew the cuffs with the sleeves along the bottom with the front sides inward, combining the side seams.

Now turn the cuffs inside out and put them inside the sleeves. The edges can be overcast and then ironed, removed overcast and ironed again.

I want to draw attention to the fact that I did not glue the sleeves with dublerin. I did not do this due to the fact that with doubler the tucked cuffs will be very thick and heavy.
We start sewing the sleeves of the lining, and iron the seams.

Turn sleeves and lining inside out. We sew them with the front sides, combining the side seams.

Having turned the lining inside out, we make a small soft fold near the seam connecting the sleeve and the lining.

When we turn our sleeve right side out, we can cut off the excess lining, leaving 1.5cm.

Now we can sew our sleeves to the coat, sewing only the product itself, connecting the side seams. We can do this through the holes in the sleeves of our lining.

We iron the seams.

And in order to sew the sleeves of the lining to the lining itself, we will have to turn the product inside out. In the same way, we sew by connecting the side seams, and then iron it out.

We turn our product inside out and get such a beautiful lining sleeve!

While our lining is not yet completely sewn to the coat, we can sew on the pockets. But first, we will break them down. Fold the fabric in half, right side inward, and apply a paper pattern, which we outline, adding 1cm seam allowances, and adding 2.5cm on top.
Now we fold the lining fabric together, right side inward, circle our pattern, adding 1 cm on all sides for allowances.

We glue a strip of dublerin 2.5 cm high to the pockets from the main fabric.

We fold the pockets and the lining with the right side inward and on the wrong side we sew the upper cut, stepping back from the edge of 1 cm.

Now we turn it right side out, combining the cuts, and iron our seam towards the lining. We process the edges.

Now on the typewriter we lay the lines in a semicircle, without fixing the seams.

And pulling the bottom thread, the seam allowances begin to curl.

Our task with you is to iron this whole thing, and cut off the extra folds. Here we have such a pocket.

We process the second pocket in the same way. We will sew by hand, but only to the base of the coat, without touching the lining.

We will also sew loops for the belt. It is very easy to sew them, the only thing I would add is that the loops should be 1 cm more than the width of the intended belt.

The final connection of the lining with the coat

We sew the lining to the neck from the wrong side, combining the middle of the products.

We will lay the seam directly along the seam that we did earlier, sewing the collar with the back. Having turned the product inside out, we got a pretty collar.

Now we need to refine the bottom cut of our coat. To do this, we pin the lining to the coat, starting from the neck, aligning the seams of the lining and coat with each other, respectively.

We fold our coat in half along the middle line, combining the front sections of the coat.

As we can see, we got the bottom of different lengths. In fact, there is nothing wrong with that. We will simply outline a new bottom line, having previously checked ourselves that the bottom line must necessarily pass at a right angle with respect to the front section of the shelf and to the middle of the back. We cut along the new bottom line, capturing all the layers of our coat.

Now we bend the bottom of the coat by 3 cm, and iron it. You can pre-baste the hem so that it is more even.

We turn the coat inside out, and connect the hem and the bottom of the lining with the front sides, stepping back from the edge of 1 cm. Starting with the selection, which we will sew from the very fold of the hem, gradually moving closer to its edge, until the cut is

But we will sew the lining at a distance of 1 cm from the edge of the cut.

The corners of the beard can be cut off. We turn the product inside out, now through the hole we left in the side seam of the lining. And iron, making a soft fold from the lining.

And now we can sew our cut on the side seam of the lining, however, on the front side, retreating literally 1mm from the edge.

OK it's all over Now! The hardest part is over! We have to sew a belt. I decided to sew it in two parts, after bending the edges.

Now we need to properly steam the product we have sewn, and our coat is ready!

That's all for me. I repeat that this is my first experience in sewing such a serious product as a coat. Maybe I didn't succeed.

Trying on a coat on our model))

And I decided to make the first image, as in my previous publication: coat + sneakers

A coat with lapels is good because you can lay out these very lapels in different ways, wrapping the coat

Look with trousers

Boyfriend jeans look

Lucky are those who sew not like a professional, but love to do it. Now such types of outerwear are very popular, which even a modest lover, even a beginner in sewing, can sew. Oversized coats, quilted jackets, ponchos, capes... They are not as difficult to sew as classic coats, they do not need to be customized. And you can also choose a fabric that will hide the flaws of an inexperienced seamstress: faux fur, for example, is now no less relevant than natural.

So, if you really want to create something like this for yourself for the fall, but you don’t have the courage, I offer a few ideas for inspiration. Some of these patterns can be sewn literally in an evening!

First, my favorite is the square jacket, aka the blanket jacket.

A cape for which a noble fabric is suitable: plain natural wool, for example.

More capes on the simplest patterns:

A poncho that can become a fur coat if sewn from fur.

Kimono coat. Perhaps it is also better to sew it from fur so that it is not visible that it is pulling somewhere: a very simplified pattern.

This pattern is more complicated, but you can figure it out: it turns out a very pretty coat with a lowered sleeve.

The key to success is a well-chosen fabric plus a little courage, then everything will work out for sure!

Ideas are peeped on the Internet. If these are your photos, write to the administrator. He will either credit you with authorship or remove the article if you wish.

February 23 is approaching - a holiday on which we traditionally give surprises and attention to all our close men, young and old. Therefore, every year in February we begin to think hard about how to pamper, please or even surprise our defenders. The editors of Shopping Ideas asked several men about what they themselves would like to receive as a gift, and based on the answers received, a list of useful, fresh, not banal ideas that may be useful to you on the eve of February 23rd has come up.

Let's choose together. So let's go!

The idea of starting to sew outerwear usually scares away beginner needlewomen. It seems incredibly difficult - precisely because you have to build or at least adjust the patterns. But everything is not as bad as it seems. There are a lot of models that will be possible even for those who bought a sewing machine yesterday and just started to master it. Where can I get coat patterns for beginners? Making simple patterns with your own hands is not at all problematic - and some models are sewn without a pattern at all, and look great at the same time. About how such miracles are created, we will tell in our article.

Classical and non-classical

Of course, if we are talking about a classic coat, you can’t do without a pattern. And this is really perhaps the most difficult piece of clothing, only with a men's suit will be more trouble. But there are a lot of models of modern coats that are sewn according to the most primitive patterns. Yes, and sewing clothes without a pattern with your own hands is a fairly common and even popular thing, fortunately, modern fabrics allow this.

What kind of outerwear can you sew by marking directly on the fabric? Not so little:

raincoat coat;
cape coat;
poncho coat;
coat with one-piece sleeves.

The most terrible secret of elegant needlewomen who have already got their hands on such products is that any of these models can be unlined. Agree, the classic style without lining, as well as pickups, welt pockets and similar subtleties, is difficult to imagine. But do-it-yourself outerwear without patterns happens without such designer excesses. Pockets can be as simple as possible, instead of pick-ups, you can make a bar, a collar is not necessary - in a word, the style can be simplified to the limit, and it will look great. Tempting? Then let's get started.

A little about materials

Extremely simple cut and beautiful fabric, which, moreover, is easy to process - these are the two guarantees of future success. It is better to choose a fabric that is double-sided, which does not crumble and holds its shape well. Many modern coat fabrics have these remarkable qualities. Sometimes you come across a very high quality cloth.

Important! For some products, raincoat fabric or canvas is suitable - if, for example, we are talking about a summer coat that you can throw on yourself on a cool evening.

cape coat

Do you want an unusual coat with your own hands? The pattern is done in almost the same way as for a half-sun skirt. A cape coat is something like an old raincoat, only without a hood - instead, you can make a stand-up collar from natural or faux fur. Or you can not do it, options with a neckline are now in great fashion. The length can be any - mini, knee-length or even to the floor. And nothing prevents you from making a double cape - the main one and something like a cape.

Important! If you are afraid to ruin the fabric, make a pattern on paper first. True, the sheet will need a very large one, since the entire coat is cut in one piece. You can glue several pieces of graph paper, for example, or even old newspapers. In general, if there are remnants of wide wallpaper, it will be very good. And, of course, it is better to cut on the floor in a spacious room.

But if you build directly on the fabric, many inconveniences can be avoided. To make a pattern you will need:

pencil;
long line;
compass;
button;
lace.

Important! If it is possible to make or get a large compass, you can do without a lace with a button.

What should we build a pattern?

In order to make a simple coat pattern for beginners, you only need to know two measurements:

neck girth;
product length.

As for the amount of fabric, if the length of the coat is less than the width of the cut, you will need 2 lengths, and if more - at least 3. You still need to leave a strip for the collar and bottom processing, if required:

Spread the sheet on the floor or a large table.
Draw a straight line - its length should be slightly more than twice the length of the product.
Find the middle of this line.
Draw a semicircle from the middle, the radius of which is equal to the length of the product - that's what you need a cord, a pencil and a button for: a pencil is tied to the cord, on the other side of the cord this whole structure is pinned to the center, and the length of the rope should be equal to the length of the product.
Draw a perpendicular from the middle of the line to the edge. On it you need to set aside the girth of the neck, divided by 6.28, or an arbitrary value, but such that the notch fits your neck not too tightly, but not too loose.
From this point, draw a circle with a radius equal to this measure.
Cut out the pattern along the contours - you should have a half ring.
You can make cuts for the hands - this is done by eye, already on the fabric.

We sew a cape coat

For this model, double-sided fabric is just perfect. You will receive two capes at once, because your product can be worn on both sides - if, of course, you can arrange everything neatly. In addition to fabric and the most common sewing supplies, you will need:

edging or braid for processing slots and bottom;
several buttons (maybe one large);
strip of fur or edging for the neck.

Important! In sewing stores you will find piping of various types, but nothing prevents you from making it yourself from non-shrinking fabric, suitable in texture and color. Basically, it's just a tape with edges.

Such an unconventional coat is sewn literally in no time. The most important thing in this story is to make cuts beautifully. They should be even, slightly oblique and symmetrical. It is done like this:

If you cut out a paper pattern, circle it on the fabric, positioning it so that the cut of the cape goes along the edges.
Cut out the piece.
Try on the future coat by chipping the neck with a safety pin.
See where it is more convenient to make cuts, mark them.
Remove the coat, spread out and adjust the position of the slits.
Cut the lines (preferably with a blade or a sharp knife, scissors are not very suitable).
Fold the piping in half and bast to the fastener lines, putting the edge of the fabric between the layers of the piping - if the coat will only have one button, of course.
Attach a piping.
Finish the bottom the same way.
Slots are also made in the same way, only you need to do it as carefully as possible, paying special attention to the corners.

Collar

The last stage is the collar and clasp. You can, of course, do without a collar, and decorate the top with an undercut or a drawstring. But if you like the stand better, do this:

We draw a strip on paper, the length of which is equal to the girth of the neck, and the width is equal to the height of the collar, while on the sheet there should be free space on both sides of the strip.
We divide the strip in half along the length, draw a line perpendicular to the long sides - this line will be located on the back of the head, it can be designated as Z1 and Z2 (Z1 - above, Z2 - below).
We also divide each half in half and draw two more perpendiculars to the edges.
We determine where your collar will have the top, and where the bottom - you can make notes B and H.
From the point Z1 and Z2 we set aside 1 cm towards the bottom.
From the lines dividing the halves of the collar in half, set aside 0.5 cm upwards.
We connect in pairs the points on the occipital line and the lateral ones with smooth curves.
We cut out a strip with new lines, transfer it to the fur, not forgetting to leave small allowances.

Important! It is best to cut such a faux fur collar - it is softer, easy to cut and no special tools are needed for sewing, but you need to cut any fur with short scissors so as not to damage the pile.

We sew the faux fur collar on the wrong side, then turn it inside out, paying particular attention to the corners. We fold the allowances inward and sew it all to the top of the cape coat, inserting the edge of the neckline between the layers of the collar. We sew on a large button on one side, on the other - we make a wide decorative loop (you can use the piping with which you made the cuts).

cloak coat

This type of outerwear very much resembles an officer's cape. Ideal for fans of military style, but according to the same scheme, you can make a very interesting and very feminine little thing. It is cut and sewn in almost the same way as a cape coat, but instead of a collar, a hood is made (you can sew it so that it fastens with a zipper and, if necessary, turns into a collar). And such a coat is made on a long clasp. But, since the width of the main part is large, no additional stripes need to be sewn. It is enough to bend the bar to a width of 0.5 and 3 cm on the wrong side, iron and stitch.

The hood is sewn from the same fabric, it can be lined - for example, faux fur, but this is not necessary. The pattern is made on the basis of a rectangle:

Build this geometric figure, taking as a basis the distance from the base of the neck to the crown of the head and adding 5-6 cm to it. The other side is the girth of the head, divided in half.
Determine which side the face will be on - mark this side with points L1 and L2.
Designate the back of the head Z1 and Z2, while the points L1 and Z1 should be on top.
Continue the line L1-Z1 towards the face by 5 cm, put the point L3 and connect it with a straight line to the point L2.
From point Z2, lay down 2 cm.
Connect this new point with point L2 with a smooth arc.

It is better to decorate the cutouts for the hands with stripes with decorative stitching, in much the same way as it is done when sewing clothes with welt pockets - only burlap is not made. The coat is sewn in the same order as the previous one.

Important! Such a coat can be cut out on a sleeveless polyethylene raincoat.

What else will we sew?

And what else can be sewn according to the most primitive patterns, and even without them at all? Yes, whatever. And the most exciting activity is homemade clothes with your own hands. Simple patterns for robes are made in the same way as for some not quite classic coats. Let's try?

No, it will not be a cape or a raincoat, but a one-piece product - you can sew both outerwear and what you wear at home using the same pattern. For example, a free terry dressing gown. We take measurements, they are quite ordinary:

hip girth:
sleeve length;
product length.

After that, we start cutting:

We lay out the fabric in 2 layers, folding along the shared thread.
We cut out a rectangle for the back - it will be solid, and the fold in this case coincides with its middle line. The width of half of the back is equal to the half-girth of the hips, divided in half. To this measure, you can add another 3-5 centimeters, and the length is the same as that of the finished product.
In free places, we cut out 2 shelves by the same standards, only to the middle of the front we need to add another strip 10 cm wide for the clasp.
The blanks for the sleeves are also rectangles, the width is arbitrary, but not less than the distance from the shoulder to the armpit, and if you want to make wide cuffs wrapped up, you need to add another 6-10 centimeters.
On the back and shelves, mark the length of the shoulder seams - it should be the same.
On the same details, mark the bottom of the armhole, the points will need to match when you sew the side seams.
You will arrange the rest after the main parts are assembled.

We sew a bathrobe

The first thing to do is stitch the shoulder seams. You will get a blank on which you will model everything else:

Baste the sleeves, sew them on.
Topstitch both side seams while sewing the seams of the sleeves as well.
Try what you got.
Fold the neck to make it comfortable - you can stab the allowances with tailor's pins.
The neck should smoothly transition into the bar.
Bend the bar twice, also chip off on one and on the other field, leaving open the areas adjacent to the neck.
See what happens, align all the folds.
Cut the neckline along the cleavage line.
Cut out an undercut piece from the same fabric or another - thin, but well-shaped.
Fold the hem and the main neck with the right sides to each other - all the cuts should match.
Sew around the neckline.
Turn the hem piece to the wrong side, iron.
Bend it, stitch it - or, if it is possible to overcast, you can not fold it so that the seam is not too thick.
Attach planks.

After that, it remains only to sew on the buttons and make loops, as well as hem the bottom. Sleeves can be folded up, folded over, sewn with a decorative stitch.

Important! You can sew a coat in exactly the same way, it will be even easier. There are several options for processing the edge - for example, if the fabric is very dense and does not crumble at all, you can not hem or overcast the details, but cut them with curly scissors.

footage

Every good housewife-needlewoman at least once thought about how to dress herself and her loved ones for the winter. The best option that will suit both the cold season and the off-season is to sew a coat with your own hands. The process is quite energy-intensive, but the result will not keep you waiting.

The product can be both female and male.. The question is only what to make it from, what material to choose. How long it takes to sew depends only on your skills and experience. It is important to want!

Every woman wants to feel beautiful, sophisticated and elegant. For example, a female version of a designer coat will be considered.

Sewing a coat is not so easy, but if you compare a jacket or a quilted down jacket, then making a coat will seem like a very simple task for you.

Necessary materials

You need to decide on the materials for work and analyze in detail each of them. Quality materials guarantee half the success in manufacturing. Actually, the fabric from which you need to sew. What fabric to choose? There are several types of possible options.

If this is the period autumn - spring, then it is better to stay on cotton materials. They repel water well, not blown by the wind. To insulate it, it is worth providing a lining. In the event that the coat is planned to be worn in the cold season, a woolen or piled fabric is required. In addition, you will need:

The color of the fabric and the style of the coat depends only on you and your color type. An important role in this matter is also played by the question of the size of the wallet, for example, materials to take natural or artificial. Choose a matching color lining. If your coat is black and the lining is green, they obviously won't match. It is better to choose a double-sided lining fabric.

Before you make your own winter coat, consider a simple classic wraparound coat. A simple model is chosen not only to facilitate the work, but also because the classics always remain stylish. The model is suitable for women of any physique and body type. It is perfect for both a woman with forms and for athletic young ladies.

Kimono is suitable even for a man. If you have chosen a short coat model for your husband, then it will emphasize his strong shoulders. Such a coat is universal, because it can also be suitable for a child who is active and mobile. It will not impede his movement, almost does not get dirty, does not stretch and does not lose shape. You can not worry about the health of your child, as the coat will be made of two layers of woolen fabric.

Taking measurements

Before you start making a simple coat pattern, you need to take measurements:

Length from the shoulder to the bone at the wrist.
Sleeve width.
Half neck.
Half hip.
The length of the back from the shoulders to the buttocks.
If the future product is fitted, then measure the waist.

Know the constituent elements. The pattern will consist of the following parts:

Front back, half.
Cooking half of the back and lower, two parts each.
Two side pieces.
Anterior chest.
Four sleeve pieces, half each.
Pockets, quantity as desired.

This pattern will resemble a wraparound robe in shape. This model is fixed at the waist with a belt. The advantage of such work is that it does not require painstaking work. All parts can be made in a day, sewn for the same amount. Accuracy and patience are important.

In order to make a coat, you will need 4 m of wool (80% wool 20% synthetics, they will help not to lose their shape, it is enough to keep warm and not wrinkle).

Creating a product pattern

If you are sewing a coat for a colder period, then also take a padding polyester insulation. In order to decorate pockets, you can use both artificial leather and natural.

The process of cutting coat fabric is quite laborious. But it will not be possible to sew a coat quickly and simply, the process requires the diligence of the performer. To make a pattern, take either graph paper or newspaper. If you have had sewing experience before, without fear or hesitation, start sketching out the cut of the coat directly on the fabric.

To build the back, we need two measurements: the volume of the hips and the desired length of the future coat. If you want to go below the knees, then feel free to measure the length from the shoulder and popliteal space. Fold your fabric right side up.

Stepping back a little from above, set aside 1/3 of the volume of the hips. Draw a line 3 cm down from the fold. Add 5 cm to hem the coat. Draw a rectangle with sides 25 and 30 cm to the right of the fold. This rectangle is nothing more than a future sleeve. Then draw a neck from the top left, from which, at a slight angle, lower the shoulder.

If you drew on paper, then run out and attach the details to a pre-ironed fabric.

Build a collar. Find the middle of the neck and put a dot at the end of the line. In the middle of the cut corner, put the second one and draw a line through the points. This will be the lapel line

Set aside the point at which the intersection of the neck will be indicated. After 9 cm from it, lower another point and connect these lines perpendicularly. What shape they will have depends only on the silhouette of the product.

Make a rectangle with seam allowances. The width without them will be 45 cm, the length of one side is 21 cm, and the second line of length will be 16 cm. Connect the parallel lines. This will be your sleeve.

Once you're done, start cutting. Please note that the scissors must be very sharp, as the fabric is quite dense. Sharpen them first.

The next 3 steps are very important. Don't be lazy and make them.

Fastening elements and decor

Pin the parts together, mark the seams by hand. These steps are necessary to make things easier

while sewing on a typewriter, and also so that everything is neat and error-free.

Connect the two largest pieces first. You will do the first, second and third steps, and then proceed to fastening smaller elements. So, first you should fasten the back, then proceed to sewing on the sleeves, then the lapel, neck, and so on.

When finished, attach the lining from the inside. Lay it right side in. Sew first to the shoulders, sleeves, the last will be the back.

Do not forget to insulate the product. Fleece is sewn around the perimeter of the back. Naturally, before sewing on the lining.

Pockets are sewn on last. Make a pattern in advance. Make seam allowances, finish the edges. Mark the future pocket, attach with pins to the coat. Sew with stitches by hand, and only then sew on a typewriter. Remember that you need to sew on three sides, do not sew on top. Before sewing, return the right side inside and sew so that the pocket is not damaged.

Don't forget to leave a piece of fabric for making the belt!

The last stage of decoration. In order to decorate your future coat, you can use various methods. It can be like applications, stickers, sequins, sequins, brooches. Pieces of leather can be processed around the edges of your coat, the edges of the sleeves, pockets and collar. This will help keep it looking longer.

One-Piece Hoodie

If you are just a beginner and you have no experience with tailoring before, but you want to make something yourself, then this option is for you!

A cape coat is one way to sew a coat without a pattern. If it’s difficult for you to figure out the sizes, you don’t have time to work for a long time, then make a so-called poncho or blanket for yourself. It is the most relevant and fashionable now. It has a free cut, it is for this reason that no blanks are needed.

As for a classic coat, we need: fabric (for example, woolen), threads and needles, scissors and a typewriter. And also take a bar of soap or tailor's chalk.

Take a piece of fabric with finished edges. Fold the fabric in half and mark the desired size and width. Mark the neckline. There will be a fold line in the middle. The width (or radius) of your future product can vary within different numbers, for example, 1.5 m wide. The length will be 3 m. The lower stern will be in the shape of a crescent. Poncho can be with or without sleeves.

Finish the edges or decorate them as desired. You can sew on your poncho fur - artificial or natural. This option will serve as a heater, well suited for the cold season.

This model is ideal for every woman, as it corrects the silhouette. It will hide your kilograms, give femininity, lightness, airiness and mystery.

The coat can be made from fabrics that do not get wet, so you can wear it even in the rain if you provide a hood.

The coat can be wrapped or connected with a fastener or closed with a zipper (a fitted model is best for this). If the coat is looser, you can make several fasteners or buttons.

Hiding your poncho on the farthest hangers of the closet, do not think that in the summer you will not be able to try on a coat. You are mistaken, because summer is also a great time to wear a coat. What, surprised? Think back to the last five years! What was the summer like? Sometimes it rained, sometimes it was cold, and summer was more like early spring. Therefore, such an option as a summer coat is relevant. Rather, it is called a raincoat, but its cut is fully consistent with the above example of a winter coat.

It is well suited for windy, rainy weather, for evening walks, outings. Of course, it will differ from the winter one not so much in cut (it can be sewn according to the above principle), but in the material from which it will be sewn. It will no longer be insulated, double-sided, quilted wool. It will be made of light fabric, such as silk or chiffon. Accordingly, it will look lighter and more refined. It will not be hot in it even at +16, because if you choose organic tissues, the body will breathe. You can wear it even in early autumn.

The coat is a universal thing. To make it, you do not need special skills and investments. Your desire and a piece of the soul - and everything will work out!

Attention, only TODAY!

The well-known proverb about a sled that is best prepared in the summer, like no other, fits the presence of a winter coat in the wardrobe. Given the climatic features of some regions of Russia, it must meet certain qualities: be warm and comfortable, elegantly emphasize the dignity of the figure.

When purchasing a finished product, you can encounter a number of inconveniences that you have to put up with:

1. I like the color, but the style is completely out of date.

2. Wonderful fashionable model, but the color leaves much to be desired.

3. In addition, in some places it is required to take in, adjust to the figure. Insufficiently insulated for winter winds and cold weather.

4. Good style, color, fits well, warm, but expensive.

A novice master will find this process time-consuming. How to cope with the pattern, process pockets, cuffs and lapels, correctly determine the place of the undercut? But do not lose heart, but sew a coat yourself.

For this:

We open a school of three simple models: “We sew with our own hands”

Modern fashion trends are considering styles for which a pattern is not needed at all. The assortment of fabrics on store shelves allows you to choose a material that does not require special processing. This means that both an experienced and a novice master will cope with the task quite simply.

When the decision on tailoring is made, it is worth starting to choose a model. Their list is quite impressive - these are cardigans, ponchos, a straight cut, a bell ...

It's time to decide on the necessary materials

The fabric for the coat can be picked up double-sided, which will greatly facilitate tailoring to any master. Sewing a double-sided product is not difficult. In this case, coat o unlined for autumn and spring will always come in handy.

When sewing winter models, wool, corduroy, gabardine, mixed or quilted material is preferable. Boucle-type fabrics fit well into the desired shape. Loose texture hides bad cutting.

Cloth with pile will increase consumption. When working with pile material, the master must take into account that the pile is located in one direction.

It is necessary to add fifteen centimeters to the hem, in addition to the main amount of fabric. You will need decor elements (buttons, locks), sewing accessories, lining fabric and insulation. It will be good to insulate the product stitched quilted synthetic winterizer, artificial or synthetic batting.

Choosing a lining is just as important

Cheap and thin lining is electrified and slips poorly
The best option would be a heavy dress satin
The lining can be either a contrasting tone of the top fabric, or the same

This lining does not lose volume and saves heat, moisture-proof, retains its shape well and has thermal insulation properties. Lining containing wool must be get wet and give the necessary shrinkage of the fabric. Lined clothing should not be tight-fitting. Insulation will give volume and shape to models of a straight silhouette.

Do-it-yourself class for making a straight silhouette model

For tailoring the product, the following measurements are required:

product and shoulder length
half-girth of the neck
sleeve length and width
semi-circumference of the hips

Cutting class

Cut should start with the designation of the middle of the back. To do this, the fabric must be placed on the cutting table. face down and mark the middle thread along the share.

The side edges must be pulled up to the middle of the back to line crossing symbols, iron the fold lines. The width of the sleeve should be marked with dots along the folds, according to the measurements, and cuts should be made to the marked points.

To make a neckline, you need to divide the half-girth of the neck length in half and measure to the midline. Sleeves consist of two rectangles. Sleeve length matches longer side , the width is smaller.

How to sew a product

The first task is to sweep the necklines, shoulder seams of the product, lining fabric and insulation from the wrong side, iron the allowances and sew the sleeves into the base.
The second task is to connect with pins base insulation, attach lining fabric and stitch.
The third task is to decorate with decorative elements. Process loops, sew on pockets and buttons.

Sewing a coat using quilted material

How to sew a coat without a pattern? The description of the main stages of work will help to answer this question.

It will not be a particular problem to pick up an inexpensive stitched canvas on a padding polyester, for sewing warm, easy th, waterproof thing,

The quilted material is double-sided, which makes it easy to cut the coat. Any novice craftsman will sew it without much difficulty. So, we sew a coat from practical material.

Stages of work:

Take your chest measurement
cut out
Start stitching the pieces.

Sewing a warm elegant coat model without a pattern do-it-yourself easy and even a novice master can quickly.

Class for the construction of a cut of an o-shaped model

This model fits all. It hides the flaws of the figure and emphasizes the dignity. It is only important to choose the right size. You can sew such an unlined coat on your own.

Soft coat fabrics are suitable for tailoring, capable of holding silhouette lines. Models from cashmere and drape look chic.

Back

On graph paper, mark the point A at the top left side.
From A down, you need to postpone the length of the product, put point C.
From point A down in a straight line, draw vertical segment, which is equal to the height of the back according to the measure, add 1, you need to mark the point T and draw a waist line horizontally.
From point T down, you need to mark 16 centimeters and draw the next vertical line indicating the line of the thigh.

Neck

From point A, it is worth drawing a segment equal to one third of the neck circumference + 0.5 cm. The neck width point should be indicated by the number that resulted from the addition, for example, 6.5.
From the intended point, it is necessary to measure up 2 centimeters and draw a line across the back.
The shoulder line should be drawn from point 2 down so that the shoulder point lies one and a half centimeters below line A.
The width of the pattern of the back of the product should be set aside at the waist. Scheme: dividing the half-girth of the chest by 2 and add 2.5 cm.
Chest line: divide this distance of the half-girth of the chest by 4 and add 7 cm. The number that turned out as a result must be measured from the previously indicated point A to the bottom, put the point D and draw a straight line horizontally.

Construction of an armhole pattern

From point 14 you need to measure the distance that equal to shoulder length+ 3 cm and draw a slanted line.
Sleeve width: from point 17 you need to draw an armhole at a right angle. The length is equal to half the marked width of the sleeve: two-thirds of this figure is a straight line, one-third is smooth and will end at a distance of 1/3 TT 1 and GG 1.
On the marked bottom line, draw 2 cm to the left and connect the line of the hips with a dot two on the bottom of the product.

Building a front pattern

Building a sleeve pattern

A vertical line AB is drawn equal to custom sleeve length- a segment that was added to the shoulder on the shelf and back.
Wrist line. From the straight line AB on two sides, you need to set aside POzap + 4 cm / 2 and build a stitching line.
The length of this line is equal to the width of the sleeve. From the distance AB, one should set aside half of this length and narrow the side lines.

Building a selection pattern

On the pattern of the back, you need to draw twelve centimeters wide turning the neck of the back and arbitrarily draw the edge of the selection.
The cut can be considered complete. Now it remains to transfer the pattern to the fabric, cut and start sewing the details of the product, sew on the lining, insulate and decorate with suitable fittings.

This ends the lessons in our school, but your class in the manufacture of any of the proposed models is just beginning. Get inspired by viewing models on the Internet and start creating!