Sew a straight dress with lace trim. DIY lace dress

Lace wedding dress from Milo.

I quote-

There was an impulse to sew a dress with inconspicuous seams (overlay), but the girl did not want to ... it was important for her that it was visible that the dress was sewn.
Yes, I wouldn’t have succeeded ... the fabric was only 1.60 with a width of 90 ... and since it was cut across, we can assume that the dress was sewn from 90 cm (with a width of 160).

Layout on fabric. The fabric is folded in a special way... there are folds on both sides, and the cuts "meet on the territory" of the cut

MK - details of sewing a lace dress with a lining.
Sewing dresses reduced to two principles:
1 - fasten the layers together, and then sew the parts together, as from ordinary fabric
2 - instead of an overlock, edge the slices

The second photo shows that the lace detail was cut out a little more (I fitted it later) ... and my pigtail is visible from waxed cotton threads for basting, which rapidly and safely (without getting confused) decreases, despite the fact that before sewing each I also prepare things with polyester threads to match.

Then the details were stitched along the contour at a distance. 4mm from the cut, cut off the excess.

A stitched tuck is visible on the silk back (going from the armhole, and not from the shoulder ... because the layout did not allow it differently) ... I didn’t make such a small one on lace, but simply sutured it in this area.

Bias binding.
I edged with the thinnest lining fabric to avoid additional roughness of the seams.
I did the first line on a machine, and the second by hand ... due to the uneven thickness of the layers on the machine, the second line turned out not so hot ... there are also complaints about manual edging - iron it strongly (then the lace pattern began to be printed) and it did not work out .

The underside... in real life it looks more decent than in the photo

The bottom of the silk layer

Lace is a favorite material for wedding dresses. Although many dressmakers find working with lace fabric very difficult, you will be pleased to know that these difficulties are somewhat exaggerated. The advantage of lace is that they do not need to process sections and cut them out only along the shared thread. In addition, a good result will reward you for all your efforts.

Lace properties.

Lace fabric for a wedding dress, as a rule, has a complex pattern. Popular lace tulle, like many other types of lace fabric, has a mesh (or honeycomb) as a base, on which the pattern is repeated and protruding loops (pico) along the scallops.

High-quality lace fabrics are very thin, they can be decorated with hand or machine embroidery, braid, ribbons, sequins, pearls, beads or beads. The honeycomb structure of the lace fabric allows you to ignore the direction of the shared thread and work creatively with patterned motifs and scallops.

Lacy fabrics and fabrics, as a rule, are of small width and are used for cutting coquettes, trimmings or appliqués. Sometimes the entire bodice and sleeves are made of lace fabric. Machine lace has patterned rapports along the entire length and not always - scallops and finished edges. Some motifs of such lace are repeated quite often and they can be cut into strips to finish the edges of the product. You can choose well-matched stripes for finishing the edges of lace details.

Lacing patterns.

Lace fabric can be used for the entire dress, go only for its individual parts. When buying a lace fabric, pay attention to how much material is required in relation to the pattern, as well as in relation to the layout of the lace patterns.
Consider if you can make the best use of this lace fabric for your product.

See how the lace itself, its pattern, weight and density will be combined with the style of your dress. Consider the direction of cutting the lace: whether you will need to cut it in length, in width, or cut out individual patterns or scalloped edges.

Take a close look at the lace pattern: is it possible to use its individual sections for decoration. Lace scallops can decorate the edges of the product, in addition, decorate the product with lace appliqués or trim the lace edges with braid. Depending on the type and weight of the lace fabric you have chosen, you must decide whether you will use the lining, and if so, which one.

Some very beautiful dresses are made without lining. Choose only a lining that will not affect the look of your lace. Lining fabric is best used for transparent lace, it can be the same color with it or another and even contrasting. The lining will make your dress tighter, more comfortable and will allow you to achieve a better fit.

Some laces are thin, but very sharp. For them, it is better to take an almost invisible thin mesh or tulle as a lining fabric. The lining can be shiny or matte. Try pairing lace with satin, taffeta, organdy, crepe, voile, or sheer leotards.

When working with light-colored lace, cover the work surface with a smooth dark cloth and spread the lace in one layer on this cloth. Lay out all the paper patterns on the lace, paying attention to how the lace patterns fit on the right and left sides of the front and back, as well as in the middle.

Either prick the details with thin pins on the lace, or press them with weights. Cut out lace fabric only with cutting scissors.

Open the lace.

When cutting lace, make sure that its pattern is not broken by the seam, but ends near the seam. Carefully plan and lay out your paper patterns like you would with a tartan. Arrange the patterns evenly and think about how to join the parts. Having achieved a good result, fix the paper patterns with thin pins or weights.

Ribbed lace, where the ribbons accentuate the floral motifs, requires more thought, although the well-known claim that lace does not fray is true, nevertheless, your results will be more successful if you do not cut the ribbons framing the outer line of the pattern.

To make it easier to cut the lace while maintaining the integrity of the pattern, circle the line of the motif with the help of threads. With a thread of a different color, mark the stitching line. Cut through the lace behind the stitching line, you can give a regular seam allowance of 1.5 cm wide or more if the piece is large. Cut out the lace only when you are sure you have drawn the lines correctly.

Before you start sewing, try ironing an unnecessary piece of lace. It is recommended to iron the lace on a terry towel or a special soft bedding, so as not to smooth the pattern. The lace is placed face down and then ironed with dampness through a damp cloth or iron, which will protect your lace from dirt as well.

Needles and threads.

Take pieces of lace and check what threads are suitable, the size of the needle for sewing it. If you are using a size 80 needle, thread your machine with cotton or polyester thread. Hold the lace along the seam front and back to keep it from sagging, but don't pull. Set the stitch length to 2.5mm, sew slowly. Vary the stitch length, needle and thread combinations, and thread tension until you reach the desired result. If, nevertheless, the lace is strung on the foot, sew through tissue paper or a transparent lining. If the lace gets caught in the needle bar, sew on a straight stitch or place a strip of tissue paper under the fabric.

Traditional overcasting and darting techniques are great for matted, lined, or piping lace. These seams can be adjusted at the last fitting. Seams on thin lace are processed with a double stitch or overlock. This overlay is very difficult to fix.

Connecting lace details along the marked lines.
Lay the parts on top of each other, combining the lines of the same patterns. Baste the detail along the seam line with a contrasting thread, make the necessary marks with a curly stitch. In this case, there is no need to make labels.

Seam stitching.
Secure the bottom edge of the piece with small zigzag stitches. Refer to your machine's manual for which presser foot and stitch length to set.

Seam processing.
After stitching the pattern, cut off the excess allowances on the upper part of the lace. On the wrong side, cut the allowances close to the stitches. In the same way, tucks should be grinded.

Lace appliqué.

Application placement.
Sometimes it is not possible to place the pattern pieces so that the scallops are in the places you would like them to be, such as at the neck, at the bottom of the sleeves or at the bottom of the skirt. In this case, the edges are trimmed with stripes with scallops or appliqués, for which lace braid with scallops is quite suitable.

In addition, scalloped stripes can be cut from the lace fabric you already have or cut patterns from its inside. Place the lace strips on the edge you want to trim. For the best effect, try to evenly distribute the lace patterns: small patterns work best on small pieces like collars and cuffs, and larger patterns work better on larger pieces like a skirt.

Lace trim.
Lay the appliqué on the piece of fabric so that a single piece is formed. If the workpiece has sharp curves, trim the appliqué to shape with steam, or score the appliqué to make it lie flatter; pin and take.

To make the same scalloped hem as our dress, cut out a large triangle of scalloped lace fabric to secure it to the bottom of the front of the dress. Place the scalloped edge over the already sewn front of the skirt.

Sew by hand or machine stitch close to the top edge of the lace. To embellish the rest of the hem, cut out a scalloped strip following the pattern. Pin to the finished hemming of the back of the skirt, placing the inner edge of the scallops along the entire bottom edge.

The lace motif from the back panel of the skirt should end in such a way as to overlap the sides of the front appliqué; try to make sure that the motive is not interrupted, if possible, along the entire edge. Imperceptibly and firmly bend the straight edge of the scallops on your hands. Without grabbing the dress, connect the ends of the motif from the back panel of the skirt with an appliqué on the front panel of the skirt imperceptibly and firmly on your hands.

To complete the top edge of the large appliqué on the front of the dress, place individual motifs cut from the leftover lace to create a continuous beautiful lace pattern. Sew motifs on your hands firmly and discreetly.

Cutting out the fabric from under the lace appliqué.
Stitch the inside edge of the appliqué with a zigzag machine, or hand sew over the edge. Cut the base fabric close to the seam so that the appliqué is sheer.

Lace appliqué on satin.
Pin the appliqué from the wrong side to the right side of the satin. Baste. Along the edge and inside the pattern, sew the appliqué with small stitches by hand, being careful to keep the lace and satin lying flat. You can sew the applique to the edge with a narrow zigzag or straight stitches if it looks good.

But today is not about that, but about how to make a dream dress out of 3.5 meters of lace and 3 meters of knitwear.

So, we start with cutting lace. I sewed this dress for sale, so I used my standard patterns for size 40. (How to make them should be told separately, and this is probably not the topic here).

The peculiarity is that lace "does not like" seams and I try to minimize their number in the product. As you can see, there will be only one vertical seam on the dress - on the back, the side seams are reduced to the state of side darts. The edge of the dress (hem) is cut out figuratively according to the lace pattern, so it will not crumble and is just beautiful)

We cut off the scalloped edge at the lace (there is such a strip of fine lace along the edge of the fabric) - we will need it to process the edges of the sleeves and the neck.

Now we will "torment" the Cristal jersey, which I decided to use for the lining. It is pleasant to the body and elastic, which is important for a good snug fit, as we like))

We will use the same patterns, but we make the lining 4 cm throughout the entire volume less than the same lace details. And we transfer the side tucks to the line of the middle of the back.

* I understand that if you do not have the knowledge of a cutter, then it is not very clear on what basis to transfer tucks and all that, but this dress is still not worth sewing for beginners - the fabric is expensive, they don’t train on such)))

For beginners, I have already prepared simple and spectacular models - next. publications will share)

Knitted sleeves are not needed, because they are unlined.

The "train" detail is copied from the lace detail.

IMPORTANT: the entire lining is shorter than the lace part of the dress by 4-5 cm.

To kill everyone on the spot, not only with a cutout on the back, but also with a neckline on the chest, we cut it into the details of the front of the lining and process the edge with a knitted trim from the same knitwear. Here in this photo is a lining, along the edge of the throat lies a still unsewn twine.

We sew the inlay with an overlock.

We sew it on a typewriter with a special foot. Use sewing gadgets - they make work easier and improve quality)

Here is a detail of the lining with a finished neckline.

We sew the chest and side darts on the lace part of the dress, sew them on the front side with a dotted zigzag, so that the seam is flatter and more durable, and cut off everything superfluous from the inside.

Now we put the lace part on the lining and then we will pretend that they are a single whole.

As you can see, the knitted part is smaller than the lace part in volume (this was discussed above). This is necessary so that both tissues with varying degrees of extensibility sit equally well on the body.

We chip the fabrics together along the contour. We are sewing.

We sew on the neck scalloped lace, which we prepared while cutting, with a dotted zigzag.

Along the line of the middle of the back, we sew the layers of the lining and lace with an overlock.

We insert a hidden zipper in the middle of the back (and what is there - on the ass, to make it clearer))

We hide the tails of the lightning and fix it with an invisible seam manually.

LENGTH FROM WAIST 62 CM

YOU WILL NEED:

Lace fabric with double-sided scalloped edge 2.40–2.45–2.50–2.60–2.70 m, 108 cm wide; elastic lining fabric 1.45–1.45–1.50–1.50–1.50 m, 135 cm wide; interlining G 710; 1 detachable zipper 65 cm long; color matching tape 0.60 m wide 1 cm.

RECOMMENDED FABRICS: LACE FABRICS, LINING FABRICS FOR THE LAYER LAYER.

PAPER PATTERN:

Reshoot the pattern details: Note the different direction of the grain thread for the lace details and the lining details. Put the details of the paper pattern on the lace fabric / fabric according to the layout plans and pin. Details a and b draw directly on the lace fabric.

ALLOWANCES:

On the seams and on the cuts - 1.5 cm, on the hem of the bottom - 4 cm. For parts a and b, the allowances are already taken into account in the given dimensions.

Fold the lining fabric in half with the right side inward. Lay out the lace fabric in one layer with the right side up. Cut out the right and left paired parts symmetrically. Draw the frills so that the lower edges of the frills fall on the scalloped edge of the lace fabric, and the middle of the frills lies in the middle of the scallop or between two scallops.

Lace fabric with double-sided scalloped edge 108 cm wide

CUT:

FROM LACE FABRIC WITH DOUBLE-SIDED SQUARE EDGE:

1 Shelf bodice 2x
2 Back bodice with fold 1x
3 Set-in belt shelf 2x
4 Set-in back belt with fold 1x
5 Front panel of the skirt 2x
6 The back panel of the skirt with a fold 1x
7 Turning the neck of the shelf 2x
8 Turning the neck of the back with a fold 1x
9 Sleeve 2x
a) waist frill 124-128-132-136-140 cm long and 13 cm wide, including allowances;
b) 2 sleeve frills, 41-42-43-44-45 cm long and 14 cm wide, including allowances.

IN STRETCH LINING: DETAILS 1-8.

IMPORTANT:

cut out the set-in belt of the shelf (detail 3) 4x, cut out the set-in belt of the back (detail 4) 2x with a fold.

PAD:

details on the layout plan are highlighted in gray. Iron the lining from the wrong side of the lining parts.

When basting and stitching, fold the details of the cut with the front side inward. Bartack at the beginning and end of each seam.

Fitted dress Openwork charm! Before you is not a suit at all, but a tight dress with a zipper. Lace scallops form the bottom edge of the frills at the bottom of the see-through sleeves and along the waist. By the way, the waist frill dramatizes the peplum and forms feminine proportions.150 TO CART

LACE DETAILS BASTE ON LINING DETAILS

Put all parts except sleeves (part 9) and frills (a, b) on the corresponding parts of the lining with the wrong side to the right side and pin.

Sweep the sections, in addition, lay running stitches at a distance of 2 mm from the lines of the tucks. Further details to process as single-layer. The figure shows the bodice of the shelf. In the rest of the drawings, the lace fabric is not depicted.

darts

Stitch chest darts on the bodices of the shelves, iron the depths of the darts up. Stitch longitudinal darts on the bodice of the back and on the panels of the skirt, iron the depths of the darts to the line of the middle of the front / back.

SHOULDER AND SIDE SEAMS

Put the bodices of the shelves on the bodice of the back with the front side to the front side, chop off and stitch the shoulder sections, while attaching the shoulder sections of the back. Stitch the side seams on the bodice of the dress. On the set-in belt and on the skirt, make side seams. Overcast seam allowances and iron.

FRILL

Iron the ends of the frill on the wrong side to a width of 1.5 cm, tuck and stitch to the edge. Gather the upper cut of the frill, for this, at a distance of 1 and 1.5 cm from the cut, lay machine lines with large stitches. Pull the frill on the lower threads of the gathering stitches to the length of the upper cut of the skirt. Tie the ends of the threads of the gathering lines.

Distribute the assembly evenly.

BATTLE THE FRILL

Baste the frill to the upper cut of the skirt with the wrong side to the front side, the allowances on the middle cuts of the front panels of the skirt protrude (arrow).

STITCH-IN BELT

Pin the set-in belt to the upper cut of the skirt with the right side to the front side (control mark 5), aligning the side seams.

Stitch the belt, securing the frill. Similarly, stitch the set-in belt to the lower cut of the bodice of the dress (control mark 6). Iron the seam allowances onto the belt.

ZIPPER

Overcast the allowances along the longitudinal sections of the shelves and iron on the wrong side. Baste the zipper under the ironed longitudinal sections of the shelves so that the teeth of the zipper are not visible, aligning the ironed folds over the teeth, do not fasten the frill. The top teeth of the zipper lie at the corner of the neckline. The incision is left open at the bottom.

Sew on the zipper, interrupting the lines at the bottom seam of attaching the set-in belt and not fastening the frill. When doing this, use the foot of the sewing machine to attach zippers and piping.

METHODS OF PROCESSING THE NECK: MASTER CLASS

NECK/TRIM

Lay the facings of the necks of the shelves on the facings of the neck of the back with the right side to the front side, stitch the shoulder sections. Iron the seam allowances. Overcast the outer edge of the facing. Baste the facing to the cut of the neck with the right side to the front side, aligning the shoulder seams. Unscrew the front ends of the facing, not reaching 3 mm to the edges of the cut, pin. Stitch the stitch.

Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, notch in several places on the fillets. Unscrew the facing on the neckline and stitch on the seam allowances of the stitching close to the seam. Turn the facing to the wrong side and sew by hand to the allowances of the shoulder seams.

Tuck the ends of the facing and sew to the braids of the zipper.

BELT IN LINING FABRIC

On the details of the set-in belt from the lining fabric, grind the side sections. Iron the seam allowances. Iron the allowance along the lower cut of the set-in belt to the wrong side.

Put the belt from the lining fabric on the bodice of the dress with the right side to the wrong side and sew to the allowances of the upper seam of the stitching of the outer belt close to the seam for the maximum possible length.

Iron the belt down, tuck the cut and sew by hand to the allowances of the lower seam of the attachment of the outer set-in belt and to the braids of the zipper.

ROLLS SLEEVE

Gather the sleeve frills to the length of the lower sections of the sleeves in the same way as the waist frill (see text and figure 3).

Stitch the frills to the lower sections of the sleeves right side to the front side. Cut the seam allowances close to the seams, overcast and iron on the sleeves. To fix the assemblies, put pieces of tape on the seam allowances for attaching the frills of the sleeves, sew the tapes to the allowances at the edge.

PERFECT WORK: SET-IN SLEEVE

SLEEVES

To fit the sleeve sleeves along the sleeves, lay 2 machine lines at a distance of 1 and 1.5 cm from the cuts with large stitches, do not backtack, leaving the long ends of the threads of the lines. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, chop off and stitch the sections of the sleeve to the lower cut of the frill, aligning the ends of the seam for attaching the frill. Cut seam allowances close to the seam, overcast together and iron to one side.

STITCH IN SLEEVES

Slightly pull the sleeves on the lower threads of the gathering lines. Pin the sleeves to the cuts of the armholes with the right side to the front side, aligning the control marks 9 on the sleeves and shelves, as well as the seams of the sleeves with the side seams. Align the marks on the sleeves with the shoulder seams.

Distribute the landing on the okats so that there are no folds. Sweep the sleeves from the side of the sleeves and sew in after trying on. Overcast the allowances of each seam together and iron on the sleeve.

HIM BOTTOM

Overcast the hem allowance for the bottom of the dress, sweep to the wrong side, iron and sew by hand with loose stitches.

Lace is a very beautiful material that gives femininity and grace to every girl. Today, lace is very fashionable; it is used in the tailoring of absolutely all clothes, including tracksuits. But lace dresses have been especially relevant for more than one season. Despite the lightness and thinness of the fabric, sewing such things is quite easy. We bring to your attention a few step-by-step lessons on how to sew a lace dress with your own hands. We hope that they will help you create truly unique pieces that will not go unnoticed.

Basic rules for working with lace that everyone should know

Despite the simplicity of working with lace, problems can arise if certain nuances are not known. So that you do not experience such embarrassment, we bring to your attention a few rules that will greatly simplify and speed up the process:

You can connect lace details using a sewing machine or overlock. In this case, the choice of tool depends entirely on the ornament and the density of the material.
The seam allowances can be finished with a bias tape or an overlocker.
If the product needs to be adjusted strictly according to the figure, it is best to use knitted lace for these purposes.
If the finished product should not be transparent, you will need to choose a lining. For these purposes, it is best to choose thin knitted fabrics, satin or silk.

Important! In order for the finished product to be more original and extraordinary, the lining should be chosen in a contrasting color.

If you are sewing a dress or other item of stretch lace, it is best to strengthen the shoulder seams by sewing a cotton bias trim to them.
Try to choose models with a minimum number of seams. This is necessary in order not to cut the material too much and not to spoil the ornament.

If there are scallops on the cut of the lace you have chosen, they can beautifully decorate the edges of the finished product, sleeves or necklines.
Iron this material should be very carefully at a low temperature.

Lesson #1 Dream dress

We suggest you sew a maxi-length dress made of lace with a lining. This outfit is perfect for a wedding or prom.

To make it, you will need the following tools and materials:

3.5 meters of lace;
3 meters of knitted fabric for lining;
Scissors;
A remnant or tailor's marker;
Tape measure;
Sewing machine;
Threads in color;
Overlock;
needles;
Tailor's pins;
Hidden zipper;
Oblique inlay.

The sequence of actions when sewing an outfit:

Carefully cut off the scalloped edge of the lace.
Build a pattern and cut out the details you need from it.

Important! You can build a pattern yourself or download a ready-made one from the Internet.

Transfer the cut out pattern elements to the lace and cut out the details of the future product. Do the same with the knitwear for the lining.

Important! Details for the lining should be cut 4 centimeters less than the details cut from lace.

Cut out the “train” detail from the lace.
Finish the edges of the lining with bias tape. It should be sewn on with an overlocker, and then sharpened on a sewing machine.
On the lace part of the dress, sew up the side and chest darts. They should be stitched on the front side with a zigzag seam.
Cut off excess fabric from the wrong side of the workpiece.
Lay the lace blank on the blank from the lining.
Using tailor's pins, pin the blanks together and sew them with a sewing machine.
Sew the scallops onto the neckline with a zigzag stitch.
Sew the layers of the lining and the lace part with an overlock along the line of the middle of the back.
Insert a hidden zipper into the middle of the back.
Hide the zipper tails and fix with a hand seam.
Lay the details of the train on top of each other and sew it from the middle of the back. It should be in the form of a wedge.

That's all, an elegant dream dress made of lace is ready! You can wear it like this, and if you want to add sleeves.

Lesson number 2. Lace cocktail dress

This dress is also suitable for prom and party. To make it, you will need the following tools and materials:

Lace. It can be made from both elastic and non-elastic mesh;
Finished embroidery on chiffon;
Organza for a skirt;
Scissors;
Sewing machine and overlock;
Tape measure;
Tailor marker;
Tailor's pins;
Threads in color;
Coarse calico for the layout;
Needles.

The procedure is as follows:

Cut out the necessary elements of the outfit according to the pattern.
Transfer the pattern to the fabric for the skirt and cut out the desired piece.
Stitch the blank for the skirt with a seam of 1 centimeter and process the side seams on the overlock.
Iron the workpiece towards the front.
Make a seam where the zipper will be sewn.
Stitch in the middle seam of the skirt, starting at the 1.5 cm wide buckle. Iron the seams.
Cut out the elements of the bodice pattern, transfer the pattern to the calico and cut out the blank.
Baste the bodice from the mock fabric and make any necessary corrections and changes.
Open the lace bodice, taking into account all the corrections and corrections.
Stitch the chest darts and iron them upwards.
Stitch the waist darts and iron them towards the center.
Stitch shoulder seams. This can be done in two ways:
- Initially, leave a seam margin of about 1.5 centimeters. Place masking tape on the fabric to the left of the stitching. It should not cover the place of the line itself, but will pass exactly end-to-end. Sew a zigzag stitch along the right side of the tape. Overcast the edge of the seam and remove the tape.

Important! Try not to go on the tape while sewing.

Cut out strips 2-3 centimeters wide from newspaper or paper. Sew the shoulder or side seam with a regular straight stitch, after applying a paper strip to it. Remove the strip and stitch over the finished seam with a zigzag stitch. Overcast the edges of the seam and cut off the excess.

Important! If you are working with chiffon fabric, you should take into account the fact that its edges are quite loose. Therefore, so that the finished outfit simply does not disperse, the edges should be processed with a narrow and frequent zigzag seam.

From the main fabric, cut a strip 4 centimeters wide along the oblique. Fold it lengthwise and in half, then iron.
Finish the neckline with a slanting stitch.
Stitch the side seams and iron them towards the front.
Take the blank of the skirt, gather it along the upper cut so that it is uniform with the lower cut of the bodice.
Pin the blanks of the skirt and bodice with pins.
Overcast the seam on the overlocker and iron it down.
Sew a hidden zipper to the middle sections of the back.

That's it, the dress is ready! If desired, it can be made more magnificent by wearing a petticoat with rings or an organza petticoat with frills under the bottom.