Dress pattern with raglan sleeve. Construction of a raglan sleeve pattern. Raglan blouse - a stylish little thing Raglan blouse pattern 54 sizes

A simple cut, many modeling options, one pattern for all sizes, quick assembly are the advantages of a sapozhkov cut. If your sewing experience is not great, start with a bootie shirt. You will be pleasantly surprised by the good fit and speed of execution. Even high fashion has turned its attention to this truly ingenious cut.

Advantages of the cut

The birthplace of this peasant shirt, dating from the 17th century, is the small town of Sapozhok, Ryazan Region. Our ancestors came up with an accurate and simple cut that fits perfectly into the fabric width of 35 (80, 140) cm, with a minimum number of seams and cut cuts.
Armhole. Relative to the sleeveless base, it is deepened by 3 cm, which provides comfort and freedom of movement. In appearance, the sleeve is close to the set-in. There are no folds under the armhole, characteristic of one-piece sleeves, as in other versions of the folk cut.
Very beautiful raglan line with a slight slope gives a feminine pattern of the shoulders.
Sleeve small volume, not bubbly. The width of the sleeve at the widest part is 38 cm, which is quite enough for a beautiful shape. But for very full hands, the sleeve width can be increased by 3-4 cm.
Gathering at the neck The front gives a beautiful and raised shape of the chest, masking possible imperfections. The neck can not be collected, but laid in shallow folds. This will require an independent calculation of the solutions of the folds and a mandatory clarification on the figure.
Croy offers a variety of modeling and finishing options. It doesn't have to be a shirt; lengthening the pattern, we get a dress.
As practice has shown, this shirt levels out, but in no case corrects figure flaws.

Pattern and fabric consumption

Consumption will vary depending on the width of the fabric.
With a fabric width of 80 cm, you will need two shirt lengths + sleeve length. In this case, the shirt will have side seams.
With a fabric width of 140 - 150 cm, you will need one shirt length + sleeve length. In this case, the seam can be made only one - on the front or back.

Shirt tailoring

Sew the side seams (or back seam) and the seams on the sleeves.
Sew in the sleeves, combining the marks X And ABOUT with similar marks on the sleeve.
We lay two parallel lines along the neck with a stitch length of 4 mm, stepping back from the edge of 5 mm. The distance between the lines is 4-5 mm.
We tighten the neck for the threads, referring to the dimensions in the drawing. If the shirt does not have a fastener, the head should go into the neck.
We process the lower sections of the sleeves and the neck. Processing methods are different: inlay, cuffs, edging, lace.
We try on a shirt, specify the length and process the bottom.

Shoe shirt decor

Shoe shirt decor

The beauty of this shirt is that it is a field for decoration. The possibility of decoration depends only on your imagination, and each tailored shirt can become unique! As a decor, you can use all known methods. Suitable embroidery, tucks, folds, sewing, companion fabrics, ruffles, ruffle, lace, appliqué; everything that your imagination is capable of. Darts in that simple cut are not provided, fitting is achieved with a belt or assembly with an elastic band.

Pattern modeling can bring many new variations to this simple cut. Let's consider some of them.

Dropped shoulder line

A-line

On the pattern, you can make a conical dilution to get an A-line. To do this, the upper sections of the back and front are divided into 4 equal parts. On the sleeve, divide each half in half along the upper cut. From the division points, we lower the verticals (red lines in the drawing) and cut the pattern along them, not reaching the top 2-3 mm.
We push the details at the bottom to the desired value, taking into account that the pattern fits in the width and length of the fabric cut. The side seam on the details of the front and back should be at the same angle to the longitudinal thread. The same applies to the seam of the sleeve. With the same modeling, "playing" with the width of the dilution, finishing with details and decor, you can get completely different results.

Blouses with gathering at the neck and sleeves have not gone out of fashion for many seasons. It seemed to me that such blouses were sewn on the basis of a regular pattern. How wrong I was! It turns out that there is a special cut based on many years of experience of Russian needlewomen. Back in the 17th century, in the city of Sapozhok, Ryazan region, a simple folk "Sapozhkov cut" arose.

Ease of making a pattern, practically waste-free cutting of fabric, a minimum number of seams, a perfect fit on any figure, a variety of modeling options made the bootie shirt especially popular among needlewomen.

The models in the photographs are all a variety of sapozhkov's cut.

Sapozhkovsky cut can be used in any kind of clothing - from home to wedding. How to choose a wedding dress- you can find it on almost any website of the wedding theme. But you will not find information on how to properly sew the details of a Sapozhkov-cut product on every needlework site. For a long time I "looked at" Sapozhkov's shirt. At the "Season" forum, I read several pages of the topic of the needlewoman Frosya Burlakova "The simplicity of the cut of a bootie's shirt", heated discussions of the members of the forum about the simplicity of such a cut and decided: "I will sew!" However, at that moment I did not have a suitable new fabric for sewing a Sapozhkov blouse, and I decided to sew from the leftovers. The pattern is really done in just five minutes. I cut Sapozhkov's blouse according to this pattern (without encroaching on copyright):

Since I didn’t have enough fabric, I had to make a shelf, back and sleeve from 2 parts - with an average seam.

It turned out to be very easy to sew a Sapozhkov blouse - until a certain point (until I tried on the blouse for myself and decided to sew on elastic bands):

1. Stitched the middle and side sections of the shelves and backs, swept over, ironed the seams.

2. Stitched the middle and side sections of the sleeves, overcast, ironed the seams.

3. Stitched the sleeves into the armhole with one line, matching the seams and reference points.

4. I sewed two parallel lines along the cuts of the neck, loosening the top line on the sewing machine. Pulled the threads. I neglected the size of the assembly along the neck, proposed in the article, and made it according to the size of the head circumference plus 2 cm for freedom. There is one nuance here: along the upper cut of each sleeve, along the neck of the shelf and back, I did the assembly separately.

5. I cut out an oblique piping 3 cm wide and a length equal to the girth of the head plus 2 cm for freedom, plus 2 cm for allowances.

6. I stitched the piping to the wrong side of the neckline, made a piping, then swept the piping to the front side, having previously tucked the cut.

7. I sewed a piping on a sewing machine.

8. The lower sections of the sleeves swept over. I swept the allowance along the bottom of the sleeve to the wrong side (the width of the allowance is 0.7-1.0 cm). I wanted to make a sleeve with an assembly along the bottom cut. To do this, I wound an elastic band around the bobbin, slightly loosened the upper thread in the sewing machine and sewed a finishing zigzag stitch on the front side of the sleeve. I tried it on - a sleeve, or rather an elastic band, squeezed my hand. I had to rip the line and make a section of 12 cm without elastic.

9. Hemmed the bottom of the blouse with a hem seam with an open cut, after overcasting the cuts.

And here my torment of creativity began ... The blouse reminded me of a vest or clothes for a pregnant woman. Decided to wear a blouse. To do this, I marked 6 chalk strips on the front side (3 doubled (two lines per foot width) parallel stripes - the distance between them is 6 cm), along which I laid a finishing line, and on the underside - a thread-gum.

Face:

Wrong side:

I got it like this bootie blouse:

Again, I didn't like the result. The fabric turned out to be not very draped, tails sticking out to the sides formed along the bottom of the blouse. Yes, and the elastic band that I stitched was torn in some places at the slightest stretch. After suffering for several days and nights, I came to the conclusion that it is better to make a short summer topic just below the waist line.

To do this, I cut off 10 cm along the bottom (I marked 10 cm from the bottom up, drew a line parallel to the waist line), swept the cut, swept the allowance along the bottom of the blouse to the wrong side (the width of the allowance is 0.7-1.0 cm). Now I wanted to make the bottom of the blouse with the assembly. To do this, I wound an elastic band around the bobbin, slightly loosened the upper thread in the sewing machine and sewed a finishing zigzag stitch on the front side. Then I sewed two more finishing zigzag stitches to the width of the foot.- next time I will sew a blouse from a softer, well-draped fabric;

Assembly along the neckline turns out to be unrealistic - it is necessary to reduce the pattern in volume (at least for my physique);

Sapozhkovsky cut - excellent clothes for pregnant women;

Beginners in sewing can safely take on such work;

I decided to make another master class on sewing elastic bands on fabric.

http://www.samoshvejka.ru Author - Svetlana Shabelnik

A very long time ago, thanks to the skill and cunning of tailors who wanted to flatter their customers, it was invented. It masks figure flaws well and allows the seamstress to creatively approach the stage of pattern construction, since the modeling of grooves, different shapes and contribute to the development of creative thought.

Story

This type of cut is named after Field Marshal Baron Raglan, who lost his arm while fighting in the army of Napoleon I Bonaparte in 1815. A special sleeve model was designed for him to hide this significant drawback. But several other countries are vying for the primacy of creating such

The first mention of this method of cutting is found in English literature in the middle of the nineteenth century, somewhere in 1862. It is generally accepted that the official time of the invention of raglan was the period of the Crimean War (1853-1856). Bad weather on the peninsula prompted the tailors to make this decision. Constant rains greatly demoralized the army, and the lack of seams on clothes gave a chance that a person would not get wet. For the soldiers, this was not a very significant change, although the appearance of the uniform still changed somewhat.

But there are facts that contradict the version of the British that it was they who came up with such a sleeve design. One of the watercolors by the artist Fyodor Solntsev, painted in 1842, depicts a girl in an embroidered shirt cut with a classic raglan sleeve.

In general, the ends of this story can not be found now. But descendants, it seems, do not need to know up to the day when this or that modeling method was invented. The main thing is to be able to use it to your advantage.

Types of raglans

There are several modifications of this method of cutting parts, although there are classifications that are formed according to the main feature.

Armhole shape:

• Typical raglan - the armhole passes through the neck not at its tops, but one and a half to two centimeters lower.
• Zero raglan - the armhole line runs along the front and back necklines, touching at its corners (tops).
• Semi-raglan - the armhole starts from the middle of the shoulder, without touching the neck.
• Raglan shoulder strap - the armhole runs parallel to the shoulder, smoothly turning into the line of the armhole of the set-in sleeve.
• Fantasy raglan - a combination of a set-in sleeve and yoke or neck modeling methods.

Sleeve shape:

• Sheer - for broad shoulders.
• Soft - for narrow.

Number of seams (depending on the construction of the pattern):

• One-sutural.
• Two-seam.
• Three-seam.

Selection for the silhouette

The raglan dress has an amazing property to mask the flaws of the female figure. This is especially true for wide or too narrow shoulders. Depending on how steep or, conversely, how flat the raglan line is, you can visually narrow or expand the upper body. At the same time, the waist will not be too wide, since it is not necessary to cut a loose silhouette to add volume to the shoulders.

What is raglan?

This is a type of sleeve that is modeled and cut out together with the shoulder part of the back and the shelf of the future product. If in the classic version we sew the sleeve into the armhole and hope that it will lie correctly and will not form folds, then here we have no opportunity to screw up, since nothing needs to be ironed, gathered and tacked.

Sleeve construction

With a raglan sleeve, it begins with the construction of a pattern. If you already have ready-made forms for different sizes, then this will be a good help for you to work with.

On the paper for applying contours (for many it is ordinary newsprint), we impose the already existing patterns of the shelves and sleeves, while we combine the shoulder cut with the upper point of the sleeves so that a small angle appears between them. You can change this size yourself. It depends on him how convex the raglan sleeve will be on the finished product. The pattern is pinned with pins. On the layout of the shelf, mark the middle of the neck and divide it in half. From the obtained point (1/4 of the neck), we smoothly draw two lines: one to the armhole, the other to the sleeve. In the same way, repeat for the details of the back.

The construction of the pattern (raglan) is over. It remains only to transfer everything to tracing paper, cut it out and place it on the fabric.

The second version of the pattern

If the first method does not suit you for some reason or seems too cumbersome, then you can use the other. It is also not too simple, but sometimes it is more suitable for modeling a silhouette.

The construction of raglan in this case begins with the application of shelves on ordinary lines. It is cut out, and then the chest tuck is "closed" on it. That is, a triangle is cut out on the layout showing the location of the tuck, and the edges of the neck and armholes are cleaved together. To prevent the template from deforming, an incision is made along the tuck at the waist and a small incision is made from the top of the chest dart to the armhole. Then, when cleaved, they themselves will open to the required width. This technique is called tuck transfer. Then a sleeve is applied to the already formed shelf, and the manipulations from the first option are repeated. Completed the construction of the pattern. Raglan sleeves are sure to work.

Breadboard method

It happens that you need to quickly cut out the details, but there is simply no time to fiddle with pieces of paper and patterns. Then this method comes to the rescue. The raglan pattern is drawn directly on the customer or on the mannequin.

To begin with, do not forget that for a harmonious construction, the line of the middle of the shoulder moves a little forward by a centimeter, and the neck of the back rises by five millimeters. After you have closed all the darts on the shelf and back on your mannequin, combine the line of the cut-off sleeve with the line of the armhole and draw the raglan. You should end up with two sleeve pieces separated along the midline with an off-center.

As a matter of fact, we already have a raglan sleeve. The pattern in this case is of an auxiliary nature, if the master doubts the correctness of the transferred tucks.

Children's raglan

On little dandies and fashionistas, this sleeve shape also looks very advantageous. And it is more convenient to wear dresses when there are no seams that interfere with free movements. The raglan pattern for children is much simpler than for adults. There are no darts that need to be modeled, since the figure of the child does not have pronounced bends and bulges.

The pattern of a dress with a raglan sleeve for a girl is to evenly divide the neckline into four parts on the shelf pattern. Then mark a point on the armhole, which will be just above the chest line, and connect the points with a smooth line, passing into the armhole from below. On the back, you can simply make a straight line from the quarter of the neck to the chest line (middle of the armhole).

Now you can form the sleeve. To do this, we draw a trapezoid, in which the sides are the length of the raglan on the back and shelf, the top is the neckline with the back side raised by 05.-1 cm compared to the front, and the bottom side is a fragment of a circle. After placing the patterns on the fabric, you can cut and sew the finished product.

The pattern of a dress with a raglan sleeve for a child and an adult is not particularly difficult even for a novice master.

Texture

A raglan dress (photo attached) can be sewn from both dense and soft, flowing fabrics that emphasize the silhouette. Designers now like to combine leather sleeves with natural fabrics, jeans with guipure or organza, solid colors and bright, catchy patterns. In general, the scope for creativity is limitless. The simplicity of the cut and the ability to adapt it to any type of figure open up a lot of possibilities.

In addition, with a raglan sleeve, you can sew not only dresses, but also shirts, blouses, jackets. This expands the range of possibilities even more. So do not limit yourself, but create and surprise others. We hope that this article will be of great help to you in this matter.

The blouse along the waist line and the bottom of the sleeves is gathered with puffs or with elastic in several rows. Sew it from any light fabric.

Drawing shaped lines.

Circle the patterns of the bodice with raglan sleeves. From the waist line mark the desired length.

Check the width of the blouse by the lichen of the bottom; it should be 3-4 cm more than the measurement of the half-girth of the hips. The neck and the sprout are expanded by 1-2 cm and deepened: the sprout by 1-2 cm, the neck by 2-3 cm.

The shoulder tuck of the front is moved to the neck, the pattern is cut out and outlined again with the tuck open in the neck.

The sprout and neck are expanded by another 6—8 cm, straighten the armhole.

A straightened armhole is compared with a sleeve; armhole length with kicks from the control point should be equal to the length of the back of the sleeve from the control point; front armhole length from the reference point - the length of the front part of the sleeve from the reference point. Side cuts can be made without bending along the waistline.

Draw a vertical line on a sheet of paper.

On both sides of it, patterns of the front and back parts of the sleeve are placed in such a way that the distance between them at the control points indicated on the edges of the shoulder sections is 1-2 cm, along the bottom line - 8-10 cm.

The tuck that has opened in the okate is then removed into the assemblies. The part of the eye that will go into the neckline is cut off by 1— 2 cm

Open .

To increase the number of assemblies, the back and front patterns are placed on the fabric so that

so that their middles are 2-5 cm away from the fold or from the edge.

The sleeve is cut out in accordance with the direction of the shared thread indicated on the pattern.

Processing sequence.

Snares are laid along the contour lines of the patterns, waist lines, control points on the armholes and on the hem of the sleeves. On the neck and sprout, the bottom of the sleeves at a distance of 3 cm from the cuts mark lines , along which lines will be laid to form assemblies; the distance between the first and last lines is 4 cm. The same lines are laid above and below the waist line.

The side cuts, the upper and lower cuts of the sleeves are swept away, the sleeves are swept into the armholes, combining the control points. On the neckline at a distance of 2-3 cm from the cut and along the waistline, the first lines are laid with long stitches and a loosened tension of the upper thread. They make a sample.

After trying on, the lines on which the assemblies were assembled are removed, the sprout and neck, sleeves are adjusted.

Grind side cuts, top and lower sleeves.

The sleeves are sewn into the armholes. Overcast the cuts. Sew the middle front seam to the end of the incision. Above the end of the cut, the seam allowance is folded to the wrong side, washed and ironed.

They process the neckline, the bottom of the sleeves and the bottom of the blouse: manually - with a round seam, by machine - overlock seam using a zigzag device or a narrow double seam cut type.

At a distance of 2-2.5 cm from the processed cutout for the neck and cuts of the sleeves (if neither trimmed after fitting) mark the position of the first line for the formation of assemblies.

Subsequent lines are placed at a distance of 0.8-1 cm. The distance between the lines for the formation of puffs or for elastic is 4 cm.

If the neckline and sprout, the bottom of the sleeves and the waistline are gathered with an elastic band, under the sewn sections, cut out the facings from the main or thin lining fabric with a width greater than the width of the stitching section on 2 cm for hem sections.

Facings with bent cuts are basted on the wrong side of the parts and laid along the marked lines of the line.

The elastic is threaded between the lines and fixed.

If there are puffs along the neckline, sleeves and waistline, facings are not needed.

The lines are laid with a weak tension of the upper threads and with wide stitches. Gatherings are formed by pulling the lower threads, they are evenly distributed, the ends of the threads are fixed.

The facings are cut out with a length equal to the length of the collected neck and sprout, sleeves, waist. The sections of the facings are folded over, basted on the wrong side of the assembled parts and fixed with repeated stitches along the top and bottom stitches for puffs. With this processing option, fasteners must be processed in the left side seam of the blouse and in the seam of the sleeves.

From the oblique strips, they grind and turn the steering wheel, fix it manually along the top row of stitches for the puff. The ends of the roll go into ties.