Tapered trousers for women pattern simple cut. Pattern of women's trousers: sizes, nuances of models, construction. Building a pattern for the back half of classic women's trousers
The construction of a pattern for women's trousers is different from the pattern for men's trousers. And even for children's trousers, a different base construction is used. For example, the waist line of men's trousers is much lower than women's, the seat height, codpiece, etc. will be different.
The basis of the pattern of classic women's trousers, as well as the pattern of a straight skirt, can be used for modeling. Moreover, changes in the pattern for flared or tapered trousers can be made directly on the fabric, adjusting the width during fitting.
It is not difficult to make additions to this pattern to sew summer trousers with an elastic band, trousers with a yoke belt, build different types of pockets, and you can even use it to sew a trouser skirt. This basic pattern may come in handy for sewing children's trousers for a boy or girl with your own hands.
Sometimes you have to build and try more than one pattern before the one appears, using which the trousers will fit perfectly on your figure. Then transfer such a pattern to thick cardboard or oilcloth (film) and use it later to build patterns for any models of women's trousers. This is especially important for obese women, since standard patterns from magazines can rarely take into account all the features of a full figure.
When constructing this pattern, I also focus on non-standard figures, but from practice I know that more or less ideally, the calculation formulas of the patterns are suitable for slender girls who do not have deviations from the figure and height, up to size 46 inclusive.
There are many methods for constructing a pattern for women's dress pants, but they all require adjustment during the first fitting. Don't expect to find the perfect ready-made pattern for your exact figure, so when using any pattern for the first time, leave a large seam allowance.
And yet, when building the base of the trousers, you may find that some lines in this diagram do not match with your pattern. This is normal as you are using your own measurements. Moreover, I drew this scheme "by eye", not really worrying about the visual proportions of the picture.
To build a drawing of a pattern for women's trousers, you first need to build a grid, and to make it easier for you to navigate the drawing, the pattern is made in two stages.
So, draw a vertical line along the left side of a sheet of paper (preferably with millimeter markings) and mark the topmost and left point T. Set aside the measurement of the length of the trousers from it and put the point H.
Now you need to measure the height of the seat, as shown in the photo below, and put this segment on a vertical line, down from the T point. Usually this measurement is 24-25 cm for size 42-44 and 25-26 cm for size 46-48. But you can check it out with the instructions below. Dot I.
This is the point that needs to be clarified. The fact is that almost all the patterns that you find on the Internet offer a different pattern for constructing trousers. These calculations do not suit me, therefore, in the courses of cutting and sewing, I offer my students my own methodology.
So, about the point I. It is designated so because this line will correspond not to the hips, as is customary, but to the buttocks, the most protruding place of the female figure. And the line of the hips will pass a little higher, more precisely, a third of the distance of the YaB. It is calculated according to the formula: YB \u003d TY: 3. Calculate your value and put point B.
Now, from point B, set aside half the measurement of the half-girth of the hips (or a quarter of the volume of the hips) and set point B1. Draw a vertical line from it (up and down) and place points R1 and T1 at the intersections. Now the grid for the pattern of trousers has the main points from which we will look for others. And the first of them will be the point R2. Segment Y1Y2 \u003d POB: 10. Approx 4-6cm.
We will also find the line of the knees and denote it by the point K. To do this, you just need to divide the BN segment in half, into two equal parts.
How to accurately calculate the measurement "Seat Height" (Sun)
The measurement "Height of the seat of the trousers" is very important for the accurate construction of the pattern of women's trousers, so I also offer a photo of how you can remove it without formulas, in a practical way. Tie an elastic band around your waist, sit on a flat chair, and measure from the surface of the chair to the elastic band. Just be sure not to apply a centimeter to the body. The measure should reflect the distance in a straight line.
I also want to add that the modern fashion of trousers is based on a tight fit around the hips, especially since almost all stretch fabrics make it easy to do. Do not make a mistake in the height of the seat, if the measurement is too large, then the codpiece of the trousers will "hang". And it will be impossible to fix this defect. But if, on the contrary, the codpiece will "crash", then it can be cut and lowered lower.
We continue to build a pattern of trousers
Now more complex calculations will begin, the drawing will have a lot of symbols and lines, so the diagrams and letters of the front and back will be made in different colors.
So, let's find the ironing line (arrows), it is on it that the tuck of the front half of the trousers will be located. To do this, you need to divide the segment RJ2 by 2 and put the point R0. All points with "zero" have a value of zero and are located in the middle of the front leg.
Lower a vertical line from it up and down and put points H0, K0 (knee line), T0 (waist).
Now you need to slightly lower the waistline from point T1. T1T2 = 1-1.5 cm, depending on the protrusion of the abdomen. With a protruding belly, the waistline drops lower (1.5 cm).
In addition, the new T2 point should immediately be shifted to the left by 0.5-1 cm, but only if the difference in measurements (full measurement) of the waist and hips is more than 20 cm. If the difference is smaller, it does not need to be shifted.
Well, now you need to calculate the offset of the side seam along the waistline to the right, which is indicated by point T3. And at the same time, designate a tuck on the front half of women's trousers.
From the new position of the T2 point (if any), lay off the area calculated by the formula: (POT + Fri): 2 + 2-2.5 cm (tuck solution). Depth of tuck 10-12 cm. Draw the upper waist line of the front half of the trousers, just pay attention to how it is done on my pattern. You need to draw it also smoothly, and slightly bending down. In the tuck area, the line needs to be slightly raised up. If this area on the pattern is even, then when sewing the tuck, it will definitely become below the waist line.
Now let's draw a codpiece line, just draw it, because no formulas are needed. Take a pattern (a special tailor's tool) and "lay" it between the points B1Y2. Circle the pattern when it more or less correctly "lies" and as a result you can connect these points with an almost perfect concave line without any extra calculations. In any case, this area can be adjusted during fitting. If you don’t have one, draw by eye, focusing on my trouser pattern.
In the same way, we will connect the T3B points according to the pattern or by hand.
We pass to the line of the bottom of the pattern of women's trousers. Everything is very simple here. H0H1 \u003d H0H2 according to the formula: (bottom width) WN: 2 - 1 cm.
If the width of the trousers at the knee is known, then we calculate using the same formula, only for measuring the knee. We connect points B, H1 with a straight line. At the intersection with the knee, we put the point K1, followed by K2. K1K0=K0K2.
Well, the last stage of building a pattern for the front half of women's trousers. We need to draw lines YAK1 and Y2K2. First, connect them with straight lines, and then step back in the center of each of them 0.5-1 cm and draw their smooth contours.
To mark the lines of the pattern of the back half of the trousers, blue was used. The points are plotted in red on the drawing.
Let's first put point B2, according to the formula: BB2 \u003d (PB: 10) - 1.5 cm.
Next, mark the points K3 and K4 using the following calculation: K1K3=K2K4=2cm. Similarly, for points of the width of the bottom: H1H3=H2H4=2cm.
We connect the points H3 and K3, then K3 and B2 with straight lines. At the same time, from point K3, through point B2, continue a straight line upwards (above the waist). And pay attention, the new point T4 is just above the waist line. This is determined after when you measure the segment BT3 and set aside this distance from point B2 to point T4. BT3=B2T4. It is necessary, so to speak, to equalize these sections, one of which is straight, the other is concave. If you do this approximately, then when sewing both halves of the trousers, this will definitely "come out" in excess.
Let's now turn our attention to the line of the hips and build the key point B3 according to the formula: B2B3 \u003d (FB + Pb): 2.
Then, from the obtained point B3, you need to draw a perpendicular line 3-5 cm long (depending on the shape of the buttocks) and put point B4. Connect Ya1B4 and continue this line up along the ruler.
From T4, from the previously constructed straight line (K3T4), we restore the perpendicular to the right. As a result of the intersection of the two lines, the point T5 was obtained. From the new point to the left, set aside the segment T5T6 = (POT + Fri): 2 + 3-3.5 cm (tuck solution).
Now we need to build a tuck for the back half of the trousers. Divide the segment T6T5 in half, draw a perpendicular line from it, 12-14 cm long and set aside a tuck solution on both sides of it (3-3.5): 2.
Next, outline the outline of the top cut, taking into account the smooth bend and rise of the line to the edges of the tuck, as shown in the drawing of my trousers pattern.
Now let's move on to the knee line. As already noted, K2K4 \u003d H2H4 \u003d 2cm. Therefore, connect the points H4K4 and K4Y3 with a straight line. Next, in the middle of the K4Ya3 segment, put a point and step back from it inside the drawing by 1.5-2 cm and mark it.
That's actually all, the construction of the trousers pattern is almost complete, it remains only to find the point R3 using the formula: R1R3 \u003d (POB: 10) + 3cm. Then, in the middle of the Y3K4 segment, set aside 1.2-2 cm inward. Connect the obtained points with a smooth line. Immediately draw the outline of the line of the K3B2 section (on the other side) in approximately the same way, only 1-1.5 cm must be retreated inward.
A little below the point R3, you need to put the point R4. But in order to determine its position, it is necessary to equalize the resulting segments K2R2 and K4R3 and reflect the resulting difference with a new point R4. We will need it for the image on the pattern of trousers of the last contour - the seam of the seat. The figure shows schematically how to do this using a template.
A simple step-by-step construction of a women's trousers pattern is a great start for those who dream of sewing them perfectly! The basic pattern that we offer you is the basis on which you can model any trousers - capris, jeans, low-waisted, elasticated and even maternity trousers! In order for the products to have a good fit on the figure, you need to take all the necessary measurements as accurately as possible.
To build a basic pattern, you will need the following measurements:
Waist (OT)
Hips (OB)
Knee girth (OK)
Bottom Width (SHN)
Side seam length (db)
Seat Height (from waistline to infragluteal crease) (BC)
Knee Height (VK)
Step length (LS) (on the inside of the leg from the groin to the floor) or DB-VS
IMPORTANT! Measure Step length can also be calculated using the formula: Side seam length minus Seat height.
Estimated values required to build a pattern:
The width of the front half of the trousers (Shppb) (1/4 ABOUT minus 1 cm)
Width of the back half of the trousers (Whzpb) (1/4 OB plus 1 cm plus 0-1 cm for freedom of fit)
ADVICE! To accurately take measurements, measurements should be taken by wrapping the tape tightly around the body, preferably in underwear. The circumference of the waist is measured at the thinnest point of the body, the circumference of the hips is measured at the protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account all the bulges (the "breeches" area), the maximum volume of the hips. The length of the trousers is measured along the side from the waist line to the floor. The seat height is measured while sitting on a chair - from the waist line, a centimeter tape is lowered strictly vertically to the seat surface.
Waist circumference (FROM) - 72 cm 36 18
Hip circumference (OB) - 98 cm 49 24.5
Bottom width (SHN) - 42 cm 21 10.5
Side length (DB) - 106 cm
Seat height (Sun) - 25.5 cm
Knee height (VC) - 56 cm
Step length (LH) - 80.5 cm
The width of the front half of the trousers (Shppb: 1/4 OB minus 1 cm) - 23.5 cm
The width of the back half of the trousers (Shzpb: 1/4 ABOUT +1 cm + 0-1 cm increase in freedom of fitting) - 25.5 cm
¼ Shzpb \u003d 25.5: 4 \u003d 6.4 cm
Construction of the front half of the trousers
Rice. 1 Building a pattern of the front half of the trousers
We start the construction of the pattern from the front half. In the upper left corner, stepping back some distance from the edge, put point A.
Draw vertical and horizontal lines. From point A to the right, set aside the Width of the front half of the trousers: AA1 \u003d 23.5 cm (The width of the front half of the trousers is calculated).
From point A down the vertical line, set aside AB \u003d 25.5 cm (Seat height by measure).
AK \u003d 56 cm (Knee height according to the measure).
AN \u003d 106 cm (Length of trousers on the side).
BB1 \u003d 7.9 cm (1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips by the measure + 3 cm).
Draw horizontal lines from points B1, B, K, H1.
From point A1, lower the perpendicular down to the horizontal line drawn earlier from point B. Points B2 and C are obtained.
В2В3 \u003d 5.9 cm - The step width of the front half, is calculated by the formula: 1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips by measure plus 0.5 - 1 cm. (Note: for tight-fitting trousers, the value of the increase is 0-0.5 cm, for standard - 0.5-1 cm, for free wide - 1-2 cm).
Divide segment B1B3 in half, point B4 is obtained. HH1=B1B4. The arrow line of the front half is drawn through points B4 and H1 to the waist line, points A2 and H1 are obtained.
From the point H1 to the left and right, set aside 1/4 of the width of the bottom of the trousers according to the measurement minus 1 cm: H1H2 \u003d H1H3 \u003d 9.5 cm. Connect the points B1H2 and B3H3 with auxiliary straight lines. Points B0, C1, K2, K3 were obtained.
Set aside 0.5 cm from point B2 to the right. CC2 = 1/2 CC1. Connect the points C1C2 with a straight line.
A1A3 \u003d 0.5-1 cm. Draw an auxiliary line from point A3 through point 0.5 to line C1C2. Draw a line for the bow of the front half, from point A3, through the auxiliary point 0.5 in a straight line, then along the pattern to point C1.
Calculation of the tuck in the front half of the trousers
Set aside from point A3 the segment A3A4 \u003d 1/4 OT plus 1.5 - 2.5 cm for the tuck, plus 0-0.5 cm for the fit. Draw the waist line of the front half of the trousers according to the pattern, lifting the side line from point A4 upwards, it is 0.5 cm.
The location of the tuck in the front half. Divide the distance between points A2 and 0.5 in half. Draw a perpendicular to the line of the hips. Draw a tuck 9-10 cm long and 1.5 - 2.5 cm deep, moving the end of the tuck to the left by 0.5 cm, as shown in the drawing.
Depending on the model, narrow the trousers in the knee area by 0.5-1 cm, drawing a concave line.
ADVICE! Hem allowances are easier to work if the side and crotch lines are perpendicular to the hem line, at least by the width of the hem allowance. Therefore, draw the lines of the side and step seams downwards at a right angle, stepping back 0.5 cm from points H2 and H3 to the left and right.
Construction of the back half of the trousers
Rice. 2. Building a pattern for the back half of the trousers
The construction of the back halves of the trousers is made on the basis of the drawing of the front half.
Set aside 1 cm from point B4 to the right: B4B5 \u003d 1 cm (removal of the arrow of the back half). Connect points B5 and K1 with a dotted line.
From point B5, set aside 6.4 cm to the right: B5B6 \u003d 6.4 cm (1/4 of the width of the back half of the trousers).
From point B0, set aside 4 cm upwards: V0D \u003d 4 cm. (Note: for figures with protruding buttocks, this value is 3 cm, for figures with flat buttocks, this value is 5-6 cm. For wide trousers, they also take 5-6 cm) .
Rice. 3a. Construction of a perpendicular to the segment ГВ6.
Rice. 3b. Construction of the segment Г1Г2
Connect points D and B6. From point B6, draw a perpendicular to the segment GV6 up and down (Fig. 3a). Continue the line of the waist and hips to the left and right.
Next, you should build a segment G1G2 with a length of 25.5 cm: G1G2 \u003d 25.5 (the width of the back half of the trousers is calculated). Draw the G1G2 line parallel to the V6G line, so that the G2 point lies on the hip line (Fig. 3b).
ADVICE! It is much easier to draw perpendicular and parallel lines, subject to certain conditions, along their length using a large triangular ruler.
Rice. 4a. Building a pattern for the back half of the trousers
Rice. 4b. Building a pattern for the back half of the trousers
Measure the distance В5Г2 and set aside the same distance from point В5 to the right: В5Г2 = В5Г3.
The lines of the side and step cut of the back half of the trousers are drawn parallel at a distance of 2 cm from the lines of the front half of the trousers.
Set aside along the knee line from the side seam of the front half of the trousers 2 cm to the left - point K4. Also set aside 2 cm from the step seam to the right - point K5 is obtained. Connect point K5 and point G3 with a straight line.
Draw a straight line from point K4 through point G2 to the waist line - point T is obtained.
The waist line of the back half of the trousers. Measure the distance from K1T and from point K1 set aside K1T1 \u003d K1T so that point T1 lies on a straight line from point B6.
Connect points T and T1. Set aside 0.5 cm from the point T1 to the left: T1T2 \u003d 0.5 cm, connect the points T2 and B6 with a straight line.
Calculation of the tuck in the back half of the trousers
T2T3 is equal to 1/4 OT plus 3 cm (for the tuck of the back half), plus 0-0.5 cm for the fit.
Transfer the length of the side cut of the back half of the trousers from the front half, while the side line of the back half can rise slightly above the waist line. Draw the waist line of the back half of the trousers.
Back tuck at trousers. Segment T2T3 divided in half. Draw a tuck 13-14 cm long and 3 cm deep perpendicular to the waist line.
K5G4 - the length of the step cut of the back half of the trousers is equal to the step seam of the front half of the trousers G4K5 = C1C3 minus 0 -0.5 cm. The seam of the trousers is drawn slightly concave.
Draw a line of the middle seam of the back half of V6G4 according to the pattern.
Rice. 5. Pattern of the front and back halves of the trousers
Separately, transfer the pattern of the front and back halves of the trousers to tracing paper and proceed to modeling the style.
The basic pattern of trousers is the basis for any style, and it is this pattern that you will need to model the model you like. To independently build such a pattern, you need to take measurements, perform the necessary calculations and directly build a drawing. The process is not complicated, but requires certain knowledge and time. However, there is an easier option - download the finished pattern in full size.
Previously, we published skirt and dress patterns, and today we offer you to download a ready-made pattern of trousers for 5 sizes - from 42 to 50! All that remains for you is to print the pattern, choose your size (or close to it), reshoot the pattern on tracing paper and you can immediately proceed to modeling the style or sewing trousers according to the basic pattern - as you like.
How to determine your size
Take your body measurements and compare them with the measurements in Table 1. The main measurement for waist products is Hip Circumference. When choosing the size of the pattern of trousers, it is also important to take into account the measurement of the height of the seat. It is the height of the seat that determines the level of location (depth) of the middle seam. And if the depth of the seam is insufficient, the trousers will be "shallow" and vice versa.
The length of the trousers according to the pattern is about 104 cm. When modeling the style, the length should be reduced or increased.
Compare your measurements with the table and determine the size of the trousers. Then check the selected size as shown in fig. 2.
Rice. 1. Table of women's measurements
How to check a pattern
Sometimes, when printing, due to printer settings, the pattern may be forcibly compressed. It is for this purpose that a “test square” with sides of 100 x 100 mm is applied to the details of the pattern. After printing the pattern, first of all measure the sides of the square, and make sure that the pattern is printed correctly.
Rice. 2. Checking the downloaded pattern
To check the conformity of the size you have chosen (in Fig. 2. size 50), measure according to the pattern:
Waist: X=2(X1+X2+X3+X4),
Hip girth: Y=2(Y1+Y2),
Middle seam length: the distance between points A and B along the line of the middle seam.
Measured value monitoring
Compare the obtained X and Y values with your waist and hip measurements. The X and Y values should be 1-2 cm larger than the corresponding measurement.
Checking the length of the middle seam. Set aside distance AB on a flexible measuring tape and pass a centimeter between your legs from the front waist line to the back waist line. Assess the level of tension of the centimeter tape - it should not cut into the body, but fit freely, giving freedom of movement.
Waist and hip adjustment
What should I do if, when choosing a pattern of your size, the hip circumference does not match the waist circumference?
In this case, you need to adjust the waist circumference when outlining the pattern. This is very easy to do, based on the contour lines of the pattern. For example, if according to your measurements, the hip circumference corresponds to size 46, and the waist circumference is size 44, when outlining the waistline, go to the contour line of the previous size 44 (Fig. 3).
Rice. 3. Pattern outline
How to download and print a pattern
The pattern is given in 5 full size sizes. To download the pattern, just click on the button below. Print the pattern on the printer in full size (730 * 1000 mm) - it is better to do this in a copy center.
The pattern can be downloaded in A4 format broken into sheets (do not correct when printing and print as is). Please note that with such printing and gluing there may be distortions in the dimensions of the pattern, be sure to check the key measurements as described above.
We wish you admiring glances and new creative ideas!
Pants are an essential part of a woman's wardrobe. Not surprising, because it is a very convenient and practical thing that can be worn not only for special occasions or in the office, but also to create a huge number of looks.
In today's article, we will consider a pattern of trousers in a classic style that will suit any figure. They will look equally elegant on a young girl, and on a full elderly woman. Only the latter will need to cover the hips by wearing an elongated blouse or jacket on top.
As an example, the calculation and construction of a drawing of trousers will be carried out on a figure with the following:
Free Fit Distribution (CO)
to measure SB = 1 cm
to measure ST = 1 cm
Building a pattern for the front half of classic women's trousers
1. Draw a vertical line with a vertex at point T, from which put the following values down:
Waist line level: TT 1 = 1-1.5 cm (the value depends on the shape of the hips).
Seat depth: TJ = measure BC = 27 cm.
Length of trousers to the knee line: TK = measure DtK = 58 cm.
Or YaK \u003d 1/2 LH 1 - 1/10 LH 1, where
LH 1 \u003d DsB - VS \u003d 104 cm - 27 cm \u003d 77 cm
Pants length: TN = measure DsB - 2-3 cm (the amount by which in our example the trousers are shortened to the desired length according to the model) = 104 cm - 2 cm = 102 cm.
How to determine the amount by which you need to shorten or lengthen the trousers, see.
The position of the hip line: JB \u003d 1/3 TU \u003d 1/3 27 cm \u003d 9 cm.
Through points T 1, B, I, K, H, draw horizontal lines to the right.
2. The width of the front half of the trousers at the level of the hips: BB 1 \u003d 1/2 (SB + CO) - 1 cm \u003d 1/2 (50 cm + 1 cm) - 1 cm \u003d 24.5 cm.
3. Draw a vertical line through point B 1, at the intersection with horizontal lines we get points T 2, I 1.
4. Step width of the front half of the trousers: I 1 I 2 \u003d 1/10 (SB + CO) \u003d 1/10 (50 cm + 1 cm) \u003d 5.1 cm.
5. The position of the fold line (“arrows”) is determined by dividing the segment YYA 2 in half, we get I 3, through which we draw a vertical line from the waist to the bottom. At the intersection we get points K 1 and H 1.
6. Along the waistline from T 2, set aside to the left a bevel value equal to 0-1-1.5 cm, depending on the value of the waist circumference (the smaller the value of FROM, the larger the value should be set aside) or the shape of the trousers.
T 2 T 3 \u003d 1 cm.
A 0 cm bevel is taken for figures with a belly and for fabrics in a strip or a cage.
7.Building a bow line(middle line): connect B 1 and I 2 with a straight line, divide the segment in half (point A); connect A and I 1, divide in half (point A 1).
Draw the line of the bow of the trousers by connecting the points T 3, B 1, A 1, I 2.
8. To calculate the waist tucks of trousers, find the difference between the measurements of SB and ST, taking into account their freedom of fitting. When calculating, you should also take into account the size of the bevel at the waist, if it was provided (in our example, it was 1 cm for the front and back halves of the trousers).
(SB + SD) - (ST + SD) - bevel \u003d (50 cm + 1 cm) - (38 cm + 1 cm) - (1 cm + 1 cm) \u003d 10 cm
10 cm / 2 \u003d 5 cm - the amount of trouser tucks, which is distributed over:
- 1/3 5 cm \u003d 2 cm - tail tuck of the front half of the trousers;
- 2/3 5 cm \u003d 3 cm - tail tuck in the back half of the trousers.
9. The width of the front half at the waist level: T 3 T 4 \u003d 1/2 (ST + CO) + 2 cm tuck \u003d 1/2 (38 cm + 1 cm) + 2 cm \u003d 21.5 cm.
10. Elongation of the side seam: T 4 T 5 \u003d T 1 T \u003d 1-1.5 cm.
11. The width of the trousers at the bottom level: H 1 H 2 \u003d H 1 H 3 \u003d 1/2 ShN - 1 cm \u003d 1/2 20 cm - 1 cm \u003d 9 cm.
To facilitate the processing of the bottom of the trousers with a hem seam from the points H 2 and H 3, draw up perpendiculars 4-8 cm long, we get O and O 1.
12. Connect the line B and O, at the intersection with the knee line, we get a point from which to the right, set aside 1 cm. Point K 2 is obtained.
Level the width of the front half of the trousers along the knee line (from the fold to the right and left). To do this, from K 1 to the right, set aside the value of the segment K 2 K 1.
K 2 K 1 \u003d K 1 K 3.
Note. The width of the trousers along the knee line is determined by the model, it can be equal to the width of the trousers at the bottom, or it can be more or less, but in any case it should not be less than the girth of the knee, taking into account the increase in free fit.
13.Side cut draw up by connecting points T 5, B, I 4 with a convex smooth line, points I 4, K 2 - with a smooth concave line that turns into a straight line descending to point O.
14.step cut the front half of the trousers is drawn from I 2 to K 3 with a smooth concave curve and further to O 1 with a straight line.
15. The bottom line is drawn from the point H 2 to H 3 with a smooth curve with a deflection in the middle. H 1 H 6 \u003d 0.5 cm.
The bottom line can also be left horizontal: if the fabric is plaid or striped, for fabrics that are naughty when ironing.
16. The tuck of the front half of the classic trousers is built on the fold line with a solution of 2 cm, 8-9 cm long. The sides of the tuck are equalized along the larger side and form a beautiful waist line.
When sewing, you can not grind the tuck, but lay it with a fold.
Building a pattern for the back half of classic women's trousers
1. Expansion at the level of the knee and bottom: K 4 K 2 = K 3 K 5 = 2 cm, H 4 H 2 = H 3 H 5 = 2 cm.
2.Building a seat line(middle line): set aside 3 cm from B 1 to the left (constant value), we get B 2, from which upwards restore the perpendicular B 2 B 3 \u003d 1/10 (SB - 1 cm) \u003d 1/10 49 cm \u003d 4.9 cm.
Connect points I 1 and B 3, extend the straight line up. Measure the segment B 1 T 3 on the front of the trousers and set aside its value from point B 3 up.
B 3 T 6 \u003d B 1 T 3.
3. Deviation of the seat line: T 6 T 7 = 1 cm.
4. Width at seat level: I 2 I 5 \u003d I 1 I 2.
5. Auxiliary points: A 1 A 2 \u003d I 5 I 6 \u003d 1 cm.
6. The seating line is drawn through the points T 7, B 3, A 2, I 6.
7. From point B 3 to the line of the hips, make a notch: B 3 B 4 \u003d (SB + CO) - BB 1 \u003d (50 cm + 1 cm) - 24.5 cm \u003d 26.5 cm.
8. To build a waist line, find the point T 8 at the intersection of two arcs:
- the first from point B 4 with a radius equal to the segment BT 5 ;
- the second of T 7 to the left with a radius equal to 1/2 (ST + CO) + 3 cm tuck = 1/2 39 cm + 3 cm = 22.5 cm
Connect points T 7 and T 8 with a straight line.
9. From points H 4 and H 5, draw up perpendiculars with a length similar to that on the front half of the trousers (4-8 cm), we get O 2 and O 3.
10. Connect B 4, K 4, we get I 7.
Make a side cut through points T 8, B 4, I 7 with a convex smooth line, points I 7, K 4 - with a smooth concave line that turns into a straight line descending to the point O 2.
11.step cut draw from I 6 to K 5 with a smooth concave curve and further to O 3 with a straight line.
12. The tuck of the back half of the classic trousers is built in the middle of the segment T 7 T 8, its opening is 3 cm, length 10-13 cm.
13. Draw a horizontal bottom line through the points H 4, H 5.
In today's article, we will consider a pattern of women's jeans that fit the figure tightly and emphasize its harmony.
This pattern can also be used to build a variety of tight trousers.
Before you start building a jeans pattern, you need to take measurements from the figure. See how to do it right.
As an example, let's use the following dimensional features of a female figure:
Building the front half of women's jeans
1. Draw a vertical line with a vertex at point T, from which put the following values down:
Waist line level: TT 1 = 1-1.5 cm (the value depends on the shape of the hips).
Seat height: TH = measure BC - 3 cm = 27 cm - 3 cm = 24 cm.
Length of trousers to the knee: YK = 1/2 DN - 1/10 DN, where
DN \u003d measure DsB - segment TY \u003d 106 cm - 24 cm \u003d 82 cm
YK \u003d 1/2 82 cm - 1/10 82 cm \u003d 32.8 cm.
Jeans length: TN = measure DsB = 106 cm.
The final length is determined by fitting, see how to do this. 
The position of the hip line: JB = 1/10 measurements of the SB + 3 cm = 1/10 50 cm + 3 cm = 8 cm.
Through points T 1, B, I, K, H, draw horizontal lines to the right.
2. The width of the front half of the jeans at the hip level: BB 1 \u003d 1/2 measurements of the SB - 1 cm \u003d 1/2 50 cm - 1 cm \u003d 24 cm.
3. Draw a vertical line through point B 1, at the intersection with horizontal lines we get T 2, I 1.
4. The step width of the front half of the jeans: B 1 B 2 \u003d 1/10 measurements of the SB + 0-0.5 cm \u003d 1/10 50 cm + 0.5 cm \u003d 5.5 cm.
For very tight trousers, a smaller increase is selected.
5. The position of the front fold of the trousers is determined by dividing the segment BB 2 in half, we get B 3, through which to draw a vertical line from the waist to the bottom. At the intersection we get points K 1 and H 1.
6. The width of the jeans at the bottom level: H 1 H 2 \u003d H 1 H 3 \u003d 1/2 measurements of SHN - 0.5-1 cm (the amount of offset of the side and step sections) \u003d 1/2 20 cm - 1 cm \u003d 9 cm .
For tight trousers, a smaller amount of side and crotch offset is better for visual perception.
7. From points H 2, H 3 draw up:
- auxiliary side line to B;
- auxiliary step line to B 2.
We get points I 2, I 3.
8. To narrow the trousers in the knee area, lay 1.5-2 cm inward from the auxiliary side and step line, points K 2, K 3 are obtained.
9. To build middle line put aside the front of the jeans from T 2 to the left 1-1.5 cm, depending on the value of the waist circumference or the shape of the trousers, we get T 3.
Set aside 0.5 cm from B 1 to the right.
From I 1 upwards set aside 1/2 of the segment I 1 I 3, we get a point a, which we connect with a straight line to I 3.
Draw the middle line through T 3, 0.5, I 3.
10. To build a waist line from T 3, set aside 1/2 measurements ST + 1 cm to the left.
T 3 T 4 \u003d 1/2 38 cm + 1 cm \u003d 20 cm.
From T 4 set aside the top 1-1.5 cm (the length of the segment TT 1), we get T 5.
Make the top cut of the front half of women's jeans as shown in the figure.
11.Side cut arrange by connecting points T 5, B, I 2 with a slightly convex curve, points I 2, K 2, H 2 - with a smooth concave curve.
12. Checkout step cut through I 3 , K 3 , H 3 a smooth concave curve.
Building the back half of women's jeans
The back half of the jeans is built on the drawing of the front.
1. Expansion at the level of the knee and bottom: K 2 K 4 \u003d K 3 K 5 \u003d 2 cm, H 2 H 4 \u003d H 3 H 5 \u003d 2 cm.
If in the drawing of the front half the displacement of the side and step sections was 0.5 cm (see paragraph 6), then the expansion at the level of the knee and bottom will be 1 cm.
Through the points obtained, draw side and step sections parallel to the same sections of the front of the jeans.
2. Set aside 1-2 cm from B 3 to the right to determine the position of the back fold of the jeans, we get B 4.
This value also determines the amount of inclination of the back of the trousers:
- a larger value provides a more direct position of the upper section of the back of the trousers (for flatter buttocks);
- a smaller value means a greater slope of the upper section (for more prominent buttocks).
3. Set aside 1-3 cm from I 2 (here 1.5 cm), we get a 1.
A larger value is set aside when building jeans for a figure with flat buttocks, a smaller one for figures with convex buttocks.
4. Width of the back half of the jeans (Wz): 1/2 measurements SB + 1 cm = 1/2 50 cm + 1 cm = 26 cm.
5. From B 4 set aside to the right 1/4 Shz + 0.5-1 cm.
B 4 B 5 \u003d 1/4 26 cm + 1 cm \u003d 7.5 cm.
6. Connect the straight points a 1, B 5 and draw an auxiliary perpendicular up and down through B 5.
7. At right angles to the auxiliary perpendicular to the intersection with the line of the hips, set aside the value of Shz minus 0.5-1 cm.
B 6 B 7 \u003d 26 cm - 1 cm \u003d 25 cm.
8. Measure the segment B 7 B 4 and transfer the resulting value from B 4 to the right.
B 7 B 4 \u003d B 4 B 8.
9. To build step cut back of the trousers connect B 8 with K 5.
Measure the segment K 3 I 3 on the front of the trousers and set aside the found value minus the amount of stretching of the material equal to 0-0.5 cm from K 5 upwards, we get I 4.
K 5 I 4 \u003d K 3 I 3 - 0-0.5 cm.
Draw a step cut with a smooth concave line.
10. Connect the straight line K 4 with B 7 and extend it up to the intersection with the waist, we get T 6.
11. Measure the distance from T 6 to K 1 and transfer the resulting value plus 2-3 cm from K 1 up to the intersection with the middle line of the back of the jeans, we get T 7.
K 1 T 7 \u003d K 1 T 6 + 2-3 cm.
12. To build a waist, connect T 6 with T 7.
Set aside 0-0.5 cm from T 7 to the left, we get T 8.
The length of the upper cut of the back of the jeans: T 8 T 9 \u003d 1/2 ST measurements - 1 cm + 1-1.5 cm (dart solution) \u003d 1/2 38 cm - 1 cm + 1.5 cm \u003d 19.5 cm .
13. In the middle of the segment T 8 T 9, draw a tuck 6-8 cm long with a solution of 1-1.5 cm (in our example, 1.5 cm).
14. From T 9, draw a small perpendicular upwards and transfer the length and shape of the side cut of the front half, while the side cut of the back half will be above the waist line.
15. Checkout middle line through T 8, B 6, I 4.
16. Checkout side cut through T 10, B 7 a smooth convex curve, B 7, K 4 - a smooth concave curve.
Drawing control
It is important to compare the size on the drawing of the trousers in the Thigh Girth area with the dimension Lunch + 3-4 cm.
Modeling
1. Draw the contours of the pockets in accordance with the drawing.
2. Draw a yoke on the back half and a patch pocket parallel to the line of the yoke.
3. Cut off the yoke, align the sides of the tuck on it and align the top and bottom cuts.
4. Transfer the rest of the tuck on the bottom of the back half of the jeans to the side cut.
5. Combine the details of the trousers and check the pairing of lines. The warp thread runs along the front and back folds of the jeans.
