What elastic band should I use to knit the neckline? Round neckline. Calculation of knitting a round neckline with knitting needles

After you have knitted the item, you need to process the neckline.

For this it is better to use circular knitting needles.

1.Processing the round neck.

Sew the shoulder seams. Insert a needle into each closed stitch, starting from the back. In those areas where the neckline is rounded, there are large gaps between the loops. In these places, cast on additional loops from broaches or from the underlying loop. It is better to knit the first row so that there are no holes. Typically, this type of binding is knitted in the round with a 1 x 1 rib.

Having knitted half of the binding, change the loops in the elastic band (instead of the knit stitch - purl, instead of the purl - knit) and continue knitting. Knit the second half of the binding 2 more rows and finish knitting with an auxiliary thread (4-6 rows in stockinette stitch). Remove the stitches from the knitting needles and iron the edge with the auxiliary thread. Remove the auxiliary thread.

Turn the binding right side out along the row in which you changed the stitches.

Sew on the binding.

The neck of the jacket is tied in a similar way, only in a straight line and with a buttonhole. The buttonhole cuts on both halves of the binding should match when folded. The sides of the binding are carefully sewn together.

If the yarn is thick, then you can knit the inner half of the binding with stockinette stitch, and the outer half with an elastic band.

2. Processing of the V-shaped neck.

When making a V-neck, remove the central loop (or 2 loops) with a safety pin and then make the cut according to the instructions. Sew the shoulder seams. Using circular needles, cast on stitches along the edge of the neckline (start with the back stitches), attach the central loop. Knit with an elastic band 1x 1. Distribute the loops so that there are identical loops on both sides of the central loop. For convenience, the central loop can be marked with colored thread.

In every second round, on both sides of the center loop, knit 2 loops together. The central loop is knitted knit (or purl - at your discretion). Having knitted the binding of the required width, close the loops according to the drawing.

The V-neck trim can also be made as follows: in every second circular row, knit 3 corner loops together so that the central loop is on top (lesson “Decreasing loops”:) The same knitting technique can be used when processing the “bob” neckline. Identical decreases are made in two corners.

Bikes with crossed ends look beautiful. To tie the neckline in this way, cast on the knitting needles with loops from the corner. Add along the edge loop and knit the binding of the required width. Close the loops according to the drawing. Place one end of the tape over the other and carefully sew along the short sides to the edge of the neckline.

Many novice needlewomen, when knitting large items, be it a sweater, cardigan or dress, encounter difficulties in knitting individual elements: armholes, necklines. Knitting the neckline raises the most questions. How to make this element so that the sweater is comfortable, the product does not pull back, and at the same time the neckline looks neat and beautiful.

Cutting options and tying methods

Depending on the sweater model, the neckline may be:

• Round;
• Triangular;
• Square;
• With a boat.

These are the main types of sweater neck shapes; other modifications are possible, depending on the model. Having chosen one option or another, it is important to know how to form the neckline of the sweater and properly process the edge using binding or other framing methods.

How to knit a round neckline?

Knitting a round neckline is possible in several ways. It is recommended to first make calculations or use a step-by-step description of knitting a sweater for which the number of stitches to decrease has already been calculated. Let's consider options for knitting the neckline.

• Having reached the bottom point of the armhole, we begin the front row. We knit a number of stitches equal to 0.45 of the total number (for example, if you have only 100, we knit 45, if 80, we knit 36 ​​(80x0.45);
• We close the central points, their number is calculated using the formula (total number)x0.1, i.e. out of 100 we close 10, out of 80 – 8, etc. These are approximate calculations given for a medium-sized neckline to understand the principle of knitting;
• Next we knit the front row to the end. We turn the work over, knit the reverse side without decreasing until the closed sts. Next, the front row, close 5 sts, in the next knit. In the row we close 4, then -3, 2 and in the last knit. one;
• Next, you can knit a few more rows and then close the stitch on the shoulder edge;
• We knit the neck of the sweater on the right side in the same way, starting from the purl row. This time we close the loops from the wrong side, also first 5, then 4,3,2,1. We knit several rows and close the shoulder.

• We knit the first 45 stitches, then turn it over and knit the row in the other direction;
• Turn over and knit a row without one stitch, i.e. 44 and so each time we decrease 1 point (43, 42, 41 ... 30);
• We close the shoulder stitches, and knit the throat stitches, lifting one additional one between those on the knitting needle;
• We knit 10 central loops and then form the neckline on the other side in a similar way. After closing the shoulder stitches of the sweater, you can immediately cast on stitches for the binding, especially since some of the central stitches are already on the knitting needles. We get it from each side. We knit the binding with an elastic band and then close the rows;
• We make the neckline on the back of the sweater less deep, decorate the knitting with binding and then sew the shoulder seams together with the elastic.

Processing methods

For tying with an elastic band, it is recommended to use smaller circular knitting needles (about 5-1 sizes smaller). We tie the product after the shoulder seams of the sweater are connected. Starting from the seam line, insert a knitting needle under 2 braids of the edge stitch. Every 2, add 1 yarn over so that the elastic is not tight.

To make the neckline neat, you do not need to insert a knitting needle into the transitions between groups of decreased stitches, i.e. First we insert the knitting needle into one lowered one, then into each of the two, then into each of the 3, etc.

We skip the broaches between groups of stitches. Having collected all the loops, we knit rows in a circle with a 2x2 elastic band. We knit 6-8 rows (depending on the thickness of the thread) and close the st.

Method 2

The second method involves sewing a separately knitted binding to the sweater. It is first recommended to measure the neckline using a measuring tape and, depending on the knitting density, calculate the number of stitches for the binding; it should be a multiple of 4 for a 2x2 elastic band.

We knit 7 rows with an elastic band on circular knitting needles, then 2 rows with stockinette stitch. Next you need to attach the binding; it is recommended to use a cattail stitch. Find the middle of the binding and attach it with a pin to the middle of the neck. We also attach the remaining parts of the binding to the neckline and carefully remove the knitting needles.

When sewing on the binding, we first insert the needle into one open loop, pass the next one, bring it out through one, then return to the skipped one, insert the needle, pass it through the stitch of the edge of the cutout and bring it out after 1 stitch. And so on until the end.

To make the binding look more neat, it can be made double; for this we knit not 7 rows, but 2 times more. Sew it in the same way, bending it in half.

Triangular neckline and V-neck processing method

If you choose to knit the neck of a triangular sweater, you need to do the work in the following way:

• When working with a triangular neckline, processing also begins with a set of stitches in the manner described above;
• It is recommended to knit binding for a V-neck with a 1x1 elastic band. It is important to calculate the stitches so that in the lower corner of the neck there are 2 purl stitches, which we will knit together;
• We start knitting from the wrong side with a 1x1 elastic band, reaching the middle of the two central stitches. We knit two into one on the wrong side. On the front side, therefore, it should be front side;
• Next row: having reached the middle (k1, p1, k1), swap the first 2 stitches, the second before work, then knit three into one behind the back wall;
• We knit the purl row according to the pattern without decreasing, and in the front row we knit 3 in 1 in a similar way.

Square or rectangular cutout

A sweater with a square neckline is processed similarly to a V-neck, only in this case there are not 1, but 2 corners. We collect stitches for the binding from the edge stitches, counting them so that there are purl stitches in both corners, for this there should be an odd number in the central part. We start knitting from the wrong side, knitting 2 purls in the corners together. Next, in each front row we combine 3.

Boat neck

Needlewomen process the neck with a boat using various methods. This neckline does not require a decrease in stitches, since the neckline of the sweater is below the base of the neck. The neckline can be supplemented with binding, knitted with 2x2 or 1x1 elastic, garter stitch, or simply close the loops without decorating the neckline in any way. In this case, the edges will curl slightly, which is quite acceptable for a modern boho sweater.

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Beautiful neck treatment (MK)

And so, after the front and back of the product are knitted, there are two options:
- knit the neckline in a circle;
- tie the neckline with the seam.
Whichever is convenient for you.
For example, I took a regular knitted piece.

Using a crochet hook from the wrong side of the working thread, I pull a loop onto the front side, I’m sure
that everyone can do it. Well, if they don’t know how, they will learn very quickly.

In this way, I cast on several loops on the hook (it is very important that the loops are not cast on loosely, i.e., tighter).

Then I transfer these loops to the knitting needle and continue, using a hook, to pick up loops.
I pull out a loop with a crochet hook, throw it onto a knitting needle, etc.

The loops are cast on. Now we knit the first row in such a way that there are facial loops on the wrong side, and purl stitches on the front row. Those. if you knit the neckline in a circle, knit purl stitches. If with a seam - facial ones.

This is what we get.

Then we knit a neckline of the required length.
If this is a lapel, we close the loops with knitting needles or crochet (whichever you prefer).
If it is a stand-up neck, etc. , it is better to close the loops with a needle.

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Quote: “Everything is done correctly until the first row. We knit the first row with knitting needles like this: on the wrong side of the product, the first row is knitted with knit stitches (on the front side the loops will be purl), and then the first row on the front side looks as if the collar is knitted with a needle. Looks like factory products." (from comments from the "Knitters" community)

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How to sew a neckline on a knitted item.

When I started writing, I believed that there was enough information on the Internet about the ketel stitch and its use. But after rummaging around, I found little.

The proposed master class will be all the more interesting for many.

Ketel suture used for attaching small parts (trimming, pockets, trims, collars, etc.) to bases.

In addition, they can be used to close the loops of the last row if a thin elastic edge is required.

The parts sewn with it look very neat. Factories mainly use only this connection method. There are special kelet machines for this purpose.

The technique of the described operation is based on making a seam back the needle, which is used instead of regular machine stitching.

The trick of the lashing operation is that the collar (or other part) is attached to the product “upside down” and what seems to us to be gracefully closed by the last row is actually the first row.

At the end of knitting the collar, several rows are knitted with a hollow elastic band, the loops are opened, the edge of the neckline is inserted between the open “sponges” of the hollow elastic band and a ketel stitch is made. There is also a variation of the ketel stitch - a curly stitch - this is when the loops are double-stitched.

At home, you can completely repeat the factory technology, but you can also make a simplified version, which ultimately looks no worse, and maybe even better for thicker handmade threads.

I only use this method, which I will now show from the very beginning.

All photos can be enlarged by clicking

F.1 It is convenient to work on the neckline when the shoulder seams of the product are sewn, but the side seams are still open. Then it can lie freely on the table.

At this moment, we measure the knitted neckline, after which we calculate the number of loops required to knit the strap.

F.2 The strip consists of an elastic band of the same type that was used to knit the bottoms of the product and ends with several rows of simple satin stitch.

There should be 2 or 4 rows of satin stitch, rarely 6 when the threads are very thin. After which you need to knit 1-2 rows with threads of any different color and close the bar with them. A thread of a different color is auxiliary, it is used for a marking effect, and will then be removed.

Here I can note that the casting of the required number of loops for the strap should be done according to the density of the satin stitch, and not according to the density of the elastic band. This is necessary so that the bar tightens the throat and does not dangle too much width, unless this is specifically intended.

The height of the strap is determined by how much it is necessary to close the neckline knitted in front. The wider the elastic, the more closed the neckline will be.

F.3 The completed plank immediately spontaneously folds into a ring.

F.4 Now it needs to be washed, like all the parts before, laid out in a complete ring right on the neckline of the product and allowed to dry.

You see, using a thread of a different color gives us a clear picture of the edge and it is possible to lay out the bar in a beautiful, uniform ring.

F.5 After drying, sew the strip into a ring. We do this only using the main color. Auxiliary rows of a different color Not sew together.

F.6 After this, we evenly pin the elastic along the neckline

F.7 Basting

F.8 Turn everything inside out and sew with small stitches (regular thread in color) the edge of the neckline to the last edge of the elastic. After this procedure, the inside will look flawless.

F.9 After this, we begin to slowly unravel the auxiliary thread and begin to perform a ketel stitch.

F.10 Ketel stitch, as mentioned above, is a “back needle” stitch. In this case, it is performed using the thread from which the product was knitted.

F.11 For complete clarity, look again at the seam execution diagram - the topmost figure. Three other diagrams show how to close the edges with a kelet stitch: a simple and 2 curly options

F.12 ​​After this, you need to iron the neck with a generously moistened cloth, without pressing on the iron, but mainly releasing steam. Fold the product along the shoulder seams and finally give the neckline its shape. Iron lightly again and let dry.

Some contour lines of the base pattern sometimes do not change after drawing the construction lines. These are the lines of the back and front armholes and the sleeve hem. Therefore for them neck knitting, shoulders, armholes, we recommend using ready-made calculation results.

How to calculate and knit the back

Determine the number of loops in the width of the armhole (segment AB) and divide them into 3 equal parts:

• 3 p.x6 cm = 18 p. (Pg. = 3 p.);
• 18 p.: 3 = 6 p.

If you get a remainder, then add it to the first third, counting from point B.

When knitting the first third of the loops (6 loops, including the edge loop), close in 2 steps:

at the beginning of the front row, close half the loops in a row (3 loops) and knit the row to the end.

Turn the knitting and bind off 3 loops at the beginning of the row. At the beginning of the next (front) row, fasten the second half of the loops in a row (3 loops) and, having knitted the row, fasten the same number of loops at the beginning of the purl row. With a low knitting density, the first third of the loops have to be closed in one step.

Decrease the second third (6 stitches) one at the beginning and end of each knit row: at the beginning of the row, remove the edge stitch, knit the next stitch (regardless of the pattern) and pull it through the edge stitch. At the end of the same row, purl the edge and adjacent stitches together.

Knit purl rows without decreasing. Cut the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the second, but not in each front row, but every other row, i.e. after decreasing (in the front row), knit 3 rows without changes (purl, knit, purl) and only then make another decrease.

Having knitted the lower parts of the armholes, continue knitting the back to the shoulders.

How to calculate and knit shoulders and neckline backrests

The shape of the neck depends on the model. In our example, after drawing construction lines (neck strip), the new neck line is located 2 cm below the main one, the upper edge of the strip ends above the base by 1 cm (this can be seen on the working pattern).

Starting the calculation, connect the ends of the shoulders on the pattern with a straight line and lower the perpendiculars onto it, determining the width of the new neck. Next, do all the calculations on the right half of the pattern.

Measure the width of the new neck (8 cm) and shoulder (12 cm) and determine the number of loops in these segments:

• 3 p.x8 cm=24 p. (half neckline);
• 3 p.x 12 cm = 36 p. (shoulder).

Measure the new slope of the shoulder (it is a little more than 3 cm) and, using the control sample, calculate the number of edges in this value, for example 7.

The number of edges in the slope of the shoulders always corresponds to the number of groups into which the shoulder loops of the dm decreases need to be divided. Therefore, in this version there are 7 groups.

Now you need to find out how many loops are included in each group. To do this, the shoulder loops should be divided into the number of groups (or edge loops). 36 p: 7 = 5 p. (1 p. left).

Add the remainder to the 1st group, counting from the end of the shoulder (if the remainder is greater than one, distribute it by 1 loop to each of the groups located at the end of the shoulder). So, on the shoulder you need to decrease 6 loops 1 time and 5 loops 6 times.

The number of edges in the neck height always corresponds to the number of groups into which the neck loops need to be divided for decreases.

Dividing the neck loops by the number of edge loops, determine the number of loops in each group. 24 p.: 7 = 3 p. (3 p. left). Distribute the rest by adding 1 stitch to the first three groups, counting from the middle of the back. Therefore, on the back neck you need to decrease 3 times 4 loops and 4 times 3 loops. Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

Having knitted the back to the shoulders, finish knitting with a purl row. Mark the middle of the back and the width of the new neck with colored thread. Divide the knitting in half. Transfer the left half to a spare knitting needle, and knit the right half according to the calculation just made.

To do this, on the front side of the work, close 6 shoulder loops in a row and knit a row, leaving 4 neck loops unknitted at the end (place them on a strong cotton thread). Turn the knitting, remove the 1st loop without knitting, and knit the purl row to the end.

At the beginning of the front row, cast off 5 loops in a row, and at the end of the same row, leave 4 more unknitted loops. Now there are 8 unknitted loops on the thread. Continue knitting according to calculation until all shoulder loops are closed.

Thread the neck loops onto a thread (they remain open). After this, break the working thread. Next, knit the left half of the back.

To do this, on the front side of the work, stepping back from the middle of the back 4 loops to the left (point A in the figure), attach a working thread to the knitting and knit the front row to the end.

It is more convenient to string the neck loops on the same thread on which the open loops of the right half are located.

Now there are a lot of ways to knit a neckline and armhole on the Internet, we have collected in this section the most unusual and interesting ones with which your models of pullovers and blouses will be stylish, elegant and fashionable.

The proposed methods of tying the armhole and neckline are suitable for summer blouses knitted with openwork patterns, or those that require delicate and fine knitting.

Processing the neck with a roller

The roller will always turn with the back stitch facing up, so you need to make sure that the back stitch matches the design of your project.
Always knit the bead on knitting needles 0.75-1 mm thinner than the main fabric. The stockinette stitch does not have the same elasticity and ductility as an elastic band, but you need to assemble your product and support it around the neck, which means tighter knitting with thinner knitting needles will help here.
When closing the loops in the usual way, check whether your head fits. But you also don’t need to close the loops too stretched, because the tighter closed loops help the roller to curl nicely inward.
To make the roller look like a roller, it is enough to knit only 3-7 rows.

1. Model Bray . The first row of the roller is knitted with purl loops. Then - in the usual way - facial.

2. Robin model . Enough rows are knitted so that the roller wraps just up to the main fabric.

3. Wheat model . The roller here is crocheted with a thread of a different color, which prevents the roller from wrapping up too much. The roller is also used for the pocket, edges and cuffs.

4. Hybrid model . Just 3 rows of roller create a thin line of a completed look and repeat the fragile lines of the pentagons.

5. Sundial model . Here the roller is knitted in reverse, not with the front stitch, but with the purl stitch and bent to the wrong side.

6. Bewitched model . Not only the neckline, but also the fastener straps are tied with a roller. The roller here also bends to the wrong side.

Processing armholes using the I-cord “Lace” method

The armholes are tied manually using the I-cord method, see the link for the master class and description. It is done like this: a set of loops from the front side along the edge of the entire armhole, turn the product to the wrong side.

1 row is knitted from the wrong side (it forms the edge while simultaneously closing the loops): knit 2, remove 2 loops separately as knit stitches, knit these 2 loops together behind the back wall, slip all 3 resulting loops from the right needle back to the left. repeat first until the last 3 loops remain, then knit 1, knit 2 together, pass through the first. tighten the thread. At first it’s not clear what’s happening, but after 10-12 loops everything becomes clear!

The result is that it looks like a lace of three loops is sewn on with an edging, but in fact nothing is sewn on, and the edge is neat and tight. I noticed that my foreign colleagues never crochet the edges, but use this method. This method works for armholes, necklines, and even front panels.

The loop fasteners are knitted together with the placket. First, plank according to the indicated method, then (when you need to make a loop) knit 3 loops in a circle: i.e. Do not knit the 3rd loop together with the next loop on the jacket, but knit it separately, then transfer 3 loops to the left knitting needle and knit them again, etc. until the required loop length is reached. Then knit the bar again.

Processing neck cuts

Let's consider the method using the example of the neckline and armhole of a sleeveless vest.

1) When knitting the main fabric, decreases along the armholes and neckline should be made at a distance of 1-2 loops from the edge. (Here at the neckline there is 1 loop at a distance, along the armholes - 3 loops). For example, a decrease from the right edge of the canvas will look like this: 1 knit, 2 knit together, then follow the pattern. Decrease on the left: knit to the last 3 stitches, knit 2 together with a slant to the left (most often this decrease is called a simple broach: remove the first loop as in knitting, knit the next one and pull it through the removed loop), 1 knit. This is for classic knitting stitches. Those who knit the grandmother's way will turn the stitches so that on the right you get 2 together with a tilt to the right, and on the left - 2 along with a tilt to the left.
With this method of reduction, the edge is already smooth and neat, which makes it easier for further processing.

2) You need to learn how to beautifully lift the loops along the edges. If the cut is vertical, then raise 3 loops by 4 rows (but this number may differ depending on the knitting density). If the cut is inclined (for example, like the neckline in this sleeveless vest), then you need to lift each loop. The loops are pulled out between the broaches formed by the edge and first loops.
3) Here are the loops on the knitting needle. The first row (front row) is knitted with purl stitches to imitate a kettle stitch. The second row (purl) - also with purl loops. Then a 2x2 elastic band. When the length reaches twice the required length, all loops are closed. The strip is turned to the wrong side and sewn along the loops to the cast-on row (or to the edge loops of the cut being processed).

In this sleeveless vest, in the armhole binding, I made decreases with a corner (as well as on the neckline) so that the binding would not fold or bunch up.

Master class on how to close a narrow neck

I cast on loops from the wrong side of the neckline, view from the wrong side - photo No. 1,

I knit the required number of rows, usually depending on the knitting density, usually 8-12 rows - photo No. 3.

I close the loops in the most usual way, leaving, without breaking, the thread twice as long as the length of the neck. This is because further work will be carried out on the front side and if the thread runs out, it will be very difficult to extend it unnoticed.

I use a needle to hook the loop of the cast-on - photo No. 4 and then I will forge the pigtail formed when closing the loops by both pieces, pull the thread - photo No. 5.

Be sure not to skip loops, so the number of cast-on loops and closure loops is equal.

Knitting the neckline from belochka

I'll show you one more of the binding options I use.
Along the edge of the cut being processed, cast on the loops on the knitting needle with thread in the color of the binding:

For horizontal straight lines, we pull out loops from each loop of the last row, for vertical straight lines and bevels - between the broaches formed by the edge and first loops, pulling out loops in the ratio of 2 loops for 3 rows or 3 loops for 4 rows, depending on the density.
When knitting in the round, we knit the first row with purl stitches (for turning rows, purl row with knit stitches) to form a rib:


For training, it is better to use contrasting yarn for the placket so that you can more clearly see the stitches of the cast-on row on the wrong side. They are slightly “sunk” in the canvas and are difficult to distinguish. But it is necessary to catch them, without missing them, because they tighten the loops on the front side, and the bar ends up looking like it has been pinched.

TO A beautiful way to treat the neck

Pick up the stitches on circular needles, knit a purl row, then two rows of garter stitch and purl stitches.

Crochet neckline from Svet@u

1-2 rows: single crochets;
3rd row: alternate double crochet and one chain stitch;
4th row: single crochets;
Row 5: cross step

Most often I knit 1 row of st. without n. and "crawfish step".

In a pink blouse after a series of st. without n. knitted, alternating 3 tbsp. s n. (with a common top) and 3 ch. Last row: 2 tbsp. without n. alternate with pico.
If the harness is tightening the neckline, use a larger hook.
We tie the neckline in a circle with a pigtail crochet.
This will be the basis for casting on loops from both the front and back.
With one pair of knitting needles we press the loops on the front side, the second pair on the wrong side.
We knit two rows, making a so-called “pocket”.
Third row - we connect the loops from the front and back sides together. And then we knit an elastic band of the required height.
Close the elastic loops with a needle.

Finishing the neckline when knitting with garter stitch

Garter stitch seems to be one of the simplest, but this simplicity is deceptive. When you start. knitting and processing the neckline, you are faced with a serious problem: the peculiarity of this knitting is such that it is very difficult to do the processing in such a way that it looks neat. A step to the left, a step to the right and the rows lie unevenly, somewhere there is a stretch, somewhere a hole has formed. I tried a sea of ​​methods and as a result I found the only option that seemed really successful to me. I did not cover the neck loops, but knitted them in short rows with wrapped loops. I'll try to describe the process, maybe it will be useful to someone. author Gala68

The model, as can be seen in the photo, has raglan sleeves, so the back and sleeves were finished in a straight line, without decreases, leaving the loops uncovered. But in front... On the two halves of the shelves, first I did not finish 13 central loops, leaving them on the knitting needle (their number depends on the thickness of the yarn and the shape of the cutout), and then I knitted them in short rows (without finishing one loop in every second row, wrapping its working thread).

We knit all the loops in garter stitch until the last one closest to the middle of the neckline, remove it without knitting, entwined.

The principle of knitting entwined loops:

1. Thread at work, remove the loop on the right needle.

2. Bring the yarn forward between the slip stitch on the right needle and the next stitch on the left needle.

3. Slip the same stitch onto the left needle.

4. Turn the work over to the other side. The loop is entwined. Continue working in garter stitch in the opposite direction on the following stitches.

After finishing knitting the shelves, collect the open loops of all parts (shelves, sleeves, neck) in order on circular knitting needles and tie the neck. At the same time, when knitting entangled loops, insert a knitting needle under the entrapment and into the loop and knit them together.

With this processing option, the connecting line of the strapping is neat, without holes or irregularities.