Crochet a hat with a brim for a woman. Crochet summer hat for women and girls (patterns, description of work and tips for beginners are included). The easiest crochet hat for beginners

What could be more beautiful and practical in the summer than an openwork hat. It’s not so easy to crochet it, but it’s not at all difficult if you figure it out a little and practice. Therefore, it always makes sense to try to update your wardrobe and collection of accessories.

Hat concept

Before we start crocheting a hat, let's figure out what it is. We know that a hat consists of three parts: the top base, the middle and the brim. Each of these parts is knitted differently.

The top is essentially a round doily. It should expand so that the canvas is in the same plane. A slight protrusion is allowed for the hat since the human head is not flat.

The middle part is a cylinder whose circumference is equal to the circumference of the head. That is why it is knitted without expansion.

The brim of the hat is the most interesting detail. They stand beautifully in a circle from the head, creating reliable protection for it from the sun, rain or wind. But achieving such a state is not easy. Next, we will look at one trick on how to achieve this.

Despite the complexity of working on a product, all its parts are almost always completed without tearing off the thread. Therefore, it is necessary to have some skills to make the hat truly exquisite.

Exquisite hat pattern

Here is a beautiful crocheted summer hat. Its scheme is not so simple at first glance. But upon closer analysis, it turns out that there is nothing complicated about it.

The central part is knitted like a napkin. The number of loops is increased in each row by adding one double crochet to each petal. This part ends with a row of empty cells.

Next comes the middle. With the transition to it, the pattern also changes. Now instead of petals we knit small “crosses”. In this case, you need to pay attention to the fact that the number of loops does not increase. Until the end of this part, the canvas remains unchanged in width.

The last stage is the fields. This is the most crucial moment. Here it is necessary to gradually expand the knitting so that the fields are in a horizontal plane. This can be done if you add one air loop to the arches every other row. This will not affect the appearance of the pattern in any way, and the product itself will take on the desired shape.

And when the product is ready, it turns out that the fields do not want to hold their shape on their own. What to do?

Little trick

Previously, a crocheted hat was starched. But it's inconvenient. And not every woman today knows how to starch. So let's use a little trick. And it's called a fishing line.

Specialized stores have large-section fishing line. It is designed for catching the largest fish. That's exactly what we need. When work on the hat is completed, in the last row we tie the required amount of fishing line using single crochets. At the end of the row, we connect both edges of the fishing line with a thin layer of tape. This will prevent the ends from diverging.

After such an operation, the fields will not fall. If the hat has a very large brim, it makes sense to weave this line several times. It will add additional rigidity to the hat. But now you need to treat it with care so as not to damage the stiffeners, otherwise it will ruin the shape of the product.

White and blue hat with flower

Almost all summer crochet hats have openwork patterns. But they are not always intricate. Sometimes you can create a real masterpiece using one of the basic patterns. In the presented model, both upper parts are connected with ordinary double crochets.

The top is obviously also knitted with a solid fabric, but it is possible that there is a beautiful floral motif there. Although this is unlikely, based on the fact that the main decorative function is performed by a lush guipure flower.

The brim of the hat is tied with regular fans. Only at the base they consisted of two double crochets, and towards the edge their number increased to four. As the knitting progressed, the number of intermediate air loops also increased.

A fishing line is woven into the brim three times to add additional rigidity to the product. This makes sense, since the brim of the hat is very wide, and adding additional reinforcement just at the brim would not give the desired effect.

Children's Panama hat

The brim of a hat does not always have to be horizontal. Sometimes you can let them hang down a little. In this case, we get a Panama hat. This is also a crocheted summer hat. Only there is nothing complicated about it.

It knits easily. First we make the top from double crochets. In this case, we can either do or not do an intermediate air loop. The main thing is that the top is as flat as possible.

When knitting a Panama hat, it is worth remembering that its brim will definitely hang over your eyes. Therefore, you should not make them too large. Otherwise, your child won't see anything. Plus, this can cause the development of strabismus. Therefore, it is better to save a little than to overdo it.

Classic hat

Above we looked at how to crochet a hat with wide brims and openwork patterns. But there is another model that is unusual for this type of needlework. This is what we will now learn to weave.

We create the top in the form of a drop. To form a clear transition from the top to the middle, we knit a row of single crochets in a circle using purl loops. That is, we knit not as usual, but from the wrong side to make a scar. Next, without any additions, we decorate the middle part until the desired depth of the hat is achieved.

The fields are knitted with the same single crochet stitches, but with a gradual expansion. At the edge, a couple of rows need not be expanded so that the margins curl a little towards the top.

But the whole secret of success lies in one trick: the knitting should be as tight as possible so that the product keeps its shape. To do this, take a hook that is not the size indicated on the yarn label, but 1-2 sizes smaller. Thanks to this, the loops will be as tight as possible, and the knitting itself will be dense and resistant to change in shape.

An openwork summer hat with a wide brim is simply irreplaceable in the wardrobe of the fair sex at any age.

Hat first

Knitting pattern

Crocheted summer hats are not only an excuse to do some handicrafts, but also an opportunity to acquire a wonderful and useful item for the summer.

Second hat

Knitting patterns:

A hat will protect your head from the annoying and tiring sun and will add tenderness and femininity to your image.

Hat three

Knitting patterns

Crochet summer hats are a comfortable headwear.
Hat four

The skin of the face does not tolerate prolonged exposure to the sun.

Hat five

You will need 200 g of yarn, a little lurex and hook number 1
Tie a bottom with a diameter of 16 cm according to the pattern.
Then knit with a crown 8 cm high.
And they end with fields 18 cm wide.
Tie the fields with lurex according to the pattern.
Starch the hat and dry it into shape.

6. Original hat, made in one motif

With a wide-brimmed knitted summer hat you can protect your face from the scorching rays of the sun.

Hat seven

A knitted summer hat with a wide brim is perfect for a trip to the beach or will protect you from the scorching sun while walking around the city.

Hat eight

Hat 9

Hat 10

Yarn Trinity Astra (610m/100g) 100% mercerized cotton.
Knitted on top, pancake approximately according to this pattern

You can knit not 6 wedges with increases in each row, but 12 wedges, two increases in each wedge through the row.

Knit the crown according to the pattern

After the pattern, we knit a finishing strip for the ribbon.
Two rows *st.b.n., chain stitch*, in the second row st.b.n. knit over the chain stitch of the previous row.
A row of columns СС2Н, and two more rows *st.b.n., air*.

Fields knit dc, 24 wedges, one increase per wedge.
Tie regilin into the edge.

11. Hat knitted from 200 g of mixed tape yarn, hook No. 4, wire
1.5 mm in diameter Be sure to tie a sample.

Work begins with a bottom with a diameter of 15 cm.
Then knit a crown 7 cm high according to the pattern.
And they end with fields.
To impart rigidity to the field, wire is laid in the last row of single crochets.

Two hats knitted with one pattern:

. Red hat. This extravagant hat is not difficult to knit at all. Even those who are just starting to master crocheting will be able to add such an accessory to their summer wardrobe.
Size 54-56.
You will need: 120 g x/6 red yarn; hook No. 2; wire with a diameter of 3 mm.
The dimensions of the product are shown in Fig. 8. Start working according to pattern 8, after the 8th row (the diameter of the bottom should be equal to
15 cm) knit 5 more rows straight without adding. Depending on the knitting density, the number of rows with
increments can be increased or decreased. Next, make 3 rows of sc around the perimeter of the crown, then proceed
to knitting fields. To expand, divide the circle into 8 parts and make increases as shown in diagram 8 a.
Knit in this way until the brim width is 21 cm. In order for the hat to keep its shape, it is necessary
When tying the fields along the edge next to the sc, lay the wire along the working row and knit the sc around the wire.
Decorate the finished hat with a brooch.

May 15, 2016 Galinka

Summer crocheted hats with flowers - many patterns, ideas and designs

Here are collected diagrams of beautiful openwork hats and color schemes for them. There is also material on how to starch and dry these hats.





Thread - begonia, hook 2.1. 1 skein was enough.
I'll try to write how I knitted (from memory)
I knitted a strip of fillet mesh around the circumference of my head (4 rows) - in a circle - this is how the bandage turned out
Then I attached the thread and knitted the strip on top with fillet. I tried it on my daughter. The holes were large. I tied them with fans, but at the same time adjusted the pattern so that it did not expand, but vice versa
Fields:
When moving to the brim, I knitted 1 row of sc (I always knit 2-3 rows of sc, but here I didn’t knit it and the hat doesn’t fit so tightly to the head - I did this deliberately so that the hat would be looser at sea)
then 3 rows of arches from 5th century. P.
And then fans according to your favorite pattern

Then I tied a double ring of regilina sc, then in a crawfish step.

Hat “Little Lady”



diagram and description of the side part



Diagram of the bottom and crown for exhaust gas 49-50 cm.

My yarn


My connected 13 rows of the bottom:


Up to the 13th row inclusive, we knit the same for all sizes.
* * *
ATTENTION:
When knitting a pattern in those places where we stick the hook into the post, it is advisable to use the “deep” sticking method. The hook must be inserted not under the two upper half-loops of the column, but into the body of the column itself. This method will not allow the pattern to shift when we knit with the crown.
* * *
Starting from the 15th row for all sizes we knit according to the pattern. Repeat rows 15-20 two more times.
They differ from the 15-20th only in the last row. Instead of a dc, I knitted a sc.
We also knit rows 33-38 according to the pattern.
38th row - RLS in each column.
The fields start from the 39th row.

We finish with the CROWN and insert the FIRST regelin equal to the circumference of the head. I made one vein. This is where we complete the work of the RLS. Steam.

We knit the BRIMS of the hat.
In the 39th row we make increases in every 3rd column,
In the 45th row - every 4th, in the 51st - every 5th.
The point is that in each row with increases you need to add 56 CH (7 reports). That is, in the 39th 168/56 =3, in the 45th (168+56)/56=4, etc.

STRENGTHENING FIELDS.

After the last row of fields is knitted, they need to be steamed well.
On a horizontal table surface, the fields should have the shape of a flat circle.

We take the SECOND regilin (TWO veins at once) and tie it with RLS. The length of regilin is not measured in advance!!! They just cut off the excess later.
We straighten the fields well.
Let's steam!
We tie the same row of RLS again. And we tie the last row with a “crawfish step” through the post.
On a plane, the fields should still be shaped like a flat circle.
Once again we steam the fields with an iron through a damp cloth!!!.
To add rigidity, I used SALVITOSE, which is used in felting.
Air dried.


DECORATION.
It must be removable - on a pin or button.

Knitting daisies is very easy.
Dial a chain of 2 v. n. In the first of them, knit 8 half-stitches and close them in a circle in the 1st half-stitch.

When the whole chamomile is ready, tie each of its petals in succession with connecting posts. This will allow them to keep their shape and not curl.


For the centers of the daisies, make small pom-poms using a regular dinner fork.


We wind the thread around the teeth of the fork. Then we tie it with an additional thread in the middle, remove it from the fork and tighten the knot. Then fluff and trim. Sew to the center of the daisy.

Two daisies are small, and one is slightly larger. For it, the scheme is the same, only for the petals we dial not 7, but 9 v. P.


I made a decoration on a button clasp for bags.
We will need a button and a knitted circle - this is what the daisies will be sewn on:


In finished form:


We attach the button to the hat





Scheme (for petals only):

Designations: the sketched dots on the diagram are the loop that is on the hook; the numbers in brackets are the number of loops that we pull from the connected column (to make it easier to count loops)

Blind (connecting) loop

I knit from Soso threads (50g=240m) with a regular hook No. 1.5 (without a handle)

Step by step photo of the process:
1. We knit 6 single crochets into a sliding loop



tighten the thread and close it in a circle.

2. Grabbing only the back half of the loops, we knit 11 single crochets (1 sc in the first half and 2 sc in the subsequent ones), connecting in a circle.




Half loops of a smaller circle will be needed for the upper petals.

3. We knit arches for the lower petals: cast on 5 air loops (c), skip 3 loops of the circle, fasten to the fourth; repeat 2 more times, fasten the last arch into the loop from which the first arch was knitted.

4. We begin to knit the first lower petal: Cast on 4 stitches. p. If you turn the knitting a little, the back (purl) jumpers will be visible




there is one loop on the hook (shaded point in the diagram), we pull out one loop at a time from the purl jumpers (4 sticks), we pull the last one out from under the arch (outermost stick)



there should be 6 loops on the hook

5. Close the row: grab the working thread and knit loops in pairs on the hook (grab the working thread and pull it through 2 loops, grab the working thread and pull it through the next 2 loops). We have the first row (connected column)



6. If you turn the knitting a little, the purl jumpers will be visible,


We knit one in. P.; we pull out the loops from the purl jumpers (1 on the hook + 5 from the jumpers + 1 from under the arch = 7 loops).



We close the row in pairs.


7. Next, we begin to cut the loops. In the sixth row, we begin knitting from a blind loop (insert the hook into the first jumper, grab the working thread and pull it through the loop on the hook). from further jumpers we pull out a loop and the last one from under the arch



We close the row in pairs.


To finish the first lower petal, we knit a blind loop into each purl jumper, and one under the arch


We make one blind loop in the next arch and begin to knit the second lower petal in the same way as the first. After you tie all three arches, it will look like this


To move to the upper petals, make 1 in. p insert the hook into half the loop of the small circle and knit a blind loop


On a small circle you need to tie 3 arches from 4 in. p (2 arches for petals and 1 for the core)

8. Dial 5 v. p and knit the first connection. upper petal column


First upper petal:


Two petals


We tie the upper petals with single crochets (I laid thin wire along the contour to better hold their shape). The lower petals were tied with stbn (without wire). It turned out like this


Sew on beads, maybe small beads, and admire


Starching caps

1. Wash the cap in warm water (30-40 degrees). I use bleach laundry detergent for white hats and colored laundry detergent for colored ones.


2. Prepare the starch. To do this, pour 2 tablespoons of starch into a bowl and dilute it with 1/2 cup of cold water (to avoid the formation of lumps). Then pour boiling water, about 1 - 1.5 liters, stirring constantly. The mixture should be thick and transparent. Leave to cool.


3. Thoroughly starch the washed hats, squeeze them out (without twisting), removing excess starch.

4. To dry the hats, I use regular inflatable balloons, after inflating them to the desired size.


5. During the drying process, I periodically give the brim the desired shape, and iron the brim of the openwork caps through a layer of fabric.

Handmade accessories are in trend today. Almost every fashionista has a summer hat, lace mittens or crocheted bactus in her arsenal. On a hot summer day, you want to protect yourself from the scorching rays of the sun with a beautiful wide-brimmed hat. Such an accessory will definitely not go unnoticed, and if the hat is made with your own hands, then it will be an exclusive item in a single copy.

Knitting stages

You can crochet a summer hat simply and quite quickly. The main thing is to understand the principle. The model can be laconic, without unnecessary patterns and decorations, made with simple double crochets. Or it can be openwork, with a beautiful pattern and color transition, with the addition of additional decorations, ribbons or flowers. In any case, the process of knitting a hat consists of three main points:

  1. Knitting the bottom (this is a kind of circle, the top of the cap).
  2. Knitting the crown (the part that covers the head, connecting the bottom and brim of the hat). This is the easiest stage. There is no need to increase or decrease loops here.
  3. Knitting is the most beautiful part. They can be wide or very narrow, at the discretion of the needlewoman.

Donyshko

Before you start crocheting a summer hat for women, you need to measure the circumference of your head. On average it will be 55-56 centimeters. This value will be necessary in order to calculate the diameter of the bottom that needs to be crocheted for a summer hat. If the head circumference is 55 cm, then the bottom diameter will be 17.5 cm. It is calculated simply by the formula: head circumference / 3.14 = bottom diameter.

Now about how to tie it. As a pattern for crocheting the openwork bottom of a summer women's hat, you can use the pattern of any napkin. If there is no specific pattern or pattern for the bottom, then it is always knitted according to a certain principle (description by row):

  1. Knit one chain stitch and make 12 double crochets into it (or single crochet, as desired).
  2. This row will double the number of stitches. From each existing column in the previous row you need to knit 2 columns. In the end there will be 24 of them.
  3. We alternate: we knit 1 column as is, we double 1, that is, we knit 2 columns from 1 column of the previous row. The result is 36.
  4. Now we knit 2 stitches as is, double 1, knitting 2 stitches from it. As a result, there will be 48 columns.
  5. We knit 3 stitches as is, double 1 stitch to 60 stitches in a row.

And so on until we reach the desired diameter of the bottom.

Here is one possible scheme.

Tulya

Now is the easiest stage of crocheting summer hats. The crown is knitted with simple double crochets or double crochets without increasing or decreasing the number of stitches. You can choose any pattern for the crown of a crocheted summer hat and feel free to use it without modification. The main thing is that this pattern is in harmony with the brim and bottom of the hat. The crown should be knitted until the required depth of the cap is obtained.

Fields

The fields are knitted for expansion. This is the most beautiful and interesting part of a crocheted summer women's hat. Here you can get creative by using original patterns, making the brim wide or narrow, rounded or flounced. The expansion of the fabric is achieved by increasing the number of loops in each subsequent row. They can be increased as much as you want. Today, wide brims of summer hats are in fashion.

For little beauties, sometimes you shouldn’t get carried away and knit rather voluminous brims, as it will be uncomfortable for them to peek out from under them, and they need to protect their eyesight, and if you really want to be fashionable and the brim of the hat turns out to be wide, then you can pin them up on one side with a beautiful one brooch or flower.

Stylish crochet hat

To create this crocheted summer hat model, you need to prepare a fairly thick beige hat and a suitable hook size. This could be #3; 3.5. And some brown yarn for the lace.

The bottom and crown are simply knitted with double crochets according to the description given above. The fields need to be knitted according to the following pattern.

Then you can twist the lace or braid it and tie it around the crown of the hat.

White crochet hat

For this model you will need white cotton yarn and a size 3 or 3.5 hook.

There is an interesting detail here - the bottom of the hat. It is knitted according to the pattern.

Repeat the last 2 rows of the pattern until the crown of the cap reaches the desired depth.

Then you need to knit the brim of the hat. To do this, knit 9 rows with double crochets, and in each row 5 double crochets are added evenly. The edges can be tied either with a crab step or with simple single crochets.

Openwork crochet hat

For this openwork model you will need light beige cotton yarn and a hook number 3 or 3.5.

The bottom is knitted according to the description given above, and the crown and brim are knitted according to the pattern.

When knitting fields, the number of repeats in the pattern increases due to the addition of loops in the rows of double crochets.

The edges of the hat need to be tied with a crayfish step and a fishing line threaded through them. The hat can be decorated with a matching satin ribbon, threading it between the columns of the last row of the crown, or with a ribbon of a contrasting color and leaving the ends hanging down.

Conclusion

A crocheted summer hat will always look fresh, interesting and stylish. It can be decorated at your discretion with ribbons, brooches, knitted flowers or fabric flowers. The hat can be knitted in any neutral color and, changing accessories, can be paired with any summer outfit.

Previously, it was customary to starch panama hats and summer hats, but modern models do not provide for such a need. If you need the brim of the hat to stay straight, you can insert a special fishing line into it.

If it is necessary for the fields to be curled upward, then firstly, they need to be knitted as tightly as possible, and secondly, after the required width has been achieved, several rows should be knitted without adding, and the last row should be reduced by 2-3 stitches.

In general, use your imagination! The process of knitting itself can bring great pleasure, and with diligence and diligence, the result of the work will delight not only the knitting artist herself, but also those around her.


Thread - begonia, hook 2.1. 1 skein was enough.
I'll try to write how I knitted (from memory)
I knitted a strip of fillet mesh around the circumference of my head (4 rows) - in a circle - this is how the bandage turned out
Then I attached the thread and knitted the strip on top with fillet. I tried it on my daughter. The holes were large. I tied them with fans, but at the same time adjusted the pattern so that it did not expand, but vice versa
Fields:
When moving to the brim, I knitted 1 row of sc (I always knit 2-3 rows of sc, but here I didn’t knit it and the hat doesn’t fit so tightly to the head - I did this deliberately so that the hat would be looser at sea)
then 3 rows of arches from 5th century. P.
And then fans according to your favorite pattern
Then I tied a double ring of regilina sc, then in a crawfish step.

Hat “Little Lady”


diagram and description of the side part

Diagram of the bottom and crown for exhaust gas 49-50 cm.

My yarn

My connected 13 rows of the bottom:

Up to the 13th row inclusive, we knit the same for all sizes.
* * *
ATTENTION:
When knitting a pattern in those places where we stick the hook into the post, it is advisable to use the “deep” sticking method. The hook must be inserted not under the two upper half-loops of the column, but into the body of the column itself. This method will not allow the pattern to shift when we knit with the crown.
* * *
Starting from the 15th row for all sizes we knit according to the pattern. Repeat rows 15-20 two more times.
They differ from the 15-20th only in the last row. Instead of a dc, I knitted a sc.
We also knit rows 33-38 according to the pattern.
38th row - RLS in each column.
The fields start from the 39th row.

We finish with the CROWN and insert the FIRST regelin equal to the circumference of the head. I made one vein. This is where we complete the work of the RLS. Steam.

We knit the BRIMS of the hat.
In the 39th row we make increases in every 3rd column,
In the 45th row - every 4th, in the 51st - every 5th.
The point is that in each row with increases you need to add 56 CH (7 reports). That is, in the 39th 168/56 =3, in the 45th (168+56)/56=4, etc.

STRENGTHENING FIELDS.

After the last row of fields is knitted, they need to be steamed well.
On a horizontal table surface, the fields should have the shape of a flat circle.

We take the SECOND regilin (TWO veins at once) and tie it with RLS. The length of regilin is not measured in advance!!! They just cut off the excess later.
We straighten the fields well.
Let's steam!
We tie the same row of RLS again. And we tie the last row with a “crawfish step” through the post.
On a plane, the fields should still be shaped like a flat circle.
Once again we steam the fields with an iron through a damp cloth!!!.
To add rigidity, I used SALVITOSE, which is used in felting.
Air dried.

DECORATION.
It must be removable - on a pin or button.

Knitting daisies is very easy.
Dial a chain of 2 v. n. In the first of them, knit 8 half-stitches and close them in a circle in the 1st half-stitch.

When the whole chamomile is ready, tie each of its petals in succession with connecting posts. This will allow them to keep their shape and not curl.

For the centers of the daisies, make small pom-poms using a regular dinner fork.

We wind the thread around the teeth of the fork. Then we tie it with an additional thread in the middle, remove it from the fork and tighten the knot. Then fluff and trim. Sew to the center of the daisy.

Two daisies are small, and one is slightly larger. For it, the scheme is the same, only for the petals we dial not 7, but 9 v. P.

I made a decoration on a button clasp for bags.
We will need a button and a knitted circle - this is what the daisies will be sewn on:

In finished form:

We attach the button to the hat

Scheme (for petals only):

Designations: the sketched dots on the diagram are the loop that is on the hook; the numbers in brackets are the number of loops that we pull from the connected column (to make it easier to count loops)

Blind (connecting) loop

I knit from Soso threads (50g=240m) with a regular hook No. 1.5 (without a handle)

Step by step photo of the process:
1. We knit 6 single crochets into a sliding loop

tighten the thread and close it in a circle.

2. Grabbing only the back half of the loops, we knit 11 single crochets (1 sc in the first half and 2 sc in the subsequent ones), connecting in a circle.

Half loops of a smaller circle will be needed for the upper petals.

3. We knit arches for the lower petals: cast on 5 air loops (c), skip 3 loops of the circle, fasten to the fourth; repeat 2 more times, fasten the last arch into the loop from which the first arch was knitted.

4. We begin to knit the first lower petal: Cast on 4 stitches. p. If you turn the knitting a little, the back (purl) jumpers will be visible

there is one loop on the hook (shaded point in the diagram), we pull out one loop at a time from the purl jumpers (4 sticks), we pull the last one out from under the arch (outermost stick)

there should be 6 loops on the hook

5. Close the row: grab the working thread and knit loops in pairs on the hook (grab the working thread and pull it through 2 loops, grab the working thread and pull it through the next 2 loops). We have the first row (connected column)

6. If you turn the knitting a little, the purl jumpers will be visible,

We knit one in. P.; we pull out the loops from the purl jumpers (1 on the hook + 5 from the jumpers + 1 from under the arch = 7 loops).

We close the row in pairs.

7. Next, we begin to cut the loops. In the sixth row, we begin knitting from a blind loop (insert the hook into the first jumper, grab the working thread and pull it through the loop on the hook). from further jumpers we pull out a loop and the last one from under the arch

We close the row in pairs.

To finish the first lower petal, we knit a blind loop into each purl jumper, and one under the arch

We make one blind loop in the next arch and begin to knit the second lower petal in the same way as the first. After you tie all three arches, it will look like this

To move to the upper petals, make 1 in. p insert the hook into half the loop of the small circle and knit a blind loop

On a small circle you need to tie 3 arches from 4 in. p (2 arches for petals and 1 for the core)

8. Dial 5 v. p and knit the first connection. upper petal column

First upper petal:

Two petals

We tie the upper petals with single crochets (I laid thin wire along the contour to better hold their shape). The lower petals were tied with stbn (without wire). It turned out like this

Sew on beads, maybe small beads, and admire

Starching caps

1. Wash the cap in warm water (30-40 degrees). I use bleach laundry detergent for white hats and colored laundry detergent for colored ones.


2. Prepare the starch. To do this, pour 2 tablespoons of starch into a bowl and dilute it with 1/2 cup of cold water (to avoid the formation of lumps). Then pour boiling water, about 1 - 1.5 liters, stirring constantly. The mixture should be thick and transparent. Leave to cool.


3. Thoroughly starch the washed hats, squeeze them out (without twisting), removing excess starch.

4. To dry the hats, I use regular inflatable balloons, after inflating them to the desired size.


5. During the drying process, I periodically give the brim the desired shape, and iron the brim of the openwork caps through a layer of fabric.

MORE HATS AND FLOWERS WITH THEM WITH DIAGRAMS

click on the picture to enlarge