Top winter women's clothing in Rus'. Ancient men's outerwear in Rus'

The creators of clothes in Rus' were called blacksmiths. They constantly came up with new types of clothing, decorations for hats, made patterns, decorated. Clothing was divided depending on the status of the person. The ancient Russian people believed that clothing protects against evil spirits, dark forces, because it has a special power. Therefore, the% Old Russian outfits% had embroidery in the form of a Swastika, Inglia, embroidered with a wooden needle and linen threads.

Outerwear

The upper ancient Russian clothing of men was called a retinue. It was a calf-length caftan of different colors: red, brown, beige, red. The retinue was not supposed to cover the boots and interfere with walking. The main thing that was important for the Slavs in clothing was convenience, practicality, warmth. Depending on the financial situation, the fabric of the caftan was chosen. The princes wore warm clothes with a fur collar and embroidered retinue.

Sheepskin, beaver, rabbit, fox, arctic fox were preferred from fur. The collar was small, barely covering the neck. Basically, they preferred to put a fur collar on their shoulders. There were many buttons, from eight to twelve. Peasants, workers wore simple dresses that had only buttons. In the cold winter, the caftan kept me warm, because I had to work outside all day.

A long cloak-like cape, which was a piece of linen fabric, was thrown over the shoulders. The cape was sleeveless. It was a kind of fashion in ancient Rus'. Men, children and women of different strata of the population wore a cape over their retinue, fur coats of different strata of the population. The cape was distinguished by its cut and the quality of the material. Slavic winter clothing was most often sewn from a casing, that is, from the skin, fur and skin of an animal. If it was flax, then it first had to be grown, harvested, ground and woven into threads and fabric. The Slavs tried to be as close to nature as possible.

Slavic costume for women

As now, ancient Russian women and girls liked to dress beautifully. In women's clothing, small details and embroidery were preferred. It was embroidered along the hem, on the sleeves, around the neck. Boyars, princesses wore rich dresses with sewn-in metal plates, peasant women wore a simple linen shirt with a belt. Women's suit was not only warm, but also showed the status of a woman. Linen fabric was always chosen for dresses and suits, and patterns were embroidered exclusively with red threads, because the red color among the Slavs symbolized health, fertility, fire, warmth, protection.

The women's suit was long, below the knee, with long sleeves. The suit was divided into an upper and lower shirt. The pattern of the costume was simple: cruciform, straight. The dresses were everyday, festive, wedding. For young girls, the ancient Russian women's costume was supplemented with a shoulder strap. A zapona is a large piece of fabric with a cutout in the middle. They wore it over the head over the shirt. Then she necessarily girdled herself. The main elements of women's ancient Russian clothing were beautifully embroidered ornaments, which the girls embroidered themselves, or entrusted the work to a specialist artisan.

Old Russian men's suit

The men of Ancient Rus' preferred to wear woolen things that were wrapped around. A leather belt was worn over the top. Large knit wool fabric. The trousers were wide, tied at the waist, at the knees and at the ankles. They preferred woolen and canvas pants. Princes and boyars wore two pants each. Specialist artisans sewed clothes. But most of the population, including the prosperous, sewed themselves. The collar of the male ancient Russian costume has always been low. The cut of the shirt was the same for everyone. Be it a prince or a peasant. The quality of the fabric, the presence of jewelry and the number of shirts worn distinguished the ancient Russian men's costume of different layers.
Kalyata was always attached to the belt. It used to be called a wallet for money.

Old Russian headwear

Men's hats

The people in Ancient Rus' preferred hats. Fur, felted, woven of various styles.
Usually these were round hats with a fur rim. Any fur was used: sheep, fox, arctic fox. In addition to hats, they wore headbands, bandages and felt caps.

Attention

The princes wore sable skullcaps. They were very warm, especially during long campaigns and during battles.

Women's hats

Headdresses, as well as ancient Russian women's clothing, were varied, colorful and depended on the status and financial situation of the Old Russian lady. Women in Ancient Rus' preferred headbands with sewn-in stones and satin ribbons.

Young unmarried girls could afford to go without a headdress. They loosened curls or braided their hair in a braid, putting on only a ribbon around their heads. Married ladies always went out into the street in a headdress. This was considered a prerequisite. They covered their heads with a large multi-colored scarf. He was so big that he could go down to his toes.

In cold winters, they wore round hats with fluffy fur. Slavs loved to decorate their hats with stones and patterns. A long beautiful scarf was put on over the cap. In the room, church, guests, women did not take off their headdress. Men were required to take off their hats and skullcaps.

Peasant clothes in Rus'

The peasants wore simple clothes with a minimum of embroidery. She was not decorated with stones and ribbons. The peasant caftan was called an Armenian. It was worn over a sheepskin coat, a sheepskin coat. It consisted of a collar and was wrapped up. A peasant fur coat is a dokha. The fur coat consisted of leather, animal fur, which peasant women sewed themselves for their husbands, children and themselves. Women sewed a warm coat for themselves, which was a warm sheepskin coat. For work, everyday wear they wore a long sleeveless shirt. Peasant men wore a sermyaga. Sermyaga - linen cloak. They sewed it from cloth. Despite all its simplicity in pattern and cheap fabric, peasant clothes were very warm and practical.

What is forty clothes in Ancient Rus'?

The magpie is an ancient garment in Rus' that could be worn by both wealthy people and peasants. It was a cover made of velvet, chintz or calico. The magpie was worn over winter outerwear (short coat, raincoat, caftan). Warmed on frosty days, a blizzard.

Wedding dress in Ancient Rus'

Women's wedding attire

Old Russian wedding clothes for women were beautiful, neat, a real masterpiece. This is not necessarily a white dress and a white veil like today. The girls sewed the wedding dress for themselves. They were helped by their mother, grandmother, older sister. Usually the outfit was passed down from generation to generation. The bride's outfit showed the status of her family. The outfit was divided into pre-wedding and post-wedding. The bride's pre-wedding outfit was a floor-length dress with sleeves in dark colors. This was a tradition in Ancient Rus', because it was believed that a girl buries her youth and passes into adulthood. The post-wedding dress was beautiful, bright, a real work of art. They sewed dresses, sundresses from linen, chintz, velvet.

Decorated with beads, ribbons, braid, embroidered beautiful patterns with gold threads. For noble rich brides, the outfit was as luxurious as possible. Decorated with stones, pearls, so it was heavy and weighed up to twenty kilograms. Often weddings were held on the cover, so the bride always wore an expensive fur coat with fur over her wedding dress.

On the head is always a beautiful long scarf, kokoshnik. On the second day after the wedding night, the bride was put on a kiku on her head, which meant that now she is not a girl, but a married woman.
Kika was an open crown, decorated with stones, beads, pearls, braid.

Men's wedding attire

The men's wedding attire consisted of a shirt and pants. Usually the groom's suit was white with red embroidery, a pattern that symbolized happiness, fertility in a future marriage. The groom's shirt was sewn by the future wife. The groom's pants were striped, wide, made of cloth, with pockets. A piece of chintz scarf always peeped out of the pocket, which the bride gave to her future husband before the wedding. This was also a wedding tradition in ancient Rus'. The wedding attire was complemented by a wide red belt made of satin, chintz, as well as a fur coat or caftan.

Russian folk costume and its traditions are increasingly becoming a source of inspiration for contemporary designers. Fashion is constantly undergoing dramatic changes, turning to the past in search of new and fresh solutions. Shirts, skirts, dresses, sundresses are endowed with the features of national outfits that came from the mysterious times of Ancient Rus'. What did the women, men and children who lived in those centuries shrouded in mysteries wear?

Unique Traits

The history of Russian folk costume has been going on for many centuries. Natural conditions, hard field work from dark to dark, religious rites - all these factors influenced the appearance of national outfits. Peasant clothing was characterized by maximum functionality. Shirts, ports, sundresses provided room for movement, did not cause inconvenience, and effectively saved from the cold. Work suits were devoid of buttons, people girded themselves with sashes and used wide sinuses as spacious pockets.

Constructiveness, practicality and simplicity did not at all force the inhabitants of Ancient Rus' to abandon bright colors in their clothes. Ribbons, lace, appliques in the form of squares and rhombuses, embroidery with colored threads were used as decor. Russian folk costume often involved combining fabrics that differ in color. The patterns on the elements of the outfit adjacent to the body took on the function of a talisman that protected from evil spirits. Sleeves, skirts, collars were decorated with an ornament.

Men's clothing in different regions did not differ much, it was characterized by monotony, while at the sight of a women's suit it was easy to guess in which part of the country its owner lives.

Colors and paints

Dyeing of fabrics in Ancient Rus' was carried out using natural dyes. This is precisely the reason for the mysterious popularity of red. Madder in those days grew in almost all gardens, it was this weed that provided the peasants with paint. Therefore, the Russian folk costume evokes associations with red, and not with green. The green silks supplied by the East almost did not penetrate into peasant life, and there were no natural dyes of such color.

In addition to red, white and blue colors were popular, which folk rumor, like red, endowed with protective properties.

Shirts for women

Russian folk costume (female version) cannot be imagined without a shirt. It was worn by representatives of all classes without exception. The product was called a camp, its length was up to the hem of a sundress. In the course were models of original styles with gathered sleeves. They were popular with nursing mothers. Special outfits were created for funerals and weddings, shirts were divided into festive and everyday ones.

The main materials from which this element of women's clothing was created were wool, linen, and hemp. Of particular interest are decorative ornaments that have a special meaning. The drawings most often depicted birds and horses, the tree of life and plant drawings that paid tribute to the pagan gods. Red shirts traditionally acted as a talisman. It was believed that they avert troubles, drive away demons.

Shirts for men

Men's blouses did not differ in particular variety. They were a structure assembled from two panels that covered the chest and back. As a connecting element, quadrangular fabric cuts were used, located on the shoulders. The cut of the shirt remained unchanged, no matter what class its owner belonged to. It was possible to determine the financial situation only by the qualitative characteristics of the fabric. Satin and silk are for the rich, linen is for the poor.

Shirts were worn loose, they were never tucked into trousers. Such things could be made in various colors. Woolen and silk products served as a belt (sometimes there were tassels at the ends).

Shirts for children

The first Russian folk costume for a boy is a father's kosovorotka, a baby that was born was wrapped in it. For newborn girls, a mother's shirt served as such a diaper. When creating children's outfits, cuts of worn things of the mother or father were often used. This was done not out of economy, but for the sake of the belief that the parental force saves the baby from the evil eye.

It is impossible to see the difference in the appearance of shirts intended for children of different sexes - these are absolutely identical blouses, reaching to the very floor. An obligatory decorative element is embroidery applied by the mother's hand. Drawings have always taken on the functions of protective amulets.

The achievement of the age of three for kids was marked by the receipt of a shirt from novelty. Twelve-year-old boys relied on trousers-ports in addition, girls were dressed up in ponevs. In general, the Russian folk costume for children was not much different from the clothes of adults.

Sundresses

When our contemporaries portray Russian folk costume, a women's sundress is most common. Peasant women began to wear this outfit from the 14th century, its final approval in the wardrobe took place only in the 17th century. The appearance of clothing depended on the region of residence, fabrics, colors and cuts differed. The most popular option is a wide fabric panel, gathered with graceful folds, straps, a narrow corsage. A sundress was worn on a naked body or over a shirt.

There were festive and everyday options. The first ones were put on for wedding feasts, church holidays were held in them, and people attended festivities. The dowry of the bride must necessarily include at least ten sundresses made in various colors. The quality of the fabric depended on belonging to a particular class. Silk and velvet are an option for the rich. Such an outfit, generously decorated with lace, braid and embroidery, spoke of the high social status of its owner.

Russian folk costume - a women's sundress - was also interesting for its weight. The holiday versions were incredibly heavy, and the everyday versions weren't far behind. The most common household outfit was called "sayan", it looked like a satin product, assembled on the sides and back. Color solutions depended on age. Older ladies preferred black and blue models, young girls preferred burgundy and red tones.

The peasant woman's sundress told literally everything about her. Does she have a husband and children, what mood is she in (there were even special outfits “for the sadness”).

Kartuzy

Russian folk costume (male version) is hard to imagine without a perky cap. This headdress, which has a visor, reigned in the national wardrobe in the 19th century. Summer versions were made of velvet, plush, cloth. The visors were covered with fabric or leather, made in an inclined, semicircular, straight form. Options for the holiday were decorated with beads and ribbons, flowers (live and artificial).

This headdress won the greatest popularity among retired officials, managers, rural landowners.

Ports

Men's ports were made from pieces of homespun cloth or canvas, a rhombic piece - a fly - served as a connecting piece. Such pants were gathered on the damper at the waist. Russian folk costume for a boy included ports from the age of 12. Color solutions differed in variety, products were made from motley, homemade dyeing, homespun. Higher quality fabrics were used to create "weekend" options, or vertical patterns were used to decorate homespun fabrics.

A little later, pants without a fly, endowed with wider legs, a belt and buttons, became an element of the festive wardrobe. Pockets were also often present. The advent of pants gave ports the function of underwear.

Ponevy

Poneva can be called the great-great-grandmother of the modern skirt. This element of the wardrobe is older than the sundress that appeared later, it was traditionally worn over a shirt, complemented by an apron. The ancient "skirt" was present in the wardrobe of adult women. Russian folk costume for a girl included her only when she reached puberty. Most often, poneva was made of wool and consisted of several sewn pieces of fabric.

Colors and styles depended on the region of residence. There were deaf models, open on the side or in front, hinged, with a seam. Gradually, they were almost completely replaced by sundresses.

Kokoshniki

From the Old Slavonic language "kokosh" is translated as "rooster and hen". Kokoshniks were made on a solid base and could take a variety of forms. Their decorations were very interesting - beads, pearls, beads, brocade. Wealthy ladies wore kokoshniks with precious stones. Kokoshniks cannot be seen when studying a Russian folk costume for a girl, because they were considered the exclusive prerogative of married women. The unmarried wore the great-great-grandmother of today's bandana - the magpie.

The crest of the kokoshnik indicated that the woman belonged to a certain province. In the Siberian region, crescents became widespread. In Kostroma, Pskov, Vladimir - arrowheads. Kokoshniks were regarded as family heirlooms and passed by inheritance to the daughter from the mother, they were necessarily included in the dowry. They were not considered as an element of everyday wardrobe. These hats were intended for the holidays, even the brides wore them at the wedding.

Kokoshniks are also known as a national amulet. They were decorated with symbols of fidelity, fertility.

Shoes

Russian folk costume - for children and adults - includes bast shoes, known as the most common footwear. Bast shoes were festive and everyday, worn at any time of the year with white cloth shoes and linens. The role of fastening was played by ropes wrapping the lower leg crosswise over the onuch. Leather boots and felt boots were available to wealthy peasants.

The dream of young people and the rich was lacquered boots with hard tops in the shape of bottles. Soft tops, collected in an accordion, came already in the 20th century. Women's and men's shoes did not have any special differences.

Modern look

Interest in the history of national costumes and the predominance of ethnic motifs are clearly seen in modern fashion. Do-it-yourself Russian folk costume is created for carnivals, performances. His features are often found in everyday outfits, not only in Russia, but also in other countries.

A striking example of attention to clothing "from the past" is the revived popularity of felt boots. Of course, these products bear little resemblance to their predecessors. Their decorations are leather inserts, bright beads, colorful embroidery. These shoes are also worn abroad. Her popularity is not limited to the Russian Federation. Boots and shoes decorated with floral embroidery, sandals with a wicker platform won special love.

Bright fabrics, made in the style of a Russian shawl, are also held in high esteem by famous fashion designers who are trying to reproduce the Russian folk costume. Flowers act as the main patterns, a large element is located in the center, small details are concentrated at the edges. The level of interest in national lace is high. With its help, fashionable outfits acquire a slight exoticism, mystery, romance.

World fashion owes Russian culture the popularity of embroidery with colored threads, the demand for decorative cord, ribbons and beads. Especially widely known are national applications that are used in women's, men's and children's clothing. In winter and autumn, traditional boyar hats, town scarves, vests with fur trim, sheepskin coats in national motifs are constantly found on the streets.

"Russian" weddings

Weddings in Russian style are in great demand in recent years. Brides dress in white sarafans, painted with national ornaments, put on red kokoshniks. The outfits are complemented by hairstyles based on a classic braid, into which flowers and ribbons are woven. There is no doubt: wearing a Russian folk costume, you will get excellent photos.

Russian national costume can be conditionally divided into the costume of Kievan and North-Eastern Rus' of the X-XIV centuries, the costume of Moscow Rus' of the XV-XVII centuries, the folk costume of the XVIII - early XX centuries. In addition, in each time period, one can distinguish a costume traditional for commoners, and outfits of noble people. Before the adoption of Christianity in the clothes of the ancient Slavs, the features of the Scythian costume (shirts, pants) can be traced.

The main materials for clothing during this period were linen and wool. In the 10th century, under the influence of the new faith, silk tunics, which came from Byzantium, cloaks with red lining, appeared in the costumes of princes and their entourage; tunics, dalmatics, and draped cloaks appeared in the wardrobes of their wives and daughters. The clothes of noble people were made from expensive imported fabrics and decorated with gold and silver embroidery, jewelry, and furs.

In the Petrine and subsequent eras, the costume of the nobility changes greatly and becomes no longer a Russian national costume, but a kind of European one. Only in the peasant and partly merchant environment are the old traditions preserved. Men still wear shirts, ports, zipuns and caftans, sheepskin coats. The women's costume practically does not change either. The main women's clothing continues to be a shirt and sundress.

In different areas, different colors and ways of cutting sundresses were traditional. In the 18th century, they were sewn from canvas and calico of red or blue color and decorated with a central vertical bar made of ribbon, lace, a number of buttons, the same ribbon was sewn along the bottom of the hem, at the top of the sundress, and sometimes under the chest. In the 19th century, sundresses were sewn from chintz, calico, satin, satin and other purchased fabrics, often not plain, but patterned, at the top the fabric was gathered into small folds. Such items of clothing as epancha, dushegreya, poneva and apron continue to be an accessory of the women's costume.

The basis of the women's folk costume of the X-XIV centuries was a long shirt with long sleeves, decorated with embroidery or a strip of fabric in a contrasting color along the neck. They never wore a shirt just like that; they put on a poneva, a zapon or a bib on top. Poneva is a skirt below the knees, consisting of three rectangular pieces of fabric connected at the waist with a belt. Ponevs were usually sewn from bright colored fabric.

The zapona was a straight sleeveless dress with a round neckline, with slits on the sides from the waist down. The zapon was tied with a cord. A bib is a top short dress with short sleeves and a round neckline, decorated along the hem and neckline with embroidery or stripes of a fabric of a different color. By the headdress, one could judge the marital status of a woman. Unmarried girls wore bandages or hoops, and married women covered their heads with a warrior (something like a scarf) and an ubrus (a piece of long fabric that was tied around the head in a certain way).

In the women's costume of the XV-XVII centuries, some innovations also appear, although it is still based on a straight long shirt. A sundress is now worn over it - a kind of dress with a straight bodice with straps and a flared skirt. Peasant women sew it from linen, and noble girls from silk and brocade. In front of the sundress, in the center from top to bottom, a strip of wide braid or embroidered fabric in a contrasting color was sewn. The sundress was belted under the chest. In addition, the outerwear for women was dushegreya - short oar clothes with straps, with or without lining. The soul warmer was sewn from beautiful patterned fabrics and additionally decorated with embroidered braid along the edge.

Merchant and boyar daughters at that time wore a letnik over their shirts - a long straight-cut dress with wide sleeves, sewn to the elbow like a bell, and then simply hanging down almost to the floor. Several wedges were sewn into the side parts of the dress, due to which the clothes became very wide at the bottom. The collar and hanging sleeves were richly decorated with pearls, embroidered with gold and silk. Warm outerwear was a fur coat with long sleeves. Telogreya was a long swinging garment with folding sleeves, fastened with buttons or ties.

An important element of the women's costume was a headdress. Girls do not cover their heads, but decorate their braids with colored ribbons and beads, put hoops or crowns on their heads. Married women wear "kichki" - headdresses consisting of a hoop, a cloth cover and a decorated backdrop. At the same time, a kokoshnik appeared - a headdress with a dense front part of various shapes, richly decorated with gold and silver embroidery, pearls and precious stones. The kokoshnik was tied at the back with wide ribbons, sometimes precious pendants or beads fell on the forehead and temples in front. At the back, thin beautiful fabrics could be attached to the kokoshnik, which fell in folds to the waist, or even to the very floor. In winter, noble ladies wore fur hats, like men's.

Shirts and ports were the traditional everyday wear of commoners in the 10th-14th centuries. Shirts were sewn from linen fabric of various colors or variegated length below the hips with one-piece sleeves. They were worn loose and tied at the waist with a colored cord or a narrow belt. On holidays, the shirt was complemented with embroidered cuffs and round collars.
Ports are men's pants that taper to the bottom and tie at the waist with a drawstring. The traditional shoes of the peasants (both men and women) were bast shoes, instead of socks in those days there were onuchi, strips of fabric that were tied around the feet and ankles. Men wore felt caps on their heads.

In the XV-XVII centuries, the everyday costume of the peasants changes somewhat. So the traditional cut on the neck of a men's shirt moves from the center to the left side, and the shirt itself becomes shorter and gets the name "kosovorotka". Opening clothes appear, fastened with buttons: a zipun and a caftan. The zipun was a cloth dress above the knees, slightly widened at the bottom, with narrow sleeves and a butt closure.

A caftan is an outer garment below the knee length with long sleeves and a high collar. Caftans of noble boyars were usually richly decorated with expensive fabrics, embroidery, braid or galloon. Outerwear for winter was a fur coat, long, with wide sleeves and a large collar lined with sable, fox, hare, arctic fox, squirrel, sheepskin. From above, a fur coat was usually covered with cloth (the peasants used cloth for this, and the boyars used expensive imported fabrics).

During this period, the costumes of the feudal nobility and peasants began to differ more and more, and not only in the quality of fabrics and finishes, but even in the cut of clothes. In the 15th-17th centuries, the wardrobe of noble people included such items of clothing as a feryaz and an okhaben. Feryaz - a caftan of a special cut, floor-length with long sleeves, made of silk or velvet fabric. It was customary to put on a feryaz only on one arm, while tightly gathering up the long sleeve, while the second hung freely behind almost to the floor.

Okhaben was also a kind of caftan with a large square collar that hung down the back and long sleeves tied at the back. Such a caftan was worn on the shoulders. Both of these items of clothing were completely unsuitable for performing any work and were intended only to emphasize the class affiliation of their owner.

Men's clothing

Shirt-kosovorotka

The basis of men's clothing was a shirt or undershirt. The first known Russian men's shirts (XVI-XVII centuries) have square gussets under the armpits, triangular wedges on the sides of the belt. Shirts were sewn from linen and cotton fabrics, as well as from silk. The sleeves are narrow. The length of the sleeve probably depended on the purpose of the shirt. The collar was either absent (just a round neck), or in the form of a stand, round or quadrangular (“square”), with a base in the form of leather or birch bark, 2.5-4 cm high; fastened with a button. The presence of a collar implied a cut in the middle of the chest or on the left (kosovorotka), with buttons or ties.

In the folk costume, the shirt was the outerwear, and in the costume of the nobility - the underwear. At home the boyars wore maid shirt She has always been silky.

The colors of the shirts are different: more often white, blue and red. They wore them loose and girdled with a narrow belt. A lining was sewn onto the back and chest of the shirt, which was called background.

Zep - a type of pocket.

Refueled in boots or onuchi with bast shoes. Rhomboid gusset in step. A belt-gashnik is threaded into the upper part (hence stash- handbag behind the belt), cord or rope for tying.

Outerwear

Zipun. Front and back view

Ports. Front and back view

Andrey Ryabushkin "Commended with a fur coat from the royal shoulder." 1902.

Over the shirt, men put on a zipun made of homemade cloth. Over the zipun, rich people put on a caftan. Over the caftan, the boyars and nobles put on a feryaz, or okhaben. In summer, a single-row was worn over the caftan. Peasant outerwear was Armenian.

The two main types of Russian women's costume are sarafan (northern) and ponyovny (southern) complexes:

Zapona
Privoloka - a sleeveless cape.

Outerwear

Women's outerwear was not belted and fastened from top to bottom. The outerwear for women was a long cloth fur coat, with frequent buttons, decorated along the edges with silk or gold embroidery, and the long sleeves of the fur coat hung, and the arms were threaded into special cuts; all this was covered with shower warmers or body warmers and fur coats. Telogreys, if worn over the head, were called overhead.

Noble women liked to wear fur coats- women's coat. The coat was similar to the summer coat, but differed from it in the shape of the sleeves. The decorative sleeves of the fur coat were long and folding. Hands were threaded into special slots under the sleeves. If the fur coat was worn in sleeves, then the sleeves were collected in transverse assemblies. A round fur collar was fastened to the fur coat.

Women wore boots and shoes. Shoes were sewn from velvet, brocade, leather, originally with soft soles, and from the 16th century - with heels. Heels on women's shoes could reach 10 cm.

fabrics

The main fabrics were: linen and linen, cloth, silk and velvet. Kindyak - lining fabric.

The clothes of the nobility were made from expensive imported fabrics: taffeta, kamka (kufter), brocade (altabas and axamit), velvet (plain, dug, gold), roads, obyar (moire with a gold or silver pattern), satin, konovat, cursit, kutnya (Bukhara semi-woolen fabric). Cotton fabrics (chinese, calico), satin (later satin), kumach. Motley - a fabric made of multi-colored threads (semi-silk or canvas).

Clothing colors

Fabrics of bright colors were used: green, crimson, lilac, blue, pink and variegated. Most common: white, blue and red.

Other colors found in the inventories of the Armory: scarlet, white, white grape, crimson, lingonberry, cornflower blue, cherry, clove, smoky, hare, hot, yellow, herbal, cinnamon, nettle, red-cherry, brick, azure, lemon, lemon Moscow paint, poppy, aspen, fiery, sand, pra-green, ore-yellow, sugar, gray, straw, light green, light brick, light gray, hot-gray, light-prince, tausine (dark purple) , dark carnation, dark gray, worm, saffron, tsenniny, chubar, dark lemon, dark nettle, dark crimson.

Later, black fabrics appeared. From the end of the 17th century, black began to be considered mourning.

Decorations

Andrei Ryabushkin. A merchant's family in the 17th century. 1896
Large buttons on women's clothing, on men's clothing there are patches with two buttonholes. Lace at the hem.

The cut of the clothes remains unchanged. The clothes of rich people are distinguished by the richness of fabrics, embroidery, and jewelry. Sewn along the edges of the clothes and along the hem lace- a wide border of colored fabric with embroidery.

The following are used as decorations: buttons, stripes, detachable collars - "necklaces", sleeves, cufflinks. Cufflinks - buckle, clasp, forged, plate with precious stones. Cuffs, wrists - overhead cuffs, a kind of bracelet.

All this was called an outfit, or a shell of a dress. Without decorations, clothes were called clean.

Buttons

Buttons were made from different materials, different shapes and sizes. The wooden (or other) base of the button was sheathed with taffeta, wrapped around, covered with gold thread, spun gold or silver, trimmed with small pearls. During the reign of Alexei Mikhailovich, diamond buttons appear.

Metal buttons were decorated with enamel, precious stones, and gilded. Forms of metal buttons: round, four- and octagonal, slotted, half, senchaty, twisted, pear-shaped, in the form of a bump, a lion's head, crucian carp, and others.

Klyapyshi - a kind of button in the form of a bar or stick.

Patches

Stripes - transverse stripes according to the number of buttons, sometimes with ties in the form of tassels. Each patch had a loop for a button, so later the patches became known as buttonholes. Until the 17th century, stripes were called patterns.

The stripes were made from braid three inches long and half or up to one inch wide. They were sewn on both sides of the garment. In a rich outfit stripes of gold fabrics. The braid of the stripes was decorated with patterns in the form of herbs, flowers, etc.

The stripes were placed on the chest to the waist. In some suits, stripes were placed along the entire length of the cut - to the hem, and along the holes - on the side cutouts. Stripes were placed at equal distances from each other or in groups.

Stripes could be made in the form of knots - a special weaving of the cord in the form of knots at the ends.

In the 17th century, Kyzylbash stripes were very popular. The Kyzylbash craftsmen lived in Moscow: the sewing master Mamadalei Anatov, the silk and string craftsman Sheban Ivanov and 6 comrades. Having trained Russian craftsmen, Mamadalei Anatov left Moscow in May 1662.

Necklace

Necklace - an elegant collar in clothes made of satin, velvet, brocade embroidered with pearls or stones, fastened to a caftan, fur coat, etc. The collar is standing or turn-down.

Other decorations

Accessories

The men's costume of the nobility was complemented by mittens with leggings. Mittens could have rich embroidery. Gloves (puffed sleeves) appeared in Rus' in the 16th century. A kalita bag was hung from the belt. On ceremonial occasions, a staff was held in the hand. The clothes were girded with a wide sash or belt. In the 17th century, they began to often wear trump- high standing collar.

Flasks (flasks) were worn in a sling. The flask might contain a watch. The bandage is a gold chain sewn to a satin band.

women wore fly- a scarf cut across the entire width of the fabric, sleeves (muffs with fur) and a large number of jewelry.

Notes

Literature

Ancient clothing of the peoples of Eastern Europe. M., 1996
Pushkareva N. L. Women of ancient Rus'. M., "Thought", I999
Ancient Rus'. Life and culture. Archeology. M., "Science", 1997
Kud L. N. Costume and decorations of an ancient Russian woman. Kiev, 1994
Braichevskaya E. A. Annalistic data on the ancient Russian men's costume of the X-XIII centuries.// In the book. Lands of Southern Rus' in the IX-XIV centuries. Kyiv, "Naukova Dumka", 1995
Gilyarovskaya N. Russian historical costume for the stage. M., - L., "Art", 1945
On the Ways from the Land of Perm to Siberia: Essays on the Ethnography of the North Ural Peasantry in the 17th-20th Centuries. Moscow: Nauka, 1989. ISBN 5020099554
Ethnography of the Russian peasantry of Siberia. XVII-mid XIX century. Moscow: Nauka, 1981.
Ivan Zabelin."Home Life of Russian Tsars in the 16th and 17th Centuries". Publishing house Transitkniga. Moscow. 2005

The development of the Russian folk costume has a rich and long history, its components were formed back in the pre-Christian era, in close relationship with the architecture of Rus' and pagan beliefs.

Description of Russian folk costume

Women's Russian national costume is much more interesting and richer than men's, because the idea of the people about femininity, beauty, family values is embedded in the female appearance. In the old days in Rus', the costume was one of the manifestations of folk applied arts and crafts.

The main elements of the Russian folk costume developed in ancient Rus'. The main costume was a long shirt with a straight cut "shirt", which was sewn from homespun dense, with wide sleeves. Usually, a woman wore more than one such shirt (at least one more acted as underwear).

The clothes of a Russian peasant woman consisted of such a shirt, decorated with embroidery, which in Russian folk costume was usually placed on the sleeves, hem and shoulders. From above they put on a plain sundress, as well as an apron. The peasant costume was prepared with great diligence, usually in connection with labor holidays - harvest, haymaking, cattle pasture.

Details of Russian folk costume

A sundress is one of the main details of the folk Russian women's costume. An elegant version of it was worn complete with a shirt, apron, belted belt. Each locality had its own style of a sundress, and the patterns on it, like on other versions of Russian folk costumes, have their own characteristics. In the southern part of Russia, preference was given to red, which had many different shades. Embroidery on sundresses was done with gold threads and pearls.

The most common headdress of the women's Russian folk costume was a dense cap of various shapes, and usually richly decorated with embroidery and stones.

The girls wore hoops (soft or hard) of multi-colored ribbons. If unmarried girls could wear one braid or braided hair, then married ladies braided 2 braids without fail and always wore a headdress.

The beauty and originality, originality and chastity of the folk Russian costume is also reflected in the modern world, so the elements of costumes in the Russian folk style have recently been very relevant in the global fashion industry and are increasingly appearing on fashion catwalks.