Pattern for the base of the skirt, step-by-step instructions for constructing the pattern. The basis of the skirt pattern: detailed step-by-step instructions. Calculation of dart sizes

The famous fashion designer Christian Dior always argued that Any figure can be made attractive with the right skirt style. If a fashion boutique does not live up to expectations, then you should try to sew the product yourself.

A universal option is a tight-fitting and tapered pencil skirt. The pattern for beginners is so simple that even a girl who does not have a special sewing education can handle sewing.

How to choose the right fabric

It's no secret that a pencil skirt suits both slender and plump girls. When choosing fabric, it is necessary to take into account not only the shape of the figure, but also the season in which the item will be worn. its purpose.

Basic Rules:

You should not buy bulk materials (for example, chiffon, georgette). They do not hold their shape well and require the use of lining fabric.
For sewing summer and spring outfits, it is better to use knitwear, viscose, linen, and cotton. For winter - gabardine, velvet, tweed, wool.
Hard fabrics look better on slender hips, and soft textures on full hips.

A pencil skirt is considered an office option, so it is recommended to choose either plain options or a strict checkered one.

The versatile black and white color can be combined with any top.

However, if the product is sewn from bright fabric, complemented, for example, with an asymmetrical frill, then it can look great in a festive look.

On a note! In summer weekend outfits, it is better to exclude monotony and give preference to interesting colors. For the winter, you can sew a stylish leather skirt, complementing it with a fur vest.

Step-by-step instructions for making a pencil skirt pattern for beginners

First of all, you need to really assess your figure and decide on the size: measure the circumference of the waist (WT) and hips (H), the length from the waist to the widest point of the hips (D1), the length of the entire model (D2).

To pattern a pencil skirt, novice seamstresses need to measure the waist, hips and length of the future product.

To get the correct pencil skirt, the pattern for beginners is made on ¼ of the model.

Step by step it will look like this:

A rectangle with a width of ¼ OB + 4 cm and a length of D2 + 21 cm is constructed on a sheet of Whatman paper.
The length D1 is laid down from the top point of the rectangle.
To determine the waist line, you need to divide the OT data by 4 and add 3 cm to the result. The final value is set aside from the upper right corner along the line and put a point T, which is connected on the pattern with a smooth line to D1.
On the lower part, retreat 6 cm from the corner and place a point H, which is smoothly connected to D1.

The pattern is ready. All that remains is to cut it out and apply it to the fabric.

Step-by-step instructions for sewing a skirt

Using the pattern, sewing a pencil skirt will be a simple and quick process even for a novice seamstress. First, you should decide on the size of the material: the width should be equal to half the volume of the hips, taking into account seam allowances, and the length of the cut should be two lengths of the skirt with a small margin for hems.

Fold the fabric in half (right sides facing each other) along its entire length.
Place the pattern from one edge of the cut so that the fold of the fabric coincides with the inside of the pattern. Circle it with chalk. Repeat the same on the second edge of the cut.
Cut out both pieces using tailor's scissors.
Place the two halves of the blanks right sides together, overcast the seams, and then stitch them on a sewing machine.
To decorate the belt, the upper part of the skirt should be folded twice 3 cm inwards and stitched with a zigzag stitch. Do the same steps with the lower part of the skirt, only bend it 2 cm.

This tailoring option is suitable for a simple skirt made of elastic fabric for a slender figure.

High waist pencil skirt

In order for a woman with full hips to be able to afford such a style, she should sew a product with a high waist.

To do this, you will have to make some changes to the instructions described above:

The upper horizontal line of the waist should be raised by 5-7 cm and point T2 should be placed there.
Point T must be shifted to the left by 0.5 cm.
Connect points T2, T and D1 with a rounded line.

Attention for beginners! When cutting fabric for a pencil skirt, it is important to deviate 1.5 cm from the pattern for allowances.

Before you finally sew the skirt, you should do a preliminary fitting and adjust the model to your figure. If necessary, you can sew a wide elastic band into the belt or make a zipper on the side. This will allow the skirt to fit better and highlight even fuller hips.

Skirt with one seam

To diversify your wardrobe, you don't have to buy a lot of different styles of clothes. This can be done using pencil skirts alone, sewn according to the same pattern for beginners, but in different ways.

A one-seam product is the simplest option.

So, By correctly laying out the pattern on the fabric, you can make it easier for yourself to sew a skirt by making it with one seam. To do this, you need to select a cut that is equal in width to the length of the skirt (taking into account the hems at the waist and hem), and the pattern itself should be made not into ¼ of the model, but into half of the model.

In this case, the fabric does not have to be folded in half. Simply lay it out on the table in one layer, face down. Apply it twice along the inside of the fabric and trace the pattern with chalk, while one side line should be common.

All that remains is to cut out the workpiece and the recess formed at the junction of the patterns, indicated by the line T-D1 (or T2-T-D1). This will be the side dart. When sewing the connecting seam, you should sew a zipper into it.

This style has its own variations: you can move the seam from the side back, and so that the dart does not end up in the front center, it can be distributed on both sides, reducing the depth of each dart by half.

Yoke skirt

The product with a yoke looks elegant. It is not so difficult to complete: a simple pencil skirt is taken as a basis (pattern for beginners, described above).

If the element is planned on the front part of the model, then the pattern should be duplicated again on paper, and the required option should be drawn on this copy. Only after this can the material be cut into the required parts.

The yoke can be different in configuration (simple or curly) and in size, but darts (at least partially) will definitely fall into its area. After cutting the pattern, the dart openings are closed on the yoke.

If part of the dart remains on the main fabric, then there is no need to remove it.

A model with a yoke will look great in a high-waisted version. However, in this case, you should not turn up the waist; it is recommended to use non-woven fabric on the inside.

The yoke can also be supplemented with loops that securely secure the belt to the belt. Their length should be equal to the width of the belt + 2 cm for seams.

If you make a model with a frill (flounce), then the junction of the yoke with the main fabric of the skirt is perfect for inserting such an addition. This will help give the product a special charm and hide such figure flaws as the same width of the hips and waist.

Also With the help of a frill, you can lengthen the product even from thick winter fabric, thereby protecting your knees from the cold.

How to sew a skirt without a pattern

Not only real craftsmen can sew an outfit “by eye”, that is, without using patterns or patterns. A pencil skirt is an option when even a novice seamstress can easily cope with the task.

The simplest algorithm of actions is as follows:

First you need to measure the circumference of your hips and decide on the length of the model. The standard length is to the knee or just below the knee.
Having laid out the fabric in one layer on the table, cut out 2 rectangles, where the base should be equal to half the volume of the hips + 2 cm, and the height should be equal to the length of the skirt + 3 cm.
Baste both fabrics and put them on for test fitting.
To determine the curve line from the waist to the hip, it is better to use pins. They usually pin up excess tissue.
After removing the workpiece, use a chalk to mark a line (along the pins) and then cut off the excess, leaving 1.5 cm for the seams.
Now you can stitch together the fabrics and sew in a zipper on the side.
A rectangle is cut out of fabric with a length equal to the circumference of the waist and a width of 4 cm. It should be sewn along the upper part on the inside of the skirt - in this way a belt will be designated.
The lower part of the skirt just needs to be slightly tucked and stitched.

The entire procedure will take no more than 2 hours, taking into account the lack of skills of a novice seamstress.

A professional, of course, will do it faster.

Wrap pencil skirt

Without a pattern, you can make another interesting version of a pencil skirt - a wrap model.

To do this, you need to take a piece of fabric with a length equal to 1.5 times the waist circumference and a width along the length of the future skirt.

Hem the bottom and sides of the fabric rectangle.
Wrap yourself with a piece of material so that one upper corner of the rectangle falls on the right side of the waist, and the second corner lies on the left side. This way we get the desired shape of the skirt. You can use pins to secure the edges of the canvas.
Having determined the middle of the back of the skirt, make a cut to the length of the zipper, which you then sew in.
Separately, cut a rectangle from the fabric (on the bias) with a length around the waist and a width of 3 cm. It must be basted to the skirt (from zipper to zipper), folding the parts with the right side inward.
Fold the second edge of the belt and stitch it, and turn the belt itself over to the inside of the skirt and secure it there.

Any of the styles described above will be an excellent addition to a woman’s wardrobe. You can combine a pencil skirt with various blouses (both tight and slouchy options), elegant or business jackets and vests.

The product can also be supplemented with patch or sewn pockets, and trimmed with decorative buttons. The main thing is that even the simplest model can make a woman elegant.

Useful videos with instructions for sewing a pencil skirt

Pencil skirt. Pattern for beginners - in this video:

How to sew your own pencil skirt:

A classic straight-cut skirt is simply an irreplaceable item for women who need to comply with a dress code at work. In addition, an elegant straight skirt can be included in a cocktail or even evening ensemble.

The straight skirt pattern is the basis for many products. If you modify it a little, you can get a pattern for a pencil skirt, wedge skirts, as well as shorts and culottes. Therefore, it is better to spend time taking measurements and modeling the pattern once. But if you are still too lazy, at the end of the article you can download ready-made straight-cut skirt patterns for sizes 46 (waist 70, hips - 96) and 48 (OT - 74, OB - 100), 50 (OT - 76, OB - 104), with a height of 158 cm.

What you need to sew a straight-cut skirt:

Wool crepe with added elastane 1.4 m * 0.8 m,
Hidden zipper
Button.

How to create a straight-cut skirt pattern on fabric

Well, if you decide to model the pattern yourself, get ready to draw. This technique is good because it can be built directly on fabric folded in half.

First we need to take measurements:

Waist circumference (OT),
Hip circumference (H),
Thigh height (HB),
Product length (Dis).

Let's take for example OT - 66, OB - 92 cm, Diz - 60 cm, value - WB, usually equal to 18 -20 cm, but if you decide to measure it yourself, the picture below shows how you can do it.

Thigh height is most often 18 - 20 cm

So, draw on the fabric, folded in half, set down the length of the product, i.e. 60 cm, and the width equal to 1/4 of the circumference of the hips, i.e. 23 cm. Attention! Leave a margin of 1.5 cm on top for raising the side darts (everything will be described below).

From the top point T (waist line), set the height of the seat down, i.e. 20 cm. Let’s make a mark and designate the resulting point B.

Set aside 10 cm from the fold and draw a dart 3 cm wide and 8 cm deep.

From the dart, set aside 7 cm to the left and mark T1.

From the bottom (point H1), draw a vertical line to the height of the hips (point B2).

Now draw a smooth arc-shaped line from point B2 to point T1. It will be very good if you have a pattern, as it is much easier for them to draw smooth, rounded lines.

The front shelf is ready. Can be cut.

The back shelf is built in a similar way, only the dart should be wider and deeper - width 5 cm, depth 8 - 10 cm. The dart is placed in the same way - 10 cm from the waist line.

The back shelf is drawn on the fabric in the same way, only the dart is larger - 5 cm wide and 10 cm deep

How to accurately calculate dart sizes

In the example above, the size of the darts is calculated using a template - front 3, back 5, but there is a way that allows you to find out the size of the darts with 100% accuracy for any parameters.

So, here it is, this universal formula. You need to subtract the waist circumference from the hip circumference. In our example: POB 46 - POT 33 = 13 cm.

Then, based on the results obtained, the darts are calculated.

Side dart - divide the result by 2: this is 13/2 = 6.5 cm,
Back dart - divide the result by 3: this is 13/3 = 4.3 cm,
Front dart - divide the result by 6: this is 13/6 = 2.17.

Where to place darts on a skirt

Side dart. According to the formula above, the side dart turned out to be 6.5 cm, divide this result by 2, we get 3.25 cm (rounded to 3 cm). This is the distance between points T1 and T2 in our drawing. On the back and front shelf.
Back dart. 0.4 * quarter FOB (half hip circumference). In our case, 0.4 * 23 = 9.2 (we rounded to 10 cm).
Front dart calculated in the same way as the rear.

At the end, raise the side darts up 1 cm, if the amount of darts that we previously calculated is less than 14 cm, smoothly and carefully connect it to the waist line.

Raise the side darts 1 cm up

In case if the amount of darts is more than 14 cm, then side darts need to be raised by 1.5 cm and also carefully connect to the waist line. (In the drawings, the rise of the side darts is indicated by red lines)

How to create a straight skirt pattern on paper

In some cases, it is necessary to construct a pattern on paper, for example, as a template for subsequent clothing models (skirt with wedges or shorts). Now we know how the sizes of darts are calculated and where they need to be placed, which means it won’t be difficult to cope with a paper pattern. I offer a drawing of a straight skirt according to the method of R.I. Egorova, described in the book “Sew easily and quickly.”

Modeling a straight skirt

Measurements: OG = 92, OT = 71, OB = 100

The segment TN is equal to Di (product length) = 60 cm;
TB (hip height) = 18 cm.
Skirt width along the hips: BB1 = Sb (half hip circumference) + Pb (loose fit allowance) = 50 + 1.5 = 51.5 cm
BB2 = BB1: 2 - 1 = 51.5: 2 - 1 = 24.8.

Where to place the darts

Back dart. We calculate using the formula given above: BB3 = 0.4 BB2 = 10 cm. The depth of the dart is 16 cm.

Front dart. B1B4 = 0.4 BB2 = 10.7 cm. Taking into account the features of the figure, you can move the dart to the sides. seam by 3-5 cm. The distance from point B4 to the dart is 4-6 cm.

We calculate the tuck solution using the formulas:

Sum of all darts 14 cm.

Side dart (T5T6) = 7 cm,
Front dart (T9T10) = 2.8 cm,
Back dart (T7T8) = 4.2 cm.

The points at the waist are connected by straight lines to the lower ends of the back and front darts. And the side cuts are made with a convexity of 0.5 cm, not reaching point B2 by 2 cm.

Waist line design: T5T5′ = T6T6′ = 1?5 cm. From points T7 and T8 up - 0.5 cm, from points T9 and T10 up - 0.3 cm. Connect the points on the waist, as shown in the drawing . Inside the darts, the protrusions should be longer than the sides along the axis by 1 - 1.5 cm.

Creating a skirt pattern taking into account hip size

If the buttocks are protruding, then the rear dart opening is increased (by reducing the side dart) and distributed into 2 darts (Fig. 56).

For wide hips, increase the side dart, reducing the rest; if the difference between the waist and hips is very large, then the amount of darts is divided into 4 or 5 (2 each on the front and back halves of the product).

If the hips are narrow, then the opening of all darts is small; and the front dart is often placed obliquely (depending on the shape and model).

Step 1. If you drew on paper, then transfer the resulting pattern to the fabric. And if on fabric, fold it in half, then you can immediately cut it out. Don't forget to leave seam allowances.

Step 2: Baste the sides and front of the skirt. At the back, leave 20 cm open at the top (for the zipper) and at the bottom (for the slit).

Adjusting the skirt to your figure

Step 3: Put on the skirt and use safety pins to adjust it to fit your body. Now sew all the seams and sew in a zipper.

How to sew a straight skirt: fitting

Step 4. For a belt, take a strip of fabric equal to the volume of your waist + 2 cm. 6 cm wide. Fold the strip in half and stitch it to the upper section of the skirt. Sew a button or hook clasp on the waistband.

It is recommended to wash fabrics made from cotton, linen or viscose before cutting to prevent them from shrinking later. If the product combines dark and light fabrics, then when washing, pay attention to ensure that the dark fabric does not fade. The material should be washed at the same temperature at which you will wash the finished product. You can pre-wash the unnecessary shred, pre-stitched around the edges.

In this article we will teach you how to build that basic drawing, on the basis of which you can design any style from the whole variety of skirt styles.

For example, we will use size 48. Using the same principle, you can, by taking measurements of your figure, create an individual skirt pattern.

To construct a drawing we need three measurements:

PO = 38cm,

POb = 52cm,

where Du is the length of the skirt, POt is the half-circumference of the waist, POb is the half-circumference of the hips. You can read more about these measurements in the article Taking Measurements.

In addition to these measurements, we will need to take into account allowances for a loose fit. Depending on the degree of fit of the skirt, various increases are added to the measurements. You can determine the size of the skirt increase using a special table.

For our skirt, let's take the following increment values:

where Pt is the increase along the waist line, Pb is the increase along the hip line.

Now let's start building a basic drawing of the base of our skirt.

The first step in creating a skirt pattern

. Place point A in the upper right corner.
. We set aside the distance to the hip line from point A down the vertical line, which for all sizes is taken equal to 18 cm, and set point B.
. We set aside the value of Du (the length of the skirt, which in our case is 68 cm), from point A down a vertical line, and set point D.

The second step of constructing a skirt pattern

. We draw horizontal lines to the left through points A, B and D and set aside a value equal to POb + Pb = 54cm, put points A1, B1 and D1 respectively.
AA1 = BB1 = DD1 = 52 + 2 = 54cm.
. Draw a straight vertical line through points A1, B1 and D1.

The third step of constructing a skirt pattern

. We set aside to the left of points A, B and D the width of the back panel of the skirt, which is equal to POb/2 - 1 cm and put points A2, B2 and D2 respectively.
AA2 = BB2 = DD2 = 52/2 - 1 =25 cm.
. Through points A2, B2 and D2 we draw a straight vertical line.

The fourth step of constructing a skirt pattern

In this step we will calculate the depth of the darts along the waistline. The total size of the dart opening along the waist line is determined as the difference between the measurements semi-hip circumference with an increase in fit(Pob + Pb = 52 + 2 = 54cm) and half waist with extra fit(Pot + Fri = 38 + 1 = 39cm).

Thus, the total size of the dart opening along the waist line is 54-39 = 15 cm.

The depth of the side darts is equal to half the total size of the dart opening along the waist line, that is, 15/2 = 7.5 cm.

We set aside half the depth of the side darts (3.7 cm each) to the left and to the right of point A2. These will be points A3 and A4.

The fifth step of constructing a skirt pattern

We set aside a distance equal to 1/4 PO from point A horizontally to the left and put point B (the location of the dart on the back panel of the skirt).

AB = 38/4 = 9.5 cm.

The sixth step of constructing a skirt pattern

At this step we will need the size of the dart opening of the back panel of the skirt, which is calculated as follows: a third of the total opening of all darts minus 0.5 cm (15/3 - 0.5 = 4.5 cm).

We set aside half the size of the dart opening of the back panel of the skirt (in our case it is 4.5/2 = 2.25 cm) to the right and left of point B. These will be points B1 and B2.

The seventh step of constructing a skirt pattern

We set aside the length of the dart, which is a constant value and equal to 14-15 cm, from point B down vertically. This will be point B3.
. Then we connect points B1 and B2 with point B3.

The eighth step of constructing a skirt pattern

To determine the location of the dart on the front panel of the skirt, set aside a distance equal to 1/4 PO plus 1 cm from point A1 to the right. This will be point B4.

A1B4 = 38/4 + 1 = 10.5 cm.

The ninth step of constructing a skirt pattern

The size of the dart opening on the front panel of the skirt is equal to 1/6 of the total amount of all darts (15/6 = 2.5 cm).

We set aside half of this value to the right and left of point B4 (1.25 cm each). These will be points B5 and B6.

The tenth step of constructing a skirt pattern

We set the length of the dart of the front panel down from point B4 vertically, it is equal to the value of the tuck opening that we calculated in the previous step, multiplied by 4, we get point B7.

В4В7=2.5 x 4 = 10cm

Connect points B5, B6 and B7.

The eleventh step of constructing a skirt pattern

. We put 3cm (constant value) up from point B2 and place point B3.
. We connect points B3 and A3 with a smooth line, continuing it upward by 1.5 cm, we get point A5.
. We connect points B3 and A4 with a smooth line, continuing it upward by 1.5 cm, we get point A6.

The twelfth step of constructing a skirt pattern

Let’s complete the design of the waist line by connecting points B1 and A6 and points B6 and A5 with smooth lines.

I'll try to explain using my own standards

In order to create a pattern for a straight two-seam skirt, you will need the following marks:
- PO (half waist); i.e. measure the waist and divide by 2. (I have a girth of 80cm, I divide it by 2 = 40cm)
- POb (half hip circumference); i.e. measure your hips and divide by 2. (my hips are 96cm, divided by 2 = 48cm)
- Du (length of the skirt from the waist to the side); (perhaps 50cm)
- Dp (length of the skirt in the middle of the front); (I'll ignore it)
- Ds (length of the skirt at the back); (I will ignore)
- Dst (back length to waist). (I will ignore)
And allowances for loose fitting:
- Fri (increase along the waist line) = 1 cm;
- PB (increase along the hip line) = 2 cm.

Construction of the basic mesh for the skirt drawing.
The grid consists of 3 horizontal and 5 vertical lines.
Horizontal lines: waist, hips and bottom.
Vertical lines: middle of the back panel, middle of the front panel, side line, back dart line, front dart line.

Let me explain: My grid width (where it says “hip line”) will be equal to the half-circumference of the hips 48+1 or 2 cm (I will indicate 2cm) = 50cm

The width of the rear panel (in the drawing on the left) will be equal to BB2 = (Pob + Pb)/2 – 1 cm = ... cm. I have 48 + 2 divided by 2 and subtract 1 cm = 24 cm
Accordingly, the front (in the drawing on the right) is 50 cm (my half hip circumference + 2) -24 = 26
The front panel of the skirt is made wider so that the side seams do not go forward, but go slightly back.

The distance from the waist line to the hip line is usually 18-20 cm, I make 20 cm in all patterns and don’t bother with formulas

That is, we got 4 rectangles on the grid, 2 small (top) and 2 large (bottom)

We determine where our darts will be. It's very simple - these lines go exactly in the middle of each small rectangle. I hope it's clear by now

Now the skirt itself, the back panel of the skirt is highlighted in blue, and the front panel is highlighted in red. The lateral line runs along one straight line

We calculate the darts (the hardest part, at least it took me a long time to figure out...)

The side dart (in the drawing in the middle of the mesh) is calculated (Sb + Pb) – (St + Pt)/2,
I decipher (half hip circumference + increase) - (half waist circumference = increase) I get the following example: 50-41 = 9 divided by 2 = 4.5 cm

That is, the distance from T3 to T4 is 4.5 cm

The back dart is equal to (you may get a different number if the measurements are not the same as mine) 4.5cm divided by 2 +1= 3.3cm
That is, the total width of the dart (its solution) is 3.3 cm, from the vertical line of the dart to the right and left along the waist line we set aside half of 3.3 cm, approximately 1.2 cm each

The front dart is calculated to be 4.5 cm divided by 2-1 = 1.3 cm
This means we set aside approximately 7-8mm to the right and left of the dart line

I also make the depth of the darts the same in all drawings, back 17cm, front 10cm.

Increased side cuts.
From points T3 and T4 we raise the perpendiculars up by 1.5 cm and place points T31 and T41.
We connect points T31 and T41 with a straight line to point B2, divide this segment in half and from the division point along the perpendicular to the left and right we set aside 0.5 cm to form a convex line in the hip area (side seam).
We draw the waist line with a smooth concave line, connecting point T31 to point T and point T41 to point T1.

If anything is unclear, ask, I’m still a teacher! My drawing looks like this (with my measurements)

Statistics show that most women do not start sewing because of the need to create basic patterns. This is the very stumbling block over which intentions are broken and which causes complexity. Some people think that creating a pattern requires a lot of time, others think that this is generally incomprehensible knowledge, which can only be understood by a select few. We intend to dispel all your doubts and give you a step-by-step construction of basic patterns: skirt, dress, jacket, coat and trousers. By following our instructions, step by step, you can easily create any pattern.

Let's start with the simplest thing - step-by-step construction of a straight skirt pattern.

To create a skirt pattern, you need to take measurements:

Skirt length (DYu)………………………72 cm

Waist circumference (FROM)………..72 cm

Hip circumference (H) ……… 100 cm

Step 1-2:

In the upper left corner on graph paper (5 cm away from the top), place point A. Down the vertical line, mark the length of the skirt according to the measurement - AD. To the right - 1/2 of the hip circumference according to the measurement +1cm=100/2+1=51cm - point B. Draw segments DC and BC.

Skirt side line. Divide the segment DC in half, from the division point raise the perpendicular upward to the segment AB.

Step 3-4:

Hip line. From point A, set down 20-22cm - AL = hip length according to measurement. Draw a horizontal line from the resulting point. We received points L1 and L2.

Calculation of darts. Darts are calculated using the formula: (Hip circumference minus waist circumference)/2 = (100-72)/2=14cm. Of these 14 cm, we remove half into the side darts (14/2 = 7 cm) - 3.5 cm in each. From the side line, draw 2 straight segments to points 3.5, extending each one 1 cm upward.

Step 5-6:

Using the dot pattern, connect point A to point 1 (this is the point that was obtained after raising the side lily by 1 cm) and point 1 (another) to point B using slightly curved lines. Divide LL2 in half and from the division point raise the perpendicular to the segment AB. From point B1, move to the right along the red line - 5-6 cm (for all sizes), lower the perpendicular down to the hip line.

Step 7-8:

Final calculation of darts: distribute the remaining excess fabric at the waist (7cm) into the darts of the back and front halves of the skirt - a little more in the back half and a little less in the front, 4 and 3 cm, respectively. The length of the dart on the back half of the skirt is 12-13cm. The length of the dart on the front half of the skirt is 9-10cm. Move the dart to the left 0.5 cm (for beauty).