Step bevel (gusset). How to knit? How to sew straight trousers without pockets and a belt How to join two trouser legs when knitting
After constructing the trouser pattern, you can begin sewing them.
Before cutting the fabric, it must be treated to prevent shrinkage: soak in water, dry and iron, or moisten and iron.
Layout and cutting of trouser parts
1. On the treated fabric, lay out the main parts of the trousers in accordance with the direction of the warp thread indicated on them. The warp thread on the fabric always runs along the edge of the fabric.
After this, additional parts are placed in the remaining gaps.
If the fabric pattern is directed in one direction or the pile has different shades of color, then all the main parts are laid out in one direction.
On fabrics with large patterns, patterns are laid out so as to preserve the pattern as much as possible or to arrange it symmetrically.
On striped fabrics, the middle of all parts should coincide with the middle of the central strip. On fabrics with checks and stripes, the pattern pieces should be laid out so that the checks and stripes coincide at the places where they are connected.
To avoid the pattern shifting from the fabric, it is pinned, then outlined with chalk or soap, marking all reference lines and cut out with seam allowances.
Seam allowances
Along the side and step seams, add 1-1.5 cm for processing. To process the fastener along the bow line, add 3-4 cm to a one-piece facing.
For the hem, the allowance is 2-6 cm. The width of the remaining allowances is 1 cm. On the back half of the trousers at waist level, add 2-3 cm to the middle seam line.
2. Carry out wet-heat treatment of the trouser parts.
Wet heat treatment of trousers (WHT)
Under wet-heat treatment understand the pulling and tightening of individual sections of trousers to give them a shape that matches the contours of the body.
As a result of the OBE, the trousers are tightened under the buttocks and below the knee, that is, their length is reduced. In the area of the calf muscle, the trousers are pulled back, that is, they are lengthened.
For skinny trousers, WTO is necessary to a greater extent than for loose-fitting trousers. It is better not to subject fabrics with stripes or checks to WTO, since ironing and pulling the fabric will disrupt the pattern.
WTO can be avoided on wide or short trousers (it is enough to iron the crease), as well as when using fabrics made of cotton, viscose or silk.
WTO of the front halves of the trousers
1. Both front halves are folded with the right sides inward, aligning the control lines and the ironing lines.
2. At the same time, step and side cuts are pulled down on the two halves at the level of the calf from the knee line. The slack in the fabric formed in this area is tightened to the arrow line.
The bulge in the hip area is slightly squished only for stretchy fabric and steep hips. If the thigh is very convex, then a pull-up is performed in the step area along the arrow line.
If the fabric stretches and when cutting there is a wave along the bow line, then in this area you can stitch it using a machine stitch.
4. Separate the front halves and fold each one along the ironing line with the wrong side inward and lightly iron along the fold.
The step and side cuts are aligned in the knee area so that there is no broken line. You can remove it by lightly pulling or adjusting it with scissors.
The ironing line is further tightened under the knee, and the side and step sections are further stretched. After this, when a beautiful shape of the trouser leg appears, the ironing line is finally ironed.
5. Check the equality of the front halves by placing them on top of each other and aligning the control lines.
WTO of the back halves of trousers
1. The back halves of the trousers are folded together with the right sides inward, aligning the control lines and the ironing lines.
2. At the level of the knee, the side and step sections are pulled back, the resulting slack in the tissue is pressed towards the arrow line.
At the level of the calf, the side and step cuts are ironed, and a pull is made along the arrow line.
Pull back the seat line, while ironing out the resulting slack in the area of the subgluteal fold.
If a bulge has formed in the area of the hip line, then it is ironed out or simply secured with machine stitching.
3. Both halves of the trousers are turned to the other side and all operations are repeated.
4. Each half is folded separately along the ironing line, inside out, aligning the control lines.
A slight pull is performed along the fold in the calf area, and the resulting or remaining slack in the seam area is ironed.
The knee area is tightened along the arrow, and pulled back along the seams.
Squeeze well in the area of the subgluteal fold.
5. Check the equality of the back halves of the trousers by placing them on top of each other, aligning the control lines.
After wet-heat treatment, check the coincidence of the lengths of the step and side sections of the front and back halves of the trousers by placing them one on top of the other.
3. Baste the trousers, do the first fitting, where to clarify:
- the width of the trousers along the waist, hips, knees, bottom.
- length of trousers and depth of seat line
- correct position of the ironing line
- location of darts and their depth
- location of pockets
- belt position
After trying on the trousers, unroll the trousers; if you need to complete the WTO of all halves separately, check their equality and finally iron the ironing line.
4. Baste and stitch the waist darts on the front and back halves of the trousers, iron them towards the middle. At the end of the darts, carefully iron out the resulting slack.
5. Pockets are processed on the main parts:
See pocket location options.
6. Overcast all sections of the main parts, except for the waist line.
7. The waistline in each half of the trousers is secured against stretching by laying a fine stitch or glued with a strip of non-woven fabric.
8. Prepare the bottom of the trousers for sewing the instep and side seams. If you have a regular hem at the bottom, you can immediately glue the inside of the hem and its seam allowance, and if you have a hem with a cuff, you can glue it depending on the type of cuff.
9. Baste and stitch the side edges. Fold the front and back halves of the trousers with the right sides inward, aligning the lines of the hip, step and knee.
Sweep the side cuts along the back half of the trousers from the knee up and down, and grind along the front from the waist to the bottom, pulling well. The seam is ironed.
If finishing stitching is done along the side seams of the trousers, then the sections are ironed to the front halves.
10. Baste and stitch the step sections. Fold the front and back halves of the trousers right sides together, aligning the knee line.
Sew the step cuts along the back half of the trousers from the knee up and down, and stitch along the front, pulling the seam from the bow line to the knee and below. The seam is ironed.
11. Process and stitch the bow line at the same time.
12. Baste and stitch the seat sections. Fold the left and right halves of the trousers with the right sides inward, aligning the control notches along the fastening line on the front halves, the instep and side seams.
Baste and stitch in two lines, laying the second line at a distance of 0.1 cm from the first, while pulling the seam back.
The seam of the seat is ironed from the waist line without reaching the very bottom.
13. Belt loops are being prepared.
Fold the strip of fabric along the middle with the right side facing inward, align the cuts and stitch them.
Turn the piece right side out, place the seam on the inside in the middle and press. If desired, sew stitches along the edges of the belt loop piece. Cut the belt loop piece into six pieces.
The belt loops are placed two on the front of the trousers (between the folds and above the side pockets) and one on the back (above the darts at the waist).
Place the belt loops on the front side of the trousers, right sides down, and stitch along the top seam allowance.
Adjust the belt loops by placing stitches (tacks) at a distance of 0.6 cm from the seam line for attaching the belt to the trousers.
After attaching the belt, bend the belt loops along the line of the second stitching line, fold the upper sections of the belt loops inward and sew the folds onto the trouser waistband.
14. Treat the upper section of the trousers with a belt.
15. The bottom of the trousers, with or without a cuff, is finally hemmed.
16. Finally iron the product.
Yarn: Olimpia Serena% acrylic, 100 g/200 m.
Stocking knitting needles No. 2.5 and circular knitting needles No. 2.5.
Knitted pants for a child 0-3 months. But using this principle, you can knit pants for any size, even for an adult, and in any pattern you like.
In the title “Pants without a seam”, I was lying a little, but more on that later.
Description of knitting panties:
1. Cast on 10 stitches on four knitting needles (total: 40 stitches). It’s convenient for me to first cast on 20 loops on two knitting needles, and then distribute them into four 10 loops each. And we close it in a ring.
We knit with an elastic band 1x1 (knit 1, purl 1) 3-4 cm.
2. Next, we move to the front stitch (all knit stitches in each row), in the first row adding one loop from broaches on each knitting needle. In the next row we knit the loops on the first knitting needle according to pattern 1, on the remaining three knitting needles. satin stitch Mark the beginning of knitting with a marker.
So we knit, including the elastic, 18 cm, evenly adding loops from broaches on 2, 3, 4 knitting needles until there are 17 stitches on the knitting needles. I recommend adding not immediately in one row on each knitting needle, but alternately: in one row - on one knitting needle, in another - on the second, etc. Another note - it is better to do increases before pattern 1 and after (on the second and fourth knitting needles ), and on the third - in the middle. This way the increases will be less noticeable.
3. We knit the second leg in the same way.
4. Now the most interesting part - we connect both legs with circular knitting needles so that our pattern remains on the side. And we continue to knit both legs together, not forgetting to knit the pattern on the sides. The first 5-6 rows will be a little awkward to knit.
5. Having knitted several rows (6-8 rows), visually divide the fabric into the front and back. To raise the back half, knit it three times in short rows in this way. We knit the back half and, without knitting two loops to pattern 1, turn the fabric to the wrong side. Make one double loop as follows: leave the thread in front of the work, insert the knitting needle into the 1st loop on the right, then remove the loop and knitting needle together and pull the thread back tightly. Like this. You should end up with a double loop like this.
We knit on the wrong side, again without tying 2 loops to pattern 1 and turn to the front side, making another double loop. We make these loops so that there are no holes. Everything turns out very neatly. Next, these double loops will need to be knitted together.
We knit a row or two in a circular pattern and again make shortened rows, without knitting one loop to pattern 1. Again two rows in a circular pattern - and again shortened rows, already knitting to pattern 1. In this way we raised the back half by six rows.
6. Now we simply knit in the round, not forgetting about pattern 1, about 11 cm, and switch to a 1x1 elastic band (knit 1, purl 1). In the second row we begin to knit a double elastic band:
1st row - persons. We remove the loops without knitting, the thread is at work, we knit 1 purl loop with a purl.
2nd row - persons. We knit the loops, remove the purl loops without knitting, thread before work.
We knit with a double elastic band 2-3 cm, we knit the last row again with a 1x1 elastic band and close the loops. We hide the tail with a hook in broaches. We put on an elastic band.
7. Now what I said at the very beginning. There will still be a small seam here. Step by step we sew a small hole with a needle.
8. That's it. Our pants are ready. Wear it for your health.
Hello, dear friends!
Today we have knitting for kids again: rompers with knitting needles “Autumn” (we need to tie them on our grandson).
The description is very detailed, there are plenty of photographs - a master class in one word. So anyone who knows how to knit knit and purl stitches can handle the job.
And as a musical accompaniment and to lift your spirits, I suggest you listen to the song "Rubber hedgehog" performed by Tatiana and Sergei Nikitin.
As for the sectional yarn from which I knitted these rompers, alas, other than the fact that it is Turkish, and also very soft and even, not thick, but very warm (my husband wears a scarf from it), I can’t say anything - the rest of it I had it for three years, but I didn’t keep the label. Most likely it is wool with acrylic.
Well, you choose the right yarn so that it can be knitted with No. 3 knitting needles.
I chose the simplest knitting patterns - the yarn is already multi-colored, why overdo it? This is garter stitch and for finishing.
Master class on knitting rompers
Knitting the left leg
The beginning of knitting “Autumn” rompers is reminiscent of knitting, only here we will yarn over to form small openwork holes.
So, on knitting needles No. 3 we cast on 39 stitches and knit, WITHOUT CONSIDERING the edge stitches, the sole of the left trouser leg of the rompers:
- in the 1st row - 1 facial, yarn over, knit 17, yarn over, 1 front, yarn over, knit 17, yarn over, 1 front;
- in the 2nd row and in all even ones - knit as shown in the pattern;
- in the 3rd row - 2 facial, yarn over, knit 17, yarn over, 3 facial, yarn over, knit 17, yarn over, 2 facial;
- in the 5th row - 3 facial, yarn over, knit 17, yarn over, 5 facial, yarn over, knit 17, yarn over, 3 facial;
- in the 7th row - 4 facial, yarn over, knit 17, yarn over, 7 facial, yarn over, knit 17, yarn over, 4 facial;
- in the 9th row - 5 facial, yarn over, knit 17, yarn over, 9 facial, yarn over, knit 17, yarn over, 5 facial;
- in the 11th and 13th rows - all facial ( 57 loops without edge loops).
We have come to the rounding of the toe part, which we will knit in short rows in the same way as in booties, only we will perform garter stitch with knit stitches:
- in the 15th row (also the 1st shortened one) - 33 knit, 2 together purlwise (photo above), TURN IT OUT to the wrong side;
- in the 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10thpurl shortened rows - 1 we remove it like an edging, 9 facial, 2 together the front side, TURN TO the front side;
- in the 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th front short rows - 1 we remove it like an edging, 9 facial, 2 together with the wrong side, TURN IT UP to the wrong side;
- in the 11th shortened row (aka 15th regular) - remove 1, knit 9, 2 purl together, 17 facial;
- in the 16th row - purl 17, knit 10, knit 2 together, purl 17;
- in 17, 19 rows - all stitches are front stitches ( 45 loops excluding edge loops);
- in the 21st row - knit 34 knit stitches (distributing them over 2 knitting needles), attach a pin (photo below) and then knit 11 loops on a new knitting needle with a 1 x 1 elastic band,
- we close the knitting in a circle, knitting together the last edge loop with the first edge purl loop and continue knitting with an elastic band 1 x 1 - in this way 21st row seems to be lengthening.
Having reached the pin, turn the knitting to the wrong side and knit 8 rows with a 1 x 1 elastic band. 
Next, we continue knitting in stockinette stitch, adding 2 loops in every 10th row (one at the beginning of the row, the second at the end) 3 times, then in every 4th row - also 3 times.
At a height of 20 cm from the beginning of the elastic, we stop knitting.
Knitting the right leg
We knit the right leg of the “Autumn” romper up to the 21st row in exactly the same way as described above.
- in the 21st row - knit Knit 11, attach a pin, knit 34 loops with 1 x 1 elastic on new knitting needles,
- We close the knitting in a circle, knitting together the last edge loop with the first edge purl loop and continue knitting with a 1 x 1 elastic band until the pin. We unfold the knitting.
Connecting the left and right legs of the sliders
Having knitted all the loops of the left trouser leg on the front side, we continue to knit the loops of the right trouser leg with the same thread, connecting them into one product.
We sew the sole and heel of the sliders so that a rough seam does not form. Then we sew each leg separately and sew the middle seam on the back of the rompers.
We bend the elastic band of the waistband on the wrong side and sew it on, leaving a small hole in order to insert a suitable piece of elastic band there.
The rompers are knitted and ready to wear (sorry for the poor quality photo).
I originally knitted these rompers for my eight month old granddaughter. But when they brought him to stay with us, the “Autumn” romper turned out to be a little too big for him - mommy didn’t take it off exactly measurements. This is what it is, knitting for kids...
So, my dears, measure your children carefully and don’t forget so that you don’t have to bandage your labors several times!
In general, if you change the threads to “thinner” ones and the number of knitting needles, accordingly, to a smaller number, then the rompers will be just right for a baby up to a year old.
I wish you success! And write if there are any difficulties or incomprehensibility!
I couldn’t find a video on the YouTube channel that would tell and show in detail how to knit rompers.
But I found a wonderful video from sisters Galina and Polina from Syktyvkar with a master class on knitting pants for kids!
P.S. By the way, I knitted them according to the master class described above (not the video) - they are smaller in size, and the style is completely different. You can watch it by following the link.
Model 121 from the magazine BURDA 04\2012
YOU WILL NEED:
Gabardine width 145 cm: sizes 34, 36, 38 - 1.30 m; sizes 40, 42, 44 - 1.50 m. Interlining G 785: 0.25 m wide 90 cm. 1 hidden zipper 22 cm long and a hidden foot for stitching it, threads for sewing.
In addition: silk paper for transferring patterns from the pattern sheet, pencil, paper scissors, measuring tape, tailor's pins, tailor's chalk, Burda carbon paper, cutter for transferring patterns, cutting scissors and small craft scissors, sewing machine needle and needle for sewing.
The length of the trousers along the side seam is 104 cm, the width of the half of the trousers along the bottom edge is approx. 45 cm.
Extra pattern in pink on pattern sheets A and B.
Sheet A: parts 1,3 and 4
Sheet B: part 2
TROUSERS PATTERN
It's pink, so it's easy to find on pattern sheets. Place the silk paper on the pattern sheet and pin. Trace the pattern pieces in your size along the corresponding contour lines and don’t forget about the markings and inscriptions.
Cut out the pattern pieces. 
Extra tip: trouser size is determined by hip circumference:
Size 34 = 86 cm
Size 36 = 90 cm
Size 38 = 94 cm
Size 40 = 98 cm
Size 42 = 102 cm
Size 44 = 106 cm 
LAYOUT PLANS
...shows how to arrange paper pattern pieces onto double-folded fabric.
The right side of the fabric lies inside. Pin the paper pattern pieces
1 Front half of trousers 2x
2 Back half of trousers 2x
3 Front facing of the upper edge of the trousers with a fold 1x
4 Back facing of the upper section of the trousers with a fold 1x
Also cut out facings from non-woven fabric (see details on the layout plan, highlighted in gray).
I'll cover the gasket. Place on the wrong side of the cut pieces. 
OPEN
Step 1
Fold the fabric in half with the right side facing inward. For sizes 34-38, place the pattern pieces on the fabric as shown in the picture. For sizes 40−44 - according to the layout plan.
Pin part 4 with the side with the inscriptions facing down. Around the pattern pieces, mark with tailor's chalk allowances for the hem - 4 cm, along the remaining cuts - 1.5 cm. Open out the pieces. 
SEAM LINES AND MARKINGS
Step 2
Transfer the contours of the pattern pieces (seam and hem lines), as well as the dart lines, to the wrong side of the cut pieces using a toothed wheel (cutter) and burda copy paper (see detailed instructions on the paper packaging). At the cross marks at knee height and at the cut mark for the zipper, make notches 5 mm long on the seam allowances. 
PULL OUT STEP CUTS
Step 3
Fold the back halves of the trousers right sides together and pull the inseams above the cross mark at knee height using a steam iron to the length of the inseams of the front halves of the trousers.
DARTS
Step 4
Fold each half of the trousers accordingly along the line of the middle of the dart, and pin the dart line. Sew the dart by starting at the top edge. At the beginning of the seam, sew a bartack. Do not tack at the top of the dart. Tie the stitch threads. Iron the depth of the dart to the line of the middle front/back.
ZIPPER, LEFT SIDE SEAM
Step 5
Place the open concealed zipper, top side down, on the left back half of the trousers along the edge of the zipper opening, 5mm from the opening. The upper teeth of the hidden zipper lie at the marked line of the upper cut of the trousers. Sew the hidden zipper to the cut mark (notch) with a special foot on a sewing machine for sewing hidden zippers. The sewing machine needle is located to the left of the teeth.
Step 6
Close the zipper and pin the second strip of the hidden zipper to the left side seam of the front half of the pants along the edge of the zipper opening.
Open the zipper again and stitch the second zipper tape to the cut mark. The sewing machine needle is located to the right of the teeth.
Step 7
Place the left front half of the trousers over the left back half of the trousers, face to face. Pin the side sections from the bottom to the lower end of the zipper, aligning the marked lines of the left side seam and the cross marks at knee height, while pulling the free lower end of the zipper out. Stitch the cuts. Press seam allowances and overcast.
RIGHT SIDE SEAM
Step 8
Place the right front half of the trousers over the right back half of the trousers face to face.
Pin the side seams, aligning the marked lines of the right side seam and the cross marks at knee height. Grind the sections
Tape at the beginning and end of the seam. Press seam allowances and overcast.
STITCH SEAMS
Step 9
Fold one half of the trousers lengthwise with the right side facing inward. Pin the step sections, starting from the cross marks at knee height. Stitch. Press seam allowances and overcast. Sew the crotch stitch on the other half of the trousers in the same way.
MIDDLE SEAM
Step 10
Turn one half of the trousers inside out and place them face to face in the other half of the trousers. Pin the middle sections together, aligning the marked seam lines and the crotch seams. Stitch. Overcast and iron the seam allowances, respectively, from the top to the beginning of the step rounding. Straighten your pants.
UPPER CUT OF THE TROUSERS WITH A SEWING
Step 11
On the facing of the top edge of the trousers, pin the right side seams (symmetrically to the right side seam on the trousers). Stitch. Press seam allowances. Stitch the inner edge of the facing.
Step 12
Pin the facing to the top edge of the trousers, face to face. Unscrew the ends of the facing, not reaching 5 mm from the edges of the zipper. Turn the allowances along the edges of the cut for the zipper together with the zipper to the right side, pin to the top edge of the trousers over the facing. Place a stitch along the top edge of the trousers.
Step 13
Cut the seam allowances to a width of approx. 7 mm. Turn the allowances along the edges of the cut to the wrong side. Turn the facing of the top edge of the trousers upwards and stitch it onto the seam allowances close to the seam for the maximum possible length.
Step 14
Turn the facing to the wrong side and iron the top edge of the trousers.
Sew the ends of the facing to the bands of the hidden zipper. Sew the bottom edge of the facing by hand to the allowances of the middle seam and the right side seam, as well as to the depths of the darts so that the stitches are not visible from the front side.
HEMISHING THE BOTTOM
Step 15
Iron the hem allowance to the wrong side and sew by hand using loose stitches.
Photo: U2\Uli Glasemann, illustrations: Elke Traier-Schäfer, text: Heidemarie Tengler.
Instructions
3rd row: three lifting chain stitches, purl relief double crochet, double crochet - alternate until the end of the row.
4th row: again three air lifting loops, front embossed double crochet, double crochet - alternate until the end of the row.
Next, knit according to this pattern with the main pattern:
1st row: three chain crochets, double crochet in the next loop, skip one loop, three double crochets in the next loop, two chain crochets and again three double crochets - repeat until the end of the row
2nd row: three chain stitches, a raised purl stitch in the first double crochet of the previous row, then knit three double crochets into the arch of two stitches between the stitches of the previous row, then again two chain loops and three double crochets in the same arch .
Continue knitting alternating these two rows.
Knit 15 centimeters in this way, then combine the loops of both by casting a chain of 3 air loops between them. And continue knitting with the main pattern. After 13 centimeters, knit with an elastic band according to the first pattern. Cut the thread, the height of the panties will reach 30 centimeters.
note
Knitting density 10cm = 18 loops
Helpful advice
It is better to sew the front and back parts with hook No. 2, using connecting posts.
Sources:
- Magazine "Knitting for children. Hook" No. 11/2009
- Crochet baby pants
You can often find knitted pants in the wardrobe of young children. For winter and autumn, you can make them from wool - they will be cozy and warm. For late spring and cool summer - from cotton yarn. Your child will not feel hot in these pants. They are quite easy to knit, and in addition you can knit a jacket and a hat.
You will need
- Yarn, knitting needles No. 3 and No. 3.5.
Instructions
Knitted items have a special magic. After all, each of them contains a piece of the soul of the one who created these clothes. And besides, each thing will be unique. And of particular importance are those things that a mother knits for her child - blouses, socks, skirts and, of course,. Moreover, knitting for a baby is quite simple and quick. After all, things are small in size, and you can create a new wardrobe item in just one evening. And your child will have pants that no one else has.
You will need
- - knitting pattern;
- - Knitting;
- - knitting needles;
- - decorative elements;
- - underwear elastic.
Instructions
Before you start knitting, decide on the model of the future. Select a diagram and try it on yours. If everything suits you, start knitting. Select the required wool and knitting needles according to size. They need to be selected based on the intended purpose of the knitted pants. If you want to make them for global insulation, then you need to take thick threads and the same knitting needles. If you need enough so that, for example, you can walk in the garden, you need threads of medium thickness and not thick knitting needles. Have you decided? Now get started.
As a rule, the pants begin to be knitted separately. Start with the right one. Cast on the required number of stitches on the knitting needles. The initial number of loops is calculated based on the ratio: 2-3 loops per 1 cm, depending on the thickness of the thread. Start knitting the leg with an elastic band 1x1 - literally 5-6 rows. When knitting the last row of elastic, add about 10 stitches evenly.
Next you need to knit in stockinette stitch. You can combine during the knitting process, for example, add garter stitch, or add threads of a different color to make the product multi-colored. This is how you tie your pants to the crotch level. Now things will change a little. Knit by adding 1 loop on both sides in every second row. Then, on the contrary, decrease 1 loop 2 times in every second row. Continue knitting in stockinette stitch until waist level. Finish the leg with a single elastic band again. Now you knit 8 rows for it.
Knit the second, left leg in the same way. Assemble the product at the seams. Carefully sew the gachas together. Wrap and sew the waist part, leaving a small hole. You need to thread an elastic band into it, which will hold the pants on the belt. If desired, the product can be additionally decorated with fringe, applique, beads, buttons and other decorative elements. That's it, the pants are ready. Don't forget to moisten them, straighten them and dry them.
Sources:
- how to knit pants for a baby
Leggings are the same leggings that fit well around the lower body. They are usually knitted by machine or by hand from wool or wool blend yarn. Basically, for a tighter fit, both in light industry and in home knitting, an “elastic” pattern is used. Excellent warm pants will keep your baby warm during the cold season. A beautifully knitted product can serve as a wonderful gift for children.
You will need
- circular knitting needles, yarn, elastic band, thread, needle.
Instructions
First, select your yarn. It is better to prefer wool or wool blend. If you plan to wear leggings with a warm jumper or sweater, then yarn will do. However, if you plan to wear it under or a skirt, then in this case it is better to give preference to threads with a smooth structure. For the product, you can use plain or colored yarn. Then the leggings will be striped, the width and color of which can be adjusted at will.
Pre-knit a sample that consists of 20 loops and 20 rows, wash and then dry flat. After this, based on his measurements, you can make calculations for panties. Traditionally, leggings are knitted with 1x1 or 2x2 rib. But you can experiment a little and knit with a slightly modified knitting stitch, which combines both elastic and stockinette stitch. Therefore, you need to stick to basic number 1 - 3 knit loops, 1 purl loop.
For knitting for (about 5 years), cast on circular needles (should be divided by 4) and knit 8 rows in the round with knit stitches, taking into account that you start from the top, and therefore knit the elastic in the waist area first. To make the elastic look beautiful, make “teeth”. To do this, continue knitting according to pattern No. 2 (2 knit loops, 1 yarn over), and the next row is knitted according to pattern No. 3 (1 knit loop, the second loop is knitted together with a knit yarn over). After this, continue knitting for 8 rows again.
Go to pattern No. 1 and knit until, according to the child’s measurements, you have to start the pant legs. To do this, divide the number of loops into two parts - you get 48 pieces each. Lower one part onto additional knitting needles, and continue knitting the other part (trouser leg) with the same pattern until the required length. To finish, you can use “teeth” (No. 2 and No. 3) or finish with a regular 1x1 elastic band.
Do the same operations with knitting the second leg. After finishing the knitting, return to the waistband, make a hem that folds well in the area of the “teeth” and secure with light stitches or using a machine, leaving an unstitched area for threading the elastic band.
Who said that warm ones can only be worn under trousers? Knit your child some fancy pants that will attract the attention of others. And their owner will no longer refuse warm pants. Little fashionistas will definitely appreciate this model.
You will need
- - White wool yarn - 200 g; - some red wool yarn; - remains of pink wool yarn; - knitting needles.
Instructions
Start knitting from the right leg. Cast on the knitting needles with red thread 50 loops, knit an elastic band 1*1. Add loops when the height of the elastic reaches 6 cm. In the last row, evenly distribute 10 stitches, pull them out of the broaches. Continue knitting in stockinette stitch, change thread, take white yarn. Knit stitches in odd rows and purl stitches in even rows.
Change the thread color to red at a fabric height of 12 cm, take another yarn. Work the next two rows in garter stitch. Continue knitting with white yarn, knit another 5 cm in stockinette stitch. Then change the thread again to red yarn, knit 4 rows in garter stitch. Take a white thread, knit another 4 cm, change to pink yarn, perform 4 rows in garter stitch. Return to the white thread, knit 4 cm in stockinette stitch, then 4 rows with red thread - garter stitch, then take a white thread, knit 4 cm.
