What is the loop on the shirt for? Why do they make a loop at the back of a shirt? Additional eyelets on sneakers

Why do you need a loop on the back of a shirt? August 3rd, 2017

How did we figure out seemingly obvious things, for example? Or for example, do you know or

But let's return to our loop. Remember this one?

I can tell three completely plausible versions on this issue.

Let's start with the cut - this loop is often crowned with a bow pleat (in English, by the way, it is called a box pleat - both the bow and the lid of the box can be seen in it, if desired), which descends from the yoke on the back to the bottom of the shirt. Folds are one of the types of darts and are necessary for freedom of movement and at the same time for the fabric to fit along the natural lines of the body. So we can consider that this is a successful decorative detail with a useful cut element.

There is also a romantic version from the times of detachable collars, and perhaps even before them. Now it’s hard to imagine, but once upon a time men’s shirts looked and were worn completely differently - when removable collars were starched so that they literally stood up and were worn tightly buttoned, then ties were more like scarves that had to be fixed somehow, so perhaps this They started making a loop just for this purpose. But the manner of depicting people from the back came into fashion much later, so there is no sufficient evidence. But for the foreseeable future, a button is regularly found on the back of the shirt collar, just so that the tie in its modern form does not move anywhere.

And the last option is from recent history. In the early 1960s, GANT began making shirts with this buttonhole, which became instantly popular among students from Ivy League universities.

The direct purpose of the loop is to hang the shirt in the locker in the sports locker room so that it does not wrinkle. Although for some reason I have never hung a shirt this way

Later, these loops became part of student culture. Students used them to indicate whether they were in a relationship with someone. Men cut off the loop to show that their hearts were in a serious relationship, and the girls, in turn, wore the scarf of their chosen one.

sources

Once again about the automatic loop

I had the same situation when I needed to make loops on a nightgown

Maybe some beginners will find this post useful. How to make an automatic loop. Everyone’s sewing machines are different and the instructions for them are probably also different, so there is no point in giving your instructions verbatim. My sewing machine has the ability to sew a buttonhole automatically, so I’ll describe my specific example so that it’s the principle is clear.

Marking loops done on the front side of the product: with interfacing stitches, machine stitching or a disappearing marker.
Threads appropriate fabrics must be selected, i.e. the fabric is thin - the threads are thin, the fabric is thick and the threads should also not be thin. You can draw on a training piece of fabric with a simple pencil or pen.
We draw a vertical line and divide it with short horizontal lines, at the place where they intersect, put a dot with a red felt-tip pen - this is where we will make the first puncture with a needle.
Further, for your own convenience “Improving” the paw. The foot needs to be turned over with the bottom side facing you, here we find two parallel black rubberized strips that run along the metal base of the foot, but the most important thing is that at the ends of these parallel there are tiny protrusions, which I marked with red nail polish.

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Now, when the foot takes its working position, these protrusions will be visible in the window of the foot and will serve as the main "beacons" in the process of punching loops.
So, all the necessary preparations have been completed, the fabric is prepared, the instructions have been studied, the presser foot is installed correctly (you can watch Galina Balanovskaya’s video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD4D2-tbYY0) Let's move on to the process itself.
1. Place the fabric under the presser foot, straighten the fabric and pull both threads to the left so that they don’t get caught.
2. Focusing on the left (right) “beacon”, we make the first puncture of the needle into the red point (the starting point of the loop) at the intersection of two straight pencil markings.

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I will dwell in more detail on the “beacons”, which are my main assistants in orienting the loops relative to the vertical straight markings. If, first needle puncture make focusing on the left beacon, then the loop(s) will be to the left of the line, and if the first puncture of the needle falls on the right “beacon”, then the loop(s) will be to the right of the vertical line. Thus, having brought this skill to automatism, you will easily master automatic loops, because the process of punching loops will always be under control.
Next, let the machine make a loop. The instructions recommend sewing slowly, stopping the machine at the starting point when the buttonhole is completed. If you want to make a thicker loop, do not move the fabric and foot, and repeat the second operation of punching the loop immediately on the first loop.

Now you can move on to the next loop. We repeat the operation of punching loops the number of times you need.

The result is that when you have trained your will on a sample, are satisfied with the results of the training, and have filled your hand and eye, you can make loops on a real product, making neat and correct markings (without red dots with a felt-tip pen, they will get stuck in your subconscious by themselves).
3.After punching the loops, you need to leave the ends of both threads 10 cm long; if you have the opportunity to hide them between layers of fabric, then you need to pull the top thread to the wrong side by pulling the bobbin thread, sometimes such knots have to be knitted in a visible place and after trimming Quite noticeable “antennae” remain.

Welted loops (from time to time come in handy when I sew clothes for dolls) are a big headache, because they are needed small (on doll clothes) and very strong (because children are not always neat). I usually did it by machine, but here I found another wonderful material from - on how to make slotted loops by hand.

Hand-cut loops are a delicate matter, almost jewelry work... Yes, no, nothing particularly complicated, but everything must be very thoughtful, consistently and accurately executed, a missed nuance will definitely affect the result. I’ll be honest: no one taught me this. I slowly learned it myself :). You too will learn. Be brave, they are very beautiful!

There are dress loops here, so as not to clutter up the essence, maybe. for coats you also need a thick thread.

That's how much it takes to fasten one button - in the photo on the right.

We act consistently. All work is done on the face. Fabric - cotton cambric.

The distance between the loops is from the pattern or by calculation.

The width of the loop is best marked using a paper strip.

Then it will turn out the same for all loops. A strip with a width of button diameter + 2 mm per button thickness.

I do it with a pencil, and in reality with a disappearing felt-tip pen.

2. Pulling out the thread.

The loop must be cut exactly along the thread. IMHO, it is very unpleasant for my eyes when a loop moves even one thread along the inner or outer edge from the weft or warp. This often happens on machine loops.

If you have an absolutely precise eye and tool, then you can cut between two threads. This is also possible if the fabric threads are thick or sparse. If not, then I cut and pull out 1 thread along the width of the loop. This is the site of the future cut.

3. Bonding layers.

At a minimum, there are 2 layers of fabric in the loop, and there may also be a spacer. If it is not there, then it is better to add it locally in the form of a rectangular piece about 3 by 1 cm.

The layers of fabric for the loop need to be fastened together for work. The point is that they should not move during operation.

The classic method of fastening is small oblique stitches along the perimeter of the loop, 5 mm away from the future cut. Draw a rectangle like this around with stitches. I'm not showing this.

A method of fastening using thin double-sided adhesive is also suitable. So I glued a narrow strip of double-sided adhesive to the location of the future loop. The top and bottom are fastened.

4. Piercing the peephole.

I don't have a punch or special scissors.

For a small eye of dress loops, an awl or knitting needle is quite suitable.

First, I mark the location of the eye with a needle somewhere 1-1.5 mm from the edge of the loop.

Then I widen the hole by rotating the awl in it. Eye diameter - mm 2.

In this case, the threads only become denser around the eye hole.

5. Stitch around the loop.

It is necessary that the edge of the loop does not stretch (for horizontal loops it is weft). I take a thin silk thread. It may not be very thin, depending on your taste and the fabric. Maybe not very silky. But it’s long. It’s better to make the entire loop from start to finish with one thread; there’s no need for extra fastenings.

1 thread of my fabric has been pulled out.

I'm retreating one more thread.

And between the retreated and the next thread I draw a forward needle around the perimeter with small stitches. You can put several on the needle. You need to start from the far side of the loop where the tack will be.

Then I circle it a second time. Total - a continuous stroke. I tighten the thread quite tightly, not loosely. You don't have to worry about the evenness of the stitching by varnishing it with a stitch.

If you wish, you can make the outline around the future eye rounded, but, in general, this is not important.

The loop, of course, needs to be cut.

We put the scissors into the peephole and carefully cut along the pulled out thread.

7. Stitching the straight side.

You should also start it from the far side of the loop, where the outline ends. It goes from left to right, so we sew the bottom side first (for women's clothing). It is more convenient to stitch from top to bottom, holding the loop vertically.

For overcasting you need SEAM No. 6 - DOUBLE LOOP. I talked about him in the thread about air loops. The beauty of the result is in the countability. We make each subsequent puncture through the same number of threads. I did it through 2 threads - for this fabric it is approximately 0.7 mm. The fabric density is 25 threads per 1 cm in the warp and 14 threads per 1 cm in the weft.

The stitch laid earlier should not be located along the edge of the cut, but close to the punctures of the stitching - it’s more beautiful. (Therefore, if a wider stitch is planned, then the stitch can be laid 1 thread of fabric further from the cut).

I like the stitching that is not wide and not continuous. This makes the transition from fabric to loop look more natural.

Here I make punctures, leaving 2 threads of weft and 1 thread of laid stitching under the stitching.

Very important.

When tightening the loop, I pull the thread slightly back.

It is then that the edge of the loop turns out taut and clear. If you pull straight up or slightly forward, the edge relaxes. The pull is quite strong.

8. Stitching the eyelet.

We sew the eyelet in a circle, maintaining approximately the same distance between the punctures.

Along the eye itself, the thread will thicken and form a dense scar.

9. Closing the loop.

The second side of the loop is sewn like the first, and now I have come to the beginning.

This is where the fastening is done.

But first I close the loop, those. I move with a loop stitch to the first side.

Three ways. I'll say right away that I like the third one. That's why the first one doesn't have pictures.

1) Lay several loop stitches, grabbing the fabric, perpendicular to two sides.

2) Sew a cross stitch forward on the needle several times in place (this can be seen in the first picture, you can leave it like that).

3) Overcast the tiny arc obtained in step 2) with a double loop. Make a tiny transverse air loop like this.

All done with sewing! If it’s new, then not even a year has passed :). If the first stitch took you less than an hour, then you are an exceptionally capable student :). But even with a lot of experience, this is not a quick task. 15 minutes is very good, 10 minutes is great.

Cover the cut with oblique stitches and iron it. It’s you, dear girls:).... If you know how to do it neatly, you can do it without basting - it’s more relevant on thick fabrics... Here she is, this beauty!

No, really, it’s beautiful, tell me? Even very much, my dears!... It’s even better in nature, I’m telling the truth.

Have you noticed that many shirts have a loop like this at the back? Have you ever wondered what it is for? In fact, there are several versions, and now we will tell you about them.

Let's start with the cut. This loop usually tops what is called a bow pleat, which runs from the back yoke to the bottom of the shirt. The folds formed are one of the types of darts and are necessary for freedom of movement and at the same time for the fabric to fit along the natural lines of the body. So we can consider that this is a successful decorative detail with a useful cut element.

There is another, more romantic version of the origin of this loop. It’s hard to imagine now, but once upon a time, men’s shirts looked and were worn completely differently. In those days, shirts had removable collars that were starched so that they literally stood up and were worn tightly buttoned. Ties back then were more like scarves that had to be secured in some way, so this loop was probably made just for this purpose. But the manner of depicting people from the back came into fashion much later, so there is no sufficient evidence. But on modern shirts there is a button at the back, just so that the tie in its modern form does not move anywhere.

And the last option is from recent history. In the early 1960s, GANT began making shirts with this buttonhole, which became instantly popular among students from Ivy League universities. The direct purpose of the loop is to hang a shirt in a locker in a sports locker room so that it does not wrinkle.

This version also has an indirect meaning - it is a designation of the status of personal relationships.
If a young man who studied at Harvard, for example, was dating a girl, he would remove this loop as a sign that he was busy. And his chosen one, in turn, began to wear his college scarf. This is exclusively student symbolism, but nevertheless, a rather interesting fact.

Button loops on women's clothing they are performed on the right shelf or on the left side of the back. Loops on men's clothing are on the left shelf or on the right side of the back. If the fastener is located on the side, then the loops are always made on the front part.

Modern sewing machines are equipped with special automation for fast and easy buttonhole sewing. In addition to buttonholes that are sewn by machine, there are also buttonholes that are sewn by hand: linen buttonholes, eyelet buttonholes, tailor’s buttonholes, and especially beautiful overcast buttonholes.

It doesn’t matter which loop you choose for your product, but be sure to When processing loops, consider the following:

■ On fastener strips or their imitations, the loops must be vertical and located in the middle of the straps. All other types of fasteners have horizontal loops. To ensure that the button is positioned exactly in the middle of the fastener on the finished product, start the buttonhole approx. 2 mm to the center line.

■ The pattern has markings for the location of the loops. The length of the loop must be marked in accordance with the diameter of the button. In this case, the finished length of the loop is equal to the diameter of the button plus its height.

■ Before making a buttonhole on your finished garment, try sewing it on a piece of the exact same fabric.

Linen loop

To make linen loops, the fabric must be folded in half and reinforced gasket or folded in three layers. The length of the loop is marked on the front side of the fabric. They sew with ordinary threads, and for thin fabrics they use threads for machine embroidery and darning. To achieve a strong overcast stitch with uniform stitch heights, machine stitching needs to be done around the buttonhole markings.

Cut the loop in the middle, making sure not to cut the stitches at the ends of the loop (1). Protect the edges of the cut from fraying with oblique overlock stitches (2). Then sew the loop with a buttonhole stitch. Run the seam from left to right, this is the most convenient way to work. Insert the needle behind the edge of the loop from the wrong side (3). Pull the thread, leaving a small loop. Insert the needle into the loop from back to front (4). Tighten the thread. The resulting nodule should lie exactly on the edge of the incision.

When one side of the loop is sewn, tack at the end. To do this, sew the fabric several times with double-height stitches (5) and wrap these stitches tightly around them, slightly catching the fabric (5a). Then sew the other side of the loop in the same way and make another fastening at the other end of the loop. Fasten the end of the thread to the wrong side of the fabric.

Loop with eye

Horizontal loops, for example on blouses, are made with an eyelet.

This loop differs from a linen loop in that the front end of the loop is rounded. To do this, the front end of the loop is overstitched with stitches diverging in the form of a fan. The knots on the curve are slightly pulled up (6). At the other end of the loop, a tack is made.

Tailor's loop

Tailor's buttonholes are used on jackets and coats. To make the loop more flexible, it is overstitched with special threads, placing a thin cord inside the overstitching.

Mark the length of the loop on the right side of the fabric. Cut the loop and finish the front end of the cut (where the button will be) with an expanding wedge or circle punched using a hole punch.

Protect the edges of the cut from fraying with oblique overlock stitches, rounding them off at the front end. Stretch a string (7) along one edge of the cut. Then, at the end of the loop, start overcasting with a loop stitch, insert the needle behind the edge of the loop from the wrong side. Place the thread behind the point of the needle, then pull the needle (8) through the thread. Pull the thread tightly. The knot should lie on the edge. At the rounding of the loop, also stretch the lace and pull the knots up a little. After processing the rounding, stretch the lace along the other edge of the loop and sew it in the same way.

At the end of the loop, fasten (as on a linen loop). At the end, pull the lace tightly again, straightening the “eye” with an awl, and sew the lace on the wrong side.

Machine sewn buttonholes

Modern sewing machines are equipped with automation, with which they can make not only linen buttonholes, but buttonholes with an eye. You will find more detailed information in the instructions for your sewing machine. However, even on a regular sewing machine, without special automation for sewing buttonholes, you can sew buttonholes with a zigzag stitch.

THIS IS DONE AS follows

Mark a loop on the right side of the fabric. Use a machine to sew a tight zigzag stitch with a stitch width of 2mm. Place the needle in the left position and stitch the left half of the loop. At the end of the stitch, return the needle to the middle position, increase the stitch width by 2 times and make 3-4 stitches for fastening. Reset the stitch width to 2mm. Using a hand wheel, insert the needle into the center of the bartack. Raise the foot and turn the fabric with the needle around the needle. Lower the paw. Raise the needle, move it to the right position and sew the second half of the loop. Attach the end of the loop. Cut the loop in the middle.

How to sew a button

Basically, buttons are divided into two types: buttons with a foot or metal loop and buttons with two or four holes for sewing.
Sewing on buttons with holes, they always make a “leg” from threads. Only decorative buttons are sewn without a “leg”, because buttons, as a rule, are intended for fastening clothes.
Places for sewing buttons are marked in accordance with the location of the loops on the product.

Marking the location of buttons

Pin the sides of the fastener, aligning the lines of the middle so that the side with the loops is on top. At the front/top end of the loop, insert a pin vertically into the bead below. Carefully remove the loop from the pin upwards and secure the pin to the side. The place where the pin is inserted is the place for sewing on the button (1).

Sewing on a button

It is sewn on with double regular or special thread for sewing on buttons. To prevent buttoned buttons from being pressed into the bottom side, they are sewn “on the leg”. The height of the “leg” depends on the thickness of the fastener side. With your left hand, hold the button at the required distance above the markings on the bottom edge (2). It will be easier to sew on a button using a match (3). The match is removed before wrapping the “leg” with thread. Having twisted the “leg” (4), the thread is pulled to the wrong side and secured. Buttons that must be sewn especially firmly are sewn with a subbutton on the wrong side of the product (5).
Buttons with a stem or a metal loop, as well as decorative buttons, are always sewn on without a “foot” made of thread.