Creation of aromatic compositions. Secrets of composing aromatic compositions. Perfume is an aphrodisiac to attract men

When you buy perfume, you hardly think about the fact that the art of composing perfume compositions is a complex science that takes many years to master. Of course, it is impossible to become a professional in perfumery in a few minutes, but it is quite possible to understand how aromas are created, what notes they consist of, and how the group to which they belong is determined.

How the base of perfume is created

In the descriptions It is customary to use the musical term “three-note chord.” Indeed, any perfume bouquet, like a chord, includes three main notes: base, middle and top. At the beginning of work on a fragrance, its base is compiled. Traditional perfumes are usually made with 95% high quality alcohol and essential oils, which are chosen depending on which notes should prevail in the perfume. For example, for woody perfumes, oils of sandalwood, oud, , vetiver, cedar, myrrh - they give the aroma a pronounced and persistent woody aroma and do not allow the smell to quickly evaporate. For perfumes of other groups, fragrant and very persistent oils are often used as base oils. , chafras, vanilla, tonka, beans.

It should be noted that Arabic oil perfumes, unlike traditional ones, are made without an alcohol base, only from mixtures of natural essential oils of plant or animal origin. For example, famous animalistic scents are made from ambergris (a waxy substance produced in the digestive tract of the sperm whale) or musk (an odorous substance obtained from the dried endocrine glands of musk deer or beaver). Alcohol and water are never added to the base of oriental perfume.

Middle and top notes

In the choice of middle and top notes, everything depends on the imagination and intuition of the perfumer, who, like a true artist, creates his own signature scent by mixing oils in certain proportions. However, this creative work also has its own rules and laws.

For top notes, use light oils that evaporate in just 20-30 minutes. Their main task is to “introduce” the aroma, to give the very first idea about it. As a rule, depending on the group, volatile essential oils of citrus, bergamot, greenery, spices, fresh fruits and flowers are used for top notes.

For the heart of the composition, essential oils are most often used, the smell of which can not disintegrate for about two to three hours. These are strong and vibrant herbal substances such as tuberose, ylang-ylang, cyclamen, cloves, mimosa and so on. Of course, essential oils are selected based on which group or subgroup the aromatic composition being created belongs to.

How the aroma reveals itself

The famous perfumer of the house of Coco Chanel, Jacques Paul, once said that good perfume, like a true woman, should not immediately reveal all its secrets and mysteries. In a high-quality perfume, first only the top notes are felt, then the heart of the aroma appears, and only then the base, which is its true soul. Therefore, when you go to the store for a new perfume, be sure to apply a few drops of a sample to your wrist and calmly go about your business.

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Chapter 4.

BASICS OF COMPOSITION OF PERFUME COMPOSITIONS, PERFUMES, PERFUME LIQUIDS AND FOOD ESSENCES

§ 1. Terms and definitions

According to OST 18-385-81, perfume compositions are multicomponent mixtures of fragrant substances with a specific odor characteristic of a given perfume liquid.

Perfume compositions. This is the main part of any perfume product.

They are a complex combination of artificial mixtures of fragrant substances that reproduce the smell of plants or other unique odors that do not occur in nature. Perfume compositions are the main carrier of smell. They contain the entire future of the finished product (smell, durability, character and its harmony).

Perfume compositions are made in various ways. Sometimes they are composed based on individual aromatic substances, infusions and solutions, but more often so-called base compositions are used to compose them.

High prices on the world market for natural essential oils, the variability of the quality of essential oils and their scarcity have determined the need to create base compositions that imitate the smell of natural oils. The use of base compositions, for example, 'Santhal oil No. 6', 'Vetiver oil', 'Ylang-ylang oil No. 4', 'Pachoulia oil No. 4', 'Bergamot oil No. 7', 'Iris- concrete 153"

etc., allows them to be used more widely in a wide range of perfumes and colognes.

Numerous base compositions with a floral scent are widely introduced into perfume compositions: “Rose” No. 1, 2, 3, “Lily of the Valley” No. 1, 2, 3, 5, “Lilac” No. 7, “Tuberose”, ”Mignonette”, “Honeysuckle”, “Jasmine” No. 1,2, 3, 4, 5, “Jasmine” 31, “Jasmine” 220, etc.; with a fancy scent: “Aldehydine” 7, “Anterita”, “Bouquet” 100, “Kontilia”, “Tobacco”, “Eteria”, “Eros”, “Veniana”, “Contanela”, “Shalita”, etc.

In addition to perfume compositions, compositions, commonly referred to as fragrances, are also being developed for scenting soaps, detergents, cosmetics, deodorants, bath products and other purposes.

Special compositions for flavoring food products, so-called food essences, are also being developed. Below we will consider only the technology for producing perfume compositions, fragrances for soaps, detergents and cosmetic products, as well as essences for soft drinks and confectionery products provided for in the course program.

Infusions of aromatic substances are alcoholic solutions of extractive substances obtained by infusing raw materials of plant or animal origin.

Depending on the type of fragrant raw materials used, infusions are divided into the following groups:

Prepared from plant materials (patchouli leaves, oak moss, coriander seed, orris roots);

Prepared from animal raw materials (ambergris, natural musk, civet, castoreum).

Infusions of products of plant origin have a more complete aroma than essential oils obtained from the same raw materials; in addition, extraction of plant materials with alcohol is used when the extracted raw material has reduced solubility in low concentration alcohol.

Infusions of animal products sharpen the sensitivity of smell, increase the duration of perception of odors, and enhance the harmony between the smell of perfume and human skin. Without them, it is difficult to create full-fledged high-grade perfumes.

Infusions are added to perfume formulations in certain quantities along with the perfume composition and alcohol.

Infusions from which the solvent has been partially distilled off are sometimes called resinoids. They are used in the same way as essential oil. As a rule, infusions are not added to fragrances.

Solutions of fragrant substances are individual essential oils, resins, synthetic fragrant substances, and base compositions dissolved in ethyl alcohol or other solvents. Solutions are used in cases where fragrant substances are introduced into too

small quantities in perfume formulations (for example, aldehydes, tibetolide, etc.) or when fragrant substances are difficult or slowly soluble in alcohol. Solutions of various resins, balms, essential oils (benzoin resin, styrax, Peruvian balsam, oak moss, cistus, etc.), as well as infusions, are one of the necessary components of perfumes and colognes. Solutions are prepared according to approved recipes.

Ogdushki. These are perfume compositions intended for scenting cosmetics, soaps, detergents, etc. Cosmetic preparations are perfumed with small quantities of fragrant substances. For example, for aromatization of soap, 0.5-1% of fragrances are usually used, detergents up to - 1%, for fragrance of cosmetic products (creams, lotions, lipsticks, shampoos, dental care products - up to 1%. In some deodorants, bath products and room fragrances introduce fragrances in increased quantities (from 3 to 10%). The purpose of perfume compositions and fragrances, as well as the direction and nature of their odors, are completely different.

Fragrances are added to cosmetic products during their manufacturing process to give them a specific smell. Each cosmetic product has its own fragrance, made according to a specific recipe.

Some fragrances have the properties of protecting cosmetics from the formation of mold, i.e. they are preservatives.

Perfume liquids. These are pleasant-smelling water-alcohol or alcohol solutions of perfume compositions and infusions. This part of the mixture of fragrant substances is the carrier of the smell of future perfumes, colognes and fragrant waters. All these components determine the aromatic beginning of future products. In addition to them, perfume liquids also contain ethyl alcohol and sometimes water and dyes. Each perfume liquid is prepared according to a strictly defined recipe and technology.

Food essences. These are special pleasant-smelling perfume compositions intended for scenting food industry products (confectionery, liquor, vodka and soft drinks). Their specific feature is that they use mainly substances that determine the fruity and fruit-berry direction of the smell.

Perfumer School. DIY perfume. Basics of aromatic composition. Perfume made from essential oils. Perfume at home. Basics of perfumery. Classic compositions in perfumery.

Part 3. Basics of aromatic mixture composition.

Perfume. In perfumes the concentration ranges from 15 to 30% essential oils. Aromatic substances are dissolved in 96% alcohol. These are the most persistent and long-lasting. Their aroma on cotton fabric lasts up to 30 hours.

Eau de Toilette. Contains up to 5 to 15% essential oils dissolved in 80-90% alcohol. Water makes up from 2-5%. According to its concentration of aromas, eau de toilette and perfume water, sometimes they are not much different.

Basics of perfume composition.

A perfume composition is a complex combination of several natural or synthetic aromas: flowers, fruits, spices, resins... They form one overall harmonious work, in which new shades and nuances of aroma are gradually revealed. Some components play the leading role in the composition, while others place accents and create a complete symphony. A perfume composition is a symbiosis of smell, durability, energy and character. Sometimes compositions are created by mixing classic scents to create new variations, previously unknown...

...It’s interesting that a perfume can include from 3 to 350 components.

French perfumers have identified several classic compositions as standards.

♠ Citrus fruits. They are dominated by citrus essential oils. These are always energetic, fresh, light cooling compositions. They are equally suitable for both women and men. Ingredients: lemon, bergamot, orange, grapefruit, etc.

• Citrus
• Citrus floral chypre
• Spicy citrus fruits
• Citrus woody
• Citrus aromatic

♠Floral. Created using an overwhelming amount of floral scents. These are rose, violet, magnolia, chrysanthemum, tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lilac, narcissus, neroli, lavender. As a rule, this is a women's perfume.

• One flower - mono-oil
• Lavender flower - lavender perfume
• Flower bouquet
• Floral, green
• Floral, aldehydic, created using synthetic fragrances with a lemon aroma
• Floral, woody
• Floral, woody, fruity - using synthetic fruit aromas.

♠Wooden. Warm, very gentle aromas with an oily feel. Created with abundant use of wood essential oils. In first place are sandalwood, myrtle and Atlas cedar. Cypress and juniper take pride of place. Many woody perfumes contain labdanum, languid vetiver, energetic pink pepper, warm ginger and citrusy notes of sunny grapefruit. Woody scents may include rosewood, patchouli, violet leaf absolute. These scents are straightforward, very long lasting and weighty. Lavender and citrus fruits are added to men's compositions. Woody scents are great for men, although in our fast-paced business age, many self-confident women opt for perfumes with woody undertones.

♠Fougere glasses or ferns(from French) Fougere scents actually don’t smell like ferns at all. The fern family has no scent. Rather, it is a “myth” created by perfumers. The famous perfume “Royal Fern”, released at the end of the 19th century, laid the foundation for the direction of Fougere fragrances. The compositions are distinguished by bitterness and the presence of kumar aromas. The bitter undertone is achieved by using wormwood and oakmoss as the main notes to create a vegetal undertone. This composition includes lavender, bergamot, vanilla, coumarin (a fragrant substance with the smell of cut grass). Recently, sandalwood and marjoram, cinnamon, tarragon, coriander, musk, amber, rosemary, Atlas cedar, and even sugary geranium (pelargonium) have been added to the line of fern perfumes. Fougere aromas are considered to belong to the masculine part of the population.

• Fern
• Fern, amber, soft
• Fern, floral, amber
• Fern, spicy
• Fern, aromatic

♠ Chypre. In 1917, François Coty created the famous “Cyprus” fragrance. This is a feminine fragrance, where, against the background of a floral composition, bergamot, patchouli, cistus, labdanum and oak moss appeared, as well as the substance quinoline with a leather aroma (now it is not used due to toxicity ). Perfume “Cyprus” gained wide popularity, and the name became a household name “Chyprus - Cyprus”. Chypre scents are always marked by the first whiff of bergamot and lemon, followed by the aroma of patchouli with jasmine or sandalwood, and of course, the last note in the accord is wormwood and oakmoss. This is a composition with a hint of bitterness and the aroma of an autumn forest. . Chypre perfumes are suitable for introverts, for people whose inner world is deep, unpredictable and full of emotions and experiences.

♠Amber. Oriental scents. These are ideal compositions for use at any time of the day. Amber compositions are distinguished by softness and delicacy. A combination of vanilla, powdery cistus-labdanum with pronounced animalic notes of amber.

• Amber, floral, woody
• Amber, floral, spicy
• Amber, soft
• Amber, citrus
• Semi-amber, floral

♠Leather. As a rule, these are compositions for men. There is a dry smoky aroma of tobacco, leather, woody notes of sandalwood, cedar and amyris, juniper, birch bark and lime and, of course, head floral shades.

• Leather
• Leather, floral
• Leather, tobacco

Common compositions.

Floral-Oriental: Compositions are created using floral and oriental notes. There is also a spicy mixture of cloves and cinnamon, jasmine, violet, musk, and sandalwood. They contain seductive musk. This perfume is intended for evening receptions, social events and... perhaps for business meetings.

Oriental or eastern. Always a very sweet, tart, very sensual, oriental-tinged perfume. They contain vanilla, sandalwood, frankincense, Copai and Peruvian balsam, myrrh, galbanum, guaiac wood, etc. Evening, trailing perfumes that are suitable for the cold time of day. This is a heavy, rich, very erotic, sensual scent. Women's oriental scents are diluted with floral and spicy essential oils. Oriental fragrances for men add marine shades and citrus fruits: lime, lemon, bergamot.

Greens. These compositions include lavender, rosemary, galbanum, hyacinth, juniper, violet leaves (abusole). This is a fresh, cool scent that smells like the moisture of morning dew. Green scents are very suitable for young girls with blond hair. Green notes in perfumery are achieved by using, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, triplal,

Marine or oceanic. It is impossible to reproduce these compositions with the help of essential oils in the same way as they are created with the help of synthetic components. The aromas of this family are entirely synthetic. The name itself speaks about the nature of the aroma - it is the smell of the sea, the cry of seagulls and the sea breeze... a tincture of fucus (algae) can help, but in small quantities.

Fruit. Created from fruit aromas. Unfortunately, in aromatherapy you will never find pear, apple, papaya or peach essential oil... these are not essential oil plants. Here you can use orange, lemon, grapefruit in small quantities, otherwise the aroma will be classified as citrus. ... and, in extreme cases, fragrances (synthetic substitutes identical to natural aroma). In this case, your perfume cannot perform a therapeutic function. You must be prepared for this. Fruit perfumes are always feminine scents. In some cases, you can use alcohol tinctures on fruits and berries or use synthetic aromas - fragrances. Buy fragrances>>>

Spicy. If you want to create an evening perfume, then spicy components will come in handy. The participation of cinnamon, cassia, anise, ginger, cardamom and cloves will help create a slender erotic image of a purposeful temptress for a woman. Spicy compositions are languid, thick, rich, they attract and carry you along.

Aldehydic. These compositions in perfume production are synthesized from chemical compounds - aldehydes. These are always bright, deep and rich aromas. A large number of aldehydes are contained in essential oils with a lemon aroma (citronella, lemongrass, lemongrass, litsea cubeba, lemon balm, etc.).

Perfume with pheromones. Manufacturers of perfumes with pheromones claim that they add natural animalic substances, but as a rule these are synthesized molecules. Perfume mainly consists of aromatic substances and essential oils - aphrodisiacs. You can create your own composition from essential oils with the properties with added molecule and believe me, it will turn out no worse.

NextPart 4.

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Basics of creating perfume compositions.

A perfume composition, or let's call it “perfume”, is always the result of the author’s creativity. But there are a number of fundamental principles.

Perfumes can be alcohol-based (alcohol-based), oil-based (oil-based) or solid (wax-based).

Consider, for example, oil perfumes.

In such perfumes, essential oils can be from 10 to 30%, the rest is an oil base - for example, jojoba oil, which itself is odorless and neutral.

Essential oils in perfumes are divided into three main groups:

The top note or “head of the perfume” - these essential oils are very volatile and “active”; we perceive their aroma first and it kind of prepares us for the main aroma of the perfume. This smell is short-lived and disappears quickly

The heart note is the heart of the perfume, it makes up the main aroma, appears later and lasts for a long time. At the same time, this aroma is like a connecting link between the first and third groups of essential oils. We need to add the esters that are most pleasant to us to the heart note.

The base is essential oils with a persistent aroma that lasts longer than others and combines well with other essential oils, forming a kind of general background.

Some essential oils can flow smoothly from one group to another, but it is important that the perfume composition maintains its integrity.

3. When composing perfume:

When mixing, first the esters of the main note are added to the base, then the “heart”, then the top note. Another option states that the heart note is added to the base first, followed by the base note and then the top note. If after all, any aroma stands out inappropriately or, on the contrary, gets lost, we can balance the composition by adding the esters we need.

In order for the aroma of a perfume to fully manifest itself, it must “ripe”. After composing the perfume, let it sit for four weeks so that the components merge into a single whole. According to another version, 15 days are enough.

How to compose the composition we need?

You need to make several strips of paper, apply essential oils drop by drop on them and label each strip, indicating which essential oil is applied to it. Then, having tasted each one carefully, set aside those that you think will suit you for the composition. Then it’s worth seeing how they sound together in different combinations - first the heart, then the base, then with the top note...

Having found the most harmonious combination in your opinion, make a sample on a napkin. If the sample is successful, you can implement it.

After adding a couple of essential oils, let them “play”, leaving the bottle for 20-30 minutes, then add the following esters.

When adding essential oils to the base, you need to shake the bottle slightly so that the oil “enters”, but not too much, and Master Cunningham did not recommend shaking, but advised just rotating the bottle a little.

Examples of essential oils for top notes:bergamot, verbena, lemongrass, lime, mandarin, orange, peppermint, lemon, bluebell, rosemary.

Examples of heart note essential oils:geranium, iris, jasmine, chamomile, lavender, lemon balm, mimosa, clary sage, myrtle, neroli, rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, hyssop. (I personally perceive neroli and lavender as top note esters)

Examples of base note essential oils:benzoin, elemi, galbanum, honey essential oil, musk, cloves, patchouli, rosewood, sandalwood, styrax, vetiver, juniper, incense, cedar (V.I. Zakharenkov classifies it as a heart note), cinnamon, cypress, amber, violet, vanilla.

Floral: Perfume oils in this category have the scent of a single flower or an entire group of flowers. An example is rose, lavender and jasmine oils. These perfume oils have a strong, sweet scent.

Citrus: Perfume oils in this category have a sharp, tart odor, so they are most often used in the production of soaps, facial scrubs and other cosmetics for skin care. Lemon, grapefruit and tangerine oils fall into this category.

Eastern: These are oils with a spicy and intoxicating aroma of spices and amber, vanilla and musk.

Woody: This group includes oils with the scent of cedar and sandalwood, patchouli and camphor.

Leather: These perfume oils have the scent of wood, tobacco or honey and are therefore used primarily in men's perfumes and aftershave products.

Fougere: This group includes oils with the scent of lavender, coumarin and oak moss.

To write this post, materials were used from the book by V.I. Zakharenkov “Encyclopedia of Fragrances” and from the website

On my own behalf, I will briefly add that it is best to compose perfume compositions on days when the Moon moves through the signs of Air: Gemini, Libra, Aquarius, and Libra is best. It is also good to compose “personal” perfumes when the Moon moves along your ASC - along the rising point of the ecliptic above the horizon at the moment of your birth. Perfume “for love” - Moon according to Venus, for a goal - according to the MC (the highest point of the ecliptic at the moment of your birth), for magical practices - Moon according to the Moon, etc.

It is better not to compose compositions on days of square between the Moon and the Sun, as well as when the Moon is very flawed or very young.

And also about black musk: it’s not true that it doesn’t work, it’s just that the aphrodisiacs on sale with a tiny share are most often imitations of this component, and not a natural product in its full form. Regarding aphrodisiacs: they can be tested on cats; if the cat perks up and reaches out with its nose to the sampler, then it is good; if not, especially if it has a sharply negative attitude towards the smell, then it is not good. IMHO.

Basics of perfume compositions

from "Basics of perfumery and cosmetics production"

Composition is the basis of perfume art. Creating perfumes is both a science and an art.
In table Table 6 shows the components included in some compositions with a floral scent (violet, lily of the valley, rose, carnation, jasmine).
As can be seen from table. 6, in compositions with the smell of violet you can find components of rose, carnations with the smell of lily of the valley - components of jasmine, roses with the smell of jasmine - components of lily of the valley, roses, etc. Therefore, the perfumer can create an unlimited number of different smells by selecting a combination of fragrant substances. The nature of the smell will be determined by the combination and ratio of fragrant substances.
When composing floral compositions, the perfumer is somewhat limited in the choice of fragrant substances. However, it has been established that floral perfumes with the scent of lilac, lily of the valley, violet, etc., created by different perfumers, differ significantly in shades of smell. This is explained by the fact that different perfumers perceive and reproduce the smell of a natural flower differently. The perfumer's abilities are manifested to a much greater extent when creating fantasy compositions, for example, with the smell of chypre, fougere, leather, etc. Perfume compositions with a fantasy smell are the basis of numerous perfumes (Triumph, Visit, Ogonyok, Cinderella, Stone Flower, Only You, Opera, Sardonyx , Nocturne, Russian Shawl, Night Aroma, Chypre, etc.). The scents of chypre and fougère are due to the combination of aromatic substances with a citrus scent, oak moss and components of rose, jasmine and clove.
Let's consider the construction of a perfume composition with a fantasy scent using the example of a composition with the scent of chypre.
There are three stages of smell in perfume compositions, depending on the rate of evaporation of fragrant substances: the initial smell (felt shortly after the evaporation of alcohol from the perfume), the main smell (the smell characteristic of a given name of the perfume) and the final smell (the smell that remains after long-term evaporation of the perfume).
The search for compounds for the initial note is easier, since there is a large assortment of highly volatile aromatic substances with a pleasant odor. You can introduce, for example, orange and bergamot oils, aldehydes with a molecule containing from 9 to 12 carbon atoms. The variations of this recipe can increase almost unlimitedly, while remaining within the framework of the scent of chypre with various shades. Thus, the perfumer can vary perfumes with a given odor character, choosing the combinations he likes. At the same time, he should not try to introduce all existing fragrant substances into the composition. First of all, he selects the products with which he intends to work to create the intended scent.
To obtain the desired scent, the perfumer usually starts from single synthetic aromatic substances and essential oils; he can also combine one base composition with another, taking them in equal quantities or one in greater quantities and the other in less. Then we add individual fragrant substances to these combinations, which determine the initial, main and final odors of the composition. At the same time, many aromatic substances simultaneously determine the initial and main notes of the smell (for example, lavender oil, bergamot, rosemary, etc.).
Thus, first the perfumer creates the main, or so-called leading scent. Then, to the main smell, he selects aromatic substances that complement and harmoniously combine with the main smell and give the perfume a certain fullness, timbre, tone and color.
In both domestic and foreign practice, a new composition, as a rule, is developed not for one type of perfume product, but mainly for a complete series, which includes perfume, cologne, eau de toilette, bath preparation, fragrant talc, etc. Although the composition may also be intended for a narrower series (only for perfumes and colognes or only for perfumes).
The necessary components of perfume compositions for classic colognes are natural citrus oils: orange, tangerine, lemon, bergamot, as well as lavender, rosemary, petitgrain and neroli. Citrus oils contribute to the freshness of the initial scent of colognes. Other products included in perfume compositions for classic colognes only emphasize the note of citrus oils and complement it. Lavender, rosemary, petitgrain and lemon oils add a fresh, floral touch.
In addition to classic colognes, there are also fancy scented colognes, which are classic colognes with the addition of other products.
In foreign practice in recent years, the predominant direction has been compositions of a floral nature with various shades. Floral aromas of a sweetish-spicy nature, close in smell to the so-called oriental style in perfumery, are becoming especially popular.
In parallel with the leading trend represented by floral compositions, another one has developed in foreign perfumery in recent years - musk. The sharp, unpleasant smell of so-called musk oils distinguishes them from traditional perfumery products, as well as more complex compositions based on a combination of the smell of musk with the aromas of jasmine, sandalwood, oakmoss, vanilla and ylang-ylang.
One of the significant indicators of the quality of modern cosmetics, toilet soaps and detergents is their smell. These products should be moderately perfumed and evoke a pleasant feeling when used.
Almost all fragrant substances can be used to perfume cosmetic products, but in the concentration that is optimal for them. Some exceptions are those that do not tolerate a certain environment, cause irritation to the skin or mucous membrane, or are incompatible in combination with one another.