Currant bush made of beads weaving pattern. Beaded brooch "Currant". Master class and diagram. For work you will need

In this master class we will tell you how to make a beautiful brooch from beads.

Materials:

8 beads 10 or 9 mm
8 beads 8 or 7 mm
large beads 8 or 9 - 24 pcs.
beads for decoration - 11 rubles.
brooch clasp, fishing line.

In principle, the beads of the outer and inner rows may well be the same size; variations in the sizes and shapes of the beads are also possible, but then you will need to choose the size and number of beads accordingly so that everything looks harmonious.

Scheme for the product

1. From large beads (in my case black) we make a ring - we collect 16 beads on a thread and close the ring. Let's thread the thread inside the ring again for strength. Let's fasten the thread.

2. Make rays. To do this, we put a large bead on the thread (in my case, red), then a smaller bead (black) and a large bead. we return to the black one, pass through the red one and bring the needle to the next bead of the ring. You can immediately pass the needle through one more bead of the ring (that is, we pass two at once), since our next ray will begin from it. We make 8 rays.

3. We begin finishing with small beads. We need to “encircle” each ray with a petal made of beads. At the same time, we pay attention to the fact that these “petals are connected to each other. First, we collect 10 red beads and enter the black bead at the top of the beam.

We collect 10 more beads and insert the needle into the black bead at the base of the beam, while passing the needle not only through it, but also through the next 3 beads of the initial ring, so we reach the base of the next petal.

Again we collect 10 red beads, entering the black bead at the top of the beam. Now we need to connect two petals, so we collect not 10, but 6 red beads and, counting 4 beads from the beginning of the previous petal, we enter the 4th, go through all four red beads, go out into the black one at the base of the petal, and go through 3 as well the next ones, we exit at the base of the next one. In this way we form all 8 petals. This is what we ended up with:

Front side

4. Now we need to attach large beads to the tops of the red beads. We enter the red bead from below, pick up 1 large bead, go back into the red bead, go along the ring to the next red bead and repeat this for all red beads.

We need these large beads in order to outline the red beads with small “petals”. To do this, we enter one of the sides of the large petal made earlier, count out 4 beads and remove the needle from the fourth.

We collect 3-4 small beads (depending on the size of the bead we are tracing, possibly more) and enter a large black bead.

Then we collect the same amount and insert the needle into the fourth bead from the bottom of the large petal. We move the thread around the ring to the next petal. This is how we design all 8 petals.

5. At the final stage, we will decorate the tops of large petals using the picot principle.

You can start from the bottom, or from the top - from large black beads at the top of the beam. If we start from the bottom, we enter a large petal from the main ring, count out 6 beads, we will make the first picot from the sixth. To do this, we collect 3 small beads and close them into a ring, while we enter the sixth bead and immediately go into the seventh and exit from the seventh, from it we will make the next "picot". We already collect 2 beads, because we already have the third - from the previous "picot". We do this until a large black bead, make a "picot" from it and then symmetrically create as many same "pico" on the other side of the petal.

Beaded fruits in educational master classes (diagrams and videos)

Spring is here, and summer is just around the corner, which so quickly pleases us with its warmth and bright colors. With the arrival of warmer weather, you want even more bright colors. So why not charge yourself with positivity and mood now, and our master class on making bright, cheerful beadwork will help you with this.
Beaded fruits will appeal to everyone: both adults and children.
Fruits and berries from beads are woven using the technique of volumetric parallel weaving. In addition to standard size beads, you can use large beads to create your own compositions.
Finished products can also be used as jewelry, complemented with earrings or a chain to be worn as a pendant. They will be wonderful accessories for your mobile phone and just a stylish little thing.
We invite you to make several summer products. So, using convenient weaving patterns and video tutorials, you can choose a lot of options for compositions of fruits and berries from beads, but these two examples are the most original and especially summer ones.
In our master class we will tell you how to make currants from beads, strawberries or wild strawberries. For clarity, use our lesson, with which you will make fruits from beads. Available weaving patterns with interesting master classes with photos and video examples will help you make juicy fruits.

Master class on weaving currants from beads

Currants can be made in two versions: red and black.

Red currant from beads
So to make such a berry from beads you will need:

beads: red, brown, green, dark;
large size beads: red and green;
small beads: pink and white.
pin
Well, and of course thread and needle.

According to the currant beading pattern (Fig. 1. 2), you need to start by securing the needle at the end of the auxiliary beads. Add a large green bead, which you attach to the eye of the pin and guide the needle through the bead.
Then, also following the diagram, collect 7 green beads and one red and one dark. Move the beads towards the pin. Thread the needle in the opposite direction: starting from the large bead and going into three green beads. Add five red beads and one pink bead in the same way. Then take 7 more green beads, a pink bead and a dark bead, and again thread the needle in the opposite direction (from the bead to the green bead). This way you will already have a central currant branch formed. Repeat the pattern a few more times and cut the thread.
Black currant
To make a dark berry take:

the same as for red, green beads;
large green leaf-shaped beads;
several large dark beads.

Similarly, as for the first option, we fix the bead at the end of the thread, then add a leaf-shaped bead and thread it in the opposite direction (through the leaf to the bead). We press the product against the pin.
Next, the beading pattern is completely repeated, as for the red berry, only with changes for the color scheme. Complete the arrangement with a set of 11 green beads, a small bead that you thread through a dark colored bead. Place a leaf-shaped bead at the end - this is the center of the composition.
Beaded currants are ready.
In addition to currants, other berries, such as cherries, raspberries, and strawberries, will also look impressive.

DIY beaded strawberries

The material for creating this berry will be:

beads of red, black, white, yellow and green colors;
long beads (cut) green;
any material for creating voluminous berries;
wire.

This weaving pattern is very simple and perfect for beginners.
So, let's start the master class. The beaded strawberry consists of four red diamonds, which are woven using a parallel weaving technique; at times, black beads can be woven in any order. When all the diamonds are ready, connect them together with wire.
In order for the berry to be voluminous, at the end of the weaving we fill it with material.

Guided by your imagination and idea of the finished appearance of your model, you can independently change its size (reduce or increase the size of the fragments). And also add flowers and leaves.
Making a flower is very simple, all you need to do is tighten the loops on which you string white beads. Also make leaves and a cup for a flower from green cuttings.

The bright red strawberry made from beads is ready.
Handmade works are always a pleasure to give, and the process itself is incredibly exciting.
Get even more ideas for inspiration from the videos that skilled craftsmen are happy to offer you, and also study beaded fruits, the weaving patterns of which are presented in our article.
This concludes the master class on beading berries from beads, good luck in your endeavors and pleasant work!

Patterns for weaving fruits and berries from beads

Video: Weaving strawberries from beads

Comments

Lilies of the valley made of beads and beads in training master classes (video)
Do-it-yourself beaded dragonfly in master classes (diagrams)

Due to numerous requests, I have restored my master class on creating red currants from jewelry epoxy resin. Many thanks to the author! The author was inspired by the works of wonderful craftswomen Ekaterina Zverzhanskaya and Elena Grebennikova

To create currants we will need the following tools and materials:
1. Silicone mold for berries. They made it to order for me.
2. If you want to try making a silicone mold for berries yourself, you will need:
- liquid two-component silicone, it should be soft, 10-15 shore (my husband bought it for me in Moscow in the online store SLEPOK.SU, the silicone is called Mold Star 15, 900 g 950 rubles, soft, 15 shore, excellent quality, for molds for berries I need a little, I still have silicone left for a bunch of molds).
- sculpture plasticine (sold in art stores)
- syringes with a large hole, because silicone is viscous, difficult to measure (well, instead of a syringe, you can measure with something else)
- Titanium glue or any viscous glue, such as moment
- PVA glue
- beads (with the diameter you want the berries to be or make balls from self-hardening clay)
- toothpicks
- knife
- gloves, plastic glass, wooden stick.
3. The actual epoxy jewelry resin itself (I bought it in Khabarovsk in an online store, it costs about 250 rubles, it’s called Compound PEO-510KE-20/0, consisting of two components A and B, connected 4:1.
- preferably a respirator for working with epoxy (sold in construction stores, about 300 rubles)
- disposable syringes, at least three at a time, but it’s better to buy more of them in different volumes (later it will become clear to you which is more convenient for measuring the resin)
- wooden stick, gloves, plastic glass
- toothpicks, cotton swabs, Vaseline
- sandpaper
- thick transparent film (these are found, for example, in boxes of candy)
4. Dye for epoxy. In this case, I will use paste from a red gel pen (I read that you can use dyes for soap, toner from a printer, alcohol-based permanent ink, etc.) But it’s probably best to use a special dye (pigment) for epoxy resin, epoxycone, Sold in online stores, I haven’t tried it yet. I’m also looking at the non-migratory Castin “Craft transparent ink, it seems to me that they are ideal, if anyone has used them, please share your opinion on them.
5. Organic-based stained glass paint (not water-based) red, yellow, green (or blue, can be combined with yellow to get green).
6. Varnish for epoxy products, I used glossy acrylic varnish for plastic
7. Oil paints (a little for leaves, tails and seeds) grass green, white, yellow, brown
- respectively brushes, thinner, stack, mold, scissors, tape, thin green wire, latex or PVA glue
8. A little self-hardening clay about the size of a walnut (I have samovar porcelain)
9. A candle, a pin or a knife with a thin blade, such as is used for protruding, in my opinion it is called a scalpel knife or a craft knife.

So, if you want to try to make a mold for berries yourself, then we will need the following materials and tools, I listed them above, so I won’t stop there.

Take toothpicks, dip the sharp end into the foam and insert the beads into the hole. If the hole is small, try enlarging it with an awl or sharpening a toothpick. You can use wire instead of a toothpick. The main thing is to glue the beads tightly! The beads should be even with a smooth surface, so that the berry will then be even and smooth (the holes can be covered with plasticine or clay so that the silicone does not flow there).

While the beads are drying, we make a sprue, I think that’s what it’s called. We cut out such a platform from sculptural plasticine; you must decide the size yourself, depending on how many beads you want to place on it. My area is approximately 8cm by 5cm. Plasticine can be very hard, if it is inconvenient to work with, then place it on the battery for a while, it will become softer. It also becomes more flexible from the warmth of your hands.
(Or try pouring silicone into an unnecessary plastic container).

The beads are stuck. Now we cut off the excess part of the stick and leave the bead with the stem about 1.5-2 cm.

We insert it into the sprue. Please note - the beads are practically in contact with the sprue, this is how it should be. Do not attach the beads too close to each other; silicone should flow freely between them.

Then you probably need to spray it with a special product, I think it’s called a separator, it’s probably better to use it, because... it goes on in an even layer, but I don’t have a separator, so I smear it with Vaseline, it also comes off well, but you need to smear it in a thin even layer; if you apply it thickly, the silicone will not lie evenly on the bead and, accordingly, the epoxy berry will then have an unsmooth surface. So we coat the beads and sprue with a thin layer. They told me that I don’t have to apply Vaseline, everything will still come off well.

Now we are building these walls, the so-called formwork, you can probably make them from cardboard, I made them from the same sculptural plasticine, you can glue them using titanium or moment glue. The walls should fit tightly to the sprue, you can look at it in the light, if there are gaps, then seal them with the same plasticine.

We put on gloves. Open the jars with silicone. For each jar, take a stick and stir. I have chopsticks for sushi, maybe thinner bamboo skewers.

We measure 1:1. I measured with syringes with a wide hole. It’s a little inconvenient, the mass is viscous, but pull the syringe in several times and everything will be filled, then let the excess liquid drain from the syringe and combine everything in a plastic glass, I have a sour cream bowl. I don’t remember exactly, but I think it took me 10 syringes of 5 ml from each jar to make the form. Mix well, 3-5 minutes, there should be no streaks left, no smell, but it’s better to wear a respirator.

We pour silicone into our sprue. This silicone is a beautiful turquoise shade. It is recommended to pour it at one point so that the silicone is poured evenly, I poured it over the entire surface. As you can see, I didn’t attach the walls very tightly and the silicone found a hole and leaked out, but it’s not scary. We wait 4 hours. I know there is silicone that hardens in almost 30 minutes, I would not recommend it, it seems to me that there is no need to rush here, let the voids be filled slowly but surely.
I had a few bubbles that came out easily with a toothpick. I know when making molds from silicone, craftsmen sometimes use a vacuum or compressors, I don’t know the exact name - for degassing, but this silicone is of excellent quality, it is even written in the instructions that it does not require vacuum degassing. It really freezes tightly and is very soft.

4 hours have passed. To be honest, I couldn’t resist and removed the formwork after 3 hours, and the sprue after 4 hours. Everything comes off perfectly, I forgot to coat the walls with Vaseline, but the plasticine came away from the silicone without any problems.

So, on the left is the form that the craftswoman made for me to order, and on the left is my very clumsy form. As you can see, I’m not an expert in making molds, well, after all, I did it for the first time, the surface of the plasticine was not even, and I didn’t try very hard and was generally not sure that something would work out, I did it for speed, not for quality . But the most important thing is that in my form the berries turn out just as smooth and neat!

Their bottom part is like this.

If you glued the beads to the sticks poorly, then most likely your formwork will come off with the sticks, but the beads will remain in the holes. It's not scary, try to turn them straight in the mold and find a hole in the bead, the bead turns easily, because... it was previously lubricated with Vaseline. When you find a hole, insert a pin, an awl, I inserted a stack. Pry it up and carefully pull it out, it comes out easily, because... silicone is soft and pliable.

Please note that such a large bead easily fits through such a small hole. If the holes are very small, it means that the beads did not fit tightly and the silicone has flowed under the bead, this is not a problem, the holes can be cut in a circle with scissors.

Well, now, in fact, let’s start making the currants themselves. I photographed the further process before I made my mold, so the following photos show a custom-made mold, I am very pleased with it. Here are the tools and materials that we will need at this stage. They are all described above, so I won’t go into detail.

Put on a respirator and open the window. This is important because The resin releases harmful substances before it hardens.

If you had the resin with the hardener in a cool place (mine says to store in a dark, cool place, but you bought another resin, it was stored at room temperature), then take it out in advance, it should warm up. Even many craftsmen recommend heating the resin, that is, component A, a little. For example, put a jar of it on the battery. Or pour hot water into a plate and place a container with resin there. All this is done in order to reduce the carbonation of the resin, i.e. If you immediately mix the cold resin with the hardener, there will be more bubbles. I am inexperienced in this, so I did as advised.
So the resin has heated up, put on a respirator and carefully stir component A, i.e. resin with a wooden stick.

Measure component A into a disposable syringe. I have 4:1, that is, 4 parts A resin and 1 part B hardener. (However, on the website about this compound in the table of parameters they write that the ratio by mass is 4:1, and by volume 3.3:1. I got a little confused and decided to experiment, measure this and that ratio with a syringe, took 2 plastic cups and tried different ratio, so - the resin froze in both ratios. For this form, it took me, if I remember correctly, 20 ml of A and 5 ml of B. In short, we settled on pouring A into a clean, dry container.

Before pouring in B, that is, the hardener, we can tint the resin at this stage. I already wrote about dyes above; my gel paste is red. You only need a little of it, literally a few drops. I use a toothpick to pry up the gel in the rod and mix it into the resin with this stick. I repeat, do not overdo it with the dye, then I will show you the berry that turned out when I over-dyed the resin.
Now add hardener B to the colored resin. The hardener is liquid, be careful not to splash. Now be patient. Stir well with a wooden stick, but with slow movements so that there are fewer bubbles. Some people say 5 minutes is enough, others say 15 minutes. I sit down, put on a respirator and stir for 15 minutes. If you don't mix well, the resin may not harden. You can imagine what will happen if the resin does not harden in these holes, such a sticky and viscous thing that even soap cannot be washed off your hands properly. Unfortunately, such a nuisance happened to me once, either I interfered badly, or I was distracted and I mixed up the ratio. I was sure that now I would have to throw out the silicone mold for the berries. But I overcame this problem and now my uniform is as good as new. What helped me was regular Vaseline and cotton swabs, you need a lot of them. First, I used sticks to remove the resin from the pits. And then, using the same sticks smeared with Vaseline, I cleaned the pits and the surface of the mold, everything was cleaned perfectly, but I had to spend the whole day off on this, which was not very pleasant, so strictly follow the instructions and do not get distracted. Before pouring it into a mold, you can practice with unnecessary containers to understand what quality of resin you have and how it hardens. Twice I bought resin from the same manufacturer, with the same instructions, it seemed the same, but it turned out to be different and hardened differently (one hardened after 12 hours, and the other more than 24 hours).
Now we leave this composition for an hour (they write that it is possible for 3, but I do not recommend it, it becomes thicker and more difficult to pour into the mold). This mixture must be left to degas. Bubbles that rise to the top can be easily removed with a toothpick.

While the mixture sits, you can prepare future berry seeds. It’s better to make them in advance; I made them in the evening and poured them over the berries in the morning. So, I’ll warn you right away that I don’t even remember what kind of currant seeds there are, what shape and color they are. I couldn't find this information on the Internet. Therefore, I’ll wait for the real currants to ripen, then I’ll look into them (I’ll probably be surprised how far I was from real currants). But for now it’s pure improvisation. I lightly tint a piece of clay with white oil paint. I tear off a drop and make these dumplings.

Depending on the size of your berries, make larger and smaller seeds accordingly, and glue them onto toothpicks. You can glue it the wrong way, but sideways somehow, in general, I’m not your advisor here, I don’t know how exactly they are located. We make as many sticks as you have berries. You can immediately glue the seeds onto the green wire, then below I will explain why I first glue on the stick, and then use the wire.

Now you need a transparent, thick film. This one is found in a box of chocolates. You can take it from a plastic bottle, but you just need to choose a flat surface. But I found it in my son’s room in a box from under a typewriter. You need to cut out round pieces that are smaller than a penny. There are as many pieces as there are berries. We pierce the middle with an awl and make a large hole so that it can easily fit onto a toothpick. Why we need this you will understand later. Unfortunately, I didn’t take a photo of these roundels, but you will see them below.

Our mixture of resin and hardener has stood for an hour, now it can be poured. Pre-lubricate the dimples and surface with Vaseline using cotton swabs. Next, take a new, clean syringe with a thin hole, fill the syringe and carefully pour it into each hole. Now let it sit for 30-60 minutes. Remove any bubbles that appear with a toothpick.
By the way, in this batch of berries I went too far with the dye, the resin should not be so red, below I will show what it should be.

Now we insert sticks with seeds, with large seeds into large holes, with small ones into smaller holes. Do not pay attention that the sticks are unstable, then we will fix them. Take your time to remove any excess resin that spilled out when we inserted the sticks. Let it sit for another hour. As the resin dries, try to ensure that there is a heap of resin in the dimples; to do this, roll the spilled resin into the dimples with a toothpick.
I forgot to say that it is desirable that the resin be exactly the same light color, and not as burgundy as in the previous photo.

Now that the holes are well filled and the resin is thickening, you can fix it with the same round pieces that we cut out in advance. Let me remind you that they should fit onto the sticks without effort, so make a larger hole in the film (I pierce the carpet with an awl). Now you can remove the excess resin with a cotton swab, or you can not remove it; when the resin hardens, it will very easily come away from the silicone like a film. From time to time, look at this form, adjust the sticks, they should stand straight. At first they tilt, but then the resin thickens and they stand straight.
It is advisable to pour the berries on the weekend, so that in the morning you can monitor how the hardening is progressing during the day, and in the evening you can admire the berries (but there is resin that is better to stand for a day, and there is one that hardens after 12 hours).

This is a bowl with residue in which there was a mixture with resin, you don’t have to throw it away, then you can watch how the resin hardens, touch it with a stick. Don’t rush to take out the berry; if it doesn’t have time to harden properly, then you risk pulling out not round berries, but ones that are elongated like a sausage, because... Through a small hole in the mold, the unfrozen berry will stretch out greatly when it comes out. It will only come out round if it hardens completely!
The mold with the cooling resin and this bowl should be placed somewhere away so as not to breathe too much.
Let me remind you once again about the color, it should be translucent like this. Despite the fact that I tinted the resin with red gel now, the resin is yellowish in color, don’t worry, the berries will be tinted later.

Now, while the berries are hardening, I’ll take a break and show you another resin from which I made the berries, it’s not cheap, more than 600 rubles. It is already ready-made red, I thought that I would achieve greater transparency with such a resin.

So I mixed it 1:1, a convenient ratio, the resin is already painted, the color is red-orange. But the berries, in my opinion, turn out darkish and not as transparent as can be achieved from colorless resin.

Here I will show you the unsuccessful berries. On the left, the berry turns out to be such a dark burgundy color; when you overdo it with the dye, it will no longer become transparent. Next to it is a berry with a pronounced pit; this is what the berry will look like if you haven’t completely filled the pits with resin. The next one from left to right is a berry made from ready-made painted red resin, in general, you can also make berries, and the last one is the most successful (already painted), the photo without the sun is probably not very visible.

Now look, at the end you will have a berry approximately the same as here on a toothpick, as you can see it is quite cloudy, if you compare it with the finished berries, don’t be upset, then we will make it more transparent with the help of stained glass paint and varnish.

Let's continue the process. We cut off the sticks with scissors or pruning shears and remove the round film. We smooth out any unevenness with sandpaper or a nail file. The photo is dark and it is not very clear that there are irregularities at the base; they are easily leveled and rubbed with sandpaper or a nail file.

Now, in the place where the stick was, we make a deep hole, as if we were screwing it in, you can use an awl or a pin, I used a stack to make holes. Do it carefully, I got cut all over while I was doing it, a sharp object easily slips onto my hand. Then we cut off the green wire, dip it in glue and insert it into the berry. I was already advised in discussions that you can immediately glue the seeds onto the wire and not bother with toothpicks. I use a toothpick, because it seems to me more convenient to clean out unevenness, that is, I cut off the toothpick and rub it well in this place, with wire it will be more difficult, it will get in the way when sanding, but you can also use a nail file to smooth it around. Therefore, you yourself try what is more convenient for you.

While it dries you can make a ponytail. We add a little brown paint to the self-hardening clay, roll out a small flat cake on the palm of your hand, use scissors to make it terry, twist it, you can coat it with glue, cut off the excess, glue it to the berry with PVA glue or latex glue.

Now we light a candle (or over the stove), heat a knife with a thin blade or a pin and draw the veins, remove the excess blackness with a napkin. The blackness appears from the contact of metal and fire when the candle just begins to burn, then there is almost no blackness and if you want darker grooves, light a new candle.
The needle produces sloppy thick grooves; thin blades are probably better.

We take organic stained glass paint (not water based) and carefully apply the paint to the berry with a brush. It is necessary to paint without streaks, because the paint is not easy, and excess drips are difficult to remove. Another point is that brushes become tanned after using such paint and no solvent can clean it off. In the store, I asked how to wash the brush after such paint, and the seller said it’s irreversible, just throw it away. So, don’t throw it away, soak it in water and detergent, then wipe it dry with a napkin. As this paint dries, it will all crumble, fluff the brush when dry.
Then, at the end, the berry can be coated with a special varnish for epoxy products, sold in art stores, or you can coat it with glossy acrylic varnish for plastics. To be honest, I forgot to cover the branches and they were just painted with stained glass paint. Yellow goes well on the berry, but green turns out very pale.
In general, I want to order other dyes that I indicated at the beginning of the work, it seems to me that the berries will be more natural with them.

Well, somehow it happened. Once again, look how cloudy it was and how bright it becomes after painting with stained glass paint (red and yellow), so, I repeat, do not overdo it with resin tinting, otherwise no stained glass paint will make it transparent.

Well, the usual steps when we make a leaf for any flower. We use scissors to make the teeth, use a stack to thin out the edges, you can use a stack to tear the edges and make tears in the middle of the leaf, you can make the leaf slightly wavy, mold it, I don’t have currant leaf mold, I took a universal one and an apple tree leaf, of course it doesn’t work out very well. I’ll wait until summer, I have a lot of silicone left, I spent very little on the mold for the berries, then I’ll make different molds, including currant leaves. Glue the green wire and dry it.

Gradually squeeze out yellow, white, brown, green oil paints. Pour a little thinner and lay out the napkin. Next, we tint as usual. We dip it lightly into the desired color, if necessary, if the paint is very dry, we dip it in thinner, then we dip it in a napkin, I don’t really like tinting with thinner. I like it when the brush is almost dry and clean, with a minimum of paint, and blot off the excess with a napkin.

The one on the right has already been touched up, the one on the left hasn’t yet. I went over the edges with yellow, brown (diluted with white), the torn edges were also darkened, like signs of withering. Blend with a clean, dry brush. (You don’t need to coat the leaves with varnish, just the berries!)

We prepare the tape, fold it in several layers, cut it lengthwise into two parts, we need a thin tape

We are preparing the berries; at first the small, unripe ones will be collected.

We collect the twig, fasten it with tape, without glue, you can stretch it slightly.

It's time for leaves, add it to the twig, securing it with tape.

If desired, you can roll up a twig with clay and tint it brown, or make antennae out of clay. You don’t have to wrap the wire at the top berry with tape, it’s a bit thick, start fastening it from the next row.

So the red currant sprig made from epoxy jewelry resin is ready. Now you can put such a twig in a vase, decorate the rim or add it to the composition.

And my red currant branches will decorate this flower and berry panel.

Source http://stranamasterov.ru/node/609456?tid=451

From beads and beads you can create models not only of flowers, but also of berries. When making the model, parallel and needle weaving techniques are used.

To work you will need:

round beads No. 10:
20 g green;
1 g golden or silver;
20-30 beads No. 4-8 black;
about 12 m of green wire with a diameter of 0.3 ml or copper wire;
threads or paper to match the green of leaves and bark of bush branches.

Execution order.

Berries

Blackcurrant berries are each made separately and placed on the branches in small clusters and singly. To make a berry on a 15-20 cm long wire, collect three golden-colored beads, connect the ends of the wire and string a large black bead on them. Then string a green bead onto one end of the wire and pass the other end towards it, in accordance with Figure 1. Twist the ends of the wire together at a distance of several centimeters, thus making the required number of berries.

Leaves

For each sheet you need:

one piece of wire 60 cm long;
2 pieces of 40 cm and 2 pieces of 30 cm.

Currant leaves consist of three or five elements and are made sequentially, starting from the central fragment, in accordance with Figure 2:

1-3-5-8-9-11-13-12-10-9-7-2-1

Then on each side they are connected by one identical fragment:

1-2-3-4-6-8-7-5-3-2-2-1-1

If the sheet consists of three fragments, then its execution ends there. If it should be made of five elements, then it is necessary to attach one more fragment on one side:

1-2-3-4-4-3-2-2-1-1

The schematic appearance of the finished sheet is shown in the figure.

There can be as many leaves as you like, their number is determined by your design.

After all the necessary components are ready, all that remains is, showing maximum imagination, to arrange the currant branches in accordance with Figure 3 and decorate them, wrap all the stems and branches with threads of the appropriate tone. This model, depending on the size of the beads used, can serve as both an element of wall decoration for the kitchen or cottage, as well as a brooch or part of a boutonniere.

I have been working at school for 13 years, I started as a master of industrial training, and I have been working as a technology teacher for 4 years. One day, when I went into the store, I saw a book on needlework, “Flowers from Beads,” and I really liked the works presented in it. And when they offered to work as a teacher of additional education, I agreed with pleasure. Our craftswoman circle has existed for 3 years. We started with the children with simple products. We have participated more than once in creative exhibitions of children’s work at the district level, where we received awards.

I believe that working with beads not only develops fine motor skills of the hands, and therefore the brain, but also shapes a person’s aesthetic and artistic taste. I am also interested in cross stitch, machine embroidery, patchwork, appliqué, origami from fabric and paper, crocheting and knitting. Having such skills, I try to instill in children an interest in arts and crafts. Girls and boys attend the club with great enthusiasm and try to please their family and friends with handmade crafts for every holiday.

Today we have a master class on weaving blackcurrant beads.

You'll need:

Wire with a diameter of 0.3 millimeters.
Black beads with a diameter of 10 millimeters.
Beads color No. 2202 (transparent with an orange rod, for
convenience, I will simply call it orange).
Green beads size No. 10.

Take a piece of wire 50 centimeters long and put 1 orange bead on it, and then pass the other end of the wire through it. Pull tightly, the bead should be in the center of the working wire.

Take a black bead and at the same time put it on two pieces of wire and push it towards the orange bead.

The first berry is ready. I made 21 berries, but you can make more or less.

Let's start collecting the fruits. Take one currant and braid another berry onto it, and then another 1. You will get three berries on top. Next, add one berry to the left and right (2 times). So you need to make several branches depending on how many fruits you have made.

To weave a sheet, you need to cut five pieces of wire. One is 50 centimeters long, and the other 4 are 40 cm. The currant leaf consists of 5 parts, we will weave each part separately.
Let's start with a small part. Place 1 green bead on the wire, and then 2 more and pass the second wire through them and tighten the first element of the sheet tightly, since it should be in the middle of the wire (as in all parts of the sheet).

Thus, you have woven 2 rows (these rows are woven in all 5 parts of the sheet), and then proceed with parallel weaving according to the pattern.

3rd row – 2 green beads.
4th row – 3 green beads.
5th row - 2 green beads.
Row 6 - 2 green beads.
Row 7: 1 green bead.

Middle part of the leaf.

3rd row – 3 beads.
4th row – 4 beads.
Row 5 – 5 beads.

Then pass one end of the wire into the gap of the small part between rows 3 and 4 and continue weaving.

Row 6 – 4 beads.
Row 7 – 3 beads.
Row 8 – 2 beads.
Row 9 – 1 bead.
Large part of the leaf.
3rd row – 3 beads.
4th row – 3 beads.
Row 5 – 4 beads.
Row 6 – 4 beads.

Then pass one end of the wire into the gap of the middle part between the 2nd and 3rd row and continue making the sheet.

Row 7 – 5 beads.
Row 8 – 4 beads.
Row 9 – 4 beads.
Row 10 – 3 beads.
11th row – 3 beads.
Row 12 – 2 beads.
Row 13 – 1 bead.