Perfume House Guerlain. The secret romance of bourgeois luxury. History of the Guerlain brand

“Twilight worries me. I prefer dawn to them: when the aromas are sharpened by the humidity of the passing night. The scents wake up and come to life…. A symphony of colors, a thrill of aromas. Absolute harmony that I want to capture in myself in order to recreate later ... Every moment in my corner of Ile-de-France is reflected in the smells that I am obsessed with ... I believe that one day I will die, stunned by aromas. — Jean Paul Guerlain.

The House of Guerlain was founded in 1828, and throughout the 184 years of its existence, the dynasty has carefully preserved traditions. During this time, many masterpieces were created that were included in the golden fund of world perfume and cosmetic art, and perfumes Eau de Cologne Imperiale, Jicky, Shalimar are today considered the cultural heritage of France.

Perfume is the most powerful form of memory,” says Jean-Paul Guerlain. This is a double tribute to the very nature of perfume and the longevity of the House, created in 1828 by his ancestor Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain. After all, for 170 years the name “Guerlain” wear perfumes of the highest quality.

The French tradesman Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain, in search of happiness, left his town of Abbeville and moved to London, where he got a job at a soap factory. Seriously interested in chemistry, he quickly advanced in the service and returned to his homeland already as a representative of an English company. Soon he managed to create his own soap factory in Paris, for the sale of the products of which he opened a small shop on Rivoli Street in 1828. Pierre-Francois-Pascal was fond of creating aromatic compositions, and then hardly anyone could have imagined that the store owner would become the personal perfumer of the royal dynasties of Europe ... In the meantime, a tiny factory began to produce Guerlain's first floral colognes "Senteurs des Champs" in a remote Parisian suburb ( "Field Paths") and "Esprit de Fleurs" ("Flower Fragrance"). In his shop you could also buy other aromatic products: shaving lotions, lavender water, fragrant powder. Compositions that the perfumer made with his own hands were especially popular. Gradually, his clientele became more and more distinguished.

Napoleon III went down in history as a subtle connoisseur of female beauty, a great lover of luxurious balls and grandiose holidays. Following the tradition of his royal predecessors, he married the beautiful Eugenia Montijo, a Spanish aristocrat, daughter of a Spanish count. The history of this marriage is not quite usual ...

Her mother Mary's parents lived in Paris and were followers of Napoleon Bonaparte. Then Maria, while still a girl, made friends with the son of Napoleon's daughter-in-law, Queen Hortense, Louis Napoleon. Once a boy brought his girlfriend a bouquet of violets with a golden ring on it. Subsequently, after many years, it turned out that it was wedding ring Empress Josephine, which all the servants have long and unsuccessfully searched for in the palace. Maria, having learned what kind of relic she possesses, gave the ring to her daughter, hoping that it would bring her happiness. Once in London, Eugenia met Prince Napoleon, and he remembered the ring that many years ago had been given so frivolously, but so beautifully, to a friend from childhood games. The prince considered himself somehow incomprehensibly mysteriously connected with the young Eugenia. Mary herself, at every opportunity, reminded him of this, trying to make her daughter catch the eye of the future monarch, her dresses were certainly decorated with bouquets of violets. Once, in 1851, the lovely Eugenia appeared at the ball with violets in her hair and a bouquet on her shoulder, Napoleon III was finally defeated, after 2 years Eugenia became the French Empress.

Empress Eugenie in 1856

A tall, blue-eyed Spaniard, as brilliant as the sky before sunset, she increasingly appeared in salons.

Octave Aubrey, Eugenia's biographer, wrote about her: "She had a clear, sober, almost masculine mind, although she lacked education. But she was more balanced than her mother, was not so greedy for entertainment and inspired more respect. She she wore evening dresses, always made in the best ateliers, with a huge neckline, which showed off very feminine, gently sloping shoulders... In the manner of getting up or sitting down, walking around the salon, bending slightly, in the ability to showed so much grace and undoubted dignity that it was impossible not to be amazed.

On January 30, 1853, 45-year-old Napoleon III and 26-year-old Eugenia were married in Notre Dame Cathedral by the Archbishop of Paris. On the eve of Eugene and Louis concluded their marriage in the Tuileries. Crowds of Parisians cheered for the Empress, dressed in white satin dress, the couple greeted subjects on the balcony at the Tuileries for a long time.

Jean-Leon Gerome - Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie, 1864

Empress Eugenie in 1880

The image of Eugenia was painted by contemporaries-artists, he also inspired Guerlain, who, for the wedding of the crowned couple, presented the young bride with the fragrance "Eau de Cologne Imperiale" (Cologne Imperial) just created especially for her. Both the form and the content of Guerlain's creation were striking: the bottle was made of crystal, and bees burned on the cork with gold - the emblem of the Bonapartes, the glorious heritage of the "Kings over the Kings" of the Merovingians. The fragrance of the cologne impressed Evgenia with its tenderness and sophistication. Soon the Empress granted Guerlain the title of Perfumer of His Majesty's Court, and Napoleon III allowed the use of gilded bees to decorate the rest of the bottles - so the bee became a symbol of the House of Guerlain. Later, golden honeycombs appeared on the bottle. The fame of the remarkable perfumer spread throughout all European dynasties: royal compositions were created for His Majesty the Kings of England, Spain, Austria, Romania, as well as for the Royal Court of the Romanovs. Most famous people epoch used aromas of Guerlain - Sarah Bernhardt, Balzac. Upon his death in 1964, Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain left his perfume business in excellent condition and the tradition of the House to his sons.

Very soon, his original perfume stands out among the production of fragrant waters of the time. Under Napoleon III, Guerlain opens a new store on Mira Street, which later became a center of sophistication and luxury. Napoleon III, and especially Empress Eugenie, were interested in Guerlain's compositions. Especially for the red-haired beauty of the queen, Pierre Guerlain created the perfume Eai Imperiale (Imperial water), which still exists today. Framed in gold and strewn with bees, the bottle has not changed since its creation. Perfume is suitable for both women and men, thanks to the magnificent bouquet of lemon, bergamot, orange blossom and rosemary.

They say that, coming to the apartments of his wife, Napoleon used them. Following these spirits, Guerlain releases Parfum Imperial (Imperial perfume), Bouquet de rimperatrice (Empress's Bouquet), Bouquet de Napoleon (Napoleon's Bouquet) and Del ice du Prince (Prince's Delight).

The sons of Pierre-Aimé and Gabriel took over the business in 1890. In 1889, Aimé created the Jicky perfume, one of the first modern perfumes to contain synthetic fragrances. And although they were presented as a men's fragrance, they instantly captivated women as well.

Jacques Guerlain was so sure that one day he would have a shop on the most famous avenue that in 1904 he creates the perfume Champs-Elysees (Champs Elysees) and releases them in a bottle in the shape of a turtle.

On one of the evenings of 1912, when the sun has already set and the night has not yet set, when time seems to stop and vibrate in a state of love, friendship, aching tenderness, when a person is in harmony with nature, and infinity is in harmony with the moment, Jacques Guerlain experienced an extraordinary feeling that cannot be expressed in words ... Only spirits can do this, and he creates his masterpiece L "Heure Bleue (Blue Hour), an incomparable fragrance that combines rose, heliotrope, iris with jasmine, vanilla and neroli.

His other two creations Mitsouko (1921) and Shalimar (1925) perfectly and accurately reflect the spirit of the crazy years. Mitsouko are said to have been named after a Japanese woman who fell in love with a British officer during the Russo-Japanese War. Here, amber, vetiver and peach, oakmoss, lilac and hesperides create a surprisingly intoxicating chypre-fruity scent.

As for Shalimar, seductive, "forbidden", seductive, sensual, passionate, enveloping, Jacques Guerlain was inspired to create them by a true story that has become a legend. great ruler Shah Jahan of India loved his wife Mumtaz Mahal very much. She died in childbirth, and the king was so inconsolable that he built the most magnificent mausoleum of white marble, the Taj Mahal, in memory of his beloved. It adjoined the wonderful garden of Shalimar ("Garden of Love"). The unique creation gave birth to one of the most famous perfumes in the world, based on frankincense, benzoin, patchouli, vanilla, opopanax, bergamot and iris with a touch of amber.

In the 30s, another unforgettable milestone appears: Vol de nuit (Night Flight, 1933) - in memory of Saint-Exupery.

In 1956, the tradition of the House of Guerlain is continued by Jean-Paul Guerlain, one of the most respected "smellers" of our time. In 1959, he launches Vetiver, a woody-spicy fragrance that combines the scents of vetiver root from the island of Haiti, lemon, pepper, nutmeg and tobacco.

Then the perfume Habit Rouge (Red Cloak) appears, about the creation of which Jean-Paul Guerlain himself said the following: "Clubs of bluish haze tangled in the crimson laces of sunset summer. The ringing silence of the morning was broken by the barking of dogs, accompanied by the commanding singing of a hunting horn. Flashed and disappeared with a bright red flash the cloak of a rider who sharply drew on the reins of an Arabian steed. Was this not a dream? Yet the air held the memory of the Knight of the Red Cloak, thrilling autumn scents mixed with sensual notes of tobacco and leather." The smells of bergamot, vanilla, birch bark envelop and relax, creating an original warm aura.

His perfumes Chamade (Heartbeat, 1969), Raguiguet (1975), Nahema (1979), Jardin de Bagatelle (Garden of Fun) continue floral motifs as the artist perceives them. “Never in my life will I forget either the aroma of peonies and lilies from my grandfather’s garden, or the smell of honeysuckle tending upwards. And the true shock will never be erased from my memory: the tart smell of fragrant tobacco ... and mountain daffodils, I saw them once in Switzerland. .. plumeria dope that struck me in Senegal. Having been captured by the "Garden of Fun" and "Garden of Love", lilac, forest lily of the valley or divine levkoy, I believe that I will die, happy, choking on smells "(J.-P. Guerlain, Decoration internationale, April 1985).

The ideal perfume, said Coco Chanel, is one that "anticipates the appearance of a woman and reminds of her when she leaves" ...

"Perfume is the only thing a woman should be faithful to all her life," says Catherine Deneuve, for whom the unique Nahema fragrance was created.

1995 is marked by the release of Un Air de Samsara (Aura of Samsara), fresh, light, delicate, airy, mysterious and sweet, a mixture of woody and floral fragrances. Today Guerlain is synonymous with perfume. Since the opening of the company, more than 200 types of perfumes from the Guerlain company have entered the market. Many of them have become classics and all, without exception, deserve a separate story.

Guerlain(Guerlain, Guerlain) is one of the oldest perfume houses in the world, founded in 1828 by Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain.
Since 1994, the exclusive right to use the brand Guerlain owned by the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy Corporation.
Company turnover of about 350 million euros

Story
Guerlain was founded in 1828 by Pierre François Pascal Guerlain, a Frenchman who received his chemical education in England. At first, this perfume house existed as a drug store, in the cellars of which Guerlain mixed his fragrances. The clients were a few, but quite famous people, including, for example, Balzac and Napoleon III, for whose wedding the Eau de Cologne Impériale cologne was specially created. He later created scents for Queens Victoria and Isabella II of Spain. Pierre Francois Guerlain died in 1864.
He was succeeded by his sons Aimé and Gabriel Guerlain. Aimé Guerlain takes the family business to the next level, releasing successful fragrances one after another, while Gabriel handles the management. Aimé Guerlain made the following perfume achievements:
Decomposition of fragrance into three components - top note, heart note and base note.
The combination of natural and synthetic ingredients in perfumery.
Creation of the first unisex fragrance - Guerlain Jicky (1889)
In 1910 Aimé Guerlain died and the company was inherited by Gabriel's sons Jacques and Pierre. Pierre gets the commercial component, and Jacques takes over the composition of the fragrances. During the existence of the house under the management of Jacques and Pierre, the family business flourishes, internalized and popularized. Guerlain begins to create perfumes for movie and pop stars, and also begins selling its products around the world.
Jacques Guerlain died in 1956, and his grandson, Jean-Paul Guerlain, took over as head of the company. Under his leadership, the company turns into a world famous brand.
In 1994, Jean-Paul Guerlain sold the company to the luxury mega-corporation LVMH, which owns the Guerlain brand to this day. For another 8 years after the sale, he continued to create fragrances, in parallel with a group of new young perfumers. “However, with the sale, a lot has changed, and first of all, the rhythm. If earlier Guerlain was in no hurry and prepared each novelty for several years, now in 1999 alone, nine fragrances were thrown onto the market, many of which are limited editions, that is, they were originally designed not for eternity, but for momentary demand.”
Guerlain left his company in 2002 but later returned to work.
In 2011, he continues to create fragrances, the creative heir can be considered Thierry Wasser, or, according to the company, a grandson (about 20 years old) who started to work in perfumery.

Characteristic
Olga Weinstein describes the main principles of the house in this way: “It is worth dwelling on the perfumery principles of the Guerlain house in more detail.
Firstly, Guerlain's compositions are never pretentious, "fancy": their components do not "play hide and seek" and do not obscure each other, since there are not many of them. For example, in the perfume Nahema, which in 1979 the perfumer dedicated to his favorite actress Catherine Deneuve, there are only twelve components.
Second, there is a clear preference natural ingredients. Of course, one cannot do without artificial materials, but their share should not exceed 20%. The Guerlains have always strictly monitored the quality of raw materials, and now Jean-Paul annually inspects the plantations of odorous plants and factories for the production of essential oils.
Thirdly, great importance is attached to the design of bottles: "a bottle for a fragrance is like a dress for a woman."

Series Guerlain
Aqua Allegoria: Herba Fresca, Pamplelune, Rosa Magnifica, Lavande Velours and Ylang & Vanille (all 1999); Anisia Bella (2004), Mentafollia (2004), Orange Magnifica and Pivoine Magnifica (2005), Tutti Kiwi (2006), Grosellina (2006), Angelique Lilas & Mandarine Basilic (2007), Figue Iris & Laurier Reglisse (2008), Tiare -Mimosa and Cherry Blossom (2009), Flora Nymphea (2010), Bouquet Numero 1 (2010).
Les Parisiennes (2005) - a series of re-released fragrances: Kadine, Sous Le Vent, Djedi, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Voilette de Madame, Vega, Mayotte (original Mahora), Liu, Purple Fantasy, Attrape-Coeur (original Guet Apens), Derby, Ode, Vetiver Pour Elle, Philtre d'Amour, Chamade Pour Homme, Candide Effluve, L'Ame d'un Heros (original Coriolan).
L'Art et la Matiere: Cuir Beluga, Rose Barbare and Angelique Noire, Bois d'Armenie (2006), Iris Ganache (2007), Cruel Gardenia (2008), Tonka Imperiale (2010).

In culture
For Russian culture, these French perfumes have long been considered synonymous with luxury.
N. E. Heinze (1898): “There was both the St. Petersburg “light” and “half-light”, the latter trying to outshine the first with artificial radiance - the radiance of jewels and completely achieving this. Modest "secular roses", delicate flowers with a delicate aroma of purity and innocence, timidly huddled aside in front of the lush "camellias", which received their stupefying aroma from the modern Parisian alchemist Guerlain, who found a way to restore youth and beauty and by this means to make gold for himself.
The brand and fragrance of Mitsouko are listed by Gella at the Woland Variety show ("The Master and Margarita"):

The girl, albeit hoarsely, sweetly sang, burping, something incomprehensible, but, judging by the women's faces in the stalls, very seductive:
- Guerlain, Chanel number five, Mitsuko, Narcissus Noir, evening gowns, cocktail dresses...

Georgy Ivanov. “Third Rome” (1929): “The air of Astoria, heated by heaters, smelled somehow languid. It was a delicate mixture, where there was a little bit of everything: N. Guerlain, and the spirit of counterintelligence, and Egyptian tobacco, and blood ... "
Valentin Kataev in the book “My Diamond Crown” describes: “the highest type of woman is a celestial: a beauty, mostly blonde with diamonds in her ears, delicate as a pink petal, in a long evening dress with a bare back, slender, long-legged, in silver shoes, made up , powdered, striking with the length of curved eyelashes, behind the bars of which eyes narcotic shine, fragrant with the perfumes of Coty, even Guerlain, - on a narrow hand with raspberry nails, a gold watch sprinkled with diamonds, in a purse a powder box with a mirror and a powder puff. NEP product. It is inviolable and inaccessible to our brother. You can see her at the Metropol in the evening."

Select brand 12 Parfumeurs Français Abercrombie & Fitch Acqua di Genova Acqua di Parma Acqua di Stresa Adidas Adolfo Dominguez Adrienne Vittadini Aedes de Venustas Aerin Lauder Afnan Agatha Ruiz De La Prada Agent Provocateur Agonist Air-Val International AJ Arabia Ajmal AK France Alessandro Dell` Acqua Alexa Lixfeld Alexander McQueen Alexandre. J Alfred Dunhill Alfred Sung Alice & Peter Alla Pugachova Parfums Alviero Martini Alyson Oldoini Amouage Amouroud Anat Fritz Andrea Maack Andree Putman Angel Schlesser Anna Sui Annayake Anne Fontaine Annick Goutal Antonia's Flowers Antonio Banderas Antonio Puig Antonio Visconti Anucci Apothia Aquolina Aramis Armaf Armand Basi Arno Sorel Asgharali Atelier Cologne Atelier Flou Atkinsons Attar Collection Aubusson Austin Reed Avon Ayala Moriel Azzaro Azzedine Alaia Badgley Mischka Baldessarini Baldinini Balenciaga Banana Republic Barbie Bebe Bella Bellissima Ben Sherman Benefit Benetton Bentley Betsey Johnson Beyonce Biehl Parfumkunstwerke Bijan Bill Blass Biotherm Blood Concept Blumar ine Boadicea the Victorious Bob Mackie Bobby Jones Bogner Bois 1920 Bond No 9 Borsalino Bottega Veneta Boucheron Boudicca Bourjois Brecourt Breil Milano Britney Spears Brocard Brooks Brothers Bruno Banani Brut Parfums Prestige Bugatti Burberry Burdin Bvlgari By Kilian Byblos Byredo Cacharel Cadillac Cafe Parfums Calvin Klein Canali Carita Carla Fracci Carlo Corinto Carner Barcelona Carolina Herrera Caron Carrera Carthusia Cartier Carven Castelbajac Cathy Guetta Celine Celine Dion Cereus Cerruti Cesare Paciotti Chambor Chanel Chantal Thomass Charriol Chateau de Versailles Chaumet Chevignon Chloe Chopard Christian Audigier Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Christina Aguilera Cigar Cindy Crawford Cla rins Clayeux Clean Clinique Clive Christian Coach Collistar Comme des Garcons Comptoir Sud Pacifique CoSTUME NATIONAL Coty Courreges Courvoisier Cognac Creed Cuba-Paris Custo Barcelona Czech & Speake D "Orsay Dana Danielle Steel Darphin David & Victoria Beckham David Yurman Davidoff Dear Rose Decleor Delarom Demeter Fragrance Diadema Exclusif Diana Vreeland Diesel Diptyque Disney Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dorin DSH Perfumes DSQUARED² Ducati E. Coudray Eden Park Eight & Bob Eisenberg Elie Saab Elizabeth Arden Elizabeth Taylor Ella Mikao Ellen Tracy Elysees Fashion Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emmanuel Levain Enrique Iglesias Eon Productions Ermenegildo Zegna Erox Escada Escentric Molecules Esprit Esprit de Versailles Esteban Estee Lauder Etat Libre d "Orange Etienne Aigner Etro Eutopie Eva Longoria Evaflor Evody Parfums Ex Floribus Vinis Ex Nihilo Exte Fabi Faconnable FCUK Fendi Ferrari Fifty Cent Floris Fragonard Fragrance Kitchen Francesco Smalto Franck Boclet Franck Muller Franck Olivier Frapin Frederic Malle G&L G. Nejman Gabriela Sabatini Gant Gattinoni Gendarme Geoffrey Beene Gparlys Gianfranco Ferre Gianmarco Venturi Gilles Cantuel Giorgio Armani Giorgio beegio girgio b. Erly Hills Givenchy Gloria-Vanderbilt Gres Greta Mastroiani Gritti Gucci Guess Guess Guy Laroche Halle Berry Hallowen Halston Haarajuku Harajuku Harajuku Harajuku Haure y Hayari Parfums Helena Rubinstein Helmut Lang Henrik Vibskov Hermes Herr von Eden Herve Gambs Paris Hilde Soliani Hiroko Koshino Histoires de Parfums Houbigant House Of Sillage Hugh Parsons Hugo Boss Humiecki & Graef Hummer Hussein Chalayan Iceberg Il Profvmo Illuminum Ines de la Fressange Initio Parfums Prives In Style Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Derroisne Isabella Rossellini Issey Miyake Izod Jacomo Jacques Bogart Jacques Fath Jacques Saint Pres Jaguar Jardins D'Ecrivains Jasper Conran Jean Couturier Jean Desprez Jean Luc Amsler Jean Patou Jean Paul Gaultier Jean Reno Jean-Louis Scherrer Jeanne Arthes Jennifer Lopez Jessica McClintock Jessica Simpson Jesus Del Pozo Jette Joop Jil Sander Jimmy Choo Jivago Jo Malone John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Joop! Joseph Judith Leiber Juicy Couture Juliette Has A Gun Justin Bieber Kaloo Kanebo Kanon Karl Lagerfeld Kathy Hilton Katy Perry Keiko Mecheri Kenneth Cole Kenzo Kerastase Khaltat Khloe and Lamar Kiehl's Kim Kardashian Kimora Lee Simmons Kinski Kiton Kokeshi Kookai Korloff Paris Koto Parfums Krizia Kusado Kylie Minogue La Maison de la Vanille La Perla La Prairie Lacoste Lady Gaga Lalique Lancaster Lancetti Lancome Lanvin Laura Biagiotti Laura Tonatto Le Galion Le Labo Le Parfum d'Interdits Le Parfumeur Le Prince Jardinier Leonard Les Contes Les Parfums de Rosine Linari Lise Watier Liu Jo Liz Claiborne LM Parfums Lobogal Loewe Lolita Lempicka Lomani Lorelyane Lorenzo Villoresi Lostmarch Louis Feraud LR Lubin Luciano Soprani Lui Niche Lulu Castagnette L`Occitane en Provence L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Oreal M.Micallef Madonna Madonna Nudes 1979 Maison Francis Kurkdjian Maison Martin Margiela Majda Bekkali Sculptures Olf actives Mancera Mandarina Duck Mango Marbert Marc de la Morandiere Marc Ecko Marc Jacobs Marc Joseph Marc O "Polo Marc Rosen Maria Sharapova Mariah Carey MariaLux Mariella Burani Marina Marinof Mark Birley Mark Buxton Marni Marquise Letellier Masaki Matsushima Matthew Williamson Mauboussin Maurer & Wirtz Max Azria Max Deville Max Mara Mazzolari MDCI Parfums Memento Italian Olfactive Landscapes Memo Menard Mendittorosa Mercedes-Benz Mexx Michael Jordan Michael Kors Michel Germain Michel Klein Mila Schön Miller Harris Min New York Missoni Miu Miu Mizensir Molinard Molton Brown Molyneux Mona di Orio Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia Montale MontBlanc Moresque Morgan Morris Moschino Music de Parfum Mustang Myrurgia NafNaf Nanette Lepore Naomi Campbell Narciso Rodriguez Naso Di Raza Nasomatto Nautica Nautilus Nazareno Gabrielli Nejma Neotantric New Yorker Nez a Nez Nicki Minaj Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nicole Richie Nikos Parfums Nina Ricci Nnikoff Nobile 1942 Noran parfums Nouveau Paris Nuroma O.J. Perrin Odin Odori OKKI Oksana Robski Olfactive Studio Olivier Durbano One Direction One of Those Oriflame Orlane Ormonde Jayne Oros Orto Parisi Oscar de la Renta Paco Rabanne Pacoma Pal Zileri Paloma Picasso Pamela Anderson Panama 1924 Panouge Parfum Sur Mesure Parfumerie Generale Parfums BDK Paris Parfums Berdoues Parfums Corolle Parfums de Marly Parfums du Château de Versailles Parfums Elite Parfums Genty Paris Hilton Parlux Patrizia Pepe Paul Smith Payard Pedro Del Hierro Penhaligon`s Perris Monte Carlo Perry Ellis Phaedon Pharrell Williams Philosophy Pierre Balmain Pierre Cardin Pineider Pitbull Playboy Poiray Pola Police Popy Moreni Porsche Design Prada Precious Liquid Prescriptives Prince Princesse Marina de Bourbon Profumi del Forte Profumum Roma Prudence Paris Puma Pupa Puredistance Queen B Queen Latifah Quiksilver Ralph Lauren Ramon Bejar Ramon Molvizar Ramon Monegal Rampage Rance 1795 Rasasi Reem Acra Reminiscence Remy Latour Renato Balestra Rene Solange Renegades Repetto Replay Revillon Revlon Ri fat Ozbek Roads Robert Beaulieu Robert Piguet Roberto Cavalli Roberto Verino Roccobarocco Rochas Rodier Roger & Gallet Roja Dove Romea D`Ameor Romeo Gigli Rouge Bunny Rouge Royal Copenhagen s. 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Dupont S4P Sahlini Parfums Salvador Dali Salvatore Ferragamo Sarah Jessica Parker Sarahs Creations Scent Bar Schwarzkopf&Henkel Sean John Sense of Space Creations Sephora Serge Lutens Sergio Nero Sergio Tacchini Shaik Shakira Shiseido Sigilli Simone Cosac Profumi Sisley Six Scents Slatkin Slava Zaitsev Sonia Rykiel SoOud Sospiro Stefa no Ricci Stella Cadente Stella McCartney Sterling Parfums Steve McQueen Strellson Strenesse Succes de Paris Susanne Lang Swarovski Sweet Years Swiss Arabian Tan Giudicelli Tann Rokka Tauer Perfumes Taylor Swift Ted Lapidus Teeb Al Ghawali Teo Cabanel Terry de Gunzburg The Beautiful Mind Series The Different Company The Gate Fragrances The House Of Oud The Party The Vagabond Prince Theo Fennell Thierry Mugler Tiffany Tipton Charles Tiziana Terenzi Tom Ford Tom Tailor Tomb Raider Tommy Bahama Tommy Hilfiger Tonino Lamborghini Torand Torrente Tous Trish McEvoy True Religion Trussardi Ulric de Varens Undergreen Usher Valentino Van Cleef & Arpels Van Gils Vera Wang Vero Profumo Versace Vertus Victor & Rolf Victoria "s Secret Victorinox Swiss Army Victorio & Lucchino Vilhelm Parfumerie Vince Camuto Vivienne Westwood Wallpaper STEIDL Washington Tremlett Wella WIDIAN Women" Secret Worth Xerjoff XOXO Yllozure Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent Zadig & Voltaire Zarkoperfume Zirh

Guerlain

History of the perfume house Guerlain (Guerlain)

Guerlain (Guerlain) is a legendary French perfume house that has been in existence for 175 years, since 1828. Up until 1994 the company remained within the family. Since 1994 The house became owned by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy.

Its founder was Pierre-Francois Pascal Guerlain, who studied chemistry in England. Returning home, Guerlain began with a modest pharmacy, in the basement of which he mixed fragrances. At first, there were very few clients, but among them were celebrities, for example, Napoleon and Balzac. Eau de Cologne Impériale cologne was created for Napoleon's wedding.

Thanks to celebrities, from the very beginning, a course was taken to create perfumes for high society, to the use of rare, original ingredients, such as vanilla and ylang-ylang, came from their own plantation in the Comoros. This paid off, and over time, the company became the official supplier of perfumes to a number of European royal courts, for example, perfumes were created for both Queen Victoria and Isabella II of Spain.

After the death of Pierre François Guerlain in 1864, the House was inherited by his sons Aimé and Gabriel Guerlain. Aimé is taking the family business to the next level, releasing successful fragrances one after another, while Gabriel is managing. In the field of perfume science, Aimé Guerlain made the following achievements:

He created the perfume pyramid by decomposing the fragrance composition into three elements - the top note, the heart note and the base note or plume.

He combined natural and synthetic ingredients in perfumery, such as coumarin.

He created the first unisex perfume - Jicky (1889). Coumarin was included in its composition, and for this reason, many consider Jicky the first "modern" perfume.

Perfumery principles of the House of Guerlain.

1 - perfume compositions are not pretentious, "fancy": there are few components and they do not obscure each other, do not hide. So, in the perfume dedicated to Catherine Deneuve " Nahema» twelve components in total.

2- a clear preference for natural ingredients, the proportion of artificial should not exceed 20%.

3 - the design of bottles is created according to the principle "for perfume, a bottle is the same as a dress for a woman."

4 - the compositions of this House are well recognizable by the signature chord of plume notes created by Aimé Guerlain, the “gerlinade”, which includes rose, tonka bean and vanilla. This is a kind of "fragrant signature" of the Guerlains in perfume.

Jacques Guerlain, Aimé's nephew, created in 1925. the famous Shalimar perfume, one of the most famous and beloved women's perfumes of all time.

The grandson of Jacques Guerlain, Jean-Paul Guerlain, eventually replaced his grandfather as chief perfumer and created in 1959. perfume Vetiver. Jean-Paul's famous perfumes include Habit Rouge, Chamade, Eau De Guerlain and Nahema. Jean-Paul Guerlain retired in 2002 and was replaced by Thierry Wasser.

Unfortunately, with the transfer of the House to other hands, the rhythm of creating perfumes has changed. Previously, there was no rush, each new product was prepared for several years. Now, only in 1999. nine fragrances entered the market, most of which are the so-called "limited edition", that is, perfumes originally designed for momentary demand, and not for eternity.

The address of the main office of the House is Paris, Champs Elysees 68, where today there is not only a store, but also a museum.

According to some experts, the House created on this moment 206 perfumes, the earliest in 1860 and the latest in 2013.

Aromas of the perfume house Guerlain can be bought in our online store of perfumes and fragrances at the best prices!

(Russian Gerlen) - French perfume house, founded in 1828 by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain (Fr. Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain). It is one of the oldest operating perfume houses. Today, Guerlain operates a network of 23 worldwide, continuing the tradition of personalized customer service that has kept the company at the forefront of the fragrance business.

Guerlain produces perfumes, decorative cosmetics and skin care products. During its almost two hundred years of history, the perfume house has created more than 700 fragrances, 25 of which are still in production today.

Founder of the dynasty and personal perfumer of the Emperor

Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain was born in 1798 in the French city of Abbeville. Leaving home early due to the harsh treatment of his artisan father, he traveled to London where he was educated in chemistry. Soon Guerlain returned to France and went to Paris, where he opened his own shop on Rue Rivoli. At first, he sold exclusive goods brought from England, thus attracting wealthy customers.

Even though eighteenth-century chemistry bore little resemblance to the exact science we study today, Guerlain had enough basic knowledge to find and use only the best quality ingredients for his products. Very soon Guerlain's catalog was full of creams, lotions, ointments and oils with fragrant formulations created by Pierre-Francois-Pascal.

The store allowed Guerlain to learn more about his customers and understand exactly what products they lack. He developed an individual approach to each client, which later became the hallmark of Guerlain, as well as the creation of individual fragrances to order. Guerlain soon opened a studio on the Place de l'Etoile, where he began to create his own products.

In 1840, Guerlain moved with his sons to the fashionable rue de la Paix, where the perfumer found new clients. The first famous customer of Guerlain was the French writer Honore de Balzac, a little later - the Queen of Belgium and the Prince of Wales. In the same year, he released the first solid blush, packaged in porcelain cases, and opened his own perfume factory in the Paris suburb of Colombes. By the middle of the nineteenth century, Guerlain had become not only the most fashionable, but also the highest paid perfumer in Paris.

In 1853, in honor of the wedding of Napoleon III and the Spanish princess Eugenie, Guerlain decided to create a unique fragrance for the newlyweds - Impériale cologne (“Imperial”), which he poured into crystal bottles decorated with gilded bees - the symbol of the House of Bonaparte. Eugene and Napoleon were delighted with the gift, and Guerlain was appointed the emperor's official perfumer. The perfume, consisting of several components, became a real sensation and is produced to this day, still enjoying popularity, and the golden bee has become the emblem of the perfume house.

After that, Queen Victoria, Isabella of Spain, Romanian and Austrian monarchs approached the perfumer with orders. A personal order was also received from the imperial court of the Romanov family, for whom the perfumer created the fragrances Cour Moscovite (“Moscow Court”) and L’eau de Cologne Imperial Russe (“Russian Imperial”).

In 1870, the Camphora moisturizing cream appears, which is still sold today under the name Crème Camphréa, as well as the first lipstick in a wax stick.

Three generations of perfumers from the Guerlain family

In 1864, Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain died, and the perfume business was taken over by his sons, the younger Gabriel (French Gabriel Guerlain) and the elder Aimé (French Aimé Guerlain). The brothers immediately divided responsibilities between themselves - Gabriel took over the management of the company, and Aimé took up the creation of fragrances. In 1884 he introduced the fragrance Fleur d'Italie, in 1885 Skine, and in 1887 the fragrance Rococo.

In 1889, Aimé Guerlain created the sensational fragrance Jicky, named after his nephew Jacques, son of Gabriel. Jicky was the first fragrance to include synthetic ingredients such as vanillin, coumarin and linalool, combined with natural lavender, bergamot and mink oil. Thanks to this composition, the perfume turned out to be persistent and original, suitable for both men and women. The bottle in which the fragrance was sold was closed with a cork resembling a champagne cork. The Jicky is still in production today.

Aimé continued his work and created Excellence in 1890, Belle-France in 1892, and Cipricime in 1894.

In 1910, after the death of Aimé, the perfume business passed to the representatives of the next generation - Jacques and Pierre (fr. Jacques and Pierre Guerlain). The brothers also divided responsibilities between themselves: Pierre took up the development of the company, and Jacques - the creation of fragrances. Shalimar perfume became his outstanding creation in 1925. At that time, fashion for everything oriental dominated in Europe, including clothes, interiors and cuisine, and the new fragrance, inspired by an ancient oriental legend, began to be a success. The legend about the tragic love story of the Indian ruler Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal says that, dying in her husband's arms, Mumtaz asked her husband to build her a beautiful tomb, and Shah Jahan, who turned gray in one day, fulfilled the promise. He ordered the construction of the Taj Mahal - one of the wonders of the world. Shalimar perfumes are produced today, and the name translates as "Gardens of Love", which were laid out by the Shah around the palace.

In 1929, Jacques Guerlain creates the fragrance Liu. Its black crystal bottle was inspired by a Chinese tea box. In the 1930s, Guerlain launched the first sun protection products to celebrate the advent of paid holidays: an oil for sun protection and a day cream to protect against sun and freckles. In 1933, the fragrance Vol de Nuit (after the story "Night Flight") appeared, dedicated to the French writer Antoine de Saint-Exupery.

Jacques has developed his own approach not only to the creation of fragrances, but also to packaging design. The new fragrance has become a whole concept, including the design of the bottle, brand name and packaging. Since that time, Guerlain began to cooperate with another famous French manufacturer - Baccarat crystal, which in 1904 released a crystal bottle for perfume Champs-Elysées ("Champs Elysees").

From a marketing standpoint, this new approach to packaging marked a turning point in the history of the perfume business, as perfume manufacturers realized how important quality packaging can be in perfume selection. The creation of fragrances has become not only an art, but also one of the important branches of the French industry. By the beginning of the 20th century, French perfumery had become one of the main export products, and the Guerlain Perfume House had more than two thousand employees.

During World War II, the Guerlain factory was destroyed by bombing and production was stopped. In 1947 a new factory was opened in Colombes and production resumed.

In 1950, the perfume house creates the first L'Emulsion d'Ambroisie skin serum, which it recommends applying before using a day cream to keep the skin soft and improve its structure. In 1955, Jacques created his last perfume, Ode, which also involved his youngest grandson, Jean-Paul.

“Only the smell remains on the naked female body. And in the dark, he is able to turn even an ugly girl into a real beauty.

Jean-Paul (fr. Jean-Paul Guerlain) from the age of 15 studied with his grandfather Jacques Guerlain the intricacies of perfumery. In 1955, in France, severe frosts destroyed all narcissus bulbs. Jacques suggested that his grandson recreate the smell of narcissus himself, with which Jean-Paul successfully coped and became the heir to the perfume house. He personally found suppliers and negotiated with them himself.

In 1959, he launched his first masculine fragrance, Vetiver, which featured tobacco, tree moss, leather, Indian root, and vetiver. Often when creating fragrances, Jean-Paul was inspired by female images. For his first wife in 1962, he created the fragrance Chant d’Aromes (“Song of the Aroma”), and in 1969 another oriental fragrance Chamade (“Heartbeat”) was released, which Jean-Paul was inspired by the novel of the same name by Francoise Sagan. The company gradually expanded and opened stores in major cities around the world.

In 1965, Jean-Paul creates his second masculine fragrance Habit Rouge (named after the riders' red jackets) in honor of one of his main hobbies - horseback riding. In 1975, a line of skin care products Parure (“Decoration”) appears, and in 1980 a line of anti-aging cosmetics Issima.

In 1983, Jardins de Bagatelle (Gardens of Fun) was created, and in 1985, Derby. In 1984, a new line for tanned skin, Terracotta, was released, which is currently one of the brand's bestsellers.

In 1987, Guerlain created the innovative Météorites (“Meteorites”) powder in the form of small multi-colored balls - white for brightening, green for reducing redness, and purple, pink and pearlescent for radiance and brilliance.

In 1989, the Samsara fragrance comes out, which means “wheel of life” in Sanskrit. Its red bottle was created by the Italian sculptor Robert Granai and replicates the silhouette of a Khmer dancer exhibited at the Musée Guimet in Paris.

The 1990s saw the introduction of three legendary skincare products: Midnight Secret to fight signs of fatigue, Midnight Star to brighten skin, and Sérum SOS to treat tired skin.

Since 1994, the exclusive right to use the Guerlain brand has been owned by the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy Corporation, which is the world leader in the luxury goods segment. Led by Bernard Arnault, the corporation acquired a controlling stake in the hitherto independent family perfume business. Jean-Paul Guerlain continued to create fragrances for another eight years in a team of young professionals.

In 2002, at the age of 65, Guerlain announced his retirement and released the book Les Routes de mes parfums ("The Routes of My Perfumes"). In 2010, Jean-Paul's next book, Parfums d'Amour (Fragrances of Love), was published, in which he described his travels in exotic countries and talked about his favorite women and the fragrances they inspired him to. The book is accompanied by a small bottle of Spiritueuse Double Vanille.

In 1998, on the occasion of the 170th anniversary of the House of Guerlain, Guerlinade was released in a limited edition (“Guerlinade”, after the name of the signature accord that was used in all fragrances).

In 1998, limited collections were released in honor of various events: Le Muguet eau de toilette for Lily of the Valley Day (May 5), Terracotta for the beginning of the summer season, Belle Epoque for the 150th anniversary of Harrod's in London, Cherry Blossom for the cherry blossom festival in Japan and Philtre d'Amour ("Love Potion") for Valentine's Day. In 1999, a light series was conceived perfume water– Aqua Allegoria.

History of Guerlain in the 21st century

In 2003, Maurice Roucel creates L'Instant ("Instant"). In 2006, a masculine version of the fragrance appears, composed by Beatrice Pique in collaboration with Sylvain Delacourt. At the same time, the Orchidée Impériale (Imperial Orchid) skin care line and the Insolence (Insolence) perfume are released. In 2007, L’Instant Magic (“Magic Moment”) and the Success Future line of aging skin care products appear. In 2008, the Guerlain Homme fragrance was released. Since that year, Thierry Wasser has been the official perfumer of the House.

In 2009, the perfume La Petite Robe Noire () was released, two years later, another version of this fragrance was released in a limited edition, and in 2012 a limited collection of the third version of the perfume was released.

Exhibition "Heritage and Modernity of the House of Guerlain" in Moscow

From February 20 to March 20, 2012, an exhibition dedicated to the history of the legendary perfume house was held on the central alley of GUM. The exhibition featured historical bottles of the 19th-21st centuries from the private collection of the Guerlain family, as well as historical posters. Specialists demonstrated the hand-made technique of designing “boudoirage” bottles, master classes were held together with the exhibition participants on painting bottles, and fragrances could be purchased in a historical imperial bottle with a personal engraving.

In Moscow, the Maison Guerlain branded boutique is located in the TSUM shopping center.