The history of the Guerlain house and the best Guerlain perfumes. The secret romance of bourgeois luxury. History of the Guerlain brand
Story
- Guerlain was founded in 1828 by Pierre François Pascal Guerlain, a Frenchman trained in chemistry in England. At first, this perfume house existed as a drug store, in the cellars of which Guerlain mixed his fragrances. Few, but quite famous people were clients, including, for example, Balzac and Napoleon, for whose wedding cologne was specially created Eau de Cologne Imperiale. He later created scents for Queens Victoria and Isabella II of Spain. Pierre Francois Guerlain died in 1864.
- He was succeeded by his sons Aimé and Gabriel Guerlain. Aimé Guerlain takes the family business to the next level, releasing successful fragrances one after another, while Gabriel handles the management. Aimé Guerlain made the following perfume achievements:
- Decomposition of fragrance into three components - top note, heart note and base note.
- The combination of natural and synthetic ingredients in perfumery.
- Creation of the first unisex fragrance - Guerlain Jicky(1889)
- In 1910 Aimé Guerlain died and the company was inherited by Gabriel's sons Jacques and Pierre. Pierre gets the commercial component, and Jacques takes over the composition of the fragrances. During the existence of the house under the management of Jacques and Pierre, the family business flourishes, internalized and popularized. Guerlain begins to create perfumes for movie and pop stars, and also begins selling its products around the world.
- Jacques Guerlain died in 1956, and his grandson, Jean-Paul Guerlain, took over as head of the company. Under his leadership, the company turns into a world famous brand.
Guerlain retired from his company in 2002.
Characteristic
Vol de Nuit (1933)
Olga Weinstein describes the main principles in this way: “it is worth dwelling on the perfumery principles of the house of Guerlain.
- Firstly, Guerlain's compositions are never pretentious, "fancy": their components do not "play hide and seek" and do not obscure each other, since there are not many of them. For example, in the perfume "Naema" ("Nahema"), which in 1979 the perfumer dedicated to his favorite actress Catherine Deneuve, there are only twelve components.
- Secondly, a clear preference is given to natural ingredients. Of course, without artificial materials can not be dispensed with, but their share should not exceed 20%. The Guerlains have always strictly monitored the quality of raw materials, and now Jean-Paul annually inspects the plantations of odorous plants and factories for the production of essential oils.
- Thirdly, great importance is attached to the design of the bottles: "A bottle is to a fragrance what a dress is to a woman".
- Finally, and most importantly, Guerlain compositions are highly recognizable, as they almost always use a signature chord called "guerlinade". Its exact composition is, of course, kept secret, but it is known that it includes tonka beans, rose and vanilla.
Fragrances
The first men's fragrance was the Imperial cologne, created specifically for Napoleon III Bonaparte. The first Guerlain fragrance for women is called "The Soul of Flowers" - it was created by Pascal Guerlain in 1829 for his wife. Jicky was the world's first unisex fragrance and one of the first to use synthetics.
In total, since 1828, the house has created more than 300 fragrances.
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1828 - 1956 Pierre Guerlain Aimé Guerlain |
Jacques Guerlain
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Jean-Paul Guerlain |
Guerlain Series:
- Aqua Allegoria: Herba Fresca, Pamplelune, Rosa Magnifica, Lavande Velours and Ylang & Vanille (all 1999); Anisia Bella (2004), Mentafollia (2004), Orange Magnifica and Pivoine Magnifica (2005), Tutti Kiwi (2006), Grosellina (2006), Angelique Lilas & Mandarine Basilic (2007), Figue Iris & Laurier Reglisse (2008), Tiare -Mimosa and Cherry Blossom (2009), Flora Nymphea (2010), Bouquet Numero 1 (2010).
- Les Parisiennes(2005) - a series of re-released fragrances: Kadine, Sous Le Vent, Djedi, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Voilette de Madame, Vega, Mayotte (original Mahora), Liu, Purple Fantasy, Attrape-Coeur (original Guet Apens), Derby, Ode, Vetiver Pour Elle, Philtre d'Amour, Chamade Pour Homme, Candide Effluve, L'Ame d'un Heros (original Coriolan).
- L'Art et la Matiere: Cuir Beluga, Rose Barbare and Angelique Noire, Bois d'Armenie (2006), Iris Ganache (2007), Cruel Gardenia (2008), Tonka Imperiale (2010).
In culture
1909 bottle design
For Russian culture, these French perfumes have long been considered synonymous with luxury.
- N. E. Heinze (1898):
“There was both the Petersburg “light” and the “half-light”, the latter trying to outshine the first with artificial radiance - the radiance of jewels and completely achieving this. Modest "secular roses", delicate flowers with a delicate aroma of purity and innocence, timidly huddled aside in front of the magnificent "camellias", which received their stupefying aroma from the modern Parisian alchemist Guerlain, who found a way to restore youth and beauty and by this means to make gold for himself.
- The brand and fragrance of Mitsouko are listed by Gella at the Woland Variety show ("The Master and Margarita"):
The girl, albeit hoarsely, sweetly sang, burping, something incomprehensible, but, judging by the women's faces in the stalls, very seductive:
- Guerlain, Chanel number five, mitsuko, narcissus noir, evening gowns, cocktail dresses…
- Georgy Ivanov. "Third Rome" (1929):
“The air of Astoria, warmed by heaters, smelled somehow languid. It was a delicate mixture, where there was a little of everything: N. Guerlain, and the spirit of counterintelligence, and Egyptian tobacco, and blood ... "
- Valentin Kataev in the book "My Diamond Crown" describes:
“the highest type of woman is a celestial: a beauty, mostly blonde with diamonds in her ears, delicate as a pink petal, in a long evening dress with a bare back, slender, long-legged, in silver shoes, made up, powdered, striking with the length of curled eyelashes, behind the bars of which narcotic eyes shine, fragrant with the spirits of Koti, even Guerlain - on a narrow hand with raspberry marigolds a gold watch sprinkled with diamonds, in a purse a powder box with a mirror and a powder puff. Product
The story begins when Pierre-Francois Guerlain was born, who, after studying to be a chemist, opened his own pharmacy business. It was this small shop that produced the first bottles of Guerlain perfumes with the poetic name "Soul of Flowers". Buyers were found quickly, however, it brought great fame, which was specially created for Napoleon III.
It took a lot of time to prepare the Imperial cologne, but the result demanded it. Pascal presented a crystal bottle, on which a bee flaunted in gilded relief, to the emperor. And Napoleon's delight knew no bounds. This day became very significant for Pascal: he is appointed the official imperial perfumer, and high-ranking persons do not stop placing orders with him. To keep the memory of his career soaring alive, Guerlain decides to keep the engraving that worked so well and makes it his logo. Honeycombs are still used today in Guerlain bottles.
In 1864, Pierre dies, and his sons, Gabriel and Emme, take up his business. Gabriel has a commercial flair and takes over. And the romantic guy Aime takes up perfumery.
In 1889, Aimé launches a sensational fragrance: Jicky is dedicated to his first love, the first perfume that has a top, middle and base notes of a fragrance. These perfumes began to use synthetic along with natural ingredients. Jicky was a fragrance that suited both men and women. And the name Jicky is the name of a young lady who will forever remain in the heart of Aime Guerlain.
In 1910, Aime Guerlain leaves the world, and his nephews, Jacques and Pierre, continue his work. History likes to repeat itself: Pierre is in business, and Jacques is. Shalimar's masterpiece, created by Jacques Guerlain, is still popular today. In 1955, Jean Paul's grandson helps his grandfather in the creation of the Ode fragrance. "Ode" - the first creation of Jean Paul and, sadly, the last creation of Jacques - in 1956 he dies. Jean Paul was trained by his grandfather in perfumery craft from the age of 15, and although he had no education and was absent-minded, his grandfather left the business to him: it was Jean who accurately managed to convey the smell of daffodils, getting it from an artificial element.
Jean Paul did not let his grandfather down. Working hard, after four years, Jean releases a popular fragrance for men - Guerlain - Vetiver. The guy works day and night, negotiating with suppliers of raw materials, bringing perfection to chemical formulations, experimenting with smells.
Jean Paul's main source of inspiration was women. He dedicated the perfume Guerlain Chant d'Aromes to his first wife, and his second wife received the Samsara fragrance. A film by Françoise Sagan was released, and the Chamade fragrance was released especially for the main character Catherine Deneuve. "Only the smell can turn a terrible woman into a beauty," said Jean-Paul. Jean was well aware that perfumery and a kind of relatives.
The successful perfume company Guerlain has achieved worldwide fame: a huge number of hits for men and women were created by a brilliant perfumer. However, progress does not stand still, and Guerlain perfumery is undergoing adjustments. Synthetic components are replacing natural ones at an astonishing rate, and many fashion houses are taking advantage of this and reducing costs by . It is not at all easy to compete with perfumes that are three times cheaper, but Jean Paul refused to switch to synthetic materials. Finally disappointed, Jean Guerlain sells his business to LVMH, a fairly well-known corporation.
And for the first time in almost 200 years, fragrances are completely modified, replacing the natural component with a synthetic one. The smells seem to be the same, they even acquired a special durability and brightness, but the soul of the great Guerlain dynasty is no longer embedded in these fragrances.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Guerlain (Guerlain, Guerlain)- one of the oldest perfume houses in the world, founded in 1828 by Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain.
Since 1994, the exclusive right to use the Guerlain brand has been owned by the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy Corporation.
Story
- Guerlain was founded in 1828 by Pierre François Pascal Guerlain, a Frenchman trained in chemistry in England. At first, this perfume house existed as a drug store, in the cellars of which Guerlain mixed his fragrances. Clients were few, but quite famous people, including, for example, Balzac and Napoleon III, for whose wedding cologne was specially created Eau de Cologne Imperiale. He later created scents for Queens Victoria and Isabella II of Spain. Pierre Francois Guerlain died in 1864.
- The firm was inherited by his sons Aimé and Gabriel Guerlain. Aimé Guerlain takes the family business to the next level, releasing successful fragrances one after another, while Gabriel handles the management. Aimé Guerlain made the following perfume achievements:
- Decomposition of fragrance into three components - top note, heart note and base note.
- The combination of natural and synthetic ingredients in perfumery.
- Creation of the first unisex fragrance - Guerlain Jicky(1889)
Guerlain retired from his company in 2002.
Characteristic
Olga Weinstein describes the main principles in this way: “it is worth dwelling on the perfumery principles of the house of Guerlain.
- Firstly, Guerlain's compositions are never pretentious, "fancy": their components do not "play hide and seek" and do not obscure each other, since there are not many of them. For example, in the perfume "Naema" ("Nahema"), which in 1979 the perfumer dedicated to his favorite actress Catherine Deneuve, there are only twelve components.
- Secondly, a clear preference is given to natural ingredients. Of course, one cannot do without artificial materials, but their share should not exceed 20%. The Guerlains have always strictly monitored the quality of raw materials, and now Jean-Paul annually inspects the plantations of odorous plants and factories for the production of essential oils.
- Thirdly, great importance is attached to the design of the bottles: "A bottle is to a fragrance what a dress is to a woman".
- Finally, and most importantly, Guerlain compositions are highly recognizable, as they almost always use a signature chord called "guerlinade". Its exact composition is, of course, kept secret, but it is known that it includes tonka beans, rose and vanilla.
Fragrances
The first men's fragrance was the Imperial cologne, created specifically for Napoleon III Bonaparte. The first Guerlain fragrance for women is called "The Soul of Flowers" - it was created by Pascal Guerlain in 1829 for his wife. Jicky was the world's first unisex fragrance and one of the first to use synthetics.
In total, since 1828, the house has created more than 300 fragrances.
| 1828 - 1956 | Jacques Guerlain | Jean-Paul Guerlain | |
|---|---|---|---|
Pierre Guerlain
 Aimé Guerlain
 |
 |
 Jean-Paul Guerlain for LVMH; other perfumers
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| LVMH | LVMH | ||
2003
Kadine, Sous Le Vent, Djedi, Mouchoir de Monsieur,
|
2009
2010
|
2014
|
In culture
For Russian culture, these French perfumes have long been considered synonymous with luxury.
- N. E. Heinze (1898):
“There was both the Petersburg “light” and the “half-light”, the latter trying to outshine the first with artificial radiance - the radiance of jewels and completely achieving this. Modest "secular roses", delicate flowers with a delicate aroma of purity and innocence, timidly huddled aside in front of the lush "camellias", which received their stupefying aroma from the modern Parisian alchemist Guerlain, who found a way to restore youth and beauty and by this means to make gold for himself.
- Anatoly Mariengof. "Cynics" (1928):
“I touched her fingers.
- ... after our "socialist" coup, I came to the conclusion that the Russian people are not completely devoid of humor.
Olga went up to a rounded mirror in a gilded lace frame.
What do you think Vladimir...
She looked into the mirror.
- ... can it happen that in Moscow it will not be possible to get French lip paint?
She took a golden Guerlain pencil from the table.
- How then to live?
- The brand and fragrance of Mitsouko are listed by Gella at the Woland Variety show (“The Master and Margarita”, 1929-1940):
The girl, albeit hoarsely, sweetly sang, burping, something incomprehensible, but, judging by the women's faces in the stalls, very seductive:- Guerlain, Chanel number five, mitsuko, narcissus noir, evening gowns, cocktail dresses…
- Georgy Ivanov. "Third Rome" (1929):
“The air of Astoria, warmed by heaters, smelled somehow languid. It was a delicate mixture, where there was a little bit of everything: N. Guerlain, and the spirit of counterintelligence, and Egyptian tobacco, and blood ... "
- Valentin Kataev in the book "My Diamond Crown" (1975-1977) describes the era of the NEP:
“the highest type of woman is a celestial: a beauty, mostly blonde with diamonds in her ears, delicate as a pink petal, in a long evening dress with a bare back, slender, long-legged, in silver shoes, made up, powdered, striking with the length of curled eyelashes, behind the bars of which narcotic eyes shine, fragrant with the spirits of Koti, even Guerlain - on a narrow hand with raspberry marigolds a gold watch sprinkled with diamonds, in a purse a powder box with a mirror and a powder puff. NEP product. It is inviolable and inaccessible to our brother. You can see her at the Metropol in the evening."
... 180 cm, thin-boned, long-legged, narrow-faced, with a chestnut mane and brown almond-shaped eyes, with a decent Russian on fantastically shaped lips and with a dazzling smile in the same place, in stunning tissue paper density, suede and matching stockings, hypnotically fragrant with strangers spirits—the picture was undeniably the most elegant female creature whose crazy foot has ever set foot in our circle. It was made from what moistens the dreams of a married man. Also, a Venetian.
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Notes
An excerpt characterizing Guerlain
Let's imagine two people who went out to a duel with swords according to all the rules of fencing art: fencing went on for quite a long time; suddenly one of the opponents, feeling wounded - realizing that this was not a joke, but about his life, threw down his sword and, taking the first club that came across, began to toss with it. But let us imagine that the enemy, having so wisely used the best and simplest means to achieve the goal, at the same time inspired by the traditions of chivalry, would want to hide the essence of the matter and would insist that he, according to all the rules of art, won with swords. One can imagine what confusion and obscurity would result from such a description of the duel that took place.The fencer who demanded the fight according to the rules of the art was the French; his opponent, who dropped his sword and raised his club, were Russians; people who try to explain everything according to the rules of fencing are historians who wrote about this event.
Since the fire of Smolensk, a war has begun that does not fit under any previous legends of wars. The burning of cities and villages, the retreat after battles, the blow of Borodin and the retreat again, the abandonment and fire of Moscow, the catching of marauders, the capture of transports, the guerrilla war - all these were deviations from the rules.
Napoleon felt this, and from the very time when he stopped in Moscow in the correct posture of a swordsman and saw a cudgel raised above him instead of the enemy’s sword, he did not stop complaining to Kutuzov and Emperor Alexander that the war was being waged contrary to all rules (as if there were what are the rules for killing people). Despite the complaints of the French about non-compliance with the rules, despite the fact that for some reason it seemed to the Russians, people of the highest position, to be ashamed to fight with a club, but they wanted to take the position en quarte or en tierce [fourth, third] according to all the rules, to make a skillful fall into prime [first], etc., - the cudgel of the people's war rose with all its formidable and majestic strength and, without asking anyone's tastes and rules, with stupid simplicity, but with expediency, without analyzing anything, rose, fell and nailed the French to those until the whole invasion has perished.
And it is good for the people who, not like the French in 1813, saluting according to all the rules of art and turning the sword over with the hilt, gracefully and courteously hand it over to the generous winner, but good for the people who, in a moment of trial, without asking about how they acted according to the rules others in similar cases, with simplicity and ease, picks up the first club that comes across and nails it until the feeling of insult and revenge in his soul is replaced by contempt and pity.
One of the most tangible and advantageous deviations from the so-called rules of war is the action of scattered people against people huddled together. This kind of action always manifests itself in a war that takes on a popular character. These actions consist in the fact that, instead of becoming a crowd against a crowd, people disperse separately, attack one by one and immediately flee when they are attacked by large forces, and then attack again when the opportunity presents itself. This was done by the Guerillas in Spain; this was done by the highlanders in the Caucasus; the Russians did it in 1812.
A war of this kind was called guerrilla warfare, and it was believed that by calling it that, its meaning was explained. Meanwhile, this kind of war not only does not fit any rules, but is directly opposed to the well-known and recognized as an infallible tactical rule. This rule says that the attacker must concentrate his troops in order to be stronger than the enemy at the time of the battle.
Guerrilla warfare (always successful, as history shows) is the exact opposite of this rule.
This contradiction arises from the fact that military science accepts the strength of troops as identical with their numbers. Military science says that the more troops, the more power. Les gros bataillons ont toujours raison. [Law is always on the side of large armies.]
In saying this, military science is like that mechanics, which, based on the consideration of forces only in relation to their masses, would say that the forces are equal or not equal to each other, because their masses are equal or not equal.
Force (momentum) is the product of mass and speed.
In military affairs, the strength of an army is also the product of the mass by something like that, by some unknown x.
Military science, seeing in history countless examples of the fact that the mass of troops does not coincide with strength, that small detachments defeat large ones, vaguely recognizes the existence of this unknown factor and tries to find it either in geometric construction, or in armament, or - the most ordinary - in the genius of the generals. But substituting all these multiplier values does not produce results consistent with the historical facts.
And meanwhile, one has only to abandon the established, for the sake of the heroes, false view of the reality of the orders of the highest authorities during the war in order to find this unknown x.
This is the spirit of the army, that is, a greater or lesser desire to fight and expose themselves to the dangers of all the people who make up the army, completely regardless of whether people fight under the command of geniuses or non-geniuses, in three or two lines, with clubs or guns firing thirty once a minute. The people who have the greatest desire to fight will always put themselves in the best conditions for a fight.
The spirit of the army is a multiplier for the mass, which gives the product of force. To determine and express the meaning of the spirit of the army, this unknown multiplier, is the task of science.
This task is possible only when we stop arbitrarily replacing the value of the entire unknown X with the conditions under which force is manifested, such as: the orders of the commander, weapons, etc., taking them as the value of a multiplier, and recognize this unknown in all its wholeness, that is, as a greater or lesser desire to fight and endanger oneself. Then only, expressing the known equations historical facts, from a comparison of the relative value of this unknown one can hope to determine the unknown itself.
Ten people, battalions or divisions, fighting with fifteen people, battalions or divisions, defeated fifteen, that is, they killed and took prisoner all without a trace and themselves lost four; therefore, four were destroyed on one side, and fifteen on the other. Therefore, four was equal to fifteen, and therefore 4a:=15y. Therefore, w: g/==15:4. This equation does not give the value of the unknown, but it does give the relation between two unknowns. And from subsuming various historical units (battles, campaigns, periods of wars) under such equations, series of numbers will be obtained in which laws must exist and can be discovered.
The tactical rule that it is necessary to act in masses during the offensive and separately during the retreat, unconsciously confirms only the truth that the strength of the army depends on its spirit. In order to lead people under the core, more discipline is needed, achieved only by movement in the masses, than in order to fend off attackers. But this rule, in which the spirit of the army is overlooked, constantly turns out to be wrong and especially strikingly contradicts reality where there is a strong rise or fall in the spirit of the army - in all people's wars.
The French, retreating in 1812, although they should have defended themselves separately, tactically huddle together, because the spirit of the army has fallen so that only the mass holds the army together. The Russians, on the contrary, tactically should have attacked en masse, but in reality they are splitting up, because the spirit is raised so that individuals strike without the orders of the French and do not need coercion in order to expose themselves to labor and danger.
The so-called guerrilla war began with the entry of the enemy into Smolensk.
Before the guerrilla war was officially accepted by our government, already thousands of people of the enemy army - backward marauders, foragers - were exterminated by the Cossacks and peasants, who beat these people as unconsciously as dogs unconsciously bite a runaway rabid dog. Denis Davydov, with his Russian intuition, was the first to understand the significance of that terrible club, which, without asking the rules of military art, destroyed the French, and he owns the glory of the first step in legitimizing this method of war.
On August 24, the first partisan detachment of Davydov was established, and after his detachment others began to be established. The further the campaign progressed, the more the number of these detachments increased.
The partisans destroyed the Great Army in parts. They picked up those falling leaves that fell of themselves from a withered tree - the French army, and sometimes shook this tree. In October, while the French fled to Smolensk, there were hundreds of these parties of various sizes and characters. There were parties that adopted all the methods of the army, with infantry, artillery, headquarters, with the comforts of life; there were only Cossack, cavalry; there were small, prefabricated, foot and horse, there were peasants and landlords, unknown to anyone. There was a deacon head of the party, who took several hundred prisoners a month. There was an elder, Vasilisa, who beat hundreds of Frenchmen.
The last days of October were the time of the height of the guerrilla war. That first period of this war, during which the partisans, themselves surprised at their audacity, were afraid at any moment to be caught and surrounded by the French and, without unsaddling and almost dismounting their horses, hid through the forests, waiting for every minute of the chase, has already passed. Now this war had already taken shape, it became clear to everyone what could be done with the French and what could not be done. Now only those commanders of the detachments, who, according to the rules, went away from the French with headquarters, still considered many things impossible. The small partisans, who had long ago begun their work and were closely looking out for the French, considered possible what the leaders of large detachments did not even dare to think about. The Cossacks and the peasants, who climbed between the French, believed that now everything was possible.
On October 22, Denisov, who was one of the partisans, was with his party in the midst of partisan passion. In the morning he and his party were on the move. All day long, through the forests adjoining the main road, he followed a large French transport of cavalry items and Russian prisoners, separated from other troops and under strong cover, as was known from scouts and prisoners, heading for Smolensk. This transport was known not only to Denisov and Dolokhov (also a partisan with a small party), who walked close to Denisov, but also to the heads of large detachments with headquarters: everyone knew about this transport and, as Denisov said, they sharpened their teeth on it. Two of these great detachment commanders - one Pole, the other German - almost at the same time sent an invitation to Denisov to join his detachment in order to attack the transport.
- No, bg "at, I myself have a mustache," said Denisov, after reading these papers, and wrote to the German that, despite the sincere desire that he had to serve under the command of such a valiant and famous general, he must deprive himself of this happiness, because he had already entered under the command of a Pole general, but he wrote the same to the Pole general, notifying him that he had already entered under the command of a German.
Having ordered in this way, Denisov intended, without reporting to the top commanders, together with Dolokhov, to attack and take this transport with his own small forces. The transport went on October 22 from the village of Mikulina to the village of Shamsheva. On the left side of the road from Mikulin to Shamshev there were large forests, in places approaching the road itself, in places moving away from the road by a verst or more. For a whole day through these forests, now going deep into the middle of them, then leaving for the edge, he rode with the party of Denisov, not losing sight of the moving French. In the morning, not far from Mikulin, where the forest came close to the road, Cossacks from Denisov's party captured two French wagons with cavalry saddles that had become muddy and took them into the forest. From then until evening, the party, without attacking, followed the movement of the French. It was necessary, without frightening them, to let them calmly reach Shamshev and then, connecting with Dolokhov, who was supposed to arrive in the evening for a meeting at the guardhouse in the forest (a verst from Shamshev), at dawn fall from both sides like snow on his head and beat and take them all at once.
Behind, two versts from Mikulin, where the forest approached the road itself, six Cossacks were left, who were supposed to report it immediately, as soon as new French columns appeared.
Ahead of Shamshev, in the same way, Dolokhov had to explore the road in order to know at what distance there were still other French troops. During transport, one thousand five hundred people were supposed. Denisov had two hundred men, Dolokhov could have as many. But the superiority of numbers did not stop Denisov. The only thing he still needed to know was what exactly these troops were; and for this purpose Denisov needed to take a tongue (that is, a man from an enemy column). In the morning attack on the wagons, things happened with such haste that the French who were with the wagons were all killed and only the drummer boy was captured alive, who was backward and could not say anything positively about what kind of troops were in the column.
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Guerlain
History of the perfume house Guerlain (Guerlain)
Guerlain (Guerlain) is a legendary French perfume house that has been in existence for 175 years, since 1828. Up until 1994 the company remained within the family. Since 1994 The house became owned by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy.
Its founder was Pierre-Francois Pascal Guerlain, who studied chemistry in England. Returning home, Guerlain began with a modest pharmacy, in the basement of which he mixed fragrances. At first, there were very few clients, but among them were celebrities, for example, Napoleon and Balzac. Eau de Cologne Impériale cologne was created for Napoleon's wedding.
Thanks to celebrities, from the very beginning, a course was taken to create perfumes for high society, to the use of rare, original ingredients, such as vanilla and ylang-ylang, came from their own plantation in the Comoros. This paid off, and over time, the company became the official supplier of perfumes to a number of European royal courts, for example, perfumes were created for both Queen Victoria and Isabella II of Spain.
After the death of Pierre François Guerlain in 1864, the House was inherited by his sons Aimé and Gabriel Guerlain. Aimé is taking the family business to the next level, releasing successful fragrances one after another, while Gabriel is managing. In the field of perfume science, Aimé Guerlain made the following achievements:
He created the perfume pyramid by decomposing the fragrance composition into three elements - the top note, the heart note and the base note or plume.
He combined natural and synthetic ingredients in perfumery, such as coumarin.
He created the first unisex perfume - Jicky (1889). Coumarin was included in its composition, and for this reason, many consider Jicky the first "modern" perfume.
Perfumery principles of the House of Guerlain.
1 - perfume compositions are not pretentious, "fancy": there are few components and they do not obscure each other, do not hide. So, in the perfume dedicated to Catherine Deneuve " Nahema» twelve components in total.
2- a clear preference for natural ingredients, the proportion of artificial should not exceed 20%.
3 - the design of bottles is created according to the principle "for perfume, a bottle is the same as a dress for a woman."
4 - the compositions of this House are well recognizable by the signature chord of plume notes created by Aimé Guerlain, the “gerlinade”, which includes rose, tonka bean and vanilla. This is a kind of "fragrant signature" of the Guerlains in perfume.
Jacques Guerlain, Aimé's nephew, created in 1925. the famous Shalimar perfume, one of the most famous and beloved women's perfumes of all time.
The grandson of Jacques Guerlain, Jean-Paul Guerlain, eventually replaced his grandfather as chief perfumer and created in 1959. perfume Vetiver. Jean-Paul's famous perfumes include Habit Rouge, Chamade, Eau De Guerlain and Nahema. Jean-Paul Guerlain retired in 2002 and was replaced by Thierry Wasser.
Unfortunately, with the transfer of the House to other hands, the rhythm of creating perfumes has changed. Previously, there was no rush, each new product was prepared for several years. Now, only in 1999. nine fragrances entered the market, most of which are the so-called "limited edition", that is, perfumes originally designed for momentary demand, and not for eternity.
The address of the main office of the House is Paris, Champs Elysees 68, where today there is not only a store, but also a museum.
According to some experts, the House has created at the moment 206 perfumes, the earliest in 1860 and the latest in 2013.
Aromas of the perfume house Guerlain can be bought in our online store of perfumes and fragrances at the best prices!
The Guerlain brand was founded in 1828 by Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain, who was trained as a chemist in England. Initially, the perfume brand existed in the form of a pharmacy store, in the basement of which Guerlain prepared his first fragrances.
25 years later, at the wedding of Napoleon 3, Guerlain presented the Spanish princess with Imperial perfume, created specifically in honor of this event. The fragrance was placed in a crystal bottle with gilded reliefs of bees - the symbol of Napoleon's house. The smell of perfume so fascinated the princess that she appointed Guerlain the chief perfumer of the royal court. So the golden bee became the symbol of the House of Guerlain. Since then, great Guerlain fragrances have been created for many famous people - Balzac, Sarah Bernhardt, English and Spanish queens.
After Pierre Francois, his son Aime Guerlain became the main perfumer of the brand. He achieved great success in the development of the family business, releasing one successful perfume after another. It was Aime Guerlain who first decomposed the smell of perfume into three components - top notes, heart notes and base notes. In addition, he was the first to combine natural ingredients and synthetic ingredients in the art of perfumery, and also created the first unisex fragrance Guerlain Jicky (in 1889).
After Aimé, the firm was headed by his two nephews, Jacques and Pierre Guerlain, who were also able to bring worldwide fame and fame to the perfumes of the House, including creating fragrances specifically for pop and movie stars.
Creating compositions is a real art, according to Guerlain Corporation. To create Guerlain fragrances, flowers are used specially grown in Grasse, the capital of perfumery art. Only in Grasse grows jasmine with a uniquely subtle aroma that gives extraordinary appeal to perfumes such as Shalimar from Guerlain. Only a few firms can afford to grow flowers in that region. Most perfume houses have flower fields in Asia where labor is much cheaper. But with the quality of Grasse flowers grown in the east of France, such aromas are difficult to compare.
The collected flowers are immediately sent to the plant, where an extraction is carried out, which lasts six hours. This results in essential oil and concrete, which can be stored for about three years. Small portions of concrete are sent to the laboratory, where they produce a liquid called absolute from it. In every self-respecting perfume brand there is a "nose" - a perfumer who decides whether a fragrance should exist or not. The nose examines the absolute and approves its use in perfumery.
The last hereditary nose-perfumer of the Guerlain brand is Jean-Paul Guerlain, who lost his sight in his early youth. It stores more than 3,000 scents in memory and considers smells to be the most powerful form of perception. What remains of the most beautiful lady when the lights go out? Only her scent and the charm of her voice. In 2002, Jean-Paul Guerlain sold his brand to LVMH, which is the owner of the Guerlain brand to this day. However, Jean-Paul Guerlain continues to create fragrances in collaboration with the brand's now chief perfumer, Thierry Vosser.
Thierry developed his sense of smell while collecting herbs in the Swiss countryside where he was born and raised. Thierry Vosser holds a botanical and vocational certificate and is a graduate of the Givaudan Perfumery School.
The best women's fragrances from Guerlain:
Guerlain Shalimar
Almost the most successful Guerlain perfume for women can be considered Guerlain Shalimar, created by Jacques Guerlain in 1925. The author was inspired by the love story of an Indian Shah and a concubine in the legendary Shalimar Gardens. Aroma Guerlain Shalimar became one of the first perfumes of that time with an oriental character. Shalimar is the very essence of femininity: style, subtlety, temperament and sensuality. The top note is represented by the freshness of flowers and bergamot. Erotic notes of the heart sound with shades of rose, iris, jasmine, opoponax and vanilla, beloved by Jacques Guerlain. The composition is completed with tones of incense and iris.
The success of the Guerlain Shalimar perfume lies in the perfect balance of sensuality, oriental luxury and freshness, this fragrance has everything in moderation. In 1925, Guerlain Shalimar was exhibited at a lavish French fashion show at the Grand Palais and became part of the art of the time. However, the excellent composition of Shalimar is still a wonderful aesthetic achievement. These perfumes have been worn and will be worn, although many modern fragrances will disappear forever. Great perfumes stand outside of time, expressing eternal values.
Guerlain Insolence
Another unforgettable perfume from Guerlain is Insolence, created not so long ago - in 2006, but has already gained worldwide fame. Its feature is an attempt by perfumers to change the usual structure of the fragrance. In Guerlain Insolence, the plume notes are played first and the head notes are played last. Although this fragrance was aimed at young women, it sounds more like a vintage Apres L'Ondee perfume created in 1906, but at the same time, the perfume is great for young ladies and ladies of age.
Perfume Guerlain Insolence, in addition to the aroma of violets, is fraught with the smells of roses, raspberries, iris, orange flowers, musk, tonka beans and sandalwood.
Guerlain Idylle
Thierry Vosser created a bouquet of Guerlain Idylle perfume, radiant and luxurious, embodying the idea of a happy and carefree life - an idyll. He measured every note to get the perfect harmony, to give an incredible and unforgettable feeling through the luxury of the fragrance. In this harmony of chypre and sensuality, notes of jasmine, musk, vanilla, patchouli and almond reign. Thierry Vosser really managed to embody the sensual and romantic feelings of the idyll in the fragrance. Guerlain Idylle is a well-deserved work of art.
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria
The Guerlain Aqua Allegoria perfume line has about 30 fragrances. The very idea of creating the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria series is fragrances, each of which is built around some basic note in order to convey the self-sufficiency of the smells given to us by nature. So, in the fragrances of the series you can hear the smells of jasmine, natural honey, orange flowers, peony, iris, bergamot and many others.
In 2010, the Guerlain brand re-released 5 fragrances from this series. Thus, femininity embodied - Flora Nymphea - became the new fragrance. During a trip to Calabria, where Guerlain buys cedar and bergamot, Thierry Vosser noticed a delicious orange blossom, unusually delicate, which became the basis of the Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphea fragrance.
In the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria series you will find light, delicate, fresh, floral and herbal, fruity fragrances. Honeycombs, depicted on the packaging and bottles, became the symbol of the series.
Also very popular women's compositions from the House of Guerlain were L'instant Magique, Samsara and Champs Elysees.
The best men's fragrances from Guerlain:
Men's fragrances from the Guerlain brand are among the ten most popular in the world. The first perfume for men was the Imperial cologne, designed specifically for Napoleon Bonaparte.
Guerlain Habit Rouge
Guerlain Habit Rouge is a men's fragrance created in 1965. He will appeal to a man capable of various daring acts, filled with the charm of sensuality and sophistication. The notes of citrus and rich vanilla in Habit Rouge are a true genius of contrast. Perfume is enclosed in a classic bottle with engraved bees - a "constellation" of 69 bees is a symbol of Napoleon's empire. Since its inception, the bee bottle has become a hallmark of the Guerlain brand. By personal order, each honeycomb and bee can be painted with gold paint, and the initials of the owner are applied to the bottle.
Opening the cap of the modern version of the fragrance, you will hear the tones of sweet orange, juicy lime and bergamot. In the "heart" chords of patchouli and spices reign. Base notes are amber and vanilla.
Guerlain Homme
This is a fragrance for men, created especially for the 18th anniversary of the House of Guerlain. The main idea of the fragrance lies in the formation of a new look at men's perfumery. Guerlain strives to develop perfume as if from scratch, forgetting about everything that was created by the company before. This is how Guerlain Homme turned out, which became the embodiment of the "animal instincts" characteristic of genuine men.
This perfume starts with hints of mojito and sweet lime, rum, mint and rhubarb. Flowers and citruses, geraniums, green tea sound in the "heart". In the loop you will hear shades of cedar, vetiver and rhubarb. The heavy glass bottle was created by Pininfarina, an Italian luxury car brand.
Guerlain Vetiver
Guerlain Vetiver is a great gift for a modern man: brilliant, self-confident and sensible. This is a new interpretation of modern elegance, restraint and masculinity.
The aroma can be described as invigorating, spontaneous, self-sufficient. At the beginning of it, notes of lemon sound, and in the “heart” shades of vetiver root. The composition is completed by chords of tobacco, nutmeg, black pepper.
L'instant de Guerlain pour Homme
This is a fragrance created back in 2004 for bold, romantic, spontaneous and gallant gentlemen. The perfume is based on warm woody notes, and also combines the energy of heat and cold.
Top notes consist of anise, grapefruit, spicy elemi wood from the distant Philippines. The warm "heart" note consists of sandalwood, Indian jasmine, bitter cocoa beans, lapsang tea. In the drydown, chords of hibiscus seeds and patchouli flower from Indonesia are felt.
