Types of fabric stitching. Hand stitches: types and technology of execution

Each of the sewing devices is a mini-atelier at home - the functions they represent are so diverse. And not the least role in such possibilities is played by the types of stitches performed on a sewing machine. It will be interesting to find out which of them are really necessary and which ones you can do without. In some models of modern sewing devices, the number of lines can reach up to a hundred or even more. Some of them are used more often, others - only in the case of decorative finishing.

Such lines are called “working” in another way. And the most popular of them are straight line and zigzag seam. Here is a photo of a standard panel with a selection of lines for the Astralux machine:

In addition to these two, you can give a list of the most popular lines:

imitation overlock;
for elastic materials;
secret;
used for lining;
sewing loops.

For most of them, special paws are used - without them, high-quality completion of the task will not be possible. They are usually included with the device or purchased separately.

Even in a simple model, most of them will be enough to work with a wide range of different fabrics - from knitwear to leather. With their help you can perform a large number of operations - from sewing on zippers to buttons and buttonhole sewing(the latter operation is performed less frequently).

For a novice user, it would be useful to have more detailed information, from which you can learn about the species diversity of even simple and zigzag lines. Some of them will be on the verge of working and decorative. So, let's check the row panel of our sewing machine.

This straight line is used where it is needed in sewing operations.
There is double and even triple enhanced string. It will be used when additional strength of the seam is needed. Another option is to use it to imitate a thick thread (for example, when hemming jeans). A similar choice will be good for stretchy fabric - this will prevent the seam from tearing (although it is better to use the same option, but only elastic).
We came to zigzags: if the regular one is used for edge and decorative stitching, then its elastic counterpart will have better stretch and is used when sewing in elastic and sewing curtains. will also look great in darning and embroidery.
An unusual line called " double cross» used when sewing sportswear. It is also used for decorative purposes.
Open overlock line- this, of course, is only a semblance of an overcast seam. But it can be used for stitching and edge processing. This is especially true in the case of stretchable materials.
Closed overlock seams gets the function of processing the edges of fabric like jersey. It can also be used to prevent the edges from “scattering” on materials prone to this unpleasant phenomenon.
Honeycomb stitch is on the border between decorative and working. On the one hand, it will be excellent for decorative processing of edges, on the other hand, it works perfectly in tandem with elastic thread, which will be threaded into the bobbin. Suitable for stretchable materials.
It will also be stretchable connecting stitch. As its name suggests, in addition to its decorative effect (for example, in patchwork), its direct purpose is to connect the material.
Decorative elastic stitching You can stitch the fabric end to end. It is also great for joining overlapping parts, even if there is skin under the needle. Naturally, she is also capable of decorative finishing.
Pullover stitch, which has a compacted edge, will allow you to get stretchy and overcast seams on knitted items. With its help such details will be sewn together. Usually it processes the product from the left edge.
Secret line option Designed for working with dense, non-stretchy fabrics. When doing this hem, it will be important to fold the fabric correctly. And for elastic material, its corresponding analogue should be used
It is needed not only for decorative finishing - it is also used to process the edges, followed by cutting them off.
Recognized as a working line clothes loop. It is divided into semi-automatic (created in about four steps) and automatic buttonhole (which is used when sewing shirts, blouses, bed linen, and so on).

Decorative options

Usually they are performed much less frequently, and in most cases they have purely “decorative” motives. The range of their options is not so wide, besides, not every potential user will look closely at such models, believing that he will rarely use them. What a waste - in addition to a large selection of ornamental patterns, these seams have the ability to imitate the simplest embroidery (from cross stitch and hemstitch to openwork and similar lines).

Let's look at the most popular types of decorative stitches on a sewing machine.

Specialized stitches

A special word should be said about overlock seams: the sewing machine recreates it similar only in appearance. Being a lockstitch device (and not a chain stitch, like a flat stitch), it strongly tensions its threads, which means it does not allow them to stretch. Under heavy load, they will tear or become deformed, while the version made from a real overlocker will return to its original position.

Interesting and loop stitches. It is better, of course, to choose one that works in a special mode. In this case, it will be enough to place the button in a special foot, and the device itself will determine its size and completely fit the loop - the user will only have to cut a hole in it.

It should be noted that even simple machines can sew stitches on different types of materials. Therefore, it is not necessary to buy an expensive unit right away - you can start with an average level of electromechanical devices or with simple electronic ones.

Typically, such models contain up to 30 types of stitches, including those suitable for knitwear, imitation overlock, and even automatic loop-forming stitches.

And if a professional is already looking after the equipment, then we can fully recommend it for purchase computerized typewriter. Most often, such units also contain full-fledged embroidery functions (up to the Cyrillic and Latin alphabet). The number of lines in such models ranges from 50 to 1000. In addition to fully automated functions, they have another indisputable advantage - they work almost silently.

Hand stitches are most often indispensable at the initial stage of manufacturing a product, for example, for simple connection and fastening of parts - these are temporary stitches, which are most often performed with contrasting threads, and which are simply removed after all necessary operations have been completed.

Stitches can also have a permanent purpose - used for stitches, perform a decorative function, etc. If we go deeper into terminalology, the smallest unit of hand sewing is a stitch, which is a complete interweaving of threads or thread between punctures of fabric or other material, made at some distance from each other with a needle. Stitches repeated on a material are called stitches, and a stitch or stitches applied to join two or more sections of fabric together is called a seam. The stitch in hand sewing is most often the seam, since in this case most of the seams consist of one single line. Below are the types of hand stitches and the stitches they create.

Straight hand stitches

They serve mainly for temporary connection and fastening of parts at the initial stage of preparing the product for fitting and adjustment, for processing with a sewing machine. The following lines are performed using straight stitches:

Straight running stitch

Straight running stitch (seam) - for making a stitch (seam) parallel to the fabric cut or simply along the intended line with straight stitches.

Straight basting stitch

Straight basting stitch (seam) - for fastening two parts of different sizes, most often with a thread of a contrasting color.

Straight note stitch

Straight note stitch (seam) - for fixing folded edges of parts (bottom of products, etc.)

Straight basting stitch

Straight basting stitch (seam) - to secure the edges of individual parts that have been previously joined (by machine or hand stitching) and turned right side out (flaps, collar, cuffs).

Direct copying (snare)

Straight copy stitch (snake) - for transferring control marks and chalk lines from one part to another. The stitches do not tighten, but form small loops - after the work is completed, the parts are moved equidistantly apart and the threads are cut between them. Chalk lines are drawn along the remaining scraps of thread to create an outline.

Straight gathering stitch

Straight gathering stitch - to form gathers by laying one, and most often, two parallel straight basting lines and then tightening the threads to the desired amount.

Diagonal hand stitches

They are more elastic connections, moreover, they are stronger and therefore are often used as stitches for temporary or permanent purposes. The following lines are sewn with oblique stitches:

Bias basting stitch

Oblique basting stitch (seam) - to obtain a stable connection of parts, eliminating the possibility of them shifting during the further processing process. Or to secure the upper part to the lower part with a fit (upper collar to the lower one, etc.).

Bias basting stitch

Oblique basting stitch (seam) - for temporary processing of the edges of parts, after turning with a machine stitch. Applicable in fabrics without a pattern, since during wet-heat treatment the possibility of distortion of the pattern is not excluded.

Bias overcasting stitch

Oblique overlock stitch (seam) - for fastening along the edges of parts in order to prevent them from falling off. This is especially true when making products without lining.

Bias quilting

Bias quilting stitch - for fastening parts on the surface in the form of main and interlining fabric in order to increase their elasticity. In this case, the upper part is pierced through, the lower part is pierced only half its thickness, and the material of the upper part is slightly adjusted (lapel, collars, etc.). If done correctly, there should be no stitch marks on the front side of the top piece.

Bias hem stitch

Oblique hem stitch - to secure the folded edge of a workpiece with an open cut made of non-flowing or slightly flowing materials (mainly used in the manufacture of outerwear). There are open, hidden and figured.

Bias stitching

Oblique stitching - for fastening parts end-to-end in places where there is a tear or a cut. They are mainly used for repairing clothes made from non-fraying, dense materials. The material is pierced only half the thickness - and from the front side such a stitch is invisible.

Frank Sullivan

At one time, my restless character made me very nervous when I had to do some of the seams by hand. It's just something on the typewriter - whack! - and you're done.

I can’t say that I have changed much since then, but my attitude towards hand stitches has noticeably improved. For example, when cleanly turning the same collar, you can’t do without a basting, which helps to iron the part correctly. You can, of course, turn it almost under the iron and iron it straight away, but in addition to the risk of getting burned, there is a very high probability of the edge of the part being skewed due to uneven stretching.

In this section, as previously in “Machine Stitches,” we will examine only the basic options for hand stitches, that is, those that are useful always, everywhere, and for all sewing enthusiasts.

Besides main hand stitches there are a huge number of seams decorative, embroidery and overcasting, We will meet some of them later, when we examine thematic sections of sewing, for example, processing the bottom of the product.

I would like to immediately say about performing overlock seams by hand.

In the literature you can find a description of the implementation “overlock bias seam”, “loop overlock seam” and some others. By and large, hand-stitching is nothing more than a rudiment, an atavism and a mockery of delicate female (and maybe strong male) hands. And it’s an extremely irrational waste of time, while all the stitching can be done in a matter of minutes on a machine, sewing or overlocking machine. Even the presence of a simple zig-zag is a compelling argument for refusing such operations. Therefore, we will consider the topic of processing seams by hand closed and move on to hand seams that are useful in sewing practice.

Running stitch or needle forward stitch. The most common and frequently used type of stitch. On fabric it looks like a dotted line, and its implementation is learned in school during labor lessons. In adult tailoring life, such stitches are used to connect parts, sweep edges cleanly, attach fabric or perform assembly (you can read about the role of the basting stitch in assembly later in a thematic article with the appropriate title).

The existence of a seam “forward with a needle” determines the presence of an antonym, a seam "back with a needle." In ancient times, such a seam was used to sew in zippers, which in modern conditions seems wild.

The “back needle” seam is very similar to the seam "hand stitching" There is only space between the stitches.

The seam “hand stitching” is the strongest hand stitch, from the front side it looks like a machine straight stitch and each new stitch begins exactly where the previous one ended, and from the back it looks like a chain stitch.

The area of use of “hand stitching” lies in places where it is impossible to reach with a machine, or the machine is at home, and you are at a resort and your pants suddenly rip in the most piquant place.

It was previously used to hem the bottom of a knitted item or thick drape, and with today’s variety of methods for processing the bottom, it has almost completely moved into the category of decorative.

Hidden seams those performed by hand have also slightly lost their relevance due to the huge selection of different paws and devices for hemming the hem using hand-made seams (we will talk in more detail about the role of blind seams when hemming the hem later, and in this section we will deal only with the basic technique).

The main purpose of a blind seam is to hold together in the absence of stitches on the front of the product. This is quite a painstaking job that requires attention, patience and eye strain, since the folded part is sewn to just one thread of the main part.

Mastering the hidden seam will also be useful when sewing a lining to a jacket or coat, or other model. Of course, there is a way to economically sew on a lining, when only a small hole is left in the middle seam of the back, through which the entire product with a lining machine-sewn along the entire perimeter is turned inside out. However, this is not always achievable, so you need to be ready to pick up a saber and a knight, and into the line of fire.

To make a blind seam evenly, you should first connect the edges of the parts to be sewn to avoid displacement. This can be done with a basting stitch or simply joined with tailor's pins, pinned perpendicular to the seam line.

Make a thin knot on the thread and insert the needle from the inside out so that the knot is not visible. We make a stitch inside the hem, bring the needle out, and pull out the thread. Then, at the point where the needle exits, we grab literally one thread from the main panel (which is located towards us, like the famous hut on chicken legs, that is, “backward”), carefully pull the thread and again bring the needle inside the hem, making a new stitch. And we repeat these steps until the fabric runs out, after which we fasten the end of the thread and, with a clear conscience, go to iron the hem.

When making a blind seam when hemming thin fabrics, you should very carefully bring the needle under the threads; if the tension is strong, the fiber may be pulled or even broken. Here it is better not to be zealous, but to use a military trick: pick up not one, but two or even several threads, even if the stitch is visible from the front side. The main thing is that the thread should not be tightened, but rather left slouched. Later, when ironing the hem, this stitch will straighten out and disguise itself as the fibers of the main fabric (provided, of course, that the threads are matched tone to tone).

Returning to the seam mentioned in vain "goat" We can also recommend it as a decorative one for those sewing enthusiasts who have not yet acquired sewing machines with finishing stitches. Made with contrasting threads along the edge of the side or patch pockets, it can bring noticeable revitalization to the “interface” of the selected model.

In conclusion, I would like to pay tribute to the craftswomen who master the technique of performing decorative seams. Although this has little to do with sewing, it mostly relates to embroidery, but with the combination of these two arts - sewing and embroidery - you can create such masterpieces that any overseas “hand made” person will be jealous.

Sewing clothes by hand has long been no longer profitable. With the help of a sewing machine this happens faster and better. And different types of machine seams make the product as durable as possible. It withstands not only long-term use, but also frequent washing. The main thing is to know in which case how to sew.

Classification of seams

Even at school, children learn a variety of machine stitches. The 7th grade even understands in practice how to perform them using a sewing machine.

All seams are divided into three types: connecting, edge and finishing. Connecting seams are designed to fasten together different parts of the future product. These are considered basic. Of course, there are some quite unusual ones among them, but they are used extremely rarely.

Edge seams are designed to shape the edges of the product so that they do not fray or spoil. They are just as important as connecting ones. Although there are some techniques when the edges are left untrimmed. But these are special cases.

Finishing seams rarely connect parts of a product or shape its edges. They are designed to decorate and create unusual effects. Machine finishing seams are somewhere in the middle between embroidery and a regular seam.

Types of connecting seams

In the specialized literature, the terminology of machine seams is quite extensive, and sometimes even a little synonymous. The same seam may have several names, but the technology of its execution does not change.

Tailors distinguish the following main types of seams:

Stitching and overcasting are used to simply join two pieces of fabric together.
A double reverse seam is appropriate for bedding and children's clothing. It has a less rough scar, and the edges of the fabric processed in this way do not fray.
The boring seam is used in those places where the boundaries of the fabric connection need to be hidden as much as possible.
The sewing seam has two options. Most often it is found on the market. Therefore, its second name is denim.
An adjustment seam is necessary in order to securely fasten two parts together in the place where the maximum load will be on them.

As you can see, machine seams are very diverse, and they are used for specific tasks. In order for them to have maximum efficiency, it is necessary to correctly follow the technology for their implementation.

Stitched and overlock seams

The main machine seams used to connect the parts of garments are stitching and overcasting. Essentially, these are variations of one seam used for different purposes.

The stitch seam is based on a thread connecting stitch. Moreover, the width of the seam itself directly depends on the quality and properties of the fabric, as well as on the purpose of using the product. Width is the distance from the edge of the part to the stitching.

Its technology looks like this: the parts of the product are folded with their front sides facing each other and stitched at a previously determined distance from the edge. Next, the sections can be ironed, that is, laid out on different sides and smoothed with an iron, or ironed in one direction or on the edge.

For collars, straps, pocket flaps and cuffs, it is more appropriate to use a backstitch. First, the product is sewn with a stitch seam. Then, from the front side, you need to sweep the product so that you get a small edge - 1-2 mm wide. But this is not an axiom. For example, the facing seam can be up to 8 mm if it is a fraying fabric. These are the types of machine seams that are basic for tailors.

Denim seam

This is a very strong and reliable seam. Anyone who has jeans at home has seen it. And everyone has them. In any manual you will find different types of machine seams, the table of which always contains several types of closed (denim) stitches. Its advantage is also that it looks equally beautiful both from the front side and from the back.

The technology for its manufacture is clear and relatively simple. Place the two pieces right sides together. In this case, the lower one should protrude about 1 cm from under the upper one. We sew the parts together at a distance of about 7 mm from the edge of the top. The first stage of work on the seam is completed.

The bottom edge of the product must be folded up to the stitching and covered with the top layer of fabric. Turning the product over to the other side, sew a fold at a distance of 1-2 mm from its edge on both sides. We will end up with a fold with two parallel lines that look the same on both the front and back sides.

Other connecting machine seams

Overlay seams are widely used when connecting pockets or yokes to the product. They have a medium degree of strength. At the same time, they require a high level of seamstress skill, since uneven stitching will ruin the appearance of the product.

This seam comes in two types: with an open edge and a closed edge. For a closed edge, the piece is pre-ironed and basted to make it easier to work with. The technology for making the seam is simple. The required part is placed on the pre-designated place and sewn on with a regular or decorative stitch. The sewing area is smoothed out thoroughly.

The stitch stitch is a connecting and decorative stitch. It is performed on the basis of a stitch seam. Its width should be slightly larger, since on the wrong side the edges of the seam are smoothed and stitched parallel to the main one. The distance can be any. The main thing is to meet two important conditions:

1) the seams must be strictly parallel to the middle;

2) the distance from the central seam to the side seams should be perfectly equal.

Otherwise, the entire decorative effect will disappear, and you will only have a sloppy product.

Methods for finishing edges

It is important for any product to properly trim its edges. For industrial purposes and professional tailors, there is an overlocker for this purpose. This machine allows you to trim the edge in such a way that it will never crumble again. But outwardly it does not look very neat. Therefore, visible edges can be processed further.

For these purposes, both hemming of the fabric and its edging are used. It depends on the type and structure of the material with which the master works. Also, the performance characteristics impose their own characteristics on the processing of edges.

Most often, a variety of hem and edge machine stitches are used. 7th grade in schools examines the technologies of the main ones. Therefore, every woman knows approximately how they are performed and when it is best to use them.

Sometimes, to give a greater decorative effect, you can combine them with finishing seams or decorative stitches.

Hem seams

The most common types of machine stitches for finishing the edge of a product are various hem stitches. Let's start with the simplest thing - with an open edge. We take the product and iron its edges to the wrong side. After this, we sew with a regular or decorative stitch at a distance of 5-7 mm from the bend. If we are dealing with fraying fabric, then it is better to overlock it first. This type of seam is used so as not to weigh down the bottom of the product. But the edge is always subject to fraying.

The double seam allows you to hide the raw edge inside. To do this, first iron the edge towards the wrong side, and then bend it and iron it again, hiding the edge inside. After this, we sew the seam in such a way as to stitch both layers. Such a seam turns out to be more reliable, but also voluminous at the same time, which is not very good for lightweight products.

Another option for hems is to sew a double seam twice, 2-3 millimeters from the bottom bend, and the same distance from the top inner hem. This is found mainly in trousers and jeans, which are most susceptible to wear and tear.

Edge seams

For the neckline and bottom of the sleeves in blouses, a radically different technology is sometimes needed. The machine stitches here should be light and with minimal scarring to avoid chafing the skin. In such cases, edging seams are used.

It is quite difficult to make them without preliminary basting, since the seamstress has to watch three edges. In this case, the edge bends inward, which significantly complicates the process.

A piping is a piece of fabric that covers the outer edge of a product. It is selected in such a length that it is enough to finish around the entire perimeter. On both sides, the edging flap is ironed towards the wrong side. Next it is basted to the product and stitched as close to the edge as possible.

A slightly more complicated option is to pre-assemble the edges of the product into folds. In such cases, edging is simply necessary in order to add durability to the product. But it is much more difficult to stitch it so that the folds are uniform.

Decorative seams

Sewing the product is not a problem. It is much more difficult to make it beautiful, elegant and fashionable. For these purposes, there are different types of machine seams. A table of decorative stitches always comes with your sewing machine. Their use will significantly revive the product. But you can also resort to more professional methods. To do this you need to show a little imagination and sewing skill.

In fact, all decorative and finishing seams are based on connecting and edge seams. It’s just that their performance uses techniques that are not entirely specific to them. We'll look at which ones below.

Complicated cut

We all know that, for example, a blouse consists of two front shelves and a back. There's nothing particularly decorative about it. Pure classic and boring. But the same shelves can be cut out from two or more parts, and to connect them, use different types of machine seams, the diagrams of which we discussed above.

Let's add a little "hooliganism" to the cuffs. We will sew them with an overlay seam, and even from several flaps. At the same time, let’s fray the edges of the latter a little, as if they were small patches. Of course, this technique can only be done with natural fabric, which practically does not fray. But this shows the main principle of finishing seams - don’t be afraid to experiment.

Sewing machines

To perform basic types of machine seams, a household sewing machine is sufficient. In addition, modern models often come with additional feet and attachments that make this process easier. Some of them even allow you to do small embroideries, which is important in the process of decorating products.

At the same time, some craftswomen say that not a single modern model can compare with classic Soviet cars. This indicates that for high-quality work, skill and a little professional intuition are enough.

This is the simplest straight seam. The line is drawn from right to left. The needle is always directed only forward along the stitching, hence the name of the seam.

The distance between stitches and the length of the stitches may vary, depending on the purpose of the seam. The ways to use this seam are very varied.

1.Running seam. It is used for basting, that is, for temporarily connecting parts in preparation for fitting. “White”, that is, finally, the parts are sewn down on a machine, along the line of the basting seam. After this, the basting stitch thread is removed. It comes out of the fabric easily if you pull it. The length of the stitches in case of basting can reach 3-5 cm.

2. Interlining seam. It is performed in the same way as basting, but only on one layer of fabric. It is used to apply lines and marks (darts, marking the middle of a part, etc.)

3. Copy seam (snares). This seam is used to transfer (copy) lines of symmetrical parts. It is performed as follows. Fold two parts and sweep them away. But unlike a regular running stitch, the stitches are made freely and are not tightened so that loops are formed. After the stitching is completed, the parts are moved apart and the thread is cut in the middle. A basting line remains on both parts, the threads of which can then be easily pulled out:

4. Assembly. To make the assembly, use this particular seam. They lay a line along the part, and then the part is assembled along this line. Then the ends of the thread are secured so that the assembly does not fall apart.

5. The “forward needle” seam can be used not only as a temporary one, but also as a decorative. You can embroider, for example, a napkin with this stitch. The peculiarity of the decorative stitch, in contrast to the “rough” stitch, is that such a seam requires even, identical stitches. Depending on the purpose and requirements for the type of pattern, the spacing between the stitches on the front side can be reduced to a minimum of 1-2 mm.

2. Seam “Back the needle”, or “Behind the needle”

This seam got its name because, after completing the next stitch, the needle returns back to the end of the penultimate stitch, and a new stitch leads from it under the place from which the thread was just pulled out. The next thread to the front part is made at a distance equal to double the length of the stitch.

This seam is otherwise called a "machine stitch" because it resembles machine stitching. And it is used in cases where you need to make a stitch of the same quality as on a machine, but it is impossible or difficult to do it with a machine. For example, when replacing a zipper on a leather jacket. Another example: a machine seam came apart over a short distance - a few centimeters. It takes too long to take out the machine and refuel it. It’s easier to grab it with a hand stitch. It will hold up no worse than a machine stitch, but you need to stitch it in a caric pattern so that it does not differ in appearance from a machine stitch, and tighten the stitches well so that the seam does not stretch in the future.

3. “Loophole” or overcast seam

The needle is inserted into the fabric at a stitch height distance and moved up to the edge. The first stitch is a simple stitch. Then a loop is made from the thread and a needle is inserted into it in the same way, from bottom to top. Bring it out in front of the loop and tighten it.

This seam is used in the following cases.

1. For sewing buttonholes.

2. For processing the edges of loose fabrics.

3. The buttonhole stitch is used as a finishing stitch when processing the edges of napkins, clothing, and felt products.

Depending on the purpose, the height and width of the stitches may vary. Typically, the density of a buttonhole seam is 2-3 stitches 4-6 mm long per 1 cm of fabric.

The buttonhole stitch can also be used for embroidery.