Two-step craquelure varnish for decoupage. Craquelure varnish. Craquelures in decoupage: description and varnishes

Good time everyone! I did this master class to help one craftswoman master the shellac-gum arabic pairing. I think that it will be useful for beginning craftsmen, and knowledgeable people will not throw rotten tomatoes at me.

We will need: a craquelure pair of shellac and gum arabic, a means for grouting cracks (which will be clear below), acrylic varnish (aqua), non-aqueous varnish.

Before applying the craquelure, cover the glued motif with at least 2 layers of acrylic varnish. This will protect the picture if crackle fails, and will also level the surface. We need a flat synthetic brush for shellac, preferably a round soft brush for gum arabic, a glass of alcohol (or vodka) to wash the shellac off the brush.

I apply the first layer of shellac evenly and thinly. I let it dry for 5-7 minutes, it’s better to wait longer so that the underlying layer sets well.

On the upper right plate you can see a yellow spot: this lapse is due to the fact that the bottom layer was not dry, I started applying a second one and it dragged the first one along with it. I numbered the plates to make it clear how much the size of the cracks depends on the number of layers. On the first - 1 layer, on the second - 2, on the third - 3.

When the last layer dries slightly and does not smear, but sticks a little to the finger, apply gum arabic liberally.

Massage it a little with your fingers, feeling the adhesion to the bottom layer. It is imperative to do this on vertical surfaces to prevent smudges from forming. Leave to dry for at least 3-4 hours, preferably overnight.

Stage two - grouting cracks. There are several options here.
FIRST. Rub the dry pastel with a knife.

Rinse the cotton swab a little and rub the surface with it.

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I remove excess pastel with a cotton pad.

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WITHOUT WASHING off anything, fix the pastel in the cracks with NON-AQUEOUS varnish, I prefer car aerosol, although you can use either Zapon or alkyd (you’ll just have to wait longer for drying)

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SECOND option
Dry pigments (in the second photo, top left). Bronze powder, metallic pigments, etc. We proceed in the same way as with pastels.

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The finished result.

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THIRD option
I use construction bitumen varnish (0.5 l - 26 rubles). It is diluted with white spirit as necessary, and it is also used to wipe off hands and, if necessary, wash off the crackle. Specialized bitumen can only be used NON-WATER-BASED.

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I spread the bitumen with a cotton pad and let it dry.

Today I want to talk about craquelures. After I started posting my work online, I was bombarded with questions about craquelure, so I decided to devote a page to this interesting topic.

First, I want to say that you will find very interesting articles from Elena Ostrovskaya.
1 part
part 2
.
These are very informative master classes, I advise everyone who is interested to read them carefully. Now about my craquelure varnishes. I'm only using this small amount at the moment.

One-step varnish from Tair company. Always cracks! It is applied between contrasting paints, cracking the top layer. The primer is applied, then paint-varnish-paint, then you can stick on a napkin, a rice card, whatever, and only then the finishing varnish that seals the work. Be careful, some varnishes are not friendly with craquelure ones and also tend to crack or even shrink and fall off. I recommend applying craquelure varnish on a test item and trying to cover it with a finishing varnish to see if there is a symbiosis between them.

Examples of my work with one-step craquelure varnish. The first layer is gold, the second is brown. By the way, all metallic paint should NOT be used for a second coat, it will NOT crack. Can only be used as the first layer!

Since I already posted my work here, the logo is already present in the photo, so it’s double. Here the first is brown, the second is Neapolitan yellow. I did the craquelure on this box not even with varnish, but with PVA glue. The principle is absolutely the same as with one-step varnish. I applied the top layer with a brush, the cracks are different, they seem to stretch from the brush, you can even create a pattern. Here you can clearly see that the cracks are thicker on top and thinner on the sides. This does not depend on the thickness of the varnish, as many people write for some reason, but on the thickness of the second layer of paint. The thicker the layer, the larger and thicker the cracks will be. On the sides I slightly diluted the paint with water, made the layer thinner and got a finer mesh. Don’t be afraid to experiment on unnecessary objects, I craquelured a bunch of simple cans at home to learn how, you don’t have to paint an expensive thing right away!

We sorted out the one-step one. Now two-step. This means that there are two steps, two jars with different compositions. The first is basic, the second is cracking. Two-step craquelure is applied to the completed work, where all the pictures have already been pasted, everything you wanted has been painted on, all types of dark and gold paints have been applied. The final stage is craquelure.
The most trouble-free is the Creall pair. The varnishes are signed, all instructions are given on the back, the type of cracks is shown throughout the label. After applying the first layer (you don't need to apply a very thick layer, it's just a base layer), I dry it a little with a hairdryer in order to speed up the process. At this stage, many people overdry the varnish, then no matter how much you apply the second layer, there will be cracks, but nothing will stick in them, the varnish has dried out! Here you need to dry the varnish so that it is sticky, but does not remain on your fingers. Yes, you’ll have to gently poke your finger into it every five to seven seconds and check for stickiness. As soon as it does not stick to your fingers, immediately remove the hairdryer and apply the second layer. Here, as your imagination tells you, thinner and smaller cracks are needed - apply a thin layer, huge thick cracks are needed - I apply two layers of thick cracks at once, I will show the result below. And also a hairdryer. And you shouldn’t overdry it either. Dry until the layers become transparent, immediately rub the cracks, otherwise everything will dry out. I’ll also tell you about the types of grout below.

Here are two coats of the second polish. Cracks of 5 mm are obtained. I rubbed it with dry gold pigment. If the pigment is not stuck to the cracks, I take a damp cotton pad and gently wipe it away. Everything is cleaned up right away before it dries out.

Here the pigment is silver.

Varnish Idea. It is undesirable for white works as it turns yellow. After rubbing, you need to expose the work under a gentle stream of water and wash off the second layer of varnish. Do not touch it with your fingers, as you will erase the craquelure itself, do not worry, the water itself will wash away everything that is needed. I like.

The craquelure turns out beautiful.

Such thin, broken cracks. I rubbed it with a wax pencil.

Lucky Idigo. Water-based, therefore odorless. The mesh turns out beautiful, and you can also make the cracks thicker or thinner. Very good on white and blue surfaces, does not yellow. The can shows the type of cracks and instructions for use.

This decanter is made with two types of craquelure. Below is one-step, and above is two-step, Idigo.

More Idigo. I rubbed it with oil paints.

Shellac and gum arabic. Very elegant and fine craquelure, very expensive jars. It turns yellow a little.

The thicker the second layer, the rarer the cracks.

Hobby thread craquelures. Water based. The craquelure turns out to be very thin indeed.

This is how it turns out on the board.

This is a beveled varnish. There is a picture on the lid of what will happen. There are different colors. Apply to a surface primed and painted in a contrasting color. This is, so to speak, both paint and varnish in one. Looks like paste. Apply with a palette knife as written in the instructions. Also, the thicker the layer, the larger the cracks.

Here he is at work.

Now about what needs to be rubbed. Only two-step craquelure is rubbed, I hope this is clear. Craquelure can be rubbed over with dry pigment. The colors are mostly metallic. When I can't find a color, I take old shadows and rub them in.

Wax crayons. I used it once, I didn’t really like it, so I’m leaving it without comment.

Oil paints. There are no metallic paints in the set, but you can wipe them down with them. I rub it into the craquelure with my finger, then wipe it with a dry cloth. Like. Can be used if the craquelure is slightly dry and the pigment does not stick.

When I was learning to craquelure, I couldn’t find anywhere exactly such a detailed explanation of what and why, so I tried to tell the very basics in as much detail as possible. I really hope that I helped newbies understand it. In general, my advice is to try it yourself! Not at work, but as I already said, at banks. Apply a little, see the effect, take into account mistakes and try again.

Craquelure (from the French word “craquelure”) is the name given to cracks in a layer of paint or varnish on works of art. In modern design, artificial aging of the surface of interior items, which is also called “craquelure,” has become very popular. Master classes on creating various products with a unique antique charm are quite expensive. Knowing the basics of such decor techniques, anyone can independently create unique interior items.

How can you get craquelure?

Master classes of novice interior designers most often use special varnishes to create “aged” items. That's what they're called - craquelure. To emphasize and highlight cracks formed on the surface of an object, ink or pastel is specially rubbed into the varnish. Compositions intended for patination give a remarkable effect.

The craquelure technique, despite all the new compositions, still cannot compete with natural cracks in works of art. That is why experts can easily distinguish the original antique item from a fake.

Tools and materials for applying craquelure

Craquelure can be applied to almost any surface. Master classes on varnishing glass, wood, ceramics, metal or paper, despite some similarities, still have certain differences. That is why for each of these types of materials the most appropriate technique for executing a given design should be used.

To apply this decorative coating you will need the following tools and special compounds:

Synthetic brush;

Hair dryer for drying the product;

Primer;

Acrylic paints (preferably in contrasting tones);

One-component craquelure and finishing varnish.

In the absence of expensive compounds, you can use available materials: egg whites, table vinegar, washing gel, gelatin. There are several methods of application to various surfaces. Below are the most popular ones.

Single-phase craquelure

The most popular is one-step craquelure. Master classes on creating this simple coating, also called single-phase, are the most popular. It is used to create a surface with spectacular contrasting cracks. To do this you will need one-component craquelure and acrylic finishing varnishes and a hair dryer.

A primer is applied to the thoroughly cleaned surface of the item (selected depending on the material from which the item is made). To speed up the drying process of the composition, use a hairdryer. Acrylic paint is applied to the dried primer. It is this that will be visible in the resulting cracks. After it dries, craquelure varnish is evenly applied on top. It must be remembered that the thicker its layer, the larger the resulting cracks. When the varnish dries a little and does not stick to the fingers (without losing its stickiness), the main (second) acrylic paint is applied to it. After about 10 minutes, cracks will begin to appear on the surface of the object.

The dried paint is carefully coated with finishing varnish. This coating is called “one-step craquelure”. A decorating master class using this technique can be repeated even by a person far from design and art. This finishing method is excellent for decorating porcelain and wooden interior items, jewelry boxes, and photo frames. By honing your skills in this technique, you can create unique products.

Decoupage. Craquelure (master class)

Another technique for applying such coatings, called decoupage, is no less popular. Its essence is that various pictures cut from napkins are glued onto a craquelure mesh of cracks. Some experts perform decoupage in reverse order. In this case, the craquelure is applied to the pictures already glued to the surface of the object.

To work, you need the product itself, two tones, PVA glue, cut out and selected designs, acrylic varnish, art brushes, and a hairdryer.

Stages of making craquelure using decoupage technique

Cleaning and degreasing the surface of an object using alcohol.

Applying an even layer of water-based paint to the surface using an art brush. Dry until completely dry.

Apply a layer of PVA glue to the surface using brush movements from top to bottom or from left to right.

After the object has dried, a contrasting (second) paint is applied. The movements of the brush should be the same as when applying glue.

Without waiting for the paint to dry, a stream of hot air from a hair dryer is directed onto the surface of the object. Under its influence, the coating will begin to crack. The longer the product dries, the rougher and deeper the cracks will be.

The item is decorated with napkins using glue. The dried product is coated with several layers of acrylic clear varnish.

This craquelure looks good on dishes, flower pots, vases, and trays.

Two-step craquelure

Master classes on this technique are a little more complicated than the previous ones. To work you will need acrylic varnish, art brushes, gum arabic (a viscous liquid that hardens in air), shellac bitumen, gold or silver powder. Applying craquelure consists of the following steps:

The cleaned surface of the object is covered with 2 layers of acrylic varnish. After it dries, a generous layer of shellac is applied to it. The thicker it is, the larger and rougher the cracks will be. To obtain a barely noticeable openwork mesh, a thin layer of shellac will be enough. When applying this substance, possible smudges should be avoided, since this error is almost impossible to correct.

When the surface of the shellac dries slightly, but is still sticky, apply gum arabic (the consistency of liquid sour cream) on top of it in a thick layer. With light movements of the fingertips, this substance is rubbed over the entire surface. After about 3 minutes, the gum arabic will begin to stick to your hands. At this time, the “massage” movements must be stopped.

When gum arabic dries, cracks will form on the surface. To emphasize them, bitumen is rubbed into them. Then golden or silver powder is applied along the cracks.

The finished product is coated with finishing varnish.

Craquelure on glass objects

Various glass products decorated using this technique look very impressive. The entire process of working with this material is practically no different from the above methods. At the same time, most needlewomen prefer to use single-phase craquelure on glass.

To work, you will need the object itself, acrylic paint in 2 contrasting tones, varnish, a synthetic art brush, and craquelure varnish. The glass surface on which the decor will be applied is degreased with alcohol. Then it is primed with acrylic varnish. After it dries, apply paint of one tone (it will show through in the cracks). After this, craquelure varnish is applied to the surface. When it dries a little, but has not yet lost its stickiness, the product is coated with the main (second) acrylic paint. After cracks appear and the composition dries, varnish is applied to the surface.

Craquelure on a wooden surface

This decorative technique is most often used to decorate old furniture, which can become the highlight of the interior. In this case, you can use both one- and two-step craquelure. A master class on wood is practically no different from the above surface treatment techniques. The main conditions for successful and other items using the craquelure technique are their thorough cleaning of old paint and varnish coatings and puttying of damage.

Features of applying craquelure

Like any type of design, this one also has a few secrets that can make the job easier. The craquelure technique, which anyone can master, allows you to get the job done quickly and without any defects. To do this, you should remember the following techniques:

An artistic brush should only be synthetic.

After the craquelure varnish has dried, the cracks are often rubbed over with “silver”, “gold powder”, or dark-colored oil paint. After this, the remnants of these products are removed from the surface with vegetable oil and wiped dry. The processed product is coated with acrylic varnish. This technique allows you to turn even a simple object into a work of art.

The varnish should not be shaken before application to prevent bubbles from forming. The work area must be free of dust and thoroughly ventilated.

Cracks on the surface are in the same direction as the movement of the brush. To obtain the so-called craquelure mesh, use a sponge or make very small strokes.

How to make craquelure?

The simplest DIY craquelure is called single-phase (or one-step). It is used to obtain a uniform surface color with contrasting cracks. In order to complete it, you need to stock up on the following items:

• The item you have chosen for decoration;
• Primer brush;
• PVA glue or primer;
• One-component varnish for craquelure;
• Acrylic paints in two contrasting tones to create a design;
• Finishing varnish (acrylic);
• Regular hair dryer (to speed up drying).

Having collected all this and prepared the work room, you can begin to actually create the craquelure. Let's look at how to apply craquelure step by step:

1. Thoroughly clean the surface of the object to be decorated from dust and prime it; To make drying faster, use a hairdryer.
2. Apply acrylic paint intended for painting cracks and let it dry completely.
3. Apply the varnish quickly, evenly, without gaps - the thicker the layer, the thicker the cracks you will end up with. You need to dry the varnish to the point where it is still sticky, but no longer sticks to your fingers.
4. Apply the base paint quickly and watch the cracks appear within minutes.
5. Secure the completed paint with a finishing varnish.

Just five steps - and in front of you is an original creation that can fit perfectly into your interior!

Craquelure using improvised means

While you decide to buy the necessary materials, decide which craquelure product to choose, I will tell you how to get craquelure using improvised means.
I am a supporter of using improvised means to obtain various effects in decoupage, I like to use egg crackle, semolina and cereals, BUT I will immediately say that if you can buy, order by mail, ask someone to bring you the means for crackle, then do not read this article))))
Although, I probably got carried away, here I thought that if you decide to decorate a barn or a bathhouse, or an entire wall (Oh, how I’m drawn to large-scale objects)))), then you’ll go broke on purchased funds. So read, experiment, and don’t forget to write down in detail and step by step if you get a good crackle, otherwise it will be difficult to repeat.

Craquelure on PVA.
1 way. Apply undiluted PVA in a thick layer to the surface to be decorated. We dry the PVA layer but not completely, how can we determine if it’s not completely dry? Experienced))) Then we apply a layer of acrylic paint and dry it. I dried it after the acrylic paint had dried on its own for a while.
Method 2. I haven’t seen a description of this method anywhere, I got it by accident, let’s assume that I slightly changed the first method). I decorated the bottle and, in order for the acrylic paint to stick better, I decided not to prime the glass with PVA, but simply mix acrylic with PVA about 50-50 and apply it to the bottle. After drying naturally for about 30 minutes, I decided to dry it with a hairdryer and... cracks began to appear.

Craquelure using egg white.
1 Prime the surface well.
2 Apply a layer of acrylic paint, which will be visible through the cracks, and dry.
3Apply varnish, dry, a layer is needed so that the protein is not absorbed later.
4Apply egg white in a random order, in good strokes, in a thick layer. Let it dry WITHOUT USING A HAIR DRYER! Dry it properly.
5Apply the contrasting paint carefully so that the strokes do not overlap one another.

Craquelure using PF 283 varnish.
Furniture varnish PF-283 is a solution of alkyd resins.
Varnish PF-283 is intended for coating furniture, as well as other wooden and metal surfaces indoors during construction and repair. Forms an impeccably smooth, uniform, transparent, glossy surface without foreign inclusions, protecting it from the effects of foam detergents, moisture and mechanical damage. It is highly economical. Furniture varnish film PF-283
Precautionary measures:
Do not work near open fire sources. Work should be carried out with good ventilation, wearing rubber gloves, using personal protective equipment. Avoid contact with respiratory and digestive organs. If varnish gets on your skin, wash it with warm water and soap. Keep away from children!
So, the main thing is to protect your hands and lungs when using PF 283 varnish. We experiment in a well-ventilated area.
We apply a layer of varnish to the surface of the object to be decorated and wait 3-4 hours until it becomes tack-free, that is, it still sticks, but no longer sticks to the finger.
Apply acrylic enamel or acrylic paint as a second layer and immediately dry with a hairdryer.
Cracks will depend on how the top coat of paint was applied. If you apply it with a brush, the cracks will follow the movement of the brush. If you want to get a mesh, apply the top layer with a sponge or small strokes.
Now, we must be patient and dry the finished craquelure for at least 36 hours (this is how long it takes for the PF to dry according to the instructions) And only after that we carry out the decoupage itself.

Craquelure using gelatin.
Getting crackle on gelatin requires a little practice, don’t be discouraged if you don’t succeed right away, however, this applies to any method of getting the coveted cracks. Even special means are capricious and you need to be able to make friends with them, let alone the means at hand.
1 tbsp. We dilute a spoonful of gelatin in a glass of cold water. We wait for swelling, and then heat it up for final dissolution. Then, cool and apply the gelatin, which begins to harden, onto the surface to be decorated. We wait 10-15 minutes, you can use a hairdryer, the main thing is not to dry it out and then apply paint to the dried gelatin. You can apply a layer of paint over the gelatin arbitrarily.
We adjust the gelatin layer depending on what kind of cracks we want to get at the exit.
A thin layer - delicate cracks. Thick layer - deep wide craquelures. If the gelatin layer is thick, it is likely to be pulled by a brush or sponge, so you need to be careful when applying a layer of paint.
If you decide to blow dry a layer of paint over gelatin, be extremely careful as the gelatin may bleed. !!!
We fix the work with several layers of acrylic varnish.
When working with glass, it must first be primed with PVA or acrylic paint.

Craquelure using table vinegar.
Using 9% table vinegar you can also get crackle.
Apply acrylic paint, dry almost completely, and gently press a sponge soaked in vinegar to the surface.
You can use this method for reverse decoupage. We glue the motif, apply a layer of paint, treat it with vinegar, dry it and then apply a contrasting layer of paint.

Craquelure using liquid washing gel.
Apply the main color, dry it... Apply the gel with a brush. The thicker the gel, the better. We apply highly diluted paint onto the gel.

The one-step craquelure composition, firstly, is one, and secondly, only cracks the top layer of paint. The two-step composition creates a thin network of cracks in the varnish coating, as if “hovering” above the surface to be decorated. And to obtain this effect, it is necessary to use two compositions in succession.

Two-step craquelure have a different base, for example, one composition is based on organic solvents, and the other is water-based. Accordingly, they have different drying rates, which results in transparent thin cracks in the varnish coating itself.

Another feature of working with two-step craquelure is the appearance of cracks. Since cracks form in transparent varnish and are difficult to see, they are revealed by rubbing them with various pigments.

Two-step craquelure is a finishing decoration, that is, it is done at the very end of the work already on top of a painted, painted or decorated surface using the decoupage technique.

It should be noted that mastery of the two-step craquelure technique is one of the pinnacles of decorating skills. There is no complexity in the sequence of actions, but control of the quality and size of cracks, knowledge of the features of using various compositions will only come with time and experience.

Two-step craquelure: not so difficult

Make sure that the decorated surface is smooth (without roughness, for example, from painting with a sponge), if necessary, treat with fine sandpaper and cover with a layer of acrylic or alkyd varnish.

Apply step 1 (patina varnish or shellac depending on the chosen pair), let dry for 15 - 40 minutes. (depending on the composition).

Apply the 2nd step (craquelure varnish or gum arabic also depending on the chosen pair) with a soft brush or simply spread it in a circular motion with your hand, let it dry naturally or dry it with a hairdryer.

When the second varnish is completely dry, you will see a network of translucent cracks on the surface that still need to be developed. Take dry pigment, oil paint or bitumen (not water-based!) and rub it into the cracked varnish with your finger or a cloth swab. The choice of pigment also depends on the formulations used.

Wipe off excess pigment with a paper or cloth napkin.

Carefully rinse off step 2 with warm water without touching the surface with your hands. True, this stage is not mandatory and is required only in certain cases.

Protect the surface with a topcoat varnish. Important: if you did not wash off the 2nd step, then you cannot use water-based varnish.

As you can see, working with the two-step craquelure technique is not that difficult.

Now let's take a closer look at several of the most common pairs of compositions for two-step craquelure.

Patinating varnish No. 753 + Craquelure varnish No. 754 IDEA DECOUPAGE from Maimeri

Before working with these compounds, the surface must be primed with acrylic varnish so that the patina varnish is not absorbed (this is especially important for porous surfaces such as wood, cardboard and plaster).

Step 1. Patination agent (No. 753) - a white liquid that becomes completely transparent after drying. After application, dry for 45 minutes, but this varnish does not dry completely, but remains slightly sticky.

Step 2. Craquelure varnish (No. 754) - a jelly-like, slightly yellowish, water-based composition. Apply with a soft brush or fingers. Make sure that the entire surface is covered with varnish, without gaps or gaps. Otherwise, when cracks appear, dirty spots will result.

Leave until completely dry. To speed up the process, you can use a hair dryer. Dry pigments, metal powders or pastels are well suited for developing cracks.

They will adhere perfectly to the sticky base of the patina varnish. If you do not want to wash off the craquelure varnish after the cracks appear, then for protection use a topcoat varnish based on organic solvents (alkyd) or aerosol. These compounds produce a small, branchy network of cracks and do not turn yellow, which is an advantage when working on white surfaces.

If you want to get the lightest possible background and use water-based varnish for protection, be sure to wash off step 2!

Patination varnish No. 678 + Craquelure varnish No. 688, Maimeri

Available in 75 ml and 250 ml packages, they are part of the line of painting aids.

Step 1. Patination varnish (No. 678) - a viscous dark liquid based on organic solvents. Apply evenly with a brush and dry until slightly tacky (from 1 to 6 hours).

Step 2. Craquelure varnish (No. 688) - a yellowish, water-based, medium-thick composition. Apply with a soft brush or fingers. Leave until completely dry or dry with a hairdryer. You can rub both dry pigments and oil paint or bitumen into the cracks. Wash off the top layer of craquelure varnish with warm water (for an antique effect, you don’t have to wash it off).

To secure and protect, you can use acrylic varnish or patina varnish (step 1). When working with this pair of two-step craquelure, it is important: do not dry the 1st step completely, some stickiness should remain; Step 2: Apply evenly without streaks or gaps.

To obtain larger cracks, Step 1 can be applied in two layers. This pair turns very yellow, which must be taken into account when working with light-colored surfaces. The cracks are quite expressive.

Liquid shellac (purified) + gum arabic Ferrario (Italy)

Step 1. Shellac (alcohol varnish) is a quick-drying amber-colored liquid. It is better to apply at least three layers. Dry the first two layers completely for 15-20 minutes. Do not allow the third layer to dry completely so that it remains a little sticky.

Step 2. Gum arabic is a thick, slightly yellowish, water-based composition. Can be applied with a brush, sponge or hands. Leave to dry naturally or blow dry.

You can reveal cracks by rubbing in oil paint or bitumen (not water-based). Dry pigments are not suitable here. Gum arabic is also carefully washed off with warm water or fixed with alcohol varnish (step 1).

If you do not wash off gum arabic, do not use water-based varnishes under any circumstances. They dissolve gum arabic, turning it into a paste, and lubricate the pattern of cracks! This pair also practically does not turn yellow and produces very thin and graceful cracks. You can also use purified shellac varnish from other manufacturers (for example, Maimeri) with gum arabic.

The size and type of cracks are influenced by many factors. Even with the same compositions, you can get cracks of different sizes and depths. This depends on the thickness of the layer of both the 1st and 2nd steps, on the method of application, temperature and drying time of the 2nd step.

Also, the process of crack formation can be affected by the level of humidity in the room, the presence of drafts, and the quality of the prepared surface (the preliminary decor must be well dried and covered with acrylic varnish).

As you gain experience, you will probably find your favorite composition and way of working with it. But try to remember well all the conditions and nuances of working on two-step craquelure (first, you should write everything down), so that when you get the desired cracks, you can repeat the result.

Video materials on the topic of the article

Master class on how to decorate a watch:

How to make colored craquelure:

How to work with craquelure:

Master class on using two-step craquelure: