Names of stitches and seams. Hand stitches: types and patterns

Machine seams are divided into connecting, edge and finishing seams. In turn, each of these main types of machine seams has its own classification. For example, a connecting seam can be a topstitch, an overstitch, an overlay, etc.
If you need to know how to perform a particular type of seam for labor lessons, or simply need a table of machine seams for self-development, then you can use the information in this article.
Please note that machine stitching and machine stitching are different concepts. A machine seam implies a method of joining or processing the edge of a fabric, and a machine stitch is a method, a pattern for forming a stitch with a sewing machine.

Connecting machine seams

Stitch seam

This machine seam is used when connecting shoulder and side sections, connecting a bodice with a skirt, sewing down sleeve sections, as well as when sewing a sleeve into an armhole, etc.
The parts are folded right sides together, basted and stitched, stepping back from the cut to the width of the seam.

To make a reverse seam, the parts need to be folded with the wrong sides, aligning the cuts, and stitched at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm from the cut (A). Then bend the parts along the seam line, turning them face to face and stitch a second time, retreating from the edge 0.5-0.7 cm (B). In this case, the allowances of the first seam are closed inside the second.

This machine seam is used for sewing underwear, men's shirts, sportswear and workwear. It is performed as follows.

Fold the parts right sides together, skipping the bottom cut 0.5 cm from the cut of the top piece (A). Straighten the seam, bend the larger seam allowance around the smaller seam, turn the seam towards the smaller seam allowance, and stitch at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold of the seam allowance (B).

Edge seams

Overlock seam

A facing seam is a type of stitching seam and is used to connect such parts of a product, as a result of turning them out, the seam will be located along their edge, and its reserves inside, between the parts (collar with a collar, sides with edging, neck with facing, etc.)

The parts are folded with the right sides inward and joined with a stitch seam. Then the parts are turned right side out, the seams are straightened and swept out to form a transition edge, which makes the seam invisible from the outside. The transition edge is formed by the upper part, which moves to the lower side by 0.1-0.2 cm.

In cases where the overcast seam is made without a transition edge, after joining the parts with a stitch, it is recommended to turn them inside out, iron the seam allowances, and then fold the parts again with the wrong side inward along the machine stitch and finally iron them.

When turning edges and processing collars made of non-fraying fabric, the width of a regular seam is 0.3-0-5cm. From crumbling fabric - 0.4-0.7 cm.

Machine hem stitch with closed hem

A hem seam with an open cut is used for hemming the bottom of the product and sleeves in products made from raincoat and cotton fabrics, as well as in the manufacture of linen (A).

The trimmed edge of the product is folded to the wrong side by 0.7-1 cm, ironed, after which the entire allowance for the hem is folded to the wrong side and secured with machine stitching at the very fold. The width of the external hem of the seam is determined by the purpose of the product and is taken within 1.5-5 cm.

A variation of this machine seam is the “Moscow seam” (B) - stitching the edge of the part with a double machine stitch. This seam makes it possible to obtain a narrow hem (hem) and is used mainly when hemming flounces, frills, and heavily flared hems of dresses.

Hem seam with open cut

A hem seam with an open cut (half-Moscow seam) is used when processing the inner edges of hems and all kinds of facings (necks, armholes, sleeves, etc.). The seam allowance (0.75 cm) is folded to the wrong side and stitched at a distance of 0.2 cm from the fold (see above - B).

When processing the edges of flounces, ruffles, frills, the seam is made with a zigzag stitch 0.15-0.25 cm wide, laying it along the fold, and the excess fabric is cut off right up to the stitch (see above - B).

This machine seam is sometimes called “Hong Kong” (A) and is used to process sections of parts, which are subsequently customized to other parts (yokes, bodice, patch pockets, etc.). In addition, this seam is used to process the edges of items made of dense fabrics (the edge of the hem, the edge of the hem of a coat).

We cut out a strip of fabric 2.5 cm wide (triple the width of the edging plus 1.5 cm) at an angle of 45 degrees to the direction of the warp thread (lobe).
Apply the facing to the section of the product being processed, aligning the front sides, grind it, wrap the section of the product with the facing, baste it and stitch it from the front side into the stitching seam.
We process the open cut of the hem of a coat or skirt made of thick fabric with an edge seam (from lining fabric) and hem it to the product manually for each stitch of machine stitching.

Closed-cut edge stitch

This machine seam is often called “rulik” (see diagram above - B). It is performed in the same way as with an open cut, only the facing is cut twice as wide (5cm).

Edge seam with braid

The edge stitch with braid is the same as the closed-cut seam, but instead of a strip of fabric, ready-made braid (bias tape) is used. The tape is wrapped around the cut being processed, basted and machine stitched, capturing both edges of the bias tape.

Types of seams and their application

A seam is the joining of two or more layers of fabric by hand or machine stitching in a certain position.

There are many different types of seams, and each of them has its own purpose. The parts of the product are swept away with one seam, with another - they are firmly connected, with a third - the bottom of the product is hemmed, etc.

All seams, according to the method of their execution, are divided into two groups - manual and machine. Some work can only be done manually, for example, basting, laying copy stitches - snares, etc., others can be done either by machine or by hand.

Let's look at the types and uses of hand stitches.

Padding seam (Fig. 11). Performed with regular stitches. The needle is inserted from right to left, the thread is tensioned evenly. The distance between the stitches and their length are 2-3 millimeters

Rice. 11. Interlining seam.

The spacer stitch is used to mark the middle of the product and lines corrected with pins during fitting, as well as for making gathers.

Copy stitches - snares

Copy stitches - snares are used to transfer lines to identical, paired parts after cutting a product or to transfer symmetrical lines changed during fitting from the right side to the left.

Snare stitches are a type of slip stitch. The needle is injected from right to left. The length of the stitches and the distance between them should not exceed 0.5 centimeters. However, the stitches are not tightened, but left in the form of a loop 1-1.5 centimeters long (Fig. 12a).

Rice. 12a. Copy stitches (snares).

The snares are laid with a double thread having a length of no more than 90 centimeters. Threads used for this purpose must be soft, non-mercerized.

Rice. 12b. Copy stitches (snares).

After applying the snare, the parts are moved apart, the threads between the parts are pulled and cut (Fig. 126). In this way, the same pattern outline is obtained on the right and left sides of the product.

Running stitch (Fig. 13). It is used in all cases of temporary fastening of parts together to prepare the product for fitting or ironing.

Rice. 13. Running stitch.

Stitches are performed from right to left at intervals, combining short stitches with long ones. The length of the running seam depends on its purpose and the density of the fabric.

Overlock stitch (Fig. 14). Used to permanently secure and seal the cut edge to prevent fabric from fraying. The stitches are kept small. The needle is inserted from right to left over the edge.

Rice. 14. Overlock stitch.

Blind seam. Used to secure the folded edges of the fabric at the bottom of a blouse, skirt, dress, jacket, sleeve, etc.

When making a blind seam, the needle is inserted from right to left, grabbing no more than one thread of the upper fabric, and then grabbing the edge of the top fold of the hem. The thread is not stretched too much (Fig. 15a).

Rice. 15a. Blind seam.

The blind seam is made with silk thread of the same color as the main fabric. On thick fabrics, the hem can be cut with toes and hemmed with a hidden seam (Fig. 15b).

Rice. 15b. Blind seam.

Loop stitch

Loop stitch. It is mainly used for sewing buttonholes and seams on loose fabrics.

The loops are made as follows.

A thick thread is laid around the frame (slot) and then sewn with a buttonhole stitch. To do this, the thread is placed in a loop around the needle or the thread loop is grabbed with the needle after it comes out of the fabric. The stitches should be small and densely spaced.

At the beginning and at the end of the loop, tacks are made by laying 2-3 longitudinal threads, and then wrapping them closely in lobe turns so that 10-20 turns are obtained in 1 centimeter (Fig. 16a).

One of the simplest types of needlework is embroidery. An ornamental line or a beautiful pattern will decorate any thing: a dress, blouse, bag, napkin, tablecloth or pillow.

Finishing seams

Seam "forward with a needle"(Fig. 1) is the simplest. It is used to simulate and outline the contours of a drawing. The needle and thread are passed into the fabric from right to left, all the time forward, picking up one or more stitches. This stitch is used to embroider patterns on blouses, napkins, and bags.

Stitch seam(Fig. 2) resembles a machine stitch. On the front side the stitches are adjacent one to one, and on the reverse side the stitch length is equal to two stitches on the front side.

Stem seam(Fig. 3) are performed from left to right. The point of the needle is always directed to the left, and each new stitch begins by stepping back, i.e. right. On the front side the stitches go one after another, and on the reverse side they create a line. The contours of the design (for example, stems, flowers, leaves) are embroidered with a stem stitch and marks are made on the linen.

Loop or slip stitch(Fig. 4), used for binding loops, hemming edges, and embroidering. The seam is made from left to right. The thread is always in front of the needle, making a loop. Depending on the width, height and direction of the stitches, you can complicate the seam by twisting.

Chain or chain stitch(Fig. 5), is a series of loops that come out one from the other, resembling a crocheted chain on the front side, and a machine stitch on the reverse side. It is performed from top to bottom or from right to left, securing the loop with one or more small stitches. The tambour loop can be of different shapes, and this makes it possible to create many patterns. Leaves and flower petals are embroidered with this stitch.

Herringbone seam(Fig. 6) resembles a buttonhole stitch or an open chain stitch. It is used for finishing products. There are many variations of this seam.

Goat or cross stitch(Fig. 7), perform from left to right. You can use a goat stitch to decorate clothes and linens, hem the hem of a dress or skirt, or connect the edges of two fabrics.

Verkhoshov "verkhoplut" or Vladimir seam(Fig. 8), performed with long stitches. Very thick threads (mostly red) are often used.

Stitches are placed from the center of the pattern to the edges and back. On the front side of the fabric we get the main pattern, and on the reverse side we get an outline with small stitches. This stitch is used to embroider flowers and leaves, various figures, decorating clothes and household items.

Cross stitch

Half-cross or painted seam(Fig. 9) - a double-sided seam, which is performed in two stages - forward and backward. First, stitches are laid along the contour of the pattern from left to right "needle forward", and then from right to left fill the gaps from the previous row.

You can embroider with a cross on linen-bound fabrics, on canvas or along contours marked with dots. Cross stitch or cross stitch(Fig. 10), consists of two crossed stitches. Stitches are placed from left to right first, and overlapped from right to left.

Cross stitch patterns are shown in Fig. 11.

The double or Bulgarian cross (Fig. 12) is made with four straight stitches - two diagonal and two mutually perpendicular. First, a simple cross is embroidered, then a vertical stitch is made, and it is covered with horizontal stitches from left to right.

The edges of two canvases can be connected in several ways, as shown in Fig. 13.

Embroidery with beads, bugles, beads, artificial pearls

Beads, bugles, beads and artificial pearls can be used to decorate an evening dress, handbag, wallet, etc. For the base we recommend velvet, satin, silk, woolen and cloth fabrics, linen with lavsan.

Threads for embroidery must be strong, “waxed” (coated with wax) so that beads or glass beads do not fray them, and matched to the color of the fabric. For work, use round or faceted beads, single or multi-colored - depending on the pattern. You can also use glass beads and glitter.

They embroider according to a design applied to the fabric or along a canvas, which is then drawn out. Each bead is sewn to the fabric along the contour of the pattern. The beads are sewn end to end or at some distance. You can also lay out a thread with beads strung along the contour and attach it to the fabric with another thread, sticking a needle into the spaces between the beads.

For embroidery with beads, you can use cross stitch patterns: each sewn bead will correspond to a cross on the pattern. Sew the beads using half-cross stitches, slanted in one direction (so that the beads lie flat).

It is better to embroider with glass beads using the top stitch.

Figure 14 shows patterns for embroidering a wallet or handbag. The petals can be embroidered with white and pink beads or bugles, the centers with yellow and green stems.

In order to learn how to sew beautifully and competently, we need to carefully study the topic of “hand stitches and seams.” This is the basis of sewing skills, the secrets of which I will share with you on the pages of my blog!

In this article we will get acquainted with hand stitches - where they are used and how they are performed. And to begin with, I’ll tell you what a stitch is and what a seam is.

Stitch- this is a completed cycle of weaving threads between two needle punctures.

Line- a sequential row of stitches.

So, let's look at the types of hand stitches and their applications:

Running stitch– serves for temporary fastening of product parts. The stitch length is from 0.7 to 2.5 cm, depending on the type of fabric and type of work. The distance between stitches is 0.2 - 0.5 cm. That is, on the front side we see stitches of 0.7-2.5 cm, and on the back side of 0.2-0.5 cm.

Basting stitch– used to attach one part to another. For example: we baste a pocket to an apron. The stitch length is 1.5-3 cm. The finer the details, the finer the stitches.

Note stitch– used to fasten the folded edge of the product. Stitch length is 1-3 cm, depending on the structure of the fabric. We sweep “unruly” fabrics more carefully and make short and frequent stitches. For thick and dense fabrics, increase the stitch length.

Basting stitch– used for fastening parts that have been previously turned and turned inside with a seam. The stitch length is 1-2 cm. We also take into account the type of fabric. The thicker the fabric, the larger the stitch.

Copy seam– necessary for transferring marked lines to a symmetrical part. We baste two parts along the line requiring transfer, without tightening the stitches. They should look like loops on the front side. Then we move the parts apart and cut the threads between them. This way, we will have threads sticking out on both parts, along which we can safely draw chalk lines. Stitch length 1 - 2 cm, loop height 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Slant basting stitch– serves for temporary fastening of parts during basting with landing. For example, for fastening the upper collar to the lower one or valve parts. In the corners of these parts it is necessary to make a small fit from the top part. A bias stitch basting stitch will hold the fit very well. The fabric will not “shift” or warp. Stitch length 0.7 - 2 cm. Stitch width 0.4 - 0.6 cm.

Slant stitch basting stitch– used for fastening parts that have been previously turned and turned inside with a seam. And it is used in cases where we need to form an edging, a frame, or secure split seams. This seam is used when processing the edge of the side, lapels, collars and pockets. Stitch length 0.7 - 1 cm. Stitch width 0.5 - 0.7 cm.

Overcast bias stitch– used to secure the edges of the part and prevent threads from spilling out. It can completely replace the overlock stitch. Stitch length 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Stitch width 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Hemming stitch– used to permanently secure the folded edges of the product. To secure the bottom of the sleeve, the bottom of the product. For attaching internal sections of beads. The stitch length for securing the folded edges of the product is 0.3 - 0.4 cm, for hemming the hem 1 - 1.5 cm. The stitch width in seams with an open cut is 0.2 - 0.3 cm, with a closed (folded) cut 0. 1 cm. Seam width for hemming 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Overlock cross stitch– used for hemming collar flaps, bottoms of women’s coats, dresses, trousers made of easily fraying fabrics. The so-called “goat” :) Performed from left to right. Stitch length 0.5 - 0.9 cm. Stitch width 0.5 - 0.7 cm.

Marking loop stitch– serves for permanent fastening of several layers of fabric, in places where it is necessary to create a strong elastic connection (for marking armholes, sewing shoulder pads...) Stitch length is 1 - 1.5 cm. We make stitches from left to right. In another way it is called a “back needle” seam.

Loop stitch– used for permanent connection of parts, in places where it is impossible to machine stitch. The seam is similar to a loop-shaped marking seam, only we place the stitches close to one another. On the front side the seam is similar to machine stitching. Stitch length on the front side is 0.2 - 0.3 cm.

Hemming loop stitch– used to permanently secure folded edges with a closed cut. And serves for hemming linings and patch pockets. It is practically invisible from the front side. Stitch length 0.3 - 0.4 cm. Stitch width 0.05 - 0.1 cm.

Seam securing stitches- used to secure the ends of stitches for manual work, such as sewing on buttons, hooks, buttons. And also for making fastenings at the ends of loops, pockets, etc. Stitch length 0.3 - 0.4 cm.

Quilting stitch- constant. It is used for fastening the main and interfacing fabrics, for example, for quilting the lapel of a men's jacket. Nowadays it is used extremely rarely, since cushioning materials are produced mainly on an adhesive basis. Stitch length 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Stitch width 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Fur stitch- used for permanent fastening and finishing the edges of jacket or jacket parts: sides and collar. Stitch length 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Friends, these are the basic hand stitches that are used to make garments! To consolidate the theory, I suggest you perform each seam on a small separate piece of fabric. If you have any questions, ask them in the comments or . And then move on to getting acquainted with.

© Olga Marizina

Machine seams.

Connecting.

The following requirements apply to seams made on a sewing machine:

Machine stitches must be even;
- the width of the seam should be even (the same);
- stitches must be uniform in frequency;
- the tightening density of the stitches should be the same, the interlacing of threads should be between layers of material;
- the lines must be solid, without breaks;
- there should be no waviness of the material along the seam line;
- the seam must be strong (in this case, the threads you use play an important role);
- place seam allowances to the right of the needle, and place the main parts to the left.

Connecting machine seams

The seams that connect parts of a product made of all types of fabrics are called connecting. The seam is made with a straight two-thread stitch. The details of the product lie on both sides of the seam.

Connecting seams include: stitching, invoice, stitching, butt, sewing, double seams.

Connecting seams are used to sew down shoulder, side, and sleeve sections; in trousers, side, step, and middle sections are connected, etc.

Stitch seam

We fold the parts with the right sides inward, align the cuts and baste or pin them across the chalk line;
- Sew the edges with a straight stitch. Be sure to backtack at the beginning and end of the stitching. The width of the fabric seam allowance is from 0.5 to 1.5-2 cm;
- We sew the cuts. If the seam is pressed, then overcast both sections at the same time. If the seam is pressed, then we sew each section separately;
- We remove the basting thread and perform a wet-heat treatment of the stitched seam, pressed (Fig. 3) or open-ironed (Fig. 2), or the seam is left on the “edge” (Fig. 0).

Overlay seam

Overlay seams can be made with an open cut or a closed cut.

Overlay seam with open cut(Fig. 4.) is performed by overlapping the cuts with 1.5-2 cm overlapping each other. We lay the line parallel to the cuts of the parts.

Another type of overlay seam with open cut(Fig. 5.) is done like this:

A part with a folded and ironed edge is placed, combining the cuts, on the front side of another part and basted;
- The machine stitch is laid parallel to the folded cut of the part. The seam allowances remain open. In this way you can connect the yoke to the lower part of the back.

Overlay seam with closed cut(Fig. 6) is performed as follows:

We bend the cut of one of the parts towards the wrong side by 1-1.5 cm and iron it;
- Place the ironed edge of the part on another part and baste;
- We machine stitch, retreating from the ironed edge by 0.1-1 cm, that is, depending on the model. The seam allowance cut of part (a) is covered by both parts.

Adjustment stitch

Adjustment seams can be made with open and with one closed cut.

Adjustment stitch with open cuts(Fig. 7) is done like this:

We fold the parts with the right side inward and lay a seam stitch (1) along the wrong side of the parts;
- We bend the part (a) and lay a second line (2) along the front side of the part, parallel to the folded edge. The seam allowance cuts of both pieces remain open.

An adjustment seam with one closed cut (Fig. 8) is performed as follows:

We fold the parts with the right side inward and lay a seam stitch along the wrong side of the parts;
- We bend the part (a) and lay a second line along the front side, parallel to the folded edge of the part. The seam allowance cut of part (a) is closed with a second stitch.

Butt seam

Butt seam with closed sections on one side with a strip of fabric(Fig. 9) or braid done like this:

Two parts (b and c) are placed on the lower part or braid (a), aligning the cuts of both parts end-to-end. The joining line is located in the middle of the lower part or braid (a);
- Parts (b and c) are sewn onto the lower part or braid using one zigzag stitch (1). You can stitch with two parallel lines (1 and 2) (Fig. 10 a).
- In order for the connection to be strong, you can use two strips of fabric or braid, placing them under the joining line and above the joining line. In this case, the processed sections will be closed on both sides (Fig. 10 b).

Butt seam can be manufactured belt loops(Figure 10c). It is more convenient to cut out a long strip of fabric for making belt loops, make one long blank of belt loops, and then cut the required number of belt loops of the required length.

We sew the sections of the belt loops using an overlocker or a zigzag stitch;
- Bend the sections of the belt loop to the wrong side and lay two parallel machine lines;
- Iron the belt loops.

In products made from cotton fabrics, belt loops can be made in a different way (Fig. 10 d).

We overlock one longitudinal section of the belt loop;
- Using the overcast section of the belt loop, we overlap the unovercast section and make two machine stitches. In this case, the distance from the folded edges to the lines is 0.3 cm;
- Iron the belt loops.

Covering seam

Covering seam(Fig. 12) is mainly used for making bed linen.

We fold the two parts with their right sides inward, extend the cut of the lower part (b) to the value of the finished seam width of 0.6-0.7 cm and add another 0.2 cm. We bend the lower part (b) around the cut of the upper part (a) and we lay a stitching line at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the cut;
- We lay out the parts in different directions, bend the seam to the side, close the smaller cut, lay a second line at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the folded edge.

When cutting parts, please note that the seam allowance for the upper part is equal to the width of the finished seam (0.6-0.7 cm). On the side of the bottom part - double the width of the finished seam (1.2-1.4 cm) and add 0.2 - 0.3 cm.

Edge and finishing.

Edge seams

Edge seams are used to process the edges of various parts. The parts in this case lie on one side of the seam (edge ​​seams are used to process the bottom of the sleeves, the bottom of any product, flounces, jabots, molds, frills, etc.).

Hem seam with open cut(Fig. 13) is done like this:

We pre-sew the cut of the part, bend it on the wrong side by 0.5–0.7 cm and sweep it;
- We place the machine stitch at a certain distance from the edge, depending on the model;
- If the machine stitch (hemming) should not be visible from the front side of the model, then we hem the seam allowance using hand blind stitches;
- We iron the seam.

Closed hem seam done like this (Fig. 14):

The section of the part to be processed is folded on the wrong side by 0.7 - 1.0 cm, and we sweep it;
- Iron the folded edge without catching the tacking stitch;
- Then we place the folded edge on the part, according to the amount of allowance provided for by the model, and machine stitch it or hand-hemm it with blind stitches;
- Remove the basting threads;
- Let's iron it.

Overcast seam in piping

Overcast seam in edging(Fig. 15) process cuffs, collars, valves, straps, edges of the side. We form the edging from a part located on the front side of the product so that the other part and seam are not visible.

We make the seam as follows:

We fold the two parts with the right sides inward, align the cuts and grind (line 1). Seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm for light clothing, 0.3-0.4 cm for outerwear;
- Carefully trim the seam allowance in the corners; in curved areas, cut or cut out the seam allowance, not reaching the turning line by 0.1-0.3 mm;
- Turn the product part right side out, carefully straighten the corners;
- We straighten the edge. The edge size is 0.1-0.2 mm. We sew out the piping;
- Iron the part carefully with slight moisture;
- Remove the basting threads;
- Iron the part again;
- You can lay an embossing stitch (2), bending the seam allowance towards the part that will not be visible from the front side of the product;
- If a finishing stitch is provided, then we lay it along the front side of the part. In this case, there is no need to lay a stitching line. The finishing stitch can be laid at a distance of 0.1-2 cm from the edge, depending on the model.

Simple overcast stitch in frame

A seam is used (Fig. 16) to process facing loops and welt pockets. The width of the frame is 0.3-0.5 cm. The seam is made with one line.

We bend the part from which the frame will be made in half, with the wrong side inward, and iron it;
- We mark with chalk or soap along the front side the line for stitching the frame, we also mark the transverse lines, from the beginning to the end of which the machine stitch will be laid;
- We apply the facing side to the front side of the main part, baste and stitch with a seam 0.5-0.7 cm wide from the edge. We fix the beginning and end of the line;
- Iron the stitching seam. Then we bend the part near the line and iron it again.

Edge stitch

An edge stitch with closed cuts is used (Fig. 17) to finish the edges of parts in light women's and children's clothing (ruffles, frills, hems).

Ready-made bias tape for edging cuts can be purchased at the store.

We bend the finished bias tape lengthwise and iron it;
- We put the edge of the workpiece between the sides of the binding and baste it;
- We adjust the binding with a machine stitch at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge.

You can make your own bias tape.

To do this, you need to cut out a strip of fabric 3-4 cm wide, at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp threads;
- We fold the cut strip of fabric inside out and iron it;
- Place the ironed strip on the front side of the part to which the strip will be stitched, and align the cuts. We grind the binding (Fig. 18 a) at a distance of 0.3-0.5 cm;
- We bend around the seam sections and lay another line along the front side (Fig. 18 b) at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge;
- We iron the edging.

Finishing seams

Finishing seams are used for finishing various products. Finishing seams include folds, raised seams, seams with piping.

Raised seams

Relief seams include stitching, tucked, stitching with cord, raised relief seams.

Topstitch seams(Fig. 19) are performed on the front or back side of the part. Basically, this type of seam is used to sew folds on products. The distance from the fold line to the line is 0.1-0.2 cm.

Stitched seam with cord(Fig. 20) is used for finishing light women's clothing and coats. To make a seam you need a special foot with a groove in the sole.

A strip of the main fabric is placed on the inside of the part and the first machine stitch is made from the front side along the pre-marked line;
- Place a cord between the layers of fabric and lay a second line.

Adjustment difficult We perform the seam (Fig. 24 c) as follows:

On the front side of the part we mark a seam line;
- Place a strip of fabric on the inside of the piece. The middle of the strip should coincide with the intended line. On the front side, along the marked line, we sew a strip of fabric (Fig. 24 a);
- We bend the part along the seam of the stitching strip with the front side inward, bend it in one direction, and the stitched strip in the other direction;
- On the front side of the part we outline a stitching line;
- Place the second line at a distance of 1-2 mm from the fold. We reduce the line at the end to nothing. In this case, a relief is formed on the front side (Fig. 24 b);
- To secure a strip of fabric, bend it to one side of the part and lay a stitch along the front side of the main part according to the model (Fig. 24 c).

Simple folds

Simple folds can be finishing, which in turn can be one-sided or two-sided.

The fabric in simple folds is folded in a straight line or with a slight bend. Simple finishing folds are made from one piece.

IN simple finishing one-sided fold the folds of the fabric are directed in one direction on the front side and in the other direction on the wrong side of the part (Fig. 25 b). The fabric allowance when cutting is equal to twice the depth of the fold. (If the finished fold is 3 cm, then the allowance is 6 cm).

On the wrong side of the part we mark a fold with three lines:
The lateral line is the line of the outer fold of the fold;
The midline is the inner fold line;

- We lay a stitching line up to the third line, limiting the length of stitching of the fold. We secure the end of the line (Fig. 25 a);

- Iron the folds;
- You can put a finishing stitch on the front side;
- Remove the basting thread from the unstitched area of ​​the fold.

Can be counter, while the folds of the fabric are directed towards each other (Fig. 26).

Allowance for depth of each oncoming fold is equal to the depth of one fold fold multiplied by 4. For example, the depth of one fold is 4 cm, then the allowance is 16 cm.

We mark the counter folds on the wrong side with three lines:
midline,
the third line is the line limiting the end of the fold.
- We bend the part along the middle line with the front side inward and sweep it along the side line;
- We lay a stitching line up to the third line. Fasten the end of the line;
- Remove the basting thread from the stitched area;
- Place the piece face down, place the fold allowance on both sides of the stitching line. The middle line must be located along the stitching seam;
- Along the upper cut we fasten the folded fold across it with a machine stitch;
- Iron the folds;

Simple finishing double-sided folds can be bow(Fig. 27), when the folds of the fabric on the front side are directed in opposite directions. Bow pleat represents the wrong side of the counter fold. The allowance for the depth of each bow fold is equal to the depth of one fold fold multiplied by 4. For example, the depth of one fold is 5 cm, then the allowance is 20 cm.

We mark the bow folds along the front side with three lines:
midline,
lateral line - line of external folds,
the third line is the line limiting the end of the fold.
- We bend the part along the middle line with the wrong side inward and sweep it along the side line;
- We sew a stitching line up to the third line, limiting the length of stitching of the fold. Fasten the end of the line;
- In the stitching area, remove the basting threads;
- Remove the basting thread from the stitched area;
- Place the part wrong side down, place the fold allowance on both sides of the stitching line. The middle line must be located along the stitching seam;
- Along the upper cut we fasten the folded fold across it with a machine stitch;
- Iron the folds;
- You can lay a finishing stitch along the front side, including one that secures folds along the width.

Overlay seam with edging(Fig. 29 b) is done like this:

We cut out a strip of fabric to make the edging;
- Fold in half, inside out, and iron;
- On the front side of the lower part we apply a strip folded in half and stitch it at a distance from the fold equal to the width of the edging plus the stitching width (Fig. 29 a);
- On the top piece, iron the hem allowance to the wrong side;
- Place the top piece face up, overlapping the ironed edge with the edging allowance, and adjust. Set the distance from the ironed edge to the stitching to 0.1 cm as desired (Fig. 29 b);
- Iron the seam from the wrong side.