Making a supata fastener with your own hands, how to make a hidden fastener, sewing master class. DIY clasp for a bracelet made of cord and beads

16.03.2016 04:30

Assembling jewelry on a jewelry cable is possible not only for bracelets and necklaces, but also for earrings. In this article we will tell you how to make a jewelry cable clasp.

First, let's string beads and any accessories for jewelry, from which we assemble the decoration. It is best to string beads and any other decor directly on a reel with a cable, without cutting it off. This will be very convenient for work, since during the making of the clasp the beads will not roll off the cable.

Methods for attaching a clasp to a jewelry cable.

Method 1: suitable for light jewelry with small beads: make one crimp with each outside beads or decor.

Let's pass the end of the cable through the crimp. Let's pass it through the crimp again and form a loop. The size of the loop depends on the idea of decoration, it can be approximately 1.5-3mm. Make sure that the end of the cable remains at least 2 cm.

Using a crimper we will crimp the crimp, how to do it. When compressing, make sure that the cable does not twist and that the two strings are positioned straight, as in the picture above. Since the hole is in our glass beads large enough, we will attach a masking bead to the crimp.

We move the beads so that the end of the cable goes inside. One part of the decoration is ready. Using the same principle, we will make the second end of the fastener. Here we immediately thread the end of the cable through the holes of two beads.

We begin to tighten the loop. Make this easier by using BeadSmith pliers, pulling up the main end of the beaded cable and tightening the free end of the cable with needle nose pliers. During this process, make sure that the end of the cable at the first part of the fastener does not jump out of the holes of the beads.

When the loop is almost tightened, be sure to check that the final result remains flexible. The cable should not be over-tightened, otherwise the decoration will not puff up nicely.
To do this, bend the beads with the cable as if it were bending when fastened. Since in this article we are making a bracelet, let’s bring the first part of the clasp to the second and check the flexibility of the jewelry and beads. If necessary, loosen the cable loop.
We also take into account that if a masking bead is put on the crimp, we need to leave room for it on the cable.

We crimp the crimp, do not forget to make sure that the ends of the cable do not twist. Clamp the masking bead.

Using wire cutters, cut off the excess end of the cable as close to the beads as possible.

The jewelry cable clasp is ready.

Left attach the lock. We recommend attaching a carabiner lock or toggle to the cable on double connecting ring, read about this below about fastening with one-piece parts. Or very precisely connect the sides of a regular split ring, since the cable is very thin, it can slip out if the ring is even slightly open.

If you plan to attach a cable with permanent parts, for example, to a double ring, or to rings in a magnetic lock, etc., then you need to immediately place such a part in the loop of the cable. And only after that compress the crimp.
To do this, we will put a crimp on the cable, then we will thread a one-piece part, and again we will thread the end of the cable through the crimp. Thus, the one-piece part ended up in the cable loop. Now you can crimp the crimp and secure the clamp bead.

Method 2: best for heavy jewelry - necklaces, or bracelets with large beads. In this method, the fastener is held firmly in place by two crimps. This method of fastening will be the most reliable.

We string beads onto the cable, thread the crimp, then put on the last bead and another crimp. Pass the end of the cable through the first crimp and tighten the loop.

We crimp the first crimp (we will move the beads and another crimp so that they do not interfere)

Let's move the last bead and crimp the second crimp. We check that the crimps are pressed in one direction.

The cable clasp is ready.

Cable fastener options.

1 With accessories for jewelry - cable protection.
To prevent the cable from fraying, special protection for the cable is sometimes used. To do this, put a crimp on the cable, then pass the cable through the holes in the protection and thread it into the crimp again. Let's tighten the loop on the guard and crimp the crimp as close to the guard as possible. With cable protection, it is better to use crimps with a size of at least 3mm.

2 With callots for jewelry.
You can also use special callots to attach the clasp to the lock. To do this, put a callot on the cable, then a crimp, thread the cable through the crimp, making a loop - make the loop as small as possible so that it closes with the callot. Let's squeeze the crimp. We close the callot and get the end of the clasp with a ring, and the crimp itself will be neatly closed with the callot.

You can make an infinite number of very interesting things using a jewelry cable. various decorations, the entire emphasis with such an assembly will be on beads and decor.

Of course, it is very troublesome to unbutton and fasten so many small buttons, so along with such a fastener, a zipper is often installed in the side seam of the dress.

How to make an even row of loops of the same size? And how to make a thin, round and dense roll? Let's consider one of the methods.

Making rolls

Step 1

We cut out strictly at 45 degrees to the lobar long stripes 3 cm wide. It is best to do this with a circular knife on a rug with markings.

Step 2

Fold the strip in half lengthwise, facing inward, and sew a fine stitch 3 mm from the fold. The strip should be slightly stretched under the foot. At the beginning of the stitch you need to make a funnel to make it easier to turn out. Trim seam allowances to 6 mm from the stitching.

In order for the roll to be tight, it is necessary that from the fold to the cuts there be three times the width of the roll, no less!

If the fabric is slippery, then you can turn the roll even with a larger allowance width. The ends of the stitch threads are not cut off, but inserted into an embroidery needle and tied well.
There are special decker needles for turning, but they are difficult to turn out very thin rolls. They are more suitable for rollers with a width of 5 mm.

Step3

The needle is inserted into the funnel with its eye and pulled through the handle. The roll is turned out with tension, like a stocking. The harder it is to turn the steering wheel, the tighter it will be. In order for the roller to become smooth and round along its entire length, it needs to be wetted and pulled ironing board like a string and let it dry.

Step 4

Cut out a template from paper exactly according to the cut of the part at the fastener with the same allowances. Place the buttons in a row with the desired pitch and mark the loops between them.

Draw a button from the edge of the clasp and draw a line down the center of the button. This will be the edge of the loop. The loop should extend beyond the edge of the fastener by half the diameter of the button. If the roll is rough and not slippery, then you can add another 1 mm beyond this line to make the buttons easier to fasten.

Step 5

Pin the roll exactly according to the markings of the loops onto the paper template using thin silk pins.

Sew the roll onto the paper precisely according to the markings of the edge of the fastener.

Remove the pins and fold back the edge of the paper with an allowance. Check if the loops are straight.

Step 6

Place the template with loops on the front side of the part, align the allowances and sew the stitch along the previously laid stitch along the loops. Tear off the paper; it breaks easily along the line.

Trim the loop allowances along the edge of the piece and, using pressure and steam, iron the loop allowances well to flatten them. This way they will stand out less on the dress.

For the same purpose, so that the loops do not go through, glue the edge of the lining with a strip of non-woven fabric.

Step 7

Sew the lining along the fastening line exactly to the stitching line.

Unscrew the lining and stitch along the seam allowances 1 mm from the seam. This way the loops will be sewn on more firmly and the lining will not roll away.

Turn the lining inside out and iron it along the fastener. The loops are ready.

You can also use a ready-made satin roll if it matches the color and texture of the main fabric.

Covered buttons

How to do it quickly and accurately fitted buttons? Now on sale there are kits for covering buttons of different diameters and from different manufacturers.

The smallest ones are from PRYM - with a diameter of 11 mm. They can be bought at sewing supply stores. There are no instructions in Russian for these sets; there are pictures that can help you figure out the sequence.

Step 1

It is necessary to glue the fabric with thin adhesive or non-woven material! Otherwise, it will crumble along the edges and slide along the metal button.

Step 2

On the box there is a template for the blank that needs to be cut out.

We cut along it required quantity circles.

Step 3

Along the edge of the template you need to lay a line with small hand stitch, place a button in the center of the circle and tighten the stitching. Secure it with several cross stitches.

Step 4

And just now put a button in white template, place the latch piece on top and press it down with the blue template. Click! Ready!

These are the neat little buttons we ended up with.

Instead of buttons, you can use beads; they look great in a solid clasp, especially on wedding and lace dresses.

Step 5

All that remains is to mark them and sew them on the other side of the clasp.

And zip it up, of course.

View of the finished dress fastener with hinged loops and covered buttons.

Svetlana Khatskevich

Svetlana Graduated from a university with a degree in Sewing Technological Engineer. She has been teaching sewing technology for over 20 years. He is a senior teacher at the AcademyBurda." We know Svetlana from her work on the site since its inception. She generously shares her knowledge and infects with her love of sewing.
Sewing is creative, fun and educational. Welcome to this bright and interesting world!

This is the first part of a large master class on sewing dresses for prom. Stay tuned for more on

Hello. I decided to make a supata clasp on the blouse. I haven't done this before. Having searched on the Internet how to make a supata clasp, it turned out that it is very easy.

Fastener strips can be separate parts or one-piece. I chose the second option.

On the shelf pattern, a simple strip is laid on one side, and a double strip on the other.

The dotted line is the middle of the shelf.

First I add 1.5 cm - this will be the fold of the shelf (in the picture “edge”). Everything else does not go beyond the fold.

My blouse is collarless, so before making the closure, I joined the shoulder seams and finished the neckline with bias tape.

The neckline is finished with binding.

The binding begins and ends on the fold line of the shelves (in the drawing “edge”).

I simply bend the allowance of the planks.

On the other side

Processing a shelf with a double strip

I fold it on the wrong side and iron it along the second line from the cut, according to my calculations this is 4 cm.

I fold it again after 6 cm, this is the “edge” line.

I place a stitch in the middle of the folded strip.

I mark the location of the buttons and make loops on free side planks.

I turn over the free edge of the strap and iron it.

I connect the top stitch of the two parts of the strap, as a continuation of the top stitch of the neckline.

I mark the middle between the loops and lay the lines across the bar.

View from the reverse side.

After connecting side seams, I folded the bottom twice and stitched it.

Processing the side of the shelf with a button placket

I bend it to the wrong side of the cut 3 cm and iron it. Again I fold it to the wrong side 3 cm and iron it.

I stitch close to the edge of the strip.

Just like on the other side, by continuing the stitching of the neckline, I fasten the bar to the shelf.

I mark the location of the buttons and sew them on.

I also sew the bottom with a hem seam with a closed cut.

The clasp is ready.

Hello, dear readers of the blog “site”. Now we will learn how to do polo clasp. Basically this is an attribute sportswear and shirts, but dresses with such a fastener will look very unusual. Therefore, we must definitely learn how to make this fastener (this will help us detailed master Class).

On the front detail we mark the location of the polo fastener. Place seam allowances between the vertical lines, but do not cut them out.

We glue the polo clasp at the bottom, going beyond the vertical contour lines by 0.2 cm, and beyond the horizontal line by 0.5 cm.

Plank width in finished form equal to the distance between the drawn lines, when cutting = double the distance + 2 cm for allowances.

Duplicate the details of the strips if you sew from thick fabric, then duplicate only those parts of the planks that will be the front ones. Folding the planks wrong side inward, smooth and process with overlock or zig-zag.

We cut the front part along the line of the center of the bar, not reaching the corner of 1 cm.

We join both strips as they should ideally be on the product. We sweep the bottom of the joining of the planks together or simply securely pin them together with a pin:

Now we need to sew the corner with the allowances of both strips clearly along the intended horizontal line.

We outline the location of the loops, there should be an equal distance between the loops, and from top cut and the first loop on top should be 1.5 cm apart. Using a special machine foot, we make buttonholes on the top bar:

If desired, we make an edging stitch on the front side.

It turns out so beautifully:

All! Our polo clasp is ready. You also need to learn how to make a collar on a shirt. But we will look at this in the next article.

Before see you soon on the pages of the blog “Sheysomnoy.rf”! And good luck to you in everything!

Hello, dear mothers. I decided to create a separate article on sewing fasteners on buttons, buttons and zippers. So that every time you write another instruction for sewing a dress or jumpsuit, you don’t have to explain everything in a new way, but simply refer to one of the fasteners in this article.

Here you will find any fastener (that I found on children's clothing) - and detailed instructions how to make it yourself.

I will try to explain everything as clearly as possible and provide the article with clear and detailed step-by-step pictures.

I roughly divided the fasteners into 2 types:

1. One-piece fasteners. This is when the front or back pattern does not contain a fastener. In this case, an incision is made on the back or front part (already on the fabric itself) and a placket with buttons, snaps or a zipper is sewn into this incision.

Such fasteners are a lifesaver when you have already sewn a dress and suddenly find that the child’s head will not fit into the neckline. We got carried away with sewing and forgot, it happens. There is no need to alter anything - we will make a neat cut and insert the fastener into it.

2. fasteners included in the pattern. This is when the pattern of the front or back part initially contains a fastener element (a bar on which buttons or snaps will be placed), i.e. the clasp is part of the pattern.

Another note— there is a constant load on the fastener parts (during repeated fastening and unfastening), so you need to choose high-quality threads, lavsan or reinforced, and the seams can be duplicated (stitch on top of stitch.)

And when you remove the stitched product from under the machine, leave long ends threads (from the bobbin and from the needle) - then they will need to be inserted into a regular needle and manually secured to the product. Or sometimes in hard-to-reach places where the machine cannot reach, you need to finish the stitching yourself by hand.

So…

1. One piece clasp "button and loop"

2. One piece clasp “bar with buttons (or buttons)”

The zipper must be sewn so that it is strictly in the center when fastened. I do this: I fastened the zipper, placed it face up on the table, and placed the dress piece with the sewn-in trims on top of it, so that the top jagged end of the zipper is flush with the edge of the neckline. Now each bar must be bent so that only the teeth peek out from behind its bent edge, and the “dog” can freely walk back and forth without clinging to the bar (Fig. 1).

Secure the found fold with pins and sew it on by hand (sew with coarse stitches, removing the pins as you go). Same thing with the other bar. They swept it by hand and unbuttoned it, buttoned it up and checked how the “dog” walked. If everything is good and even, stitch it on the machine, and where the machine can’t reach, continue the stitch by hand.

Sew on the fixing square.

After the zipper is sewn, to strengthen the fastener on the wrong side, you can place a square of fabric on top of the lower tail of the zipper and stitch all the way around the perimeter (Fig. 2, 3). This will secure the base of our clasp to the dress and protect our cut (so that it does not tear further)

4. Fastener included in the pattern "short placket with buttons"

9. Clasp V cut-off dress- “mixed”.

Let's change the pattern.

If the back of our bodice is solid, then it must be cut in half - you will get 2 shelves (left and right) - Fig. 2.

Now along the cut line to each shelf you need to make an allowance for the strap (Fig. 3) (buttons and slots for them, or buttons, will be placed on the straps)

The addition to the placket in children's dresses of any size is usually 4.5 cm (in some dresses it can be 6 cm). We will consider the first option.

So, we made an increase – the bodice pattern is ready.

Hem pattern remains unchanged.

We transfer the bodice pattern to the fabric and form the straps.

We laid the shelf pattern on the fabric, traced it and cut it out. You can immediately sew the back flaps to the front of the dress using the side and shoulder seams so that the bodice is almost ready. This will make it easier to sew on the hem later.

Now we bend the bar - we bend it 3 cm from the edge (if we added 6 cm to the bar, not 4.5 cm, then we bend the bar 4 cm from the edge) (Fig. 3, 4).

We attach the bar bent to the wrong side from top to bottom - but we don’t finish the line!(Fig. 5 - the seam is shown with a light green dotted line), since the hem must first be sewn to the bottom of the bodice. And the flap of our bodice strap should cover the cut at the hem. Therefore, let's now move on to the hem, make an incision on it and process it.

We form and process the cut on the hem.

How to make an incision on the hem of a dress and process it using slats (Fig. 6) is described in detail above - see clasp No. 2(we make exactly the same cut at the neckline; it can also be made at the hem of the skirt in a cut-off dress).

Or if you find it difficult to sew in the strip, you can design this incision as in clasp No. 1– i.e. just cut and trim the edges with braid or piping.

We connect the hem and bodice of the dress in the fastener area.

Let's process it first bottom edge bodice, that is, we will bend the edge of the cut 1-1.5 cm to the wrong side and stitch it.

The upper edge of the hem need not be processed; it will hide under the bodice.

Now we join the bodice and hem together in the fastener area (Fig. 7, 8). As you remember, we did not stitch the bodice strips to the end (Fig. 5). Thanks to this, we are between the doors of each bodice trims place our hem strips and fix it manually with a thread and a needle using coarse stitches (Fig. 7, 8). We attached the bodice strips to the hem strips and now you can hand sew the rest of the hem to the bodice using rough stitches. At the same time, unprocessed top edge The hem is hidden behind the finished edge of the bodice.

We sewed everything on by hand, tried it on, - Now we put the dress under the machine, and we sew all these seams (those that sew the hem to the bodice, and those unfinished lines with which we attached the bodice strips, but did not finish them)

All that remains is to sew buttons on one strip of the bodice, make slits on another strip, or insert buttons in the workshop.

Well, that’s all, now it won’t be difficult for you to sew any of the above-described fasteners into your dress.

If anyone has any questions or suggestions, please write in the comments to the article, there you can attach photos of your products.

Happy sewing!