Hidden seam on. Secrets of craftsmanship: we make a secret seam

Designed for an inconspicuous connection of the elements of the product, the hidden stitch is performed only with manual sewing. The main feature of this work is that the stitches remain barely visible from the outside of the finished item. Using this technique, you can connect the necessary parts, make soft toys by hand, neat hem.

What is a hidden seam and why is it needed

Blind stitching by hand requires compliance with maximum accuracy, accuracy. Help if you don't have experience detailed instructions. You need to work in one thread, using a thin manual needle. It is not so much the execution of the stitch itself that is important, but the result - the impeccable appearance of the product. If the fabric is variegated and loose, laying an inconspicuous line is not difficult. Another thing is the processing of the bottom of the clothes from a thin, plain fabric, on which puffs easily form.

Do-it-yourself hidden stitches for an inconspicuous connection of two elements are used when something needs to be carefully repaired or processed. This line is used for:

  • finishing the bottom of trousers, skirts or dresses;
  • completion of the production of a soft toy;
  • minor repairs expensive product, damaged on the front side;
  • fastening the sleeves of the blouse.

How to hem pants by hand with a blind seam

Before making a blind seam by hand, you need to carefully measure the desired length of the trousers, turning the edge on the person. A margin of at least 3.5 cm should be set aside down in case you need to lengthen the thing. To cut the legs evenly, fold them along the entire length, pin with pins. For a high-quality hem, you need to stitch the tape, process the edges with an overlock. The remaining ends of the threads can be hidden with a hook.

To hem your pants with your own hands, do the following:

  1. Turn the item inside out.
  2. Poke with pins a fold 1 cm from the cut.
  3. Insert the needle into the overlock stitch.
  4. Grab 1-2 threads of the canvas.
  5. Bring the needle back to the hem. The stitch pitch should be no more than 1 cm.
  6. Sew both legs.
  7. Turn the item right side out.
  8. Iron the seam allowance inside the leg.
  9. Iron the arrows on the front side using a cloth.

How to make a blind stitch for toys

Making plush crafts is not complete without a hidden stitch. Blind stitch done manually like this:

  1. Insert the thread into the needle.
  2. Tie a knot.
  3. Insert the needle into the open hole in the fold from the inside so that the knot is not visible.
  4. Move the working tool to the opposite side.
  5. Grab 1-2 fibers by gently tightening the connection.
  6. Insert the needle back into the fold of the side where you started.
  7. Grab a couple of fibers, remove the tool by pulling it forward.
  8. Sew up the hole to the end.
  9. Fasten the thread, cut it short with scissors.

A blind stitch is used in hand sewing when two parts of a product need to be inconspicuously fastened together. Thanks to its distinguishing feature, namely, that the hidden seam is not visible from the front side of the product (which is why it got such a name), it is used in the manufacture of toys (for example, when you stuffed a toy with filler and you need to carefully sew up the hole). Such a seam is also used when you need to fold the product, or, for example, sew a lining using the main fabric, etc. To make a blind seam, you need to be patient and be careful. Beginning craftswomen may not be able to cope with such a task the first time, so you should practice on unnecessary pieces of fabric.

So, we take two pieces of fabric and bend them, and the hem should be strictly at the edges of the fabric. Now we insert the thread into the needle, we make a knot. We combine two pieces together. You can connect the hem with a pin to make it easier to sew. So, under the allowance on one side, a needle is inserted from the wrong side.

We take out the needle. Now, at the same level, another stitch is made along the fold on the second part.

We take out the thread. Now, again, a stitch is made along the fold on the second part at the same level where the first was.

So we sew the details until it works beautiful seam, which will not be visible.

All stitches should be small so that front side the fabric did not shrink. After the seam is ready, a small knot is made. If you make every effort and patience, then soon the seam will be obtained quickly and without loss of quality.

Hand seams are the basis of all sewing craft. Even with quality modern technology, You will not be able to do in your work without hand seams. Our master class will introduce you to a variety of hand seams that will definitely come in handy when sewing clothes and various accessories. We will tell you about the very basics of hand sewing and help you master ten hand stitches with your own hands.

Hand stitches: basic rules

How to sew hand stitches with your own hands? There are several basic rules that you should follow in the process of hand sewing.
  • Be sure to work on a level and flat surface.
  • The hand sewing needle must match both the fabric and the threads.
  • For a more comfortable and fast work use thimble. He is dressed in middle finger the hand with which you hold the needle.
  • In the process of work, control the tension of the thread: it should not be too tight.

Getting Started: Knot

We will show you how to tie a knot at the end of a thread quickly and easily.

Hold the thread with your left hand. Draw the thread around the end index finger right hand, and place at the end of the thread. Put thumb on the crossed threads and, pulling a long thread, slide your thumb to the end of your index finger so that the threads twist around each other. Then drop the loop. Pinch the ring between your thumb and forefinger (or middle fingers). Pull with your left hand long end and carefully tighten the knot.

How to fasten the thread at the end of the seam?

You can secure the thread in two ways: knot or bartack. To make a knot, make a small stitch on the wrong side, on top of the last stitch. Slowly tighten the thread until a small loop remains.


Pass the needle through the loop and continue to tighten until a second loop appears. Pass the corner through the second loop and pull the thread tightly, forming a knot. To sew a bartack, simply sew a few small stitches using a back stitch. Such stitches are located one on top of the other and hold the layers of fabric together well.

And now let's learn more about how to do hand stitches with your own hands.

Seam "back needle"

This stitch is one of the most durable hand stitches. It is used for seams in hard to reach places and for securing stitches at the end and beginning. Bring the needle to the top side. Make a small stitch back (2-3 mm) and bring the needle up again, stepping back the same 2-3 mm along the seam line.

On the wrong side, the stitches will be twice as long as on the front side.

Seam "back needle" with skips

This option is also used to secure the transition edge of the piping and hem.

Sew a regular back-to-the-needle stitch, but take the needle back half the stitch length. The needle still comes out for the length of a whole stitch.

Buttonhole stitch

It is used for the manufacture of hand-crafted parts: hinged thread loops and holes, thread loops, hook-and-loop fasteners, belt loops. Also suitable for decorating parts made of felt or fleece. Sew the seam from left to right, positioning the fabric so that the cut is at the bottom.

Secure the stitch on the edge of the fabric with a loop or in any other way convenient for you.

For each stitch, point the needle towards you. Stick the needle into the right side of the fabric and bring it out over the thread at a distance of about 5-6 mm from the edge and the same distance to the right. Don't pull the thread too tight.

Seam "Goat" ("Herringbone")

Use this stitch to join two layers of fabric with a slight degree of movement, such as joining a lining to a garment or hemming a jersey.

Sew from left to right. Make a small horizontal stitch in the top layer, stepping back a little from the edge. Then, just past the edge of the top layer, sew another stitch on the bottom layer, diagonally to the right of the first stitch. Sew stitches without tightening the thread.

French bartack

Use this bartack to attach the hem of the loose lining to the hem of the product.

Sew 2-3 stitches about 2.5-3 cm long between the product and the lining.

Over long stitches, sew stitches " buttonhole stitch, placing them as close to each other as possible. Completely cover long stitches with eyelets.

Use this stitch for all types of hems.

Make an inconspicuous small stitch in the fabric of the product, and then bring the needle up diagonally over the edge of the hem. Distance between stitches 5-6 mm.

Seam "over the edge" ("overlock")

Use this stitch to avoid fraying of fabric sections.

Insert the needle perpendicular to the cut of the fabric, making diagonal stitches over the edge. Try to keep the stitches the same size and evenly spaced.

At the end of the seam, you can return by sticking the needle into the holes already made, thus obtaining "triangular" stitches.

This “back of the needle” stitch option is used to finish the sewing of a zipper on fabrics such as velvet, corduroy or satin, in case the machine stitch looks ugly.

Bring the needle up through all layers of fabric. Sew a back stitch, grabbing 1-2 threads of fabric. Bring the needle to the surface, retreating 5-6 mm forward.

This stitch is a basic hand stitch used for pulling fabric, pintucking, darning and stress-free seams.

Sew a few stitches forward, evenly inserting the needle into the fabric and out to the surface, before pulling the thread.

The number of stitches depends on the thickness of the material. The length of the stitch and the distance between them depends on the place of application of the seam and can vary from 3 mm to 3 cm.

Used for the most inconspicuous hemming, attaching lining, pockets, etc.

Pass the needle through the folded edge of the top fabric. Grab one thread of the bottom fabric and reinsert the needle into the fold of the top fabric.

To sew up a hole in a machine-stitched seam, sew a blind stitch with an equal number of threads in the top and bottom layers. Make a few stitches and then pull off the seam section.

Skillfully sew - what does it mean? Someone will say that in the art of sewing, the main thing is a successful cut. Any amateur can then assemble the thing, especially if he knows how sew on sewing machine.

However, even a properly tailored and fitted item will not look good if it is assembled inaccurately, the seams are crooked, the hem is visible on the front side.

That seamstress who does not know how to sew skillfully with a blind stitch will never be able to make a quality thing.

Seamstress Secrets

The secret seam must be mastered to achieve the following goals:

  • be able to process the bottom of a product made from fine fabric;
  • hem trousers;
  • finish making a soft toy;
  • fasten the sleeves of the blouse;
  • minor repairs are expensive to the product if the damage is on the front side.

Blind seams can be done manually, or by installing a special foot and selecting a mode, perform on a sewing machine.

How to make a blind seam manually, what you need to know for this?

If you do not have on hand threads to match the color of the workpiece, scissors for cutting threads, a relatively thin needle optimally matched to the thickness of the thread and an iron, a blind seam may not work. When working of this nature, the thread is threaded into the needle in 1 addition.

If the fabric is thin and transparent, then you will have to do without a knot:

  • Before starting work, the edges of the product must be overcast. How this will be done, by overlock or by hand, does not matter. You can even go over it with special glue. The main thing is that the threads do not crumble during operation;
  • The edge of the product needs to be bent by 5-8 mm. It is better to sweep the fold, and additionally iron it so that the fabric does not move out when sewing;
  • Once again, the hem is performed, by the same amount. Ironed again;
  • The needle is inserted closer to the edge of the hem, inserted inside, and then withdrawn between the main part of the hem and the hem. You should not pull the thread strongly, there is no knot on it, it can stretch out;
  • The first stitches - 2-3 - are laid close to each other, they secure the thread.

If the knot is still tied, then it must be carefully hidden between the processed edge and the hem.

The distance between the stitches should be no more than 7 mm, but 3-5 is better. During punctures, 1 thread of the product is captured.

The blind hem seam performed by hand according to the stitch pattern is similar to the so-called "goat". Its stitches on the front side form a cross, on the wrong side - parallel lines. But on the front side with a blind seam, the stitches are not visible, as it is captured minimal amount threads.

How to finish sewing or repairing bulky items

When sewing soft toys, repairing down jackets and pillows, it is impossible to do without the skills of performing a blind seam.

The thread is inserted into the needle in one addition, a small knot is tied on it:

  • The needle is inserted into the open hole in the fold from the wrong side;
  • The knot should remain in the fold from the wrong side;
  • Next, the needle moves to the fold of the opposite side or part;
  • 1-2 threads are captured, the stitch is tightened;
  • The process is repeated: the needle is inserted into the fold of the seam of the first part from which sewing began. In the same way, a pair of threads is captured, the needle is withdrawn, the thread is pulled, the stitch density is checked;
  • The stitches are repeated until the end of the seam.

After the seam is sewn along the entire length, the thread is secured with small, frequent stitches and cut short with scissors.


If the thread is bitten off or cut off, the entire line may pull together and the work will have to be repeated.

We use a sewing machine

The easiest way is to sew with a blind seam on a machine that has computer control. The computer will set the program itself.

The seamstress is only required to prepare the product for work and put on a special foot - R:

  • Process the edge of the product in the same way as for performing a manual seam. That is, the edge is overlaid and ironed;
  • You can overcast the edge not with an overlock, but with an overcast seam - it is included in the program;
  • The width of the hem is marked, the line for laying the line is marked. The hem is always wider than the distance from the edge of the product to the stitching. From the edge of the hem when making a blind seam on a sewing machine-computer, you need to deviate by at least 0.7-1 cm. This distance should be less than the width of the hem;
  • The stitch is selected the one in which the needle occupies the center position. The regulator is set to the middle position;
  • On the first marked line, the details of the fabric are folded inside out, along the second - face to face;
  • The punctures should hit exactly the fold of the fabric.

On a computer-controlled machine, a blind stitch is sewn in a zigzag pattern in 1 mm increments. The needle for this type of seam is chosen thin, the threads must match the color of the fabric.

In the program, you can set 1 of 2 functions to choose from: hemming stitch or loose sleeve. A seam made in this way will be invisible on loose fabrics. Slightly visible on smooth surfaces.After finishing work, the product must be ironed.

Algorithm for performing a blind stitch on an electric sewing machine

Fabric preparation is carried out in exactly the same way as when making a blind seam manually and when sewing it on a computer-controlled machine:

  • Install the Blind Hem Foot with the Adjustable Stopper Width Function. This foot is called L. The screw, which is attached to the foot, moves the stopper during operation, and it is not necessary to adjust the position of the needle;
  • The machine is set to the zigzag mode with skipped "herringbones";
  • The stitch for hemming is selected, the needle is set to the center position;
  • The limiter screw is adjusted manually;
  • The line should run along the very edge of the hem;
  • It is necessary to scribble so that the needle captures the minimum number of threads on the fold.

After finishing work, the product must be ironed, as in other cases.


  • When sewing a blind seam by hand, you need to select threads by a number less than is required for sewing this type of fabric;
  • The thickness of the thread must match the thickness of the needle;
  • You need to choose only a sharp needle, even if the fabric has loose structure, otherwise it will not work to capture 1-2 threads.

In an electric sewing machine, in order for the line to be practically invisible, you can thread a fishing line as an upper thread. The product must be positioned so that the fishing line is on the front side

In the studio, the hem seam is performed on a special sewing machine. The stitch is made with one monofilament, somewhat resembling a fishing line, so you can hem the hem of the bottom of the product with the same thread from any fabric. The thread is transparent and thin and completely invisible on the front side. You can also try to hem with such a thread with a regular hand needle, but most likely this will bring you a lot of trouble. Let's take a better look at how to do a blind stitch by hand ordinary thread matched to the color of the fabric.

The site already has an article on how to properly hem pants. It describes in detail the technology of stitching a trouser tape, hemming the bottom of a product made of knitted fabrics. However, little is said about how to properly make the secret seam itself. In this article, you will learn in detail how to hem trousers or a skirt with a blind stitch, what threads and needles to use.

How to sew trouser tape on a sewing machine


Before I talk in detail about the blind seam, I want to briefly explain how to sew on a trouser tape. Tape is adjusted to sewing machine two lines. It is not necessary to tack it, the main thing is to pull it correctly when sewing. Otherwise, the tape can either tighten the bottom of the trouser leg, or vice versa, stretch and this defect cannot be corrected with an iron.

It is difficult to explain the degree of belt tension in words, this requires practice. But the general meaning is this. If the tape is loosened, the leg edge will be wavy. And vice versa, if it is overtightened, narrowed.
It is best to stretch the tape and fabric lightly at the same time with little effort. Just to ensure that the tape evenly adjusts to the fabric without deforming it.
Never do this operation last. Better save it for the next day. A carelessly made hem of the bottom of the product will spoil its entire appearance. Moreover, an inexperienced seamstress sometimes has to redo this work more than once.

The trouser tape should protrude by 0.1-0.2


There is one more nuance I would like to draw your attention to. To prevent the trousers from rubbing in the hem fold, the trouser tape should protrude from the edge of the hem by 0.1-0.2. It's about the same as in this photo.

To make this operation easier, mark with a small line the line to which you will apply the edge of the tape when stitching.
It is not necessary to make a line on the tape at 0.1-0.2. Only a professional seamstress can have such accuracy. You can stitch at 0.4-0.5, and then with the iron "lay out" the hem exactly at 0.1-0.2.

How to hem trousers with a blind seam


Well, now, when everything is swept over, the tape is stitched, you can also hem the bottom of the trousers. The blind stitch is the most difficult hand stitch. And it's not so much difficult to perform the stitch itself, how difficult it is to achieve the perfect appearance hemming of the bottom of the product in its final form.
It is one thing when the fabric is thick enough and loose, and besides, it is also motley. And another thing is to hem the bottom of a skirt or trousers from a thin, and even hand-tightening fabric with a hidden seam. Moreover, so that not a single stitch is visible from the front side.

You need to hem with a thin and not long needle for hand sewing in one thread. The thread should be thin and strong. It is important that the thread is not twisted. Twisted thread will constantly form huge loops, making it difficult to evenly sew and tighten stitches.

You need to hem the trousers from right to left, the stitch length should be approximately 0.7 cm. As you can see in the photo, the thread must be drawn below the overlock stitch, then the hem seam will be securely hidden and will not tear when putting on the trousers.

For comfort lower part trousers (hem) must be turned out. Do not tighten the stitches too much so that there is no trace of over-tightening the thread on the right side. It is impossible to smooth it out with any iron.

And most importantly, so that the thread does not appear on the front side of the trousers, grab literally one thread from the weave of the fabric with the tip of the needle, no more. But on reverse side, from the side of the overlock line, you can not particularly "try on".

The important thing is that you need to capture with a needle not two sections at once (upper and lower), but one at a time. That is, they grabbed the thread of the lower part, stretch the needle with the thread, then the upper section, pull the needle with the thread and so on in a circle. Of course, this way the work will go more slowly, but more accurately. Moreover, the needle thread must be correctly tensioned so that it is almost straight, but at the same time has "slack". Hem 10 centimeters and stretch this section of the leg with your hand. So you can check if the thread is overtightened.

Using this method, you can quietly, firmly and accurately hem trousers or a skirt, even from very thin fabric, it is only important not to tighten the thread too much in the stitch.

Close-up photo of a blind stitch


This is what the finished seam should look like.


Many sewing machines have a special foot for blind stitching. Of course, it is convenient and most importantly, you can quickly fix the hem of the bottom with it. But from personal experience I know that professionals never use them, preferring to sew on the bottom hem either on a hemming machine or by hand.

After some practice, you can perform a blind stitch on a sewing machine. However, if the fabric is thick enough and loose. Approximately the same quality as in this photo. It is even better if the fabric is variegated, melange. Then the thread on the front side will not be so noticeable. If the fabric is thin and light, then it is best to sew the hem by hand with a blind seam. You can "control" each stitch, the degree of its tightening, and this is the key to neat and beautiful work.