Selective perfumery - what is it: niche fragrances and brands. What is selective perfumery

Even if you are not a big fan of unusual smells, be sure to purchase at least one bottle of perfume or water from the series of niche perfume brands. Perhaps it is this fragrance that will give brightness to your image and put the final point in it.

What is niche perfumery?

According to ordinary inhabitants, spirits or Eau de Toilette must have a floral or fruity aroma. However, when harmonious combination shades, mixing even the most unusual smells sometimes gives incredible beauty and sound compositions. It is on such fragrances that niche (selective) perfume manufacturers specialize. Their perfume bottles can smell like melted snow, whiskey or champagne, fresh leather, printing ink, truffles or lightly salted strawberries.

Niche fragrances can be used in ordinary life while standing out from the crowd. But, since many selectives are difficult to perceive, they are intended specifically for an amateur. Moreover, if the aromas of an ordinary perfumer do not change, then selective perfumes, cologne or toilet water often begin to sound in the most unexpected way over time.

Advice!On the skin of different people, perfumes can be revealed in a completely different way. Applied to the body of one person, it seems ordinary, and on the other it opens up with unexpectedly bright fireworks. That is why it is so important to find your scent.

The price of this perfume

Contrary to popular belief, niche perfumes are not sold at fabulous prices - often their price is equal to the cost of ordinary luxury novelties. For example, a 50-milligram bottle of the rarest perfume is estimated at 4,000–6,000 rubles.

The price of such fragrances depends on their composition. Naturally, if the rarest raw materials are used in production or a lot of money is spent on its manufacture, the cost increases. But still, such manufacturers can hardly be called businessmen - rather, they are artists striving to create unique masterpieces.

Selective products designed for the most different categories of people. Among her admirers there are both ordinary office clerks, poets or artists, as well as sheikhs or lords. The only thing that unites all these categories of people is the desire for everything unusual.

Main differences

We list the main features by which a perfume can be attributed to a niche:

• the uniqueness of fragrances: its creators do not pursue popularity, they are more attracted to unusual smells;
• ease of packaging: since its creators do not engage in self-promotion, perfumes from one manufacturer can differ only in the inscriptions on the tags; some perfumers, on the contrary, pack their products in bottles made of special woods, gold, trimmed with stones and hand-painted; however, this is not done to increase sales, but to emphasize the unusual content;
• high-quality, often the rarest ingredients: if the master decides to mix the smells of several varieties of orange trees grown on different continents in one vessel, he is able to follow them to the ends of the world;

• sales volume: some of the niche fragrances are sold in limited quantities due to the inaccessibility of ingredients;
• lack of gender division: most niche brands are not divided into men's and women's, you should focus only on taste preferences.

The most famous brands

Each brand rarely specializes in just one scent. Often manufacturers produce several flavors. The most famous selective brands include brands:

• Penhaligon's: the fragrances of this oldest English manufacturer are simple, concise, and elegant; most often these are the smells of freshly cut green violets, lilies of the valley, bluebells or more complex Artemisia and Malabah;

• Jo Malone: offers a perfume for all occasions, "personal fragrances" that accurately reflect the state of your soul;

• Serge Lutens: refined and seasoned compositions are more suitable for accomplished women;

• Etro: Italian perfume for the most extraordinary personalities;

• Bond No 9: American brand belonging to the group oriental fragrances;

Bond No 9 is an American brand belonging to the group of oriental fragrances.

• Le Labo: dry and spicy complex compositions, which can include up to 24 ingredients;

• Micallef: bottles of precious liquid exuding the most delicate ombre, hand-painted and trimmed with stones.

The composition of the perfume can include a very different number of components. Eg, La Maisondela Vanille represented by the smell of vanilla, Les Parfums de Rosine has a single note of rose, and woody-spicy Comme des Garcons Includes 9 ingredients. Moreover, not only natural notes, but also unconventional synthetic ones can be used in the compositions.

Advice! The perfume composition of a niche brand may not be liked the first time just because this smell is not characteristic of ordinary perfumes or water, that is, it is not floral or fruity. Sometimes it takes a few trials to figure out if it's right for you.

Niche perfume brands: where to buy?

These products cannot be found in fashion catalogs or conventional stores. It is being implemented special points, and there are no more than 250 of them in the world. They are located only in the largest cities. Since such businesses do not engage in self-promotion, only those who are really interested in an unusual purchase come to them.

In Russia, niche perfume brands are sold by Rive Gauche, L’Etoile and some online stores. Check out what's new selective perfume is possible only at two international exhibitions, which are held twice a year, in spring and autumn. The first, called Esxence, takes place in Milan. The second (Pitti Fragranze) is held in Florence.

Advice! When choosing a perfume composition, you should never rush. Indeed, immediately after application, only the initial (upper) notes are heard. Gradually, the smell changes, and aromas-notes of the “heart” come forward, holding on for a long time. The final aroma, called the base, appears only at the very end.

L'Etoile fragrance library

If you've tried all the scents known to you and still haven't been hooked, it might be time to use unusual options. But, since it is simply impossible to choose a fragrance according to the description and reviews, we suggest that you use their “library”.

In the autumn of 2016, the L'Etoile perfumery and cosmetics chain provided its customers with a truly unique service - a complete collection of the most unusual and daring world brands. Moreover, this unusual collection is constantly updated. You can use this service in 138 largest cities of Russia. The owners of the network claim that this figure will increase in the near future.

Corner Letual consultants who offer niche perfume brands know that such a perfume does not tolerate hasty decisions. Most of them are real psychologists, therefore, before recommending this or that smell, they likewise learn about the habits, lifestyle and even hobbies of future buyers.

Interesting! One of the novelties of niche brands are special fragrances for children. Their main difference is the absence of alcohol.

Bluebell Penhaligon's

Most often, flower-green fragrances of this manufacturer are chosen by women. The smells of jasmine, lily of the valley, hyacinth or rose are subtly intertwined with citrus notes and cinnamon and cloves.

Unpretentious, at first glance, the aromas of this English manufacturer are similar to the breath of spring, the smells of damp earth, the aromas of a hot summer or the fragrance of autumn. Despite the lack of excessive harshness, the smell of freshness remains on the skin all day.

Average price: 3200–4700 rubles.

Interesting! France is considered the birthplace of niche perfumery. After all, the idea of ​​creating the first unusual fragrance belongs to the perfumer of Louis XVIII.

Jo Malone

Briton Malon, once an ordinary beautician, once became interested in mixing fragrances. She liked one of them so much that she gave away several bottles to regular customers. Today, Malon fragrances are included in the list of brands of the best niche perfumery.

Despite the fact that this brand is named after the creator's husband and belongs to the unisex group, its fragrances tend to be more feminine. The composition can include lime blossom, lily flowers, orchids, vanilla, musk, cocoa, all kinds of spices, for example, cardamom, lime oil, etc. Moreover, Malon assures that all her products are compatible - that is, by mixing the contents of two or even three different bottles, you can get a completely new flavor.

Average price: 3500–8300 rubles.

Etro

Each country has its own perfume traditions. If English brands are simple and understandable, French fragrances are distinguished by special sophistication, then the main feature of Italian perfumery is extraordinary brightness and originality.

Etro is a brand of Italian niche perfumery, able to attract the most extraordinary personalities. It is represented only by mono-aromas of oils of frankincense, sandalwood, myrrh, patchouli, etc. Their second feature is their highest durability.

Average price: 3600–7700 rubles.

Bond No 9

In America, selective perfumes began to be produced relatively recently. One of the pioneers in this area was Bond No 9. It is curious that the brand name coincides with its address!

Moreover, the manufacturer devotes its fragrances to the most different places hometown of New York. But many of them are more reminiscent of oriental ones: notes of amber, musk, tobacco, resin and leather in them echo the floral fragrance. The manufacturer also offers whole sets of fragrances, consisting of 18 original bottles.

Average price: 1500–5600 rubles.

M.Micallef

Apparently, fate once brought together the hereditary French banker Geoffrey Newman and the owner of a beauty salon, Martina Micaleff, not in vain. The very first fragrance called "Crystal Line" immediately brought fame to this couple.

The secret of flavors lies in the utmost simplicity and precise dosage. The composition very rarely includes a large number of ingredients: they are most often no more than 5-6. Amber, tobacco, cocoa and incense echo patchouli, saffron and rose.

Average price: 7200–29 000 rubles.

Le Labo

After the smell of flowers and berries, the aromas of leather, smoke and tar, perhaps, will seem incomprehensible to someone. However, Le Labo also offers slightly more familiar compositions, the smell of the roots and stems of lilies, iris, tangerines or vanilla. However, these are not sugary-sweet sets, but truly magical smells with a slight admixture of tree bark and the unique smell of freshly cut hay and the aroma emanating from the earth.

By the way, despite the fact that this product is not cheap, it is packaged in simple bottles with a plain label. Since perfumes are produced in a limited edition, they must be numbered.

The average price is 8,000–29,000 rubles.

Niche perfumery… You must have heard about it dozens of times, and just as many have tried all these strange aromas in the corners with notes of Havana tobacco, Amazonian trees, shrubs from the Sahara Desert, alligator skin, white cedar, red wine from berries picked in the successful 1956… Eccentric, unusual, fresh or not very fresh – but do you need such a perfume? No wonder you still can't answer this question. Well, let's figure it out together, and let's start with what we remember once and for all: complex perfume compositions should be chosen not because it is fashionable, but because you really want and will wear them.

By the way, fashion, or (to put it more correctly) obsession with niche fragrances, has emerged relatively recently in our country. Why? Firstly, the intimacy of perfume lines of selectives initially assumed the absence of mass character. Secondly, niche fragrances do not need advertising - they are stories that are passed from mouth to mouth. Thirdly, the culture of aromas itself appeared in our country just a couple of years ago, and selective perfumery is not just artificially synthesized floral or citrus notes and marketing tricks of promotion, therefore it requires a more sophisticated nose.

The birth of niche fragrances has its own history (of course, we cannot promise you 100% authenticity, but it is considered to be the starting point): Mûre et Musc perfume of 1978, created by perfumer Jean Laporte from french house L'Artisan Parfumeur. According to legend, he “crossed” blackberries heated by the sun with nutmeg and got a flavor that is amazing and unlike any previously created.

How do you know if you have a niche fragrance in your hands?

Look around: you are not in an ordinary chain perfume store, but in a small corner or in a small shop with a mysterious fairy-tale interior.
Look for special packaging, starting with the bottle (most often they have the same design) and ending with the nuances enclosed in the box - a dried leaf of a tree, a playing card, an unusually shaped mineral.
Pay attention to unusual details. Niche fragrances are famous for their amazing stories. If you hear about the childhood of a perfumer who grew up on the streets of a small town, lived in an oak barrel and created his first fragrance, remembering that very oak, or even worse, after finding this barrel 40 years later, then you have a “selective”.
Try the scent. The contents of the bottle should seem very strange, you will be haunted by the feeling that the perfumer mixed up the heavy base and playful top notes, completely forgetting about the latter. And remember, it is difficult to define a “gender” for a selective fragrance – there is no division into male and female in this niche.
Focus on price. Chanel fragrances such as Bois Des Iles, Gardénia and 31 Rue Cambon will be markedly different in price from your favorite Coco Mademoiselle.
And take a closer look at the name of the perfumer. Only sensitive super-professionals and the most refined "noses" work with "selective" (here you have to "google" to read about the creator). By the way, do not neglect the search “by photo”, we don’t know how it happened - but all the creators of rare perfumes are handsome, which ones to look for?

How are selective fragrances created?

The birth of a fragrance is a process that captivates no less than a good series. First, the perfumer comes up with a legend, within which it is clearly defined who the fragrance will be addressed to, or rather, who it is. main character. It can be an artist living on one of the Parisian rooftops, or maybe a lover who has turned into a constellation to light up the sky for his beloved every day, or even a virgin who has forgotten about everything in a dance on a heather field at night when the Moon passes from the constellation Virgo to Libra. It is not always easy to understand the aroma and recognize the idea, but if the aroma is “the same”, one hundred percent hit of the perfume in your cosmetic bag for ten years is guaranteed!

However, the legend is not everything. The perfumer has to travel the whole world, looking for the very orange blossom that will reveal his idea to the maximum. For example, he can visit the Maghreb countries - and in the north of Africa, and in Tunisia, and in Morocco, and in Algeria, until he finds what he needs. The process of creating a fragrance is akin to winemaking - the place where the component of the future perfume grew is no less important than the season. Moreover, the difficulties do not end there, the perfumer is waiting for a difficult process of finding the right combinations, for now - voila! - the fragrance will not be ready.

If you decide to experiment with complex fragrances, pay attention to our selection, but do not forget: all the perfumes presented, with rare exceptions, are an order of magnitude higher than what you might be used to. There are almost never discounts, special offers and sales for these compositions. The maximum that awaits you is a compliment from the owner of a perfume boutique (for example, an element from the bath collection), as well as an exciting story behind the perfume you have chosen.

Selective, or, as it is also called, niche perfumery, first of all, opposes itself to the mass market and luxury class fragrances. It is from this confrontation that we can derive the answer to the question - what is selective perfumery?

Exclusivity VS Versatility

The process of creating a fragrance in selective perfumery and luxury perfumery, the dough associated with the world of fashion, is very different. Famous fashion houses rely on the mass tastes of people, so manufacturers invest a lot of money in studying public opinion. Their the main task- make sure that the fragrance will be popular even before it sees the light of day, so luxury perfumes strictly follow the latest fashion trends and creates average fragrances with popular notes.

Niche perfumery has a completely different approach. There, the composition reflects the exclusive tastes of its creator, and does not chase the tastes of a wide audience. In this sense, niche perfumery revives the traditions of perfumery in general, when each fragrance was exclusive, original and depended on the imagination and creative impulse of the perfumer, who created without looking back at the preferences of consumers.

Unusual flavors VS classics of the genre

If you set out to study the olfactory pyramid of the most popular perfumes on the market, it turns out that the notes in them are often repeated. Basic set such fragrances will include fruity - most often citrus - notes, rose, peony, jasmine, ylang-ylang, anise, lavender. Yes, if you list all of them, you get a rather long list, and yet it is quite standard, and we will not see anything unexpected there.

Selective perfumery tries to go beyond the ordinary and often uses very unusual raw materials to create their fragrances. For example, mushrooms, buckwheat, oak bark, papyrus, gunpowder, champagne, ink, exotic plants and rare spices. In short, niche perfumery is much more inventive and not afraid to experiment.

Multi-million dollar production VS limited edition

If you are planning to buy some trendy fragrance, then most likely you will find it in the nearest perfume store and you are unlikely to face the problem that it is sold out. But for selective perfumery you will have to run, and maybe even stand on the waiting list for a year or two. Niche perfumery is produced in a limited edition and sometimes the volume of production is determined not only by the will of the manufacturer, but also by the volume of raw materials received per year. In addition, the principle of winemaking operates in selective perfumery - the year of harvest not least affects the quality of the aroma.

Attracting showbiz stars VS no advertising

Finally, selective and luxury perfumes have completely different “post-production”. The cost of luxury perfumery includes the manufacturer's advertising costs: attracting world-class stars, front pages in glossy magazines, prime-time TV advertising, and so on. In total, you pay for advertising about 50% of the final cost of the perfume.

In the case of selective perfumes, which are several times more expensive than luxury perfumes, you only pay for the product itself, because niche brands rarely resort to advertising, especially large-scale ones.

The most famous brands of niche perfumery

Selective perfumes are either brands with a long history or new recruits who adhere to the philosophy of niche perfumery. For example, Penhaligon's, Annick Goutal, Creed, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Histories de Parfums, Amouage, Mark Birley, Jo Malone, Perfums d'Orsey and others.

There are two main conditions in the production of exclusive fragrances - this is the inspiration of the perfumer and natural ingredients. To avoid confusion, you should know: selective perfumery - what it is - niche fragrances, perfumes that are produced in a limited edition. Rare plants, tree resin, aromatic oils are used to create them.

What does selective or niche perfumery mean?

What is niche perfumery and what is selective perfumery? Niche cosmetics is a term that is used to define rare types of perfume. The selective is perfume fragrance, which refers to "niche cosmetics". selective spirits occupied a certain niche or cell, hence the conclusion: selective perfumery is part of a niche.

How is it different from the rest

To easily distinguish a selective perfume from another, you need to know which groups it is divided into:

Massmarket - perfumes of a low price category. Such aromas quickly disappear without having time to open up. Sold in markets, supermarkets, hardware stores.

Luxury perfumes - eau de parfum, perfumes of famous fashion houses, brands. They are distinguished by an extensive amount of advertising with the participation of popular personalities. A wide range of fragrances, last up to 24 hours, the price range varies. These are perfumes of wide production with the use of synthetic products.

Selective perfumery is a product creative process using rare plants, natural ingredients. Such aromas on each person "sound" in their own way, they last from 24 hours to two days. They are limited edition, there are no more than 500 distribution points around the world. They use ordinary glass or original bottles with precious metals, stones and leather. At the same time, the price of some fragrances is not higher than luxury perfumes. The cost of such an exclusive bottle can reach several hundred thousand dollars.

Features of selective perfumery

Even if we take into account all the pluses, uniqueness, selective perfumery - perfumes are “not for everyone”. The fact is that they can seem specific, even harsh. In addition, they are mostly unisex fragrances. Niche perfume on a man reveals more tart notes, on a woman's body - softer, gentle, sensual. These perfumes change the view of the world of perfume, after using them you do not want to return to the familiar world of smells. The sound of the fragrance depends on the body temperature, the weather and even the mood of the person.

Selective perfume brands

Niche perfumes are increasingly attracting the attention of people, especially women. Every year new selective brands appear, new names are heard. Not so much because it's profitable, but because it's something creatively new. The desire to expand the boundaries, to surprise the world, to speak out is pushing more and more talents to try themselves in the world of exclusive perfumery. Someone remains a sensual romantic, while someone becomes an innovator.

Serge Lutens

The Serge Lutens brand is distinguished by its originality and great taste. Serge Lutens, the founder of the brand, is an authority in perfume circles, and the brand itself is one of the most popular. One of the first fragrances by Serge Lutens, the floral Sa Majeste La Rose conquers with essence tender rose paired with sweet honey, light notes smoke and wood. The composition is complemented by musk, cloves. Perfume Fille en Aiguiles created on the basis of pine needles and incense in combination with bay leaves and fruits. This perfume is best revealed in late autumn or winter.

Tom Ford

The former creative director of Gucci has collaborated with Estée Lauder on two makeup lines. Today the name Tom Ford is very popular. He received recognition not only for the collection of clothes, but also for the creation of an exclusive perfume. The brand's line includes more than 30 fragrances for women, men and unisex. Each of them has luxury and sophistication.

Orchid Soleil or Solar Orchid is a women's perfume. The combination of orchid, red lily, tuberose, pink pepper and whipped cream will conquer the tender nature. The bouquet opens from brighter to more delicate oriental. For men, Tom Ford Noir is presented - the base consists of patchouli, civet and vetiver. Add bergamot, cumin, violet, nutmeg and pink pepper to them, and you will get an incredible elegant and mysterious aroma.

Etat Libre d'Orange

The translation of this brand sounds like "Country of Free Oranges." Brand founder Etienne de Swardt has a truly rich imagination. Knows how to emphasize the exclusivity of fragrances. With his perfume, he seeks to awaken sexuality, reveal the secret, give freedom to hidden desires. He uses rare perfume combinations. The smell of sweat, blood, semen are the usual components of these selective perfumes. "Charming Secretions", "Palace Whore", "Virgin and Toreador", this exclusive brand attracts interest only with its outrageous names.

"Enchanting secretions" refers to a woody fragrance. It is based on coconut, lily of the valley, apricot and lilac. The composition is added with accords of iodine, blood, iris and sandalwood. A truly bewitching, bewitching perfume. "Virgins and Bullfighters" is an amazing combination of soft, sweet notes with brutal ones. Musk, tuberose, patchouli, bergamot and vetiver fit perfectly in one bottle.

Escentric Molecules

All of Geza Shawn's perfumes are based on the Iso E Super molecule, which is obtained from chords of musk, amber, oriental flowers and woods. Escentric 01 consists of Iso E Super, pink pepper, lime, mastic tree resin. Muscat and woody notes of the bouquet give a special warmth. Molecule 01 is a mono-flavour, consisting of one component, the same Iso E Super molecule. It has a pheromone effect. Perfume sometimes attracts with its mystery, sometimes it repels with sharpness.

Montale

The French brand of selective perfumery Montale is distinguished by its love for exclusive fragrances. Founder Pierre Montal created perfumes for Arab sheikhs. The works of the French brand Montale are unique, their basis consists of a mixture of aromatic oils, and the proportion of alcohol is minimal. They are distinguished by their durability, charming sense of romance and magic.

For feminine natures, Montale offers Crystal Flowers fragrance. Delicate floral aroma of the East combines lily of the valley, rose, mandarin and musk. Chocolate Greedy with notes of chocolate, vanilla, coconut, orange zest is perfect for lovers of sweets. The combination of plum, orange, geranium and rose presented in Dark Purple will captivate brave, extraordinary ladies.

C&R Create

The idea to combine the zodiac signs with perfume came from astrologer Robert Boehm. 24 fragrances, two for each zodiac sign, for men and women. For example, Aries for Men smells like trees: pine and cedar. Dilute with jasmine, geranium, blue mint. The nature of the spirits corresponds to the strong, assertive, tactful Aries. For the emotional Virgo, a floral fragrance of white flowers, vanilla, pear, bergamot, cloves, cinnamon is presented.

Comme des garcons

Rei Kawakubo - famous designer, founder of the Japanese perfume brand. This laboratory has created not only the luxury fragrances Comme des Garçons, Odeur 53, Champaca, but also six selective perfume lines:

• Sherbet, "edible" smells;
• Leaves, dedicated to lily, mint, tea;
• Red, dedicated to the color red;
• Incense, dedicated to religion
• Colonge, three colognes in XVIII style century;
• synthetic line.

Among floral fragrances presented by Comme des Garcons Series 2 Red: Rose with combinations of rose, raspberry, pink pepper, paprika, blueberry. Such a romantic bouquet will conquer refined natures. "Series 5 Sherbet: Peppermint" with mint and cardamom in the base is suitable for lovers of spicy perfume. For men, des Garcons Comme De Garsons 2 Man is presented. These perfumes based on nutmeg, mahogany, leather will add zest to the image of a confident man who loves to be the center of attention.

amouage

Amouage perfume brand has exclusive, unique, inimitable aromas. The perfumery of the Arab country is one of the most expensive and is distinguished by its luxury. It uses rare components that grow in Oman and are prohibited for export. The price of such perfume compositions starts from 10,000 rubles.

Amouage Ciel is a feminine fragrance in a crystal bottle. Violet, peach blossom, rose, jasmine, cedar, sandalwood for charming, true women. Image for romantic evening will complement the spirits of Epic of Woman. A floral bouquet of roses, geraniums, jasmine combined with spices - cumin, cinnamon. Oriental sweets, sandalwood, vanilla will add tenderness and mystery to the image.

The most popular selective perfumes

Selective flavors are gaining popularity, finding a place in the hearts of the sophisticated. Among them is a wide selection of perfumes for men and women, but unisex remains the most popular. Montale, Amouge, Etat Libre d'Orange occupy the first lines among well-known brands of niche perfumes. This proves the exclusivity of fragrances. Among them are Montale Chocolate Greedy, Serge Lutens Daim Blond.

The main misconception regarding elite niche perfumes is the high price. There are brands, exclusive fragrances that are available to everyone, you can buy such perfumes at points of sale. In Moscow, there are such stores in the shopping center "Prestige M" and in the Central Department Store, in St. Petersburg in the shopping center "Rainbow". These same stores offer online shopping. In addition to points of sale, there are online stores where you can order exclusive perfume online with home delivery.

Among all the variety of online stores, it is difficult to choose the one that will offer a quality product. It is worth paying attention to the prices. A fake will always be cheap relative to the original. Before buying online, it is better to first get acquainted with the fragrance in person, so as not to make a mistake with the choice of your selective brand and choose your scent.

Video

Historically, almost all niche perfumery is based in France and Italy. Italy in general is incredibly important for the global market, because there are only such a number of independent shops there. It is in Italy that two major international exhibitions are held - spring and autumn, in Milan and Florence. The first is "Esxence", where the producers themselves exhibit their products, and the second - "Pitti Fragranze" - distributors. The division into spring and autumn has nothing to do with seasonality. It's just that these are two competitors, and they should not coincide in time.

Demeter is based in America, there are private little-known perfumers, but there is no serious industry anywhere except in Europe.

Why jewelers and fashion houses create their own fragrances

Bestseller - Chanel No. 5 and the re-release of the historical fragrance of 1925 - Chanel Gardenia, which costs completely different money Every self-respecting major fashion or jewelry house that also produces perfume under its own name, with the spread of niche perfumery, has acquired its own selective lines. Let's say Chanel fragrance No. 5 is part of the main perfume line and costs quite real money ($120 on the brand's website), while Gardenia is from the selective line Chanel Les Exclusifs - $3,800 (price per 900 ml). Meanwhile, both an independent perfumer from a niche brand and an eminent commercial perfumer from a big house have the same materials and possibilities. Many independent masters have access to oils and essences that are purchased for the same Coco Mademoiselle by global manufacturers. Even the production of both of them in most cases is handled by one of the two best Swiss companies - Firmenich or Givaudan.

Sometimes the whole process rests on one person: he independently purchases the ingredients from several manufacturers, mixes and pours everything himself - of course, not on his knee, but very professionally. This is how the Frenchman Pierre Guillaume, creator of Parfumerie Generale, an exemplary French brand with tiny circulations, simple packaging and fragrance names by numbers (only 25 perfumes, not counting intermediate ones like 6.1) works.

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Why there are no gender fragrances in niche perfumery

Selectives are not divided into male and female - this is the same trick of marketers as the concept of "unisex fragrance". Historically, perfume has been a gender-neutral product. For example, those very woody notes that are usually added to what any nose defines as men's fragrance, are more about elegance than masculinity.

Photo: Sasha Karelina

How much does selective perfume cost?

A long time ago one talented married couple under the name Bobo, she created the Pepsi Cola flavor, which won numerous packaging awards. The product was comparable in price to any fragrance from the mass market, and this despite the fact that several eminent perfumers worked on it. Known to all, Demeter also went down the path of humorous, even scandalous, and are also sold at very affordable prices. The aroma of beetroot, dust, cemetery, funeral home - yes, they simply scoff at the industry!

Demeter is perhaps one of the most famous brands in selective perfumery, but still did not cross the line of 250 points of sale. But the stereotype of “expensive selectives” did not come out of nowhere. Yes, small-circulation fragrances are more expensive to manufacture, they are made up of persistent natural oils, often hand-packed - that is, they simply cannot cost 1,500 rubles. If the composition contains diamond dust or oil of the only representative of a plant species on the continent, the price can reach fantastic proportions.

Is it possible to mix flavors

If for someone Lacoste copes with the role of the ideal smell, then this is absolutely normal, and one should only be glad that someone found their fragrance so easily. But it happens that a person listens to aromas for a long time, chooses, chooses, but even the most complex smells seem simple to him. In these cases, the consultant mixes different perfumes for him - some brands have schemes for the most successful combinations, others have to choose on a whim.

Why Perfumers Can't Be Trusted

There are people who prefer mono-aromas. More precisely, they think they prefer it, because a mono-perfume is the biggest deception in the world: it's all the same, whatever one may say, a composition. Each fragrance has one very bright ingredient, which is beautifully framed by a huge amount of other oils. A person simply may not know how the original source smells. So you come to the store, take the product, it says Fleur D'Orange. You listen and believe that this is how orange flowers smell, because how can a Russian person know how orange flowers smell? Or L’Artisan Parfumeur had Mimosa Pour Moi. But mimosa has no fragrance oil, and Mimosa Pour Moi is a composition of various ingredients that together bring to mind the smell of mimosa. Or, for example, the same with tuberose (a plant of the agave family. - Approx. ed.): we took Fracas by Robert Piguet as the unit of tuberose. And this is not tuberose, this is a classic trio of tuberose, jasmine and orange blossom.

Well, about the classification: as in the mass market, all division depends on the proportion of alcohol, aromatic substances and water. The weakest concentration is Eau de Cologne, then Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum (or day perfume as we call it) and finally Parfum. But even in niche perfumery, there are cases when a perfumer allegedly works in the Eau de Parfum format, and his concentration of oils does not even reach the Eau de Toilette.

Is there a niche perfumery in Russia

There is also an exhibition in Moscow, Intercharm, but big perfumers almost never come there. In general, if we talk about the Russian trace, then recently we have the first niche perfumer, Maria Borisova. Fragrances of her brand Selection Excellence are made in Belgium, wooden caps for bottles are made by a Tver master, and the bottles themselves are made at a factory in Austria. And in the US, two girls with Russian roots started the pro-Russian brand Sulékó, for example, they have the woody-musky fragrance Baba Yaga in a stupa-shaped bottle. Another Russian trail is Fragrantica, an online perfume encyclopedia where you can read everything about absolutely every fragrance on the planet. The owner of the project, Elena Knezhevich, founded a house called The Vagabond Prince. Their bottles are painted Khokhloma, Russian-Pre-Russian, even unnecessarily.

In Russia, the consumer is very specific. For example, if the name of a fragrance contains the word "rose", no one will ever buy it. For some reason, people do not like to know that his perfume contains a Bulgarian or Turkish rose, but in fact, almost no fragrance can do without it.

10 fragrances with an unusual smell: the choice of the "City"

Figue Fruitee by Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger

Photo: Sasha Karelina

One of the best free interpretations of fruit fig, which is not an oil plant - that is, it does not give oil, and can only be synthesized in perfume. Eau de Parfum is produced in the collection "Fragrances of Provence", which is run by Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger - a company that, in addition to selling all sorts of souvenirs from Provence, supplies oils to perfume houses.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Alkemi

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Three independent perfumers have teamed up to create a line of nine fragrances called Laboratorio Olfattivo. This perfume - a viscous, heavy "Alchemy" - was invented by Marie Duchesne, who built it not on the traditional pyramid (although formally it is still present) of base, middle and top notes, but on a single smell of old oak barrels with whiskey, which I kept in my head all this time.

Jade Olivier Durbano

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Olivier Durbano, whose name this perfume bears, is not actually a perfumer - he has worked all his life in a jewelry house named after himself and has a passion for semi-precious stones and minerals. A series of colorful fragrances created under his leadership by five guest perfumers is a declaration of love for jasper, crystal, moonstone and five other species. Inside the bottle with green Jade are three jade balls, which allegedly give the perfume its fragrance.

Parfumerie Generale Hyperessence Matale

Photo: Sasha Karelina

The note of green tea in perfumery is not uncommon, but other tea varieties were undeservedly forgotten before the advent of Hyperessence Matale No. 12. The great Pierre Guillaume of Parfumerie Generale dedicated a whole series of Hyperessence Matale to the drink. Aroma No. 6 with green tea turned out to be extremely successful, after which Guillaume decided to make the perfume stronger, so the base note was not classic green, but black tea. Since it is impossible to obtain oil from it, tea is subjected to photo-refining - ultraviolet irradiation, during which it emits a smell that can be fixed.

Leather by Franck Boclet

Photo: Sasha Karelina

A distinctly masculine perfume by French fashion designer Franck Boclet. In 2012, he opened a perfume house and launched a series of mono-aromas built around his favorite scents in the world - leather, oud, patchouli and incense. Each bottle is packaged in an organza pouch, which Boclet himself likens to female leg in a stocking.

Monsieur by Huitieme Art Parfums

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Another work by Pierre Guillaume, already under a different name, in the Eighth Art series. From the very beginning, the bottles in this series were white and contained the aromas of various edible products. Monsieur is the first unambiguously masculine and therefore black. Here, again, there is no traditional pyramid, the smell rests on two pillars - smoke and incense.

Jasmin and Cigarette Etat Libre d'Orange

Photo: Sasha Karelina

The Etat Libre d'Orange project has dozens of fragrances with provocative names, but rather harmless sound. Among the most memorable is "Jasmine and Cigarettes" with orange, jasmine and tobacco. Say hello to Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich blowing smoke from a black and white screen into a dark cinema.

Korloff In White by Korloff Paris

Photo: Sasha Karelina

The Korloff jewelery house, symbolized by the 88-carat black diamond Korloff Noir, makes jewel-shaped caps for all its fragrances. One of the most non-trivial - 88 ml bottle frosted glass with the crisp, tangy freshness of snow inside.

liquid money

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Ex-Microsoft VP Patrick McCarthy once read on the Internet a study by Japanese scientists who found out that money smells - moreover, this smell motivates you to succeed. Without thinking twice, McCarthy found a perfumer and created two fragrances - male and female - with the smell of cotton and metal shavings, which together give the scent of a freshly printed banknote. Interestingly, the bottle is packaged in sliced ​​​​on long strips real 20 dollar bill.

Sucre d'Ebene Huitieme Art Parfums

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Reliable liquid brown sugar in a retrofuturistic bottle of the same Pierre Guillaume, who figured out how to pack smoke and incense in glass, the nose of a professional will immediately understand that the sugar is irradiated with ultraviolet light and infused with musk. The rest can be content with a clever imitation of the smell, from which the appetite instantly wakes up.

Dear readers, we apologize for the mistakes made in the material. We corrected: the names of the Italian perfume exhibitions "Esxence" and "Pitti Fragranze", clarified the volume of the Gardenia perfume bottle, added the missing letter in the name of Mimosa Pour Moi and removed the extra one in the name of Firmenich. If you notice any other inaccuracies, please feel free to report it.

Two corners on the 1st and 4th floors of the department store, the first is owned by Rive Gauche and sells at a discount on a gold card mainstream niche perfumes like Serge Lutens and Byredo; on the 4th, the fragrances are more expensive, largely due to the Tsvetnoy mark-up.

Member of the Bosco family with three cosmetics and perfume stores. Specifically, for a niche, it’s better to go to GUM, where there are Jo Malone, Diptyque, and selective lines of brands like Chanel and Guerlain