What is a niche and selective perfume. What is selective perfume - an overview of brands and reviews

The popularity of selective perfumery is growing rapidly, as it is not focused on the usual tastes of the majority. Her creation built on the principle of the individual sound of perfume on human skin. Selective, or niche, perfumery is designed to narrow circle her true connoisseurs.

What are selective and niche perfumes

To understand what selective or niche perfumes mean, you need to know what perfume products are today. conditionally divided into the following groups:

What characteristic of a niche perfume:

Review of the best selective perfume brands for women

Armel

Bright selective women's perfume of the Armel brand from the Amplua series is designed for lovers of explosive smells. Moreover, there is an opinion that these are one of the most attractive. This is due to the use of essences not only of plant but also of animal origin.

The perception of these smells ranges from admiration to complete rejection, and when choosing them, you should listen to the recommendations of experts. If this is your scent, then you will enjoy it. play of scents of satin cedar, leather, vetiver, musk and nulu balsam. Lovers of floral fragrances similar to Flora will be enchanted by Armel 122 with its fresh citrus, sweetness of peony and rose on a base of patchouli and sandalwood.

Molecule

Judging by the rave reviews, this is one of the legends of selective perfumes. Its aromatic composition, mixed with the natural smell of the skin, creates unique and sensual fragrance. Barely perceptible at first, after a while it suddenly strikes the sense of smell with its bright sound.

The basis of the Molecule is the synthetic element Iso E Super, provoking an amazing play of smells. At the very heart of the perfume, there is a subtle scent of iris, which fills the main woody note with a tart and spicy sound.

Montal

Among the selective perfumes of the Montal house, which have absorbed warmth and charm, Montale Roses Musk is especially popular. Unique, durable and an exquisite fragrance created for charismatic women, for each of them sounding differently. This stunning effect is achieved with the help of three notes in its composition: dominant, but delicate and alluring rose, spicy musk and jasmine.

Amouage

Each of the selective fragrances of the famous Amouage house, which embodies all the luxury of oriental fragrances, is unique in its own way:

Keiko Mecheri

Niche perfumery from Keiko, permeated with Eastern philosophy and Western cosmopolitanism, recognized as true art without borders. The extravagant composition of scents from Keiko is openly in dissonance with well-known perfume brands.

Among the favorite perfumes, the fragrances of the seductive Iris Pourpre and the emancipated Datura Blanche stand out, driving you crazy scents of tart pomegranate, musk, Indian sandalwood, amber haze, osmanthus and wild blackcurrant.

Odori

Luxurious Fragrances Italian brand Odori about a dozen, but each of them is a masterpiece. Tabacco, Iris, Cuoio and other Odori perfumes gravitate toward vanilla, honey, caramel and all kinds of citrus. As you can see from the photo, each bottle of Odori selective perfume is framed by expensive wood packaging and sealed with a genuine leather cap.

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…Those who have encountered such perfumery no longer return to the familiar world of elite fragrances. In the view of people who were not particularly interested in exclusive perfumes, this is something insanely fancy and expensive - that is, a kind of special toy for fashionable loafers who are fed up with the usual normal Dior, Chanel or Kenzo. Meanwhile, everything is the other way around: fashionable loafers buy, first of all, widely advertised novelties of famous brands, while the main sign of exclusive, or, as it is also called, niche or selective (Latin selectio - choice, selection of the best) perfumery, is practically complete absence of advertising, especially traditional advertising with top models and movie stars on billboards and glossy spreads. Luxury perfumery - Chanel, Christian Dior, Guerlain, Lancome, Valentino, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, etc. Top brands appear in fashion magazines. They are widely known, but are not selective, even despite the high prices. In addition, these brands are represented in almost every perfumery and cosmetics store (yes, they all also produce cosmetics, unlike selective manufacturers). And selective brands, in order to remain niche perfumes, have no more than 250 points of sale of their products around the world. Due to such a limited production, selectives are practically not counterfeited, which is quite expensive, so such fragrances simply cannot be widely available. The high cost is explained not only by the limited release of goods on the market, but also by the use of unique high-quality raw materials. " Let's first understand what luxury perfumery is. Such great fashion brands as Chanel, Dior, Prada classify their perfumes as luxury. If their clothes really are, then fragrances are mass-produced, low-cost, assembly-line production with posh advertising campaigns to back them up. As for the selective, it's always stories, it's always a deep idea, a concept. But the main thing is the other quality of the product. The cost of the components is an order of magnitude higher, they are natural. No ads! All value is inside the bottle, not around it. Having tried a selective fragrance, then it is impossible to switch to something from the mass segment, even if it is labeled luxury!"- once said the founder of the brand Byredo Ben Gorham in an interview with Fashion & Beauty magazine.

Have you decided to draw your attention to the celebrities of the circle of selective manufacturers? Then start with the most famous selective brands in your circle: Amouage, Annick Goutal, Diptyque, Byredo, E. Coudray, Erno Laszlo, Frederic Malle, Il Profumo, Jo Malone, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Miller Harris, Montale, Parfums de Rosine, Penhaligon, Serge Lutens. Knowledge about these fragrances is passed from mouth to mouth, like the secret conspiracies of some sorceress. This is perfumery for the elite...

Complexity or simplicity

Throughout the 20th century, perfumery has been steadily turning from an elite product, accessible only to the bourgeoisie, into a mass product, accessible to everyone. By the 90s, this process reached its climax - the ban on the use of substances of animal origin and the flourishing of the chemical industry led to the fact that the price per 1 ml laid down by marketers when creating a new product was steadily decreasing, which means that natural components were replaced by synthetics. -chesky, and expensive synthetic-chesky on cheap synthetic. And, of course, globalization and the process of simplification, acceleration and unification common to all traditional industries, which had an irreversible effect on the art of composing scents: fragrances began to be released with the same frequency as clothing collections - several pieces per season, then as before, it took two or three years to create each fragrance in decent houses. As a result, we got a well-proportioned perfume series, mostly designed for the average youth taste, that is, moderately fresh, moderately sweet, moderately light, moderately cheerful, moderately sexy and extremely “politically correct”.

Selective perfumery, despite its high quality, is not liked by everyone because of its unconventionality. Many selective perfumes are very "difficult" to perceive and are, so to speak, fragrances "for an amateur". An unprepared person can simply jump off Norma Kamali Incense from Norma Kamali, Oud Queen Rose from Montale or Gold pour femme from Amouage. Moreover, he will be frightened precisely by the smell, and not by the price. Maybe the chosen perfume will simply be "not yours", or maybe you have not yet grown up to a special, "perfume-yachny" perception of aromas. Interest in cult and exclusive fragrances implies not only and not so much fashion, but knowledge and, oddly enough, culture. For the most part, connoisseurs of such perfumery are people who are distinguished by intelligibility and aesthetics, a special sensitivity to smells and their components.

Niche brands were created as an alternative to the products of international mega-brands, their relationship can be formulated something like this: commercially win-win mediocrity and flourishing complexity. There - astronomical advertising budgets, photo models, cheap synthetic components and total distribution, here - word-of-mouth promotion on the principle "for those who understand", sales in a strictly limited number of places and the cost of components is more than 1 c.u. e. for 1 ml. In the first case the lion's share the price you pay for a bottle is often the cost of advertising with a hot top model, in the second - natural ingredients, including the rarest and most valuable. If Dior, Davidoff or Bulgary are like perfume brands, which are often created by perfume corporations unknown to the general public, then almost all niche brands are created exclusively as perfume brands and are built around one or more perfumers. And therefore rigid conceptuality- an inalienable property of the best of them. They are alive - and therefore behave on the skin in the most unexpected way. They do not try to be fashionable - on the contrary, they look defiantly out of date or emphatically provocative. Such brands sell not just a smell or a glossy advertising image, but a complex product consisting of ideas, emotions, and memories. The concept of a brand can be as simple as a construction game: monoscents that can be mixed with each other, or more complex, such as scents that correspond to certain memories or emotions, scents that revive old perfume traditions. Conceptuality determines and, as a rule, a single bottle design for all fragrances of the line.

Traditions are very important in this topic, mostly niche perfumery is found where there is a serious perfumery tradition, mainly in France, England or Italy. There is also Japanese perfumery, but this, like Japanese food or Japanese cosmetics, is a completely different story. English perfumery traditions are less refined than French ones, English smells are simpler and more distinct, not as "twisted" as French ones, which, by the way, many people like - the difference here is about the same as between French and English food. Italian perfumery is light, as they say, unobtrusive and quite traditional, without any special undertakings.

One of the main signs of niche perfumery is uncompromisingness: its creators like to say that any conformism is alien to them, that they make scents not for the needs of marketing or PR, but purely from their own ideas about beauty. It must be admitted that this is true: these brands were created primarily as a space for free perfumery creativity outside the Procrustean bed of megabrands. The famous perfumer Serge Lutens, the creator of one of the most popular beggar brands, told how he started making perfumes, then for the Shiseido brand: “At that time, I was still too timid to dare and insist on my choice of ingredients. To all my proposals, I systematically received the answer: "Oh, not that! Impossible!" Exclusive brands follow the exact opposite principle: everything is possible, and the more unusual, special, the better.

Retro style

Among the selectives there is a whole group of brands that create rare scents in vintage (from the French - vintage - antiques in a modern interpretation) style - "like from an old dressing table." Almost all such fragrances are positioned as old, with a rich history (real or invented), or as a "return to tradition".

One of the very first, well-known and well-deserved brands - French L "Artisan Parfumeur . It was created by the famous perfumer Jean Laporte in 1976. Laporte proclaimed his inspiration as "the long tradition of French perfume art". Strict bottles from L "Artisan with a gold cap look quite old-fashioned. The first smell he created in 1978 is Mure et Musc (" Blackberry and Musk“) literally made a splash: he reproduced the feeling of a summer garden, ripe berries and leaves heated in the sun. To others, it seems to be the smell of a grandmother's cottage, to a third - something else just as personal and pleasant. Since then, each L "Artisan fragrance has been accompanied by a story of some memories that it is designed to resurrect, everyone must convey a whole range of sensations. Dzing! - the dry and harsh smell of the circus arena and backstage, leather, ginger and musk. Passage D "Enfer (" Road to hell“) is the smell of the millennium, created in 1999, when everyone was talking about the end of the world: incense as a sign of the heavenly and divine and musk as a sign of the bodily and diabolical. La Chasse aux Papillons Butterfly hunting“) is a very unusual and one of the most popular fragrances of the brand, reminiscent of a summer vacation in Normandy. Many of them do not have a distinct vintage look at all and, on the contrary, look very modern. All L’Artisan fragrances are filled in the same cute bottles and differ only in the color of the name sticker.

One of the merit L "Artisan Parfumeur lies in their innovative pathos - they introduced many smells into perfumery, for example, they were the first to create a fragrance based on figs - Premier Figuier ("Young Figs"), figs have since become extremely popular among selectives, and in 2004 - scented eau de toilette pineapple Ananas Fizz ("Carbonated pineapple"). At the end of 2005 they held a very conceptual action. Any fragrance based on natural raw materials will vary depending on the quality of these raw materials, which does not happen year after year. And so L "Artisan bought up the entire Tunisian crop of orange blossoms, which turned out to be outstanding this year, and launched a series called Grand Cru, deciding to apply the principles of winemaking to perfumery - the value determines the year of harvest. So the first of them appeared - Fleur d "Orange 2005. Tunisian orange blossom was enough for 2990 bottles, each of which is numbered, in a few years they will certainly be sold at perfume auctions. In 2006, the next one came out - this time from daffodils. What else to say about this wonderful brand? Many wonderful perfumers have worked and are working with L "Artisan, and there is nothing better for getting to know selectives - among more than 30 items, everyone will find something of their own, besides, they are all unisex. And one more thing: they have a wonderful flagship boutique in Paris , exactly opposite the Louvre, where it is very good to train in distinguishing notes of smells: jars with essences and all kinds of natural raw materials are lined up there.

Jean Francois Laporte Created another brand Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier („Master of Perfumery and Gloves"), in order to revive historical traditions perfumery art. Using only rare and high-quality natural ingredients, Laporte created an exquisite perfume line based on a 17th century formula. It was a "golden age" for the profession of perfumer. At that time, there were 250 glove perfumers in Paris, who worked in accordance with the guild charter granted to them by King Louis XIV. In their shops they sold perfumed gloves, the epitome of the elegance of the era, aromatic essences, hair powder and cosmetics. Their shops, mostly concentrated in the historic center of Paris, were richly decorated with elegant furniture and armchairs, walls covered with Spanish leather, marble floors, decorative mosaics and soft lighting. The quintessence of sophisticated elegance. When customers came to buy their perfumes, they would linger briefly in the "boutique" to chat while the perfumer filled their order. Hence the name "perfume salon" or "perfumery cabinet". This painting inspired the creator of the Parisian boutique Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier. He decided to recreate exactly the atmosphere of a 17th-century “perfumery cabinet”, where gold, dark green and raspberry red hues dominated the interior design.

Fragrances Maitre Parfumeur they fully correspond to their concept: they are complex, often heavy, intricately revealed on the skin (like all natural fragrances) and very French - in a word, absolutely magnificent and very memorable. For example, Eau de Gantier ("Water of the Glover") is very unusual, combining currants and raspberries with musk, sandalwood and ambergris. Maitre Parfumeur has several musks in general - there is Fraicher Muskussime ("Fresh Musk"), there is Sanguine Muskussime ("Musk Red Orange"), there is Rose Muskussime ("Musk Rose"). The brand has a lot of very effective masculine scents that picky women like to use (correct perfume people say “wear”). Now Jean-Paul Millet Lage is engaged in the brand. Perfumes Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier is distinguished by high quality workmanship, original compositions created using natural and expensive components.

One of the most honored French selection companies - diptyque(Diptik), created in Paris in 1968 by three friends: Desmond Knox-Leet, Yves Couslan and Christian Gautreau. The same familiar story - a perfume recipe of the 16th century accidentally found in an old tome, on the basis of which the first product was created - L "Eau (simply" Water "). Then they had many more hits: for example, pink-spicy Opone, enthusiastic citrus-strawberry Oyedo, fig Philosykos.The brand is fashionable, especially famous for its aroma candles: If you look at a photo essay from the house of a star in Vogue magazine, you will definitely see them in the photo of the bathroom or bedroom. If you're watching Sex and the City, it's Diptyque candles that will stand at the head of Carrie Bradshaw's bed, ready for another date. Once you have experienced the sensual scents of Diptyque candles - herbal, floral, woody and fruity - you will no longer be able to live in a fresh world. “It's like a drug, only in a good way,” jokes current Diptyque managing director Mohamed Latoua. Natural origin of all essences used diptyque, precious ingredients that are almost impossible to obtain, and the very best noses making perfect combinations are what make fragrances diptyque- a cult. In addition to loyal customers (sometimes already in the third generation) of the world-famous perfumed candles, the house of Diptyque has a huge number of fans of body fragrances. The first eau de toilette was released in 1968 and was called very simply - L'Eau. It is a spicy blend of cinnamon, geranium, sandalwood, rose and clove. It was followed in 1973 by L'Autre, a very dry and sensual blend of Middle Eastern spices, and in 1975 by L'Eau Trois, inspired by the resinous aromas of vegetation from the coast of northern Greece. In 1975 diptyque created a unique Vinaigre de Toilette ("toilet vinegar"), toning the body and softening the skin, which can also be used as a hair rinse.

diptyque is more than a legend. In its 40 years of existence, Diptyque has become an iconic French fragrance house. Superstars, presidents and the fashion elite adore Diptyque's exquisite body and home fragrances and, of course, the famous scented candles. In 1961, three friends Desmond Knox-Leet, Christian Gautreau and Yves Couelan opened a hand-dyed fabric shop. Their original idea was to sell cotton fabrics that they designed themselves. But this idea did not touch the hearts of Parisian snobs. Then the friends came up with a fresh idea to sell candles along with the fabrics, corresponding to the bright colors of the materials. On the advice of a candlemaker, in 1963 they created the first hawthorn and pine scented candles. Perfumed candles - no one had heard of such a thing at that time. Today, the Diptyque line has 48 different fragrances - this is the largest collection in the world.

Among the many lovers of Diptyque masterpieces that this house has ever had are Elton John, Princess Diana, ex-President of France Francois Mitterrand, Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer, Liz Hurley, Donatella Versace, Karl Lagerfeld, Catherine Deneuve, Kate Moss and Kristin Scott Thomas. Diptyque has created signature scented candles for his great friend and most devoted customer, John Galliano. Diptyque also has some of the most beautiful Victorian style labels. Therefore, the fact that John Galliano's personal fragrance was released under this brand is practically a regularity.

Another popular selective project is the brand amouage . This project is Arabic, created in 1988, from the Sultan of Oman, who was concerned about the revival of national perfumery traditions (in ancient times and in the Middle Ages they were really strong). The project was conceived on a feudal scale: the sultan called on the famous Frenchman Guy Robert, a third-generation perfumer who created Dioressence (Dior), Madame Rochas (Rochas) and many other hits, suggesting that he “do not deny himself anything” - use any ingredients of any cost. What Guy Robert did, using such precious ingredients as, for example, silver incense. Robert created the first Amouage fragrance - Gold, and then the brand developed independently. The most expensive perfume in the Amouage line is Crystal Gold. Perfume House Omana advertises her creations under the slogan "The most valuable perfume in the world".

Today amouage— is no longer the leader in price. The brand remains the leader in use natural ingredients. The development of perfumery amouage was created by the legendary French perfumer Guy Robert. In the process of creation, he used more than 120 natural ingredients from around the world. The basis of Amouage perfumery is the incense of the Dofar Mountains. Crystal Gold can be considered a classic oriental fragrance. Base notes: Arabian stone rose and silvery incense. The gifts of the Magi in the trinity: gold, myrrh and frankincense. From the rich evening aroma breathes "traditions of antiquity". Powdery and woody notes of violet root, cedar and sandalwood, sensuality of ambergris, civet and musk make you believe in the naturalness of each component. The male version is complemented by oak moss and patchouli. To bring the fragrance closer to the chypre composition, woody notes are enhanced. Amouage is not to be "put on" with jeans and a T-shirt. A formal suit is required. It is better if you look older than 35 years. Expensive exclusive silver bottle is made in the form of a saber handle of an Arab blade (khanjar or dagger). The bottle can be 24 carat gold plated.

amouage often provokes diametrically opposite reactions: he has ardent admirers who consider these richest fragrances the pinnacle of perfumery art, and equally ardent opponents who call them "kitsch, flashy and vulgar". But no one remains indifferent - these smells are from the category of "the girl passed - everyone noticed." In addition, Amouage is famous for its bottles, which are covered with different types gold and precious stones (English court jewelers were mobilized for this). We love the brand very much - our people are close to solid oriental luxury.

French stamp Montale also related to the Middle East. Its creator, Pierre Montal Dolgove, once did business there, and then returned to Paris and converted all his oriental impressions into bizarre fragrances that unfold very unexpectedly on the skin. The greatest French perfumer Pierre Montal lived in Saudi Arabia for 3 years and worked for the most influential sheikhs of the Arabian Peninsula. Montale reminiscent of oriental attars - traditional Arabic perfumery, which does not use alcohol, but only mixtures various oils(aloe trees, roses, jasmine, etc.). The bottles of this brand are made of aluminum (so that the fragrance does not deteriorate under the influence of light) and look quite original. Montale has some very worthy smells - for example, on numerous perfume forums they praise their patchouli (Patchouli Leaves) and vetiver (Vetiver des Sables), they have two interesting musks - ginger (Ginger Musk) and white (White Musk). A special pride of the brand is a line of fragrances based on the oil of the oriental oud tree, which really cannot be confused with anything even by a person who is absolutely insensitive to perfumery. The sole perfumery of Arabian kings and sultans since the beginning of time, with attractants that increase sexual attractiveness. Perfumery Montale created for Arab kings, queens, sultans and princesses with the rarest and most precious fragrances, according to ancient tradition oriental perfumery.

Montale presents the precious fragrances of Arabia in metal bottles. Precious woods, frankincense, amber, precious aromatic oils are combined in fragrances that look like a magic potion or a love potion. Montale perfumes are the most concentrated and long lasting. Is 3 main lines: oud line, men's line and women's line.

Oud oil used in the perfumery of the East since ancient times. Oriental fragrances with oud tree oil ("OUD PUR ORIENTAL" - "Pure oud tree oil"; "OUD CUIR D" ARABIE" - "Arabian leather oil"; "ROYAL OUD" - " royal oil»; "OUD QUEEN FLOWERS" - "Royal Flowers Oil"; "OUD AMBRE" - "Amber oil" and "ATTAR" - "Essential oil of attar") is the pinnacle of perfumery art. old recipe, known to a small circle of initiates. A scented ointment from Arabia, extracted from the roots of the oud tree and aged for several years in a special pit, protected from temperature extremes and sunlight: in a secret way from which oud oil is later obtained: a mystical fragrance with aphrodisiac properties. Arabic fragrances made with oud tree oils are a thousand year old secret process known to a very small number of people. Its tenderness and wealth are determined by its antiquity. Each of the lines consists of the most noble, environmentally friendly and natural ingredients: Citrus fruits from Italy, Bulgarian rose, French rose, Turkish rose, satin cedar wood, Mysore sandalwood, spices, white musk, amber, Oliban pearls. Perfumery Arab sheikhs and Sultans mysterious and attractive. The 50 ml aluminum bottle in a black silk bag has been specially designed to protect fragrances from light. Each of the fragrances is a work of art, a particle of the world of harmony; refined, refined symbiosis of the combination of East and West.

In 2006, Montale Paris introduced a new perfume Aromatic Lime. As the name suggests, this perfume is a variation on the theme of citrus. An unexpected and rarely used in perfumery combination of citrus and woody notes is the essence of this fragrance. It contains notes of Sicilian lime, cedar, sandalwood with herbal and green notes.

brand Les Parfumes de Rosine also based on tradition and history. Its creators strive to revive the tradition of creating fragrances of the old Les Parfumes de Rosine, which in 1911 was created by the famous Parisian fashion designer Paul Poiret. Now the granddaughter of Napoleon III Marie-Helene Rougeon is engaged in the project. Having worked for some time in Maisons such as Givenchy and Pierre Balmain, Marie-Hélène Rougeon introduced Parfums de Rosine as a response to women's need for a new, more individual and selective approach to perfumery. All the company's fragrances are built around the airy smell of a summer rose, ranging from Damask to Bulgarian rose. Les Parfum de Rosine are fragrances that offer French personality, quality, beauty, elegance and lightness. All this symbolizes the rose flower. The fragrances of the brand are very beautiful and reminiscent of old perfumes, and for rose lovers, Les Parfumes de Rosine is just a godsend. The fragrances of the brand Les Parfumes de Rosine are recognized all over the world as the most interesting pink arrangements- no one else has such a variety of variations of this smell. They are also highly regarded for the quality of perfume products made with natural oils and luxurious packaging.

Of these brands, one can also name Histoires de Parfums in the popular style of old French perfumery. Histoires de Parfums is the brand that dedicates its creations to the traditions, famous personalities and way of life of the 17th-19th centuries. For example, you can choose perfumes dedicated to those personalities, echoes, whose character traits you feel in yourself. If you consider yourself a passionate dreamer, like George Sand, your fragrance is 1804. The personal perfume of the writer is fragrant with notes of fruits and flowers, amber and spices. What adds spirits of sensuality and firmness. For fatal beauties Histoires de Parfums takes the image of Mata Hari (Margareta Geertruyda Zelle, 1876-1917) - the famous dancer and spy - and creates an oriental elixir - "1876". Histoires de Parfums also bottles and male characters. Romantic - the captivating story of Casanova in 1725, the muscular and passionate character of the Marquis de Sade in 1740, a strong cocktail of adventure and freshness in memory of Jules Verne - 1828. Histoires de Parfums endows fragrance and color. "Blank Violette" - powdery violet, "Noir Patchouli" - mystical patchouli, "Vert Pivoine" - elegant peony. For the home, Histoires de Parfums also stocks perfumes, candles, incense sticks and all kinds of essences.

Let's remember the beautiful English stamp Pecksniff's and her wonderful feminine fragrance Floriental, a very interesting brand, also English Czech & Speek, once Hungarian, Patyka (five stylized vintage perfumes, with the highest content of natural ingredients), Italian Carthusia , as well as a new series of fragrances entirely dedicated to the city of New York Bond No.9 and in a separate line - Comme des Garcons.

Even though the odors Comme des Garcons are sold in any chain store, the brand has more 6 lines, which are sold only in her boutiques, and these smells, without any discounts, are selective: Leaves („ Leaves“, dedicated respectively to the leaves of lily, mint, sudza and tea); Red (everything is made from red ingredients: red flowers, mahogany, red fruits and red spices); "philosophical" line Incense (from Japanese - incense, incense), the so-called religious or spiritualistic series, dedicated to the most famous religious centers - Avignon, Indian Jaisalmir, Kyoto, Moroccan Cuarzazate and our Zagorsk; Cologne (three colognes in the style of the XVIII century - anbar, that is, amber, vetiver and citrus); Sherbet ("edible" smells - cinnamon, mint, rhubarb) and a synthetic series that made a lot of noise ( tar, sky, dry cleaning, soda and garage). Everything, as you can already see from the names, is rigidly conceptual, the most popular being “religious” and “synthetic”.

Fragrance line Incense from Comme des Garcons is a perfumery respect to the ancient cities: the fragrances are called Avignon (France or the Essence of Vice), Ouarzazate (Morocco or the Neutral Strip), Jaisalmer (India or the Lost City) and... - Zagorsk (Russia or the Russian Monastery). Each fragrance of the line is inspired by the main spiritual teachings of humanity. Smells in black glossy bottles evoke a chain of associations, setting you up for reflection and spiritual quest. For thousands of years, people all over the world have burned incense to honor ancestors, purify the air, accompany rituals, or simply for the sheer pleasure it brings. The new fragrance Incense Kyoto also embodies a spiritual quest. The fragrance is reminiscent of "a spiritual journey to the serene temples of the city known as the Heart of Japan". Buddhism and Sintaism. Dry and calm, infused with the sophistication of smoky vetiver and the wisdom of juniper, basking in the serenity of notes of cypress, cedar and coffee. Aroma "for meditation".

Etat Libre d'Orange- a new line of niche perfumes, the release of which products began in France in September 2006. The line includes 6 unisex fragrances: Jasmin et Cigarette (perfumer Antoine Maisondieu). Base notes are jasmine absolute, tobacco, oats, apricot, tonka bean, tumeric, cedar and musk; Encens & Bubblegum (perfumer Antoine Maisondieu). Main notes: raspberry, peach, lily of the valley, orange, vanilla, musk, incense; Vraie Blonde (perfumer Antoine Maisondieu). The fragrance is built on a combination of notes of aldehydes, champagne, rose, peach, white pepper, myrrh, patchouli, suede; Secretions Magnifiques (perfumer Antoine Lie). Base notes - iod? chord, adrenaline chord, bloody chord, milky accord, notes of iris, sandalwood, opopanax; Je Suis Un Homme by Antoine Lie. Base notes: bergamot, bitter orange, citron, myrtle, cinnamon, carnation, cognac accord, leather, patchouli, animalistic notes; Putain des Palaces (perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer). Base notes: pink absolute, violet, leather, lily of the valley, mandarin, ginger, rice powder, amber, animalistic notes.

Perfumer's name

The next type of niche fragrances are personalized brands, usually named after their creators. And here there are a number of brands that formally fit here, but conceptually belong more to the first group. These are the British Creed and Penhaligon's, as well as the French E. Coudray.

All promotional brochures Creed venerable family perfumery traditions associated with the colonial era are described. However, from many connoisseurs of perfume history, I have heard great doubts about the existence of these traditions. Nevertheless, Creed makes decent, typically English smells - clean and distinct, fully consistent with their names. True, the brand has several fragrances, invented with intricacy unusual for the British - these are the rich colonial Santal Imperial and Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie.

London Penhaligon's- a classic English perfume brand, without any doubt: the hairdresser William Henry Penhaligon supplied perfumes to the royal court and to the homes of the British nobility. Here, too, almost all the smells correspond to the names written on the label: lily, bluebells, lily of the valley, English farm. Almost no surprises, although there are a few fancier options like Malabah or Artemisia. The first smell of Penhaligon's was called Hammam Bouquet and, according to one version, was the first oriental smell in the history of perfumery. Any sales assistant of the brand, presenting smells, will tell you that this is Princess Diana's favorite smell (bells), this one is Sting (Quercus), and this Alexander Rosenbaum buys two bottles a month from us (Hammam Bouquet).In principle, English smells can be defined quite simply - for those who do not like French ones, the classic opposition "English-French" works here quite clearly: striving for elegance and brilliance vs sanity and clarity (sometimes, however, not without eccentricities).

Scent By Alexis - created by hand, piece perfumes - a special category in the world of elite perfumery. New Yorker Alexis Karl is a true fragrance artist creating exclusive perfume oils. His latest creation is called Courtesan and, according to the author, was inspired by "the image of the temptress of the Renaissance." At the heart of the fragrance is violet flirting with green tea, and an orchid. Femme Fatale - the fragrance is inspired by the image of a femme fatale from the 30s. In its composition - amber, nutmeg, ylang-ylang, a touch of jasmine, vanilla, a mixture secret ingredients. All this makes Femme Fatale a dangerously seductive fragrance.

Annick Goutal - the famous name brand was created by the former French model Annick Goutal. The success story of the brand is classic for niche perfumery. A person simply starts doing what he really likes, and as a result he does it so well that others like it. Annick Gutal is the daughter of a confectioner, an excellent perfumer and a very family girl. Gutal made all her fragrances for or because of someone: Passion (tuberose and jasmine from Grasse) are dedicated to her first husband, Grand Amour (lily, hyacinth, jasmine, Turkish rose) and Sands are just some a magical scent for the second, Eau de Camille (garden after the rain: freshly cut grass, jasmine, verbena, honeysuckle) made for the daughter, and Eau de Charlotte for the stepdaughter. Basically a family album. Now the fragrances of this brand are made by Annick's daughter Camilla.

Edmond Coudray, founder of the brand E. Coudray , was a chemist, and in the 19th century the brand was included in the French top. During the reign of Louis XVIII, Edmond Coudray was honored to become the official supplier of colognes, creams, soaps, lipsticks and other "beauty products" to the royal courts of England, Italy, Austria, Portugal, Brazil, Russia. Soon his best creations were born: "The Queen's Dream", "Royal Bouquet" and the famous "Divine Water", to this day dearly loved by his fans. This brand, along with such as L. T. Piver, Houbigant, Guerlain, quickly became one of the most famous and entered the top five best brands perfumery of the 19th century. Then the brand actually disappeared and was revived only in the 70s. Of course, the old fragrance formulas have been modernized and renamed, but their distinct antiquity has been preserved: they are all whimsical and elegant in French style. The bottle is a replica of the crystal

Art Nouveau original. Over time, E. Coudray House has changed and developed: recipes have been revised, new lines have appeared, some famous fragrances have been modified, the formulas of which have been carefully stored in the archives for many decades. One of the best creations was a wonderful perfumed body cream, which laid the foundation for the bath line and its "boudoir" concept. The E. Coudray Perfume House has entered the third millennium, paying tribute to the company's traditions and remaining as attractive to women as it was in the days of Louis XVIII.

brand Erno Lazlo — selective cosmetics and perfumes of the highest level, created by dermatologist Erno Laszlo. It is worth noting that Nicole Kidman and Madonna use the products of this particular brand.

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle is a brand that most fully embodies the philosophy of selective fragrances. Frédéric Mahle, a man who had nothing to do with the creation of perfumery, simply gathered nine famous perfumers and invited them to make scents of their own choosing. And all this - solely for the love of art, not caring in the least about promotion, sales dynamics and general profitability of the project. The result is fifteen extraordinary scents, each of which is a work of perfume art so much that it makes no sense to mention individual names. Any self-respecting connoisseur and lover of perfume tries to collect the entire collection at least in samples, it's like an academic collected works of a classic for a bibliophile. The ideal embodiment of an ideal project is, unfortunately, not available in Russia.

There are selective brands that were made by famous people who want to create space for themselves to freely create, the most famous of them are the brands of Serge Lutens ( Serge Lutens) and Jean-Claude Ellena - the best "nose" of France. First for a long time worked as art director and image consultant Shiseido, and in 2000 created his own brand Serge Lutens. Especially for the perfumery images invented by Lutens for Shiseido, the Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido store was created in Paris, which Lutens himself decorated. It is there that the full range of his bewitching perfumes is now sold, and only part of it (14 smells) is included in the export line. The one sold in Paris is called “bells” among perfume fans (because of the bottles and round cap), the one that is sold in the rest of the world is called “coffins” (for the same reason); both are a desirable subject for them. The scents of Lutens are truly fabulous and unlike anything else. Lutens himself - a man of a purely French aesthetic type, a melancholic and admirer of Baudelaire - permanently lives in Marrakesh, where he has a house that looks like a museum and a picturesque garden. Accordingly, all perfumes of the brand are oriental: but these are not original local traditions, not the eastern East, but the western East, passed through the filter of the venerable European tradition of mastering oriental aesthetics, that is, orientalist. That is why Lutens is devotedly adored even by people who, in principle, do not like oriental perfumes. Almost every smell of it - powdery Clair de Musc, Datura Noir with the smell of dope, honey Miel de Bois, Daim Blond with the smell of suede, woody Cedre - is a hit, and each is the flesh of the flesh of the great French perfumery tradition. The best way to describe the impression of Lutens fragrances is with the help of an oxymoron - a trendy classic.

Unlike Lutens, who comes up with a perfume image, but does not create fragrance formulas himself, Jean-Claude Ellena ( Jean-Claude Ellena) is one of the most honored living perfumers. Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena can work on five compositions at once. In France, such people are called "nose" for their unique sense of smell, memory for smells, the ability to decompose the fragrance into notes and compose the desired melody from them. There are no more than 80 of them, marked for free. The lead perfumer of Hermes, as the once great Edmond Rudnitska ( Edmond Roudniska). Only Chanel can afford the luxury of having a court alchemist. Jacques Polge was a legend and a myth during his lifetime. Other world famous companies invite perfumers from outside, from Givaudan, IFF or Firmenich. Ellena has an exemplary biography of a perfumer. His father taught him the trade. At the age of 17, Jean-Claude joined the work. A notable success and milestone in his biography was First by Van Cleef and Arpels, which he created while at Givaudan in 1976. Ellena likes to talk about how at first she used up to 150 components, and today only 10-20. It is important for him not to collect a giant colorful bouquet, but to find a unique, elegantly simple solution. The perfumer's track record includes L'Eau Parfume by Bvlgari, Declaration by Cartier and Cologne Bigarade by Frederic Malle. Ellena has been working with the German company Symrise for a long time.

Jean-Claude Ellena named his own brand very conceptually - The Different Company , which sounds like the motto of all selectives - “Another company” (or “Special company”, which does not diminish the conceptuality). Ellena lives in the main French perfume center - Grasse, his family business - they make fragrances with her daughter Celine. There are only five fragrances, each named after the main component - Osmanthus, Bois d "Iris, Rose Poivree, Bergamote, Jasmin de Nuit, each is pronounced peppery, each has a huge percentage of natural oils, and each makes a strong impression. People collect TDC smells in the same way, like the Frédéric Malle collection.The packaging design was made by the famous Parisian designer Thierry de Bashmakoff - each massive and heavy Glass bottle wrapped in black leather.

french brand perfume M.Micallef - an amazing combination of art and divine smell. Bohemian crystal flacons are hand-painted with sparkling Swarovski crystals. Delightful fragrances and exquisite bottles are the result of a collaboration between two extremely creative and dynamic people living in the French city of Cannes - artist Martine Micallef and her husband Geoffrey Newman. "We work with passion and love to create a fusion of Art and Fragrance," says Martina Micallef. The philosophy of the M. Micallef brand is based on the avant-garde idea proposed by the couple: to give exclusive perfumery a worthy "frame" in the form of unique bottles, hand-painted by Martine Micallef and adorned with Swarovski crystals.

I would like to say about the Italian brand Lorenzo Villoresi . Contrary to what was said above about Italian perfumery in general, this brand makes fragrances bright and full-blooded: very distinct patchouli, strict sandalwood, intriguing incense, thick spices and subtle musk. Perhaps because Viloresi himself has trained himself in creating individual scents for his clients.

French perfume brand Parfums de Nicolai created by Patricia de Nikolai, the granddaughter of one of the Guerlains, namely Pierre Guerlain, who rightfully owns the recognized masterpiece from Guerlain - Rue de la Paix. She is not involved in the family business. De Nicolai's style is markedly different from Guerlain's, her forte is pastel floral bouquets. However, her main success was, perhaps, oriental fruity perfume. Sacre Bleu, who is said to be very fond of Catherine Deneuve (Catherine Deneuve). The aroma begins almost rustic-berry (currant, raspberry, apricot, peaches), if this berry flavor were not flavored with something unidentifiable, aldehyde and green at the same time. And this note gives the whole fruit basket a certain sophistication. And then there is an overflow - jasmine and daffodils begin to sound. At the same time, another rose is added - a delicate coral rose. And powderiness appears - a kind of rose in an intricate powdered hairstyle. But this is only a frame - the main daffodils and jasmine. Fairytale scent!

Keiko Mecheri creating international and very professional fragrances. All perfumes from Keiko Mecheri combine ascetic design and at the same time sensual and luxurious, but always harmonious content. Harmony for Keiko is the main word. It may seem strange at first glance to pair absinthe with vanilla, Russian leather with jasmine, or pomegranate peel with musk, but the magical ability to connect and balance makes these fragrances unusual masterpieces.

English stamps - Miller Harris and Jo Malone. perfumer Lyn Harris, the founder of a very young brand Miller Harris, inspire travel. Her fragrances tell, for example, about a trip to Ibiza - "Figue Amere". The protagonist of the fragrance is a ripe fig surrounded by floral and woody notes. "Fleur du Matin" - morning flower. Lin was inspired to create this fragrance by a trip to an island in the South of France. There is a fragrance dedicated to the restaurant - Saint-Germain, the perfume "Feuilles de Tabac" (from the French - "tobacco leaves"). Although the fragrance may seem truly masculine (allspice, pine needles, white geranium, tobacco leaves, patchouli), it also attracts the attention of women. Especially women who smoke. It doesn't create a stark contrast like frivolous floral or aquatic scents with the smell of a freshly smoked cigarette. In the Miller Harris collection, you can also find perfectly relaxing things - body oil, bath oil and special scented candles to create a relaxing atmosphere. Kate Moss and Kylie Minogue, Helena Bonham Carter, Kristin Scott-Thomas and Sienna Miller are loyal fans of Miller Harris fragrances.

Designer Mary Jo Malone releasing his perfume masterpieces, he professes the philosophy of creating "personal fragrances", fragrances for true connoisseurs that would reflect the state of mind of their owner. Perfume not only for all occasions, but for all moods.

I would also like to mention the legendary brand Perfums d'Orsey, created in the 19th century by the famous Count D "Orsay, and wonderful men's fragrances from Geo F. Trumper. Geo F. Trumper is a well-known trademark in England, created back in 1875 by the royal court barber and barber George F. Trumper, as well as producing colognes and aftershave lotions more than a hundred years ago. Trumper's fragrances - "Astor", "Curzon", "Spanish Leather", "Sandalwood", "Lime Extract", as well as "nominal" - "Marlboro" and "Wellington" - are covered in frosted glass bottles topped with a gold cap in in the form of a crown, and each of them is equipped with a medallion with the inscription "handmade". And these words apply not only to the packaging, but also to what is inside. And if we recall the recent statement by American chemists who believe that it is smells that attract people to each other, Trumper's creations become truly priceless. "Gentlemen's grooming products since 1875" is written on each bottle of this brand. Smells and quality are appropriate. It looks like Geo F.Trumper is an almost win-win gift.

Monosmell

The third group is the most uncomplicated, the least loaded with all sorts of ideas and, in my opinion, the least interesting. This is perfumery, created as an easy entertainment. These are the brands most commonly used. fashion girls, if they still get to the selectives. The concept here is not at all about complexity and naturalness, but often exactly the opposite - these can be smells with a pronounced synthetic image, such as, for example, the brand clean, which has a smell called "Laundry" that smells like laundry detergent. Another typical example is the French brand Comptoir sud Pacific, whose fragrances are bottled in aluminum bottles and divided by color. There is the Vanille series (Vanilla Islands), where all the flavors of the islands, starting with sparkling orange mixed with banana cream, surrounded by a heart note, where clover is mixed with the herbal scent of a banana leaf. A gentle base note combines vanilla and white rum, or Amour de Cacao, which mimics the smell of chocolate brownie, as perfume shop clerks say, the scent they usually recommend to those who ask for something chocolatey. It is for such lovers of synthetic chocolate and other similar things that such brands were invented.

Molinard These are fragrances from Grasse. The history of Molinard dates back to 1848, when the famous chemist Molinard secretly created some excellent fragrances and started selling them in a small shop in the city center. This is how Molinard Jeune perfume was born. In 1855 the Molinard boutique became a large factory that produced and distributed perfumes in France and Europe. In 1900, Molinard opened a classic provincial-style salon, whose first clients were British and Russian nobility, who preferred to relax on the French Riviera in winter. Queen Victoria, during her stay in Grasse, also liked Molinard fragrances. To this day, the Molinard salon, whose interior is decorated with antique furniture of the 16th-18th centuries, is famous for its most famous clients. Molinard's popularity peaked in the 20s and 30s. XX century - the time of the release of luxurious perfumes, the most famous of which were Habanita ( Habanita), created in 1921 and considered one of the most popular in the world to this day. Habanita is different. The evil witch, the good sorceress. Either it takes you into the autumn forest thicket, or it suddenly leaves you "in the midst of a noisy ball." But her breath doesn't stop. Plans and episodes change smoothly and evenly in the game of the imagination. Notes: Powder, white flowers (ylang, jasmine, orange blossom), rose. The balance of the components is perfect. Even in modern processing. Powder, vetiver, patchouli, spices. Powder, vanilla, amber. Leather. Cigar smoke... And Molinard also releases fun flavors... There's tomato-cherry, there's peach-mango...

Molinard is a family business that has grown over the years. To this day, Molinard remains one of the leading perfume houses in the world. The Molinard family business has flourished for five generations and is today a world-famous perfume company. Now the tradition of the Molinard dynasty is continued by Jean-Pierre Lerouge-Benard. Molinard is a member of the French Perfumery Committee and the Fédération Française de Perfumerie, two electoral organizations that guarantee the quality and authenticity of their members' products.

Brands of this variety are brands that often represent a perfume constructor: a set of mono-scents that can be mixed with each other. The budget version of such a toy is the brand Demeter , where they are poured into almost pharmacy bubbles as reproducing natural smells such as tomato tops, mignonette or dust. But there are more noble brands that offer their customers a similar attraction, for example, perfume Etro , which is accompanied by a special brochure with mixing rules, or branded kits NellyRodi Scent Factory, consisting of eight odors, packed in a plastic box lined with foam rubber. Here the smells are quite noble, classic without any snickering - incense, musk, patchouli, etc., and their quality is very worthy.

Italian company Etro known for her experiments with oriental colorfulness and expression in clothes. She extended her original concept of the image of a modern person to the world of smells. Since 1989, Etro fragrances have attracted people of non-standard tastes and interests. The brand's aromatic compositions are based on precious oils - frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood, patchouli, etc. However, its uniqueness lies not so much in their use, but in the unusual combination and strength of its components. As a result, persistent, sometimes spicy, and sometimes fresh flavors, which are so distinctive that Etro perfume cannot be confused with any other. The person who puts on the fragrance seems just as original Etro. The idea of ​​a unique and deeply personal combination of fragrances has found another embodiment. All Etro fragrances are ideal for layering one on top of the other. It is original and exclusive. From now on, fans of the brand can independently try themselves as a perfumer and wear their own, unique fragrance. For the doubters Etro publishes catalogs with tips for creating compositions. All Etro fragrances are ideal for layering one on top of the other. It is original and exclusive. The effect will be amazing. Try wearing more than one fragrance on your skin. The natural essences composed by Etro change on the skin and therefore the fragrance becomes very personal. Colognes have a light, atomized fragrance, eau de toilette is stronger and more persistent.

Not so long ago, a new name appeared in selective perfumery - the brand Le Labo, whose name boutique opened recently in New York, Manhattan. The boutique does not look like the usual perfume shops, it is more like a pharmacy warehouse or a laboratory. There are 10 fragrances with simple names - Iris 39, Fleur d`Oranger 27, Ciste 18, Patchouli 24, Neroli 36, etc. - 3 for men, 3 unisex, 3 for women and one alcohol-free for children. Le Labo was founded by two people who held leadership positions in cosmetic companies. They are united by the desire to create the best product from the highest quality raw materials, and not get carried away with marketing, as is common with many brands. By the way, you can go beyond the presented ephemeral line and create your own fragrance under the guidance of an experienced perfume chemist who works in the boutique. In addition, all ingredients come straight from French Grasse, housed in giant glass bottles and just waiting to be served.

Given the characteristics of mono-scents, you can choose them according to your mood, they will prolong your state of mind. You will be able to fight bad mood or boredom, it is enough to use aromas that evoke pleasant, uplifting associations.

Afterword

Many, when trying exclusive fragrances for the first time, fall into some confusion and say that they have something in common. In reality, the situation is just the opposite - it is that all mass smells have something in common, and the selectives are simply so different from them that the very fact of this striking difference is taken for similarity. After several trips to a store selling selective brands, the situation changes dramatically - already all the usual fragrances seem to be indistinguishable. After some time, you may be surprised to find that you begin to distinguish not only bergamot from vetiver, but even tuberose from just a rose. Well, when there are more than five exclusive bottles in the house, it’s safe to say: you have a strong attachment to what looks like a passion for fine wine, cigars or Chinese tea.

Do you want to be bright? Do you want to remember the scent of your perfume, and then look for it subconsciously on others? Do you want to be unique? Do you want to be different from the rest? Want! Then you need to find your selective!

Article prepared by Natalia Lukyanova
based on materials from electronic and printed publications

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“Perfume is an invisible, but unforgettable, unsurpassed fashion accessory. He announces the appearance of a woman and continues to remind her when she left ... "

(Coco Chanel)

selective cosmetics- exclusive perfumery, not widely known, while leaving its roots in the distant past. Such fragrances are designed for people who want to be unique, stand out from the crowd. Such perfumes are produced in a very limited edition, sometimes reaching single copies. And this is not surprising, because not everyone knows what selective fragrances are. This is a gourmet perfume.

Lively fragrances that behave on the skin in the most unexpected way. They do not try to be fashionable - on the contrary, they look defiant, original, out of date or emphatically provocative. But having encountered them once, you no longer return to the familiar world of mass perfumery. In the minds of people who have never encountered selective perfumery, they think that this is something insanely fancy and expensive, sold in boutiques with designer clothes - that is, some kind of special toy for fashionable loafers who are fed up with the usual normal "Dior", "Chanel" and Kenzo. Meanwhile, everything is not so: fashionable loafers buy, first of all, widely advertised novelties of famous brands, while the main sign of selective, or, as it is also called, niche perfumery, is the almost complete absence of advertising, especially traditional - with top models and movie stars on billboards. and glossy spreads. Translated from Latin selectio– choice, selection of the best. Selective perfumes are a niche of elite perfumery for the elite! For lords and sheikhs, for perfume gourmets, for perfume poets and artists, for perfume collectors, for perfumers, in a word - for those who understand and are able to hear and appreciate the beauty and uniqueness of the sound of a fragrance. Therefore, interest in selectives implies not only and not so much fashion, but "advancement", and, oddly enough, culture. However, it is not at all necessary to be an olfactory maniac to be embarrassed at the thought that this wonderful bottle of "Kenzo" or "Lankom" is being sold in the world at a speed of almost a dozen per second. A person who at least once in front of a standard perfume counter of an ordinary chain store came up with this idea is a potential client of selective brands. Selective brands sell not just a smell or a glossy advertising image, but a complex product consisting of ideas, emotions, memories. Their principle: the more unusual, the better!

Selective fragrances are prepared using natural essential oils and other expensive natural ingredients. Such fragrances are famous for their unique notes woven into a mysterious ornament. Selective fragrances practically do not differ between women and men. Many of these fragrances finally open much later than application. Thus, there is a whole wave of different shades and moods.

Formally, they are divided into groups:

• Classics and lyrics, nostalgia, i.e. return to tradition. These are old smells, with a rich history, real or imagined. For example, such perfume brands L "Artisan Parfumeur(created by renowned perfumer Jean Laporte in 1976) as Passage D "Enfer"Road to Hell" is a millennium scent created in 1999, when everyone was talking about the end of the world: incense as a sign of the heavenly and divine, and musk as a sign of the bodily and devilish. Or La Chasse aux Papillons("Butterfly Hunt") is a very unusual and one of the most popular fragrances of the brand, reminiscent of the summer holidays in Normandy. Many of them do not have a distinct vintage look at all and, on the contrary, look very modern.
• The next kind of selectives are name brands usually named after their creators. Penhaligon's- here is a classic English perfume brand, without any doubt in authenticity: the hairdresser William Henry Penhaligon supplied perfumes to the royal court and to the homes of the British nobility. Here, too, almost all the smells correspond to the names written on the label: lily, bluebells (Princess Diana's favorite smell), lily of the valley, English farm and many other magical aromas. Of course, the old fragrance formulas have been modernized and renamed, but their distinct antiquity has been preserved. Any self-respecting connoisseur and lover of perfume tries to collect the entire collection at least in samples, it's like an academic collected works of a classic for a bibliophile. It can also be included here Serge Lutens, who comes up with a perfume image, but does not create the formulas of fragrances. Almost every scent is powdery. Clair de Musc, Datura Noir with the smell of dope, honey Miel de Bois, Daim Blond suede scent, woody Cedre- a hit, and each - the flesh of the flesh of the great French perfumery tradition. The best way to describe the impression of Lutens fragrances is with the help of an oxymoron - a trendy classic.
• Outrageous fragrances, the third group. This is perfumery, created as an easy entertainment. It is these brands that are most often used by fashionable girls, if they still get to the selectives. The concept here is not at all complex and natural, but often exactly the opposite - these can be smells with a pronounced synthetic image, like, for example, the Clean brand, which has a smell called "Laundry", smelling of washing powder. Another typical example is the French brand Comptoir sud Pacifique, whose fragrances are bottled in aluminum bottles and divided by color. She has, for example, the smell of Amour de Cacao, which reproduces the smell of chocolate cake, as the sellers of perfume stores say, this is the smell they usually recommend to those who ask for something chocolate. It is for such lovers of synthetic chocolate and other similar things that such brands were invented. There is another type of stamps of this variety - stamps that are a perfume constructor: a set of mono-scents that can be mixed with each other.

We have long been accustomed to the fact that on the shelves in stores you can find a huge selection of luxury perfumes from Yves Saint Laurent, and you, too, will surely find such a bottle. But not everyone knows about the Oriental Collection selective line - this is also YSL perfumery, only more complex and expensive, “for the elite”. We have no doubt that you will appreciate it! We especially liked Supreme Bouquet, an incredibly feminine and sensual fragrance that suits both daytime and evening outings. In its heart is tuberose, which gives it a special sound, and auxiliary notes are pear, pink pepper, ylang-ylang, amber and musk. Mm!..

Price: 13,000 rubles (80 ml)

Sunshine by Amouage

Amouage fragrances are already a symbol of luxury, and they are certainly attractive. The novelty Sunshine combines creamy accords of almonds, tart notes of blackcurrant and delicate flowers - jasmine, magnolia, osmanthus. With such a fragrance, you can conquer not only a man, but the whole world - you will definitely feel very confident.

Popular

Price: 30 800 rubles (100 ml)

01 Molecule

Molecule has already become a legendary perfume - girls, if they have not bought the coveted bottle, then dream about it. This fragrance is very difficult to describe, because it is absolutely individual and reveals itself on each person in its own way. Perfumer Geza Schoen created a unique woody-musky flair - many believe that it simply drives men crazy and, most importantly, blends harmoniously with the natural scent of the skin. In short, the bottle is definitely worth the money.

Price: 12 650 rubles (100 ml)

Killing Me Slowly by Kilian

Perfume with an intriguing name "Kill Me Slowly" will appeal to fans of rich, but soft, silky scents. This is a very sensual and intimate flair, which consists of notes of blackcurrant, lychee, Bulgarian rose, iris and Madagascar vanilla. The aroma is complex, rich, but at the same time delicate ... For a romantic date, it's just perfect!

Price: 13,500 rubles (100 ml)

Fleur Narcotique by Ex Nihilo

After reading the name of this fragrance, we were, of course, very intrigued! Fleur Narcotique (can be translated as "narcotic flower") from the young Parisian brand Ex Nihilo will appeal to girls of a daring disposition - you still need to dare to do this! In fact, it really is addictive - such an interesting and enchanting smell is enclosed in a bottle. Let's try to describe in words: the top notes are bergamot, lychee and peach, the heart notes are jasmine, peony and orange blossom, and the base notes are woody notes, oakmoss and musk. In a word, the composition is intricate and intriguing. Narcotic!

Price: 23,000 rubles (100 ml)

Jasmin Angelique by Atelier Cologne

"Angelic Jasmine" is a "green" fragrance that will suit both you and your boyfriend at the same time. And by the way, it is not at all like the sweet jasmine we are used to - the composition is much more complex and interesting. Help Egyptian jasmine notes of figs, galbanum, incense and white amber. It seems to us that eau de toilette is perfect as the main perfume for every day - it will be appropriate even in the morning at the office.

Price: 12,600 rubles (100 ml)

Oud Palao by Diptyque

Rich notes of oud wood are now at the height of fashion! So the perfume brand Diptyque has released its variation on the theme of oud - the Oud Palao fragrance is simply incredible ... Woody, with notes of Bulgarian rose, vanilla, tobacco and patchouli. And, best of all, they, again, can be used with your loved one!

Price: 11 250 rubles (100 ml)

Cannibale by Serge Lutens

Don't let this strange and slightly intimidating name of the fragrance scare you. The famous perfumer Serge Lutens is still an entertainer - he comes up with such names for his masterpieces that you definitely want to try it, if only for the sake of interest. In fact, Cannibale is a very rich woody- oriental fragrance, which will appeal to lovers of exotic and something unusual. Luten himself hints that a woman using this perfume "wants to eat." Agree, no one expects a more stunning effect from perfume!

Price: 7900 rubles (50 ml)

Amber and Roses by Mancera

A great option for the evening was released by the Mancera brand - if you love the scent of a rose, then you will definitely like it. Of course, not everything is so simple. In addition to the amber and rose declared in the name of the perfume, you will hear notes of white musk, Indian jasmine and Sicilian lemon. Like all Mancera fragrances, this one is very intense, so don't overdo it before going out.

Price: 14,400 rubles (100 ml)

Larmes Du Desert by Atelier Des Ors

The Atelier Des Ors brand has just come to Russia, but we have already managed to fall in love with it. The name of the fragrance, which we advise you to take a closer look at, is translated as "Tears of the Desert". It reflects the perfume traditions of the Middle East, which means it will appeal to lovers of spicy, oriental fragrances. Notes: incense, cypress, patchouli, cedar, amber... You definitely won't go unnoticed!

Price: 24,000 rubles (100 ml)

SoOud Ilham

And again fashionable oud notes! This oriental fragrance sounds very rich, and at the same time incredibly feminine. Oud is often associated with woody scents (and even more often with men's perfumery), but in this case, pink pepper, ginger, musk and patchouli create a sweet, festive sound. It seems to us that the fragrance can be more likely attributed to the evening - it will be perfectly combined with a cocktail dress.

Price: 16,500 rubles (100 ml)

In the material :

The art of being original: what is a niche perfume?

The concept of niche perfumery comes from the French "La niche" - in the literal sense of a niche, a cell; figuratively - a certain segment that is exclusively occupied by someone or something. In the Russian language (as far as I understand) this concept (in its figurative representation) entered a long time ago and firmly. “He found his niche in art”, “the product has taken its niche in the market”, etc. - it's all just about our topic.

Niche perfumes are compositions created according to the exclusive formulas of the authors. This is a complete author's creativity, not limited by the scope of the customer, prevailing trends, ingredients used, price limits, etc.

Is the niche exclusive? Undoubtedly! Will you be original in it? Undoubtedly! Is it worth spending a lot of money on such fragrances? Why not, if you have the means and desire? Are you guaranteed to love a niche fragrance? No, no, and another hundred thousand times no! Belonging to a group does not mean unambiguous sympathy. Everything as always - try it! But we will talk about this a little lower.

Niche fragrances - this is the freedom of creativity! This is one of the highest manifestations of perfumery art. This is “this is how I see it” in its olfactory performance. But do you like all the pictures of the world? Isn't there a difference between classical music and the underground? Are ballet and actionist manifestations of modernity the same thing? It's the same with niche perfumes.

Exclusive mono fragrances, for example, dedicated exclusively to rose or peony, or another component - this can be a niche. But “black caviar burned in the wheel of a new car against the background of rotten algae” can also refer to this group.

What is niche?

Classifying niche fragrances is a thankless task, because of their versatility. But still, they highlight the main characteristics that distinguish this group from others. Let's look at them and see if everything here is true:

• Officially, there are no mass advertising campaigns. It is believed that brands spend money on quality ingredients, not on advertising. All this is not entirely true. Indeed, pop stars advertising these fragrances, as a rule, you will not see. However, magazine articles, interviews with perfumers, and similar materials often come out with new releases. Is this not an advertisement?
• Such brands have a full-time perfumer. Yes, in most cases it is. Moreover, perfumers are often the founders of niche brands. Nothing prevents a master from working for many years on mass compositions, and then (sometimes in parallel) opening his own niche line. A striking example is from Jacques Cavallier.

Just the presence of a full-time perfumer cannot be an indicator of a niche - a large number of luxury brands also have full-time perfumers. For example, François Demachy y or Thierry Wasser y .

• Niche fragrances are not sold in major department stores, but only in exclusive boutiques.. The same is not clear. Such brands have their own (often mono-brand) stores (by the way, they are very interesting - consultants there are usually very adequate and know their products inside and out!), but what do you want to do with brands that produce luxury, but present and individual niche collections? Do you think they will open separate stores for such lines? Hardly!

It turns out that all three indicators are quite relative. Like everything in this world. To confuse you even more, I will tell you that some brands manage to find their niche inside another niche :-)

Niche and selective: synonyms or separate groups?

You probably noticed that I have never used the term "selective" or "selective perfumery" until now, and many people call the niche that way. I am correcting myself. Selective and niche perfumery are synonymous! But, as elsewhere, there are individual "wise men" who are ready to make money on terms and confuse us with you.

The essence of the problem is that manufacturers of mass fragrances (the same term, but more on that another time) often use the word “Selective” for marketing purposes (in the sense of: exquisite, selective, original). So they wanted to name their work like that, and nothing is able to stop them.

In order not to get confused, you need to understand: when the phrase “Selective Perfumery” is used in reference books or articles, in most cases they are talking about niche fragrances. However, the word "Selective" on a product's packaging may mean absolutely nothing.

Let's remember the main segments of perfumery (in this context):

Pay attention, I basically do not talk about the quality of goods in these segments. Do not swear right away, but in my opinion, although this is important, it is secondary. Primary - your perceptions and those of your loved ones.

In one of the materials, we have already discussed with you the so-called. " " when the fragrance should:

1. Like you.
2. Do not annoy loved ones.
3. Do not harm colleagues.

Problems begin when this "self-proclaimed elite" begins to see the "gray mass" around, squeezing itself out of the category " ordinary people". The next step, as a rule, is a dismissive attitude towards others. And if their work turns out to be useless to anyone, then the time of “unrecognized geniuses” and “cattle” comes at all.

All these are quite philosophical things, and do not directly relate to niche perfumery (or rather, they relate far not only to it). But we need to pay attention to this for several reasons:

• If such an "elite" finally turned on his own genius, then his creations should be treated with a certain skepticism. This does not mean that they are bad - on the contrary, masterpieces of art are often created by frank psychos - this means that you need to be more careful and conduct the test more carefully.
• Whatever the thirst for creativity, whatever spiritual impulses guide the creators, they also want to eat, sorry for the banality. So the commercial component must be present. That is why their stories about (I exaggerate) “universes created in your imagination by the fragrance I created yesterday, under the moonlight and to the sound of the violin, with which the composition is thoroughly saturated” should not always be believed. Let them smell the "smell of moonlight and violin music" themselves, and you have your own nose - it will tell you everything about the aroma.
• Quite often, niche fragrances are dedicated to a certain area: a resort, a city, a region. This is the author's vision. It is quite normal to want to reproduce the smells associated with a favorite place. Another thing is that your and the author's olfactory opinion on the same geographical object may differ. For example, “the aroma with the smells of New York” (for some reason, this is the city that people like to “smell” the most) can cause the expectation of the smells of Soho, but it will turn out to be Harlem.

Now the main thing is that these "elites" continue to consider themselves as such, if it flatters their pride. Be it a brilliant perfumer, a talented designer or an ordinary consultant - let them be "bohemian"!

But everything they do, create, sell - for you! Without you they are nothing. You are the main link in this chain. Your likes and dislikes should determine what you will smell of today, and not the opinions and talents of the "elite". The main thing is you, and the entire elite is needed only to serve your interests. They are your personal perfumers, your servants, if you will. Know this, but never tell "bohemian" ;-)